One or two of these pleasant spectres I think I have laid. I used one but the other day: a little eyot of dense7, freshwater sand, where I once waded9 deep in butterburrs, delighting to hear the song of the river on both sides, and to tell myself that I was indeed and at last upon an island. Two of my puppets lay there a summer’s day, hearkening to the shearers at work in riverside fields and to the drums of the gray old garrison10 upon the neighbouring hill. And this was, I think, done rightly: the place was rightly peopled — and now belongs not to me but to my puppets — for a time at least. In time, perhaps, the puppets will grow faint; the original memory swim up instant as ever; and I shall once more lie in bed, and see the little sandy isle11 in Allan Water as it is in nature, and the child (that once was me) wading12 there in butterburrs; and wonder at the instancy and virgin13 freshness of that memory; and be pricked14 again, in season and out of season, by the desire to weave it into art.
There is another isle in my collection, the memory of which besieges15 me. I put a whole family there, in one of my tales; and later on, threw upon its shores, and condemned16 to several days of rain and shellfish on its tumbled boulders17, the hero of another. The ink is not yet faded; the sound of the sentences is still in my mind’s ear; and I am under a spell to write of that island again.
I
The little isle of Earraid lies close in to the south-west corner of the Ross of Mull: the sound of Iona on one side, across which you may see the isle and church of Columba; the open sea to the other, where you shall be able to mark, on a clear, surfy day, the breakers running white on many sunken rocks. I first saw it, or first remembered seeing it, framed in the round bull’s-eye of a cabin port, the sea lying smooth along its shores like the waters of a lake, the colourless clear light of the early morning making plain its heathery and rocky hummocks19. There stood upon it, in these days, a single rude house of uncemented stones, approached by a pier20 of wreckwood. It must have been very early, for it was then summer, and in summer, in that latitude21, day scarcely withdraws; but even at that hour the house was making a sweet smoke of peats which came to me over the bay, and the bare-legged daughters of the cotter were wading by the pier. The same day we visited the shores of the isle in the ship’s boats; rowed deep into Fiddler’s Hole, sounding as we went; and having taken stock of all possible accommodation, pitched on the northern inlet as the scene of operations. For it was no accident that had brought the lighthouse steamer to anchor in the Bay of Earraid. Fifteen miles away to seaward, a certain black rock stood environed by the Atlantic rollers, the outpost of the Torran reefs. Here was a tower to be built, and a star lighted, for the conduct of seamen23. But as the rock was small, and hard of access, and far from land, the work would be one of years; and my father was now looking for a shore station, where the stones might be quarried24 and dressed, the men live, and the tender, with some degree of safety, lie at anchor.
I saw Earraid next from the stern thwart25 of an Iona lugger, Sam Bough26 and I sitting there cheek by jowl, with our feet upon our baggage, in a beautiful, clear, northern summer eve. And behold27! there was now a pier of stone, there were rows of sheds, railways, travelling-cranes, a street of cottages, an iron house for the resident engineer, wooden bothies for the men, a stage where the courses of the tower were put together experimentally, and behind the settlement a great gash28 in the hillside where granite29 was quarried. In the bay, the steamer lay at her moorings. All day long there hung about the place the music of chinking tools; and even in the dead of night, the watchman carried his lantern to and fro in the dark settlement and could light the pipe of any midnight muser. It was, above all, strange to see Earraid on the Sunday, when the sound of the tools ceased and there fell a crystal quiet. All about the green compound men would be sauntering in their Sunday’s best, walking with those lax joints30 of the reposing31 toiler33, thoughtfully smoking, talking small, as if in honour of the stillness, or hearkening to the wailing34 of the gulls35. And it was strange to see our Sabbath services, held, as they were, in one of the bothies, with Mr. Brebner reading at a table, and the congregation perched about in the double tier of sleeping bunks36; and to hear the singing of the psalms37, “the chapters,” the inevitable38 Spurgeon’s sermon, and the old, eloquent39 lighthouse prayer.
In fine weather, when by the spy-glass on the hill the sea was observed to run low upon the reef, there would be a sound of preparation in the very early morning; and before the sun had risen from behind Ben More, the tender would steam out of the bay. Over fifteen sea-miles of the great blue Atlantic rollers she ploughed her way, trailing at her tail a brace40 of wallowing stone-lighters41. The open ocean widened upon either board, and the hills of the mainland began to go down on the horizon, before she came to her unhomely destination, and lay-to at last where the rock clapped its black head above the swell42, with the tall iron barrack on its spider legs, and the truncated43 tower, and the cranes waving their arms, and the smoke of the engine-fire rising in the mid-sea. An ugly reef is this of the Dhu Heartach; no pleasant assemblage of shelves, and pools, and creeks44, about which a child might play for a whole summer without weariness, like the Bell Rock or the Skerryvore, but one oval nodule of black-trap, sparsely45 bedabbled with an inconspicuous fucus, and alive in every crevice46 with a dingy47 insect between a slater and a bug48. No other life was there but that of sea-birds, and of the sea itself, that here ran like a mill-race, and growled49 about the outer reef for ever, and ever and again, in the calmest weather, roared and spouted50 on the rock itself. Times were different upon Dhu-Heartach when it blew, and the night fell dark, and the neighbour lights of Skerryvore and Rhu-val were quenched51 in fog, and the men sat prisoned high up in their iron drum, that then resounded52 with the lashing53 of the sprays. Fear sat with them in their sea-beleaguered dwelling54; and the colour changed in anxious faces when some greater billow struck the barrack, and its pillars quivered and sprang under the blow. It was then that the foreman builder, Mr. Goodwillie, whom I see before me still in his rock-habit of undecipherable rags, would get his fiddle22 down and strike up human minstrelsy amid the music of the storm. But it was in sunshine only that I saw Dhu-Heartach; and it was in sunshine, or the yet lovelier summer afterglow, that the steamer would return to Earraid, ploughing an enchanted55 sea; the obedient lighters, relieved of their deck cargo56, riding in her wake more quietly; and the steersman upon each, as she rose on the long swell, standing57 tall and dark against the shining west.
But it was in Earraid itself that I delighted chiefly. The lighthouse settlement scarce encroached beyond its fences; over the top of the first brae the ground was all virgin, the world all shut out, the face of things unchanged by any of man’s doings. Here was no living presence, save for the limpets on the rocks, for some old, gray, rain-beaten ram18 that I might rouse out of a ferny den8 betwixt two boulders, or for the haunting and the piping of the gulls. It was older than man; it was found so by incoming Celts, and seafaring Norsemen, and Columba’s priests. The earthy savour of the bog-plants, the rude disorder58 of the boulders, the inimitable seaside brightness of the air, the brine and the iodine59, the lap of the billows among the weedy reefs, the sudden springing up of a great run of dashing surf along the sea-front of the isle, all that I saw and felt my predecessors60 must have seen and felt with scarce a difference. I steeped myself in open air and in past ages.
“Delightful61 would it be to me to be in uchd Ailiun
On the pinnacle62 of a rock,
That I might often see
The face of the ocean;
That I might hear the song of the wonderful birds,
Source of happiness;
That I might hear the thunder of the crowding waves
Upon the rocks:
At times at work without compulsion —
This would be delightful;
At times plucking dulse from the rocks
At times at fishing.”
So, about the next island of Iona, sang Columba himself twelve hundred years before. And so might I have sung of Earraid.
And all the while I was aware that this life of sea-bathing and sun-burning was for me but a holiday. In that year cannon63 were roaring for days together on French battlefields; and I would sit in my isle (I call it mine, after the use of lovers) and think upon the war, and the loudness of these far-away battles, and the pain of the men’s wounds, and the weariness of their marching. And I would think too of that other war which is as old as mankind, and is indeed the life of man: the unsparing war, the grinding slavery of competition; the toil32 of seventy years, dear-bought bread, precarious64 honour, the perils65 and pitfalls66, and the poor rewards. It was a long look forward; the future summoned me as with trumpet67 calls, it warned me back as with a voice of weeping and beseeching68; and I thrilled and trembled on the brink69 of life, like a childish bather on the beach.
There was another young man on Earraid in these days, and we were much together, bathing, clambering on the boulders, trying to sail a boat and spinning round instead in the oily whirlpools of the roost. But the most part of the time we spoke70 of the great uncharted desert of our futures71; wondering together what should there befall us; hearing with surprise the sound of our own voices in the empty vestibule of youth. As far, and as hard, as it seemed then to look forward to the grave, so far it seems now to look backward upon these emotions; so hard to recall justly that loath72 submission73, as of the sacrificial bull, with which we stooped our necks under the yoke74 of destiny. I met my old companion but the other day; I cannot tell of course what he was thinking; but, upon my part, I was wondering to see us both so much at home, and so composed and sedentary in the world; and how much we had gained, and how much we had lost, to attain75 to that composure; and which had been upon the whole our best estate: when we sat there prating76 sensibly like men of some experience, or when we shared our timorous77 and hopeful counsels in a western islet.
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1 resetting | |
v.重新安放或安置( reset的现在分词 );重拨(测量仪器指针);为(考试、测试等)出一套新题;重新安置,将…恢复原位 | |
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2 attire | |
v.穿衣,装扮[同]array;n.衣着;盛装 | |
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3 manoeuvre | |
n.策略,调动;v.用策略,调动 | |
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4 tint | |
n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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5 impaired | |
adj.受损的;出毛病的;有(身体或智力)缺陷的v.损害,削弱( impair的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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6 substantive | |
adj.表示实在的;本质的、实质性的;独立的;n.实词,实名词;独立存在的实体 | |
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7 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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8 den | |
n.兽穴;秘密地方;安静的小房间,私室 | |
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9 waded | |
(从水、泥等)蹚,走过,跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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10 garrison | |
n.卫戍部队;驻地,卫戍区;vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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11 isle | |
n.小岛,岛 | |
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12 wading | |
(从水、泥等)蹚,走过,跋( wade的现在分词 ) | |
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13 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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14 pricked | |
刺,扎,戳( prick的过去式和过去分词 ); 刺伤; 刺痛; 使剧痛 | |
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15 besieges | |
包围,围困,围攻( besiege的第三人称单数 ) | |
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16 condemned | |
adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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17 boulders | |
n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 );巨砾;(受水或天气侵蚀而成的)巨石;漂砾 | |
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18 ram | |
(random access memory)随机存取存储器 | |
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19 hummocks | |
n.小丘,岗( hummock的名词复数 ) | |
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20 pier | |
n.码头;桥墩,桥柱;[建]窗间壁,支柱 | |
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21 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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22 fiddle | |
n.小提琴;vi.拉提琴;不停拨弄,乱动 | |
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23 seamen | |
n.海员 | |
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24 quarried | |
v.从采石场采得( quarry的过去式和过去分词 );从(书本等中)努力发掘(资料等);在采石场采石 | |
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25 thwart | |
v.阻挠,妨碍,反对;adj.横(断的) | |
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26 bough | |
n.大树枝,主枝 | |
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27 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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28 gash | |
v.深切,划开;n.(深长的)切(伤)口;裂缝 | |
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29 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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30 joints | |
接头( joint的名词复数 ); 关节; 公共场所(尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所) (非正式); 一块烤肉 (英式英语) | |
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31 reposing | |
v.将(手臂等)靠在某人(某物)上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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32 toil | |
vi.辛劳工作,艰难地行动;n.苦工,难事 | |
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33 toiler | |
辛劳者,勤劳者 | |
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34 wailing | |
v.哭叫,哀号( wail的现在分词 );沱 | |
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35 gulls | |
n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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36 bunks | |
n.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位( bunk的名词复数 );空话,废话v.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位( bunk的第三人称单数 );空话,废话 | |
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37 psalms | |
n.赞美诗( psalm的名词复数 );圣诗;圣歌;(中的) | |
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38 inevitable | |
adj.不可避免的,必然发生的 | |
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39 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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40 brace | |
n. 支柱,曲柄,大括号; v. 绷紧,顶住,(为困难或坏事)做准备 | |
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41 lighters | |
n.打火机,点火器( lighter的名词复数 ) | |
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42 swell | |
vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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43 truncated | |
adj.切去顶端的,缩短了的,被删节的v.截面的( truncate的过去式和过去分词 );截头的;缩短了的;截去顶端或末端 | |
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44 creeks | |
n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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45 sparsely | |
adv.稀疏地;稀少地;不足地;贫乏地 | |
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46 crevice | |
n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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47 dingy | |
adj.昏暗的,肮脏的 | |
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48 bug | |
n.虫子;故障;窃听器;vt.纠缠;装窃听器 | |
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49 growled | |
v.(动物)发狺狺声, (雷)作隆隆声( growl的过去式和过去分词 );低声咆哮着说 | |
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50 spouted | |
adj.装有嘴的v.(指液体)喷出( spout的过去式和过去分词 );滔滔不绝地讲;喋喋不休地说;喷水 | |
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51 quenched | |
解(渴)( quench的过去式和过去分词 ); 终止(某事物); (用水)扑灭(火焰等); 将(热物体)放入水中急速冷却 | |
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52 resounded | |
v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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53 lashing | |
n.鞭打;痛斥;大量;许多v.鞭打( lash的现在分词 );煽动;紧系;怒斥 | |
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54 dwelling | |
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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55 enchanted | |
adj. 被施魔法的,陶醉的,入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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56 cargo | |
n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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57 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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58 disorder | |
n.紊乱,混乱;骚动,骚乱;疾病,失调 | |
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59 iodine | |
n.碘,碘酒 | |
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60 predecessors | |
n.前任( predecessor的名词复数 );前辈;(被取代的)原有事物;前身 | |
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61 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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62 pinnacle | |
n.尖塔,尖顶,山峰;(喻)顶峰 | |
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63 cannon | |
n.大炮,火炮;飞机上的机关炮 | |
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64 precarious | |
adj.不安定的,靠不住的;根据不足的 | |
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65 perils | |
极大危险( peril的名词复数 ); 危险的事(或环境) | |
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66 pitfalls | |
(捕猎野兽用的)陷阱( pitfall的名词复数 ); 意想不到的困难,易犯的错误 | |
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67 trumpet | |
n.喇叭,喇叭声;v.吹喇叭,吹嘘 | |
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68 beseeching | |
adj.恳求似的v.恳求,乞求(某事物)( beseech的现在分词 ) | |
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69 brink | |
n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘,边沿 | |
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70 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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71 futures | |
n.期货,期货交易 | |
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72 loath | |
adj.不愿意的;勉强的 | |
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73 submission | |
n.服从,投降;温顺,谦虚;提出 | |
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74 yoke | |
n.轭;支配;v.给...上轭,连接,使成配偶 | |
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75 attain | |
vt.达到,获得,完成 | |
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76 prating | |
v.(古时用语)唠叨,啰唆( prate的现在分词 ) | |
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77 timorous | |
adj.胆怯的,胆小的 | |
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