On the 16th of July, 1799, at break of day, we beheld2 a verdant3 coast, of picturesque4 aspect. The mountains of New Andalusia, half-veiled by mists, bounded the horizon to the south. The city of Cumana and its castle appeared between groups of cocoa-trees. We anchored in the port about nine in the morning, forty-one days after our departure from Corunna; the sick dragged themselves on deck to enjoy the sight of a land which was to put an end to their sufferings. Our eyes were fixed6 on the groups of cocoa-trees which border the river: their trunks, more than sixty feet high, towered over every object in the landscape. The plain was covered with the tufts of Cassia, Caper8, and those arborescent mimosas, which, like the pine of Italy, spread their branches in the form of an umbrella. The pinnated leaves of the palms were conspicuous9 on the azure10 sky, the clearness of which was unsullied by any trace of vapour. The sun was ascending11 rapidly toward the zenith. A dazzling light was spread through the air, along the whitish hills strewed13 with cylindric14 cactuses, and over a sea ever calm, the shores of which were peopled with alcatras,* egrets, and flamingoes. The splendour of the day, the vivid colouring of the vegetable world, the forms of the plants, the varied16 plumage of the birds, everything was stamped with the grand character of nature in the equinoctial regions.
[* A brown pelican17, of the size of a swan. (Pelicanus fuscus, Linn.)]
The city of Cumana, the capital of New Andalusia, is a mile distant from the embarcadero, or the battery of the Boca, where we landed, after having passed the bar of the Manzanares. We had to cross a vast plain, called el Salado, which divides the suburb of the Guayquerias from the sea-coast. The excessive heat of the atmosphere was augmented18 by the reverberation19 of the soil, partly destitute20 of vegetation. The centigrade thermometer, plunged21 into the white sand, rose to 37.7°. In the small pools of salt water it kept at 30.5°, while the heat of the ocean, at its surface, is generally, in the port of Cumana, from 25.2 to 26.3°. The first plant we gathered on the continent of America was the Avicennia tomentosa,8 which in this place scarcely reaches two feet in height. This shrub22, together with the sesuvium, the yellow gomphrena, and the cactus15, cover soil impregnated with muriate of soda23; they belong to that small number of plants which live in society like the heath of Europe, and which in the torrid zone are found only on the seashore, and on the elevated plains of the Andes.* The Avicennia of Cumana is distinguished24 by another peculiarity26 not less remarkable27: it furnishes an instance of a plant common to the shores of South America and the coasts of Malabar.
[* Mangle28 prieto.]
[* On the extreme rarity of the social plants in the tropics, see my Essay on the Geog. of Plants page 19; and a paper by Mr. Brown on the Proteacea, Transactions of the Lin. Soc. volume 10 page 1, page 23, in which that great botanist29 has extended and confirmed by numerous facts my ideas on the association of plants of the same species.]
The Indian pilot led us across his garden, which rather resembled a copse than a piece of cultivated ground. He showed us, as a proof of the fertility of this climate, a silk-cotton tree (Bombax heptaphyllum), the trunk of which, in its fourth year, had reached nearly two feet and a half in diameter. We have observed, on the banks of the Orinoco and the river Magdalena, that the bombax, the carolinea, the ochroma, and other trees of the family of the malvaceae, are of extremely rapid growth. I nevertheless think that there was some exaggeration in the report of the Indian respecting the age of his bombax; for under the temperate30 zone, in the hot and damp lands of North America, between the Mississippi and the Alleghany mountains, the trees do not exceed a foot in diameter, in ten years. Vegetation in those parts is in general but a fifth more speedy than in Europe, even taking as an example the Platanus occidentalis, the tulip tree, and the Cupressus disticha, which reach from nine to fifteen feet in diameter. On the strand32 of Cumana, in the garden of the Guayqueria pilot, we saw for the first time a guama* loaded with flowers, and remarkable for the extreme length and silvery splendour of its numerous stamina33. We crossed the suburb of the Guayqueria Indians, the streets of which are very regular, and formed of small houses, quite new, and of a pleasing appearance. This part of the town had just been rebuilt, for the earthquake had laid Cumana in ruins eighteen months before our arrival. By a wooden bridge, we crossed the river Manzanares, which contains a few bavas, or crocodiles of the smaller species.
[* Inga spuria, which we must not confound with the common inga, Inga vera, Willd. (Mimosa Inga, Linn.). The white stamina, which, to the number of sixty or seventy, are attached to a greenish corolla, have a silky lustre35, and are terminated by a yellow anther. The flower of the guama is eighteen lines long. The common height of this fine tree, which prefers a moist soil, is from eight to ten toises.]
We were conducted by the captain of the Pizarro to the governor of the province, Don Vincente Emparan, to present to him the passports furnished to us by the first Secretary of State at Madrid. He received us with that frankness and unaffected dignity which have at all times characterized the natives of Biscay. Before he was appointed governor of Portobello and Cumana, Don Vincente Emparan had distinguished himself as captain of a vessel37 in the navy. His name recalls to mind one of the most extraordinary and distressing38 events recorded in the history of maritime39 warfare40. At the time of the last rupture41 between Spain and England, two brothers of Senor Emperan, both of whom commanded ships in the Spanish navy, engaged with each other before the port of Cadiz, each supposing that he was attacking an enemy. A fierce battle was kept up during a whole night, and both the vessels42 were sunk almost simultaneously43. A very small part of the crew was saved, and the two brothers had the misfortune to recognize each other a little before they expired.
The governor of Cumana expressed his great satisfaction at the resolution we had taken to remain for some time in New Andalusia, a province which at that period was but little known even by name in Europe, and which in its mountains, and on the banks of its numerous rivers, contains a great number of objects worthy44 of fixing the attention of naturalists45. Senor Emperan showed us cottons dyed with native plants, and fine furniture made exclusively of the wood of the country. He was much interested in everything that related to natural philosophy; and asked, to our great astonishment47, whether we thought, that, under the beautiful sky of the tropics, the atmosphere contained less azote (azotico) than in Spain; or whether the rapidity with which iron oxidates in those climates, were only the effect of greater humidity as indicated by the air hygrometer. The name of his native country pronounced on a distant shore would not have been more agreeable to the ear of a traveller, than those words azote, oxide48 of iron, and hygrometer, were to ours. Senor Emparan was a lover of science, and the public marks of consideration which he gave us during a long abode in his government, contributed greatly to procure49 us a favourable50 welcome in every part of South America.
We hired a spacious51 house, the situation of which was favourable for astronomical52 observations. We enjoyed an agreeable coolness when the breeze arose; the windows were without glass, and even without those paper panes53 which are often substituted for glass at Cumana. The whole of the passengers of the Pizarro left the vessel, but the recovery of those who had been attacked by the fever was very slow. We saw some who, a month after, notwithstanding the care bestowed55 on them by their countrymen, were still extremely weak and reduced. Hospitality, in the Spanish colonies, is such, that a European who arrives, without recommendation or pecuniary56 means, is almost sure of finding assistance, if he land in any port on account of sickness. The Catalonians, the Galicians, and the Biscayans, have the most frequent intercourse57 with America. They there form as it were three distinct corporations, which exercise a remarkable influence over the morals, the industry, and commerce of the colonies. The poorest inhabitant of Siges or Vigo is sure of being received into the house of a Catalonian or Galician pulpero,* whether he land in Chile or the Philippine Islands.
[* A retail58 dealer59.]
Among the sick who landed at Cumana was a negro, who fell into a state of insanity60 a few days after our arrival; he died in that deplorable condition, though his master, almost seventy years old, who had left Europe to settle at San Blas, at the entrance of the gulf61 of California, had attended him with the greatest care. I relate this fact as affording evidence that men born under the torrid zone, after having dwelt in temperate climates, sometimes feel the pernicious effects of the heat of the tropics. The negro was a young man, eighteen years of age, very robust62, and born on the coast of Guinea; an abode of some years on the high plain of Castile, had imparted to his organization that kind of irritability63 which renders the miasma64 of the torrid zone so dangerous to the inhabitants of the countries of the north.
The site on which Cumana is built is part of a tract65 of ground, very remarkable in a geological point of view. The chain of the calcareous Alps of the Brigantine and the Tataraqual stretches east and west from the summit of the Imposible to the port of Mochima and to Campanario. The sea, in times far remote, appears to have divided this chain from the rocky coasts of Araya and Maniquarez. The vast gulf of Cariaco has been caused by an irruption of the sea; and no doubt can be entertained but that the waters once covered, on the southern bank, the whole tract of land impregnated with muriate of soda, through which flows the Manzanares. The slow retreat of the waters has turned into dry ground this extensive plain, in which rises a group of small hills, composed of gypsum and calcareous breccias of very recent formation. The city of Cumana is backed by this group, which was formerly66 an island of the gulf of Cariaco. That part of the plain which is north of the city, is called Plaga Chica, or the Little Plain, and extends eastwards67 as far as Punta Delgada, where a narrow valley, covered with yellow gomphrena, still marks the point of the ancient outlet68 of the waters.
The hill of calcareous breccias, which we have just mentioned as having once been an island in the ancient gulf, is covered with a thick forest of cylindric cactus and opuntia. Some of these trees, thirty or forty feet high, are covered with lichens69, and are divided into several branches in the form of candelabra. Near Maniquarez, at Punta Araya, we measured a cactus,* the trunk of which was four feet nine inches in circumference70. A European acquainted only with the opuntia in our hot-houses is surprised to see the wood of this plant become so hard from age, that it resists for centuries both air and moisture: the Indians of Cumana therefore employ it in preference to any other for oars71 and door-posts. Cumana, Coro, the island of Margareta, and Curassao, are the parts of South America that abound72 most in plants of the nopal family. There only, a botanist, after a long residence, could compose a monography of the genus cactus, the species of which vary not only in their flowers and fruits, but also in the form of their articulated stems, the number of costae, and the disposition73 of the thorns. We shall see hereafter how these plants, which characterize a warm and singularly dry climate, like that of Egypt and California, gradually disappear in proportion as we remove from the coasts, and penetrate74 into the inland country.
[* Tuna macho. We distinguish in the wood of the cactus the medullary prolongations, as M. Desfontaines has already observed.]
The groups of columnar cactus and opuntia produce the same effect in the arid75 lands of equinoctial America as the junceae and the hydrocharides in the marshes76 of our northern climes. Places in which the larger species of the strong cactus are collected in groups are considered as almost impenetrable. These places are called Tunales; and they are impervious77 not only to the native, who goes naked to the waist, but are formidable even to those who are fully78 clothed. In our solitary79 rambles80 we sometimes endeavoured to penetrate into the Tunal that crowns the summit of the castle hill, a part of which is crossed by a pathway, where we could have studied, amidst thousands of specimens81, the organization of this singular plant. Sometimes night suddenly overtook us, for there is scarcely any twilight82 in this climate; and we then found ourselves dangerously situated83, as the Cascabel, or rattle-snake, the Coral, and other vipers84 armed with poisonous fangs86, frequent these scorched87 and arid haunts, to deposit their eggs in the sand.
The castle of San Antonio is built at the western extremity88 of the hill, but not on the most elevated point, being commanded on the east by an unfortified summit. The Tunal is considered both here and everywhere in the Spanish colonies as a very important means of military defence; and when earthen works are raised, the engineers are eager to propagate the thorny90 opuntia, and promote its growth, as they are careful to keep crocodiles in the ditches of fortified89 places. In regions where organized nature is so powerful and active, man summons as auxiliaries91 in his defence the carnivorous reptile92, and the plant with its formidable armour93 of thorns.
The castle is only thirty toises above the level of the water in the gulf of Cariaco. Standing54 on a naked and calcareous hill, it commands the town, and has a very picturesque effect when viewed from a vessel entering the port. It forms a bright object against the dark curtains of those mountains which raise their summits to the clouds, and of which the vaporous and bluish tint95 blends with the azure sky. On descending97 from Fort San Antonio to the south-west, we find on the slope of the same rock the ruins of the old castle of Santa Maria. This site is delightful98 to those who wish to enjoy at the approach of sunset the freshness of the breeze and the view of the gulf. The lofty summits of the island of Margareta are seen above the rocky coast of the isthmus99 of Araya, and towards the west the small islands of Caracas, Picuita, and Boracha, recall to mind the catastrophes100 that have overwhelmed the coasts of Terra Firma. These islets resemble fortifications, and from the effect of the mirage102 (while the inferior strata103 of the air, the ocean, and the soil, are unequally heated by the sun), their points appear raised like the extremity of the great promontories104 of the coast. It is pleasing, during the day, to observe these inconstant phenomena105; we see, as night approaches, these stony106 masses which had been suspended in the air, settle down on their bases; and the luminary107, whose presence vivifies organic nature, seems by the variable inflection of its rays to impress motion on the stable rock, and give an undulating movement to plains covered with arid sands.*
[* The real cause of the mirage, or the extraordinary refraction which the rays undergo when strata of air of different densities108 lie over each other, was guessed at by Hooke. — See his Posthumous109 Works page 472.]
The town of Cumana, properly so called, occupies the ground lying between the castle of San Antonio and the small rivers of Manzanares and Santa Catalina. The Delta110, formed by the bifurcation of the first of these rivers, is a fertile plain covered with Mammees, Sapotas (achras), plantains, and other plants cultivated in the gardens or charas of the Indians. The town has no remarkable edifice111, and the frequency of earthquakes forbids such embellishments. It is true, that strong shocks occur less frequently in a given time at Cumana than at Quito, where we nevertheless find sumptuous112 and very lofty churches. But the earthquakes of Quito are violent only in appearance, and, from the peculiar25 nature of the motion and of the ground, no edifice there is overthrown113. At Cumana, as well as at Lima, and in several cities situated far from the mouths of burning volcanoes, it happens that the series of slight shocks is interrupted after a long course of years by great catastrophes, resembling the effects of the explosion of a mine. We shall have occasion to return to this phenomenon, for the explanation of which so many vain theories have been imagined, and which have been classified according to perpendicular114 and horizontal movements, shock, and oscillation.*
[* This classification dates from the time of Posidonius. It is the successio and inclinatio of Seneca; but the ancients had already judiciously115 remarked, that the nature of these shocks is too variable to permit any subjection to these imaginary laws.]
The suburbs of Cumana are almost as populous116 as the ancient town. They are three in number:— Serritos, on the road to the Plaga Chicha, where we meet with some fine tamarind trees; St. Francis, towards the south-east; and the great suburb of the Guayquerias, or Guayguerias. The name of this tribe of Indians was quite unknown before the conquest. The natives who bear that name formerly belonged to the nation of the Guaraounos, of which we find remains117 only in the swampy118 lands of the branches of the Orinoco. Old men have assured me that the language of their ancestors was a dialect of the Guaraouno; but that for a century past no native of that tribe at Cumana, or in the island of Margareta, has spoken any other language than Castilian.
The denomination119 Guayqueria, like the words Peru and Peruvian, owes its origin to a mere120 mistake. The companions of Christopher Columbus, coasting along the island of Margareta, the northern coast of which is still inhabited by the noblest portion of the Guayqueria nation,* encountered a few natives who were harpooning121 fish by throwing a pole tied to a cord, and terminating in an extremely sharp point. They asked them in the Haiti language their name; and the Indians, thinking that the question of the strangers related to their harpoons122, which were formed of the hard and heavy wood of the Macana palm, answered guaike, guaike, which signifies pointed36 pole. A striking difference at present exists between the Guayquerias, a civilized123 tribe of skilled fishermen, and those savage124 Guaraounos of the Orinoco, who suspend their habitations on the trunks of the Moriche palm. The population of Cumana has been singularly exaggerated, but according to the most authentic125 registers it does not exceed 16,000 souls.
[* The Guayquerias of La Banda del Norte consider themselves as the most noble race, because they think they are less mixed with the Chayma Indian, and other copper-coloured races. They are distinguished from the Guayquerias of the continent by their manner of pronouncing the Spanish language, which they speak almost without separating their teeth. They show with pride to Europeans the Punta de la Galera, or Galley’s Point, (so called on account of the vessel of Columbus having anchored there), and the port of Manzanillo, where they first swore to the whites in 1498, that friendship which they have never betrayed, and which has obtained for them, in court phraseology, the title of fieles, loyal. — See above.]
Probably the Indian suburb will by degrees extend as far as the Embarcadero; the plain, which is not yet covered with houses or huts, being more than 340 toises in length. The heat is somewhat less oppressive on the side near the seashore, than in the old town, where the reverberation of the calcareous soil, and the proximity126 of the mountain of San Antonio, raise the temperature to an excessive degree. In the suburb of the Guayquerias, the sea breezes have free access; the soil is clayey, and, for that reason, it is thought to be less exposed to violent shocks of earthquake, than the houses at the foot of the rocks and hills on the right bank of the Manzanares.
The shore near the mouth of the small river Santa Catalina is bordered with mangrove127 trees,* but these mangroves are not sufficiently129 spread to diminish the salubrity of the air of Cumana. The soil of the plain is in part destitute of vegetation, in part covered with tufts of Sesuvium portulacastrum, Gomphrena flava, G. myrtifolia, Talinum cuspidatum, T. cumanense, and Portulaca lanuginosa. Among these herbaceous plants we find at intervals130 the Avicennia tomentosa, the Scoparia dulcis, a frutescent mimosa with very irritable131 leaves,* and particularly cassias, the number of which is so great in South America, that we collected, in our travels, more than thirty new species.
[* Rhizophora mangle. M. Bonpland found on the Plaga Chica the Allionia incarnata, in the same place where the unfortunate Loefling had discovered this new genus of Nyctagineae.]
[* The Spaniards designate by the name of dormideras (sleeping plants), the small number of mimosas with irritable leaves. We have increased this number by three species previously132 unknown to botanists133, namely, the Mimosa humilis of Cumana, the M. pellita of the savannahs of Calabozo, and the M. dormiens of the banks of the Apure.]
On leaving the Indian suburb, and ascending the river southward, we found a grove128 of cactus, a delightful spot, shaded by tamarinds, brazilettos, bombax, and other plants, remarkable for their leaves and flowers. The soil here is rich in pasturage, and dairy-houses built with reeds, are separated from each other by clumps134 of trees. The milk remains fresh, when kept, not in the calabashes* of very thick ligneous135 fibres, but in porous94 earthen vessels from Maniquarez. A prejudice prevalent in northern countries had long led me to believe, that cows, under the torrid zone, did not yield rich milk; but my abode at Cumana, and especially an excursion through the vast plains of Calabozo, covered with grasses, and herbaceous sensitive plants, convinced me that the ruminating136 animals of Europe become perfectly137 habituated to the hottest climates, provided they find water and good nourishment138. Milk is excellent in the provinces of New Andalusia, Barcelona, and Venezuela; and butter is better in the plains of the equinoctial zone, than on the ridge34 of the Andes, where the Alpine139 plants, enjoying in no season a sufficiently high temperature, are less aromatic140 than on the Pyrenees, on the mountains of Estremadura, or of Greece. As the inhabitants of Cumana prefer the coolness of the sea breeze to the sight of vegetation, their favourite walk is the open shore. The Spaniards, who in general have no great predilection142 for trees, or for the warbling of birds, have transported their tastes and their habits into the colonies. In Terra Firma, Mexico, and Peru, it is rare to see a native plant a tree, merely with the view of procuring143 shade; and if we except the environs of the great capitals, walks bordered with trees are almost unknown in those countries. The arid plain of Cumana exhibits after violent showers an extraordinary phenomenon. The earth, when drenched144 with rain, and heated again by the rays of the sun, emits that musky odour which in the torrid zone, is common to animals of very different classes, namely: to the jaguar145, the small species of tiger cat, the cabiai or thick-nosed tapir,* the galinazo vulture,* the crocodile, the viper85, and the rattlesnake. The gaseous146 emanations, which are the vehicles of this aroma141, seem to be evolved in proportion only as the mould, containing the spoils of an innumerable quantity of reptiles147, worms, and insects, begins to be impregnated with water. I have seen Indian children, of the tribe of the Chaymas, draw out from the earth and eat millipedes or scolopendras* eighteen inches long, and seven lines broad. Whenever the soil is turned up, we are struck with the mass of organic substances, which by turns are developed, transformed, and decomposed148. Nature in these climates appears more active, more fruitful, we may even say more prodigal149, of life.
[* These calabashes are made from the fruit of the Crescentia cujete.]
[* Cavia capybara, Linn.; chiguire.]
[* Vultur aura, Linn., Zamuro, or Galinazo: the Brazilian vulture of Buffon. I cannot reconcile myself to the adoption150 of names, which designate, as belonging to a single country, animals common to a whole continent.]
[* Scolopendras are very common behind the castle of San Antonio, on the summit of the hill.]
On this shore, and near the dairies just mentioned, we enjoy, especially at sunrise, a very beautiful prospect151 over an elevated group of calcareous mountains. As this group subtends an angle of three degrees only at the house where we dwelt, it long served me to compare the variations of the terrestrial refraction with the meteorological phenomena. Storms are formed in the centre of this Cordillera; and we see from afar thick clouds resolve into abundant rains, while during seven or eight months not a drop of water falls at Cumana. The Brigantine, which is the highest part of this chain, raises itself in a very picturesque manner behind Brito and Tataraqual. It takes its name from the form of a very deep valley on the northern declivity152, which resembles the interior of a ship. The summit of this mountain is almost bare of vegetation, and is flat like that of Mowna Roa, in the Sandwich Islands. It is a perpendicular wall, or, to use a more expressive153 term of the Spanish navigators, a table (mesa). This peculiar form, and the symmetrical arrangement of a few cones154 which surround the Brigantine, made me at first think that this group, which is wholly calcareous, contained rocks of basaltic or trappean formation.
The governor of Cumana sent, in 1797, a band of determined155 men to explore this entirely156 desert country, and to open a direct road to New Barcelona, by the summit of the Mesa. It was reasonably expected that this way would be shorter, and less dangerous to the health of travellers, than the route taken by the couriers along the coasts; but every attempt to cross the chain of the mountains of the Brigantine was fruitless. In this part of America, as in Australia* to the west of Sydney, it is not so much the height of the mountain chains, as the form of the rocks, that presents obstacles difficult to surmount157.
[* The Blue Mountains of Australia, and those of Carmarthen and Lansdowne, are not visible, in clear weather, beyond fifty miles. — Peron, Voyage aux Terres Australes page 389. Supposing the angle of altitude half a degree, the absolute height of these mountains would be about 620 toises.]
The longitudinal valley formed by the lofty mountains of the interior and the southern declivity of the Cerro de San Antonio, is intersected by the Rio Manzanares. This plain, the only thoroughly158 wooded part in the environs of Cumana, is called the Plain of the Charas,* on account of the numerous plantations159 which the inhabitants have begun, for some years past, along the river. A narrow path leads from the hill of San Francisco across the forest to the hospital of the Capuchins, a very agreeable country-house, which the Aragonese monks160 have built as a retreat for old infirm missionaries161, who can no longer fulfil the duties of their ministry162. As we advance to the west, the trees of the forest become more vigorous, and we meet with a few monkeys,* which, however, are very rare in the environs of Cumana. At the foot of the capparis, the bauhinia, and the zygophyllum with flowers of a golden yellow, there extends a carpet of Bromelia,* akin31 to the B. karatas, which from the odour and coolness of its foliage163 attracts the rattlesnake.
[* Chacra, by corruption164 chara, signifies a hut or cottage surrounded by a garden. The word ipure has the same signification.]
[* The common machi, or weeping monkey.]
[* Chihuchihue, of the family of the ananas.]
The waters of the Manzanares are very limpid165 in quality, and this river has no resemblance to the Manzanares of Madrid, which appears the more magnificent in contrast with the fine bridge by which it is crossed. It takes its source, like all the rivers of New Andalusia, in the savannahs (llanos) known by the names of the plateaux of Jonoro, Amana, and Guanipa,* and it receives, near the Indian village of San Fernando, the waters of the Rio Juanillo. It has been several times proposed to the government, but without success, to construct a dyke166 at the first ipure, in order to form artificial irrigations in the plain of Charas; for, notwithstanding its apparent sterility167, the soil is extremely productive, wherever humidity is combined with the heat of the climate. The cultivators were gradually to refund168 the money advanced for the construction of the sluices169. Meanwhile, pumps worked by mules170, and other hydraulic171 but imperfect machines, have been erected172, to serve till this project is carried into execution.
[* These three eminences173 bear the names of mesas, tables. An immense plain has an almost imperceptible rise from both sides to the middle, without any appearance of mountains or hills.]
The banks of the Manzanares are very pleasant, and are shaded by mimosas, erythrinas, ceibas, and other trees of gigantic growth. A river, the temperature of which, in the season of the floods, descends175 as low as twenty-two degrees, when the air is at thirty and thirty-three degrees, is an inestimable benefit in a country where the heat is excessive during the whole year, and where it is so agreeable to bathe several times in the day. The children pass a considerable part of their lives in the water; all the inhabitants, even the women of the most opulent families, know how to swim; and in a country where man is so near the state of nature, one of the first questions asked on meeting in the morning is, whether the water is cooler than it was on the preceding evening. One of the modes of bathing is curious. We every evening visited a family, in the suburb of the Guayquerias. In a fine moonlight night, chairs were placed in the water; the men and women were lightly clothed, as in some baths of the north of Europe; and the family and strangers, assembled in the river, passed some hours in smoking cigars, and in talking, according to the custom of the country, of the extreme dryness of the season, of the abundant rains in the neighbouring districts, and particularly of the extravagancies of which the ladies of Cumana accuse those of Caracas and the Havannah. The company were under no apprehensions176 from the bavas, or small crocodiles, which are now extremely scarce, and which approach men without attacking them. These animals are three or four feet long. We never met with them in the Manzanares, but with a great number of dolphins (toninas), which sometimes ascend12 the river in the night, and frighten the bathers by spouting177 water.
The port of Cumana is a roadstead capable of receiving the fleets of Europe. The whole of the Gulf of Cariaco, which is about 35 miles long and 48 broad, affords excellent anchorage. The Pacific is not more calm on the shores of Peru, than the Caribbean Sea from Porto-cabello, and especially from Cape7 Codera to the point of Paria. The hurricanes of the West Indies are never felt in these regions. The only danger in the port of Cumana is a shoal, called Morro Roxo. There are from one to three fathoms178 water on this shoal, while just beyond its edges there are eighteen, thirty, and even thirty-eight. The remains of an old battery, situated north-north-east of the castle of San Antonio, and very near it, serve as a mark to avoid the bank of Morro Roxo.
The city lies at the foot of a hill destitute of verdure, and is commanded by a castle. No steeple or dome179 attracts from afar the eye of the traveller, but only a few trunks of tamarind, cocoa, and date trees, which rise above the houses, the roofs of which are flat. The surrounding plains, especially those on the coasts, wear a melancholy180, dusty, and arid appearance, while a fresh and luxuriant vegetation marks from afar the windings181 of the river, which separates the city from the suburbs; the population of European and mixed race from the copper-coloured natives. The hill of fort San Antonio, solitary, white, and bare, reflects a great mass of light, and of radiant heat: it is composed of breccia, the strata of which contain numerous fossils. In the distance, towards the south, stretches a vast and gloomy curtain of mountains. These are the high calcareous Alps of New Andalusia, surmounted182 by sandstone, and other more recent formations. Majestic183 forests cover this Cordillera of the interior, and they are joined by a woody vale to the open clayey lands and salt marshes of the environs of Cumana. A few birds of considerable size contribute to give a peculiar character to these countries. On the seashore, and in the gulf, we find flocks of fishing herons, and alcatras of a very unwieldy form, which swim, like the swan, raising their wings. Nearer the habitation of man, thousands of galinazo vultures, the jackals of the winged tribe, are ever busy in disinterring the carcases of animals.* A gulf, containing hot and submarine springs, divides the secondary from the primary and schistose rocks of the peninsula of Araya. Each of these coasts is washed by a tranquil185 sea, of azure tint, and always gently agitated186 by a breeze from one quarter. A bright clear sky, with a few light clouds at sunset, reposes187 on the ocean, on the treeless peninsula, and on the plains of Cumana, while we see the storms accumulate and descend96 in fertile showers among the inland mountains. Thus on these coasts, as well as at the foot of the Andes, the earth and the sky present the extremes of clear weather and fogs, of drought and torrents188 of rain, of absolute nudity and never-ceasing verdure.
[* Buffon Hist. Nat. des Oiseaux tome 1 page 114.]
The analogies which we have just indicated, between the sea-coasts of New Andalusia and those of Peru, extend also to the recurrence190 of earthquakes, and the limits which nature seems to have prescribed to these phenomena. We have ourselves felt very violent shocks at Cumana; and we learned on the spot, the most minute circumstances that accompanied the great catastrophe101 of the 14th December, 1797.
It is a very generally received opinion on the coasts of Cumana, and in the island of Margareta, that the gulf of Cariaco owes its existence to a rent of the continent attended by an irruption of the sea. The remembrance of that great event was preserved among the Indians to the end of the fifteenth century; and it is related that, at the time of the third voyage of Christopher Columbus, the natives mentioned it as of very recent date. In 1530, the inhabitants were alarmed by new shocks on the coasts of Paria and Cumana. The land was inundated191 by the sea, and the small fort, built by James Castellon at New Toledo,* was entirely destroyed. At the same time an enormous opening was formed in the mountains of Cariaco, on the shores of the gulf bearing that name, when a great body of salt-water, mixed with asphaltum, issued from the micaceous192 schist. Earthquakes were very frequent about the end of the sixteenth century; and, according to the traditions preserved at Cumana, the sea often inundated the shores, rising from fifteen to twenty fathoms.
[* This was the first name given to the city of Cumana — Girolamo Benzoni Hist. del Mondo Nuovo pages 3, 31, and 33. James Castellon arrived at St. Domingo in 1521, after the appearance of the celebrated193 Bartholomew de las Casas in these countries. On attentively194 reading the narratives195 of Benzoni and Caulin, we find that the fort of Castellon was built near the mouth of the Manzanares (alla ripa del fiume de Cumana); and not, as some modern travellers have asserted, on the mountain where now stands the castle of San Antonio.]
As no record exists at Cumana, and its archives, owing to the continual devastations of the termites196, or white ants, contain no document that goes back farther than a hundred and fifty years, we are unacquainted with the precise dates of the ancient earthquakes. We only know, that, in times nearer our own, the year 1776 was at once the most fatal to the colonists197, and the most remarkable for the physical history of the country. The city of Cumana was entirely destroyed, the houses were overturned in the space of a few minutes, and the shocks were hourly repeated during fourteen months. In several parts of the province the earth opened, and threw out sulphureous waters. These irruptions were very frequent in a plain extending towards Casanay, two leagues east of the town of Cariaco, and known by the name of the hollow ground (tierra hueca), because it appears entirely undermined by thermal198 springs. During the years 1766 and 1767, the inhabitants of Cumana encamped in their streets; and they began to rebuild their houses only when the earthquakes recurred199 once a month. What was felt at Quito, immediately after the great catastrophe of February 1797, took place on these coasts. While the ground was in a state of continual oscillation, the atmosphere seemed to dissolve itself into water.
Tradition states that in the earthquake of 1766, as well as in another remarkable one in 1794, the shocks were mere horizontal oscillations; it was only on the disastrous200 14th of December, 1797, that for the first time at Cumana the motion was felt by an upheaving of the ground. More than four-fifths of the city were then entirely destroyed; and the shock, attended by a very loud subterraneous noise, resembled, as at Riobamba, the explosion of a mine at a great depth. Happily the most violent shock was preceded by a slight undulating motion, so that most of the inhabitants were enabled to escape into the streets, and a small number only perished of those who had assembled in the churches. It is a generally received opinion at Cumana, that the most destructive earthquakes are announced by very feeble oscillations, and by a hollow sound, which does not escape the observation of persons habituated to this kind of phenomenon. In those fatal moments the cries of ‘misericordia! tembla! tembla!’* are everywhere heard; and it rarely happens that a false alarm is given by a native. Those who are most apprehensive201 attentively observe the motions of dogs, goats, and swine. The last-mentioned animals, endowed with delicate olfactory202 nerves, and accustomed to turn up the earth, give warning of approaching danger by their restlessness and their cries. We shall not attempt to decide, whether, being nearer the surface of the ground, they are the first to hear the subterraneous noise; or whether their organs receive the impression of some gaseous emanation which issues from the earth. We cannot deny the possibility of this latter cause. During my abode at Peru, a fact was observed in the inland country, which has an analogy with this kind of phenomenon, and which is not unfrequent. At the end of violent earthquakes, the herbs that cover the savannahs of Tucuman acquired noxious203 properties; an epidemic204 disorder205 broke out among the cattle, and a great number of them appeared stupified or suffocated206 by the deleterious vapours exhaled207 from the ground.
[* “Mercy! the earthquake! the earthquake!”— See Tschudi’s Travels in Peru page 170.]
At Cumana, half an hour before the catastrophe of the 14th of December, 1797, a strong smell of sulphur was perceived near the hill of the convent of San Francisco; and on the same spot the subterraneous noise, which seemed to proceed from south-east to north-west, was loudest. At the same time flames appeared on the banks of the Manzanares, near the hospital of the Capuchins, and in the gulf of Cariaco, near Mariguitar. This last phenomenon, so extraordinary in a country not volcanic208, is pretty frequent in the Alpine calcareous mountains near Cumanacoa, in the valley of Bordones, in the island of Margareta, and amidst the Llanos or savannahs of New Andalusia. In these savannahs, flakes209 of fire rising to a considerable height, are seen for hours together in the dryest places; and it is asserted, that, on examining the ground no crevice210 is perceptible. This fire, which resembles the springs of hydrogen, or Salse, of Modena, or what is called the will-o’-the-wisp of our marshes, does not burn the grass; because, no doubt, the column of gas, which develops itself, is mixed with azote and carbonic acid, and does not burn at its basis. The people, although less superstitious211 here than in Spain, call these reddish flames by the singular name of ‘the soul of the tyrant212 Aguirre;’ imagining that the spectre of Lopez Aguirre, harassed213 by remorse214, wanders over these countries sullied by his crimes.*
[* When at Cumana, or in the island of Margareta, the people pronounce the words el tirano (the tyrant), it is always to denote the hated Lopez d’Aguirre, who, after having taken part, in 1560, in the revolt of Fernando de Guzman against Pedro de Ursua, governor of the Omeguas and Dorado, voluntarily took the title of traidor, or traitor215. He descended216 the river Amazon with his band, and reached by a communication of the rivers of Guyana the island of Margareta. The port of Paraguache still bears, in this island, the name of the Tyrant’s Port.]
The great earthquake of 1797 produced some changes in the configuration217 of the shoal of Morro Roxo, towards the mouth of the Rio Bordones. Similar swellings were observed at the time of the total destruction of Cumana, in 1766. At that period, the Punta Delgado, on the southern coast of the gulf of Cariaco, became perceptibly enlarged; and in the Rio Guarapiche, near the village of Maturin, a shoal was formed, no doubt by the action of the elastic218 fluids, which displaced and raised up the bed of the river.
In order to follow a plan conformable to the end we proposed in this work, we shall endeavour to generalize our ideas, and to comprehend in one point of view everything that relates to these phenomena, so terrific, and so difficult to explain. If it be the duty of the men of science who visit the Alps of Switzerland, or the coasts of Lapland, to extend our knowledge respecting the glaciers219 and the aurora220 borealis, it may be expected that a traveller who has journeyed through Spanish America, should have chiefly fixed his attention on volcanoes and earthquakes. Each part of the globe is an object of particular study; and when we cannot hope to penetrate the causes of natural phenomena, we ought at least to endeavour to discover their laws, and distinguish, by the comparison of numerous facts, that which is permanent and uniform from that which is variable and accidental.
The great earthquakes, which interrupt the long series of slight shocks, appear to have no regular periods at Cumana. They have taken place at intervals of eighty, a hundred, and sometimes less than thirty years; while on the coasts of Peru, for instance at Lima, a certain regularity221 has marked the periods of the total destruction of the city. The belief of the inhabitants in the existence of this uniformity has a happy influence on public tranquillity222, and the encouragement of industry. It is generally admitted, that it requires a sufficiently long space of time for the same causes to act with the same energy; but this reasoning is just only inasmuch as the shocks are considered as a local phenomenon; and a particular focus, under each point of the globe exposed to those great catastrophes, is admitted. Whenever new edifices223 are raised on the ruins of the old, we hear from those who refuse to build, that the destruction of Lisbon on the first day of November, 1755, was soon followed by a second, and not less fatal convulsion, on the 31st of March, 1761.
It is a very ancient opinion,* and one that is commonly received at Cumana, Acapulco, and Lima, that a perceptible connection exists between earthquakes and the state of the atmosphere that precedes those phenomena. But from the great number of earthquakes which I have witnessed to the north and south of the equator; on the continent, and on the seas; on the coasts, and at 2500 toises height; it appears to me that the oscillations are generally very independent of the previous state of the atmosphere. This opinion is entertained by a number of intelligent residents of the Spanish colonies, whose experience extends, if not over a greater space of the globe, at least over a greater number of years, than mine. On the contrary, in parts of Europe where earthquakes are rare compared to America, scientific observers are inclined to admit an intimate connection between the undulations of the ground, and certain meteors, which appear simultaneously with them. In Italy for instance, the sirocco and earthquakes are suspected to have some connection; and in London, the frequency of falling-stars, and those southern lights which have since been often observed by Mr. Dalton, were considered as the forerunners224 of those shocks which were felt from 1748 to 1756.
[* Aristotle de Meteor. lib. 2 (ed. Duval, tome 1 page 798). Seneca Nat. Quaest. lib. 6 c. 12.]
On days when the earth is shaken by violent shocks, the regularity of the horary variations of the barometer225 is not disturbed within the tropics. I had opportunities of verifying this observation at Cumana, at Lima, and at Riobamba; and it is the more worthy of attention, as at St. Domingo, (in the town of Cape Francois,) it is asserted, that a water-barometer sank two inches and a half immediately before the earthquake of 1770. It is also related, that, at the time of the destruction of Oran, a druggist fled with his family, because, observing accidentally, a few minutes before the earthquake, the height of the mercury in his barometer, he perceived that the column sank in an extraordinary manner. I know not whether we can give credit to this story; but as it is nearly impossible to examine the variations of the weight of the atmosphere during the shocks, we must be satisfied with observing the barometer before or after these phenomena have taken place.
We can scarcely doubt, that the earth, when opened and agitated by shocks, spreads occasionally gaseous emanations through the atmosphere, in places remote from the mouths of volcanoes not extinct. At Cumana, it has already been observed that flames and vapours mixed with sulphurous acid spring up from the most arid soil. In other parts of the same province, the earth ejects water and petroleum226. At Riobamba, a muddy and inflammable mass, called moya, issues from crevices227 that close again, and accumulates into elevated hills. At about seven leagues from Lisbon, near Colares, during the terrible earthquake of the 1st of November, 1755, flames and a column of thick smoke were seen to issue from the flanks of the rocks of Alvidras, and, according to some witnesses, from the bosom228 of the sea.
Elastic fluids thrown into the atmosphere may act locally on the barometer, not by their mass, which is very small, compared to the mass of the atmosphere, but because, at the moment of great explosions, an ascending current is probably formed, which diminishes the pressure of the air. I am inclined to think that in the majority of earthquakes nothing escapes from the agitated earth; and that, when gaseous emanations and vapours are observed, they oftener accompany or follow, than precede the shocks. This circumstance would seem to explain the mysterious influence of earthquakes in equinoctial America, on the climate, and on the order of the dry and rainy seasons. If the earth generally act on the air only at the moment of the shocks, we can conceive why a sensible meteorological change so rarely precedes those great revolutions of nature.
The hypothesis according to which, in the earthquakes of Cumana, elastic fluids tend to escape from the surface of the soil, seems confirmed by the great noise which is heard during the shocks at the borders of the wells in the plain of Charas. Water and sand are sometimes thrown out twenty feet high. Similar phenomena were observed in ancient times by the inhabitants of those parts of Greece and Asia Minor229 abounding230 with caverns231, crevices, and subterraneous rivers. Nature, in her uniform progress, everywhere suggests the same ideas of the causes of earthquakes, and the means by which man, forgetting the measure of his strength, pretends to diminish the effect of the subterraneous explosions. What a great Roman naturalist46 has said of the utility of wells and caverns* is repeated in the New World by the most ignorant Indians of Quito, when they show travellers the guaicos, or crevices of Pichincha.
[* “In puteis est remedium, quale et crebri specus praebent: conceptum enim spiritum exhalant: quod in certis notatur oppidis, quae minus quatiuntur, crebris ad eluviem cuniculis cavata.”— Pliny lib. 2 c. 82 (ed. Par5. 1723 t. 1 page 112.) Even at present, in the capital of St. Domingo, wells are considered as diminishing the violence of the shocks. I may observe on this occasion, that the theory of earthquakes, given by Seneca, (Nat. Quaest. lib. 6 c. 4–31), contains the germ of everything that has been said in our times on the action of the elastic vapours confined in the interior of the globe.]
The subterranean232 noise, so frequent during earthquakes, is generally not in the ratio of the force of the shocks. At Cumana it constantly precedes them, while at Quito, and recently at Caracas, and in the West India Islands, a noise like the discharge of a battery was heard a long time after the shocks had ceased. A third kind of phenomenon, the most remarkable of the whole, is the rolling of those subterranean thunders, which last several months, without being accompanied by the least oscillatory motion of the ground.*
[* The subterranean thunders (bramidos y truenos subterraneos) of Guanaxuato. The phenomenon of a noise without shocks was observed by the ancients. — Aristot. Meteor. lib. 2 (ed. Duval page 802). Pliny lib. 2 c. 80.]
In every country subject to earthquakes, the point at which, probably owing to a particular disposition of the stony strata, the effects are most sensibly felt, is considered as the cause and the focus of the shocks. Thus, at Cumana, the hill of the castle of San Antonio, and particularly the eminence174 on which stands the convent of St. Francis, are believed to contain an enormous quantity of sulphur and other inflammable matter. We forget that the rapidity with which the undulations are propagated to great distances, even across the basin of the ocean, proves that the centre of action is very remote from the surface of the globe. From this same cause no doubt earthquakes are not confined to certain species of rocks, as some naturalists suppose, but all are fitted to propagate the movement. Keeping within the limits of my own experience I may here cite the granites233 of Lima and Acapulco; the gneiss of Caracas; the mica-slate of the peninsula of Araya; the primitive234 thonschiefer of Tepecuacuilco, in Mexico; the secondary limestones235 of the Apennines, Spain, and New Andalusia; and finally, the trappean porphyries of the provinces of Quito and Popayan.* In these different places the ground is frequently agitated by the most violent shocks; but sometimes, in the same rock, the superior strata form invincible236 obstacles to the propagation of the motion. Thus, in the mines of Saxony, we have seen workmen hasten up alarmed by oscillations which were not felt at the surface of the ground.
[* I might add to the list of secondary rocks, the gypsum of the newest formation, for instance, that of Montmartre, situated on a marine184 calcareous rock, which is posterior to the chalk. — See the Memoires de l’Academie tome 1 page 341 on the earthquake felt at Paris and its environs in 1681.]
If, in regions the most remote from each other, primitive, secondary, and volcanic rocks, share equally in the convulsive movements of the globe; we cannot but admit also that within a space of little extent, certain classes of rocks oppose themselves to the propagation of the shocks. At Cumana, for instance, before the great catastrophe of 1797, the earthquakes were felt only along the southern and calcareous coast of the gulf of Cariaco, as far as the town of that name; while in the peninsula of Araya, and at the village of Maniquarez, the ground did not share the same agitation237. But since December 1797, new communications appear to have been opened in the interior of the globe. The peninsula of Araya is now not merely subject to the same agitations238 as the soil of Cumana, but the promontory239 of mica-slate, previously free from earthquakes, has become in its turn a central point of commotion240. The earth is sometimes strongly shaken at the village of Maniquarez, when on the coast of Cumana the inhabitants enjoy the most perfect tranquillity. The gulf of Cariaco, nevertheless, is only sixty or eighty fathoms deep.
It has been thought from observations made both on the continent and in the islands, that the western and southern coasts are most exposed to shocks. This observation is connected with opinions which geologists241 have long formed respecting the position of the high chains of mountains, and the direction of their steepest declivities; but the existence of the Cordillera of Caracas, and the frequency of the oscillations on the eastern and northern coast of Terra Firma, in the gulf of Paria, at Carupano, at Cariaco, and at Cumana, render the accuracy of that opinion doubtful.
In New Andalusia, as well as in Chile and Peru, the shocks follow the course of the shore, and extend but little inland. This circumstance, as we shall soon find, indicates an intimate connection between the causes which produce earthquakes and volcanic eruptions242. If the earth was most agitated on the coasts, because they are the lowest part of the land, why should not the oscillations be equally strong and frequent on those vast savannahs or prairies,* which are scarcely eight or ten toises above the level of the ocean?
[* The Llanos of Cumana, of New Barcelona, of Calabozo, of Apure, and of Meta.]
The earthquakes of Cumana are connected with those of the West India Islands; and it has even been suspected that they have some connection with the volcanic phenomena of the Cordilleras of the Andes. On the 4th of February 1797, the soil of the province of Quito suffered such a destructive commotion, that near 40,000 natives perished. At the same period the inhabitants of the eastern Antilles were alarmed by shocks, which continued during eight months, when the volcano of Guadaloupe threw out pumice-stones, ashes, and gusts244 of sulphureous vapours. The eruption243 of the 27th of September, during which very long-continued subterranean noises were heard, was followed on the 14th of December by the great earthquake of Cumana. Another volcano of the West India Islands, that of St. Vincent, affords an example of these extraordinary connections. This volcano had not emitted flames since 1718, when they burst forth245 anew in 1812. The total ruin of the city of Caracas preceded this explosion thirty-five days, and violent oscillations of the ground were felt both in the islands and on the coasts of Terra Firma.
It has long been remarked that the effects of great earthquakes extend much farther than the phenomena arising from burning volcanoes. In studying the physical revolutions of Italy, in carefully examining the series of the eruptions of Vesuvius and Etna, we can scarcely recognise, notwithstanding the proximity of these mountains, any traces of a simultaneous action. It is on the contrary beyond a doubt, that at the period of the last and preceding destruction of Lisbon,* the sea was violently agitated even as far as the New World, for instance, at the island of Barbados, more than twelve hundred leagues distant from the coasts of Portugal.
[* Destruction of Lisbon: The 1st of November, 1755, and 31st of March, 1761. During the first of these earthquakes, the sea inundated, in Europe, the coasts of Sweden, England, and Spain; in America, the islands of Antigua, Barbados, and Martinique. At Barbados, where the ordinary tides rise only from twenty-four to twenty-eight inches, the water rose twenty feet in Carlisle Bay. It became at the same time as black as ink; being, without doubt, mixed with the petroleum, or asphaltum, which abounds246 at the bottom of the sea, as well on the coasts of the gulf of Cariaco, as near the island of Trinidad. In the West Indies, and in several lakes of Switzerland, this extraordinary motion of the waters was observed six hours after the first shock that was felt at Lisbon — Philosophical247 Transactions volume 49 pages 403, 410, 544, 668; ibid. volume 53 page 424. At Cadiz a mountain of water sixty feet high was seen eight miles distant at sea. This mass threw itself impetuously on the coasts, and beat down a great number of houses; like the wave eighty-four feet high, which on the 9th of June, 1586, at the time of the great earthquake of Lima, covered the port of Callao. — Acosta Hist. Natural de las Indias edition de 1591 page 123. In North America, on Lake Ontario, violent agitations of the water were observed from the month of October 1755. These phenomena are proofs of subterraneous communications at enormous distances. On comparing the periods of the great catastrophes of Lima and Guatimala, which generally succeed each other at long intervals, it has sometimes been thought, that the effect of an action slowly propagating along the Cordilleras, sometimes from north to south, at other times from south to north, may be perceived. — Cosmo Bueno Descripcion del Peru ed. de Lima page 67. Four of these remarkable catastrophes, with their dates, may be here enumerated248.
MEXICO. (Latitude 13° 32′ north.) PERU. (Latitude 12° 2′ south.)
30th of November, 1577 17th of June, 1578.
4th of March, 1679 17th of June, 1678.
12th of February, 1689 10th of October, 1688.
27th of September, 1717 8th of February, 1716.
When the shocks are not simultaneous, or do not follow each other at short intervals, great doubts may be entertained with respect to the supposed communication of the movement.]
Several facts tend to prove that the causes which produce earthquakes have a near connection with those which act in volcanic eruptions. The connection of these causes was known to the ancients, and it excited fresh attention at the period of the discovery of America. The discovery of the New World not only offered new productions to the curiosity of man, it also extended the then existing stock of knowledge respecting physical geography, the varieties of the human species, and the migrations249 of nations. It is impossible to read the narratives of early Spanish travellers, especially that of the Jesuit Acosta, without perceiving the influence which the aspect of a great continent, the study of extraordinary appearances of nature, and intercourse with men of different races, must have exercised on the progress of knowledge in Europe. The germ of a great number of physical truths is found in the works of the sixteenth century; and that germ would have fructified250, had it not been crushed by fanaticism251 and superstition252. We learned, at Pasto, that the column of black and thick smoke, which, in 1797, issued for several months from the volcano near that shore, disappeared at the very hour, when, sixty leagues to the south, the towns of Riobamba, Hambato, and Tacunga were destroyed by an enormous shock. In the interior of a burning crater253, near those hillocks formed by ejections of scoriae and ashes, the motion of the ground is felt several seconds before each partial eruption takes place. We observed this phenomenon at Vesuvius in 1805, while the mountain threw out incandescent254 scoriae; we were witnesses of it in 1802, on the brink255 of the immense crater of Pichincha, from which, nevertheless, at that time, clouds of sulphureous acid vapours only issued.
Everything in earthquakes seems to indicate the action of elastic fluids seeking an outlet to diffuse256 themselves in the atmosphere. Often, on the coasts of the Pacific, the action is almost instantaneously communicated from Chile to the gulf of Guayaquil, a distance of six hundred leagues; and, what is very remarkable, the shocks appear to be the stronger in proportion as the country is distant from burning volcanoes. The granitic257 mountains of Calabria, covered with very recent breccias, the calcareous chain of the Apennines, the country of Pignerol, the coasts of Portugal and Greece, those of Peru and Terra Firma, afford striking proofs of this fact. The globe, it may be said, is agitated with the greater force, in proportion as the surface has a smaller number of funnels258 communicating with the caverns of the interior. At Naples and at Messina, at the foot of Cotopaxi and of Tunguragua, earthquakes are dreaded259 only when vapours and flames do not issue from the craters260. In the kingdom of Quito, the great catastrophe of Riobamba led several well-informed persons to think that that country would be less frequently disturbed, if the subterranean fire should break the porphyritic dome of Chimborazo; and if that colossal261 mountain should become a burning volcano. At all times analogous262 facts have led to the same hypotheses. The Greeks, who, like ourselves, attributed the oscillations of the ground to the tension of elastic fluids, cited in favour of their opinion, the total cessation of the shocks at the island of Euboea, by the opening of a crevice in the Lelantine plain.*
[* “The shocks ceased only when a crevice, which ejected a river of fiery263 mud, opened in the plain of Lelantum, near Chalcis.”— Strabo.]
The phenomena of volcanoes, and those of earthquakes, have been considered of late as the effects of voltaic electricity, developed by a particular disposition of heterogeneous264 strata. It cannot be denied, that often, when violent shocks succeed each other within the space of a few hours, the electricity of the air sensibly increases at the instant the ground is most agitated; but to explain this phenomenon, it is unnecessary to recur189 to an hypothesis, which is in direct contradiction to everything hitherto observed respecting the structure of our planet, and the disposition of its strata.
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1
abode
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n.住处,住所 | |
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2
beheld
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v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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verdant
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adj.翠绿的,青翠的,生疏的,不老练的 | |
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picturesque
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adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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par
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n.标准,票面价值,平均数量;adj.票面的,平常的,标准的 | |
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fixed
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adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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7
cape
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n.海角,岬;披肩,短披风 | |
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8
caper
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v.雀跃,欢蹦;n.雀跃,跳跃;续随子,刺山柑花蕾;嬉戏 | |
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9
conspicuous
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adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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azure
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adj.天蓝色的,蔚蓝色的 | |
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11
ascending
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adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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12
ascend
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vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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13
strewed
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v.撒在…上( strew的过去式和过去分词 );散落于;点缀;撒满 | |
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14
cylindric
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adj.圆筒的,圆柱状的 | |
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cactus
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n.仙人掌 | |
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varied
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adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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pelican
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n.鹈鹕,伽蓝鸟 | |
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18
Augmented
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adj.增音的 动词augment的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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19
reverberation
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反响; 回响; 反射; 反射物 | |
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20
destitute
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adj.缺乏的;穷困的 | |
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21
plunged
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v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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22
shrub
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n.灌木,灌木丛 | |
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23
soda
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n.苏打水;汽水 | |
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24
distinguished
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adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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25
peculiar
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adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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26
peculiarity
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n.独特性,特色;特殊的东西;怪癖 | |
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27
remarkable
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adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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28
mangle
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vt.乱砍,撕裂,破坏,毁损,损坏,轧布 | |
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29
botanist
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n.植物学家 | |
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30
temperate
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adj.温和的,温带的,自我克制的,不过分的 | |
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31
akin
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adj.同族的,类似的 | |
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32
strand
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vt.使(船)搁浅,使(某人)困于(某地) | |
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33
stamina
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n.体力;精力;耐力 | |
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34
ridge
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n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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35
lustre
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n.光亮,光泽;荣誉 | |
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36
pointed
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adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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37
vessel
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n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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38
distressing
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a.使人痛苦的 | |
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39
maritime
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adj.海的,海事的,航海的,近海的,沿海的 | |
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40
warfare
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n.战争(状态);斗争;冲突 | |
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41
rupture
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n.破裂;(关系的)决裂;v.(使)破裂 | |
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42
vessels
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n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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43
simultaneously
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adv.同时发生地,同时进行地 | |
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44
worthy
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adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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45
naturalists
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n.博物学家( naturalist的名词复数 );(文学艺术的)自然主义者 | |
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46
naturalist
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n.博物学家(尤指直接观察动植物者) | |
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47
astonishment
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n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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48
oxide
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n.氧化物 | |
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49
procure
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vt.获得,取得,促成;vi.拉皮条 | |
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50
favourable
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adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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51
spacious
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adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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52
astronomical
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adj.天文学的,(数字)极大的 | |
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53
panes
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窗玻璃( pane的名词复数 ) | |
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54
standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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55
bestowed
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赠给,授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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56
pecuniary
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adj.金钱的;金钱上的 | |
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57
intercourse
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n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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58
retail
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v./n.零售;adv.以零售价格 | |
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59
dealer
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n.商人,贩子 | |
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60
insanity
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n.疯狂,精神错乱;极端的愚蠢,荒唐 | |
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61
gulf
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n.海湾;深渊,鸿沟;分歧,隔阂 | |
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62
robust
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adj.强壮的,强健的,粗野的,需要体力的,浓的 | |
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63
irritability
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n.易怒 | |
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64
miasma
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n.毒气;不良气氛 | |
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65
tract
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n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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66
formerly
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adv.从前,以前 | |
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67
eastwards
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adj.向东方(的),朝东(的);n.向东的方向 | |
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68
outlet
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n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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69
lichens
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n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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70
circumference
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n.圆周,周长,圆周线 | |
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71
oars
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n.桨,橹( oar的名词复数 );划手v.划(行)( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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72
abound
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vi.大量存在;(in,with)充满,富于 | |
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73
disposition
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n.性情,性格;意向,倾向;排列,部署 | |
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74
penetrate
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v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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75
arid
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adj.干旱的;(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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76
marshes
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n.沼泽,湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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77
impervious
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adj.不能渗透的,不能穿过的,不易伤害的 | |
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78
fully
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adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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79
solitary
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adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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80
rambles
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(无目的地)漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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81
specimens
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n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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82
twilight
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n.暮光,黄昏;暮年,晚期,衰落时期 | |
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83
situated
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adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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84
vipers
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n.蝰蛇( viper的名词复数 );毒蛇;阴险恶毒的人;奸诈者 | |
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85
viper
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n.毒蛇;危险的人 | |
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86
fangs
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n.(尤指狗和狼的)长而尖的牙( fang的名词复数 );(蛇的)毒牙;罐座 | |
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87
scorched
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烧焦,烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 ); 使(植物)枯萎,把…晒枯; 高速行驶; 枯焦 | |
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88
extremity
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n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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89
fortified
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adj. 加强的 | |
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90
thorny
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adj.多刺的,棘手的 | |
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91
auxiliaries
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n.助动词 ( auxiliary的名词复数 );辅助工,辅助人员 | |
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92
reptile
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n.爬行动物;两栖动物 | |
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93
armour
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(=armor)n.盔甲;装甲部队 | |
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94
porous
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adj.可渗透的,多孔的 | |
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95
tint
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n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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96
descend
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vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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97
descending
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n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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98
delightful
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adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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99
isthmus
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n.地峡 | |
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100
catastrophes
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n.灾祸( catastrophe的名词复数 );灾难;不幸事件;困难 | |
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101
catastrophe
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n.大灾难,大祸 | |
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102
mirage
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n.海市蜃楼,幻景 | |
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103
strata
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n.地层(复数);社会阶层 | |
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104
promontories
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n.岬,隆起,海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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105
phenomena
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n.现象 | |
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106
stony
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adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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107
luminary
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n.名人,天体 | |
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108
densities
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密集( density的名词复数 ); 稠密; 密度(固体、液体或气体单位体积的质量); 密度(磁盘存贮数据的可用空间) | |
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109
posthumous
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adj.遗腹的;父亡后出生的;死后的,身后的 | |
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110
delta
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n.(流的)角洲 | |
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111
edifice
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n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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112
sumptuous
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adj.豪华的,奢侈的,华丽的 | |
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113
overthrown
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adj. 打翻的,推倒的,倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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114
perpendicular
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adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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115
judiciously
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adv.明断地,明智而审慎地 | |
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116
populous
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adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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117
remains
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n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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118
swampy
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adj.沼泽的,湿地的 | |
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119
denomination
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n.命名,取名,(度量衡、货币等的)单位 | |
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120
mere
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adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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121
harpooning
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v.鱼镖,鱼叉( harpoon的现在分词 ) | |
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122
harpoons
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n.鱼镖,鱼叉( harpoon的名词复数 )v.鱼镖,鱼叉( harpoon的第三人称单数 ) | |
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123
civilized
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a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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124
savage
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adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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125
authentic
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a.真的,真正的;可靠的,可信的,有根据的 | |
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126
proximity
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n.接近,邻近 | |
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127
mangrove
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n.(植物)红树,红树林 | |
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128
grove
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n.林子,小树林,园林 | |
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129
sufficiently
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adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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130
intervals
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n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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131
irritable
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adj.急躁的;过敏的;易怒的 | |
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132
previously
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adv.以前,先前(地) | |
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133
botanists
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n.植物学家,研究植物的人( botanist的名词复数 ) | |
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134
clumps
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n.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的名词复数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声v.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声 | |
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135
ligneous
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adj.木质的,木头的 | |
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136
ruminating
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v.沉思( ruminate的现在分词 );反复考虑;反刍;倒嚼 | |
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137
perfectly
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adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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138
nourishment
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n.食物,营养品;营养情况 | |
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139
alpine
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adj.高山的;n.高山植物 | |
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140
aromatic
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adj.芳香的,有香味的 | |
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141
aroma
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n.香气,芬芳,芳香 | |
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142
predilection
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n.偏好 | |
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143
procuring
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v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的现在分词 );拉皮条 | |
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144
drenched
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adj.湿透的;充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 );在某人(某物)上大量使用(某液体) | |
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145
jaguar
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n.美洲虎 | |
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146
gaseous
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adj.气体的,气态的 | |
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147
reptiles
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n.爬行动物,爬虫( reptile的名词复数 ) | |
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148
decomposed
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已分解的,已腐烂的 | |
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149
prodigal
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adj.浪费的,挥霍的,放荡的 | |
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150
adoption
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n.采用,采纳,通过;收养 | |
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151
prospect
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n.前景,前途;景色,视野 | |
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152
declivity
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n.下坡,倾斜面 | |
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153
expressive
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adj.表现的,表达…的,富于表情的 | |
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154
cones
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n.(人眼)圆锥细胞;圆锥体( cone的名词复数 );球果;圆锥形东西;(盛冰淇淋的)锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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155
determined
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adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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156
entirely
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ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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157
surmount
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vt.克服;置于…顶上 | |
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158
thoroughly
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adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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159
plantations
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n.种植园,大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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160
monks
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n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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161
missionaries
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n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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162
ministry
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n.(政府的)部;牧师 | |
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163
foliage
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n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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164
corruption
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n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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165
limpid
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adj.清澈的,透明的 | |
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166
dyke
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n.堤,水坝,排水沟 | |
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167
sterility
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n.不生育,不结果,贫瘠,消毒,无菌 | |
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168
refund
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v.退还,偿还;n.归还,偿还额,退款 | |
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169
sluices
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n.水闸( sluice的名词复数 );(用水闸控制的)水;有闸人工水道;漂洗处v.冲洗( sluice的第三人称单数 );(指水)喷涌而出;漂净;给…安装水闸 | |
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170
mules
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骡( mule的名词复数 ); 拖鞋; 顽固的人; 越境运毒者 | |
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171
hydraulic
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adj.水力的;水压的,液压的;水力学的 | |
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172
ERECTED
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adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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173
eminences
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卓越( eminence的名词复数 ); 著名; 高地; 山丘 | |
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174
eminence
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n.卓越,显赫;高地,高处;名家 | |
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175
descends
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v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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176
apprehensions
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疑惧 | |
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177
spouting
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n.水落管系统v.(指液体)喷出( spout的现在分词 );滔滔不绝地讲;喋喋不休地说;喷水 | |
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178
fathoms
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英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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179
dome
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n.圆屋顶,拱顶 | |
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180
melancholy
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n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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181
windings
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(道路、河流等)蜿蜒的,弯曲的( winding的名词复数 ); 缠绕( wind的现在分词 ); 卷绕; 转动(把手) | |
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182
surmounted
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战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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183
majestic
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adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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184
marine
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adj.海的;海生的;航海的;海事的;n.水兵 | |
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185
tranquil
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adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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186
agitated
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adj.被鼓动的,不安的 | |
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187
reposes
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v.将(手臂等)靠在某人(某物)上( repose的第三人称单数 ) | |
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188
torrents
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n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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189
recur
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vi.复发,重现,再发生 | |
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190
recurrence
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n.复发,反复,重现 | |
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191
inundated
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v.淹没( inundate的过去式和过去分词 );(洪水般地)涌来;充满;给予或交予(太多事物)使难以应付 | |
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192
micaceous
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adj.云母的,含云母的,云母状的 | |
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193
celebrated
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adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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194
attentively
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adv.聚精会神地;周到地;谛;凝神 | |
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195
narratives
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记叙文( narrative的名词复数 ); 故事; 叙述; 叙述部分 | |
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196
termites
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n.白蚁( termite的名词复数 ) | |
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197
colonists
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n.殖民地开拓者,移民,殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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198
thermal
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adj.热的,由热造成的;保暖的 | |
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199
recurred
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再发生,复发( recur的过去式和过去分词 ); 治愈 | |
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200
disastrous
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adj.灾难性的,造成灾害的;极坏的,很糟的 | |
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201
apprehensive
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adj.担心的,恐惧的,善于领会的 | |
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202
olfactory
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adj.嗅觉的 | |
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203
noxious
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adj.有害的,有毒的;使道德败坏的,讨厌的 | |
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204
epidemic
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n.流行病;盛行;adj.流行性的,流传极广的 | |
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205
disorder
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n.紊乱,混乱;骚动,骚乱;疾病,失调 | |
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206
suffocated
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(使某人)窒息而死( suffocate的过去式和过去分词 ); (将某人)闷死; 让人感觉闷热; 憋气 | |
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207
exhaled
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v.呼出,发散出( exhale的过去式和过去分词 );吐出(肺中的空气、烟等),呼气 | |
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208
volcanic
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adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
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209
flakes
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小薄片( flake的名词复数 ); (尤指)碎片; 雪花; 古怪的人 | |
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210
crevice
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n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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211
superstitious
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adj.迷信的 | |
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212
tyrant
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n.暴君,专制的君主,残暴的人 | |
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213
harassed
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adj. 疲倦的,厌烦的 动词harass的过去式和过去分词 | |
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214
remorse
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n.痛恨,悔恨,自责 | |
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215
traitor
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n.叛徒,卖国贼 | |
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216
descended
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a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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217
configuration
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n.结构,布局,形态,(计算机)配置 | |
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218
elastic
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n.橡皮圈,松紧带;adj.有弹性的;灵活的 | |
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219
glaciers
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冰河,冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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220
aurora
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n.极光 | |
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221
regularity
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n.规律性,规则性;匀称,整齐 | |
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222
tranquillity
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n. 平静, 安静 | |
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223
edifices
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n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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224
forerunners
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n.先驱( forerunner的名词复数 );开路人;先兆;前兆 | |
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225
barometer
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n.气压表,睛雨表,反应指标 | |
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226
petroleum
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n.原油,石油 | |
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227
crevices
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n.(尤指岩石的)裂缝,缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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228
bosom
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n.胸,胸部;胸怀;内心;adj.亲密的 | |
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229
minor
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adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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230
abounding
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adj.丰富的,大量的v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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231
caverns
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大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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232
subterranean
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adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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233
granites
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花岗岩,花岗石( granite的名词复数 ) | |
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234
primitive
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adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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235
limestones
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n.石灰岩( limestone的名词复数 ) | |
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236
invincible
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adj.不可征服的,难以制服的 | |
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237
agitation
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n.搅动;搅拌;鼓动,煽动 | |
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238
agitations
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(液体等的)摇动( agitation的名词复数 ); 鼓动; 激烈争论; (情绪等的)纷乱 | |
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239
promontory
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n.海角;岬 | |
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240
commotion
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n.骚动,动乱 | |
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241
geologists
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地质学家,地质学者( geologist的名词复数 ) | |
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242
eruptions
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n.喷发,爆发( eruption的名词复数 ) | |
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243
eruption
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n.火山爆发;(战争等)爆发;(疾病等)发作 | |
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244
gusts
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一阵强风( gust的名词复数 ); (怒、笑等的)爆发; (感情的)迸发; 发作 | |
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245
forth
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adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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246
abounds
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v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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247
philosophical
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adj.哲学家的,哲学上的,达观的 | |
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248
enumerated
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v.列举,枚举,数( enumerate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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249
migrations
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n.迁移,移居( migration的名词复数 ) | |
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250
fructified
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v.结果实( fructify的过去式和过去分词 );使结果实,使多产,使土地肥沃 | |
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251
fanaticism
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n.狂热,盲信 | |
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252
superstition
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n.迷信,迷信行为 | |
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253
crater
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n.火山口,弹坑 | |
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254
incandescent
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adj.遇热发光的, 白炽的,感情强烈的 | |
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255
brink
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n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘,边沿 | |
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256
diffuse
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v.扩散;传播;adj.冗长的;四散的,弥漫的 | |
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257
granitic
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花岗石的,由花岗岩形成的 | |
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258
funnels
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漏斗( funnel的名词复数 ); (轮船,火车等的)烟囱 | |
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259
dreaded
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adj.令人畏惧的;害怕的v.害怕,恐惧,担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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260
craters
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n.火山口( crater的名词复数 );弹坑等 | |
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261
colossal
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adj.异常的,庞大的 | |
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262
analogous
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adj.相似的;类似的 | |
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263
fiery
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adj.燃烧着的,火红的;暴躁的;激烈的 | |
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264
heterogeneous
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adj.庞杂的;异类的 | |
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