On leaving the Rio Apure we found ourselves in a country presenting a totally different aspect. An immense plain of water stretched before us like a lake, as far as we could see. White-topped waves rose to the height of several feet, from the conflict of the breeze and the current. The air resounded3 no longer with the piercing cries of herons, flamingos4, and spoonbills, crossing in long files from one shore to the other. Our eyes sought in vain those waterfowls, the habits of which vary in each tribe. All nature appeared less animated5. Scarcely could we discover in the hollows of the waves a few large crocodiles, cutting obliquely6, by the help of their long tails, the surface of the agitated7 waters. The horizon was bounded by a zone of forests, which nowhere reached so far as the bed of the river. A vast beach, constantly parched8 by the heat of the sun, desert and bare as the shores of the sea, resembled at a distance, from the effect of the mirage9, pools of stagnant10 water. These sandy shores, far from fixing the limits of the river, render them uncertain, by enlarging or contracting them alternately, according to the variable action of the solar rays.
In these scattered11 features of the landscape, in this character of solitude12 and of greatness, we recognize the course of the Orinoco, one of the most majestic13 rivers of the New World. The water, like the land, displays everywhere a characteristic and peculiar14 aspect. The bed of the Orinoco resembles not the bed of the Meta, the Guaviare, the Rio Negro, or the Amazon. These differences do not depend altogether on the breadth or the velocity15 of the current; they are connected with a multitude of impressions which it is easier to perceive upon the spot than to define with precision. Thus, the mere16 form of the waves, the tint17 of the waters, the aspect of the sky and the clouds, would lead an experienced navigator to guess whether he were in the Atlantic, in the Mediterranean18, or in the equinoctial part of the Pacific.
The wind blew fresh from east-north-east. Its direction was favourable19 for sailing up the Orinoco, towards the Mission of Encaramada; but our canoes were so ill calculated to resist the shocks of the waves, that, from the violence of the motion, those who suffered habitually21 at sea were equally incommoded on the river. The short, broken waves are caused by the conflict of the waters at the junction of the two rivers. This conflict is very violent, but far from being so dangerous as Father Gumilla describes. We passed the Punta Curiquima, which is an isolated23 mass of quartzose granite25, a small promontory26 composed of rounded blocks. There, on the right bank of the Orinoco, Father Rotella founded, in the time of the Jesuits, a Mission of the Palenka and Viriviri or Guire Indians. But during inundations, the rock Curiquima and the village at its foot were entirely29 surrounded by water; and this serious inconvenience, together with the sufferings of the missionaries30 and Indians from the innumerable quantity of mosquitos and niguas,* led them to forsake31 this humid spot. It is now entirely deserted32, while opposite to it, on the right bank of the river, the little mountains of Coruato are the retreat of wandering Indians, expelled either from the Missions, or from tribes that are not subject to the government of the monks34.
[* The chego (Pulex penetrans) which penetrates35 under the nails of the toe in men and monkeys, and there deposits its eggs.]
Struck with the extreme breadth of the Orinoco, between the mouth of the Apure and the rock Curiquima, I ascertained37 it by means of a base measured twice on the western beach. The bed of the Orinoco, at low water, was 1906 toises broad; but this breadth increases to 5517 toises, when, in the rainy season, the rock Curiquima, and the farm of Capuchino near the hill of Pocopocori, become islands. The swelling39 of the Orinoco is augmented40 by the impulse of the waters of the Apure, which, far from forming, like other rivers, an acute angle with the upper part of that into which it flows, meets it at right angles.
We first proceeded south-west, as far as the shore inhabited by the Guaricoto Indians on the left bank of the Orinoco, and then we advanced straight toward the south. The river is so broad that the mountains of Encaramada appear to rise from the water, as if seen above the horizon of the sea. They form a continued chain from east to west. These mountains are composed of enormous blocks of granite, cleft41 and piled one upon another. Their division into blocks is the effect of decomposition42. What contributes above all to embellish43 the scene at Encaramada is the luxuriance of vegetation that covers the sides of the rocks, leaving bare only their rounded summits. They look like ancient ruins rising in the midst of a forest. The mountain immediately at the back of the Mission, the Tepupano* of the Tamanac Indians is terminated by three enormous granitic44 cylinders45, two of which are inclined, while the third, though worn at its base, and more than eighty feet high, has preserved a vertical46 position. This rock, which calls to mind the form of the Schnarcher in the Hartz mountains, or that of the Organs of Actopan in Mexico,* composed formerly47 a part of the rounded summit of the mountain. In every climate, unstratified granite separates by decomposition into blocks of prismatic, cylindric48, or columnar figures.
[* Tepu-pano, place of stones, in which we recognize tepu stone, rock, as in tepu-iri, mountain. We here perceive that Lesgian Oigour–Tartar root tep, stone (found in America among the Americans, in teptl; among the Caribs, in tebou; among the Tamanacs, in tepuiri); a striking analogy between the languages of Caucasus and Upper Asia and those of the banks of the Orinoco.]
[* In Captain Tuckey’s Voyage on the river Congo, we find represented a granitic rock, Taddi Enzazi, which bears a striking resemblance to the mountain of Encaramada.]
Opposite the shore of the Guaricotos, we drew near another heap of rocks, which is very low, and three or four toises long. It rises in the midst of the plain, and has less resemblance to a tumulus than to those masses of granitic stone, which in North Holland and Germany bear the name of hunenbette, beds (or tombs) of heroes. The shore, at this part of the Orinoco, is no longer of pure and quartzose sand; but is composed of clay and spangles of mica49, deposited in very thin strata50, and generally at an inclination51 of forty or fifty degrees. It looks like decomposed52 mica-slate. This change in the geological configuration53 of the shore extends far beyond the mouth of the Apure. We had begun to observe it in this latter river as far off as Algodonal and the Cano del Manati. The spangles of mica come, no doubt, from the granite mountains of Curiquima and Encaramada; since further north-east we find only quartzose sand, sandstone, compact limestone54, and gypsum. Alluvial55 earth carried successively from south to north need not surprise us in the Orinoco; but to what shall we attribute the same phenomenon in the bed of the Apure, seven leagues west of its mouth? In the present state of things, notwithstanding the swellings of the Orinoco, the waters of the Apure never retrograde so far; and, to explain this phenomenon, we are forced to admit that the micaceous57 strata were deposited at a time when the whole of the very low country lying between Caycara, Algodonal, and the mountains of Encaramada, formed the basin of an inland lake.
We stopped some time at the port of Encaramada, which is a sort of embarcadero, a place where boats assemble. A rock of forty or fifty feet high forms the shore. It is composed of blocks of granite, heaped one upon another, as at the Schneeberg in Franconia, and in almost all the granitic mountains of Europe. Some of these detached masses have a spheroidal form; they are not balls with concentric layers, but merely rounded blocks, nuclei58 separated from their envelopes by the effect of decomposition. This granite is of a greyish lead-colour, often black, as if covered with oxide59 of manganese; but this colour does not penetrate36 one fifth of a line into the rock, which is of a reddish white colour within, coarse-grained, and destitute60 of hornblende.
The Indian names of the Mission of San Luis del Encaramada, are Guaja and Caramana.* This small village was founded in 1749 by Father Gili, the Jesuit, author of the Storia dell’ Orinoco, published at Rome. This missionary61, learned in the Indian tongues, lived in these solitudes62 during eighteen years, till the expulsion of the Jesuits. To form a precise idea of the savage63 state of these countries it must be recollected65 that Father Gili speaks of Carichana,* which is forty leagues from Encaramada, as of a spot far distant; and that he never advanced so far as the first cataract66 in the river of which he ventured to undertake the description.
[* All the Missions of South America have names composed of two words, the first of which is necessarily the name of a saint, the patron of the church, and the second an Indian name, that of the nation, or the spot where the establishment is placed. Thus we say, San Jose de Maypures, Santa Cruz de Cachipo, San Juan Nepomuceno de los Atures, etc. These compound names appear only in official documents; the Inhabitants adopt but one of the two names, and generally, provided it be sonorous67, the Indian. As the names of saints are several times repeated in neighbouring places, great confusion in geography arises from these repetitions. The names of San Juan, San Diego, and San Pedro, are scattered in our maps as if by chance. It is pretended that the Mission of Guaja affords a very rare example of the composition of two Spanish words. The word Encaramada means things raised one upon another, from encaramar, to raise up. It is derived69 from the figure of Tepupano and the neighbouring rocks: perhaps it is only an Indian word caramana, in which, as in manati, a Spanish signification was believed to be discovered.]
[* Saggio di Storia Americana volume 1 page 122.]
In the port of Encaramada we met with some Caribs of Panapana. A cacique was going up the Orinoco in his canoe, to join in the famous fishing of turtles’ eggs. His canoe was rounded toward the bottom like a bongo, and followed by a smaller boat called a curiara. He was seated beneath a sort of tent, constructed, like the sail, of palm-leaves. His cold and silent gravity, the respect with which he was treated by his attendants, everything denoted him to be a person of importance. He was equipped, however, in the same manner as his Indians. They were all equally naked, armed with bows and arrows, and painted with onoto, which is the colouring fecula of the Bixa orellana. The chief, the domestics, the furniture, the boat, and the sail, were all painted red. These Caribs are men of an almost athletic70 stature71; they appeared to us much taller than any Indians we had hitherto seen. Their smooth and thick hair, cut short on the forehead like that of choristers, their eyebrows72 painted black, their look at once gloomy and animated, gave a singular expression to their countenances73. Having till then seen only the skulls74 of some Caribs of the West India Islands preserved in the collections of Europe, we were surprised to find that these Indians, who were of pure race, had foreheads much more rounded than they are described. The women, who were very tall, and disgusting from their want of cleanliness, carried their infants on their backs. The thighs76 and legs of the infants were bound at certain distances by broad strips of cotton cloth, and the flesh, strongly compressed beneath the ligatures, was swelled77 in the interstices. It is generally to be observed, that the Caribs are as attentive78 to their exterior79 and their ornaments81, as it is possible for men to be, who are naked and painted red. They attach great importance to certain configurations82 of the body; and a mother would be accused of culpable83 indifference84 toward her children, if she did not employ artificial means to shape the calf85 of the leg after the fashion of the country. As none of our Indians of Apure understood the Caribbee language, we could obtain no information from the cacique of Panama respecting the encampments that are made at this season in several islands of the Orinoco for collecting turtles’ eggs.
Near Encaramada a very long island divides the river into two branches. We passed the night in a rocky creek86, opposite the mouth of the Rio Cabullare, which is formed by the Payara and the Atamaica, and is sometimes considered as one of the branches of the Apure, because it communicates with that river by the Rio Arichuna. The evening was beautiful. The moon illumined the tops of the granite rocks. The heat was so uniformly distributed, that, notwithstanding the humidity of the air, no twinkling of the stars was observable, even at four or five degrees above the horizon. The light of the planets was singularly dimmed; and if, on account of the smallness of the apparent diameter of Jupiter, I had not suspected some error in the observation, I should say, that here, for the first time, we thought we distinguished87 the disk of Jupiter with the naked eye. Towards midnight, the north-east wind became extremely violent. It brought no clouds, but the vault88 of the sky was covered more and more with vapours. Strong gusts89 were felt, and made us fear for the safety of our canoe. During this whole day we had seen very few crocodiles, but all of an extraordinary size, from twenty to twenty-four feet. The Indians assured us that the young crocodiles prefer the marshes90, and the rivers that are less broad, and less deep. They crowd together particularly in the Canos, and we may say of them, what Abdallatif says of the crocodiles of the Nile,* “that they swarm91 like worms in the shallow waters of the river, and in the shelter of uninhabited islands.”
[* Description de l’Egypte translated by De Sacy.]
On the 6th of April, whilst continuing to ascend92 the Orinoco, first southward and then to south-west, we perceived the southern side of the Serrania, or chain of the mountains of Encaramada. The part nearest the river is only one hundred and forty or one hundred and sixty toises high; but from its abrupt93 declivities, its situation in the midst of a savannah, and its rocky summits, cut into shapeless prisms, the Serrania appears singularly elevated. Its greatest breadth is only three leagues. According to information given me by the Indians of the Pareka nation, it is considerably94 wider toward the east. The summits of Encaramada form the northernmost link of a group of mountains which border the right bank of the Orinoco, between the latitudes96 of 5° and 7° 30′ from the mouth of the Rio Zama to that of the Cabullare. The different links into which this group is divided are separated by little grassy98 plains. They do not preserve a direction perfectly99 parallel to each other; for the most northern stretch from west to east, and the most southern from north-west to south-east. This change of direction sufficiently100 explains the increase of breadth observed in the Cordillera of Parime towards the east, between the sources of the Orinoco and of the Rio Paruspa. On penetrating101 beyond the great cataracts102 of Atures and of Maypures, we shall see seven principal links, those of Encaramada or Sacuina, of Chaviripa, of Baraguan, of Carichana, of Uniama, of Calitamini, and of Sipapo, successively appear. This sketch103 may serve to give a general idea of the geological configuration of the ground. We recognize everywhere on the globe a tendency toward regular forms, in those mountains that appear the most irregularly grouped. Every link appears, in a transverse section, like a distinct summit, to those who navigate104 the Orinoco; but this division is merely in appearance. The regularity105 in the direction and separation of the links seems to diminish in proportion as we advance towards the east. The mountains of Encaramada join those of Mato, which give birth to the Rio Asiveru or Cuchivero; those of Chaviripe are prolonged by the granite chain of the Corosal, of Amoco, and of Murcielago, towards the sources of the Erevato and the Ventuari.
It was across these mountains, which are inhabited by Indians of gentle character, employed in agriculture,* that, at the time of the expedition for settling boundaries, General Iturriaga took some horned cattle for the supply of the new town of San Fernando de Atabapo. The inhabitants of Encaramada then showed the Spanish soldiers the way by the Rio Manapiari,* which falls into the Ventuari. By descending107 these two rivers, the Orinoco and the Atabapo may be reached without passing the great cataracts, which present almost insurmountable obstacles to the conveyance108 of cattle. The spirit of enterprise which had so eminently109 distinguished the Castilians at the period of the discovery of America, was again roused for a time in the middle of the eighteenth century, when Ferdinand VI was desirous of knowing the true limits of his vast possessions; and in the forests of Guiana, that land of fiction and fabulous110 tradition, the wily Indians revived the chimerical111 idea of the wealth of El Dorado, which had so much occupied the imagination of the first conquerors113.
[* The Mapoyes, Parecas, Javaranas, and Curacicanas, who possess fine plantations114 (conucos) in the savannahs by which these forests are bounded.]
[* Between Encaramada and the Rio Manapiare, Don Miguel Sanchez, chief of this little expedition, crossed the Rio Guainaima, which flows into the Cuchivero. Sanchez died, from the fatigue115 of this journey, on the borders of the Ventuari.]
Amidst the mountains of Encaramada, which, like most coarse-grained granite rocks, are destitute of metallic116 veins118, we cannot help inquiring whence came those grains of gold which Juan Martinez* and Raleigh profess119 to have seen in such abundance in the hands of the Indians of the Orinoco. From what I observed in that part of America, I am led to think that gold, like tin,* is sometimes disseminated120 in an almost imperceptible manner in the very mass of granite rocks, without our being able to perceive that there is a ramification121 and an intertwining of small veins. Not long ago the Indians of Encaramada found in the Quebrada del Tigre* a piece of native gold two lines in diameter. It was rounded, and appeared to have been washed along by the waters. This discovery excited the attention of the missionaries much more than of the natives; it was followed by no other of the same kind.
[* The companion of Diego Ordaz.]
[* Thus tin is found in granite of recent formation, at Geyer; in hyalomicte or graisen, at Zinnwald; and in syenitic porphyry, at Altenberg, in Saxony, as well as near Naila, in the Fichtelgebirge. I have also seen, in the Upper Palatinate, micaceous iron, and black earthy cobalt, far from any kind of vein117, disseminated in a granite destitute of mica, as magnetic iron-sand is in volcanic122 rocks.]
[* The Tiger-ravine.]
I cannot quit this first link of the mountains of Encaramada without recalling to mind a fact that was not unknown to Father Gili, and which was often mentioned to me during our abode123 in the Missions of the Orinoco. The natives of those countries have retained the belief that, “at the time of the great waters, when their fathers were forced to have recourse to boats, to escape the general inundation27, the waves of the sea beat against the rocks of Encaramada.” This belief is not confined to one nation singly, the Tamanacs; it makes part of a system of historical tradition, of which we find scattered notions among the Maypures of the great cataracts; among the Indians of the Rio Erevato, which runs into the Caura; and among almost all the tribes of the Upper Orinoco. When the Tamanacs are asked how the human race survived this great deluge124, the age of water, of the Mexicans, they say, a man and a woman saved themselves on a high mountain, called Tamanacu, situated125 on the banks of the Asiveru; and casting behind them, over their heads, the fruits of the mauritia palm-tree, they saw the seeds contained in those fruits produce men and women, who repeopled the earth. Thus we find in all its simplicity127, among nations now in a savage state, a tradition which the Greeks embellished128 with all the charms of imagination! A few leagues from Encaramada, a rock, called Tepu-mereme, or the painted rock, rises in the midst of the savannah. Upon it are traced representations of animals, and symbolic129 figures resembling those we saw in going down the Orinoco, at a small distance below Encaramada, near the town Caycara. Similar rocks in Africa are called by travellers fetish stones. I shall not make use of this term, because fetishism does not prevail among the natives of the Orinoco; and the figures of stars, of the sun, of tigers, and of crocodiles, which we found traced upon the rocks in spots now uninhabited, appeared to me in no way to denote the objects of worship of those nations. Between the banks of the Cassiquiare and the Orinoco, between Encaramada, the Capuchino, and Caycara, these hieroglyphic130 figures are often seen at great heights, on rocky cliffs which could be accessible only by constructing very lofty scaffolds. When the natives are asked how those figures could have been sculptured, they answer with a smile, as if relating a fact of which only a white man could be ignorant, that “at the period of the great waters, their fathers went to that height in boats.”
These ancient traditions of the human race, which we find dispersed132 over the whole surface of the globe, like the relics133 of a vast shipwreck134, are highly interesting in the philosophical135 study of our own species. Like certain families of the vegetable kingdom, which, notwithstanding the diversity of climates and the influence of heights, retain the impression of a common type, the traditions of nations respecting the origin of the world, display everywhere the same physiognomy, and preserve features of resemblance that fill us with astonishment136. How many different tongues, belonging to branches that appear totally distinct, transmit to us the same facts! The traditions concerning races that have been destroyed, and the renewal137 of nature, scarcely vary in reality, though every nation gives them a local colouring. In the great continents, as in the smallest islands of the Pacific Ocean, it is always on the loftiest and nearest mountain that the remains138 of the human race have been saved; and this event appears the more recent, in proportion as the nations are uncultivated, and as the knowledge they have of their own existence has no very remote date. After having studied with attention the Mexican monuments anterior139 to the discovery of the New World; after having penetrated140 into the forests of the Orinoco, and observed the diminutive141 size of the European establishments, their solitude, and the state of the tribes that have remained independent; we cannot allow ourselves to attribute the analogies just cited to the influence exercised by the missionaries, and by Christianity, on the national traditions. Nor is it more probable, that the discovery of sea-shells on the summit of mountains gave birth, among the nations of the Orinoco, to the tradition of some great inundation which extinguished for a time the germs of organic life on our globe. The country that extends from the right bank of the Orinoco to the Cassiquiare and the Rio Negro, is a country of primitive143 rocks. I saw there one small formation of sandstone or conglomerate144; but no secondary limestone, and no trace of petrifactions.
A fresh north-east breeze carried us full-sail towards the Boca de la Tortuga. We landed, at eleven in the morning, on an island which the Indians of the Missions of Uruana considered as their property, and which lies in the middle of the river. This island is celebrated145 for the turtle fishery, or, as they say here, the cosecha, the harvest [of eggs,] that takes place annually146. We here found an assemblage of Indians, encamped under huts made of palm-leaves. This encampment contained more than three hundred persons. Accustomed, since we had left San Fernando de Apure, to see only desert shores, we were singularly struck by the bustle148 that prevailed here. We found, besides the Guamos and the Ottomacs of Uruana, who are both considered as savage races, Caribs and other Indians of the Lower Orinoco. Every tribe was separately encamped, and was distinguished by the pigments149 with which their skins were painted. Some white men were seen amidst this tumultuous assemblage, chiefly pulperos, or little traders of Angostura, who had come up the river to purchase turtle oil from the natives. The missionary of Uruana, a native of Alcala, came to meet us, and he was extremely astonished at seeing us. After having admired our instruments, he gave us an exaggerated picture of the sufferings to which we should be necessarily exposed in ascending153 the Orinoco beyond the cataracts. The object of our journey appeared to him very mysterious. “How is it possible to believe,” said he, “that you have left your country, to come and be devoured155 by mosquitos on this river, and to measure lands that are not your own?” We were happily furnished with recommendations from the Superior of the Franciscan Missions, and the brother-inlaw of the governor of Varinas, who accompanied us, soon dissipated the doubts to which our dress, our accent, and our arrival in this sandy island, had given rise among the Whites. The missionary invited us to partake a frugal156 repast of fish and plantains. He told us that he had come to encamp with the Indians during the time of the harvest of eggs, “to celebrate mass every morning in the open air, to procure157 the oil necessary for the church-lamps, and especially to govern this mixed republic (republica de Indios y Castellanos) in which every one wished to profit singly by what God had granted to all.”
We made the tour of the island, accompanied by the missionary and by a pulpero, who boasted of having, for ten successive years, visited the camp of the Indians, and attended the turtle-fishery. We were on a plain of sand perfectly smooth; and were told that, as far as we could see along the beach, turtles’ eggs were concealed158 under a layer of earth. The missionary carried a long pole in his hand. He showed us, that by means of this pole, the extent of the stratum159 of eggs could be determined160 as accurately161 as the miner determines the limits of a bed of marl, of bog162 iron-ore, or of coal. On thrusting the rod perpendicularly164 into the ground, the sudden want of resistance shows that the cavity or layer of loose earth containing the eggs, has been reached. We saw that the stratum is generally spread with so much uniformity, that the pole finds it everywhere in a radius165 of ten toises around any given spot. Here they talk continually of square perches166 of eggs; it is like a mining-country, divided into lots, and worked with the greatest regularity. The stratum of eggs, however, is far from covering the whole island: they are not found wherever the ground rises abruptly167, because the turtle cannot mount heights. I related to my guides the emphatic168 description of Father Gumilla, who asserts, that the shores of the Orinoco contain fewer grains of sand than the river contains turtles; and that these animals would prevent vessels169 from advancing, if men and tigers did not annually destroy so great a number.* “Son cuentos de frailes,” “they are monkish171 legends,” said the pulpero of Angostura, in a low voice; for the only travellers in this country being the missionaries, they here call monks’ stories, what we call travellers’ tales, in Europe.
[* “It would be as difficult to count the grains of sand on the shores of the Orinoco, as to count the immense number of tortoises which inhabit its margins172 and waters. Were it not for the vast consumption of tortoises and their eggs, the river Orinoco, despite its great magnitude, would be unnavigable, for vessels would be impeded173 by the enormous multitude of the tortoises.” Gumilla, Orinoco Illustrata volume 1 pages 331 to 336.]
The Indians assured us that, in going up the Orinoco from its mouth to its junction with the Apure, not one island or one beach is to be found, where eggs can be collected in abundance. The great turtle (arrau*) dreads175 places inhabited by men, or much frequented by boats. It is a timid and mistrustful animal, raising only its head above the water, and hiding itself at the least noise. The shores where almost all the turtles of the Orinoco appear to assemble annually, are situated between the junction of the Orinoco with the Apure, and the great cataracts; that is to say, between Cabruta and the Mission of Atures. There are found the three famous fisheries; those of Encaramada, or Boca del Cabullare; of Cucuruparu, or Boca de la Tortuga; and of Pararuma, a little below Carichana. It seems that the arrau does not pass beyond the cataracts; and we were assured, that only the turtles called terekay, (in Spanish terecayas,) are found above Atures and Maypures.
[* This word belongs to the Maypure language, and must not be confounded with arua, which means a crocodile, among the Tamanacs, neighbours of the Maypures. The Ottomacs call the turtle of Uruana, achea; the Tamanacs, peje.]
The arrau, called by the Spaniards of the Missions simply tortuga, is an animal whose existence is of great importance to the nations on the Lower Orinoco. It is a large freshwater tortoise, with palmate and membraneous176 feet; the head very flat, with two fleshy and acutely-pointed appendages177 under the chin; five claws to the fore2 feet, and four to the hind126 feet, which are furrowed179 underneath181. The upper shell has five central, eight lateral182, and twenty-four marginal plates. The colour is darkish grey above, and orange beneath. The feet are yellow, and very long. There is a deep furrow180 between the eyes. The claws are very strong and crooked183. The anus is placed at the distance of one-fifth from the extremity184 of the tail. The full-grown animal weighs from forty to fifty pounds. Its eggs are much larger than those of pigeons, and less elongated185 than the eggs of the terekay. They are covered with a calcareous crust, and, it is said, they have sufficient firmness for the children of the Ottomac Indians, who are great players at ball, to throw them into the air from one to another. If the arrau inhabited the bed of the river above the cataracts, the Indians of the Upper Orinoco would not travel so far to procure the flesh and the eggs of this tortoise. Yet, formerly, whole tribes from the Atabapo and the Cassiquiare have been known to pass the cataracts, in order to take part in the fishery at Uruana.
The terekay is less than the arrau. It is in general only fourteen inches in diameter. The number of plates in the upper shell is the same, but they are somewhat differently arranged. I counted three in the centre of the disk, and five hexagonal on each side. The margins contain twenty-four, all quadrangular, and much curved. The upper shell is of a black colour inclining to green; the feet and claws are like those of the arrau. The whole animal is of an olive-green, but it has two spots of red mixed with yellow on the top of the head. The throat is also yellow, and furnished with a prickly appendage178. The terekays do not assemble in numerous societies like the arraus, to lay their eggs in common, and deposit them upon the same shore. The eggs of the terekay have an agreeable taste, and are much sought after by the inhabitants of Spanish Guiana. They are found in the Upper Orinoco, as well as below the cataracts, and even in the Apure, the Uritucu, the Guarico, and the small rivers that traverse the Llanos of Caracas. The form of the feet and head, the appendages of the chin and throat, and the position of the anus, seem to indicate that the arrau, and probably the terekay also, belong to a new subdivision of the tortoises, that may be separated from the emydes. The period at which the large arrau tortoise lays its eggs coincides with the period of the lowest waters. The Orinoco beginning to increase from the vernal equinox, the lowest flats are found uncovered from the end of January till the 20th or 25th of March. The arrau tortoises collect in troops in the month of January, then issue from the water, and warm themselves in the sun, reposing186 on the sands. The Indians believe that great heat is indispensable to the health of the animal, and that its exposure to the sun favours the laying of the eggs. The arraus are found on the beach a great part of the day during the whole month of February. At the beginning of March the straggling troops assemble, and swim towards the small number of islands on which they habitually deposit their eggs. It is probable that the same tortoise returns every year to the same locality. At this period, a few days before they lay their eggs, thousands of these animals may be seen ranged in long files, on the borders of the islands of Cucuruparu, Uruana, and Pararuma, stretching out their necks and holding their heads above water, to see whether they have anything to dread174. The Indians, who are anxious that the bands when assembled should not separate, that the tortoises should not disperse131, and that the laying of the eggs should be performed tranquilly187, place sentinels at certain distances along the shore. The people who pass in boats are told to keep in the middle of the river, and not frighten the tortoises by cries. The laying of the eggs takes place always during the night, and it begins soon after sunset. With its hind feet, which are very long, and furnished with crooked claws, the animal digs a hole of three feet in diameter and two in depth. These tortoises feel so pressing a desire to lay their eggs, that some of them descend106 into holes that have been dug by others, but which are not yet covered with earth. There they deposit a new layer of eggs on that which has been recently laid. In this tumultuous movement an immense number of eggs are broken. The missionary showed us, by removing the sand in several places, that this loss probably amounts to a fifth of the whole quantity. The yolk188 of the broken eggs contributes, in drying, to cement the sand; and we found very large concretions of grains of quartz24 and broken shells. The number of animals working on the beach during the night is so considerable, that day surprises many of them before the laying of their eggs is terminated. They are then urged on by the double necessity of depositing their eggs, and closing the holes they have dug, that they may not be perceived by the jaguars189. The tortoises that thus remain too late are insensible to their own danger. They work in the presence of the Indians, who visit the beach at a very early hour, and who call them mad tortoises. Notwithstanding the rapidity of their movements, they are then easily caught with the hand.
The three encampments formed by the Indians, in the places indicated above, begin about the end of March or commencement of April. The gathering191 of the eggs is conducted in a uniform manner, and with that regularity which characterises all monastic institutions. Before the arrival of the missionaries on the banks of the river, the Indians profited much less from a production which nature has supplied in such abundance. Every tribe searched the beach in its own way; and an immense number of eggs were uselessly broken, because they were not dug up with precaution, and more eggs were uncovered than could be carried away. It was like a mine worked by unskilful hands. The Jesuits have the merit of having reduced this operation to regularity; and though the Franciscan monks, who succeeded the Jesuits in the Missions of the Orinoco, boast of having followed the example of their predecessors193, they unhappily do not effect all that prudence194 requires. The Jesuits did not suffer the whole beach to be searched; they left a part untouched, from the fear of seeing the breed of tortoises, if not destroyed, at least considerably diminished. The whole beach is now dug up without reserve; and accordingly it seems to be perceived that the gathering is less productive from year to year.
When the camp is formed, the missionary of Uruana names his lieutenant195, or commissary, who divides the ground where the eggs are found into different portions, according to the number of the Indian tribes who take part in the gathering. They are all Indians of Missions, as naked and rude as the Indians of the woods; though they are called reducidos and neofitos, because they go to church at the sound of the bell, and have learned to kneel down during the consecration196 of the host.
The lieutenant (commissionado del Padre) begins his operations by sounding. He examines by means of a long wooden pole or a cane197 of bamboo, how far the stratum of eggs extends. This stratum, according to our measurements, extended to the distance of one hundred and twenty feet from the shore. Its average depth is three feet. The commissionado places marks to indicate the point where each tribe should stop in its labours. We were surprised to hear this harvest of eggs estimated like the produce of a well-cultivated field. An area accurately measured of one hundred and twenty feet long, and thirty feet wide, has been known to yield one hundred jars of oil, valued at about forty pounds sterling198. The Indians remove the earth with their hands; they place the eggs they have collected in small baskets, carry them to their encampment, and throw them into long troughs of wood filled with water. In these troughs the eggs, broken and stirred with shovels199, remain exposed to the sun till the oily part, which swims on the surface, has time to inspissate. As fast as this collects on the surface of the water, it is taken off and boiled over a quick fire. This animal oil, called tortoise butter (manteca de tortugas*) keeps the better, it is said, in proportion as it has undergone a strong ebullition. When well prepared, it is limpid200, inodorous, and scarcely yellow. The missionaries compare it to the best olive oil, and it is used not merely for burning in lamps, but for cooking. It is not easy, however, to procure oil of turtles’ eggs quite pure. It has generally a putrid201 smell, owing to the mixture of eggs in which the young are already formed.
[* The Tamanac Indians give it the name of carapa; the Maypures call it timi.]
I acquired some general statistical202 notions on the spot, by consulting the missionary of Uruana, his lieutenant, and the traders of Angostura. The shore of Uruana furnishes one thousand botijas, or jars of oil, annually. The price of each jar at Angostura varies from two piastres to two and a half. We may admit that the total produce of the three shores, where the cosecha, or gathering of eggs, is annually made, is five thousand botijas. Now as two hundred eggs yield oil enough to fill a bottle (limeta), it requires five thousand eggs for a jar or botija of oil. Estimating at one hundred, or one hundred and sixteen, the number of eggs that one tortoise produces, and reckoning that one third of these is broken at the time of laying, particularly by the mad tortoises, we may presume that, to obtain annually five thousand jars of oil, three hundred and thirty thousand arrau tortoises, the weight of which amounts to one hundred and sixty-five thousand quintals, must lay thirty-three millions of eggs on the three shores where this harvest is gathered. The results of these calculations are much below the truth. Many tortoises lay only sixty or seventy eggs; and a great number of these animals are devoured by jaguars at the moment they emerge from the water. The Indians bring away a great number of eggs to eat them dried in the sun; and they break a considerable number through carelessness during the gathering. The number of eggs that are hatched before the people can dig them up is so prodigious203, that near the encampment of Uruana I saw the whole shore of the Orinoco swarming204 with little tortoises an inch in diameter, escaping with difficulty from the pursuit of the Indian children. If to these considerations be added, that all the arraus do not assemble on the three shores of the encampments; and that there are many which lay their eggs in solitude, and some weeks later,* between the mouth of the Orinoco and the confluence205 of the Apure; we must admit that the number of turtles which annually deposit their eggs on the banks of the Lower Orinoco, is near a million. This number is very great for so large an animal. In general large animals multiply less considerably than the smaller ones.
[* The arraus, which lay their eggs before the beginning of March, (for in the same species the more or less frequent basking206 in the sun, the food, and the peculiar organization of each individual, occasion differences,) come out of the water with the terekays, which lay in January and February. Father Gumilla believes them to be arraus that were not able to lay their eggs the preceding year. It is difficult to find the eggs of the terekays, because these animals, far from collecting in thousands on the same beach, deposit their eggs as they are scattered about.]
The labour of collecting the eggs, and preparing the oil, occupies three weeks. It is at this period only that the missionaries have any communication with the coast and the civilized208 neighbouring countries. The Franciscan monks who live south of the cataracts, come to the harvest of eggs less to procure oil, than to see, as they say, white faces; and to learn whether the king inhabits the Escurial or San Ildefonso, whether convents are still suppressed in France, and above all, whether the Turks continue to keep quiet. On these subjects, (the only ones interesting to a monk33 of the Orinoco), the small traders of Angostura, who visit the encampments, can give, unfortunately, no very exact information. But in these distant countries no doubt is ever entertained of the news brought by a white man from the capital. The profit of the traders in oil amounts to seventy or eighty per cent; for the Indians sell it them at the price of a piastre a jar or botija, and the expense of carriage is not more than two-fifths of a piastre per jar. The Indians bring away also a considerable quantity of eggs dried in the sun, or slightly boiled. Our rowers had baskets or little bags of cotton-cloth filled with these eggs. Their taste is not disagreeable, when well preserved. We were shown large shells of turtles, which had been destroyed by the jaguars. These animals follow the arraus towards those places on the beach where the eggs are laid. They surprise the arraus on the sand; and, in order to devour154 them at their ease, turn them in such a manner that the under shell is uppermost. In this situation the turtles cannot rise; and as the jaguar190 turns many more than he can eat in one night, the Indians often avail themselves of his cunning and avidity.
When we reflect on the difficulty experienced by the naturalist209 in getting out the body of the turtle without separating the upper and under shells, we cannot sufficiently wonder at the suppleness210 of the tiger’s paw, which is able to remove the double armour211 of the arrau, as if the adhering parts of the muscles had been cut by a surgical212 instrument. The jaguar pursues the turtle into the water when it is not very deep. It even digs up the eggs; and together with the crocodile, the heron, and the galinazo vulture, is the most cruel enemy of the little turtles recently hatched. The island of Pararuma had been so much infested213 with crocodiles the preceding year, during the egg-harvest, that the Indians in one night caught eighteen, of twelve or fifteen feet long, by means of curved pieces of iron, baited with the flesh of the manatee214. Besides the beasts of the forests we have just named, the wild Indians also very much diminish the quantity of the oil. Warned by the first slight rains, which they call turtle-rains (peje canepori*), they hasten to the banks of the Orinoco, and kill the turtles with poisoned arrows, whilst, with upraised heads and paws extended, the animals are warming themselves in the sun.
[* In the Tamanac language, from peje, a tortoise, and canepo, rain.]
Though the little turtles (tortuguillos) may have burst the shells of their eggs during the day, they are never seen to come out of the ground but at night. The Indians assert that the young animal fears the heat of the sun. They tried also to show us, that when the tortuguillo is carried in a bag to a distance from the shore, and placed in such a manner that its tail is turned to the river, it takes without hesitation215 the shortest way to the water. I confess, that this experiment, of which Father Gumilla speaks, does not always succeed equally well: yet in general it does appear that at great distances from the shore, and even in an island, these little animals feel with extreme delicacy216 in what direction the most humid air prevails.
Reflecting on the almost uninterrupted layer of eggs that extends along the beach, and on the thousands of little turtles that seek the water as soon as they are hatched, it is difficult to admit that the many turtles which have made their nests in the same spot, can distinguish their own young, and lead them, like the crocodiles, to the lakes in the vicinity of the Orinoco. It is certain, however, that the animal passes the first years of its life in pools where the water is shallow, and does not return to the bed of the great river till it is full-grown. How then do the tortuguillos find these pools? Are they led thither217 by female turtles, which adopt the young as by chance? The crocodiles, less numerous, deposit their eggs in separate holes; and, in this family of saurians, the female returns about the time when the incubation is terminated, calls her young, which answer to her voice, and often assists them to get out of the ground. The arrau tortoise, no doubt, like the crocodile, knows the spot where she has made her nest; but, not daring to return to the beach on which the Indians have formed their encampment, how can she distinguish her own young from those which do not belong to her? On the other hand, the Ottomac Indians declare that, at the period of inundation, they have met with female turtles followed by a great number of young ones. These were perhaps arraus whose eggs had been deposited on a desert beach to which they could return. Males are extremely rare among these animals. Scarcely is one male found among several hundred females. The cause of this disparity cannot be the same as with the crocodiles, which fight in the coupling season.
Our pilot had anchored at the Playa de huevos, to purchase some provisions, our store having begun to run short. We found there fresh meat, Angostura rice, and even biscuit made of wheat-flour. Our Indians filled the boat with little live turtles, and eggs dried in the sun, for their own use. Having taken leave of the missionary of Uruana, who had treated us with great kindness, we set sail about four in the afternoon. The wind was fresh, and blew in squalls. Since we had entered the mountainous part of the country, we had discovered that our canoe carried sail very badly; but the master was desirous of showing the Indians who were assembled on the beach, that, by going close to the wind, he could reach, at one single tack218, the middle of the river. At the very moment when he was boasting of his dexterity219, and the boldness of his manoeuvre220, the force of the wind upon the sail became so great that we were on the point of going down. One side of the boat was under water, which rushed in with such violence that it was soon up to our knees. It washed over a little table at which I was writing at the stern of the boat. I had some difficulty to save my journal, and in an instant we saw our books, papers, and dried plants, all afloat. M. Bonpland was lying asleep in the middle of the canoe. Awakened221 by the entrance of the water and the cries of the Indians, he understood the danger of our situation, whilst he maintained that coolness which he always displayed in the most difficult circumstances. The lee-side righting itself from time to time during the squall, he did not consider the boat as lost. He thought that, were we even forced to abandon it, we might save ourselves by swimming, since there was no crocodile in sight. Amidst this uncertainty222 the cordage of the sail suddenly gave way. The same gust75 of wind, that had thrown us on our beam, served also to right us. We laboured to bale the water out of the boat with calabashes, the sail was again set, and in less than half an hour we were in a state to proceed. The wind now abated223 a little. Squalls alternating with dead calms are common in that part of the Orinoco which is bordered by mountains. They are very dangerous for boats deeply laden224, and without decks. We had escaped as if by miracle. To the reproaches that were heaped on our pilot for having kept too near the wind, he replied with the phlegmatic225 coolness peculiar to the Indians, observing “that the whites would find sun enough on those banks to dry their papers.” We lost only one book — the first volume of the Genera Plantarum of Schreber — which had fallen overboard. At nightfall we landed on a barren island in the middle of the river, near the Mission of Uruana. We supped in a clear moonlight, seating ourselves on some large turtle-shells that were found scattered about the beach. What satisfaction we felt on finding ourselves thus comfortably landed! We figured to ourselves the situation of a man who had been saved alone from shipwreck, wandering on these desert shores, meeting at every step with other rivers which fall into the Orinoco, and which it is dangerous to pass by swimming, on account of the multitude of crocodiles and caribe fishes. We pictured to ourselves such a man, alive to the most tender affections of the soul, ignorant of the fate of his companions, and thinking more of them than of himself. If we love to indulge such melancholy226 meditations227, it is because, when just escaped from danger, we seem to feel as it were the necessity of strong emotions. Our minds were full of what we had just witnessed. There are periods in life when, without being discouraged, the future appears more uncertain. It was only three days since we had entered the Orinoco, and there yet remained three months for us to navigate rivers encumbered229 with rocks, and in boats smaller than that in which we had so nearly perished.
The night was intensely hot. We lay upon skins spread on the ground, there being no trees to which we could fasten our hammocks. The torments231 of the mosquitos increased every day; and we were surprised to find that on this spot our fires did not prevent the approach of the jaguars. They swam across the arm of the river that separated us from the mainland. Towards morning we heard their cries very near. They had come to the island where we passed the night. The Indians told us that, during the collecting of the turtles’ eggs, tigers are always more frequent in those regions, and display at that period the greatest intrepidity232.
On the following day, the 7th, we passed, on our right, the mouth of the great Rio Arauca, celebrated for the immense number of birds that frequent it; and, on our left, the Mission of Uruana, commonly called La Concepcion de Urbana. This small village, which contains five hundred souls, was founded by the Jesuits, about the year 1748, by the union of the Ottomac and Cavere Indians. It lies at the foot of a mountain composed of detached blocks of granite, which, I believe, bears the name of Saraguaca. Masses of rock, separated one from the other by the effect of decomposition, form caverns233, in which we find indubitable proofs of the ancient civilization of the natives. Hieroglyphic figures, and even characters in regular lines, are seen sculptured on their sides; though I doubt whether they bear any analogy to alphabetic234 writing. We visited the Mission of Uruana on our return from the Rio Negro, and saw with our own eyes those heaps of earth which the Ottomacs eat, and which have become the subject of such lively discussion in Europe.*
[* This earth is a greasy235 kind of clay, which, in seasons of scarcity236, the natives use to assuage237 the cravings of hunger; it having been proved by their experience as well as by physiological238 researches, that want of food can be more easily borne by filling the cavity of the stomach with some substance, even although it may be in itself very nearly or totally innutritious. The Indian hunters of North America, for the same purpose, tie boards tightly across the abdomen239; and most savage races are found to have recourse to expedients240 that answer the same end.]
On measuring the breadth of the Orinoco between the islands called Isla de Uruana and Isla de la Manteca, we found it, during the high waters, 2674 toises, which make nearly four nautical242 miles. This is eight times the breadth of the Nile at Manfalout and Syout, yet we were at the distance of a hundred and ninety-four leagues from the mouth of the Orinoco.
The temperature of the water at its surface was 27.8° of the centigrade thermometer, near Uruana. That of the river Zaire, or Congo, in Africa, at an equal distance from the equator, was found by Captain Tuckey, in the months of July and August, to be only from 23.9 to 25.6°.
The western bank of the Orinoco remains low farther than the mouth of the Meta; while from the Mission of Uruana the mountains approach the eastern bank more and more. As the strength of the current increases in proportion as the river grows narrower, the progress of our boat became much slower. We continued to ascend the Orinoco under sail, but the high and woody grounds deprived us of the wind. At other times the narrow passes between the mountains by which we sailed, sent us violent gusts, but of short duration. The number of crocodiles increased below the junction of the Rio Arauca, particularly opposite the great lake of Capanaparo, which communicates with the Orinoco, as the Laguna de Cabullarito communicates at the same time with the Orinoco and the Rio Arauca. The Indians told us that the crocodiles came from the inlands, where they had been buried in the dried mud of the savannahs. As soon as the first showers arouse them from their lethargy, they crowd together in troops, and hasten toward the river, there to disperse again. Here, in the equinoctial zone, it is the increase of humidity that recalls them to life; while in Georgia and Florida, in the temperate243 zone, it is the augmentation of heat that rouses these animals from a state of nervous and muscular debility, during which the active powers of respiration244 are suspended or singularly diminished. The season of great drought, improperly245 called the summer of the torrid zone, corresponds with the winter of the temperate zone; and it is a curious physiological phenomenon to observe the alligators246 of North America plunged247 into a winter-sleep by excess of cold, at the same period when the crocodiles of the Llanos begin their siesta248 or summer-sleep. If it were probable that these animals of the same family had heretofore inhabited the same northern country, we might suppose that, in advancing towards the equator, they feel the want of repose249 after having exercised their muscles for seven or eight months, and that they retain under a new sky the habits which appear to be essentially250 linked with their organization.
Having passed the mouths of the channels communicating with the lake of Capanaparo, we entered a part of the Orinoco, where the bed of the river is narrowed by the mountains of Baraguan. It is a kind of strait, reaching nearly to the confluence of the Rio Suapure. From these granite mountains the natives heretofore gave the name of Baraguan to that part of the Orinoco comprised between the mouths of the Arauca and the Atabapo. Among savage nations great rivers bear different denominations251 in the different portions of their course. The Passage of Baraguan presents a picturesque253 scene. The granite rocks are perpendicular163. They form a range of mountains lying north-west and south-east; and the river cutting this dyke254 nearly at a right angle, the summits of the mountains appear like separate peaks. Their elevation255 in general does not surpass one hundred and twenty toises; but their situation in the midst of a small plain, their steep declivities, and their flanks destitute of vegetation, give them a majestic character. They are composed of enormous masses of granite of a parallelopipedal figure, but rounded at the edges, and heaped one upon another. The blocks are often eighty feet long, and twenty or thirty broad. They would seem to have been piled up by some external force, if the proximity256 of a rock identical in its composition, not separated into blocks but filled with veins, did not prove that the parallelopipedal form is owing solely257 to the action of the atmosphere. These veins, two or three inches thick, are distinguished by a fine-grained quartz-granite crossing a coarse-grained granite almost porphyritic, and abounding258 in fine crystals of red feldspar. I sought in vain, in the Cordillera of Baraguan, for hornblende, and those steatitic masses that characterise several granites259 of the Higher Alps in Switzerland.
We landed in the middle of the strait of Baraguan to measure its breadth. The rocks project so much towards the river that I measured with difficulty a base of eighty toises. I found the river eight hundred and eighty-nine toises broad. In order to conceive how this passage bears the name of a strait, we must recollect64 that the breadth of the river from Uruana to the junction of the Meta is in general from 1500 to 2500 toises. In this place, which is extremely hot and barren, I measured two granite summits, much rounded: one was only a hundred and ten, and the other eighty-five, toises. There are higher summits in the interior of the group, but in general these mountains, of so wild an aspect, have not the elevation that is assigned to them by the missionaries.
We looked in vain for plants in the clefts260 of the rocks, which are as steep as walls, and furnish some traces of stratification. We found only an old trunk of aubletia*, with large apple-shaped fruit, and a new species of the family of the apocyneae.* All the stones were covered with an innumerable quantity of iguanas261 and geckos with spreading and membranous262 fingers. These lizards263, motionless, with heads raised, and mouths open, seemed to suck in the heated air. The thermometer placed against the rock rose to 50.2°. The soil appeared to undulate, from the effect of mirage, without a breath of wind being felt. The sun was near the zenith, and its dazzling light, reflected from the surface of the river, contrasted with the reddish vapours that enveloped264 every surrounding object. How vivid is the impression produced by the calm of nature, at noon, in these burning climates! The beasts of the forests retire to the thickets265; the birds hide themselves beneath the foliage266 of the trees, or in the crevices267 of the rocks. Yet, amidst this apparent silence, when we lend an attentive ear to the most feeble sounds transmitted through the air, we hear a dull vibration269, a continual murmur270, a hum of insects, filling, if we may use the expression, all the lower strata of the air. Nothing is better fitted to make man feel the extent and power of organic life. Myriads271 of insects creep upon the soil, and flutter round the plants parched by the heat of the sun. A confused noise issues from every bush, from the decayed trunks of trees, from the clefts of the rocks, and from the ground undermined by lizards, millepedes, and cecilias. These are so many voices proclaiming to us that all nature breathes; and that, under a thousand different forms, life is diffused272 throughout the cracked and dusty soil, as well as in the bosom273 of the waters, and in the air that circulates around us.
[* Aubletia tiburba.]
[* Allamanda salicifolia.]
The sensations which I here recall to mind are not unknown to those who, without having advanced to the equator, have visited Italy, Spain, or Egypt. That contrast of motion and silence, that aspect of nature at once calm and animated, strikes the imagination of the traveller when he enters the basin of the Mediterranean, within the zone of olives, dwarf274 palms, and date-trees.
We passed the night on the eastern bank of the Orinoco, at the foot of a granitic hill. Near this desert spot was formerly seated the Mission of San Regis. We could have wished to find a spring in the Baraguan, for the water of the river had a smell of musk275, and a sweetish taste extremely disagreeable. In the Orinoco, as well as in the Apure, we are struck with the difference observable in the various parts of the river near the most barren shore. The water is sometimes very drinkable, and sometimes seems to be loaded with a slimy matter. “It is the bark (meaning the coriaceous covering) of the putrefied cayman that is the cause,” say the natives. “The more aged228 the cayman, the more bitter is his bark.” I have no doubt that the carcasses of these large reptiles276, those of the manatees277, which weigh five hundred pounds, and the presence of the porpoises278 (toninas) with their mucilaginous skin, may contaminate the water, especially in the creeks279, where the river has little velocity. Yet the spots where we found the most fetid water, were not always those where dead animals were accumulated on the beach. When, in such burning climates, where we are constantly tormented280 by thirst, we are reduced to drink the water of a river at the temperature of 27 or 28°, we cannot help wishing at least that water so hot, and so loaded with sand, should be free from smell.
On the 8th of April we passed the mouths of the Suapure or Sivapuri, and the Caripo, on the east, and the outlet281 of the Sinaruco on the west. This last river is, next to the Rio Arauca, the most considerable between the Apure and the Meta. The Suapure, full of little cascades282, is celebrated among the Indians for the quantity of wild honey obtained from the forests in its neighbourhood. The melipones there suspend their enormous hives to the branches of trees. Father Gili, in 1766, made an excursion on the Suapure, and on the Turiva, which falls into it. He there found tribes of the nation of Areverians. We passed the night a little below the island Macapina.
Early on the following morning we arrived at the beach of Pararuma, where we found an encampment of Indians similar to that we had seen at the Boca de la Tortuga. They had assembled to search the sands, for collecting the turtles’ eggs, and extracting the oil; but they had unfortunately made a mistake of several days. The young turtles had come out of their shells before the Indians had formed their camp; and consequently the crocodiles and the garzes, a species of large white herons, availed themselves of the delay. These animals, alike fond of the flesh of the young turtles, devour an innumerable quantity. They fish during the night, for the tortuguillos do not come out of the earth to gain the neighbouring river till after the evening twilight283. The zamuro vultures are too indolent to hunt after sunset. They stalk along the shores in the daytime, and alight in the midst of the Indian encampment to steal provisions; but they often find no other means of satisfying their voracity284 than by attacking young crocodiles of seven or eight inches long, either on land or in water of little depth. It is curious to see the address with which these little animals defend themselves for a time against the vultures. As soon as they perceive the enemy, they raise themselves on their fore paws, bend their backs, and lift up their heads, opening their wide jaws285. They turn continually, though slowly, toward their assailant to show him their teeth, which, even when the animal has but recently issued from the egg, are very long and sharp. Often while the attention of a young crocodile is wholly engaged by one of the zamuros, another seizes the favourable opportunity for an unforeseen attack. He pounces286 on the crocodile, grasps him by the neck, and bears him off to the higher regions of the air. We had an opportunity of observing this manoeuvre during several mornings, at Mompex, on the banks of the Magdalena, where we had collected more than forty very young crocodiles, in a spacious287 court surrounded by a wall.
We found among the Indians assembled at Pararuma some white men, who had come from Angostura to purchase the tortoise-butter. After having wearied us for a long time with their complaints of the bad harvest, and the mischief288 done by the tigers among the turtles, at the time of laying their eggs, they conducted us beneath an ajoupa, that rose in the centre of the Indian camp. We here found the missionary-monks of Carichana and the Cataracts seated on the ground, playing at cards, and smoking tobacco in long pipes. Their ample blue garments, their shaven heads, and their long beards, might have led us to mistake them for natives of the East. These poor priests received us in the kindest manner, giving us every information necessary for the continuation of our voyage. They had suffered from tertian fever for some months; and their pale and emaciated289 aspect easily convinced us that the countries we were about to visit were not without danger to the health of travellers.
The Indian pilot, who had brought us from San Fernando de Apure as far as the shore of Pararuma, was unacquainted with the passage of the rapids* of the Orinoco, and would not undertake to conduct our bark any farther. We were obliged to conform to his will. Happily for us, the missionary of Carichana consented to sell us a fine canoe at a very moderate price: and Father Bernardo Zea, missionary of the Atures and Maypures near the great cataracts, offered, though still unwell, to accompany us as far as the frontiers of Brazil. The number of natives who can assist in guiding boats through the Raudales is so inconsiderable that, but for the presence of the monk, we should have risked spending whole weeks in these humid and unhealthy regions. On the banks of the Orinoco, the forests of the Rio Negro are considered as delicious spots. The air is indeed cooler and more healthful. The river is free from crocodiles; one may bathe without apprehension290, and by night as well as by day there is less torment230 from the sting of insects than on the Orinoco. Father Zea hoped to reestablish his health by visiting the Missions of Rio Negro. He talked of those places with that enthusiasm which is felt in all the colonies of South America for everything far off.
[* Little cascades, chorros raudalitos.]
The assemblage of Indians at Pararuma again excited in us that interest, which everywhere attaches man in a cultivated state to the study of man in a savage condition, and the successive development of his intellectual faculties291. How difficult to recognize in this infancy292 of society, in this assemblage of dull, silent, inanimate Indians, the primitive character of our species! Human nature does not here manifest those features of artless simplicity, of which poets in every language have drawn293 such enchanting294 pictures. The savage of the Orinoco appeared to us to be as hideous295 as the savage of the Mississippi, described by that philosophical traveller Volney, who so well knew how to paint man in different climates. We are eager to persuade ourselves that these natives, crouching296 before the fire, or seated on large turtle-shells, their bodies covered with earth and grease, their eyes stupidly fixed297 for whole hours on the beverage298 they are preparing, far from being the primitive type of our species, are a degenerate299 race, the feeble remains of nations who, after having been long dispersed in the forests, are replunged into barbarism.
Red paint being in some sort the only clothing of the Indians, two kinds may be distinguished among them, according as they are more or less affluent300. The common decoration of the Caribs, the Ottomacs, and the Jaruros, is onoto,* called by the Spaniards achote, and by the planters of Cayenne, rocou. It is the colouring matter extracted from the pulp152 of the Bixa orellana.* The Indian women prepare the anato by throwing the seeds of the plant into a tub filled with water. They beat this water for an hour, and then leave it to deposit the colouring fecula, which is of an intense brick-red. After having separated the water, they take out the fecula, dry it between their hands, knead it with oil of turtles’ eggs, and form it into round cakes of three or four ounces weight. When turtle oil is wanting, some tribes mix with the anato the fat of the crocodile.
[* Properly anoto. This word belongs to the Tamanac Indians. The Maypures call it majepa. The Spanish missionaries say onotarse, to rub the skin with anato.]
[* The word bixa, adopted by botanists301, is derived from the ancient language of Haiti (the island of St. Domingo). Rocou, the term commonly used by the French, is derived from the Brazilian word, urucu.]
Another pigment150, much more valuable, is extracted from a plant of the family of the bignoniae, which M. Bonpland has made known by the name of Bignonia chica. It climbs up and clings to the tallest trees by the aid of tendrils. Its bilabiate flowers are an inch long, of a fine violet colour, and disposed by twos or threes. The bipinnate leaves become reddish in drying. The fruit is a pod, filled with winged seeds, and is two feet long. This plant grows spontaneously, and in great abundance, near Maypures; and in going up the Orinoco, beyond the mouth of the Guaviare, from Santa Barbara to the lofty mountain of Duida, particularly near Esmeralda. We also found it on the banks of the Cassiquiare. The red pigment of chica is not obtained from the fruit, like the onoto, but from the leaves macerated in water. The colouring matter separates in the form of a light powder. It is collected, without being mixed with turtle-oil, into little lumps eight or nine inches long, and from two to three high, rounded at the edges. These lumps, when heated, emit an agreeable smell of benzoin. When the chica is subjected to distillation302, it yields no sensible traces of ammonia. It is not, like indigo303, a substance combined with azote. It dissolves slightly in sulphuric and muriatic acids, and even in alkalis. Ground with oil, the chica furnishes a red colour that has a tint of lake. Applied304 to wool, it might be confounded with madder-red. There is no doubt but that the chica, unknown in Europe before our travels, may be employed usefully in the arts. The nations on the Orinoco, by whom this pigment is best prepared, are the Salivas, the Guipunaves,* the Caveres, and the Piraoas. The processes of infusion305 and maceration306 are in general very common among all the nations on the Orinoco. Thus the Maypures carry on a trade of barter307 with the little loaves of puruma, which is a vegetable fecula, dried in the manner of indigo, and yielding a very permanent yellow colour. The chemistry of the savage is reduced to the preparation of pigments, that of poisons, and the dulcification of the amylaceous roots, which the aroides and the euphorbiaceous plants afford.
[* Or Guaypunaves; they call themselves Uipunavi.]
Most of the missionaries of the Upper and Lower Orinoco permit the Indians of their Missions to paint their skins. It is painful to add, that some of them speculate on this barbarous practice of the natives. In their huts, pompously308 called conventos,* I have often seen stores of chica, which they sold as high as four francs the cake. To form a just idea of the extravagance of the decoration of these naked Indians, I must observe, that a man of large stature gains with difficulty enough by the labour of a fortnight, to procure in exchange the chica necessary to paint himself red. Thus as we say, in temperate climates, of a poor man, “he has not enough to clothe himself,” you hear the Indians of the Orinoco say, “that man is so poor, that he has not enough to paint half his body.” The little trade in chica is carried on chiefly with the tribes of the Lower Orinoco, whose country does not produce the plant which furnishes this much-valued substance. The Caribs and the Ottomacs paint only the head and the hair with chica, but the Salives possess this pigment in sufficient abundance to cover their whole bodies. When the missionaries send on their own account small cargoes310 of cacao, tobacco, and chiquichiqui* from the Rio Negro to Angostura, they always add some cakes of chica, as being articles of merchandise in great request.
[* In the Missions, the priest’s house bears the name of the convent.]
[* Ropes made with the petioles of a palm-tree with pinnate leaves.]
The custom of painting is not equally ancient among all the tribes of the Orinoco. It has increased since the time when the powerful nation of the Caribs made frequent incursions into those countries. The victors and the vanquished311 were alike naked; and to please the conqueror112 it was necessary to paint like him, and to assume his colour. The influence of the Caribs has now ceased, and they remain circumscribed312 between the rivers Carony, Cuyuni, and Paraguamuzi; but the Caribbean fashion of painting the whole body is still preserved. The custom has survived the conquest.
Does the use of the anato and chica derive68 its origin from the desire of pleasing, and the taste for ornament80, so common among the most savage nations? or must we suppose it to be founded on the observation, that these colouring and oily matters with which the skin is plastered, preserve it from the sting of the mosquitos? I have often heard this question discussed in Europe; but in the Missions of the Orinoco, and wherever, within the tropics, the air is filled with venomous insects, the inquiry313 would appear absurd. The Carib and the Salive, who are painted red, are not less cruelly tormented by the mosquitos and the zancudos, than the Indians whose bodies are plastered with no colour. The sting of the insect causes no swelling in either; and scarcely ever produces those little pustules which occasion such smarting and itching314 to Europeans recently arrived. But the native and the White suffer equally from the sting, till the insect has withdrawn315 its sucker from the skin. After a thousand useless essays, M. Bonpland and myself tried the expedient241 of rubbing our hands and arms with the fat of the crocodile, and the oil of turtle-eggs, but we never felt the least relief, and were stung as before. I know that the Laplanders boast of oil and fat as the most useful preservatives316; but the insects of Scandinavia are not of the same species as those of the Orinoco. The smoke of tobacco drives away our gnats317, while it is employed in vain against the zancudos. If the application of fat and astringent318* substances preserved the inhabitants of these countries from the torment of insects, as Father Gumilla alleges319, why has not the custom of painting the skin become general on these shores? Why do so many naked natives paint only the face, though living in the neighbourhood of those who paint the whole body?*
[* The pulp of the anato, and even the chica, are astringent and slightly purgative320.]
[* The Caribs, the Salives, the Tamanacs, and the Maypures.]
We are struck with the observation, that the Indians of the Orinoco, like the natives of North America, prefer the substances that yield a red colour to every other. Is this predilection321 founded on the facility with which the savage procures322 ochreous earths, or the colouring fecula of anato and of chica? I doubt this much. Indigo grows wild in a great part of equinoctial America. This plant, like so many other leguminous plants, would have furnished the natives abundantly with pigments to colour themselves blue like the ancient Britons.* Yet we see no American tribe painted with indigo. It appears to me probable, as I have already hinted above, that the preference given by the Americans to the red colour is generally founded on the tendency which nations feel to attribute the idea of beauty to whatever characterises their national physiognomy. Men whose skin is naturally of a brownish red, love a red colour. If they be born with a forehead little raised, and the head flat, they endeavour to depress the foreheads of their children. If they be distinguished from other nations by a thin beard, they try to eradicate323 the few hairs that nature has given them. They think themselves embellished in proportion as they heighten the characteristic marks of their race, or of their national conformation.
[* The half-clad nations of the temperate zone often paint their skin of the same colour as that with which their clothes are dyed.]
We were surprised to see, that, in the camp of Pararuma, the women far advanced in years were more occupied with their ornaments than the youngest women. We saw an Indian female of the nation of the Ottomacs employing two of her daughters in the operation of rubbing her hair with the oil of turtles’ eggs, and painting her back with anato and caruto. The ornament consisted of a sort of lattice-work formed of black lines crossing each other on a red ground. Each little square had a black dot in the centre. It was a work of incredible patience. We returned from a very long herborization, and the painting was not half finished. This research of ornament seems the more singular when we reflect that the figures and marks are not produced by the process of tattooing324, but that paintings executed with so much care are effaced,* if the Indian exposes himself imprudently to a heavy shower. There are some nations who paint only to celebrate festivals; others are covered with colour during the whole year: and the latter consider the use of anato as so indispensable, that both men and women would perhaps be less ashamed to present themselves without a guayaco* than destitute of paint. These guayucos of the Orinoco are partly bark of trees, and partly cotton-cloth. Those of the men are broader than those worn by the women, who, the missionaries say, have in general a less lively feeling of modesty325. A similar observation was made by Christopher Columbus. May we not attribute this in difference, this want of delicacy in women belonging to nations of which the manners are not much depraved, to that rude state of slavery to which the sex is reduced in South America by male injustice326 and tyranny?
[* The black and caustic327 pigment of the caruto (Genipa americana) however, resists a long time the action of water, as we found with regret, having one day, in sport with the Indians, caused our faces to be marked with spots and strokes of caruto. When we returned to Angostura, in the midst of Europeans, these marks were still visible.]
[* A word of the Caribbean language. The perizoma of the Indians of the Orinoco is rather a band than an apron328.]
When we speak in Europe of a native of Guiana, we figure to ourselves a man whose head and waist are decorated with the fine feathers of the macaw, the toucan329, and the humming-bird. Our painters and sculptors330 have long since regarded these ornaments as the characteristic marks of an American. We were surprised at not finding in the Chayma Missions, in the encampments of Uruana and of Pararuma (I might almost say on all the shores of the Orinoco and the Cassiquiare) those fine plumes331, those feathered aprons332, which are so often brought by travellers from Cayenne and Demerara. These tribes for the most part, even those whose intellectual faculties are most expanded, who cultivate alimentary333 plants, and know how to weave cotton, are altogether as naked,* as poor, and as destitute of ornaments as the natives of New Holland. The excessive heat of the air, the profuse334 perspiration335 in which the body is bathed at every hour of the day and a great part of the night, render the use of clothes insupportable. Their objects of ornament, and particularly their plumes of feathers, are reserved for dances and solemn festivals. The plumes worn by the Guipunaves* are the most celebrated; being composed of the fine feathers of manakins and parrots.
[* For instance, the Macos and the Piraoas. The Caribs must be excepted, whose perizoma is a cotton cloth, so broad that it might cover the shoulders.]
[* These came originally from the banks of the Inirida, one of the rivers that fall into the Guaviare.]
The Indians are not always satisfied with one colour uniformly spread; they sometimes imitate, in the most whimsical manner, in painting their skin, the form of European garments. We saw some at Pararuma, who were painted with blue jackets and black buttons. The missionaries related to us that the Guaynaves of the Rio Caura are accustomed to stain themselves red with anato, and to make broad transverse stripes on the body, on which they stick spangles of silvery mica. Seen at a distance, these naked men appear to be dressed in laced clothes. If painted nations had been examined with the same attention as those who are clothed, it would have been perceived that the most fertile imagination, and the most mutable caprice, have created the fashions of painting, as well as those of garments.
Painting and tattooing are not restrained, in either the New or the Old World, to one race or one zone only. These ornaments are most common among the Malays and American races; but in the time of the Romans they were also employed by the white race in the north of Europe. As the most picturesque garments and modes of dress are found in the Grecian Archipelago and western Asia, so the type of beauty in painting and tattooing is displayed by the islanders of the Pacific. Some clothed nations still paint their hands, their nails, and their faces. It would seem that painting is then confined to those parts of the body that remain uncovered; and while rouge336, which recalls to mind the savage state of man, is disappearing by degrees in Europe, in some towns of the province of Peru the ladies think they embellish their delicate skins by covering them with colouring vegetable matter, starch337, white-of-egg, and flour. After having lived a long time among men painted with anato and chica, we are singularly struck with these remains of ancient barbarism retained amidst all the usages of civilization.
The encampment at Pararuma afforded us an opportunity of examining several animals in their natural state, which, till then, we had seen only in the collections of Europe. These little animals form a branch of commerce for the missionaries. They exchange tobacco, the resin338 called mani, the pigment of chica, gallitos (rock-manakins), orange monkeys, capuchin monkeys, and other species of monkeys in great request on the coast, for cloth, nails, hatchets339, fishhooks, and pins. The productions of the Orinoco are bought at a low price from the Indians, who live in dependence341 on the monks; and these same Indians purchase fishing and gardening implements342 from the monks at a very high price, with the money they have gained at the egg-harvest. We ourselves bought several animals, which we kept with us throughout the rest of our passage on the river, and studied their manners.
The gallitos, or rock-manakins, are sold at Pararuma in pretty little cages made of the footstalks of palm-leaves. These birds are infinitely343 more rare on the banks of the Orinoco, and in the north and west of equinoctial America, than in French Guiana. They have hitherto been found only near the Mission of Encaramada, and in the Raudales or cataracts of Maypures. I say expressly IN the cataracts, because the gallitos choose for their habitual22 dwelling344 the hollows of the little granitic rocks that cross the Orinoco and form such numerous cascades. We sometimes saw them appear in the morning in the midst of the foam345 of the river, calling their females, and fighting in the manner of our cocks, folding the double moveable crest346 that decorates the crown of the head. As the Indians very rarely take the full-grown gallitos, and those males only are valued in Europe, which from the third year have beautiful saffron-coloured plumage, purchasers should be on their guard not to confound young females with young males. Both the male and female gallitos are of an olive-brown; but the pollo, or young male, is distinguishable at the earliest age, by its size and its yellow feet. After the third year the plumage of the males assumes a beautiful saffron tint; but the female remains always of a dull dusky brown colour, with yellow only on the wing-coverts and tips of the wings.* To preserve in our collections the fine tint of the plumage of a male and full-grown rock-manakin, it must not be exposed to the light. This tint grows pale more easy than in the other genera of the passerine order. The young males, as in most other birds, have the plumage or livery of their mother. I am surprised to see that so skilful192 a naturalist as Le Vaillant can doubt whether the females always remain of a dusky olive tint.* The Indians of the Raudales all assured me that they had never seen a saffron-coloured female.
[* Especially the part which ornithologists call the carpus.]
[* Oiseaux de Paradis volume 2 page 61.]
Among the monkeys, brought by the Indians to the fair of Pararuma, we distinguished several varieties of the sai,* belonging to the little groups of creeping monkeys called matchi in the Spanish colonies; marimondes*, or ateles with a red belly347; titis, and viuditas. The last two species particularly attracted our attention, and we purchased them to send to Europe.
[* Simia capucina the capuchin monkey.]
[* Simia belzebuth.]
The titi of the Orinoco (Simia sciurea), well-known in our collections, is called bititeni by the Maypure Indians. It is very common on the south of the cataracts. Its face is white; and a little spot of bluish-black covers the mouth and the point of the nose. The titis of the most elegant form, and the most beautiful colour (with hair of a golden yellow), come from the banks of the Cassiquiare. Those that are taken on the shores of the Guaviare are large and difficult to tame. No other monkey has so much the physiognomy of a child as the titi; there is the same expression of innocence348, the same playful smile, the same rapidity in the transition from joy to sorrow. Its large eyes are instantly filled with tears, when it is seized with fear. It is extremely fond of insects, particularly of spiders. The sagacity of this little animal is so great, that one of those we brought in our boat to Angostura distinguished perfectly the different plates annexed349 to Cuvier’s Tableau350 elementaire d’Histoire naturelle. The engravings of this work are not coloured; yet the titi advanced rapidly its little hand in the hope of catching351 a grasshopper352 or a wasp353, every time that we showed it the eleventh plate, on which these insects are represented. It remained perfectly indifferent when it was shown engravings of skeletons or heads of mammiferous animals.* When several of these little monkeys, shut up in the same cage, are exposed to the rain, and the habitual temperature of the air sinks suddenly two or three degrees, they twist their tail (which, however, is not prehensile) round their neck, and intertwine their arms and legs to warm one another. The Indian hunters told us, that in the forests they often met groups of ten or twelve of these animals, whilst others sent forth354 lamentable355 cries, because they wished to enter amid the group to find warmth and shelter. By shooting arrows dipped in weak poison at one of these groups, a great number of young monkeys are taken alive at once. The titi in falling remains clinging to its mother, and if it be not wounded by the fall, it does not quit the shoulder or the neck of the dead animal. Most of those that are found alive in the huts of the Indians have been thus taken from the dead bodies of their mothers. Those that are full grown, when cured of a slight wound, commonly die before they can accustom147 themselves to a domestic state. The titis are in general delicate and timid little animals. It is very difficult to convey them from the Missions of the Orinoco to the coast of Caracas, or of Cumana. They become melancholy and dejected in proportion as they quit the region of the forests, and enter the Llanos. This change cannot be attributed to the slight elevation of the temperature; it seems rather to depend on a greater intensity356 of light, a less degree of humidity, and some chemical property of the air of the coast.
[* I may observe, that I have never heard of an instance in which a picture, representing, in the greatest perfection, hares or deer of their natural size, has made the least impression even on sporting dogs, the intelligence of which appears the most improved. Is there any authenticated357 instance of a dog having recognized a full length picture of his master? In all these cases, the sight is not assisted by the smell.]
The saimiri, or titi of the Orinoco, the atele, the sajou, and other quadrumanous animals long known in Europe, form a striking contrast, both in their gait and habits, with the macavahu, called by the missionaries viudita, or widow in mourning. The hair of this little animal is soft, glossy358, and of a fine black. Its face is covered with a mask of a square form and a whitish colour tinged359 with blue. This mask contains the eyes, nose, and mouth. The ears have a rim97: they are small, very pretty, and almost bare. The neck of the widow presents in front a white band, an inch broad, and forming a semicircle. The feet, or rather the hinder hands, are black like the rest of the body; but the fore paws are white without, and of a glossy black within. In these marks, or white spots, the missionaries think they recognize the veil, the neckerchief, and the gloves of a widow in mourning. The character of this little monkey, which sits up on its hinder extremities360 only when eating, is but little indicated in its appearance. It has a wild and timid air; it often refuses the food offered to it, even when tormented by a ravenous361 appetite. It has little inclination for the society of other monkeys. The sight of the smallest saimiri puts it to flight. Its eye denotes great vivacity362. We have seen it remain whole hours motionless without sleeping, and attentive to everything that was passing around. But this wildness and timidity are merely apparent. The viudita, when alone, and left to itself, becomes furious at the sight of a bird. It then climbs and runs with astonishing rapidity; darts363 upon its prey364 like a cat; and kills whatever it can seize. This rare and delicate monkey is found on the right bank of the Orinoco, in the granite mountains which rise behind the Mission of Santa Barbara. It inhabits also the banks of the Guaviare, near San Fernando de Atabapo.
The viudita accompanied us on our whole voyage on the Cassiquiare and the Rio Negro, passing the cataracts twice. In studying the manners of animals, it is a great advantage to observe them during several months in the open air, and not in houses, where they lose all their natural vivacity.
The new canoe intended for us was, like all Indian boats, a trunk of a tree hollowed out partly by the hatchet340 and partly by fire. It was forty feet long, and three broad. Three persons could not sit in it side by side. These canoes are so crank, and they require, from their instability, a cargo309 so equally distributed, that when you want to rise for an instant, you must warn the rowers to lean to the opposite side. Without this precaution the water would necessarily enter the side pressed down. It is difficult to form an idea of the inconveniences that are suffered in such wretched vessels.
The missionary from the cataracts made the preparations for our voyage with greater energy than we wished. Lest there might not be a sufficient number of the Maco and Guahibe Indians, who are acquainted with the labyrinth365 of small channels and cascades of which the Raudales or cataracts are composed, two Indians were, during the night, placed in the cepo — a sort of stocks in which they were made to lie with their legs between two pieces of wood, notched366 and fastened together by a chain with a padlock. Early in the morning we were awakened by the cries of a young man, mercilessly beaten with a whip of manatee skin. His name was Zerepe, a very intelligent young Indian, who proved highly useful to us in the sequel, but who now refused to accompany us. He was born in the Mission of Atures; but his father was a Maco, and his mother a native of the nation of the Maypures. He had returned to the woods (al monte), and having lived some years with the unsubdued Indians, he had thus acquired the knowledge of several languages, and the missionary employed him as an interpreter. We obtained with difficulty the pardon of this young man. “Without these acts of severity,” we were told, “you would want for everything. The Indians of the Raudales and the Upper Orinoco are a stronger and more laborious368 race than the inhabitants of the Lower Orinoco. They know that they are much sought after at Angostura. If left to their own will, they would all go down the river to sell their productions, and live in full liberty among the whites. The Missions would be totally deserted.”
These reasons, I confess, appeared to me more specious369 than sound. Man, in order to enjoy the advantages of a social state, must no doubt sacrifice a part of his natural rights, and his original independence; but, if the sacrifice imposed on him be not compensated370 by the benefits of civilization, the savage, wise in his simplicity, retains the wish of returning to the forests that gave him birth. It is because the Indian of the woods is treated like a person in a state of villanage in the greater part of the Missions, because he enjoys not the fruit of his labours, that the Christian142 establishments on the Orinoco remain deserts. A government founded on the ruins of the liberty of the natives extinguishes the intellectual faculties, or stops their progress.
To say that the savage, like the child, can be governed only by force, is merely to establish false analogies. The Indians of the Orinoco have something infantine in the expression of their joy, and the quick succession of their emotions, but they are not great children; they are as little so as the poor labourers in the east of Europe, whom the barbarism of our feudal371 institutions has held in the rudest state. To consider the employment of force as the first and sole means of the civilization of the savage, is a principle as far from being true in the education of nations as in the education of youth. Whatever may be the state of weakness or degradation372 in our species, no faculty373 is entirely annihilated374. The human understanding exhibits only different degrees of strength and development. The savage, like the child, compares the present with the past; he directs his actions, not according to blind instinct, but motives375 of interest. Reason can everywhere enlighten reason; and its progress will be retarded376 in proportion as the men who are called upon to bring up youth, or govern nations, substitute constraint377 and force for that moral influence which can alone unfold the rising faculties, calm the irritated passions, and give stability to social order.
We could not set sail before ten on the morning of the 10th. To gain something in breadth in our new canoe, a sort of lattice-work had been constructed on the stern with branches of trees, that extended on each side beyond the gunwale. Unfortunately, the toldo or roof of leaves, that covered this lattice-work, was so low that we were obliged to lie down, without seeing anything, or, if seated, to sit nearly double. The necessity of carrying the canoe across the rapids, and even from one river to another; and the fear of giving too much hold to the wind, by making the toldo higher, render this construction necessary for vessels that go up towards the Rio Negro. The toldo was intended to cover four persons, lying on the deck or lattice-work of brush-wood; but our legs reached far beyond it, and when it rained half our bodies were wet. Our couches consisted of ox-hides or tiger-skins, spread upon branches of trees, which were painfully felt through so thin a covering. The fore part of the boat was filled with Indian rowers, furnished with paddles, three feet long, in the form of spoons. They were all naked, seated two by two, and they kept time in rowing with a surprising uniformity, singing songs of a sad and monotonous378 character. The small cages containing our birds and our monkeys, the number of which augmented as we advanced, were hung some to the toldo and others to the bow of the boat. This was our travelling menagerie. Notwithstanding the frequent losses occasioned by accidents, and above all by the fatal effects of exposure to the sun, we had fourteen of these little animals alive at our return from the Cassiquiare. Naturalists379, who wish to collect and bring living animals to Europe, might cause boats to be constructed expressly for this purpose at Angostura, or at Grand Para, the two capitals situated on the banks of the Orinoco and the Amazon, the fore-deck of which boats might be fitted up with two rows of cages sheltered from the rays of the sun. Every night, when we established our watch, our collection of animals and our instruments occupied the centre; around these were placed first our hammocks, then the hammocks of the Indians; and on the outside were the fires which are thought indispensable against the attacks of the jaguar. About sunrise the monkeys in our cages answered the cries of the monkeys of the forest. These communications between animals of the same species sympathizing with one another, though unseen, one party enjoying that liberty which the other regrets, have something melancholy and affecting.
In a canoe not three feet wide, and so incumbered, there remained no other place for the dried plants, trunks, a sextant, a dipping-needle, and the meteorological instruments, than the space below the lattice-work of branches, on which we were compelled to remain stretched the greater part of the day. If we wished to take the least object out of a trunk, or to use an instrument, it was necessary to row ashore380 and land. To these inconveniences were joined the torment of the mosquitos which swarmed381 under the toldo, and the heat radiated from the leaves of the palm-trees, the upper surface of which was continually exposed to the solar rays. We attempted every instant, but always without success, to amend383 our situation. While one of us hid himself under a sheet to ward20 off the insects, the other insisted on having green wood lighted beneath the toldo, in the hope of driving away the mosquitos by the smoke. The painful sensations of the eyes, and the increase of heat, already stifling384, rendered both these contrivances alike impracticable. With some gaiety of temper, with feelings of mutual385 good-will, and with a vivid taste for the majestic grandeur386 of these vast valleys of rivers, travellers easily support evils that become habitual.
Our Indians showed us, on the right bank of the river, the place which was formerly the site of the Mission of Pararuma, founded by the Jesuits about the year 1733. The mortality occasioned by the smallpox387 among the Salive Indians was the principal cause of the dissolution of the mission. The few inhabitants who survived this cruel epidemic388, removed to the village of Carichana. It was at Pararuma, that, according to the testimony389 of Father Roman, hail was seen to fall during a great storm, about the middle of the last century. This is almost the only instance of it I know in a plain that is nearly on a level with the sea; for hail falls generally, between the tropics, only at three hundred toises of elevation. If it form at an equal height over plains and table-lands, we must suppose that it melts as it falls, in passing through the lowest strata of the atmosphere, the mean temperature of which is from 27.5 to 24° of the centigrade thermometer. I acknowledge it is very difficult to explain, in the present state of meteorology, why it hails at Philadelphia, at Rome, and at Montpelier, during the hottest months, the mean temperature of which attains390 25 or 26°; while the same phenomenon is not observed at Cumana, at La Guayra, and in general, in the equatorial plains. In the United States, and in the south of Europe, the heat of the plains (from 40 to 43° latitude95) is nearly the same as within the tropics; and according to my researches the decrement of caloric equally varies but little. If then the absence of hail within the torrid zone, at the level of the sea, be produced by the melting of the hailstones in crossing the lower strata of the air, we must suppose that these hail-stones, at the moment of their formation, are larger in the temperate than in the torrid zone. We yet know so little of the conditions under which water congeals392 in a stormy cloud in our climates, that we cannot judge whether the same conditions be fulfilled on the equator above the plains. The clouds in which we hear the rattling393 of the hailstones against one another before they fall, and which move horizontally, have always appeared to me of little elevation; and at these small heights we may conceive that extraordinary refrigerations are caused by the dilatation of the ascending air, of which the capacity for caloric augments394; by currents of cold air coming from a higher latitude, and above all, according to M. Gay Lussac, by the radiation from the upper surface of the clouds. I shall have occasion to return to this subject when speaking of the different forms under which hail and hoar-frost appear on the Andes, at two thousand and two thousand six hundred toises of height; and when examining the question whether we may consider the stratum of clouds that envelops395 the mountains as a horizontal continuation of the stratum which we see immediately above us in the plains.
The Orinoco, full of islands, begins to divide itself into several branches, of which the most western remain dry during the months of January and February. The total breadth of the river exceeds two thousand five hundred or three thousand toises. We perceived to the East, opposite the island of Javanavo, the mouth of the Cano Aujacoa. Between this Cano and the Rio Paruasi or Paruati, the country becomes more and more woody. A solitary396 rock, of extremely picturesque aspect, rises in the midst of a forest of palm-trees, not far from the Orinoco. It is a pillar of granite, a prismatic mass, the bare and steep sides of which attain391 nearly two hundred feet in height. Its point, which overtops the highest trees of the forest, is terminated by a shelf of rock with a horizontal and smooth surface. Other trees crown this summit, which the missionaries call the peak, or Mogote de Cocuyza. This monument of nature, in its simple grandeur recalls to mind the Cyclopean remains of antiquity397. Its strongly-marked outlines, and the group of trees and shrubs398 by which it is crowned, stand out from the azure399 of the sky. It seems a forest rising above a forest.
Further on, near the mouth of the Paruasi, the Orinoco narrows. On the east is perceived a mountain with a bare top, projecting like a promontory. It is nearly three hundred feet high, and served as a fortress400 for the Jesuits. They had constructed there a small fort, with three batteries of cannon401, and it was constantly occupied by a military detachment. We saw the cannon dismounted, and half-buried in the sand, at Carichana and at Atures. This fort of the Jesuits has been destroyed since the dissolution of their society; but the place is still called El Castillo. I find it set down, in a manuscript map, lately completed at Caracas by a member of the secular402 clergy403, under the denomination252 of Trinchera del despotismo monacal.*
[* Intrenchmnent of monachal despotism.]
The garrison404 which the Jesuits maintained on this rock, was not intended merely to protect the Missions against the incursions of the Caribs: it was employed also in an offensive war, or, as they say here, in the conquest of souls (conquista de almas). The soldiers, excited by the allurement405 of gain, made military incursions (entradas) into the lands of the independent Indians. They killed all those who dared to make any resistance, burnt their huts, destroyed their plantations, and carried away the women, children, and old men, as prisoners. These prisoners were divided among the Missions of the Meta, the Rio Negro, and the Upper Orinoco. The most distant places were chosen, that they might not be tempted382 to return to their native country. This violent manner of conquering souls, though prohibited by the Spanish laws, was tolerated by the civil governors, and vaunted by the superiors of the society, as beneficial to religion, and the aggrandizement406 of the Missions. “The voice of the Gospel is heard only,” said a Jesuit of the Orinoco, very candidly407, in the Cartas Edifiantes, “where the Indians have heard also the sound of fire-arms (el eco de la polvora). Mildness is a very slow measure. By chastising408 the natives, we facilitate their conversion409.” These principles, which degrade humanity, were certainly not common to all the members of a society which, in the New World, and wherever education has remained exclusively in the hands of monks, has rendered service to letters and civilization. But the entradas, the spiritual conquests with the assistance of bayonets, was an inherent vice268 in a system, that tended to the rapid aggrandizement of the Missions. It is pleasing to find that the same system is not followed by the Franciscan, Dominican, and Augustinian monks who now govern a vast portion of South America; and who, by the mildness or harshness of their manners, exert a powerful influence over the fate of so many thousands of natives. Military incursions are almost entirely abolished; and when they do take place, they are disavowed by the superiors of the orders. We will not decide at present, whether this amelioration of the monachal system be owing to want of activity and cold indolence; or whether it must be attributed, as we would wish to believe, to the progress of knowledge, and to feelings more elevated, and more conformable to the true spirit of Christianity.
Beyond the mouth of the Rio Paruasi, the Orinoco again narrows. Full of little islands and masses of granite rock, it presents rapids, or small cascades (remolinos), which at first sight may alarm the traveller by the continual eddies410 of the water, but which at no season of the year are dangerous for boats. A range of shoals, that crosses almost the whole river, bears the name of the Raudal de Marimara. We passed it without difficulty by a narrow channel, in which the water seems to boil up as it issues out impetuously* below the Piedra de Marimara, a compact mass of granite eighty feet high, and three hundred feet in circumference411, without fissures412, or any trace of stratification. The river penetrates far into the land, and forms spacious bays in the rocks. One of these bays, inclosed between two promontories413 destitute of vegetation, is called the Port of Carichana.* The spot has a very wild aspect. In the evening the rocky coasts project their vast shadows over the surface of the river. The waters appear black from reflecting the image of these granitic masses, which, in the colour of their external surface, sometimes resemble coal, and sometimes lead-ore. We passed the night in the small village of Carichana, where we were received at the priest’s house, or convento. It was nearly a fortnight since we had slept under a roof.
[* These places are called chorreros in the Spanish colonies.]
[* Piedra y puerto de Carichana.]
To avoid the effects of the inundations, often so fatal to health, the Mission of Carichana has been established at three quarters of a league from the river. The Indians in this Mission are of the nation of the Salives, and they have a disagreeable and nasal pronunciation. Their language, of which the Jesuit Anisson has composed a grammar still in manuscript, is, with the Caribbean, the Tamanac, the Maypure, the Ottomac, the Guahive, and the Jaruro, one of the mother-tongues most general on the Orinoco. Father Gili thinks that the Ature, the Piraoa, and the Quaqua or Mapoye, are only dialects of the Salive. My journey was much too rapid to enable me to judge of the accuracy of this opinion; but we shall soon see that, in the village of Ature, celebrated on account of its situation near the great cataracts, neither the Salive nor the Ature is now spoken, but the language of the Maypures. In the Salive of Carichana, man is called cocco; woman, gnacu; water, cagua; fire, eyussa; the earth, seke; the sky, mumeseke (earth on high); the jaguar, impii; the crocodile, cuipoo; maize414, giomu; the plantain, paratuna; cassava, peibe. I may here mention one of those descriptive compounds that seem to characterise the infancy of language, though they are retained in some very perfect idioms.* (See volume 1 chapter 1.9.) Thus, as in the Biscayan, thunder is called the noise of the cloud (odotsa); the sun bears the name, in the Salive dialect, of mume-seke-cocco, the man (cocco) of the earth (seke) above (mume).
The most ancient abode of the Salive nation appears to have been on the western banks of the Orinoco, between the Rio Vichada* and the Guaviare, and also between the Meta and the Rio Paute. Salives are now found not only at Carichana, but in the Missions of the province of Casanre, at Cabapuna, Guanapalo, Cabiuna, and Macuco. They are a social, mild, almost timid people; and more easy, I will not say to civilize207, but to subdue367, than the other tribes on the Orinoco. To escape from the dominion415 of the Caribs, the Salives willingly joined the first Missions of the Jesuits. Accordingly these fathers everywhere in their writings praise the docility416 and intelligence of that people. The Salives have a great taste for music: in the most remote times they had trumpets417 of baked earth, four or five feet long, with several large globular cavities communicating with one another by narrow pipes. These trumpets send forth most dismal418 sounds. The Jesuits have cultivated with success the natural taste of the Salives for instrumental music; and even since the destruction of the society, the missionaries of Rio Meta have continued at San Miguel de Macuco a fine church choir419, and musical instruction for the Indian youth. Very lately a traveller was surprised to see the natives playing on the violin, the violoncello, the triangle, the guitar, and the flute420.
[* The Salive mission, on the Rio Vichada, was destroyed by the Caribs.]
We found among these Salive Indians, at Carichana, a white woman, the sister of a Jesuit of New Grenada. It is difficult to define the satisfaction that is felt when, in the midst of nations of whose language we are ignorant, we meet with a being with whom we can converse421 without an interpreter. Every mission has at least two interpreters (lenguarazes). They are Indians, a little less stupid than the rest, through whose medium the missionaries of the Orinoco, who now very rarely give themselves the trouble of studying the idioms of the country, communicate with the neophytes. These interpreters attended us in all our herborizations; but they rather understand than speak Castilian. With their indolent indifference, they answer us by chance, but always with an officious smile, “Yes, Father; no, Father,” to every question addressed to them.
The vexation that arises from such a style of conversation continued for months may easily be conceived, when you wish to be enlightened upon objects in which you take the most lively interest. We were often forced to employ several interpreters at a time, and several successive translators, in order to communicate with the natives.*
[* To form a just idea of the perplexity of these communications by interpreters, we may recollect that, in the expedition of Lewis and Clarke to the river Columbia, in order to converse with the Chopunnish Indians, Captain Lewis addressed one of his men in English; that man translated the question into French to Chaboneau; Chaboneau translated it to his Indian wife in Minnetaree; the woman translated it into Shoshonee to a prisoner; and the prisoner translated it into Chopunnish. It may be feared that the sense of the question was a little altered by these successive translations.]
“After leaving my Mission,” said the good monk of Uruana, “you will travel like mutes.” This prediction was nearly accomplished422; and, not to lose the advantage we might derive from intercourse423 even with the rudest Indians, we sometimes preferred the language of signs. When a native perceives that you will not employ an interpreter; when you interrogate424 him directly, showing him the objects; he rouses himself from his habitual apathy425, and manifests an extraordinary capacity to make himself comprehended. He varies his signs, pronounces his words slowly, and repeats them without being desired. The consequence conferred upon him, in suffering yourself to be instructed by him, flatters his self-love. This facility in making himself comprehended is particularly remarkable426 in the independent Indian. It cannot be doubted that direct intercourse with the natives is more instructive and more certain than the communication by interpreters, provided the questions be simplified, and repeated to several individuals under different forms. The variety of idioms spoken on the banks of the Meta, the Orinoco, the Cassiquiare, and the Rio Negro, is so prodigious, that a traveller, however great may be his talent for languages, can never hope to learn enough to make himself understood along the navigable rivers, from Angostura to the small fort of San Carlos del Rio Negro. In Peru and Quito it is sufficient to know the Quichua, or the Inca language; in Chile, the Araucan; and in Paraguay, the Guarany; in order to be understood by most of the population. But it is different in the Missions of Spanish Guiana, where nations of various races are mingled427 in the village. It is not even sufficient to have learned the Caribee or Carina, the Guamo, the Guahive, the Jaruro, the Ottomac, the Maypure, the Salive, the Marivitan, the Maquiritare, and the Guaica, ten dialects, of which there exist only imperfect grammars, and which have less affinity428 with each other than the Greek, German, and Persian languages.
The environs of the Mission of Carichana appeared to us to be delightful429. The little village is situated in one of those plains covered with grass that separate all the links of the granitic mountains, from Encaramada to beyond the Cataracts of Maypures. The line of the forests is seen only in the distance. The horizon is everywhere bounded by mountains, partly wooded and of a dark tint, partly bare, with rocky summits gilded430 by the beams of the setting sun. What gives a peculiar character to the scenery of this country are banks of rock (laxas) nearly destitute of vegetation, and often more than eight hundred feet in circumference, yet scarcely rising a few inches above the surrounding savannahs. They now make a part of the plain. We ask ourselves with surprise, whether some extraordinary revolutions may have carried away the earth and plants; or whether the granite nucleus431 of our planet shows itself bare, because the germs of life are not yet developed on all its points. The same phenomenon seems to be found also in the desert of Shamo, which separates Mongolia from China. Those banks of solitary rock in the desert are called tsy. I think they would be real table-lands, if the surrounding plains were stripped of the sand and mould that cover them, and which the waters have accumulated in the lowest places. On these stony432 flats of Carichana we observed with interest the rising vegetation in the different degrees of its development. We there found lichens433 cleaving434 the rock, and collected in crusts more or less thick; little portions of sand nourishing succulent plants; and lastly layers of black mould deposited in the hollows, formed from the decay of roots and leaves, and shaded by tufts of evergreen435 shrubs.
At the distance of two or three leagues from the Mission, we find, in these plains intersected by granitic hills, a vegetation no less rich than varied436. On comparing the site of Carichana with that of all the villages above the Great Cataracts, we are surprised at the facility with which we traverse the country, without following the banks of the rivers, or being stopped by the thickness of the forests. M. Bonpland made several excursions on horseback, which furnished him with a rich harvest of plants. I shall mention only the paraguatan, a magnificent species of the macrocnemum, the bark of which yields a red dye;* the guaricamo, with a poisonous root;* the Jacaranda obtusifolia; and the serrape, or jape* of the Salive Indians, which is the Coumarouna of Aublet, so celebrated throughout Terra Firma for its aromatic437 fruit. This fruit, which at Caracas is placed among linen438, as in Europe it is in snuff, under the name of tonca, or Tonquin bean, is regarded as poisonous. It is a false notion, very general in the province of Cumana, that the excellent liqueur fabricated at Martinique owes its peculiar flavour to the jape. In the Missions it is called simaruba; a name that may occasion serious mistakes, the true simaruba being a febrifuge species of the Quassia genus, found in Spanish Guiana only in the valley of Rio Caura, where the Paudacot Indians give it the name of achecchari.
[* Macrocnemum tinctorium.]
[* Ityania coccidea.]
[* Dipterix odorata, Willd. or Baryosma tongo of Gaertner. The jape furnishes Carichana with excellent timber.]
I found the dip of the magnetic needle, in the great square at Carichana, 33.7° (new division). The intensity of the magnetic action was expressed by two hundred and twenty-seven oscillations in ten minutes of time; an increase of force that would seem to indicate some local attraction. Yet the blocks of the granite, blackened by the waters of the Orinoco, have no perceptible action upon the needle.
The river had risen several inches during the day on the 10th of April; this phenomenon surprised the natives so much the more, as the first swellings are almost imperceptible, and are usually followed in the month of April by a fall for some days. The Orinoco was already three feet higher than the level of the lowest waters. The natives showed us on a granite wall the traces of the great rise of the waters of late years. We found them to be forty-two feet high, which is double the mean rise of the Nile. But this measure was taken in a place where the bed of the Orinoco is singularly hemmed439 in by rocks, and I could only notice the marks shown me by the natives. It may easily be conceived that the effect and the height of the increase differs according to the profile of the river, the nature of the banks more or less elevated, the number of rivers flowing in that collect the pluvial waters, and the length of ground passed over. It is an unquestionable fact that at Carichana, at San Borja, at Atures, and at Maypures, wherever the river has forced its way through the mountains, you see at a hundred, sometimes at a hundred and thirty feet, above the highest present swell38 of the river, black bands and erosions, that indicate the ancient levels of the waters. Is then this river, which appears to us so grand and so majestic, only the feeble remains of those immense currents of fresh water which heretofore traversed the country at the east of the Andes, like arms of inland seas? What must have been the state of those low countries of Guiana that now undergo the effects of annual inundations? What immense numbers of crocodiles, manatees, and boas must have inhabited these vast spaces of land, converted alternately into marshes of stagnant water, and into barren and fissured440 plains! The more peaceful world which we inhabit has then succeeded to a world of tumult151. The bones of mastodons and American elephants are found dispersed on the table-lands of the Andes. The megatherium inhabited the plains of Uruguay. On digging deep into the ground, in high valleys, where neither palm-trees nor arborescent ferns can grow, strata of coal are discovered, that still show vestiges441 of gigantic monocotyledonous plants.
There was a remote period then, in which the classes of plants were otherwise distributed, when the animals were larger, and the rivers broader and of greater depth. There end those records of nature, that it is in our power to consult. We are ignorant whether the human race, which at the time of the discovery of America scarcely formed a few feeble tribes on the east of the Cordilleras, had already descended442 into the plains; or whether the ancient tradition of the great waters, which is found among the nations of the Orinoco, the Erevato, and the Caura, belong to other climates, whence it has been propagated to this part of the New Continent.
On the 11th of April, we left Carichana at two in the afternoon, and found the course of the river more and more encumbered by blocks of granite rocks. We passed on the west the Cano Orupe, and then the great rock known by the name of Piedra del Tigre. The river is there so deep, that no bottom can be found with a line of twenty-two fathoms443. Towards evening the weather became cloudy and gloomy. The proximity of the storm was marked by squalls alternating with dead calms. The rain was violent, and the roof of foliage, under which we lay, afforded but little shelter. Happily these showers drove away the mosquitos, at least for some time. We found ourselves before the cataract of Cariven, and the impulse of the waters was so strong, that we had great difficulty in gaining the land. We were continually driven back to the middle of the current. At length two Salive Indians, excellent swimmers, leaped into the water, and having drawn the boat to shore by means of a rope, made it fast to the Piedra de Carichana Vieja, a shelf of bare rock, on which we passed the night. The thunder continued to roll during a part of the night; the swell of the river became considerable; and we were several times afraid that our frail170 bark would be driven from the shore by the impetuosity of the waves.
The granitic rock on which we lay is one of those, where travellers on the Orinoco have heard from time to time, towards sunrise, subterraneous sounds, resembling those of the organ. The missionaries call these stones laxas de musica. “It is witchcraft444 (cosa de bruxas),” said our young Indian pilot, who could speak Spanish. We never ourselves heard these mysterious sounds, either at Carichana Vieja, or in the Upper Orinoco; but from information given us by witnesses worthy445 of belief, the existence of a phenomenon that seems to depend on a certain state of the atmosphere, cannot be denied. The shelves of rock are full of very narrow and deep crevices. They are heated during the day to 48 or 50°. I several times found their temperature at the surface, during the night, at 39°, the surrounding atmosphere being at 28°. It may easily be conceived, that the difference of temperature between the subterranean446 and the external air attains its maximum about sunrise, or at that moment which is at the same time farthest from the period of the maximum of the heat of the preceding day. May not these organ-like sounds, which are heard when a person lays his ear in contact with the stone, be the effect of a current of air that issues out through the crevices? Does not the impulse of the air against the elastic447 spangles of mica that intercept448 the crevices, contribute to modify the sounds? May we not admit that the ancient inhabitants of Egypt, in passing incessantly449 up and down the Nile, had made the same observation on some rock of the Thebaid; and that the music of the rocks there led to the jugglery450 of the priests in the statue of Memnon? Perhaps, when, “the rosy-fingered Aurora451 rendered her son, the glorious Memnon, vocal,”* the voice was that of a man hidden beneath the pedestal of the statue; but the observation of the natives of the Orinoco, which we relate, seems to explain in a natural manner what gave rise to the Egyptian belief of a stone that poured forth sounds at sunrise.
[* These are the words of an inscription452, which attests453 that sounds were heard on the 13th of the month Pachon, in the tenth year of the reign454 of Antoninus. See Monuments de l’Egypte Ancienne.]
Almost at the same period at which I communicated these conjectures455 to some of the learned of Europe, three French travellers, MM. Jomard, Jollois, and Devilliers, were led to analogous456 ideas. They heard, at sunrise, in a monument of granite, at the centre of the spot on which stands the palace of Karnak, a noise resembling that of a string breaking. Now this comparison is precisely457 that which the ancients employed in speaking of the voice of Memnon. The French travellers thought, like me, that the passage of rarefied air through the fissures of a sonorous stone might have suggested to the Egyptian priests the invention of the juggleries of the Memnomium.
We left the rock at four in the morning. The missionary had told us that we should have great difficulty in passing the rapids and the mouth of the Meta. The Indians rowed twelve hours and a half without intermission, and during all that time, they took no other nourishment458 than cassava and plantains. When we consider the difficulty of overcoming the force of the current, and of passing the cataracts; when we reflect on the constant employment of the muscular powers during a navigation of two months; we are equally surprised at the constitutional vigour459 and the abstinence of the Indians of the Orinoco and the Amazon. Amylaceous and saccharine460 substances, sometimes fish and the fat of turtles’ eggs, supply the place of food drawn from the first two classes of the animal kingdom, those of quadrupeds and birds.
We found the bed of the river, to the length of six hundred toises, full of granite rocks. Here is what is called the Raudal de Cariven. We passed through channels that were not five feet broad. Our canoe was sometimes jammed between two blocks of granite. We sought to avoid these passages, into which the waters rushed with a fearful noise; but there is really little danger, in a canoe steered461 by a good Indian pilot. When the current is too violent to be resisted the rowers leap into the water, and fasten a rope to the point of a rock, to warp462 the boat along. This manoeuvre is very tedious; and we sometimes availed ourselves of it, to climb the rocks among which we were entangled463. They are of all dimensions, rounded, very black, glossy like lead, and destitute of vegetation. It is an extraordinary phenomenon to see the waters of one of the largest rivers on the globe in some sort disappear. We perceived, even far from the shore, those immense blocks of granite, rising from the ground, and leaning one against another. The intervening channels in the rapids are more than twenty-five fathoms deep; and are the more difficult to be observed, as the rocks are often narrow toward their bases, and form vaults464 suspended over the surface of the river. We perceived no crocodiles in the raudal; these animals seem to shun465 the noise of cataracts.
From Cabruta to the mouth of the Rio Sinaruco, a distance of nearly two degrees of latitude, the left bank of the Orinoco is entirely uninhabited; but to the west of the Raudal de Cariven an enterprising man, Don Felix Relinchon, had assembled some Jaruro and Ottomac Indians in a small village. It is an attempt at civilization, on which the monks have had no direct influence. It is superfluous466 to add, that Don Felix lives at open war with the missionaries on the right bank of the Orinoco.
Proceeding467 up the river we arrived, at nine in the morning, before the mouth of the Meta, opposite the spot where the Mission of Santa Teresa, founded by the Jesuits, was heretofore situated.
Next to the Guaviare, the Meta is the most considerable river that flows into the Orinoco. It may be compared to the Danube, not for the length of its course, but for the volume of its waters. Its mean depth is thirty-six feet, and it sometimes reaches eighty-four. The union of these two rivers presents a very impressive spectacle. Lonely rocks rise on the eastern bank. Blocks of granite, piled upon one another, appear from afar like castles in ruins. Vast sandy shores keep the skirting of the forest at a distance from the river; but we discover amid them, in the horizon, solitary palm-trees, backed by the sky, and crowning the tops of the mountains. We passed two hours on a large rock, standing56 in the middle of the Orinoco, and called the Piedra de la Paciencia, or the Stone of Patience, because the canoes, in going up, are sometimes detained there two days, to extricate468 themselves from the whirlpool caused by this rock.
The Rio Meta, which traverses the vast plains of Casanare, and which is navigable as far as the foot of the Andes of New Grenada, will one day be of great political importance to the inhabitants of Guiana and Venezuela. From the Golfo Triste and the Boca del Drago a small fleet may go up the Orinoco and the Meta to within fifteen or twenty leagues of Santa Fe de Bogota. The flour of New Grenada may be conveyed the same way. The Meta is like a canal of communication between countries placed in the same latitude, but differing in their productions as much as France and Senegal. The Meta has its source in the union of two rivers which descend from the paramos of Chingasa and Suma Paz. The first is the Rio Negro, which, lower down, receives the Pachaquiaro; the second is the Rio de Aguas Blancas, or Umadea. The junction takes place near the port of Marayal. It is only eight or ten leagues from the Passo de la Cabulla, where you quit the Rio Negro, to the capital of Santa Fe. From the villages of Xiramena and Cabullaro to those of Guanapalo and Santa Rosalia de Cabapuna, a distance of sixty leagues, the banks of the Meta are more inhabited than those of the Orinoco. We find in this space fourteen Christian settlements, in part very populous469; but from the mouths of the rivers Pauto and Casanare, for a space of more than fifty leagues, the Meta is infested by the Guahibos, a race of savages470.*
[* I find the word written Guajibos, Guahivos, and Guagivos. They call themselves Gua-iva.]
The navigation of this river was much more active in the time of the Jesuits, and particularly during the expedition of Iturriaga, in 1756, than it is at present. Missionaries of the same order then governed the banks of the Meta and of the Orinoco. The villages of Macuco, Zurimena, and Casimena, were founded by the Jesuits, as well as those of Uruana, Encaramada, and Carichana.
These Fathers had conceived the project of forming a series of Missions from the junction of the Casanare with the Meta to that of the Meta with the Orinoco. A narrow zone of cultivated land would have crossed the vast steppes that separate the forests of Guiana from the Andes of New Grenada.
At the period of the harvest of turtles’ eggs, not only the flour of Santa Fe descended the river, but the salt of Chita,* the cotton cloth of San Gil, and the printed counterpanes of Socorro. To give some security to the little traders who devoted471 themselves to this inland commerce, attacks were made from time to time from the castillo or fort of Carichana, on the Guahibos.
[* East of Labranza Grande, and the north-west of Pore, now the capital of the province of Casanare.]
To keep these Guahibos in awe472, the Capuchin missionaries, who succeeded the Jesuits in the government of the Missions of the Orinoco, formed the project of founding a city at the mouth of the Meta, under the name of the Villa28 de San Carlos. Indolence, and the dread of tertian fevers, have prevented the execution of this project; and all that has ever existed of the city of San Carlos, is a coat of arms painted on fine parchment, with an enormous cross erected473 on the bank of the Meta. The Guahibos, who, it is said, are some thousands in number, have become so insolent474, that, at the time of our passage by Carichana, they sent word to the missionary that they would come on rafts, and burn his village. These rafts (valzas), which we had an opportunity of seeing, are scarcely three feet broad, and twelve feet long. They carry only two or three Indians; but fifteen or sixteen of these rafts are fastened to each other with the stems of the paullinia, the dolichos, and other creeping plants. It is difficult to conceive how these small craft remain tied together in passing the rapids. Many fugitives475 from the villages of the Casanare and the Apure have joined the Guahibos, and taught them the practice of eating beef, and preparing hides. The farms of San Vicente, Rubio, and San Antonio, have lost great numbers of their horned cattle by the incursions of the Indians, who also prevent travellers, as far as the junction of the Casanare, from sleeping on the shore in going up the Meta. It often happens, while the waters are low, that the traders of New Grenada, some of whom still visit the encampment of Pararuma, are killed by the poisoned arrows of the Guahibos.
From the mouth of the Meta, the Orinoco appeared to us to be freer of shoals and rocks. We navigated476 in a channel five hundred toises broad. The Indians remained rowing in the boat, without towing or pushing it forward with their arms, and wearying us with their wild cries. We passed the Canos of Uita and Endava on the west. It was night when we reached the Raudal de Tabaje. The Indians would not hazard passing the cataract; and we slept on a very incommodious spot, on the shelf of a rock, with a slope of more than eighteen degrees, and of which the crevices sheltered a swarm of bats. We heard the cries of the jaguar very near us during the whole night. They were answered by our great dog in lengthened477 howlings. I waited the appearance of the stars in vain: the sky was exceedingly black; and the hoarse478 sounds of the cascades of the Orinoco mingled with the rolling of the distant thunder.
Early in the morning of the 13th April we passed the rapids of Tabaje, and again disembarked. Father Zea, who accompanied us, desired to perform mass in the new Mission of San Borja, established two years before. We there found six houses inhabited by uncatechised Guahibos. They differ in nothing from the wild Indians. Their eyes, which are large and black, have more vivacity than those of the Indians who inhabit the ancient missions. We in vain offered them brandy; they would not even taste it. The faces of all the young girls were marked with round black spots; like the patches by which the ladies of Europe formerly imagined they set off the whiteness of their skins. The bodies of the Guahibos were not painted. Several of them had beards, of which they seemed proud; and, taking us by the chin, showed us by signs, that they were made like us. Their shape was in general slender. I was again struck, as I had been among the Salives and the Macos, with the little uniformity of features to be found among the Indians of the Orinoco. Their look is sad and gloomy; but neither stern nor ferocious479. Without having any notion of the practices of the Christian religion, they behaved with the utmost decency480 at church. The Indians love to exhibit themselves; and will submit temporarily to any restraint or subjection, provided they are sure of drawing attention. At the moment of the consecration, they made signs to one another, to indicate beforehand that the priest was going to raise the chalice481 to his lips. With the exception of this gesture, they remained motionless and in imperturbable482 apathy.
The interest with which we examined these poor savages became perhaps the cause of the destruction of the mission. Some among them, who preferred a wandering life to the labours of agriculture, persuaded the rest to return to the plains of the Meta. They told them, that the white men would come back to San Borja, to take them away in the boats, and sell them as poitos, or slaves, at Angostura. The Guahibos awaited the news of our return from the Rio Negro by the Cassiquiare; and when they heard that we were arrived at the first great cataract, that of Atures, they all deserted, and fled to the savannahs that border the Orinoco on the west. The Jesuit Fathers had already formed a mission on this spot, and bearing the same name. No tribe is more difficult to fix to the soil than the Guahibos. They would rather feed on stale fish, scolopendras, and worms, than cultivate a little spot of ground. The other Indians say, that a Guahibo eats everything that exists, both on and under the ground.
In ascending the Orinoco more to the south, the heat, far from increasing, became more bearable. The air in the day was at 26 or 27.5°; and at night, at 23.7. The water of the Orinoco retained its habitual temperature of 27.7°. The torment of the mosquitos augmented severely483, notwithstanding the decrease of heat. We never suffered so much from them as at San Borja. We could neither speak nor uncover our faces without having our mouths and noses filled with insects. We were surprised not to find the thermometer at 35 or 36°; the extreme irritation484 of the skin made us believe that the air was scorching485. We passed the night on the beach of Guaripo. The fear of the little caribe fish prevented us from bathing. The crocodiles we had met with this day were all of an extraordinary size, from twenty-two to twenty-four feet.
Our sufferings from the zancudos made us depart at five o’clock on the morning of the 14th. There are fewer insects in the strata of air lying immediately on the river, than near the edge of the forests. We stopped to breakfast at the island of Guachaco, or Vachaco, where the granite is immediately covered by a formation of sandstone, or conglomerate. This sandstone contains fragments of quartz, and even of feldspar, cemented by indurated clay. It exhibits little veins of brown iron-ore, which separate in laminae, or plates, of one line in thickness. We had already found these plates on the shores between Encaramada and Baraguan, where the missionaries had sometimes taken them for an ore of gold, and sometimes for tin. It is probable, that this secondary formation occupied formerly a larger space. Having passed the mouth of the Rio Parueni, beyond which the Maco Indians dwell, we spent the night on the island of Panumana. I could with difficulty take the altitudes of Canopus, in order to fix the longitude486 of the point, near which the river suddenly turns towards the west. The island of Panumana is rich in plants. We there again found those shelves of bare rock, those tufts of melastomas, those thickets of small shrubs, the blended scenery of which had charmed us in the plains of Carichana. The mountains of the Great Cataracts bounded the horizon towards the south-east. In proportion as we advanced, the shores of the Orinoco exhibited a more imposing487 and picturesque aspect.
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junction
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n.连接,接合;交叉点,接合处,枢纽站 | |
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fore
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adv.在前面;adj.先前的;在前部的;n.前部 | |
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resounded
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v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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4
flamingos
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n.红鹳,火烈鸟(羽毛粉红、长颈的大涉禽)( flamingo的名词复数 ) | |
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animated
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adj.生气勃勃的,活跃的,愉快的 | |
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obliquely
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adv.斜; 倾斜; 间接; 不光明正大 | |
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agitated
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adj.被鼓动的,不安的 | |
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parched
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adj.焦干的;极渴的;v.(使)焦干 | |
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mirage
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n.海市蜃楼,幻景 | |
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stagnant
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adj.不流动的,停滞的,不景气的 | |
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scattered
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adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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solitude
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n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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majestic
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adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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peculiar
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adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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15
velocity
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n.速度,速率 | |
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mere
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adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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tint
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n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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Mediterranean
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adj.地中海的;地中海沿岸的 | |
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favourable
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adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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20
ward
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n.守卫,监护,病房,行政区,由监护人或法院保护的人(尤指儿童);vt.守护,躲开 | |
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habitually
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ad.习惯地,通常地 | |
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habitual
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adj.习惯性的;通常的,惯常的 | |
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isolated
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adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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quartz
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n.石英 | |
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granite
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adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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promontory
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n.海角;岬 | |
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inundation
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n.the act or fact of overflowing | |
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villa
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n.别墅,城郊小屋 | |
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entirely
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ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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missionaries
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n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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forsake
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vt.遗弃,抛弃;舍弃,放弃 | |
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deserted
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adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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monk
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n.和尚,僧侣,修道士 | |
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monks
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n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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penetrates
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v.穿过( penetrate的第三人称单数 );刺入;了解;渗透 | |
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penetrate
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v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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ascertained
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v.弄清,确定,查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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swell
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vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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swelling
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n.肿胀 | |
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40
Augmented
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adj.增音的 动词augment的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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cleft
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n.裂缝;adj.裂开的 | |
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decomposition
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n. 分解, 腐烂, 崩溃 | |
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embellish
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v.装饰,布置;给…添加细节,润饰 | |
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granitic
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花岗石的,由花岗岩形成的 | |
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cylinders
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n.圆筒( cylinder的名词复数 );圆柱;汽缸;(尤指用作容器的)圆筒状物 | |
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vertical
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adj.垂直的,顶点的,纵向的;n.垂直物,垂直的位置 | |
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formerly
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adv.从前,以前 | |
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cylindric
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adj.圆筒的,圆柱状的 | |
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mica
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n.云母 | |
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strata
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n.地层(复数);社会阶层 | |
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inclination
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n.倾斜;点头;弯腰;斜坡;倾度;倾向;爱好 | |
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decomposed
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已分解的,已腐烂的 | |
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configuration
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n.结构,布局,形态,(计算机)配置 | |
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limestone
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n.石灰石 | |
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alluvial
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adj.冲积的;淤积的 | |
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standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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micaceous
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adj.云母的,含云母的,云母状的 | |
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nuclei
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n.核 | |
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oxide
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n.氧化物 | |
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destitute
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adj.缺乏的;穷困的 | |
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missionary
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adj.教会的,传教(士)的;n.传教士 | |
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solitudes
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n.独居( solitude的名词复数 );孤独;荒僻的地方;人迹罕至的地方 | |
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savage
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adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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recollect
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v.回忆,想起,记起,忆起,记得 | |
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recollected
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adj.冷静的;镇定的;被回忆起的;沉思默想的v.记起,想起( recollect的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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cataract
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n.大瀑布,奔流,洪水,白内障 | |
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sonorous
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adj.响亮的,回响的;adv.圆润低沉地;感人地;n.感人,堂皇 | |
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derive
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v.取得;导出;引申;来自;源自;出自 | |
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derived
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vi.起源;由来;衍生;导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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athletic
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adj.擅长运动的,强健的;活跃的,体格健壮的 | |
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stature
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n.(高度)水平,(高度)境界,身高,身材 | |
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eyebrows
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眉毛( eyebrow的名词复数 ) | |
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countenances
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n.面容( countenance的名词复数 );表情;镇静;道义支持 | |
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skulls
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颅骨( skull的名词复数 ); 脑袋; 脑子; 脑瓜 | |
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gust
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n.阵风,突然一阵(雨、烟等),(感情的)迸发 | |
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thighs
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n.股,大腿( thigh的名词复数 );食用的鸡(等的)腿 | |
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swelled
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增强( swell的过去式和过去分词 ); 肿胀; (使)凸出; 充满(激情) | |
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attentive
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adj.注意的,专心的;关心(别人)的,殷勤的 | |
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exterior
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adj.外部的,外在的;表面的 | |
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ornament
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v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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ornaments
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n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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configurations
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n.[化学]结构( configuration的名词复数 );构造;(计算机的)配置;构形(原子在分子中的相对空间位置) | |
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culpable
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adj.有罪的,该受谴责的 | |
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indifference
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n.不感兴趣,不关心,冷淡,不在乎 | |
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calf
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n.小牛,犊,幼仔,小牛皮 | |
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creek
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n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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distinguished
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adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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vault
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n.拱形圆顶,地窖,地下室 | |
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gusts
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一阵强风( gust的名词复数 ); (怒、笑等的)爆发; (感情的)迸发; 发作 | |
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marshes
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n.沼泽,湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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swarm
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n.(昆虫)等一大群;vi.成群飞舞;蜂拥而入 | |
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92
ascend
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vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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93
abrupt
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adj.突然的,意外的;唐突的,鲁莽的 | |
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94
considerably
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adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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95
latitude
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n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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96
latitudes
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纬度 | |
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97
rim
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n.(圆物的)边,轮缘;边界 | |
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98
grassy
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adj.盖满草的;长满草的 | |
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99
perfectly
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adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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100
sufficiently
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adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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101
penetrating
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adj.(声音)响亮的,尖锐的adj.(气味)刺激的adj.(思想)敏锐的,有洞察力的 | |
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102
cataracts
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n.大瀑布( cataract的名词复数 );白内障 | |
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103
sketch
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n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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104
navigate
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v.航行,飞行;导航,领航 | |
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105
regularity
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n.规律性,规则性;匀称,整齐 | |
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106
descend
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vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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107
descending
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n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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108
conveyance
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n.(不动产等的)转让,让与;转让证书;传送;运送;表达;(正)运输工具 | |
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109
eminently
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adv.突出地;显著地;不寻常地 | |
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110
fabulous
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adj.极好的;极为巨大的;寓言中的,传说中的 | |
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111
chimerical
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adj.荒诞不经的,梦幻的 | |
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112
conqueror
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n.征服者,胜利者 | |
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113
conquerors
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征服者,占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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114
plantations
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n.种植园,大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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115
fatigue
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n.疲劳,劳累 | |
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116
metallic
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adj.金属的;金属制的;含金属的;产金属的;像金属的 | |
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117
vein
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n.血管,静脉;叶脉,纹理;情绪;vt.使成脉络 | |
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118
veins
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n.纹理;矿脉( vein的名词复数 );静脉;叶脉;纹理 | |
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119
profess
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v.声称,冒称,以...为业,正式接受入教,表明信仰 | |
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120
disseminated
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散布,传播( disseminate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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121
ramification
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n.分枝,分派,衍生物 | |
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122
volcanic
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adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
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123
abode
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n.住处,住所 | |
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124
deluge
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n./vt.洪水,暴雨,使泛滥 | |
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125
situated
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adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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126
hind
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adj.后面的,后部的 | |
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127
simplicity
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n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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128
embellished
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v.美化( embellish的过去式和过去分词 );装饰;修饰;润色 | |
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129
symbolic
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adj.象征性的,符号的,象征主义的 | |
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130
hieroglyphic
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n.象形文字 | |
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131
disperse
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vi.使分散;使消失;vt.分散;驱散 | |
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132
dispersed
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adj. 被驱散的, 被分散的, 散布的 | |
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133
relics
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[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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134
shipwreck
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n.船舶失事,海难 | |
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135
philosophical
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adj.哲学家的,哲学上的,达观的 | |
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136
astonishment
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n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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137
renewal
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adj.(契约)延期,续订,更新,复活,重来 | |
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138
remains
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n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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139
anterior
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adj.较早的;在前的 | |
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140
penetrated
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adj. 击穿的,鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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141
diminutive
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adj.小巧可爱的,小的 | |
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142
Christian
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adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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143
primitive
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adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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144
conglomerate
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n.综合商社,多元化集团公司 | |
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145
celebrated
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adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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146
annually
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adv.一年一次,每年 | |
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147
accustom
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vt.使适应,使习惯 | |
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148
bustle
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v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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149
pigments
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n.(粉状)颜料( pigment的名词复数 );天然色素 | |
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150
pigment
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n.天然色素,干粉颜料 | |
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151
tumult
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n.喧哗;激动,混乱;吵闹 | |
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152
pulp
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n.果肉,纸浆;v.化成纸浆,除去...果肉,制成纸浆 | |
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153
ascending
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adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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154
devour
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v.吞没;贪婪地注视或谛听,贪读;使着迷 | |
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155
devoured
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吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 ); 耗尽; 津津有味地看; 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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156
frugal
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adj.节俭的,节约的,少量的,微量的 | |
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157
procure
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vt.获得,取得,促成;vi.拉皮条 | |
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158
concealed
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a.隐藏的,隐蔽的 | |
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159
stratum
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n.地层,社会阶层 | |
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160
determined
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adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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161
accurately
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adv.准确地,精确地 | |
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162
bog
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n.沼泽;室...陷入泥淖 | |
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163
perpendicular
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adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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164
perpendicularly
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adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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165
radius
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n.半径,半径范围;有效航程,范围,界限 | |
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166
perches
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栖息处( perch的名词复数 ); 栖枝; 高处; 鲈鱼 | |
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167
abruptly
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adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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168
emphatic
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adj.强调的,着重的;无可置疑的,明显的 | |
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169
vessels
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n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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170
frail
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adj.身体虚弱的;易损坏的 | |
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171
monkish
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adj.僧侣的,修道士的,禁欲的 | |
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172
margins
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边( margin的名词复数 ); 利润; 页边空白; 差数 | |
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173
impeded
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阻碍,妨碍,阻止( impede的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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174
dread
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vt.担忧,忧虑;惧怕,不敢;n.担忧,畏惧 | |
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175
dreads
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n.恐惧,畏惧( dread的名词复数 );令人恐惧的事物v.害怕,恐惧,担心( dread的第三人称单数 ) | |
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176
membraneous
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adj.膜的,膜状的 | |
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177
appendages
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n.附属物( appendage的名词复数 );依附的人;附属器官;附属肢体(如臂、腿、尾等) | |
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178
appendage
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n.附加物 | |
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179
furrowed
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v.犁田,开沟( furrow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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180
furrow
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n.沟;垄沟;轨迹;车辙;皱纹 | |
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181
underneath
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adj.在...下面,在...底下;adv.在下面 | |
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182
lateral
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adj.侧面的,旁边的 | |
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183
crooked
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adj.弯曲的;不诚实的,狡猾的,不正当的 | |
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184
extremity
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n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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185
elongated
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v.延长,加长( elongate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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186
reposing
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v.将(手臂等)靠在某人(某物)上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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187
tranquilly
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adv. 宁静地 | |
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188
yolk
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n.蛋黄,卵黄 | |
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189
jaguars
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n.(中、南美洲的)美洲虎( jaguar的名词复数 ) | |
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190
jaguar
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n.美洲虎 | |
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191
gathering
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n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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192
skilful
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(=skillful)adj.灵巧的,熟练的 | |
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193
predecessors
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n.前任( predecessor的名词复数 );前辈;(被取代的)原有事物;前身 | |
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194
prudence
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n.谨慎,精明,节俭 | |
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195
lieutenant
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n.陆军中尉,海军上尉;代理官员,副职官员 | |
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196
consecration
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n.供献,奉献,献祭仪式 | |
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197
cane
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n.手杖,细长的茎,藤条;v.以杖击,以藤编制的 | |
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198
sterling
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adj.英币的(纯粹的,货真价实的);n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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199
shovels
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n.铲子( shovel的名词复数 );锹;推土机、挖土机等的)铲;铲形部份v.铲子( shovel的第三人称单数 );锹;推土机、挖土机等的)铲;铲形部份 | |
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200
limpid
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adj.清澈的,透明的 | |
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201
putrid
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adj.腐臭的;有毒的;已腐烂的;卑劣的 | |
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202
statistical
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adj.统计的,统计学的 | |
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203
prodigious
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adj.惊人的,奇妙的;异常的;巨大的;庞大的 | |
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204
swarming
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密集( swarm的现在分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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205
confluence
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n.汇合,聚集 | |
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206
basking
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v.晒太阳,取暖( bask的现在分词 );对…感到乐趣;因他人的功绩而出名;仰仗…的余泽 | |
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207
civilize
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vt.使文明,使开化 (=civilise) | |
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208
civilized
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a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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209
naturalist
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n.博物学家(尤指直接观察动植物者) | |
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210
suppleness
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柔软; 灵活; 易弯曲; 顺从 | |
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211
armour
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(=armor)n.盔甲;装甲部队 | |
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212
surgical
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adj.外科的,外科医生的,手术上的 | |
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213
infested
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adj.为患的,大批滋生的(常与with搭配)v.害虫、野兽大批出没于( infest的过去式和过去分词 );遍布于 | |
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214
manatee
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n.海牛 | |
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215
hesitation
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n.犹豫,踌躇 | |
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216
delicacy
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n.精致,细微,微妙,精良;美味,佳肴 | |
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217
thither
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adv.向那里;adj.在那边的,对岸的 | |
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218
tack
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n.大头钉;假缝,粗缝 | |
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219
dexterity
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n.(手的)灵巧,灵活 | |
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220
manoeuvre
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n.策略,调动;v.用策略,调动 | |
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221
awakened
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v.(使)醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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222
uncertainty
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n.易变,靠不住,不确知,不确定的事物 | |
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223
abated
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减少( abate的过去式和过去分词 ); 减去; 降价; 撤消(诉讼) | |
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224
laden
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adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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225
phlegmatic
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adj.冷静的,冷淡的,冷漠的,无活力的 | |
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226
melancholy
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n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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227
meditations
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默想( meditation的名词复数 ); 默念; 沉思; 冥想 | |
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228
aged
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adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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229
encumbered
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v.妨碍,阻碍,拖累( encumber的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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230
torment
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n.折磨;令人痛苦的东西(人);vt.折磨;纠缠 | |
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231
torments
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(肉体或精神上的)折磨,痛苦( torment的名词复数 ); 造成痛苦的事物[人] | |
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232
intrepidity
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n.大胆,刚勇;大胆的行为 | |
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233
caverns
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大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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234
alphabetic
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adj.照字母次序的,字母的 | |
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235
greasy
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adj. 多脂的,油脂的 | |
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236
scarcity
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n.缺乏,不足,萧条 | |
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237
assuage
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v.缓和,减轻,镇定 | |
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238
physiological
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adj.生理学的,生理学上的 | |
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239
abdomen
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n.腹,下腹(胸部到腿部的部分) | |
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240
expedients
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n.应急有效的,权宜之计的( expedient的名词复数 ) | |
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241
expedient
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adj.有用的,有利的;n.紧急的办法,权宜之计 | |
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242
nautical
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adj.海上的,航海的,船员的 | |
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243
temperate
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adj.温和的,温带的,自我克制的,不过分的 | |
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244
respiration
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n.呼吸作用;一次呼吸;植物光合作用 | |
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245
improperly
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不正确地,不适当地 | |
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246
alligators
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n.短吻鳄( alligator的名词复数 ) | |
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247
plunged
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v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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248
siesta
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n.午睡 | |
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249
repose
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v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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250
essentially
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adv.本质上,实质上,基本上 | |
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251
denominations
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n.宗派( denomination的名词复数 );教派;面额;名称 | |
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252
denomination
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n.命名,取名,(度量衡、货币等的)单位 | |
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253
picturesque
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adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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254
dyke
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n.堤,水坝,排水沟 | |
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255
elevation
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n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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256
proximity
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n.接近,邻近 | |
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257
solely
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adv.仅仅,唯一地 | |
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258
abounding
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adj.丰富的,大量的v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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259
granites
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花岗岩,花岗石( granite的名词复数 ) | |
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260
clefts
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n.裂缝( cleft的名词复数 );裂口;cleave的过去式和过去分词;进退维谷 | |
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261
iguanas
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n. 美洲蜥蜴 名词iguana的复数形式 | |
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262
membranous
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adj.膜的,膜状的 | |
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263
lizards
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n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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264
enveloped
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v.包围,笼罩,包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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265
thickets
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n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 );丛状物 | |
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266
foliage
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n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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267
crevices
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n.(尤指岩石的)裂缝,缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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268
vice
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n.坏事;恶习;[pl.]台钳,老虎钳;adj.副的 | |
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269
vibration
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n.颤动,振动;摆动 | |
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270
murmur
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n.低语,低声的怨言;v.低语,低声而言 | |
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271
myriads
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n.无数,极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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272
diffused
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散布的,普及的,扩散的 | |
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273
bosom
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n.胸,胸部;胸怀;内心;adj.亲密的 | |
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274
dwarf
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n.矮子,侏儒,矮小的动植物;vt.使…矮小 | |
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275
musk
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n.麝香, 能发出麝香的各种各样的植物,香猫 | |
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276
reptiles
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n.爬行动物,爬虫( reptile的名词复数 ) | |
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277
manatees
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n.海牛(水生哺乳动物,体宽扁,尾圆,有鳃状肢)( manatee的名词复数 ) | |
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278
porpoises
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n.鼠海豚( porpoise的名词复数 ) | |
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279
creeks
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n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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280
tormented
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饱受折磨的 | |
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281
outlet
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n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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282
cascades
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倾泻( cascade的名词复数 ); 小瀑布(尤指一连串瀑布中的一支); 瀑布状物; 倾泻(或涌出)的东西 | |
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283
twilight
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n.暮光,黄昏;暮年,晚期,衰落时期 | |
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284
voracity
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n.贪食,贪婪 | |
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285
jaws
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n.口部;嘴 | |
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286
pounces
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v.突然袭击( pounce的第三人称单数 );猛扑;一眼看出;抓住机会(进行抨击) | |
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287
spacious
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adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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288
mischief
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n.损害,伤害,危害;恶作剧,捣蛋,胡闹 | |
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289
emaciated
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adj.衰弱的,消瘦的 | |
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290
apprehension
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n.理解,领悟;逮捕,拘捕;忧虑 | |
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291
faculties
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n.能力( faculty的名词复数 );全体教职员;技巧;院 | |
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292
infancy
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n.婴儿期;幼年期;初期 | |
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293
drawn
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v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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294
enchanting
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a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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295
hideous
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adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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296
crouching
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v.屈膝,蹲伏( crouch的现在分词 ) | |
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297
fixed
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adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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298
beverage
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n.(水,酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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299
degenerate
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v.退步,堕落;adj.退步的,堕落的;n.堕落者 | |
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300
affluent
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adj.富裕的,富有的,丰富的,富饶的 | |
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301
botanists
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n.植物学家,研究植物的人( botanist的名词复数 ) | |
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302
distillation
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n.蒸馏,蒸馏法 | |
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303
indigo
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n.靛青,靛蓝 | |
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304
applied
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adj.应用的;v.应用,适用 | |
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305
infusion
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n.灌输 | |
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306
maceration
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n.泡软,因绝食而衰弱 | |
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307
barter
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n.物物交换,以货易货,实物交易 | |
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308
pompously
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adv.傲慢地,盛大壮观地;大模大样 | |
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309
cargo
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n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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310
cargoes
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n.(船或飞机装载的)货物( cargo的名词复数 );大量,重负 | |
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311
vanquished
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v.征服( vanquish的过去式和过去分词 );战胜;克服;抑制 | |
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312
circumscribed
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adj.[医]局限的:受限制或限于有限空间的v.在…周围划线( circumscribe的过去式和过去分词 );划定…范围;限制;限定 | |
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313
inquiry
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|
n.打听,询问,调查,查问 | |
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314
itching
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|
adj.贪得的,痒的,渴望的v.发痒( itch的现在分词 ) | |
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315
withdrawn
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vt.收回;使退出;vi.撤退,退出 | |
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316
preservatives
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n.防腐剂( preservative的名词复数 ) | |
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317
gnats
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n.叮人小虫( gnat的名词复数 ) | |
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318
astringent
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adj.止血的,收缩的,涩的;n.收缩剂,止血剂 | |
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319
alleges
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断言,宣称,辩解( allege的第三人称单数 ) | |
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320
purgative
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n.泻药;adj.通便的 | |
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321
predilection
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n.偏好 | |
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322
procures
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v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的第三人称单数 );拉皮条 | |
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323
eradicate
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v.根除,消灭,杜绝 | |
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324
tattooing
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n.刺字,文身v.刺青,文身( tattoo的现在分词 );连续有节奏地敲击;作连续有节奏的敲击 | |
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325
modesty
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n.谦逊,虚心,端庄,稳重,羞怯,朴素 | |
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326
injustice
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n.非正义,不公正,不公平,侵犯(别人的)权利 | |
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327
caustic
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adj.刻薄的,腐蚀性的 | |
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328
apron
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n.围裙;工作裙 | |
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329
toucan
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n.巨嘴鸟,犀鸟 | |
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330
sculptors
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雕刻家,雕塑家( sculptor的名词复数 ); [天]玉夫座 | |
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331
plumes
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羽毛( plume的名词复数 ); 羽毛饰; 羽毛状物; 升上空中的羽状物 | |
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332
aprons
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围裙( apron的名词复数 ); 停机坪,台口(舞台幕前的部份) | |
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333
alimentary
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adj.饮食的,营养的 | |
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334
profuse
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adj.很多的,大量的,极其丰富的 | |
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335
perspiration
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n.汗水;出汗 | |
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336
rouge
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n.胭脂,口红唇膏;v.(在…上)擦口红 | |
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337
starch
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n.淀粉;vt.给...上浆 | |
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338
resin
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|
n.树脂,松香,树脂制品;vt.涂树脂 | |
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339
hatchets
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n.短柄小斧( hatchet的名词复数 );恶毒攻击;诽谤;休战 | |
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340
hatchet
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n.短柄小斧;v.扼杀 | |
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341
dependence
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n.依靠,依赖;信任,信赖;隶属 | |
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342
implements
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n.工具( implement的名词复数 );家具;手段;[法律]履行(契约等)v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 );执行;贯彻;使生效 | |
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343
infinitely
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adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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344
dwelling
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n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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345
foam
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v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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346
crest
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|
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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347
belly
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n.肚子,腹部;(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分,膛 | |
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348
innocence
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n.无罪;天真;无害 | |
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349
annexed
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[法] 附加的,附属的 | |
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350
tableau
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|
n.画面,活人画(舞台上活人扮的静态画面) | |
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351
catching
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adj.易传染的,有魅力的,迷人的,接住 | |
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352
grasshopper
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n.蚱蜢,蝗虫,蚂蚱 | |
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353
wasp
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n.黄蜂,蚂蜂 | |
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354
forth
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adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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355
lamentable
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adj.令人惋惜的,悔恨的 | |
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356
intensity
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n.强烈,剧烈;强度;烈度 | |
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357
authenticated
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v.证明是真实的、可靠的或有效的( authenticate的过去式和过去分词 );鉴定,使生效 | |
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358
glossy
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adj.平滑的;有光泽的 | |
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359
tinged
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v.(使)发丁丁声( ting的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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|
360
extremities
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n.端点( extremity的名词复数 );尽头;手和足;极窘迫的境地 | |
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361
ravenous
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adj.极饿的,贪婪的 | |
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362
vivacity
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|
n.快活,活泼,精神充沛 | |
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363
darts
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|
n.掷飞镖游戏;飞镖( dart的名词复数 );急驰,飞奔v.投掷,投射( dart的第三人称单数 );向前冲,飞奔 | |
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364
prey
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n.被掠食者,牺牲者,掠食;v.捕食,掠夺,折磨 | |
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365
labyrinth
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n.迷宫;难解的事物;迷路 | |
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366
notched
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a.有凹口的,有缺口的 | |
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367
subdue
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vt.制服,使顺从,征服;抑制,克制 | |
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368
laborious
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adj.吃力的,努力的,不流畅 | |
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369
specious
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adj.似是而非的;adv.似是而非地 | |
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370
compensated
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补偿,报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 ); 给(某人)赔偿(或赔款) | |
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|
371
feudal
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adj.封建的,封地的,领地的 | |
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372
degradation
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n.降级;低落;退化;陵削;降解;衰变 | |
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373
faculty
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n.才能;学院,系;(学院或系的)全体教学人员 | |
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374
annihilated
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v.(彻底)消灭( annihilate的过去式和过去分词 );使无效;废止;彻底击溃 | |
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375
motives
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n.动机,目的( motive的名词复数 ) | |
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376
retarded
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a.智力迟钝的,智力发育迟缓的 | |
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377
constraint
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n.(on)约束,限制;限制(或约束)性的事物 | |
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378
monotonous
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adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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379
naturalists
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n.博物学家( naturalist的名词复数 );(文学艺术的)自然主义者 | |
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380
ashore
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adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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381
swarmed
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密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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382
tempted
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v.怂恿(某人)干不正当的事;冒…的险(tempt的过去分词) | |
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383
amend
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vt.修改,修订,改进;n.[pl.]赔罪,赔偿 | |
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384
stifling
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a.令人窒息的 | |
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385
mutual
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adj.相互的,彼此的;共同的,共有的 | |
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386
grandeur
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n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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387
smallpox
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n.天花 | |
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388
epidemic
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n.流行病;盛行;adj.流行性的,流传极广的 | |
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389
testimony
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n.证词;见证,证明 | |
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390
attains
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(通常经过努力)实现( attain的第三人称单数 ); 达到; 获得; 达到(某年龄、水平、状况) | |
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391
attain
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vt.达到,获得,完成 | |
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392
congeals
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v.使凝结,冻结( congeal的第三人称单数 );(指血)凝结 | |
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393
rattling
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adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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394
augments
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增加,提高,扩大( augment的名词复数 ) | |
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395
envelops
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v.包围,笼罩,包住( envelop的第三人称单数 ) | |
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396
solitary
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adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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397
antiquity
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n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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398
shrubs
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灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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399
azure
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adj.天蓝色的,蔚蓝色的 | |
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400
fortress
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n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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401
cannon
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n.大炮,火炮;飞机上的机关炮 | |
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402
secular
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n.牧师,凡人;adj.世俗的,现世的,不朽的 | |
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403
clergy
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n.[总称]牧师,神职人员 | |
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404
garrison
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n.卫戍部队;驻地,卫戍区;vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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405
allurement
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n.诱惑物 | |
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406
aggrandizement
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n.增大,强化,扩大 | |
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407
candidly
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adv.坦率地,直率而诚恳地 | |
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408
chastising
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v.严惩(某人)(尤指责打)( chastise的现在分词 ) | |
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409
conversion
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n.转化,转换,转变 | |
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410
eddies
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(水、烟等的)漩涡,涡流( eddy的名词复数 ) | |
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411
circumference
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n.圆周,周长,圆周线 | |
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412
fissures
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n.狭长裂缝或裂隙( fissure的名词复数 );裂伤;分歧;分裂v.裂开( fissure的第三人称单数 ) | |
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413
promontories
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n.岬,隆起,海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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414
maize
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n.玉米 | |
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415
dominion
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n.统治,管辖,支配权;领土,版图 | |
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416
docility
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n.容易教,易驾驶,驯服 | |
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417
trumpets
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喇叭( trumpet的名词复数 ); 小号; 喇叭形物; (尤指)绽开的水仙花 | |
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418
dismal
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adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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419
choir
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n.唱诗班,唱诗班的席位,合唱团,舞蹈团;v.合唱 | |
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420
flute
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n.长笛;v.吹笛 | |
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421
converse
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vi.谈话,谈天,闲聊;adv.相反的,相反 | |
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422
accomplished
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adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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423
intercourse
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n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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424
interrogate
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vt.讯问,审问,盘问 | |
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425
apathy
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n.漠不关心,无动于衷;冷淡 | |
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426
remarkable
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adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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427
mingled
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混合,混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 ); 混进,与…交往[联系] | |
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428
affinity
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n.亲和力,密切关系 | |
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429
delightful
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adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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430
gilded
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a.镀金的,富有的 | |
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431
nucleus
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n.核,核心,原子核 | |
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432
stony
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adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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433
lichens
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n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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434
cleaving
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v.劈开,剁开,割开( cleave的现在分词 ) | |
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435
evergreen
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n.常青树;adj.四季常青的 | |
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436
varied
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adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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437
aromatic
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adj.芳香的,有香味的 | |
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438
linen
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n.亚麻布,亚麻线,亚麻制品;adj.亚麻布制的,亚麻的 | |
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439
hemmed
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缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 ); 包围 | |
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440
fissured
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adj.裂缝的v.裂开( fissure的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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441
vestiges
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残余部分( vestige的名词复数 ); 遗迹; 痕迹; 毫不 | |
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442
descended
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a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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443
fathoms
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英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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444
witchcraft
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n.魔法,巫术 | |
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445
worthy
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adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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446
subterranean
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adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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447
elastic
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n.橡皮圈,松紧带;adj.有弹性的;灵活的 | |
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448
intercept
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vt.拦截,截住,截击 | |
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449
incessantly
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ad.不停地 | |
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450
jugglery
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n.杂耍,把戏 | |
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451
aurora
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n.极光 | |
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452
inscription
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n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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453
attests
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v.证明( attest的第三人称单数 );证实;声称…属实;使宣誓 | |
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454
reign
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n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;v.占优势 | |
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455
conjectures
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推测,猜想( conjecture的名词复数 ) | |
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456
analogous
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adj.相似的;类似的 | |
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457
precisely
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adv.恰好,正好,精确地,细致地 | |
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458
nourishment
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n.食物,营养品;营养情况 | |
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459
vigour
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(=vigor)n.智力,体力,精力 | |
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460
saccharine
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adj.奉承的,讨好的 | |
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461
steered
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v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 );操纵;控制;引导 | |
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462
warp
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vt.弄歪,使翘曲,使不正常,歪曲,使有偏见 | |
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463
entangled
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adj.卷入的;陷入的;被缠住的;缠在一起的v.使某人(某物/自己)缠绕,纠缠于(某物中),使某人(自己)陷入(困难或复杂的环境中)( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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464
vaults
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n.拱顶( vault的名词复数 );地下室;撑物跳高;墓穴 | |
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465
shun
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vt.避开,回避,避免 | |
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466
superfluous
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adj.过多的,过剩的,多余的 | |
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467
proceeding
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n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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468
extricate
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v.拯救,救出;解脱 | |
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469
populous
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adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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470
savages
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未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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471
devoted
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adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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472
awe
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n.敬畏,惊惧;vt.使敬畏,使惊惧 | |
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473
ERECTED
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adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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474
insolent
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adj.傲慢的,无理的 | |
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475
fugitives
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n.亡命者,逃命者( fugitive的名词复数 ) | |
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476
navigated
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v.给(船舶、飞机等)引航,导航( navigate的过去式和过去分词 );(从海上、空中等)横越;横渡;飞跃 | |
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477
lengthened
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(时间或空间)延长,伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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478
hoarse
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adj.嘶哑的,沙哑的 | |
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479
ferocious
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adj.凶猛的,残暴的,极度的,十分强烈的 | |
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480
decency
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n.体面,得体,合宜,正派,庄重 | |
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481
chalice
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n.圣餐杯;金杯毒酒 | |
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482
imperturbable
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adj.镇静的 | |
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483
severely
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adv.严格地;严厉地;非常恶劣地 | |
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484
irritation
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n.激怒,恼怒,生气 | |
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485
scorching
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adj. 灼热的 | |
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486
longitude
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n.经线,经度 | |
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487
imposing
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adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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