PARIS, July 30th, 1839.
We have arrived here just in time for the fêtes of July. — You have read, no doubt, of that glorious revolution which took place here nine years ago, and which is now commemorated3 annually4, in a pretty facetious5 manner, by gun-firing, student-processions, pole-climbing-for-silver-spoons, gold-watches and legs-of-mutton, monarchical6 orations8, and what not, and sanctioned, moreover, by Chamber9-of-Deputies, with a grant of a couple of hundred thousand francs to defray the expenses of all the crackers11, gun-firings, and legs-of-mutton aforesaid. There is a new fountain in the Place Louis Quinze, otherwise called the Place Louis Seize, or else the Place de la Révolution, or else the Place de la Concorde (who can say why?)— which, I am told, is to run bad wine during certain hours tomorrow, and there WOULD have been a review of the National Guards and the Line — only, since the Fieschi business, reviews are no joke, and so this latter part of the festivity has been discontinued.
Do you not laugh, O Pharos of Bungay, at the continuance of a humbug12 such as this? — at the humbugging anniversary of a humbug? The King of the Barricades13 is, next to the Emperor Nicholas, the most absolute Sovereign in Europe; yet there is not in the whole of this fair kingdom of France a single man who cares sixpence about him, or his dynasty: except, mayhap, a few hangers-on at the Chateau14, who eat his dinners, and put their hands in his purse. The feeling of loyalty15 is as dead as old Charles the Tenth; the Chambers16 have been laughed at, the country has been laughed at, all the successive ministries17 have been laughed at (and you know who is the wag that has amused himself with them all); and, behold18, here come three days at the end of July, and cannons20 think it necessary to fire off, squibs and crackers to blaze and fizz, fountains to run wine, kings to make speeches, and subjects to crawl up greasy21 mats-de-cocagne in token of gratitude22 and réjouissance publique! — My dear sir, in their aptitude23 to swallow, to utter, to enact24 humbugs25, these French people, from Majesty26 downwards27, beat all the other nations of this earth. In looking at these men, their manners, dresses, opinions, politics, actions, history, it is impossible to preserve a grave countenance28; instead of having Carlyle to write a History of the French Revolution, I often think it should be handed over to Dickens or Theodore Hook: and oh! where is the Rabelais to be the faithful historian of the last phase of the Revolution — the last glorious nine years of which we are now commemorating29 the last glorious three days?
I had made a vow30 not to say a syllable31 on the subject, although I have seen, with my neighbors, all the gingerbread stalls down the Champs Elysées, and some of the “catafalques” erected32 to the memory of the heroes of July, where the students and others, not connected personally with the victims, and not having in the least profited by their deaths, come and weep; but the grief shown on the first day is quite as absurd and fictitious33 as the joy exhibited on the last. The subject is one which admits of much wholesome34 reflection and food for mirth; and, besides, is so richly treated by the French themselves, that it would be a sin and a shame to pass it over. Allow me to have the honor of translating, for your edification, an account of the first day’s proceedings36 — it is mighty37 amusing, to my thinking.
“CELEBRATION OF THE DAYS OF JULY.
“To-day (Saturday), funeral ceremonies, in honor of the victims of July, were held in the various edifices38 consecrated39 to public worship.
“These edifices, with the exception of some churches (especially that of the Petits-Pères), were uniformly hung with black on the outside; the hangings bore only this inscription40: 27, 28, 29 July, 1830 — surrounded by a wreath of oak-leaves.
“In the interior of the Catholic churches, it had only been thought proper to dress LITTLE CATAFALQUES, as for burials of the third and fourth class. Very few clergy41 attended; but a considerable number of the National Guard.
“The Synagogue of the Israelites was entirely42 hung with black; and a great concourse of people attended. The service was performed with the greatest pomp.
“In the Protestant temples there was likewise a very full attendance: APOLOGETICAL DISCOURSES43 on the Revolution of July were pronounced by the pastors44.
“The absence of M. de Quélen (Archbishop of Paris), and of many members of the superior clergy, was remarked at Notre Dame45.
“The civil authorities attended service in their several districts.
“The poles, ornamented46 with tri-colored flags, which formerly47 were placed on Notre Dame, were, it was remarked, suppressed. The flags on the Pont Neuf were, during the ceremony, only half-mast high, and covered with crape.”
Et caetera, et caetera, et caetera.
“The tombs of the Louvre were covered with black hangings, and adorned48 with tri-colored flags. In front and in the middle was erected an expiatory49 monument of a pyramidical shape, and surmounted50 by a funeral vase.
“These tombs were guarded by the MUNICIPAL GUARD, THE TROOPS OF THE LINE, THE SERGENS DE VILLE (town patrol), AND A BRIGADE OF AGENTS OF POLICE IN PLAIN CLOTHES, under the orders of peace-officer Vassal51.
“Between eleven and twelve o’clock, some young men, to the number of 400 or 500, assembled on the Place de la Bourse, one of them bearing a tri-colored banner with an inscription, ‘TO THE MANES OF JULY:’ ranging themselves in order, they marched five abreast52 to the Marché des Innocens. On their arrival, the Municipal Guards of the Halle aux Draps, where the post had been doubled, issued out without arms, and the town-sergeants placed themselves before the market to prevent the entry of the procession. The young men passed in perfect order, and without saying a word — only lifting their hats as they defiled53 before the tombs. When they arrived at the Louvre they found the gates shut, and the garden evacuated54. The troops were under arms, and formed in battalion55.
“After the passage of the procession, the Garden was again open to the public.”
And the evening and the morning were the first day.
There’s nothing serious in mortality: is there, from the beginning of this account to the end thereof, aught but sheer, open, monstrous56, undisguised humbug? I said, before, that you should have a history of these people by Dickens or Theodore Hook, but there is little need of professed57 wags; — do not the men write their own tale with an admirable Sancho-like gravity and na?veté, which one could not desire improved? How good is that touch of sly indignation about the LITTLE CATAFALQUES! how rich the contrast presented by the economy of the Catholics to the splendid disregard of expense exhibited by the devout58 Jews! and how touching59 the “APOLOGETICAL DISCOURSES on the Revolution,” delivered by the Protestant pastors! Fancy the profound affliction of the Gardes Municipaux, the Sergens de Ville, the police agents in plain clothes, and the troops with fixed60 bayonets, sobbing61 round the “expiatory monuments of a pyramidical shape, surmounted by funeral vases,” and compelled, by sad duty, to fire into the public who might wish to indulge in the same woe62! O “manes of July!” (the phrase is pretty and grammatical) why did you with sharp bullets break those Louvre windows? Why did you bayonet red-coated Swiss behind that fair white fa?ade, and, braving cannon19, musket63, sabre, perspective guillotine, burst yonder bronze gates, rush through that peaceful picture-gallery, and hurl64 royalty65, loyalty, and a thousand years of Kings, head-over-heels out of yonder Tuileries’ windows?
It is, you will allow, a little difficult to say:— there is, however, ONE benefit that the country has gained (as for liberty of press, or person, diminished taxation66, a juster representation, who ever thinks of them?)— ONE benefit they have gained, or nearly — abolition67 de la peine-de-mort pour délit politique: no more wicked guillotining for revolutions. A Frenchman must have his revolution — it is his nature to knock down omnibuses in the street, and across them to fire at troops of the line — it is a sin to balk68 it. Did not the King send off Revolutionary Prince Napoleon in a coach-and-four? Did not the jury, before the face of God and Justice, proclaim Revolutionary Colonel Vaudrey not guilty? — One may hope, soon, that if a man shows decent courage and energy in half a dozen émeutes, he will get promotion69 and a premium70.
I do not (although, perhaps, partial to the subject,) want to talk more nonsense than the occasion warrants, and will pray you to cast your eyes over the following anecdote71, that is now going the round of the papers, and respects the commutation of the punishment of that wretched, fool-hardy Barbés, who, on his trial, seemed to invite the penalty which has just been remitted72 to him. You recollect73 the braggart’s speech: “When the Indian falls into the power of the enemy, he knows the fate that awaits him, and submits his head to the knife:— I am the Indian!”
“Well —”
“M. Hugo was at the Opera on the night the sentence of the Court of Peers, condemning74 Barbés to death, was published. The great poet composed the following verses:—
‘Par2 votre ange envolée, ainsi qu’une colombe,
Par le royal enfant, doux et frêle roseau,
Grace encore une fois! Grace au nom de la tombe!
Grace au nom du ber?eau!’1
“M. Victor Hugo wrote the lines out instantly on a sheet of paper, which he folded, and simply despatched them to the King of the French by the penny-post.
“That truly is a noble voice, which can at all hours thus speak to the throne. Poetry, in old days, was called the language of the Gods — it is better named now — it is the language of the Kings.
“But the clemency75 of the King had anticipated the letter of the Poet. His Majesty had signed the commutation of Barbés, while the poet was still writing.
“Louis Philippe replied to the author of ‘Ruy Blas’ most graciously, that he had already subscribed76 to a wish so noble, and that the verses had only confirmed his previous disposition77 to mercy.”
1 Translated for the benefit of country gentlemen:—
“By your angel flown away just like a dove,
By the royal infant, that frail78 and tender reed,
Pardon yet once more! Pardon in the name of the tomb!
Pardon in the name of the cradle!”
Now in countries where fools most abound79, did one ever read of more monstrous, palpable folly80? In any country, save this, would a poet who chose to write four crack-brained verses, comparing an angel to a dove, and a little boy to a reed, and calling upon the chief magistrate81, in the name of the angel, or dove (the Princess Mary), in her tomb, and the little infant in his cradle, to spare a criminal, have received a “gracious answer” to his nonsense? Would he have ever despatched the nonsense? and would any journalist have been silly enough to talk of “the noble voice that could thus speak to the throne,” and the noble throne that could return such a noble answer to the noble voice? You get nothing done here gravely and decently. Tawdry stage tricks are played, and braggadocio82 claptraps uttered, on every occasion, however sacred or solemn: in the face of death, as by Barbés with his hideous83 Indian metaphor84; in the teeth of reason, as by M. Victor Hugo with his twopenny-post poetry; and of justice, as by the King’s absurd reply to this absurd demand! Suppose the Count of Paris to be twenty times a reed, and the Princess Mary a host of angels, is that any reason why the law should not have its course? Justice is the God of our lower world, our great omnipresent guardian85: as such it moves, or should move on majestic86, awful, irresistible87, having no passions — like a God: but, in the very midst of the path across which it is to pass, lo! M. Victor Hugo trips forward, smirking88, and says, O divine Justice! I will trouble you to listen to the following trifling89 effusion of mine:—
Par votre ange envolée, ainsi qu’une,” &c.
Awful Justice stops, and, bowing gravely, listens to M. Hugo’s verses, and, with true French politeness, says, “Mon cher Monsieur, these verses are charming, ravissans, délicieux, and, coming from such a célébrité littéraire as yourself, shall meet with every possible attention — in fact, had I required anything to confirm my own previous opinions, this charming poem would have done so. Bon jour, mon cher Monsieur Hugo, au revoir!”— and they part:— Justice taking off his hat and bowing, and the author of “Ruy Blas” quite convinced that he has been treating with him d’égal en égal. I can hardly bring my mind to fancy that anything is serious in France — it seems to be all rant10, tinsel, and stage-play. Sham35 liberty, sham monarchy91, sham glory, sham justice — où diable donc la vérité va-t-elle se nicher?
. . . . . .
The last rocket of the fête of July has just mounted, exploded, made a portentous92 bang, and emitted a gorgeous show of blue lights, and then (like many reputations) disappeared totally: the hundredth gun on the Invalid93 terrace has uttered its last roar — and a great comfort it is for eyes and ears that the festival is over. We shall be able to go about our everyday business again, and not be hustled94 by the gendarmes95 or the crowd.
The sight which I have just come away from is as brilliant, happy, and beautiful as can be conceived; and if you want to see French people to the greatest advantage, you should go to a festival like this, where their manners, and innocent gayety, show a very pleasing contrast to the coarse and vulgar hilarity96 which the same class would exhibit in our own country — at Epsom racecourse, for instance, or Greenwich Fair. The greatest noise that I heard was that of a company of jolly villagers from a place in the neighborhood of Paris, who, as soon as the fireworks were over, formed themselves into a line, three or four abreast, and so marched singing home. As for the fireworks, squibs and crackers are very hard to describe, and very little was to be seen of them: to me, the prettiest sight was the vast, orderly, happy crowd, the number of children, and the extraordinary care and kindness of the parents towards these little creatures. It does one good to see honest, heavy épiciers, fathers of families, playing with them in the Tuileries, or, as to-night, bearing them stoutly97 on their shoulders, through many long hours, in order that the little ones too may have their share of the fun. John Bull, I fear, is more selfish: he does not take Mrs. Bull to the public-house; but leaves her, for the most part, to take care of the children at home.
The fête, then, is over; the pompous98 black pyramid at the Louvre is only a skeleton now; all the flags have been miraculously99 whisked away during the night, and the fine chandeliers which glittered down the Champs Elysées for full half a mile, have been consigned100 to their dens101 and darkness. Will they ever be reproduced for other celebrations of the glorious 29th of July? — I think not; the Government which vowed102 that there should be no more persecutions of the press, was, on that very 29th, seizing a Legitimist paper, for some real or fancied offence against it: it had seized, and was seizing daily, numbers of persons merely suspected of being disaffected103 (and you may fancy how liberty is understood, when some of these prisoners, the other day, on coming to trial, were found guilty and sentenced to ONE day’s imprisonment104, after THIRTY-SIX DAYS’ DETENTION105 ON SUSPICION). I think the Government which follows such a system, cannot be very anxious about any farther revolutionary fêtes, and that the Chamber may reasonably refuse to vote more money for them. Why should men be so mighty proud of having, on a certain day, cut a certain number of their fellow-countrymen’s throats? The Guards and the Line employed this time nine years did no more than those who cannonaded the starving Lyonnese, or bayoneted the luckless inhabitants of the Rue90 Transnounain:— they did but fulfil the soldier’s honorable duty:— his superiors bid him kill and he killeth:— perhaps, had he gone to his work with a little more heart, the result would have been different, and then — would the conquering party have been justified106 in annually rejoicing over the conquered? Would we have thought Charles X. justified in causing fireworks to be blazed, and concerts to be sung, and speeches to be spouted107, in commemoration of his victory over his slaughtered108 countrymen? — I wish for my part they would allow the people to go about their business as on the other 362 days of the year, and leave the Champs Elysées free for the omnibuses to run, and the Tuileries’ in quiet, so that the nurse-maids might come as usual, and the newspapers be read for a halfpenny apiece.
Shall I trouble you with an account of the speculations109 of these latter, and the state of the parties which they represent? The complication is not a little curious, and may form, perhaps, a subject of graver disquisition. The July fêtes occupy, as you may imagine, a considerable part of their columns just now, and it is amusing to follow them one by one; to read Tweedledum’s praise, and Tweedledee’s indignation — to read, in the Débats how the King was received with shouts and loyal vivats — in the Nation, how not a tongue was wagged in his praise, but, on the instant of his departure, how the people called for the “Marseillaise” and applauded THAT. — But best say no more about the fête. The Legitimists were always indignant at it. The high Philippist party sneers110 at and despises it; the Republicans hate it: it seems a joke against THEM. Why continue it? — If there be anything sacred in the name and idea of loyalty, why renew this fête? It only shows how a rightful monarch7 was hurled111 from his throne, and a dexterous112 usurper113 stole his precious diadem114. If there be anything noble in the memory of a day, when citizens, unused to war, rose against practised veterans, and, armed with the strength of their cause, overthrew115 them, why speak of it now? or renew the bitter recollections of the bootless struggle and victory? O Lafayette! O hero of two worlds! O accomplished116 Cromwell Grandison! you have to answer for more than any mortal man who has played a part in history: two republics and one monarchy does the world owe to you; and especially grateful should your country be to you. Did you not, in ‘90, make clear the path for honest Robespierre, and in ‘30, prepare the way for —
. . . . . .
[The Editor of the Bungay Beacon would insert no more of this letter, which is, therefore, for ever lost to the public.]
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beacon
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| n.烽火，（警告用的）闪火灯，灯塔 | |
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par
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| n.标准，票面价值，平均数量；adj.票面的，平常的，标准的 | |
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commemorated
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| v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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facetious
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| adj.轻浮的，好开玩笑的 | |
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monarchical
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| adj. 国王的，帝王的，君主的，拥护君主制的 =monarchic | |
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monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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orations
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| n.（正式仪式中的）演说，演讲( oration的名词复数 ) | |
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chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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rant
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| v.咆哮；怒吼；n.大话；粗野的话 | |
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crackers
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| adj.精神错乱的，癫狂的n.爆竹( cracker的名词复数 )；薄脆饼干；（认为）十分愉快的事；迷人的姑娘 | |
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humbug
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| n.花招，谎话，欺骗 | |
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barricades
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| 路障，障碍物( barricade的名词复数 ) | |
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chateau
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| n.城堡，别墅 | |
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loyalty
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| n.忠诚，忠心 | |
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chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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ministries
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| （政府的）部( ministry的名词复数 )； 神职； 牧师职位； 神职任期 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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cannons
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| n.加农炮，大炮，火炮( cannon的名词复数 ) | |
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greasy
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| adj. 多脂的，油脂的 | |
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gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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aptitude
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| n.(学习方面的)才能，资质，天资 | |
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enact
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| vt.制定(法律)；上演，扮演 | |
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humbugs
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| 欺骗( humbug的名词复数 )； 虚伪； 骗子； 薄荷硬糖 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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commemorating
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| v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的现在分词 ) | |
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vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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syllable
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| n.音节；vt.分音节 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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fictitious
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| adj.虚构的，假设的；空头的 | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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sham
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| n./adj.假冒(的)，虚伪(的) | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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consecrated
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| adj.神圣的，被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣，给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 )；奉献 | |
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inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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discourses
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| 论文( discourse的名词复数 )； 演说； 讲道； 话语 | |
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pastors
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| n.（基督教的）牧师( pastor的名词复数 ) | |
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dame
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| n.女士 | |
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ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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expiatory
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| adj.赎罪的，补偿的 | |
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surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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vassal
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| n.附庸的；属下；adj.奴仆的 | |
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abreast
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| adv.并排地；跟上(时代)的步伐，与…并进地 | |
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defiled
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| v.玷污( defile的过去式和过去分词 )；污染；弄脏；纵列行进 | |
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evacuated
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| 撤退者的 | |
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battalion
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| n.营；部队；大队(的人) | |
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monstrous
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| adj.巨大的；恐怖的；可耻的，丢脸的 | |
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professed
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| 公开声称的，伪称的，已立誓信教的 | |
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devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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sobbing
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| <主方>Ⅰ adj.湿透的 | |
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woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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musket
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| n.滑膛枪 | |
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hurl
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| vt.猛投，力掷，声叫骂 | |
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royalty
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| n.皇家，皇族 | |
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taxation
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| n.征税，税收，税金 | |
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abolition
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| n.废除，取消 | |
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68
balk
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| n.大方木料；v.妨碍；不愿前进或从事某事 | |
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promotion
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| n.提升，晋级；促销，宣传 | |
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premium
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| n.加付款；赠品；adj.高级的；售价高的 | |
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anecdote
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| n.轶事，趣闻，短故事 | |
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remitted
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| v.免除（债务），宽恕( remit的过去式和过去分词 )；使某事缓和；寄回，传送 | |
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recollect
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| v.回忆，想起，记起，忆起，记得 | |
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74
condemning
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| v.（通常因道义上的原因而）谴责( condemn的现在分词 )；宣判；宣布…不能使用；迫使…陷于不幸的境地 | |
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clemency
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| n.温和，仁慈，宽厚 | |
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subscribed
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| v.捐助( subscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；签署，题词；订阅；同意 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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frail
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| adj.身体虚弱的；易损坏的 | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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braggadocio
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| n.吹牛大王 | |
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83
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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metaphor
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| n.隐喻，暗喻 | |
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guardian
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| n.监护人；守卫者，保护者 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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smirking
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| v.傻笑( smirk的现在分词 ) | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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monarchy
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| n.君主，最高统治者；君主政体，君主国 | |
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portentous
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| adj.不祥的，可怕的，装腔作势的 | |
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invalid
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| n.病人，伤残人；adj.有病的，伤残的；无效的 | |
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hustled
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| 催促（hustle的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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95
gendarmes
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| n.宪兵，警官( gendarme的名词复数 ) | |
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96
hilarity
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| n.欢乐；热闹 | |
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stoutly
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| adv.牢固地，粗壮的 | |
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98
pompous
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| adj.傲慢的，自大的；夸大的；豪华的 | |
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99
miraculously
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| ad.奇迹般地 | |
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100
consigned
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| v.把…置于（令人不快的境地）( consign的过去式和过去分词 )；把…托付给；把…托人代售；丟弃 | |
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dens
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| n.牙齿，齿状部分；兽窝( den的名词复数 )；窝点；休息室；书斋 | |
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102
vowed
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| 起誓，发誓（vow的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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103
disaffected
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| adj.（政治上）不满的，叛离的 | |
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104
imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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105
detention
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| n.滞留，停留；拘留，扣留；(教育)留下 | |
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106
justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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107
spouted
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| adj.装有嘴的v.（指液体）喷出( spout的过去式和过去分词 )；滔滔不绝地讲；喋喋不休地说；喷水 | |
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108
slaughtered
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| v.屠杀，杀戮，屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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109
speculations
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| n.投机买卖( speculation的名词复数 )；思考；投机活动；推断 | |
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110
sneers
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| 讥笑的表情（言语）( sneer的名词复数 ) | |
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111
hurled
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 )；大声叫骂 | |
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112
dexterous
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| adj.灵敏的；灵巧的 | |
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113
usurper
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| n. 篡夺者, 僭取者 | |
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114
diadem
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| n.王冠，冕 | |
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115
overthrew
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| overthrow的过去式 | |
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116
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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