This morning walk did not lay the foundation of a habit of early rising in me, but I nevertheless advise people always to get up at half-past four, if they wish to receive the most vivid impressions, and to take the most absorbing interest in every thing in the world. It was with a feeling absolutely novel that I looked about me that morning, and there was a breezy freshness and clearness in my perceptions altogether delightful3, and I fraternized so cordially with Nature that I do not think, if I had sat down immediately after to write out the experience, I should have at all patronized her, as I am afraid scribbling4 people have sometimes the custom to do. I know that my feeling of brotherhood5 in the case of two sparrows, which obliged me by hopping6 down from a garden wall at the end of Calle Falier and promenading7 on the pavement, was quite humble8 and sincere; and that I resented the ill-nature of a cat,
“Whom love kept wakeful and the muse,”
and who at that hour was spitefully reviling9 the morn from a window grating. As I went by the gate of the Canonico’s little garden, the flowers saluted10 me with a breath of perfume,—I think the white honey-suckle was first to offer me this politeness,—and the dumpy little statues looked far more engaging than usual.
After passing the bridge, the first thing to do was to drink a cup of coffee at the Caffè Ponte di Ferro, where the eyebrows11 of the waiter expressed a mild surprise at my early presence. There was no one else in the place but an old gentleman talking thoughtfully to himself on the subject of two florins, while he poured his coffee into a glass of water, before drinking it. As I lingered a moment over my cup, I was reinforced by the appearance of a company of soldiers, marching to parade in the Campo di Marte. Their officers went at their head, laughing and chatting, and one of the lieutenants12 smoking a long pipe, gave me a feeling of satisfaction only comparable to that which I experienced shortly afterward13 in beholding14 a stoutly15 built small dog on the Ponte di San Moisè. The creature was only a few inches high, and it must have been through some mist of dreams yet hanging about me that he impressed me as having something elephantine in his manner. When I stooped down and patted him on the head, I felt colossal16.
On my way to the Piazza17, I stopped in the church of Saint Mary of the Lily, where, in company with one other sinner, I found a relish18 in the early sacristan’s deliberate manner of lighting19 the candles on the altar. Saint Mary of the Lily has a fa?ade in the taste of the declining Renaissance20. The interior is in perfect keeping, and all is hideous21, abominable22, and abandoned. My fellow-sinner was kneeling, and repeating his prayers. He now and then tapped himself absent-mindedly on the breast and forehead, and gave a good deal of his attention to me as I stood at the door, hat in hand. The hour and the place invested him with so much interest, that I parted from him with emotion. My feelings were next involved by an abrupt23 separation from a young English East-Indian, whom I overheard asking the keeper of a caffè his way to the Campo di Marte. He was a claret-colored young fellow, tall, and wearing folds of white muslin around his hat. In another world I trust to know how he liked the parade that morning.
I discovered that Piazza San Marco is every morning swept by troops of ragged24 facchini, who gossip noisily and quarrelsomely together over their work. Boot-blacks, also, were in attendance, and several followed my progress through the square, in the vague hope that I would relent and have my boots blacked. One peerless waiter stood alone amid the desert elegance25 of Caffè Florian, which is never shut, day or night, from year to year. At the Caffè of the Greeks, two individuals of the Greek nation were drinking coffee.
I went upon the Molo, passing between the pillars of the Lion and the Saint, and walked freely back and forth, taking in the glory of that prospect26 of water and of vague islands breaking the silver of the lagoons27, like those scenes cunningly wrought28 in apparent relief on old Venetian mirrors. I walked there freely, for though there were already many gondoliers at the station, not one took me for a foreigner or offered me a boat. At that hour, I was in myself so improbable, that if they saw me at all, I must have appeared to them as a dream. My sense of security was sweet, but it was false, for on going into the church of St. Mark, the keener eye of the sacristan detected me. He instantly offered to show me the Zeno Chapel29; but I declined, preferring the church, where I found the space before the high altar filled with market-people come to hear the early mass. As I passed out of the church, I witnessed the partial awaking of a Venetian gentleman who had spent the night in a sitting posture30, between the columns of the main entrance. He looked puffy, scornful, and uncomfortable, and at the moment of falling back to slumber31, tried to smoke an unlighted cigarette, which he held between his lips. I found none of the shops open as I passed through the Merceria, and but for myself, and here and there a laborer32 going to work, the busy thoroughfare seemed deserted33. In the mere34 wantonness of power, and the security of solitude35, I indulged myself in snapping several door-latches, which gave me a pleasure as keen as that enjoyed in boyhood from passing a stick along the pickets36 of a fence. I was in nowise abashed37 to be discovered in this amusement by an old peasant-woman, bearing at either end of a yoke38 the usual basket with bottles of milk packed in straw.
Entering Campo San Bartolomeo, I found trade already astir in that noisy place; the voice of cheap bargains, which by noonday swells39 into an intolerable uproar40, was beginning to be heard. Having lived in Campo San Bartolomeo, I recognized several familiar faces there, and particularly noted41 among them that of a certain fruit-vender, who frequently swindled me in my small dealings with him. He now sat before his stand, and for a man of a fat and greasy42 presence, looked very fresh and brisk, and as if he had passed a pleasant night.
On the other side of the Rialto Bridge, the market was preparing for the purchasers. Butchers were arranging their shops; fruit-stands, and stands for the sale of crockery, and—as I must say for want of a better word, if there is any—notions, were in a state of tasteful readiness. The person on the steps of the bridge who had exposed his stock of cheap clothing and coarse felt hats on the parapet, had so far completed his preparations as to have leisure to be talking himself hot and hoarse43 with the neighboring barber. He was in a perfectly44 good humor, and was merely giving a dramatic flavor to some question of six soldi.
At the landings of the market-place squadrons of boats loaded with vegetables were arriving and unloading. Peasants were building cabbages into pyramids; collective squashes and cucumbers were taking a picturesque45 shape; wreaths of garlic and garlands of onions graced the scene. All the people were clamoring at the tops of their voices; and in the midst of the tumult46 and confusion, resting on heaps of cabbage-leaves and garbage, men lay on their bellies47 sweetly sleeping. Numbers of eating-houses were sending forth a savory48 smell, and everywhere were breakfasters with bowls of sguassetto. In one of the shops, somewhat prouder than the rest, a heated brunette was turning sections of eel2 on a gridiron, and hurriedly coqueting with the purchasers. Singularly calm amid all this bustle49 was the countenance50 of the statue called the Gobbo, as I looked at it in the centre of the market-place. The Gobbo (who is not a hunchback, either) was patiently supporting his burden, and looking with a quiet, thoughtful frown upon the ground, as if pondering some dream of change that had come to him since the statutes51 of the haughty52 Republic were read aloud to the people from the stone tribune on his shoulders.
Indeed, it was a morning for thoughtful meditation53; and as I sat at the feet of the four granite54 kings shortly after, waiting for the gate of the ducal palace to be opened, that I might see the girls drawing the water, I studied the group of the Judgment55 of Solomon, on the corner of the palace, and arrived at an entirely56 new interpretation57 of that Bible story, which I have now wholly forgotten.
The gate remained closed too long for my patience, and I turned away from a scene momently losing its interest. The brilliant little shops opened like hollyhocks as I went home; the swelling58 tide of life filled the streets, and brought Venice back to my day-time remembrance, robbing her of that keen, delightful charm with which she greeted my early morning sense.
点击收听单词发音
1 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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2 eel | |
n.鳗鲡 | |
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3 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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4 scribbling | |
n.乱涂[写]胡[乱]写的文章[作品]v.潦草的书写( scribble的现在分词 );乱画;草草地写;匆匆记下 | |
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5 brotherhood | |
n.兄弟般的关系,手中情谊 | |
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6 hopping | |
n. 跳跃 动词hop的现在分词形式 | |
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7 promenading | |
v.兜风( promenade的现在分词 ) | |
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8 humble | |
adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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9 reviling | |
v.辱骂,痛斥( revile的现在分词 ) | |
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10 saluted | |
v.欢迎,致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 );赞扬,赞颂 | |
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11 eyebrows | |
眉毛( eyebrow的名词复数 ) | |
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12 lieutenants | |
n.陆军中尉( lieutenant的名词复数 );副职官员;空军;仅低于…官阶的官员 | |
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13 afterward | |
adv.后来;以后 | |
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14 beholding | |
v.看,注视( behold的现在分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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15 stoutly | |
adv.牢固地,粗壮的 | |
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16 colossal | |
adj.异常的,庞大的 | |
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17 piazza | |
n.广场;走廊 | |
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18 relish | |
n.滋味,享受,爱好,调味品;vt.加调味料,享受,品味;vi.有滋味 | |
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19 lighting | |
n.照明,光线的明暗,舞台灯光 | |
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20 renaissance | |
n.复活,复兴,文艺复兴 | |
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21 hideous | |
adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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22 abominable | |
adj.可厌的,令人憎恶的 | |
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23 abrupt | |
adj.突然的,意外的;唐突的,鲁莽的 | |
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24 ragged | |
adj.衣衫褴褛的,粗糙的,刺耳的 | |
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25 elegance | |
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
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26 prospect | |
n.前景,前途;景色,视野 | |
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27 lagoons | |
n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 );潟湖;(大湖或江河附近的)小而浅的淡水湖;温泉形成的池塘 | |
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28 wrought | |
v.引起;以…原料制作;运转;adj.制造的 | |
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29 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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30 posture | |
n.姿势,姿态,心态,态度;v.作出某种姿势 | |
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31 slumber | |
n.睡眠,沉睡状态 | |
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32 laborer | |
n.劳动者,劳工 | |
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33 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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34 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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35 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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36 pickets | |
罢工纠察员( picket的名词复数 ) | |
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37 abashed | |
adj.窘迫的,尴尬的v.使羞愧,使局促,使窘迫( abash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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38 yoke | |
n.轭;支配;v.给...上轭,连接,使成配偶 | |
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39 swells | |
增强( swell的第三人称单数 ); 肿胀; (使)凸出; 充满(激情) | |
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40 uproar | |
n.骚动,喧嚣,鼎沸 | |
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41 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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42 greasy | |
adj. 多脂的,油脂的 | |
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43 hoarse | |
adj.嘶哑的,沙哑的 | |
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44 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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45 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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46 tumult | |
n.喧哗;激动,混乱;吵闹 | |
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47 bellies | |
n.肚子( belly的名词复数 );腹部;(物体的)圆形或凸起部份;腹部…形的 | |
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48 savory | |
adj.风味极佳的,可口的,味香的 | |
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49 bustle | |
v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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50 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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51 statutes | |
成文法( statute的名词复数 ); 法令; 法规; 章程 | |
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52 haughty | |
adj.傲慢的,高傲的 | |
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53 meditation | |
n.熟虑,(尤指宗教的)默想,沉思,(pl.)冥想录 | |
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54 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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55 judgment | |
n.审判;判断力,识别力,看法,意见 | |
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56 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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57 interpretation | |
n.解释,说明,描述;艺术处理 | |
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58 swelling | |
n.肿胀 | |
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