“Sunny spots of greenery,”
with the bell-towers of demolished9 cloisters10 shadowily showing above their trees;—for in the days of the Republic nearly every one of the islands had its monastery11 and its church. At present the greater number have been fortified12 by the Austrians, whose sentinel paces the once-peaceful shores, and challenges all passers with his sharp ”Halt! Wer da!” and warns them not to approach too closely. Other islands have been devoted13 to different utilitarian14 purposes, and few are able to keep their distant promises of loveliness. One of the more faithful is the island of San Clemente, on which the old convent church is yet standing15, empty and forlorn within, but without all draped in glossy16 ivy17. After I had learned to row in the gondolier fashion, I voyaged much in the lagoon with my boat, and often stopped at this church. It has a curious feature in the chapel18 of the Madonna di Loreto, which is built in the middle of the nave19, faced with marble, roofed, and isolated20 from the walls of the main edifice21 on all sides. On the back of this there is a bass-relief in bronze, representing the Nativity—a work much in the spirit of the bass-reliefs in San Giovanni e Paolo; and one of the chapels22 has an exquisite23 little altar, with gleaming columns of porphyry. There has been no service in the church for many years; and this altar had a strangely pathetic effect, won from the black four-cornered cap of a priest that lay before it, like an offering. I wondered who the priest was that wore it, and why he had left it there, as if he had fled away in haste. I might have thought it looked like the signal of the abdication24 of a system; the gondolier who was with me took it up and reviled25 it as representative of birbanti matricolati, who fed upon the poor, and in whose expulsion from that island he rejoiced. But he had little reason to do so, since the last use of the place was for the imprisonment26 of refractory27 ecclesiastics29. Some of the tombs of the Morosini are in San Clemente—villanous monuments, with bronze Deaths popping out of apertures31, and holding marble scrolls32 inscribed33 with undying deeds. Indeed, nearly all the decorations of the poor old church are horrible, and there is one statue in it meant for an angel, with absolutely the most lascivious34 face I ever saw in marble.
The islands near Venice are all small, except the Giudecca (which is properly a part of the city), the Lido, and Murano. The Giudecca, from being anciently the bounds in which certain factious35 nobles were confined, was later laid out in pleasure-gardens, and built up with summer-palaces. The gardens still remain to some extent; but they are now chiefly turned to practical account in raising vegetables and fruits for the Venetian market, and the palaces have been converted into warehouses36 and factories. This island produces a variety of beggar, the most truculent37 and tenacious38 in all Venice, and it has a convent of lazy Capuchin friars, who are likewise beggars. To them belongs the church of the Redentore, which only the Madonnas of Bellini in the sacristy make worthy39 to be seen,—though the island is hardly less famed for this church than for the difficult etymology40 of its name.
At the eastern extremity41 of the Giudecca lies the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, with Palladio’s church of that name. There are some great Tintorettos in the church, and I like the beautiful wood-carvings in the choir42. The island has a sad interest from the political prison into which part of the old convent has been perverted43; and the next island eastward44 is the scarcely sadder abode46 of the mad. Then comes the fair and happy seat of Armenian learning and piety47, San Lazzaro, and then the Lido.
The Lido is the sea-shore, and thither48 in more cheerful days the Venetians used to resort in great numbers on certain holidays, called the Mondays of the Lido, to enjoy the sea-breeze and the country scenery, and to lunch upon the flat tombs of the Hebrews, buried there in exile from the consecrated49 Christian50 ground. On a summer’s day there the sun glares down upon the sand and flat gravestones, and it seems the most desolate51 place where one’s bones might be laid. The Protestants were once also interred52 on the Lido, but now they rest (apart from the Catholics, however) in the cemetery53 of San Michele.
The island is long and narrow: it stretches between the lagoons and the sea, with a village at either end, and with bath-houses on the beach, which is everywhere faced with forts. There are some poor little trees there, and grass,—things which we were thrice a week grateful for, when we went thither to bathe. I do not know whether it will give the place further interest to say, that it was among the tombs of the Hebrews Cooper’s ingenious Bravo had the incredible good luck to hide himself from the sbirri of the Republic; or to relate that it was the habit of Lord Byron to gallop54 up and down the Lido in search of that conspicuous55 solitude56 of which the sincere bard57 was fond.
One day of the first summer I spent in Venice (three years of Venetian life afterward58 removed it back into times of the remotest antiquity59), a friend and I had the now-incredible enterprise to walk from one end of the Lido to the other,—from the port of San Nicolò (through which the Bucintoro passed when the Doges went to espouse60 the Adriatic) to the port of Malamocco, at the southern extremity.
We began with that delicious bath which you may have in the Adriatic, where the light surf breaks with a pensive61 cadence62 on the soft sand, all strewn with brilliant shells. The Adriatic is the bluest water I have ever seen; and it is an ineffable63, lazy delight to lie and watch the fishing sails of purple and yellow dotting its surface, and the greater ships dipping down its utmost rim64. It was particularly good to do this after coming out of the water; but our American blood could not brook65 much repose66, and we got up presently, and started on our walk to the little village of Malamocco, some three miles away. The double-headed eagle keeps watch and ward45 from a continuous line of forts along the shore, and the white-coated sentinels never cease to pace the bastions, night or day. Their vision of the sea must not be interrupted by even so much as the form of a stray passer; and as we went by the forts, we had to descend67 from the sea-wall, and walk under it, until we got beyond the sentry68’s beat. The crimson69 poppies grow everywhere on this sandy little isle1, and they fringe the edges of the bastions with their bloom, as if the “blood-red blossoms of war” had there sprung from the seeds of battle sown in old forgotten fights. But otherwise the forts were not very engaging in appearance. A sentry-box of yellow and black, a sentry, a row of seaward frowning cannon70—there was not much in all this to interest us; and so we walked idly along, and looked either to the city rising from the lagoons on one hand, or the ships going down the sea on the other. In the fields, along the road, were vines and Indian corn; but instead of those effigies71 of humanity, doubly fearful from their wide unlikeness to any thing human, which we contrive72 to scare away the birds, the devout73 peasant-folks had here displayed on poles the instruments of the Passion of the Lord—the hammer, the cords, the nails—which at once protected and blessed the fields. But I doubt if even these would save them from the New-World pigs, and certainly the fences here would not turn pork, for they are made of a matting of reeds, woven together, and feebly secured to tremulous posts. The fields were well cultivated, and the vines and garden vegetables looked flourishing; but the corn was spindling, and had, I thought, a homesick look, as if it dreamed vainly of wide ancestral bottom-lands, on the mighty74 streams that run through the heart of the Great West. The Italians call our corn gran turco, but I knew that it was for the West that it yearned75, and not for the East.
No doubt there were once finer dwellings76 than the peasants’ houses which are now the only habitations on the Lido; and I suspect that a genteel villa30 must formerly77 have stood near the farm-gate, which we found surmounted78 by broken statues of Venus and Diana. The poor goddesses were both headless, and some cruel fortune had struck off their hands, and they looked strangely forlorn in the swaggering attitudes of the absurd period of art to which they belonged: they extended their mutilated arms toward the sea for pity, but it regarded them not; and we passed before them scoffing79 at their bad taste, for we were hungry, and it was yet some distance to Malamocco.
This dirty little village was the capital of the Venetian islands before King Pepin and his Franks burned it, and the shifting sands of empire gathered solidly about the Rialto in Venice. It is a thousand years since that time, and Malamocco has long been given over to fishermen’s families and the soldiers of the forts. We found the latter lounging about the unwholesome streets; and the former seated at their thresholds, engaged in those pursuits of the chase which the use of a fine-tooth comb would undignify to mere81 slaughter82.
There is a church at Malamocco, but it was closed, and we could not find the sacristan; so we went to the little restaurant, as the next best place, and demanded something to eat. What had the padrone? He answered pretty much to the same effect as the innkeeper in “Don Quixote,” who told his guests that they could have any thing that walked on the earth, or swam in the sea, or flew in the air. We would take, then, some fish, or a bit of veal83, or some mutton chops. The padrone sweetly shrugged84 the shoulders of apology. There was nothing of all this, but what would we say to some liver or gizzards of chickens, fried upon the instant and ready the next breath? No, we did not want them; so we compromised on some ham fried in a batter85 of eggs, and reeking86 with its own fatness. The truth is, it was a very bad little lunch we made, and nothing redeemed87 it but the amiability88 of the smiling padrone and the bustling89 padrona, who served us as kings and princes. It was a clean hostelry, though, and that was a merit in Malamocco, of which the chief modern virtue90 is that it cannot hold you long. No doubt it was more interesting in other times. In the days when the Venetians chose it for their capital, it was a walled town, and fortified with towers. It has been more than once inundated91 by the sea, and it might again be washed out with advantage.
In the spring, two years after my visit to Malamocco, we people in Casa Falier made a long-intended expedition to the island of Torcello, which is perhaps the most interesting of the islands of the lagoons. We had talked of it all winter, and had acquired enough property there to put up some light Spanish castles on the desolate site of the ancient city, that, so many years ago, sickened of the swamp air and died. A Count from Torcello is the title which Venetian persiflage92 gives to improbable noblemen; and thus even the pride of the dead Republic of Torcello has passed into matter of scornful jest, as that of the dead Republic of Venice may likewise in its day.
When we leave the riva of Casa Falier, we pass down the Grand Canal, cross the Basin of St. Mark, and enter one of the narrow canals that intersect the Riva degli Schiavoni, whence we wind and deviate93 southwestward till we emerge near the church of San Giovanni e Paolo, on the Fondamenta Nuove. On our way we notice that a tree, hanging over the water from a little garden, is in full leaf, and at Murano we see the tender bloom of peaches and the drifted blossom of cherry-trees.
As we go by the Cemetery of San Michele, Piero the gondolier and Giovanna improve us with a little solemn pleasantry.
“It is a small place,” says Piero, “but there is room enough for all Venice in it.”
“It is true,” assents94 Giovanna, “and here we poor folks become landholders at last.”
At Murano we stop a moment to look at the old Duomo, and to enjoy its quaint95 mosaics96 within, and the fine and graceful97 spirit of the apsis without. It is very old, this architecture; but the eternal youth of the beautiful belongs to it, and there is scarce a stone fallen from it that I would replace.
The manufacture of glass at Murano, of which the origin is so remote, may be said to form the only branch of industry which still flourishes in the lagoons. Muranese beads98 are exported to all quarters in vast quantities, and the process of making them is one of the things that strangers feel they must see when visiting Venice. The famous mirrors are no longer made, and the glass has deteriorated99 in quality, as well as in the beauty of the thousand curious forms it took. The test of the old glass, which is now imitated a great deal, is its extreme lightness. I suppose the charming notion that glass was once wrought100 at Murano of such fineness that it burst into fragments if poison were poured into it, must be fabulous101. And yet it would have been an excellent thing in the good old toxicological days of Italy; and people of noble family would have found a sensitive goblet102 of this sort as sovereign against the arts of venomers as an exclusive diet of boiled eggs. The city of Murano has dwindled103 from thirty to five thousand in population. It is intersected by a system of canals like Venice, and has a Grand Canal of its own, of as stately breadth as that of the capital. The finer houses are built on this canal; but the beautiful palaces, once occupied in villeggiatura by the noble Venetians, are now inhabited by herds104 of poor, or converted into glass-works. The famous Cardinal105 Bembo and other literati made the island their retreat, and beautified it with gardens and fountains. Casa Priuli in that day was, according to Venetian ideas, “a terrestrial Paradise,” and a proper haunt of “nymphs and demi-gods.” But the wealth, the learning, and the elegance106 of former times, which planted “groves of Academe” at Murano, have passed away, and the fair pleasure-gardens are now weed-grown wastes, or turned into honest cabbage and potato patches. It is a poor, dreary107 little town, with an inexplicable108 charm in its decay. The city arms are still displayed upon the public buildings (for Murano was ruled, independently of Venice, by its own council); and the heraldic cock, with a snake in its beak109, has yet a lusty and haughty110 air amid the ruin of the place.
The way in which the spring made itself felt upon the lagoon was full of curious delight. It was not so early in the season that we should know the spring by the first raw warmth in the air, and there was as yet no assurance of her presence in the growth—later so luxuriant—of the coarse grasses of the shallows. But somehow the spring was there, giving us new life with every breath. There were fewer gulls111 than usual, and those we saw sailed far overhead, debating departure. There was deeper languor112 in the laziness of the soldiers of finance, as they lounged and slept upon their floating custom houses in every channel of the lagoons; and the hollow voices of the boatmen, yelling to each other as their wont113 is, had an uncommon114 tendency to diffuse115 themselves in echo. Over all, the heavens had put on their summer blue, in promise of that delicious weather which in the lagoons lasts half the year, and which makes every other climate seem niggard of sunshine and azure116 skies. I know we have beautiful days at home—days of which the sumptuous117 splendor118 used to take my memory with unspeakable longing119 and regret even in Italy;—but we do not have, week after week, month after month, that
“Blue, unclouded weather,”
which, at Venice, contents all your senses, and makes you exult120 to be alive with the inarticulate gladness of children, or of the swallows that there all day wheel and dart121 through the air, and shriek122 out a delight too intense and precipitate123 for song.
The island of Torcello is some five miles away from Venice, in the northern lagoon. The city was founded far back in the troubled morning of Christian civilization, by refugees from barbarian124 invasion, and built with stones quarried125 from the ruins of old Altinum, over which Attila had passed desolating126. During the first ages of its existence Torcello enjoyed the doubtful advantage of protection from the Greek emperors, but fell afterward under the domination of Venice. In the thirteenth century the debris127 of the river that emptied into the lagoon there began to choke up the wholesome80 salt canals, and to poison the air with swampy128 malaria129; and in the seventeenth century the city had so dwindled that the Venetian podestà removed his residence from the depopulated island to Burano,—though the bishopric established immediately after the settlement of the refugees at Torcello continued there till 1814, to the satisfaction, no doubt, of the frogs and mosquitoes that had long inherited the former citizens.
I confess that I know little more of the history of Torcello than I found in my guide-book. There I read that the city had once stately civic130 and religious edifices131, and that in the tenth century the Emperor Porphorygenitus called it ”magnum emporium Torcellanorum.” The much-restored cathedral of the seventh century, a little church, a building supposed to have been the public palace, and other edifices so ruinous and so old that their exact use in other days is not now known, are all that remain of the magnum emporium, except some lines of moldering wall that wander along the canals, and through pastures and vineyards, in the last imbecile stages of dilapidation132 and decay. There is a lofty bell-tower, also, from which, no doubt, the Torcellani used to descry133 afar off the devouring135 hordes136 of the barbarians137 on the main-land, and prepare for defense138. As their city was never actually invaded, I am at a loss to account for the so-called Throne of Attila, which stands in the grass-grown piazza139 before the cathedral; and I fear that it may really have been after all only the seat which the ancient Tribunes of Torcello occupied on public occasions. It is a stone arm-chair, of a rude stateliness, and though I questioned its authenticity140, I went and sat down in it a little while, to give myself the benefit of a doubt in case Attila had really pressed the same seat.
As soon as our gondola141 touched the grassy142 shores at Torcello, Giovanna’s children, Beppi and Nina, whom we had brought with us to give a first experience of trees and flowers and mother earth, leaped from the boat and took possession of land and water. By a curious fatality143 the little girl, who was bred safely amid the hundred canals of Venice, signalized her absence from their perils144 by presently falling into the only canal in Torcello, whence she was taken dripping, to be confined at a farm-house during the rest of our stay. The children were wild with pleasure, being absolutely new to the country, and ran over the island, plucking bouquets145 of weeds and flowers by armsful. A rake, borne afield upon the shoulder of a peasant, afterwhile fascinated the Venetian Beppi, and drew him away to study its strange and wonderful uses.
The simple inhabitants of Torcello came forth146 with gifts, or rather bargains, of flowers, to meet their discoverers, and, in a little while, exhausted147 our soldi. They also attended us in full force when we sat down to lunch,—the old, the young men and maidens148, and the little children, all alike sallow, tattered149, and dirty. Under these circumstances, a sense of the idyllic150 and the patriarchal gave zest151 to our collation152, and moved us to bestow153, in a splendid manner, fragments of the feast among the poor Torcellani. Knowing the abstemiousness154 of Italians everywhere, and seeing the hungry fashion in which the islanders clutched our gifts and devoured155 them, it was our doubt whether any one of them had ever experienced perfect repletion156. I incline to think that a chronic157 famine gnawed158 their entrails, and that they never filled their bellies159 but with draughts160 of the east wind disdained161 of Job. The smaller among them even scrambled162 with the dog for the bones, until a little girl was bitten, when a terrific tumult163 arose, and the dog was driven home by the whole multitude. The children presently returned. They all had that gift of beauty which Nature seldom denies to the children of their race; but being, as I said, so dirty, their beauty shone forth chiefly from their large soft eyes. They had a very graceful, bashful archness of manner, and they insinuated164 beggary so winningly, that it would have been impossible for hungry people to deny them. As for us, having lunched, we gave them every thing that remained, and went off to feast our enthusiasm for art and antiquity in the cathedral.
Of course, I have not the least intention of describing it. I remember best among its wonders the bearing of certain impenitents in one of the mosaics on the walls, whom the earnest early artist had meant to represent as suffering in the flames of torment165. I think, however, I have never seen complacence equal to that of these sinners, unless it was in the countenances166 of the seven fat kine, which, as represented in the vestibule of St. Mark’s, wear an air of the sleepiest and laziest enjoyment167, while the seven lean kine, having just come up from the river, devour134 steaks from their bleeding haunches. There are other mosaics in the Torcello cathedral, especially those in the apsis and in one of the side chapels, which are in a beautiful spirit of art, and form the widest possible contrast to the eighteenth-century high altar, with its insane and ribald angels flying off at the sides, and poising168 themselves in the rope-dancing attitudes favored by statues of heavenly persons in the decline of the Renaissance169. The choir is peculiarly built, in the form of a half-circle, with seats rising one above another, as in an amphitheatre, and a flight of steps ascending171 to the bishop’s seat above all,—after the manner of the earliest Christian churches. The partition parapet before the high altar is of almost transparent172 marble, delicately and quaintly173 sculptured with peacocks and lions, as the Byzantines loved to carve them; and the capitals of the columns dividing the naves174 are of infinite richness. Part of the marble pulpit has a curious bass-relief, said to be representative of the worship of Mercury; and indeed the Torcellani owe much of the beauty of their Duomo to unrequited antiquity. (They came to be robbed in their turn: for the opulence175 of their churches was so great that in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries the severest penalties had to be enacted176 against those who stole from them. No one will be surprised to learn that the clergy177 themselves participated in these spoliations; but I believe no ecclesiastic28 was ever lashed178 in the piazza, or deprived of an eye or a hand for his offense179.) The Duomo has the peculiar170 Catholic interest, and the horrible fascination180, of a dead saint’s mortal part in a glass case.
An arcade181 runs along the facade182 of the cathedral, and around the side and front of the adjoining church of Santa Fosca, which is likewise very old. But we found nothing in it but a dusty, cadaverous stench, and so we came away and ascended183 the campanile. From the top of this you have a view of the lagoon, in all its iridescent184 hues, and of the heaven-blue sea. Here, looking toward the main-land, I would have been glad to experience the feelings of the Torcellani of old, as they descried185 the smoking advance of Huns or Vandals. But the finer emotions are like gifted children, and are seldom equal to occasions. I am ashamed to say that mine got no further than Castle Bluebeard, with Lady Bluebeard’s sister looking out for her brothers, and tearfully responding to Lady B.‘s repeated and agonized186 entreaty187, “O sister, do you see them yet?”
The old woman who had opened the door of the campanile was surprised into hospitality by the sum of money we gave her, and took us through her house (which was certainly very neat and clean) into her garden, where she explained the nature of many familiar trees and shrubs188 to us poor Venetians.
We went back home over the twilight189 lagoon, and Giovanna expressed the general feeling when she said: ”Torsello xe beo—no si pol negar—la campagna xe bea; ma, benedetta la mia Venezia!“
(The country is beautiful—it can’t be denied—Torcello is beautiful; but blessed be my Venice!)
The panorama190 of the southern lagoon is best seen in a voyage to Chioggia, or Ciozza, the quaint and historic little city that lies twenty miles away from Venice, at one of the ports of the harbor. The Giant Sea-wall, built there by the Republic in her decline, is a work of Roman grandeur191, which impresses you more deeply than any other monument of the past with a sense of her former industrial and commercial greatness. Strips of village border the narrow Littorale all the way to Chioggia, and on the right lie the islands of the lagoon. Chioggia itself is hardly more than a village,—a Venice in miniature, like Murano, with canals and boats and bridges. But here the character of life is more amphibious than in brine-bound Venice; and though there is no horse to be seen in the central streets of Chioggia, peasants’ teams penetrate192 her borders by means of a long bridge from the main-land.
Of course Chioggia has passed through the customary vicissitudes193 of Italian towns, and has been depopulated at divers194 times by pestilence195, famine, and war. It suffered cruelly in the war with the Genoese in 1380, when it was taken by those enemies of St. Mark; and its people were so wasted by the struggle that the Venetians, on regaining196 it, were obliged to invite immigration to repopulate its emptiness. I do not know how great comfort the Chiozzotti of that unhappy day took in the fact that some of the earliest experiments with cannon were made in the contest that destroyed them, but I can hardly offer them less tribute than to mention it here. At present the place is peopled almost entirely197 by sailors and fishermen, whose wives are more famous for their beauty than their amiability. Goldoni’s “Baruffe Chiozzotte” is an amusing and vivid picture of the daily battles which the high-spirited ladies of the city fought in the dramatist’s 22 time, and which are said to be of frequent occurrence at this day. The Chiozzotte are the only women of this part of Italy who still preserve a semblance198 of national costume; and this remnant of more picturesque199 times consists merely of a skirt of white, which, being open in front, is drawn200 from the waist over the head and gathered in the hand under the chin, giving to the flashing black eyes and swarthy features of the youthful wearer a look of very dangerous slyness and cunning. The dialect of the Chiozzotti is said to be that of the early Venetians, with an admixture of Greek, and it is infinitely201 more sweet and musical than the dialect now spoken in Venice. “Whether derived,” says the author of the “Fiore di Venezia,” alluding202 to the speech of these peculiar people, “from those who first settled these shores, or resulting from other physical and moral causes, it is certain that the tone of the voice is here more varied203 and powerful: the mouth is thrown wide open in speaking; a passion, a lament204 mingles205 with laughter itself, and there is a continual ritornello of words previously206 spoken. But this speech is full of energy; whoever would study brief and strong modes of expression should come here.”
Chioggia was once the residence of noble and distinguished207 persons, among whom was the painter Rosalba Carrera, famed throughout Europe for her crayon miniatures; and the place produced in the sixteenth century the great maestro Giuseppe Zarlino, “who passes,” says Cantù, “for the restorer of modern music,” and “whose ‘Orfeo’ heralded208 the invention of the musical drama.” This composer claimed for his birthplace the doubtful honor of the institution of the order of the Capuchins, which he declared to have been founded by Fra Paolo (Giovanni Sambi) of Chioggia. There is not much now to see in poor little Chioggia except its common people, who, after a few minutes’ contemplation, can hardly interest any one but the artist. There are no dwellings in the town which approach palatial209 grandeur, and nothing in the Renaissance churches to claim attention, unless it be an attributive Bellini in one of them. Yet if you have the courage to climb the bell-tower of the cathedral, you get from its summit the loveliest imaginable view of many-purpled lagoon and silver-flashing sea; and if you are sufficiently210 acquainted with Italy and Italians to observe a curious fact, and care to study the subject, you may note the great difference between the inhabitants of Chioggia and those of Palestrina,—an island divided from Chioggia by a half mile of lagoon, and by quite different costume, type of face, and accent.
Just between Chioggia and the sea lies the lazy town of Sottomarina, and I should say that the population of Sottomarina chiefly spent its time in lounging up and down the Sea-wall; while that of Chioggia, when not professionally engaged with the net, gave its leisure to playing mora 23 in the shade, or pitilessly pursuing strangers, and offering them boats. For my own part, I refused the subtlest advances of this kind which were made me in Chiozzotto, but fell a helpless prey211 to a boatman who addressed me in some words of wonderful English, and then rowed me to the Sea-wall at about thrice the usual fare.
These primitive212 people are bent213, in their out-of-the-world, remote way, upon fleecing the passing stranger quite as earnestly as other Italians, and they na?vely improve every occasion for plunder214. As we passed up the shady side of their wide street, we came upon a plump little blond boy, lying asleep on the stones, with his head upon his arm; and as no one was near, the artist of our party stopped to sketch215 the sleeper216. Atmospheric217 knowledge of the fact spread rapidly, and in a few minutes we were the centre of a general assembly of the people of Chioggia, who discussed us, and the artist’s treatment of her subject, in open congress. They handed round the airy chaff218 as usual, but were very orderly and respectful, nevertheless,—one father of the place quelling219 every tendency to tumult by kicking his next neighbor, who passed on the penalty till, by this simple and ingenious process, the guilty cause of the trouble was infallibly reached and kicked at last. I placed a number of soldi in the boy’s hand, to the visible sensation of the crowd, and then we moved away and left him, heading, as we went, a procession of Chiozzotti, who could not make up their minds to relinquish220 us till we took refuge in a church. When we came out the procession had disappeared, but all round the church door, and picturesquely221 scattered222 upon the pavement in every direction, lay boys asleep, with their heads upon their arms. As we passed laughing through the midst of these slumberers, they rose and followed us with cries of ”Mi tiri zu! Mi tiri zu!“ (Take me down! Take me down!) They ran ahead, and fell asleep again in our path, and round every corner we came upon a sleeping boy; and, indeed, we never got out of that atmosphere of slumber223 till we returned to the steamer for Venice, when Chioggia shook off her drowsy224 stupor225, and began to tempt226 us to throw soldi into the water, to be dived for by her awakened227 children.
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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recede
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| vi.退(去)，渐渐远去；向后倾斜，缩进 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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lagoons
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| n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 )；潟湖；（大湖或江河附近的）小而浅的淡水湖；温泉形成的池塘 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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loom
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| n.织布机，织机；v.隐现，(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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cloisters
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| n.（学院、修道院、教堂等建筑的）走廊( cloister的名词复数 )；回廊；修道院的生活；隐居v.隐退，使与世隔绝( cloister的第三人称单数 ) | |
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11
monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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12
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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13
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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utilitarian
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| adj.实用的，功利的 | |
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15
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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16
glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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17
ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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18
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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19
nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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20
isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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21
edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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22
chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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23
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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24
abdication
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| n.辞职；退位 | |
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25
reviled
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| v.辱骂，痛斥( revile的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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26
imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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27
refractory
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| adj.倔强的，难驾驭的 | |
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28
ecclesiastic
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| n.教士，基督教会；adj.神职者的，牧师的，教会的 | |
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29
ecclesiastics
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| n.神职者，教会，牧师( ecclesiastic的名词复数 ) | |
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30
villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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31
apertures
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| n.孔( aperture的名词复数 )；隙缝；（照相机的）光圈；孔径 | |
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32
scrolls
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| n.（常用于录写正式文件的）纸卷( scroll的名词复数 )；卷轴；涡卷形（装饰）；卷形花纹v.（电脑屏幕上）从上到下移动（资料等），卷页( scroll的第三人称单数 )；（似卷轴般）卷起；（像展开卷轴般地）将文字显示于屏幕 | |
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33
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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34
lascivious
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| adj.淫荡的，好色的 | |
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35
factious
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| adj.好搞宗派活动的，派系的，好争论的 | |
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36
warehouses
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| 仓库，货栈( warehouse的名词复数 ) | |
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37
truculent
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| adj.野蛮的，粗野的 | |
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38
tenacious
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| adj.顽强的，固执的，记忆力强的，粘的 | |
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39
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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40
etymology
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| n.语源；字源学 | |
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41
extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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42
choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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43
perverted
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| adj.不正当的v.滥用( pervert的过去式和过去分词 )；腐蚀；败坏；使堕落 | |
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44
eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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45
ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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46
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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47
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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48
thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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49
consecrated
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| adj.神圣的，被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣，给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 )；奉献 | |
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50
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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51
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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52
interred
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| v.埋，葬( inter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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53
cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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54
gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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55
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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56
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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57
bard
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| n.吟游诗人 | |
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58
afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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59
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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60
espouse
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| v.支持，赞成，嫁娶 | |
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61
pensive
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| a.沉思的,哀思的,忧沉的 | |
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62
cadence
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| n.（说话声调的）抑扬顿挫 | |
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63
ineffable
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| adj.无法表达的，不可言喻的 | |
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64
rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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65
brook
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| n.小河，溪；v.忍受，容让 | |
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66
repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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67
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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68
sentry
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| n.哨兵，警卫 | |
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69
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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70
cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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71
effigies
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| n.（人的）雕像，模拟像，肖像( effigy的名词复数 ) | |
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72
contrive
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| vt.谋划，策划；设法做到；设计，想出 | |
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73
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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74
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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75
yearned
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| 渴望，切盼，向往( yearn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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76
dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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77
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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78
surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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79
scoffing
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| n. 嘲笑, 笑柄, 愚弄 v. 嘲笑, 嘲弄, 愚弄, 狼吞虎咽 | |
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80
wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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81
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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82
slaughter
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| n.屠杀，屠宰；vt.屠杀，宰杀 | |
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83
veal
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| n.小牛肉 | |
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84
shrugged
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| vt.耸肩（shrug的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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85
batter
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| v.接连重击；磨损；n.牛奶面糊；击球员 | |
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86
reeking
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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87
redeemed
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| adj. 可赎回的，可救赎的 动词redeem的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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88
amiability
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| n.和蔼可亲的，亲切的，友善的 | |
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89
bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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90
virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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91
inundated
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| v.淹没( inundate的过去式和过去分词 )；（洪水般地）涌来；充满；给予或交予（太多事物）使难以应付 | |
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92
persiflage
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| n.戏弄；挖苦 | |
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93
deviate
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| v.(from)背离，偏离 | |
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94
assents
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| 同意，赞同( assent的名词复数 ) | |
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95
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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96
mosaics
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| n.马赛克( mosaic的名词复数 )；镶嵌；镶嵌工艺；镶嵌图案 | |
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97
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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98
beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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99
deteriorated
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| 恶化，变坏( deteriorate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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100
wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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101
fabulous
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| adj.极好的；极为巨大的；寓言中的，传说中的 | |
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102
goblet
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| n.高脚酒杯 | |
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103
dwindled
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| v.逐渐变少或变小( dwindle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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104
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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105
cardinal
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| n.(天主教的)红衣主教；adj.首要的，基本的 | |
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106
elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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107
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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108
inexplicable
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| adj.无法解释的，难理解的 | |
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109
beak
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| n.鸟嘴，茶壶嘴，钩形鼻 | |
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110
haughty
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| adj.傲慢的，高傲的 | |
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111
gulls
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| n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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112
languor
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| n.无精力，倦怠 | |
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113
wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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114
uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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115
diffuse
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| v.扩散；传播；adj.冗长的；四散的，弥漫的 | |
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116
azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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117
sumptuous
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| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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118
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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119
longing
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| n.（for）渴望 | |
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120
exult
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| v.狂喜，欢腾；欢欣鼓舞 | |
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121
dart
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| v.猛冲，投掷；n.飞镖，猛冲 | |
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122
shriek
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| v./n.尖叫，叫喊 | |
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123
precipitate
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| adj.突如其来的；vt.使突然发生；n.沉淀物 | |
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124
barbarian
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| n.野蛮人；adj.野蛮(人)的；未开化的 | |
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125
quarried
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| v.从采石场采得( quarry的过去式和过去分词 )；从（书本等中）努力发掘（资料等）；在采石场采石 | |
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126
desolating
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| 毁坏( desolate的现在分词 )； 极大地破坏； 使沮丧； 使痛苦 | |
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127
debris
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| n.瓦砾堆，废墟，碎片 | |
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128
swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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129
malaria
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| n.疟疾 | |
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130
civic
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| adj.城市的，都市的，市民的，公民的 | |
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131
edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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132
dilapidation
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| n.倒塌；毁坏 | |
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133
descry
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| v.远远看到；发现；责备 | |
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134
devour
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| v.吞没；贪婪地注视或谛听，贪读；使着迷 | |
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135
devouring
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| 吞没( devour的现在分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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136
hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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137
barbarians
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| n.野蛮人( barbarian的名词复数 )；外国人；粗野的人；无教养的人 | |
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138
defense
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| n.防御，保卫；[pl.]防务工事；辩护，答辩 | |
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139
piazza
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| n.广场；走廊 | |
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140
authenticity
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| n.真实性 | |
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141
gondola
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| n.威尼斯的平底轻舟；飞船的吊船 | |
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142
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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143
fatality
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| n.不幸，灾祸，天命 | |
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144
perils
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| 极大危险( peril的名词复数 )； 危险的事（或环境） | |
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145
bouquets
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| n.花束( bouquet的名词复数 )；（酒的）芳香 | |
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146
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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147
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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148
maidens
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| 处女( maiden的名词复数 )； 少女； 未婚女子； （板球运动）未得分的一轮投球 | |
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149
tattered
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| adj.破旧的，衣衫破的 | |
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150
idyllic
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| adj.质朴宜人的，田园风光的 | |
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151
zest
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| n.乐趣；滋味，风味；兴趣 | |
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152
collation
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| n.便餐；整理 | |
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153
bestow
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| v.把…赠与，把…授予；花费 | |
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154
abstemiousness
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| n.适中，有节制 | |
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155
devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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156
repletion
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| n.充满，吃饱 | |
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157
chronic
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| adj.(疾病)长期未愈的，慢性的；极坏的 | |
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158
gnawed
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| 咬( gnaw的过去式和过去分词 )； （长时间） 折磨某人； （使）苦恼； （长时间）危害某事物 | |
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159
bellies
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| n.肚子( belly的名词复数 )；腹部；（物体的）圆形或凸起部份；腹部…形的 | |
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160
draughts
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| n. <英>国际跳棋 | |
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161
disdained
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| 鄙视( disdain的过去式和过去分词 )； 不屑于做，不愿意做 | |
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162
scrambled
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的过去式和过去分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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163
tumult
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| n.喧哗；激动，混乱；吵闹 | |
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164
insinuated
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| v.暗示( insinuate的过去式和过去分词 )；巧妙或迂回地潜入；（使）缓慢进入；慢慢伸入 | |
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165
torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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166
countenances
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| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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167
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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168
poising
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| 使平衡( poise的现在分词 )； 保持（某种姿势）； 抓紧； 使稳定 | |
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169
renaissance
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| n.复活，复兴，文艺复兴 | |
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170
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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171
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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172
transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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173
quaintly
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| adv.古怪离奇地 | |
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174
naves
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| n.教堂正厅( nave的名词复数 )；本堂；中央部；车轮的中心部 | |
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175
opulence
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| n.财富，富裕 | |
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176
enacted
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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177
clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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178
lashed
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| adj.具睫毛的v.鞭打( lash的过去式和过去分词 )；煽动；紧系；怒斥 | |
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179
offense
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| n.犯规，违法行为；冒犯，得罪 | |
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180
fascination
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| n.令人着迷的事物，魅力，迷恋 | |
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181
arcade
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| n.拱廊；(一侧或两侧有商店的)通道 | |
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182
facade
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| n.(建筑物的)正面，临街正面；外表 | |
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183
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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184
iridescent
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| adj.彩虹色的，闪色的 | |
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185
descried
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| adj.被注意到的，被发现的，被看到的 | |
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186
agonized
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| v.使（极度）痛苦，折磨( agonize的过去式和过去分词 )；苦斗；苦苦思索；感到极度痛苦 | |
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187
entreaty
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| n.恳求，哀求 | |
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188
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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189
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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190
panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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191
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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192
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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193
vicissitudes
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| n.变迁，世事变化；变迁兴衰( vicissitude的名词复数 )；盛衰兴废 | |
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194
divers
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| adj.不同的；种种的 | |
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195
pestilence
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| n.瘟疫 | |
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196
regaining
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| 复得( regain的现在分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
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197
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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198
semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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199
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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200
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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201
infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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202
alluding
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| 提及，暗指( allude的现在分词 ) | |
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203
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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204
lament
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| n.悲叹，悔恨，恸哭；v.哀悼，悔恨，悲叹 | |
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205
mingles
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| 混合，混入( mingle的第三人称单数 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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206
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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207
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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208
heralded
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| v.预示( herald的过去式和过去分词 )；宣布（好或重要） | |
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209
palatial
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| adj.宫殿般的，宏伟的 | |
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210
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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211
prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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212
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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213
bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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214
plunder
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| vt.劫掠财物，掠夺；n.劫掠物，赃物；劫掠 | |
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215
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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216
sleeper
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| n.睡眠者，卧车，卧铺 | |
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217
atmospheric
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| adj.大气的，空气的；大气层的；大气所引起的 | |
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218
chaff
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| v.取笑，嘲笑；n.谷壳 | |
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219
quelling
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| v.（用武力）制止，结束，镇压( quell的现在分词 ) | |
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220
relinquish
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| v.放弃，撤回，让与，放手 | |
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221
picturesquely
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222
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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223
slumber
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| n.睡眠，沉睡状态 | |
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224
drowsy
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| adj.昏昏欲睡的，令人发困的 | |
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225
stupor
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| v.昏迷；不省人事 | |
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226
tempt
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| vt.引诱，勾引，吸引，引起…的兴趣 | |
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227
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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