From 1805 to 1810, the Empress Josephine, whose love for flowers is well known, collected at her favorite residence, Malmaison, the choicest varieties of the Rose that could be obtained from Holland, Germany, and Belgium, and thus gave an increased impulse to the culture of roses in the vicinity of Paris.
According to De Pronville, a French writer, there were, in 1814, only 182 varieties of roses, and the advantage of multiplication8 by seed is sufficiently9 evinced by the fact that there are now more than 6,000 varieties, the poorest of which are much better than any which existed at[Pg 131] that day. Among the earliest cultivators of roses from the seed, were three Frenchmen: Dupont, Vilmorin, and Descemet. The former was the gardener of the Empress Josephine. When the allied10 armies entered Paris, in 1815, the garden of Descemet contained 10,000 seedling11 roses, which Vibert, in his anxiety to secure from destruction, succeeded in carrying to his garden in the interior.
In England, very little attention seems, at that time, to have been paid to the production of new varieties from seed, and the English relied very much upon the continent for their choice roses. Now, however, they are abundantly redeeming12 their reputation, and many fine varieties have been produced by English rose-growers, at the head of whom stands Rivers, whose efforts are seconded by Wood, Paul, Lane, and others. They are still, however, compelled to yield to the French cultivators; for to these we are indebted for our very finest roses—for Lamarque, Solfaterre, La Reine, Chromatella, the new white Perpetuals, Souvenir de Malmaison, and others.
The varieties of roses became increasingly great after the introduction of the Bengals, Noisettes, Teas, and Bourbons—all these classes producing readily from seed, and in endless variety. There still remains13 a willingness to cast aside the old for the new, and however much we may regret this disposition14, for the sake of some old and truly deserving favorites, we cannot feel willing to denounce it, for it exhibits a gratifying evidence of a desire for improvement, and the existence of a spirit of progress, which, dissatisfied with things as they are, is continually striving after nearer approaches to perfection. If, in this strife15, some of our old favorites have been cast aside, we are more than abundantly compensated16 for their loss by the new claimants to our regard.
Those who intend to raise new roses from seed should select varieties differing as much as possible in color and habit, and possessing broad, thick, and well-formed petals17;[Pg 132] their stamens should also be visible, and their pistils perfect; for perfectly18 double flowers, in which all the organs of propagation—the stamens and pistils—are changed into petals, never yield seed. These should be planted together in a rich soil, and as far as possible from any other roses. If there are among them any two varieties whose peculiarities20 it is desired to unite in a single plant, place these next to each other, and there may possibly be such an admixture of the pollen21 as will produce the desired result.
Care should be taken not to affect the proper maturity22 of the seed by taking off the petals, but allow them to fall by their own decay. The seed should be perfectly mature before it is gathered, which will be immediately after the first hard frost. After the hips23 have been gathered, the seeds can be taken out with the point of a knife, or, if there is a large quantity, they can be put on a table and bruised25 with a wooden roller; the covering of the seeds is so tough that they cannot easily be injured. When the hip24 is sufficiently bruised, it can be plunged26 into a vessel27 of water; and by continued friction28, the seeds can be easily separated from the pulp29 which surrounds them, and will generally fall to the bottom. After being dried a few days in the shade, they should be placed just beneath the surface, in pots filled with fine sand, or peat earth, where they can be kept until wanted for planting in the spring. The seeds which are not thus placed in sand soon after they are gathered will not grow until the second, and if delayed very long, until the third year. In this case, however, their germination30 can be hastened by sowing them in earthen pans, which are placed upon a hot-bed or under a glass frame. The seeds being thus planted immediately after being gathered, the sand should be kept moistened through the winter, and the pots put out of the reach of frost. Mice are very fond of these seeds, and will destroy them unless they are[Pg 133] protected. The pots should be kept out of all heat, excepting what may be required to keep the frost from them, until the first of April, in this latitude31, and at the South, earlier; this is requisite32, in order to prevent their germinating33 before all danger of frost is past in the open air. At the time the pots or pans are brought from their sheltered place into a warm temperature, beds for the plants should be made in the open air, that they may be ready the moment they are required. For these an eastern aspect is the best, and in our hot climate, on the north side of a fence would answer very well; if they are in an open piece of ground, they should be sheltered by an awning34 from the hot sun. The soil should be a rich, light sandy mould, with a little peat, if convenient, and should be finely pulverized35. The seeds should now be closely watched, and the moment they are seen pushing up the sand, in order to obtain light, they should be taken out singly with the point of a knife, taking a small portion of the sand with them. The bed having been previously36 watered, and raked fine, drills can be made, half an inch deep and about a foot apart, in which the germinating seeds can be placed, at a distance of six inches from each other, and then carefully covered with finely pulverized soil. Having commenced germinating in the pots, the seeds, now in the genial37 warmth of a spring sun, but protected from its fiercest rays, will soon show their heads above the ground, and striking deep root in the rich soil, grow rapidly. While the plants are small, care should be taken to keep the ground constantly moist.
We are aware that this process is somewhat new with rose seeds, although it has been long practiced with Rhododendrons and other plants, but we are convinced of its superiority to the old mode. The delicate roots of young plants are very susceptible38 of injury by change, and many are frequently lost by the first potting; this risk is avoided by transplanting the seed before the first[Pg 134] root fibre is formed, and when, being in the act of germination, there can be no possible danger of its rotting, which is frequently a serious objection to sowing seeds at once in the open ground. The trouble and risk of loss occasioned by subsequent re-pottings are also avoided, and the plants have, by this mode, full liberty to grow as luxuriantly as they choose, with only the slight attention required by watering and shading. As the plan of Rivers is materially different, we will give his directions in detail, admitting, at the same time, that, under some circumstances, it may be preferable to that we have presented above.
“The hips of all the varieties of roses, will, in general, be fully5 ripe by the beginning of November; they should then be gathered and kept entire, in a flower pot filled with dry sand, carefully guarded from mice. In February, or by the first week in March, they must be broken to pieces with the fingers, and sown in flower pots, such as are generally used for sowing seeds in, called ‘seed pans’; but for rose seeds they should not be too shallow; nine inches in depth will be enough. These should be nearly, but not quite, filled with a rich compost of rotten manure39 and sandy loam40, or peat; the seeds may be covered, to the depth of about half an inch, with the same compost; a piece of kiln41 wire must then be placed over the pot, fitting closely at the rim42, so as to prevent the ingress of mice, which are passionately43 fond of rose seeds; there must be space enough between the wire and the mould for the young plants to come up—half an inch will probably be found enough; the pots of seed must never be placed under glass, but kept constantly in the open air, in a full sunny exposure, as the wire will shade the mould and prevent its drying. Water should be given occasionally, in dry weather. The young plants will perhaps make their appearance in April or May, but very often the seed does not vegetate44 until the second spring. When[Pg 135] they have made their ‘rough leaves,’ that is, when they have three or four leaves, they must be carefully raised with the point of a narrow pruning-knife, potted into small pots, and placed in the shade; if the weather is very hot and dry, they may be covered with a hand-glass for a few days. They may remain in those pots a month, and then be planted out into a rich border; by the end of August those that are robust45 growers will have made shoots long enough for budding.” Until the plants have become firmly rooted, and, in fact, through the most of the first summer, they should be protected from the heat of the sun; a cheap mode of doing this is to put up rough posts, connect them by pieces of wood, lay rough slats across these, and cover the whole with straw or cornstalks; but a much neater covering is a good canvas awning, supported by posts, which can be taken down when not needed, and will last many years. The Bourbons and Bengals, with the Teas and Noisettes, will sometimes bloom the first season; but as the plant will be weak, a correct opinion cannot be formed of its character until the second summer. The summer roses, or those which bloom only once in the season, never show bloom until their third, and sometimes not until their fourth and fifth year. It is well to let all the plants remain in the seed-bed until the fifth year, as some which prove unpromising at first may result in something really good. All that prove bad the fifth year can be marked for destruction, or cut down to receive the buds of the good varieties. In order to obtain a good bloom as soon as possible, it is well to have ready some strong stocks of the Greville, Mannetti, or any other free-growing rose, into which buds can be inserted of any of the seedlings46 whose habit and general appearance promise good flowers, and whose growth has been sufficient to furnish good buds. The next spring the stock should be cut down to the bud, which will then make luxuriant shoots, and produce flowers the same season, if an Everblooming[Pg 136] variety; but if one of the Summer roses, not until the next season. The third spring let every branch be cut down to three or four eyes, when it will more fully develop its character, and will often continue improving until its fifth or sixth year.
The first winter, the young plants will require protection from the cold by some kind of litter, and the Bengal, Tea, and Noisette varieties will always need it during the winter. Where there are any plants of these latter, whose habit and appearance promise something excellent, they can be potted on the approach of winter, kept in a cool temperature, free from frost, and replanted in the spring.
When it is desired that the young plant should possess the properties of two well-known flowers, resort is had to artificial impregnation.
Although the existence of sexuality in plants appears to have been known to the ancients, and is mentioned not only by Pliny, Claudian, and Theophrastus, but also by Ebu-Alwan, in a work on agriculture written originally in Chaldaic; yet it does not seem to have been generally admitted by botanists47, until announced by Linn?us in 1731. From this time the possibility of the existence of hybrid48 plants was admitted, and Linn?us, with many subsequent authors, published observations tending to show that, even in the natural state, new species were formed by two different plants, the pistil of one having been fecundated by the stamens of the other. This impregnation has been artificially applied, by modern cultivators, to the production of new varieties of fruits and flowers. With the Geranium, Fuchsia, P?ony, Pansy, and other flowers, it has produced remarkable49 results. The mode of impregnating the Rose artificially has been so little practiced with us, and has been so well described by Rivers, that we prefer detailing the process in his own words:
“When it is desirable the qualities of a favorite rose should preponderate50, the petals of the flower to be fertilized51[Pg 137] must be opened gently with the fingers. A flower that will expand in the morning should be opened the afternoon or evening previous, and the anthers all removed with a pair of pointed52 scissors. The following morning, when this flower is fully expanded, it must be fertilized with a flower of some variety of whose qualities it is desired to have seedlings largely partake. It requires some watchfulness53 to open the petals at the proper time; if too soon, the petals will be injured in forcing them open, and in hot weather, in July, if delayed only an hour or two, the anthers will be found to have shed their pollen. To ascertain54 precisely55 when the pollen is in a fit state for transmission, a few of the anthers should be gently pressed with the finger and thumb; if the yellow dust adheres to them, the operation may be performed; it requires close examination and some practice to know when the flower to be operated upon is in a fit state to receive the pollen; as a general rule, the flowers ought to be in the same state of expansion, or, in other words, about the same age.
“To exemplify the process, we will suppose that a climbing Moss56 Rose, with red or crimson57 flowers, is wished for: the flowers of the Blush Ayrshire, which bear seed abundantly, may be selected, and before expansion, the anthers removed; the following morning, or as soon after the operation as these flowers open, they should be fertilized with those of the Luxembourg Moss; if the operation succeed, seed will be procured58, from which, the probability is, that a climbing rose will be produced with the habit and flowers of the Moss Rose, or at least an approximation to them. I mention the union of the Moss and Ayrshire Roses by way of illustration, and merely to point out to the amateur how extensive and how interesting a field of operations is open in this way. I ought to give a fact that has occurred in my own experience, which will tell better with the sceptical than a thousand anticipations59. About four years since, in a pan of seedling[Pg 138] Moss Roses, was one with a most peculiar19 habit, even when very young; this has since proved a hybrid rose, partaking much more of the Scotch60 Rose than of any other, and until the plant arrived at full growth, I thought it a Scotch Rose, the seed of which had by accident been mixed with that of the Moss Rose, although I had taken extreme care. To my surprise it has since proved a perfect hybrid, having the sepals and the fruit of the Provence Rose, with the spiny61 and dwarf62 habit of the Scotch Rose; it bears abundance of hips, which are all abortive63. The difference in the fruit of the Moss and Provence Rose, and that of the Scotch, is very remarkable; and this it was which drew my particular attention to the plant in question. It was raised from the same seed, and in the same seed-pan, as the single crimson Moss Rose. As this strange hybrid came from a Moss Rose accidentally fertilized, we may expect that art will do much more for us.
“It is only in cases where it is wished for the qualities of a particular rose to predominate, that the removal of the anthers of the rose to be fertilized is necessary: thus, if a yellow climbing rose is desired by the union of the Yellow Brier with the Ayrshire, every anther should be removed from the latter, so that it is fertilized solely64 with the pollen of the former. In some cases, where it is desirable to have the qualities of both parents in an equal degree, the removal of the anthers must not take place: thus I have found, by removing them from the Luxembourg Moss, and fertilizing65 that rose with a dark variety of Rosa Gallica, that the features of the Moss Rose are totally lost in its offspring, and they become nearly pure varieties of the former; but if the anthers of the Moss Rose are left untouched, and it is fertilized with Rosa Gallica, interesting hybrids66 are the result, more or less mossy.”
There is no branch of rose culture possessing more interest for the amateur, with whose leisure its prosecution67 is[Pg 139] compatible. The constant care and attention required, in order to ensure success, place it in a great measure beyond the limits of a large commercial establishment. The great desideratum at this time is a double, yellow, climbing rose. If the Harrison Rose were fertilized with the Queen of the Prairies, or the latter with the Solfaterre or Chromatella, a rose might possibly be obtained with the rich yellow of the Harrison Rose, and the robust habit and beautifully formed flower of the Queen of the Prairies. While, however, we recommend this mode of artificial impregnation, we would by no means discourage the sowing of seeds whose flowers have not thus been fecundated. The seed of the Harrison Rose, or of any of the yellow roses, may, if perseveringly68 saved from generation to generation, produce a yellow climbing rose. In fact, we are inclined to think that among all the reputed hybrids, a much less number than is supposed owe their origin to a crossed fecundation. It is a fact generally admitted by botanists, that all varieties of plants will generally produce from their seed plants very dissimilar, preserving, perhaps, some peculiarities of their parents, but differing in many essential particulars.
It will thus be perceived that, in the simple sowing of seeds, where there is a dislike to the trouble of artificial impregnation, there is a wide field for experiment and for successful result. But to those who have the leisure and the patience to transfer from one plant to another its fertilizing matter, it forms a pleasant amusement, with rather a greater probability of satisfactory results. In either case, every amateur of roses should have his seed-plat; and if, out of a thousand, or even five thousand roses, he should obtain one good variety, and differing from any other known, he will be conferring an important service upon rose-culture, and will encourage others to pursue the same course, until we shall be in no wise behind either France or England in this interesting branch of horticulture.
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1
briefly
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| adv.简单地，简短地 | |
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advert
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| vi.注意，留意，言及；n.广告 | |
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dormant
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| adj.暂停活动的；休眠的；潜伏的 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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outstripped
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| v.做得比…更好，（在赛跑等中）超过( outstrip的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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multiplication
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| n.增加，增多，倍增；增殖，繁殖；乘法 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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allied
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| adj.协约国的；同盟国的 | |
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seedling
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| n.秧苗，树苗 | |
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redeeming
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| 补偿的，弥补的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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strife
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| n.争吵，冲突，倾轧，竞争 | |
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compensated
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| 补偿，报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 )； 给（某人）赔偿（或赔款） | |
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petals
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| n.花瓣( petal的名词复数 ) | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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peculiarities
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| n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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pollen
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| n.[植]花粉 | |
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maturity
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| n.成熟；完成；(支票、债券等)到期 | |
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hips
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| abbr.high impact polystyrene 高冲击强度聚苯乙烯，耐冲性聚苯乙烯n.臀部( hip的名词复数 )；[建筑学]屋脊；臀围（尺寸）；臀部…的 | |
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hip
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| n.臀部，髋；屋脊 | |
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bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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friction
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| n.摩擦，摩擦力 | |
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pulp
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| n.果肉，纸浆；v.化成纸浆，除去...果肉，制成纸浆 | |
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germination
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| n.萌芽，发生；萌发；生芽；催芽 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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germinating
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| n.& adj.发芽（的）v.（使）发芽( germinate的现在分词 ) | |
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awning
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| n.遮阳篷；雨篷 | |
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pulverized
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| adj.[医]雾化的，粉末状的v.将…弄碎( pulverize的过去式和过去分词 )；将…弄成粉末或尘埃；摧毁；粉碎 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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susceptible
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| adj.过敏的，敏感的；易动感情的，易受感动的 | |
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manure
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| n.粪，肥，肥粒；vt.施肥 | |
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loam
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| n.沃土 | |
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kiln
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| n.（砖、石灰等）窑，炉；v.烧窑 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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43
passionately
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| ad.热烈地，激烈地 | |
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vegetate
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| v.无所事事地过活 | |
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robust
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| adj.强壮的，强健的，粗野的，需要体力的，浓的 | |
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seedlings
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| n.刚出芽的幼苗( seedling的名词复数 ) | |
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botanists
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| n.植物学家，研究植物的人( botanist的名词复数 ) | |
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hybrid
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| n.(动，植）杂种，混合物 | |
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49
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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50
preponderate
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| v.数目超过；占优势 | |
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51
Fertilized
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| v.施肥( fertilize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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52
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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53
watchfulness
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| 警惕，留心； 警觉（性） | |
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54
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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55
precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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56
moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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57
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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58
procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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59
anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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60
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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spiny
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| adj.多刺的，刺状的；n.多刺的东西 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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63
abortive
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| adj.不成功的，发育不全的 | |
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64
solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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65
fertilizing
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| v.施肥( fertilize的现在分词 ) | |
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66
hybrids
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| n.杂交生成的生物体( hybrid的名词复数 )；杂交植物（或动物）；杂种；（不同事物的）混合物 | |
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67
prosecution
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| n.起诉，告发，检举，执行，经营 | |
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68
perseveringly
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| 坚定地 | |
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