drop Cap L
LES BOUTIèRES have already had some sentences devoted4 to them. They differ geologically, and consequently in scenery, altogether from the high range of volcanic5 peaks of the mountains of the Vivarais below Privas. They are composed of granite6 and gneiss, and continue the Cévennes chain northwards. There are among them no craters7, no floods of crystallised lava8. Their heights are not extraordinary; they throw out long lateral9 spurs towards the Rh?ne. The scenery is tamer than in any other part of the Cévennes; that portion from Annonay to S. Etienne is given up to factories, which makes the country people prosperous but the country unattractive.
But from Annonay south to Privas there is pleasant if not fine scenery, and it is very rarely visited.
"It is," says Dr. Francus (A. Mazon), "a land that has a stamp of its own; its mountains, its agriculture, its customs, even its religion are peculiar10 to it. A land of steep slopes, [Pg 104] boisterous11 rivers, rude summits, with pines above and chestnut12 trees below, with Biblical types of men, bullet-headed, and with brains not altogether like other men's brains. Nature herself puts on a severe countenance13; the woods look like gloomy conspirators14, the wind seems to chant psalms15, and with a little imagination it is possible to fancy that one hears a far-off echo of some Assembly of the Desert that Time has forgotten to sweep away in its onward16 march."
Looking westward17 from Valence is seen the little town of S. Peray, and towering above it the ruined castle of Crussol on a limestone18 cliff.
S. Peray is famous, with a limited fame, for its sparkling wine.
The white wine of S. Peray always had a certain celebrity19. The wine merchants of Burgundy and Champagne20, seeing that very good juice of the grape was to be had there cheap, bought it up and sold it as their own crus, or else doctored it. They purchased whole vintages at the time of the gathering21 in and crushing of the grape, and by means of the navigation of the Rh?ne and Sa?ne, were able to bring them into the heart of France.
But after a while the owners of the vineyards of S. Peray saw their way to selling direct to the consumer. In 1798 one of them discovered the secret how to make the wine effervesce22, and he set to work to produce sparkling S. Peray, which soon obtained great favour.
The phylloxera came in 1874 and devastated23 the vineyards. But they have been replanted with stocks from America, grafted24 with the indigenous25 vine, and these are strong and flourishing, and yield abundantly, the wine somewhat coarse at first, but mellowing26 as [Pg 105] the vine becomes more and more accustomed to the soil.
The huge crag surmounted27 by the ruins of the castle of Crussol is extensively quarried28. The stone is of a fawn29 colour, and receives a polish. The huge castle, with its rifted donjon called the Horns of Crussol, at one time contained a town within its enclosure. Now, all is ruin.
The family of Crussol was not of much note till Louis de Crussol gained the favour of Louis XI., and was appointed governor of Dauphiné. The son married the heiress of Uzès, and with her the title of viscount passed to their son Charles, whose son Antoine was created Duke of Uzès. The ruined castle belongs still to the Uzès family.
The castle was destroyed by Richelieu in 1623.
In my book, In Troubadour Land, I have told the story of how the Uzès race sprang from a strolling company of three travelling comedian30 brothers, and so will not here repeat it. On a terrace above the Miolan that enters the Rh?ne at S. Peray is the castle of Beauregard, formerly31 a State prison, now a café restaurant with a speciality in tripe32. So the whirligig of Time brings about its revenges.
The most interesting excursion among the Boutières is up the valley of the Erieux, that takes its rise above S. Agrève. It is a capricious river, at one time a small stream, at another a boiling torrent33. In the great flood of 1876 it rose forty feet, and rolled down three times the amount of water that does the Seine at Paris. It brings with it from the granite particles of gold, but not in sufficient amount to make it worth while searching for the precious metal.
[Pg 106]
The line up the valley is a masterpiece of engineering; in places it is carried in cornice along the face of the gorge, now cut out of the rock, and now on a terrace built up on arches. The river enters the Rh?ne a couple of miles above La Voute, but the junction34 of the line to Le Cheylard is at this place. La Voute sur Rh?ne is an ancient town planted at the foot of and scrambling35 up a rock crowned with the ruins of a castle of the great family of Ventadour. The old town, with its tortuous36 streets, its venerable but crumbling37 houses, its steep, ladder-like ascent38, is almost deserted39, life has run down and settled in modern houses at the foot. But even the new town is death-struck.
The iron mines which made the place prosperous, and in 1870 yielded 60,000 tons of ore, produced but 12,683 tons in 1891, and in the following year only 520; and now, none. Ruin has fallen on La Voute, and it is doubtful if it will ever recover. In the old castle of the Ventadours was set up the bureau of the company that worked the mines. Now the offices are ruinous and deserted, like the halls and towers of the feudal40 princes.
The fortress41 was begun in 1319, and enlarged and made splendid in 1582. Ichabod! Its glory is departed. The beautiful Renaissance42 chapel with its marbles and sculpture is crumbling away. The chapel is vaulted43 with delicate ribs44, and against the walls are carved a Resurrection and statues of the Duke and Duchess of Ventadour. But all, sculptured capitals of pilasters, dainty cornices, figures, have suffered under the hammers of the Revolutionary fanatics45.
In the valley of Erieux, where it opens out, vineyards have been staged up the mountain sides, in narrow [Pg 107] walled terraces, with infinite labour, and where there are not vines there are chestnuts46 and cherry trees. At S. Fortunat, the Dunière enters the Erieux, and hence a road leads to Vernoux, the Geneva of the Protestants of Upper Ardèche. It is mainly occupied by descendants of the Huguenots, but there are Catholics as well, living in a separate quarter. The Protestants are much divided among themselves. One sect47 is that of the Momiens, whose head-quarters are S. Agrève and Vernoux. They represent the original Huguenots far more truly than those who call themselves Evangelicals, for these latter have lapsed48 into Freethought, Indifference49, Agnosticism, and the best are Deists. The Momiens do not attend the "Temples Protestants," but hold their assemblies in the open air, in fact have camp meetings. Every one brings his provisions with him; they have exercises of prayer, psalm-singing, and exhortation50, and then all dine peaceably under the chestnut trees. They come into town only on Sundays and market-days, and do not frequent the public-houses. They have the character of being scrupulously51 honest.
Many of the Evangelicals never attend public worship. Out of eleven thousand inhabitants of Vernoux, about eight thousand are Protestants; they are able, accordingly, to engross52 all the offices and determine the elections. Conversions54 one way or the other are most rare, perhaps four or five in thirty years, and these only on account of marriages. The Protestant young men are desirous of getting Catholic wives, as the girls of this latter confession55 have a better moral character—being more carefully looked after by the clergy56 and sisters than are the others; but the curés in every way [Pg 108] oppose mixed marriages, which is a mistake, for no more effective missionary57 can be found than a God-fearing, consistent wife.
Unhappily party feeling runs strong. An old curé of Vernoux named Chifflet, with the help of a M. Demars, who was a large contributor, founded a hospital, and when it was complete handed it over to the town for general use without regard to denomination58. At once the town council elected a governing board, from which it excluded the principal donor59, M. Demars, because he was a Catholic, and struck off the name of M. Lanthois, the only Protestant in the place who had given a sou towards the hospital.
So when the Calvinist temple wanted rebuilding a rate was imposed on all the citizens, and the Catholics had to contribute as well as the Evangelicals. But when the Catholics desired to erect60 a church for themselves a rate was refused. If the proportions had been the other way on, without a doubt the Catholics would have acted with precisely61 the same intolerance.
As a curé said to me the other day: "Live and let live is not a principle we understand in France, and never have. We who are bullied62 to-day, if we get the upper hand to-morrow would bully63 in our turn."
Charles IX. could not have made a more grateful present to French Protestantism than the massacre of S. Bartholomew. It is to them a perpetual and cherished grievance64. They would not be without it any more than a professional mendicant65 would be without his sore. The massacre is introduced into every sermon, alluded66 to in every contingency67, thrown in the face of a Catholic in every dispute, flourished even at a wedding-breakfast. [Pg 109] A Calvinist infant is brought up on it. It is the first historic fact he has to acquire, and often when grown to man's estate is the only historic fact that he remembers. The massacre has been so rubbed into the minds of the Evangelicals that they cannot look in the face of their fellow-citizens of the other persuasion68 except through blood-red glass.
This temper sometimes produces vexatious results. In a village in the Boutières, where the meeting-house happened to possess a bell, one Sunday an old woman went to sleep during the discourse69, and did not wake when the congregation dispersed70; and being overlooked, was locked in. When she roused from her slumber71, she went to the bell-rope and pulled long and hard. At the sound of the tocsin all the Protestants within hearing were roused. Now at last the long-expected massacre was coming off. Women and children fled to the woods. The men barricaded72 their houses, loaded their rifles, and prepared to sell their lives dearly. The bell pealed73 on, every scrap74 of courage save among the most heroic sank to their stocking-soles, when the old woman, having failed to summon relief, took to relieving herself from her situation by flinging the rope out of a window and crawling down it. Parturiunt montes nascetur ridiculus mus.
In 1885, when at the election for the Legislature the Conservative list passed in its entirety, the Protestants of Les Boutières were so impressed with the revival75 of Catholic hopes and their successes that one of these panics fell on them. Indeed, they have a name for such, la pourasse.
Before the outbreak of the Revolution there were many little nobles and landed gentry76 in the country [Pg 110] whose chateaux are now in ruins or turned into farm-houses. They lived sociably78, giving dances, meeting for shooting-parties or games of tennis.
One of these was the Monsieur de Cachard. On June 24th, 1786, he gave a dance to his neighbours, but found a difficulty in getting musicians. He applied79 to the garrison80 at Valence, and was offered the drummer of the regiment81, who could also play the fife, and courteously82 he extended the invitation to any of the officers who would care to take a part in the entertainment. A young lieutenant83 accepted, his name was Napoleon Bonaparte, and he brought with him the drummer, Victor Beausoleil. Towards the conclusion of the ball, M. de Cachard went to the musician and asked how he could repay his services. "Only by letting me have a dance with mademoiselle your daughter." "By all means," replied the master of the house, and Beausoleil led out the young lady.
The Revolution came. The family of Cachard was dispersed; some were guillotined, some emigrated. At the Restoration, the head of the family went to Paris to solicit84 the restitution85 of some of the confiscated86 and sold estates. He solicited87 an audience with Marshal Victor, Duke of Belluno, minister of war. No sooner was he introduced, than the Duke started forward, grasped his hand and said: "Monsieur! we have not met since Midsummer Day, 1786, when I piped, and had the honour to dance with mademoiselle." The minister was, in fact, the drummer from Valence. He interested himself in the case and obtained for M. de Cachard the recovery of the ancient chateau77 and a portion of his lands. The Duke was wont88 to joke over his title. "As a drummer-boy I was Beausoleil. I have lost, not [Pg 111] gained, by becoming a duke, for now I am only Belluno (Belle Lune)."
The river Dunière sweeps past Vernoux, and the road from S. Fortunat to this town presents a succession of striking scenes. The gorge through which the Dunière enters the Erieux has precipitous sides, above which the mountains rise bare, or but meagrely dotted with evergreen89 oaks, that grow low and stunted90. Below rolls, leaps, and foams91 the torrent. In the contracted throat of Pontpierre, after the bursting of storms in the Cévennes, the water rises and writhes92 to escape, and issues from it into the valley of the Erieux as from a spout93. The road follows the edge of the chasm94 as far as Roumézoux, after which the hills fall back and allow of cultivation95. Then again they contract, but the gorge is less savage96, and is commanded on the left bank by one of the noblest ruins in the Vivarais. The Dunière flowing from the east receives a torrent descending97 from the north, and at this point rises a mighty98 crag on the top of which two lofty towers stand out sharply against the sky. They belong to the castle of La Tourette, close to Vernoux. According to popular tradition it was built by the Saracens; it was the feudal centre of the district and occupied by a Marquess de La Tourette. The castle was intact till the Revolution, and was a scene of much hospitality extended to the bourgeoisie of Vernoux, who danced in the great hall, hung with stamped and gilded99 leather. At the Revolution the castle was unroofed and ruin set in rapidly, as every one who wanted to build a pigsty100 or a factory used its walls as a quarry101. Happily of late years the family of La Tourette, that has its residence at Tournon, has repurchased the eagle nest of its ancestors and has put [Pg 112] a stop to the destruction. From its isolated102 rock the castle was connected by a drawbridge with a terrace, beyond which was the farm, a building of the sixteenth century, that had not been molested103. The terrace is sustained by a wall and was originally planted with trees, and must have been a delightful104 walk, suspended above the precipice105, and from which one could look down on the birds of prey106 darting107 and fluttering in the depths, and which also had their habitations in these rocks.
In 1671, the Marquess de La Tourette bought the barony of Chalen?on to the south of Vernoux. This was at one time one of the most powerful baronies in the country. It extended its jurisdiction109 over eighty parishes, all of which were bound to furnish men-at-arms when summoned to do so by the Seigneur of Chalen?on.
In 1523, Jean de Poitiers, father of the famous Diana, Baron108 of Chalen?on, was condemned110 to death for felony. But the beauty and the tears of his daughter saved his life; and after her father's death Diana became Baroness111 Chalen?on and Privas. She seems never to have set foot in either. This left-handed queen died in 1566, and bequeathed the barony to the youngest of her daughters, Louise, who had married in 1546 Claude de Lorraine, Duc d'Aumale. In the square of Chalen?on may be seen a gigantic elm, a Sully, one of the trees planted in all parishes on the conversion53 of Henry IV. The old castle was flanked by three towers, but was almost totally destroyed. It has been reconstructed.
The railway from S. Fortunat, where we abandoned it, deserves to be followed to its terminus at Le Cheylard, as it runs through some of the finest scenery in the Boutières to the cone112 of Mézenc, to which the chain hitches113 [Pg 113] itself on. Moreover, it has been finely engineered the whole way. But Le Cheylard itself is not a place of interest, being a modern manufacturing town, created by Lyons speculators calculating on the cheapness and abundance of labour in that part, where agriculture is hampered114 by the elevation115. The chateau of La Mothe is picturesque116, but has had the tops of its towers knocked off and rehatted.
Le Cheylard may be employed as quarters for a visit to Mézenc and the Gerbier de Jonc, if these have not been made an object of pilgrimage from Le Puy, and from this side they present a better appearance than from the other.
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1
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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massacre
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| n.残杀，大屠杀；v.残杀，集体屠杀 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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4
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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lateral
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| adj.侧面的，旁边的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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boisterous
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| adj.喧闹的，欢闹的 | |
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chestnut
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| n.栗树，栗子 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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conspirators
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| n.共谋者，阴谋家( conspirator的名词复数 ) | |
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psalms
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| n.赞美诗( psalm的名词复数 )；圣诗；圣歌；(中的) | |
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16
onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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celebrity
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| n.名人，名流；著名，名声，名望 | |
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champagne
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| n.香槟酒；微黄色 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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effervesce
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| v.冒泡，热情洋溢 | |
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devastated
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| v.彻底破坏( devastate的过去式和过去分词)；摧毁；毁灭；在感情上（精神上、财务上等）压垮adj.毁坏的；极为震惊的 | |
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grafted
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| 移植( graft的过去式和过去分词 )； 嫁接； 使（思想、制度等）成为（…的一部份）； 植根 | |
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indigenous
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| adj.土产的，土生土长的，本地的 | |
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mellowing
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| 软化，醇化 | |
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surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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quarried
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| v.从采石场采得( quarry的过去式和过去分词 )；从（书本等中）努力发掘（资料等）；在采石场采石 | |
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fawn
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| n.未满周岁的小鹿；v.巴结，奉承 | |
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comedian
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| n.喜剧演员；滑稽演员 | |
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formerly
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tripe
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| n.废话，肚子, 内脏 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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scrambling
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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feudal
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| adj.封建的，封地的，领地的 | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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renaissance
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| n.复活，复兴，文艺复兴 | |
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vaulted
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| adj.拱状的 | |
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ribs
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| n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 )；（船或屋顶等的）肋拱；肋骨状的东西；（织物的）凸条花纹 | |
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45
fanatics
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| 狂热者，入迷者( fanatic的名词复数 ) | |
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chestnuts
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| n.栗子( chestnut的名词复数 )；栗色；栗树；栗色马 | |
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sect
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| n.派别，宗教，学派，派系 | |
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48
lapsed
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| adj.流失的，堕落的v.退步( lapse的过去式和过去分词 )；陷入；倒退；丧失 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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exhortation
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| n.劝告，规劝 | |
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51
scrupulously
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| adv.一丝不苟地；小心翼翼地，多顾虑地 | |
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52
engross
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| v.使全神贯注 | |
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conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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conversions
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| 变换( conversion的名词复数 )； （宗教、信仰等）彻底改变； （尤指为居住而）改建的房屋； 橄榄球（触地得分后再把球射中球门的）附加得分 | |
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confession
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| n.自白，供认，承认 | |
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56
clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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denomination
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| n.命名，取名，(度量衡、货币等的)单位 | |
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donor
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| n.捐献者；赠送人；(组织、器官等的)供体 | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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bullied
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| adj.被欺负了v.恐吓，威逼( bully的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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bully
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| n.恃强欺弱者，小流氓；vt.威胁，欺侮 | |
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grievance
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| n.怨愤，气恼，委屈 | |
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mendicant
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| n.乞丐；adj.行乞的 | |
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alluded
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| 提及，暗指( allude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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67
contingency
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| n.意外事件，可能性 | |
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68
persuasion
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| n.劝说；说服；持有某种信仰的宗派 | |
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discourse
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| n.论文，演说；谈话；话语；vi.讲述，著述 | |
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dispersed
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| adj. 被驱散的, 被分散的, 散布的 | |
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slumber
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| n.睡眠，沉睡状态 | |
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barricaded
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| 设路障于，以障碍物阻塞( barricade的过去式和过去分词 )； 设路障[防御工事]保卫或固守 | |
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73
pealed
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| v.（使）（钟等）鸣响，（雷等）发出隆隆声( peal的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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74
scrap
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| n.碎片；废料；v.废弃，报废 | |
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revival
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| n.复兴，复苏，（精力、活力等的）重振 | |
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gentry
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| n.绅士阶级，上层阶级 | |
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chateau
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| n.城堡，别墅 | |
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sociably
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| adv.成群地 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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regiment
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| n.团，多数，管理；v.组织，编成团，统制 | |
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courteously
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| adv.有礼貌地，亲切地 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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solicit
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| vi.勾引；乞求；vt.请求，乞求；招揽(生意) | |
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restitution
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| n.赔偿；恢复原状 | |
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confiscated
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| 没收，充公( confiscate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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solicited
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| v.恳求( solicit的过去式和过去分词 )；（指娼妇）拉客；索求；征求 | |
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wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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evergreen
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| n.常青树；adj.四季常青的 | |
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stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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foams
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| n.泡沫，泡沫材料( foam的名词复数 ) | |
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writhes
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| （因极度痛苦而）扭动或翻滚( writhe的第三人称单数 ) | |
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spout
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| v.喷出，涌出；滔滔不绝地讲；n.喷管；水柱 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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pigsty
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| n.猪圈，脏房间 | |
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quarry
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| n.采石场；v.采石；费力地找 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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molested
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| v.骚扰( molest的过去式和过去分词 )；干扰；调戏；猥亵 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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darting
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的现在分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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baron
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| n.男爵；(商业界等)巨头，大王 | |
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jurisdiction
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| n.司法权，审判权，管辖权，控制权 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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111
baroness
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| n.男爵夫人，女男爵 | |
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112
cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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113
hitches
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| 暂时的困难或问题( hitch的名词复数 )； 意外障碍； 急拉； 绳套 | |
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114
hampered
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| 妨碍，束缚，限制( hamper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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115
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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116
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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