We now come to Rum, “superior old Jamaica pine-apple,” otherwise known as “sailors’ tea”—the spirit in question having from time im-me-mo-rial been held in high esteem6 by mariners7 both afloat and ashore8. Rum is probably one of the easiest beverages9 to make, being, simply, fermented10 and distilled11 cane-sugar. Occasionally pine-apples and guavas are thrown into the still, but in making this spirit on a large scale no attempts are made to add to its flavour and thereby12 deduct13 from the profits to be made on the commodity. It is coloured with caramel, and the longer you keep it the better and, therefore, the more valuable, it becomes. In the city {84} of Carlisle in the year 1865 some rum known to be 140 years old was sold for ￡3?:?3s. per bottle.
This is not the brand served out to our army and navy; although the “tots” issued periodically to Tommy Atkins and Ben Bowline consist of good, sound liquor, wholesome14 enough, save for gouty subjects—and a sailor with the gout would be of about as much use to his Queen and country as a watch without works—and writing from past experience I can aver15 that every drop of liquor, whether ale or rum, supplied in a regimental canteen had to be previously16 passed by a committee of “taste.” In many ships, nowadays, no rum or other intoxicant is served out; and as no equivalent is given, it might appear as though the owners made a good thing out of the temperate17 habits of their crews. But I do not believe in total abstinence as an aid to work; and I have never seen a sailor the worse—on board ship—for his “tot.” On the other hand, in the old days of “Green’s” troop-ships, the old sailing-vessels which made the voyage to India round the Cape19 of Good Hope, it was by no means infrequent for a soldier to be “overcome” by the cane-spirit, of which he occasionally got rather more than his orthodox allowance.
How was this managed? The thrifty20 seafarers were in the habit of selling their grog allowance to the “swaddies”; and as soon as the ship’s captain found this out, he issued stringent21 regulations which it might have been expected would put a stop to this practice. When all hands were piped to grog a ship’s officer was {85} stationed by the tub, to see that each sailor drank his allowance. Still there was intoxication22 amongst the troops, and it was discovered that many of the sailors’ pannikins had false bottoms, and that in this way the rum was concealed23. After that the ship’s officer was enjoined24 to see that each sailor partook of his tot; but even this precaution failed; for the rum would be ejected from the men’s mouths into a bucket in the fo’c’sle, and then sold—a disgusting practice which merited severe punishment, and frequently obtained it.
We English do not make nearly as much use of rum in cookery as do our lively neighbours. One of the most approved of entremets is an omelette au rhum, a truly grateful dish, if the omelette be properly made, although rum be spelt with an “h.” But it is a mistake to use rum-sauce with plum-pudding, as do the French; for brandy is a far better digestive of the cloying25 materials of which the pudding is composed. As mentioned in Cakes and Ale, rum-and-milk is said, by the chief English authority on dietetics26, to be the most powerful restorative known to man. This may, or may not, be true; I am prepared to back a judicious27 dose of “the Boy”—not limited to a “split pint28,” either. But of all horrible mixtures, defend me from rum-and-ale, which used to be a potion much in favour with the dangerous classes of our metropolis29, in the days when I went “slumming” in search of plain unvarnished facts. A steaming tumbler of rum and hot water, with a piece of butter melted therein, was, in my younger days, in vogue30 as an infallible {86} specific to eject a cold from the head. Nowadays, I prefer the cold.
Gin is supposed by students, who do not make practical test of their learning, to be distilled from malt, or from unmalted barley31, or from some other grain, and afterwards rectified32 and flavoured. And just as it was (according to Mr. Samuel Weller) the seasoning which did it in the case of the cheap pies, so is it the rectifying, and the flavouring which do it, in the matter of gin. Occasionally “rectifying” is hardly the right word to use. That there is such a thing as wholesome, tolerably-pure gin is more than probable; but there is also a very undesirable33 fluid sold to the poorer classes, and esteemed34 by their vitiated palates, known under different pet names, of which “blue ruin” and “white satin” are two. This brand of gin is flavoured more or less with oil of turpentine and common salt. No wonder thirst stalks abroad next morning!
“In one well-known hostelry,” observes a writer in a daily newspaper, “situated not a stone’s throw from the Bank of England, you can, if you be so minded, ask for and obtain a farthing’s worth of gin. It is served in tiny liqueur-glasses, and the custom dates from the time when the purchasing power of the coin in question was far greater than it is now, and when consequently, a farthing’s worth of gin was considered to be a sufficient quantity for any respectable citizen. Another public-house, in Bishopsgate Street, is also compelled, by the terms of its license35, to supply a farthing’s worth of either ‘gin, rum, or shrub,’ to any customer requiring {87} it; while not far away is a hostelry which is permitted to carry on the dual36 businesses of liquor-dispensing or pawnbroking37. Yet another City public-house possesses a sort of annexe where medicines are retailed38. Handy, this, for the unhappy sufferer from swelled39 head.”
I suppose as the above has appeared in a newspaper, it is strictly40 true. But how sad! Although my knowledge of London is “peculiar” I cannot say I am acquainted with the licensed41 house in which drawing drinks and taking in pledges are combined; but I have seen farthing’s worths of “Old Tom” dispensed42 in more than one hostelry, to slatternly women, before my own breakfast hour, and I have shuddered43 at the sight. But why stop short at selling medicines in the annexe of a dram shop? I should have thought an undertaker, in another compartment44, might do a fairish trade.
These are some of the ingredients put into gin, to give it “body,” and make it “bite”—gin without teeth being notoriously inferior tipple45 and altogether unfit for the consumption of the good ladies who are, sad to say, by far the best customers of the gin retailer:—roach-alum (this sounds fishy), salt of tartar, oil of juniper, cassia, nutmeg, lemon, fennel, and carraway and coriander seeds, cardamoms, capsicums, and sulphuric acid. All these, mind ye, besides the afore-mentioned oil of turpentine, and the afore-mentioned potato-spirit, which last would seem to enter into most drinks of the day.
The word “Gin” is really an abbreviation of “Geneva,” under which name the spirit was at {88} one time known. Not that it is principally man-u-fac-tured in picturesque46 Switzerland, where the watches come from; but “Geneva” is a corruption47 of the old French word genevre, the juniper. I used to read, in childhood’s days, that
Juniper berries and barley make gin,
but those ingredients—or the berries, at all events—would seem to be only regularly used in Holland, nowadays.
“Dirty” gin, of which we used to hear so much, was, I believe, as pure as any other geneva, and not less clean. Plymouth gin is said to be the healthiest form of the article, but ’tis an acquired taste, and “Old Tom” is certainly more toothsome. In entering as fully48 into details as I have above I have no wish to discourage the consumption of gin proper, especially when blended with ginger-beer (an excellent summer beverage), or doing duty in a cock-tail, a sling49, a punch, or a John Collins. But I am not a “gin man” myself. And to my mind a “nip” less calculated to promote appetite than any other is a “gin-and-bitters.”
“Kosher” rum, i.e. rum treated according to instructions laid down in the Mosaic50 Law, is in high favour with the Jews; and in some of the taverns51 which abut53 on the Israelitish quarters which are about Aldgate there are recognized “rum-rooms.” There used to be, and probably is at the present day, a considerable amount of card—playing (spieling) or throwing of dice for wagers54, carried on in these apartments; and I once knew a son of Judah who was heavily fined {89} by the stipendiary magistrate55, for gambling on licensed premises56. To the day of his death this Jew protested his innocence57 of the crime.
He told me the whole story, interlarded with tears and gesticulations.
The rozzers (detectives) raided the rum-room one afternoon, and created considerable commotion58. Some of the imbibers managed to make their escape, but my informant was not so fortunate. He was seized by one minion59 of the law, and shortly afterwards another officer cried:
“See where he has hidden the dice in his tumbler of Old Jamaica!”
“And, may I die,” added the poor Yid, “if the gonoph (rascal) hadn’t placed ’em there himself—don’t yer beliefe me?”
Of course I did.
Here is another way of employing rum; but you will not be able to shine at solo-whist afterwards.
Rum Booze.
The yolks of eight eggs well beaten up, with some sifted60 sugar, and a grated nutmeg; extract the juice from rind of a lemon by rubbing loaf sugar thereon; put the sugar, a piece of cinnamon, and a bottle of white wine into a clean saucepan, and when the wine boils take it off the fire. Pour one glass of cold sherry into it, put it into a spouted62 jug63 (I don’t mean hypothecated, but a jug with a spout61 to it) and pour it gradually amongst the egg mixture, keeping the whole well stirred with a spoon as the wine is poured in. Sweeten to taste, and pour the mixture from one vessel18 to another until a fine white froth is obtained. {90}
The recipe continues. “Half a pint of rum is sometimes added, but it is then very intoxicating64.”
But sans rum whence the Rum Booze? Port Wine is sometimes substituted for white wine, but is not considered so palatable65. This liquor should be drunk when quite hot. If the wine be poured boiling hot among the eggs, the mixture will become curdled66.
Without the rum the mixture is one form of Egg Flip67.
When treating of gin I should have mentioned that at one well-known City hostelry, “The Olde Cheshyre Cheese” in Wine Office Court, Fleet Street, gin is never known by any other name than “rack.” Why, I know not. But in the same old tavern52 should you require Scotch68 Whisky you must call for “Scotch,” without mentioning the word whisky; and if Irish, “Cork” is the password.
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1
rectifying
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| 改正，矫正( rectify的现在分词 )； 精馏； 蒸流； 整流 | |
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seasoning
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| n.调味；调味料；增添趣味之物 | |
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gambling
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| n.赌博；投机 | |
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propensities
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| n.倾向，习性( propensity的名词复数 ) | |
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dice
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| n.骰子；vt.把（食物）切成小方块，冒险 | |
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esteem
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| n.尊敬，尊重；vt.尊重，敬重；把…看作 | |
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mariners
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| 海员，水手（mariner的复数形式） | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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beverages
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| n.饮料( beverage的名词复数 ) | |
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10
fermented
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| v.（使）发酵( ferment的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）激动；骚动；骚扰 | |
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11
distilled
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| adj.由蒸馏得来的v.蒸馏( distil的过去式和过去分词 )；从…提取精华 | |
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12
thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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deduct
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| vt.扣除，减去 | |
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14
wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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15
aver
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| v.极力声明；断言；确证 | |
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16
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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17
temperate
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| adj.温和的，温带的，自我克制的，不过分的 | |
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18
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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19
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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20
thrifty
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| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
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21
stringent
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| adj.严厉的；令人信服的；银根紧的 | |
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22
intoxication
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| n.wild excitement;drunkenness；poisoning | |
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23
concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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24
enjoined
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| v.命令( enjoin的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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cloying
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| adj.甜得发腻的 | |
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26
dietetics
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| n.营养学 | |
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27
judicious
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| adj.明智的，明断的，能作出明智决定的 | |
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28
pint
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| n.品脱 | |
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29
metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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30
Vogue
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| n.时髦，时尚；adj.流行的 | |
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31
barley
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| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
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32
rectified
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| [医]矫正的，调整的 | |
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33
undesirable
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| adj.不受欢迎的，不良的，不合意的，讨厌的；n.不受欢迎的人，不良分子 | |
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34
esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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35
license
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| n.执照，许可证，特许；v.许可，特许 | |
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dual
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| adj.双的；二重的，二元的 | |
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pawnbroking
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| n.典当业 | |
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retailed
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| vt.零售（retail的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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39
swelled
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| 增强( swell的过去式和过去分词 )； 肿胀； （使）凸出； 充满（激情） | |
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40
strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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41
licensed
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| adj.得到许可的v.许可，颁发执照(license的过去式和过去分词) | |
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42
dispensed
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| v.分配( dispense的过去式和过去分词 )；施与；配（药） | |
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43
shuddered
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| v.战栗( shudder的过去式和过去分词 )；发抖；（机器、车辆等）突然震动；颤动 | |
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44
compartment
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| n.卧车包房，隔间；分隔的空间 | |
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45
tipple
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| n.常喝的酒；v.不断喝，饮烈酒 | |
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46
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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47
corruption
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| n.腐败，堕落，贪污 | |
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48
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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49
sling
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| vt.扔；悬挂；n.挂带；吊索，吊兜；弹弓 | |
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50
mosaic
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| n./adj.镶嵌细工的，镶嵌工艺品的，嵌花式的 | |
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51
taverns
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| n.小旅馆，客栈，酒馆( tavern的名词复数 ) | |
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52
tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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53
abut
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| v.接界，毗邻 | |
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54
wagers
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| n.赌注，用钱打赌( wager的名词复数 )v.在（某物）上赌钱，打赌( wager的第三人称单数 )；保证，担保 | |
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55
magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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56
premises
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| n.建筑物，房屋 | |
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57
innocence
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| n.无罪；天真；无害 | |
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58
commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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59
minion
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| n.宠仆；宠爱之人 | |
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60
sifted
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| v.筛( sift的过去式和过去分词 )；筛滤；细查；详审 | |
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61
spout
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| v.喷出，涌出；滔滔不绝地讲；n.喷管；水柱 | |
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62
spouted
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| adj.装有嘴的v.（指液体）喷出( spout的过去式和过去分词 )；滔滔不绝地讲；喋喋不休地说；喷水 | |
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63
jug
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| n.(有柄，小口，可盛水等的)大壶，罐，盂 | |
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64
intoxicating
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| a. 醉人的,使人兴奋的 | |
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65
palatable
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| adj.可口的，美味的；惬意的 | |
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66
curdled
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| v.（使）凝结( curdle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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67
flip
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| vt.快速翻动；轻抛；轻拍；n.轻抛；adj.轻浮的 | |
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68
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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