The early hours of the next morning were devoted2 to sketching3 and photography, and after a midday lunch we mounted for a ride, of some nine hours, to Haifa. We soon found ourselves back in the plain, with the great precipice4 of Carmel before us for our goal. The general features of the country were the same as yesterday, except that we had the River Kishon for our companion. Even the slight amount of rain which had fallen had had its effect here, and the road in parts was heavy enough to disconcert the horses, who picked their way as daintily as if they remembered nothing of the fact that it had rained, with considerable mud as a result, even in their own royal city of Jerusalem, only nine months ago. We could not wonder, {245} however, that the River Kishon should have swept away the hosts of Sisera, for on ground such as this the horse-hoofs might well be "broken by means of the prancings," and nine hundred chariots of iron, hemmed5 in between the river and the steep hillside, would have a very poor chance, especially in the rainy season, which one may imagine it to have been, as Jael, whom one thinks of as of the Medici, or the knitting-women of the Fronde, "brought forth6 butter in a lordly dish"; and butter, except at a prohibitive price, at a convent or two in Jerusalem, is not to be had in the summer months. Surely so vile7 a woman was never celebrated8 in song!
The flowers were an endless feast; never had we seen anemones10 of so many shades, and perhaps the greatest event of the day was the finding of the first jonquils, narcissus tazetta. We had been watching their deep green homes for the last three days, but this was the first time we had been rewarded. Both the Doctors contrived11 to possess themselves, upon an island in the river, although with some difficulty, of a great handful of the sweet-smelling blooms, the firstlings of our New Year's Day. A few minutes later we came to a couple of bridges, {246} one for the railway and one for the road, and from that point we were more or less in sight of the railway all the time. Some of the horses made a great fuss about the passing of a train, for, although the line is not yet formally open for passenger traffic, a train runs every day in each direction for the convenience of the engineers. Just at sunset, after about eight hours' travelling, we came in view of the lights of Haifa, twinkling along the shore, with only the palms and minarets13 to dispel14 the illusion that it might be Brighton or Hastings. Carmel was before us, the great landmark15 of the Palestine coast, boldly leaping out into the sea, its lighthouse throwing out a friendly welcome, rather, perhaps, than a warning, to those who go down to the sea in ships. This is the one spot on all the Syrian coast remotely resembling a harbour; elsewhere are only ledges16 for sea-birds, rocks inviting17 to wreckage19, and Nile sand brought up by the currents flowing north. The Ph?nicians, of whom alone among all the inhabitants of Syria we can think as a seafaring people, traded from farther north. Little wonder that the people of such a land should welcome the promise, so strange to other ears: "There shall be no more sea!" For many months in the year the inhabitants {247} of Jud?a can count on letters only "if they can land at Jaffa," and constantly, even when mail-bags can be tossed into the small boats, which alone can come ashore20, passengers are carried past, northward21 to Beirut, or south to Egypt, to make a fresh attempt, often two or three times repeated; and every year has its record of drowning and disaster.
Sir John Maundeville, who is never at a loss to account for anything that comes in his way, gravely assures us that there was here formerly22 "a good city of the Christians23 called Caiphas, because Caiaphas first founded it." The town of Haifa (the Arabic name being variously transliterated Haifa and Caifa) is the old Sycaminum; the modern town, however, stands farther within the bay than the old, the ruins of which are still visible at the foot of Mount Carmel. It was built in the middle of the eighteenth century by Dhaher, a famous governor of the neighbouring Acre or Akko, which is the old Ptolemais.
Our quarters at Haifa were at the farther end of the town, and after passing through streets which, though better than in many places, are decidedly Oriental as to width, paving, and dirt, it was reposeful24 to find ourselves in the German colony—a picturesque25 European village: wide {248} streets planted with trees, well-kept roads, gardens gay with flowers, and houses which seem to have been transported from some quaint26, old country town, each with its text in "black letter" over the door. One, above all others, was to some among us almost a place of pilgrimage, with all its associations of a man of genius unappreciated, misunderstood—one of the many messengers who, with hands laden27 with gifts, sought to come unto his own, and his own received him not!
Wohl denen, die das Gebot halten und thun immerdar Recht.
Hans Oliphant.
Not England, and not America, carry on his work of—literally—sweetness and light, but the Germans. Haifa is practically a German town so far as its trade, agriculture, and property are concerned. Even the Russian, American, and, till lately, the English consuls28 are Germans, and most officials, of whatever nationality, reside in the colony. The hotels, shops, and banks are German. The Roman Catholic hospital and hospice are in the hands of a German sisterhood; the sanatorium on Mount Carmel with its luxurious29 accommodation and extensive grounds, {249} rendezvous30 of English missionaries31, is conducted by Germans.
The Scottish medical mission, here as elsewhere preaching the Gospel of good deeds, has an admirable hospital. The Jerusalem and the East Mission has a chaplain. The great hospice on Mount Carmel is maintained by the Carmelite Fathers. Out of 12,000 inhabitants half are Moslems, sixteen hundred Jews, and about a thousand Greek, Orthodox, and Latins. Of the six hundred Europeans, five hundred are Germans; the rest of the population is mainly Maronite and Greek Catholic.
Plain living and high thinking are, of course, the ideal of life, but there is a joy in unpacking33, in a hot bath, in a white table-cloth. Our companions at table were mainly German engineers and contractors34, at work on the new railway. We regretted that we were too late to see the opening ceremony of a few days before, which seems to have presented some interesting features, and was certainly a triumph for the Turkish Government. In spite of its execution having been German—for even when in English hands its surveyor was Dr Schumacher, the German-American Vice-Consul—the Moslem32 ownership of the railway has not been lost sight of, and {250} it is an interesting anomaly that its inauguration35 was accompanied by the sacrifice of several sheep. Their throats were cut, the blood poured upon the soil, and the flesh roasted and given to the poor. This is done "for a blessing36." How far this savage37 ceremony is a perpetuation38 of the Old Testament39 idea of propitiating40 the Deity41, how far it is done to avert42 the attention of the jinn, it is impossible to say. Similar ceremonies are performed, both by Moslems and Christians, at the initiation43 of any undertaking,[3] from the opening of public works to the building of a dwelling-house, the anointing with blood being a necessary element.
To our great regret we were now to lose our friend "Baedeker," to whom we owed so much of pleasure and information. We had given him, in return, much valuable advice on how to construct a guide-book, framed on the analogy of certain specimens44 beloved of tourists, from which we had culled45 choice extracts for frequent quotation46, the general principles of which seemed to be hasty generalisation and the inculcation of moral lessons. We may incidentally mention that the longer and better one knows Syria the more one learns to appreciate {251} the blessings47 of Baedeker and to value its extreme accuracy, even in the smallest particulars.
We devoted the next day to renewing our stock of provisions at the excellent shops, visiting friends, and, finally, to a ride up Mount Carmel. Last year an Austrian boat, the Posseidon, came ashore in this very treacherous48 harbour, and among other passengers rescued from the wreck18 were a cat and kittens, belonging to the son of the captain. These kittens found a kindly49 welcome among the German population, and in two houses were introduced to our notice with much pride. They were evidently accustomed to attention, for their self-esteem exceeded that of even other cats "subject to vanity," and their Angora lineage, short faces, tufted ears, bushy tales, and black toes justified50 their claim to admiration51. The Arab cat leaves little to be desired as to pelage, but, as a rule, his markings, black on white, would disgrace a fox-terrier. He is, for the most part, well treated in Palestine, and, in consequence, extremely intelligent; but, like the Arabs themselves, and the Arab donkeys, is too much en evidence for perfect good breeding, and his "flashes of silence" are very occasional, and generally due to sleep or food.
{252} The ride up Mount Carmel was an occasion never to be forgotten. The new carriage road climbs the four hundred and eighty feet which lead to the convent in wide sweeps, and is very easy; but the direct ascent52 is abrupt53, and the views proportionately impressive. Northward, the crescent-shaped bay terminated in Acre, with all its associations of crusading times; while far below us Haifa, and all its gardens, offered, perhaps, the most smiling and prosperous picture which Palestine had ever shown us. The detached houses, buried in trees; the unwonted completeness and order of the cultivation54; the miles of terraced vineyards, parents of the excellent Haifa wine; the picturesque German colony; the estates of Selim Effendi Khuri—the millionaire of a district in which are many rich men, mainly Germans; the orange and lemon gardens, with their wealth of fruit, here a flame of bougainvilea, there a bower55 of fragrant56 jessamine, at intervals57 a group of stately palms—where else can we find a prospect58 such as this?
And then, when we reached the top, was there ever such a rock garden as extends for miles along the summit of Carmel, the mountain which travellers abuse, and for which guide-books apologise? Did ever a January sky shine over {253} a more marvellous wealth of beauty and of promise? Rocks of limestone59 and hornstone; a general effect of greenness, kept fresh at all times of the year owing to the neighbourhood of the sea and the constant dews; scattered60 shade of sapling oaks, of carobs, hawthorns61, elders, Guelder-roses, pomegranates, acacias, almonds now laden with bloom, arbutus, and tamarisks; an undergrowth of azalea, genista, rock-rose, juniper, a tangle62 of the glorious clematis cirrhosa, with its delicate greenish blossom; myrtles, and "the slender galingale"; ferns in every shady nook—the felis-mas, asplenium-trichomanes, the scented63 fern; cheilanthes-fragrans, the waving maiden-hair—a feast of colour and sweetness; cyclamen, crimson64, pink, and white; hyacinths, blue; chrysanthemums65, golden; mandrakes, royal purple; periwinkle, sapphire66; anemone9 coronaria, scarlet67, purple, pink, white; the stately narcissus and sweet jonquils; crocuses, golden, purple, and white. And then the promise! How we longed to wait a week or two, as we watched the strong green swords of the bulbous and tuberous plants preparing to defend their coming treasure; the irises68, great and small; the gladioli, the squills, the star of Bethlehem, the hyacinths, the arums, the orchises. Soon, too, there would be adonis, {254} red and yellow; scarlet ranunculus, chrysanthemums, and later, asphodels, lupins, scented stocks, lychnis, geraniums of many kinds, centaureas, valerian and a hundred other blooms, which had sent no word of their coming, and at which we could only guess. To catalogue only seems a sort of profanation69.
"I touch,
But cannot praise; I love too much."
There, for the first time, we saw the beautiful little sun-bird, although it is said to be common in the Jericho district. To the uninstructed it is a humming-bird, although one is assured that they exist only in the New World. It is little over four inches long, radiantly attired70 in purple, green, and blue, with brilliant orange tufts upon his shoulders, a wonderful metallic71 sheen over all, and a long, curved bill. The little lady who accompanies him, though far more humbly72 dressed, is also dainty and fascinating in brown shot with green. Another tiny bird which gave us much delight was the long-tailed wren73, drym?ca gracilis, which runs up tamarisk-trees like a tit, with a little fan spread open behind it.
The scene gave a new meaning to familiar words: "The desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose. It shall blossom abundantly: the glory {255} of Lebanon shall be given unto it, the excellency of Carmel and Sharon." The flowers of Lebanon and Sharon are also a joy and delight to the beauty-loving eye, but to our fancy the excellency of Carmel is supreme74. The mountain at its highest point is less than two thousand feet, but, rising sheer from the sea, is more imposing75 than many mountains of greater elevation76. The entire length of the range does not exceed fifteen miles; but as only two villages, occupied mainly by Druses and Greek Catholics, occur to break its solitude77, wild beasts—jackals, hy?nas, wild boars, and even occasional panthers—are still more or less in possession, although the cultivation of vines for the famous Haifa vintage, has carried civilisation78 and humanity to a considerable distance.
Of course, we visited the convent, with all its hospitalities and its interesting historical associations: its memories of pious79 anchorites, of their union, in the fifth century, with one of the earliest religious orders; of the Benedictines who, early in the ninth century, built the Church of St Margaret; of St Louis; of massacres80 which laid desolate81 the convent; of the church turned into a mosque82; and finally of the restoration of the order, with permission to rebuild. The {256} monastery83 was used as a hospital when Napoleon besieged84 Acre, and the wounded, murdered by the Turks, lie under a small pyramid in the convent garden. Destroyed once more by the Pasha of Acre in 1821, the buildings have been again restored on a scale to accommodate the large pilgrimages which come every year from Europe. Even more humble85 pilgrims, natives or Hindoos—for "the grotto86 of Elijah" and the "school of the prophets" are venerated87 also by Moslems—are not forgotten, and a special building is provided for them at the base of the lighthouse, which is under the care of the monastery. It is said that an Italian, Brother Giovanni of Frascati, is the real author of the reconstruction88 of the Carmelite prosperity, for, sent by the general of the order to inquire into the condition of things, he found only wrecked89 walls, and, as sole survivor90 of the order, a single brother, who had taken refuge in Haifa. A firman was obtained from Constantinople, and the two brothers devoted themselves to the collection of funds, with such results that in 1827, six years after its destruction, a new foundation stone was laid by Giovanni himself. Liberal gifts must have followed, for, though severe in style, the buildings are very spacious91 and solid, and include {257} a good library, very handsome church, oratory92, and chapter-house.
A small chamber93, little more than a cave, said to have been the habitation of the three poor Carmelites who inaugurated the return of the order in 1636, has been recently converted into a chapel94 dedicated95 to St Simon Stock, the Kentishman who was general of the order in Palestine in 1245.
We lingered to see the sunset clouds gather above the Mediterranean96, and then rode over the top of the ridge12, and so back to the town, almost grudging97 to go indoors as the stars sprang out and the red roofs and green palms and olives of the German village faded away into greys and purples. After dinner we had the privilege of examining Dr Schumacher's precious little museum at the American consulate98, and of seeing the map of his survey of the East Jordanland, the first that has yet been completed.
[3] Curtiss, op. cit. Chap. xiv.
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1
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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sketching
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| n.草图 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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hemmed
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| 缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 )； 包围 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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vile
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| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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anemone
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| n.海葵 | |
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anemones
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| n.银莲花( anemone的名词复数 )；海葵 | |
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contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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dispel
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| vt.驱走，驱散，消除 | |
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landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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wreck
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| n.失事，遇难；沉船；vt.(船等)失事，遇难 | |
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wreckage
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| n.（失事飞机等的）残骸，破坏，毁坏 | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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reposeful
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| adj.平稳的，沉着的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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consuls
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| 领事( consul的名词复数 )； （古罗马共和国时期）执政官 （古罗马共和国及其军队的最高首长，同时共有两位，每年选举一次） | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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rendezvous
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| n.约会，约会地点，汇合点；vi.汇合，集合；vt.使汇合，使在汇合地点相遇 | |
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missionaries
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| n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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Moslem
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| n.回教徒，穆罕默德信徒；adj.回教徒的，回教的 | |
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unpacking
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| n.取出货物，拆包[箱]v.从（包裹等）中取出（所装的东西），打开行李取出( unpack的现在分词 )；拆包；解除…的负担；吐露（心事等） | |
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contractors
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inauguration
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blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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perpetuation
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testament
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| n.遗嘱；证明 | |
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propitiating
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| v.劝解，抚慰，使息怒( propitiate的现在分词 ) | |
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deity
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| n.神，神性；被奉若神明的人(或物) | |
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avert
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| v.防止，避免；转移(目光、注意力等) | |
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initiation
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| n.开始 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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culled
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| v.挑选，剔除( cull的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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quotation
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| n.引文，引语，语录；报价，牌价，行情 | |
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blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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52
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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56
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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hawthorns
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| n.山楂树( hawthorn的名词复数 ) | |
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tangle
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| n.纠缠；缠结；混乱；v.(使)缠绕；变乱 | |
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scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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chrysanthemums
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| n.菊花( chrysanthemum的名词复数 ) | |
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sapphire
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| n.青玉，蓝宝石；adj.天蓝色的 | |
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scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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irises
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| n.虹( iris的名词复数 )；虹膜；虹彩；鸢尾（花） | |
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profanation
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| n.亵渎 | |
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attired
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| adj.穿着整齐的v.使穿上衣服，使穿上盛装( attire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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metallic
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| adj.金属的；金属制的；含金属的；产金属的；像金属的 | |
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humbly
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| adv. 恭顺地，谦卑地 | |
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wren
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| n.鹪鹩；英国皇家海军女子服务队成员 | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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massacres
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| 大屠杀( massacre的名词复数 )； 惨败 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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besieged
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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grotto
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| n.洞穴 | |
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venerated
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| 敬重（某人或某事物），崇敬( venerate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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reconstruction
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| n.重建，再现，复原 | |
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wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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survivor
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| n.生存者，残存者，幸存者 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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oratory
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| n.演讲术；词藻华丽的言辞 | |
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chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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grudging
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| adj.勉强的，吝啬的 | |
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consulate
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| n.领事馆 | |
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