Aigueperse, on the contrary, spite of its situation in the same sunny luxuriant plain, presents the morose4 aspect of the typical town of Auvergne, without many compensating5 merits, save that of two striking pictures of the Italian school which are to be seen in its modernised cathedral.67 From Aigueperse our road struck eastward6 across the Limagne to Gannat; and thence, through pleasant fields and woods, we returned to Vichy, on the opposite edge of the plain.
We started early the next morning on our journey to the north, for our slight experience of the inns of central France made us anxious to reach Orléans by night. Such long runs cannot be made without the sacrifice of much that charms and arrests one by the way; and this part of the country should be seen at leisure, in the long summer days, when the hotels are less sepulchrally7 damp, and when one can remain late out of doors, instead of having to shiver through the evening hours around a smoky oil-lamp, in a room which will not bear inspection8 even by that inadequate9 light.
We suffered, I remember, many pangs10 by the way; and not least, that of having to take as a mere12 parenthesis13 the charmingly complete little town of La Palisse on the Bèbre, with the ruined ivied castle of the Comtes de Chabannes overhanging a curve of the river, and grouping itself in a memorable14 composition with the picturesque15 houses below it.
68 Farther north, again, Moulins on the Allier inflicted16 a still deeper pang11; for this fine old town has considerable claims to distinction besides the great triptych that made its name known through Europe after the recent exhibition of French Primitives17 in Paris. The Virgin18 of Moulins, gloriously enthroned in the cathedral among her soft-faced Lombard angels, remains19 undoubtedly20 the crowning ornament21 of the town, if only on account of the problem which she holds out, so inscrutably, to explorers of the baffling annals of early French art. But aside from this pre?minent possession, and the interest of several minor22 relics23, Moulins has the attraction of its own amiable24 and distinguished25 physiognomy. With its streets of light-coloured stone, its handsome eighteenth-century h?tels and broad well-paved cours, it seemed, after the grim black towns of the south, a singularly open and cheerful place; and one was conscious, behind the handsome stone gateways26 and balconied fa?ades, of the existence of old panelled drawing-rooms with pastel portraits and faded tapestry27 furniture.
The approach to Nevers, the old capital of the Nivernais, carried us abruptly28 back to the Middle69 Ages, but to an exuberant29 northern medi?valism far removed from the Gallo-Roman tradition of central France. The cathedral of Nevers, with its ornate portals and fantastically decorated clock-tower, has, in the old ducal palace across the square, a rival more than capable of meeting its challenge on equal grounds: a building of really gallant30 exterior31, with fine angle towers, and within, a great staircase commemorating32 in luxuriant sculpture the legendary33 beginnings of that ancient house of Cleves which, in the fifteenth century, allied34 itself by marriage with the dukes of Burgundy.
At Nevers we found ourselves once more on the Loire; but only to break from it again in a long dash across country to Bourges. At this point we left behind us the charming diversified35 scenery which had accompanied us to the borders of the Loire, and entered on a region of low monotonous36 undulations, flattening37 out gradually into the vast wheat-fields about Bourges. But who would wish any other setting for that memorable silhouette38, throned, from whichever point of the compass one approaches it, in such proud isolation39 above the plain? One forgets70 even, in a distant view of Bourges, that nature has helped, by an opportune40 rise of the ground, to lift the cathedral to its singular eminence41: the hill, and the town upon it, seem so merely the unremarked pedestal of the monument. It is not till one climbs the steep street leading up from the Place Saint Bonnet42 that one realises the peculiar43 topographical advantages of such a site; advantages which perhaps partly account for the overwhelming and not quite explicable effect of a first sight of the cathedral.
MOULINS: PLACE DE L’H?TEL-DE-VILLE AND THE JACQUEMART TOWER
Even now, on a second visit, with the great monuments of the Ile de France fresh in memory, we felt the same effect, and the same difficulty in running it down, in differentiating44 it from the richer, yet perhaps less deeply Gothic impression produced by the rival churches of the north. For, begin as one will by admitting, by insisting upon, the defects of Bourges—its irregular inharmonious fa?ade, its thin piers45, its mean outer aisles46—one yet ends in a state where criticism perforce yields to sensation, where one surrenders one’s self wholly to the spell of its spiritual suggestion. Certainly it would be hard to put a finger, either within or without, on the71 specific tangible47 cause of this feeling. Is it to be found in the extraordinary beauty of the five western portals, so crowded with noble and pathetic imagery and delicate ornamental48 detail? But the doors of Chartres surpass even these! Is it then, if one looks within, the rich blue and red of its dense49 ancient glass? But Chartres, again, has finer glass of that unmatched period. Is it the long clear sweep of the nave50 and aisles, uninterrupted by the cross-lines of transept or chancel-screen? But if one recalls the wonderful convolutions of the ambulatory of Canterbury, one has to confess that Gothic art—even in its conventionalised English form—has created curves of greater poetry and mystery, produced a more thrilling sense of shadowy consecrated51 distances. Perhaps the spell of Bourges resides in a fortunate accidental mingling52 of many of the qualities that predominate in this or that more perfect structure—in the mixing of the ingredients so that there rises from them, as one stands in one of the lofty inner aisles, with one’s face toward the choir53, that breath of mystical devotion which issues from the very heart of medi?val Christianity.
72 “With this sweetness,” wrote Saint Theresa, of the Prayer of Quiet, “the whole inner and outer man seems to be delighted, as though some delicious ointment54 were poured into the soul like an exquisite55 perfume ... as if we suddenly came to a place where it is exhaled56, not only from one, but from many things; and we know not what it is, or from which one of them it comes, but they all penetrate57 us”.... If Amiens, in its harmony of conception and vigour58 of execution, seems to embody59 the developing will-power of a people passionate60 in belief, and indomitable in the concrete expression of their creed61, here at Bourges one feels that other, less expressible side of the great ruling influence of the Middle Ages—the power that willed mighty62 monuments and built them, yet also, even in its moments of most brutal63 material ascendancy64, created the other houses, not built with hands, where the spirits of the saints might dwell.
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1 animated | |
adj.生气勃勃的,活跃的,愉快的 | |
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2 renaissance | |
n.复活,复兴,文艺复兴 | |
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3 elegance | |
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
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4 morose | |
adj.脾气坏的,不高兴的 | |
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5 compensating | |
补偿,补助,修正 | |
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6 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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7 sepulchrally | |
坟墓的; 丧葬的; 阴森森的; 阴沉的 | |
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8 inspection | |
n.检查,审查,检阅 | |
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9 inadequate | |
adj.(for,to)不充足的,不适当的 | |
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10 pangs | |
突然的剧痛( pang的名词复数 ); 悲痛 | |
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11 pang | |
n.剧痛,悲痛,苦闷 | |
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12 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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13 parenthesis | |
n.圆括号,插入语,插曲,间歇,停歇 | |
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14 memorable | |
adj.值得回忆的,难忘的,特别的,显著的 | |
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15 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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16 inflicted | |
把…强加给,使承受,遭受( inflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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17 primitives | |
原始人(primitive的复数形式) | |
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18 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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19 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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20 undoubtedly | |
adv.确实地,无疑地 | |
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21 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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22 minor | |
adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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23 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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24 amiable | |
adj.和蔼可亲的,友善的,亲切的 | |
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25 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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26 gateways | |
n.网关( gateway的名词复数 );门径;方法;大门口 | |
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27 tapestry | |
n.挂毯,丰富多采的画面 | |
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28 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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29 exuberant | |
adj.充满活力的;(植物)繁茂的 | |
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30 gallant | |
adj.英勇的,豪侠的;(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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31 exterior | |
adj.外部的,外在的;表面的 | |
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32 commemorating | |
v.纪念,庆祝( commemorate的现在分词 ) | |
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33 legendary | |
adj.传奇(中)的,闻名遐迩的;n.传奇(文学) | |
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34 allied | |
adj.协约国的;同盟国的 | |
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35 diversified | |
adj.多样化的,多种经营的v.使多样化,多样化( diversify的过去式和过去分词 );进入新的商业领域 | |
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36 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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37 flattening | |
n. 修平 动词flatten的现在分词 | |
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38 silhouette | |
n.黑色半身侧面影,影子,轮廓;v.描绘成侧面影,照出影子来,仅仅显出轮廓 | |
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39 isolation | |
n.隔离,孤立,分解,分离 | |
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40 opportune | |
adj.合适的,适当的 | |
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41 eminence | |
n.卓越,显赫;高地,高处;名家 | |
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42 bonnet | |
n.无边女帽;童帽 | |
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43 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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44 differentiating | |
[计] 微分的 | |
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45 piers | |
n.水上平台( pier的名词复数 );(常设有娱乐场所的)突堤;柱子;墙墩 | |
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46 aisles | |
n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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47 tangible | |
adj.有形的,可触摸的,确凿的,实际的 | |
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48 ornamental | |
adj.装饰的;作装饰用的;n.装饰品;观赏植物 | |
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49 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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50 nave | |
n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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51 consecrated | |
adj.神圣的,被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣,给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 );奉献 | |
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52 mingling | |
adj.混合的 | |
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53 choir | |
n.唱诗班,唱诗班的席位,合唱团,舞蹈团;v.合唱 | |
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54 ointment | |
n.药膏,油膏,软膏 | |
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55 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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56 exhaled | |
v.呼出,发散出( exhale的过去式和过去分词 );吐出(肺中的空气、烟等),呼气 | |
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57 penetrate | |
v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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58 vigour | |
(=vigor)n.智力,体力,精力 | |
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59 embody | |
vt.具体表达,使具体化;包含,收录 | |
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60 passionate | |
adj.热情的,热烈的,激昂的,易动情的,易怒的,性情暴躁的 | |
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61 creed | |
n.信条;信念,纲领 | |
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62 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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63 brutal | |
adj.残忍的,野蛮的,不讲理的 | |
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64 ascendancy | |
n.统治权,支配力量 | |
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