This book, that exudes1 sincerity2, just as a pine tree drops its rosin, serves a double purpose. It reveals a curious personality that might have stepped straight from the pages of Purchas or of Hakluyt, and at the same time, all unknown to the writer, helps to dispel3 some of the mist of ignorance and prejudice that for so long has hung over the lives and actions of the Spanish Conquerors4.
Judged by an alien Tribunal, brought before the bar of an opinion adverse5 to them by religion, race and interest, they have been vilified6 before the world with scarce a word raised in their defence. To-day their exploits are judged upon their merits. The ancient jealousy7, that gave Gondomar the right to brand even the great Sir Walter Raleigh{vi} with the stigma8 of “Pirata,” has long died down. We know that our own withers9 are not quite unerring. Thus, by degrees and in the hard school of experience, we are learning not to condemn10 men who acted by the standards of their age by our own code. Take both codes away, and drop me an impartial11 judge down from the moon, he might not find much real difference between the Spaniards of the age of Charles V and ourselves, the sons of progress and of light. Still, there are fellows of the baser sort, your piffling traveller with his bad jokes, contempt of anything not forged upon his Peckham anvil12, or registered so many degrees north, east or west from the meridian13 of Balham, with clichés from old books as if the course of time changed nothing, and no fresh matter ever came to light, to tell us all the Spanish conquerors were cruel rogues14 and thieves. He lets us know that in their thirst for gold and zeal15 for their damned Papism, they exterminated16 all the Indians, leaving not one alive. He is read, commented on and reviewed by men as ignorant and prejudiced as he himself, and so the ball rolls on, ever increasing like a mass of snow set trundling down a slope. To read or listen to such antiquated17 bombast18 one{vii} would think that kindly19 well-disposed and Christian20 men meticulous21 in all their dealings with the Indians, such as were Vasco Nu?ez de Balboa and Alvar Nu?ez Cabeza de Vaca, had never lived and striven to do good. Of the great Las Casas and the innumerable Jesuits and Franciscans, who gave their lives so freely for the conversion22 of the Indians, it is unnecessary to speak.
This little book comes as an antidote23 to all this poison gas.
Written in the language that men speak round the camp fire, with rifles ready to the hand, with ears attuned24 to catch the slightest rustle25 in the grass and eyes always a-watch upon the horses where they feed close at hand, hobbled or picketed26, it lets fresh air in on the question. The writer tells us, bluntly and in the way a sailor writes his log book, quite without comment, but with circumstance, that he slept in an Ancient Inca Temple on some pass or other of an altitude of 17,000 feet and with a temperature of 8° below. He lifts unwittingly the corner of a page that Protestant historians have always kept dog’s-eared. He jots27 down at haphazard28 that he bought a llama, some frozen potatoes, or the carcass of a sheep, from the{viii} owner of the hut, who was an Indian. Then further on he comes upon a band of Indians driving llamas; stops in another Indian hut, and by degrees it dawns upon us that his whole journey from the time he left La Paz was amongst Indians. One million Indians, as he tells us, are settled in the republic on the same lands that their forefathers29 owned, under their Inca princes when the Pizarro brothers burst on their Arcady. Besides this million, that apparently30 has fluctuated little since the conquest, still in the forests of the Tipuani and the Beni, that Beni of whose wonders I had heard so much from my friend, Colonel Don Pedro Suarez, there still roam, free, naked and unashamed, for shame was brought into the world under a dispensation they had no share in, three hundred thousand of these autochthones.
How the author came to set out on the strange, romantic quest, to reach a lone31 community of Indians, on the Tipuani, living far from the world, in curious huts much as I have seen in remote capillas in Paraguay, and well depicted32 by the author in a not ineffective, neo-Japanese style of art, is most curious. Established as he was with a large racing33 stable, somewhere in Chile, an occu{ix}pation as one would suppose as little likely as any in the world to furnish an explorer, for diplomats34 and race-horse trainers are perhaps the men above all others wrapped in conservatism and bound in prejudice.
Still, somewhere in his being he must have had the true Elizabethan spirit that makes a man sell his own land to visit that of other people, for without preface he informs us that in July 1913 he was engaged by the Challana and Tongo Rubber Company to go and find out if the Indians on the Challana river would tap rubber for them. The proposition seemed a tough one, as he might have said himself. The Indians, knowing that to allow white people to settle in their territory must be the ruin of their race, had set strict guards upon the passes of the river.
Twice or three times they had defeated expeditions sent against them, and were now all well armed, having supplied themselves through the good offices of a Bolivian officer, one Captain Villarde, who had originally been sent against them from La Paz. Captain Villarde, and one Sanchez, had thrown their lot in with the Indians and lived half in the capacity of traders, half as military{x} advisers35, in Paroma, the mysterious Indian capital, a town that no one single white man had ever seen except themselves.
Like a good trainer, the first thing was to see about his weight. As he weighed two hundred and sixty-five pounds (avoirdupois) one might be pardoned in supposing that as De Quincey said about the Poet Coleridge, he was a little stout36 for active virtue37. Nothing more false. Had he weighed twice as much, it would have been the same.
Three weeks of hot baths reduced his weight by thirty pounds, and he was ready for the road. Every one having advised him against going to Paroma, telling him as they told Columbus, and have told everybody since the beginning of the world who wanted to go anywhere, that the journey was impossible, he thought of what he ought to have hit upon at once, seeing he was a race-horse trainer. Near to Sorata, a little town close to Lake Titicaca, there dwelt “un matrimonio” as they would call it in Bolivia, of the name of Gunther. Next door there lived a lady, one Se?ora Villavicencia, sister to the Villardes, who had become, either by adoption38 or by grace, a personage amongst the{xi} Indians. The writer, most likely as the old Scottish story goes, either by sophistry39 or knowledge of the gospel, got the soft side of her. How many times he must have slipped the “Tapujo” over the eyes of a wild mule40, an operation that, experto crede, has its difficulties, and yet gives one experience with other animals. This lady, having marked, heard and inwardly digested all that the writer had to say, was pleased to send a letter, by an Indian runner, to her brother at Paroma, thus opening an Eden, making this book possible, and incidentally removing from her sex the slur41 that Eve cast on it when she was instrumental in setting up the board in that fair garden by the Tigris, with “To let” inscribed42 upon it. Riding a stout mule, and with his old chestnut43 hurdle44 racer to serve as bell mare45, and well supplied with rum and whisky, sterilized46 milk, two or three horn lanterns, Liebig’s extract, a nail extractor, and other trifles useful on the road, though as a liberal minded man he does not dogmatize upon a traveller’s needs, for in a qualifying clause he says, “anything else you think you need,” the writer set out towards his Eden in the wilderness47.
Much did he see and much set down, as when he{xii} stayed with the headman of Tiquiripaga, himself an Aymara. This worthy48, called Manuel, was wedlocked to two wives, one of them not bad-looking, who took good care of the writer during his sojourn49 in the place.
Little by little, passing along the edge of precipices50; swung over torrents51 on a rope, and witnessing the wondrous52 change of fauna53, flora54, sky and temperature, that riders from the high Andes see slip beside them in a day’s ride toward the Tropics, the writer gradually advanced towards the unknown.
He saw (he tells us so) the Alpine55 flora slowly give way to palms and tree-ferns, begonias, white and purple creepers, orchids56 and parasites58 spring from the distorted trunks of Ceibas and of Bongos, and butterflies, light and dark blue, purple and yellow, flying about in flocks. Parrots darted59 high above his head, chattering60 and shrieking61, and flights of green and red macaws glided62 like hawks63 about the clearings of the woods. All this he saw and must have smelt64 the dank and spicy65 odour rising from the masses of decaying vegetation, seen the snakes hanging from the trees, and heard the monkeys howling, sights, sounds and odours{xiii} that always make me feel as if I was returning home during such kind of rides. At last he reached the Tipuani and camped upon its banks, being well received by one Noboa, an ex-slave, and startled, though he should not have been so, by the apparition66 of a tall sun-burned man, stricken with fever, who introduced himself by the name of Mackenzie, and formed of course a unit of the all conquering legions that Scotland sends out to subdue67 the world. Long did he wait in Tipuani for news from the mysterious Indian capital, for, though he was only a few days’ journey from it, the frontiers were so strictly68 guarded that a wayfaring69 man, even although endowed with average intelligence, could just as easily expect to enter heaven without a passport. So in Tipuani he waited, shooting occasionally a man-eating jaguar70, bathing, drinking new rum, and no doubt mightily71 refreshed by the conversation of Mackenzie, the young Spaniard, Perez, who had left the military school in Madrid on a “paseo” to the Tipuani and had been fever stayed for years, and the companionship of other waifs and strays, whose talk is always interesting, as it runs wholly on themselves and things that they have seen, and in such places{xiv} as Tipuani these kind of men are sure to congregate72. When the long wished for order to proceed arrived at last, in three days’ march he reached Paroma, a village set, like some cities of the Scriptures73, high upon a hill. A river ran through it and huts were scattered74 here and there, midst clumps75 of palm trees. The view extended over miles. Right in the middle stood the Court House, a “long high shed of poles and palm leaves,” and not far off the church, neat, swept and garnished76, although there was no priest, nor had been for a long while. Captain Villarde received the writer well, though with anxiety, for it appeared the Indians thought he was a spy.
Early next morning the tryst77 was set within the Court House, and on raised seats sat Captain Villarde, the two Fernandez, Portugol, and “old man Jones,” who had lived forty years amongst the Indians, and forgotten English. Three hundred Indians thronged78 the Court House, and the situation was so critical that Villarde advised the author to get up and speak to them. He did so for two stricken hours in the most choice Castilian that he had at his command. The result was magical, for, curious to say, the{xv} speech convinced his hearers, a thing that possibly has never happened in a Christian parliament.
All was plain sailing and, his business finished in Paroma, nothing remained for him but to get upon his mule and strike the homeward trail.
Well, well, he had a glorious journey, and one that in the days when joints79 grow stiff and mules80 impossible to mount will still console him for all he underwent.
I, having read the book, am glad of his success; but hope when he is asked about Paroma that he will have forgotten both its longitude81 and latitude82, and treat it as a dream. Long may it flourish, just as an unknown orchid57 flourishes in Colombian everglades, or a fine undiscovered jewel in a mine, quite uncontaminated by the thing that we call progress, and pride ourselves upon, as justly as a man might pride himself upon an ulcer83 in his leg, a fine harelip, or any other malformation.
I hope the chief will not forget, when the false dawn streaks84 all the sky with red, to rise up from sleep, and taking down a calabash fill it with chicha, then, winding85 his poncho86 round his neck, will make his way through the wet grass, leaving a trail, with his short inturned feet as of a plantigrade,{xvi} in the white dew. Then in the middle of the square, whilst the God of his forefathers is born again into the world, that he will pour the chicha on the grass, praying, as the Incas prayed in that great temple that they raised in Cuzco, to the sun.
Let him pray on; for prayer is to the soul what most divine tobacco is to the senses, deadening and comforting. For after all it is but giving up oneself unto oneself, and waiting dumbly for something that may come from nothing, or again may never come; but as he prays the sun will rise for all that, just as it rose in Atahualpa’s time, and will continue rising.
R. B. CUNNINGHAME GRAHAM.
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1
exudes
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| v.缓慢流出，渗出，分泌出( exude的第三人称单数 )；流露出对（某物）的神态或感情 | |
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sincerity
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| n.真诚，诚意；真实 | |
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dispel
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| vt.驱走，驱散，消除 | |
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conquerors
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| 征服者，占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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adverse
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| adj.不利的；有害的；敌对的，不友好的 | |
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vilified
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| v.中伤，诽谤( vilify的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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jealousy
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| n.妒忌，嫉妒，猜忌 | |
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stigma
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| n.耻辱，污名；(花的)柱头 | |
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withers
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| 马肩隆 | |
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condemn
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| vt.谴责，指责；宣判(罪犯)，判刑 | |
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impartial
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| adj.(in,to)公正的，无偏见的 | |
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anvil
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| n.铁钻 | |
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meridian
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| adj.子午线的；全盛期的 | |
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rogues
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| n.流氓( rogue的名词复数 )；无赖；调皮捣蛋的人；离群的野兽 | |
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zeal
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| n.热心，热情，热忱 | |
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exterminated
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| v.消灭，根绝( exterminate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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antiquated
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| adj.陈旧的，过时的 | |
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bombast
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| n.高调，夸大之辞 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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meticulous
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| adj.极其仔细的，一丝不苟的 | |
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conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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antidote
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| n.解毒药，解毒剂 | |
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attuned
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| v.使协调( attune的过去式和过去分词 )；调音 | |
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rustle
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| v.沙沙作响；偷盗(牛、马等)；n.沙沙声声 | |
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picketed
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| 用尖桩围住（picket的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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jots
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| v.匆忙记下( jot的第三人称单数 )；草草记下，匆匆记下 | |
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haphazard
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| adj.无计划的，随意的，杂乱无章的 | |
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forefathers
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| n.祖先，先人；祖先，祖宗( forefather的名词复数 )；列祖列宗；前人 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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depicted
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| 描绘，描画( depict的过去式和过去分词 )； 描述 | |
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racing
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| n.竞赛，赛马；adj.竞赛用的，赛马用的 | |
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diplomats
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| n.外交官( diplomat的名词复数 )；有手腕的人，善于交际的人 | |
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advisers
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| 顾问，劝告者( adviser的名词复数 )； （指导大学新生学科问题等的）指导教授 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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adoption
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| n.采用，采纳，通过；收养 | |
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sophistry
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| n.诡辩 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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41
slur
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| v.含糊地说；诋毁；连唱；n.诋毁；含糊的发音 | |
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42
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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chestnut
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| n.栗树，栗子 | |
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hurdle
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| n.跳栏，栏架；障碍，困难；vi.进行跨栏赛 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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46
sterilized
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| v.消毒( sterilize的过去式和过去分词 )；使无菌；使失去生育能力；使绝育 | |
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47
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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48
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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49
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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50
precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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51
torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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52
wondrous
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| adj.令人惊奇的，奇妙的；adv.惊人地；异乎寻常地；令人惊叹地 | |
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53
fauna
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| n.(一个地区或时代的)所有动物，动物区系 | |
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54
flora
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| n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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55
alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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56
orchids
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| n.兰花( orchid的名词复数 ) | |
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orchid
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| n.兰花，淡紫色 | |
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58
parasites
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| 寄生物( parasite的名词复数 )； 靠他人为生的人； 诸虫 | |
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59
darted
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的过去式和过去分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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60
chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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61
shrieking
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| v.尖叫( shriek的现在分词 ) | |
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62
glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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hawks
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| 鹰( hawk的名词复数 )； 鹰派人物，主战派人物 | |
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64
smelt
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| v.熔解，熔炼；n.银白鱼，胡瓜鱼 | |
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spicy
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| adj.加香料的；辛辣的，有风味的 | |
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apparition
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| n.幽灵，神奇的现象 | |
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subdue
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| vt.制服，使顺从，征服；抑制，克制 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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wayfaring
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| adj.旅行的n.徒步旅行 | |
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jaguar
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| n.美洲虎 | |
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71
mightily
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| ad.强烈地；非常地 | |
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congregate
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| v.(使)集合，聚集 | |
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scriptures
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| 经文，圣典( scripture的名词复数 )； 经典 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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garnished
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| v.给（上餐桌的食物）加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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tryst
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| n.约会；v.与…幽会 | |
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78
thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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79
joints
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| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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81
longitude
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| n.经线，经度 | |
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82
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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83
ulcer
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| n.溃疡，腐坏物 | |
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84
streaks
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| n.（与周围有所不同的）条纹( streak的名词复数 )；（通常指不好的）特征（倾向）；（不断经历成功或失败的）一段时期v.快速移动( streak的第三人称单数 )；使布满条纹 | |
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85
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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poncho
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| n.斗篷，雨衣 | |
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