BRIG "OLGA," AT SEA, 200 MILES FROM KAMCHATKA. August 17, 1865.
Our voyage is at last drawing to a close, and after seven long weeks of cold, rainy, rough weather our eyes are soon to be gladdened again by the sight of land, and never was it more welcome to weary mariner2 than it will be to us. Even as I write, the sound of scraping and scrubbing is heard on deck, and proclaims our nearness to land. They are dressing3 the vessel4 to go once more into society. We were only 255 miles from the Kamchatkan seaport5 of Petropavlovsk (pet-ro-pav'-lovsk) last night, and if this favourable6 breeze holds we expect to reach there to-morrow noon. It has fallen almost to a dead calm, however, this morning, so that we may be delayed until Saturday.
AT SEA, OFF THE COAST OF KAMCHATKA. Friday, August 18, 1865.
We have a fine breeze this morning; and the brig, under every stitch of canvas that will draw, is staggering through the seas enveloped7 in a dense8 fog, through which even her topgallant sails show mistily9. Should the wind continue and the fog be dissipated we may hope to see land tonight.
11 A.M.
I have just come down from the topgallant yard, where for the last three hours I have been clinging uncomfortably to the backstays, watching for land, and swinging back and forth10 through the fog in the arc of a great circle as the vessel rolled lazily to the seas. We cannot discern any object at a distance of three ships' lengths, although the sky is evidently cloudless. Great numbers of gulls11, boobies, puffin, fish-hawks, and solan-geese surround the ship, and the water is full of drifting medusae.
NOON.
Half an hour ago the fog began to lift, and at 11.40 the captain, who had been sweeping12 the horizon with a glass, shouted cheerily, "Land ho! Land ho! Hurrah13!" and the cry was echoed simultaneously14 from stem to stern, and from the galley15 to the topgallant yard. Bush, Mahood, and the Major started at a run for the forecastle; the little humpbacked steward16 rushed frantically17 out of the galley with his hands all dough18, and climbed up on the bulwarks19; the sailors ran into the rigging, and only the man at the wheel retained his self-possession. Away ahead, drawn20 in faint luminous21 outlines above the horizon, appeared two high conical peaks, so distant that nothing but the white snow in their deep ravines could be seen, and so faint that they could hardly be distinguished22 from the blue sky beyond. They were the mountains of Villuchinski (vil-loo'-chin-ski) and Avacha (ah-vah'-chah), on the Kamchatkan coast, fully23 a hundred miles away. The Major looked at them through a glass long and eagerly, and then waving his hand proudly toward them, turned to us, and said with a burst of patriotic24 enthusiasm, "You see before you my country—the great Russian Empire!" and then as the fog drifted down again upon the ship, he dropped suddenly from his declamatory style, and with a look of disgust exclaimed, "Chort znaiet shto etta takoi [the Devil only knows what it means]—it is a curious thing! fog, fog, nothing but fog!"
In five minutes the last vestige25 of "the great Russian Empire" had disappeared, and we went below to dinner in a state of joyful26 excitement, which can never be imagined by one who has not been forty-six days at sea in the North Pacific.
4 P.M.
We have just been favoured with another view of the land. Half an hour ago I could see from the topgallant yard, where I was posted, that the fog was beginning to break away, and in a moment it rose slowly like a huge grey curtain, unveiling the sea and the deep-blue sky, letting in a flood of rosy27 light from the sinking sun, and revealing a picture of wonderful beauty. Before us, stretching for a hundred and fifty miles to the north and south, lay the grand coast-line of Kamchatka, rising abruptly28 in great purple promontories29 out of the blue sparkling sea, flecked here with white clouds and shreds30 of fleecy mist, deepening in places into a soft quivering blue, and sweeping backward and upward into the pure white snow of the higher peaks. Two active volcanoes, 10,000 and 16,000 feet in height, rose above the confused jagged ranges of the lower mountains, piercing the blue sky with sharp white triangles of eternal snow, and drawing the purple shadows of evening around their feet. The high bold coast did not appear, in that clear atmosphere, to be fifteen miles away, and it seemed to have risen suddenly like a beautiful mirage31 out of the sea. In less than five minutes the grey curtain of mist dropped slowly down again over the magnificent picture, and it faded gradually from sight, leaving us almost in doubt whether it had been a reality, or only a bright deceptive32 vision. We are enveloped now, as we have been nearly all day, in a thick clammy fog.
HARBOUR OP PETROPAVLOVSK, KAMCHATKA. August 19, 1865.
At dark last night we were distant, as we supposed, about fifteen miles from Cape33 Povorotnoi (po-vo-rote'-noi) and as the fog had closed in again denser34 than ever, the captain dared not venture any nearer. The ship was accordingly put about, and we stood off and on all night, waiting for sunrise and a clear atmosphere, to enable us to approach the coast in safety. At five o'clock I was on deck. The fog was colder and denser than ever, and out of it rolled the white-capped waves raised by a fresh south-easterly breeze. Shortly before six o'clock it began to grow light, the brig was headed for the land, and under foresail, jib, and topsails, began to forge steadily35 through the water. The captain, glass in hand, anxiously paced the quarterdeck, ever and anon reconnoitring the horizon, and casting a glance up to windward to see if there were any prospect36 of better weather. Several times he was upon the point of putting the ship about, fearing to run on a lee shore in that impenetrable mist; but it finally lightened up, the fog disappeared, and the horizon line came out clear and distinct. To our utter astonishment37, not a foot of land could be seen in any direction! The long range of blue mountains which had seemed the previous night to be within an hour's sail—the lofty snowy peaks—the deep gorges38 and the bold headlands, had all
"—melted into thin air, Leaving not a rack behind."
There was nothing to indicate the existence of land within a thousand miles, save the number and variety of the birds that wheeled curiously39 around our wake, or flew away with a spattering noise from under our bows. Many were the theories which were suggested to account for the sudden disappearance40 of the high bold land. The captain attempted to explain it by the supposition that a strong current, sweeping off shore, had during the night carried us away to the south-east. Bush accused the mate of being asleep on his watch, and letting the ship run over the land, while the mate declared solemnly that he did not believe that there had been any land there at all; that it was only a mirage. The Major said it was "pagánni" (abominable) and "a curious thing," but did not volunteer any solution of the problem. So there we were.
We had a fine leading wind from the south-east, and were now going through the water at the rate of seven knots. Eight o'clock, nine o'clock, ten o'clock, and still no appearance of land, although we had made since daylight more than thirty miles. At eleven o'clock, however, the horizon gradually darkened, and all at once a bold headland, terminating in a precipitous cliff, loomed41 up out of a thin mist at a distance of only four miles. All was at once excitement. The topgallant sails were clewed up to reduce the vessel's speed, and her course was changed so that we swept round in a curve broadside to the coast, about three miles distant. The mountain peaks, by which we might have ascertained43 our position, were hidden by the clouds and fog, and it was no easy matter to ascertain42 exactly where we were.
Away to the left, dimly defined in the mist, were two or three more high blue headlands, but what they were, and where the harbour of Petropavlovsk might be, were questions that no one could answer. The captain brought his charts, compass, and drawing instruments on deck, laid them on the cabin skylight, and began taking the bearings of the different headlands, while we eagerly scanned the shore with glasses, and gave free expressions to our several opinions as to our situation. The Russian chart which the captain had of the coast was fortunately a good one, and he soon determined44 our position, and the names of the headlands first seen. We were just north of Cape Povorotnoi, about nine miles south of the entrance of Avacha Bay. The yards were now squared, and we went off on the new tack45 before a steady breeze from the south-east. In less than an hour we sighted the high isolated46 rocks known as the "Three Brothers," passed a rocky precipitous island, surrounded by clouds of shrieking47 gulls and parrot-billed ducks, and by two o'clock were off "the heads" of Avacha Bay, on which is situated48 the village of Petropavlovsk. The scenery at the entrance more than equalled our highest anticipations49. Green grassy50 valleys stretched away from openings in the rocky coast until they were lost in the distant mountains; the rounded bluffs51 were covered with clumps53 of yellow birch and thickets54 of dark-green chaparral; patches of flowers could be seen on the warm sheltered slopes of the hills; and as we passed close under the lighthouse bluff52, Bush shouted joyously55, "Hurrah, there's clover!" "Clover!" exclaimed the captain contemptuously, "there ain't any clover in the Ar'tic Regions!" "How do you know, you've never been there," retorted Bush caustically56; "it looks like clover, and"—looking through a glass—"it is clover"; and his face lighted up as if the discovery of clover had relieved his mind of a great deal of anxiety as to the severity of the Kamchatkan climate. It was a sort of vegetable exponent57 of temperature, and out of a little patch of clover, Bush's imagination developed, in a style undreamt of by Darwin, the whole luxuriant flora58 of the temperate59 zone.
The very name of Kamchatka had always been associated in our minds with everything barren and inhospitable, and we did not entertain for a moment the thought that such a country could afford beautiful scenery and luxuriant vegetation. In fact, with us all it was a mooted60 question whether anything more than mosses61, lichens62, and perhaps a little grass maintained the unequal struggle for existence in that frozen clime. It may be imagined with what delight and surprise we looked upon green hills covered with trees and verdant63 thickets; upon valleys white with clover and diversified64 with little groves65 of silver-barked birch, and even the rocks nodding with wild roses and columbine, which had taken root in their clefts66 as if nature strove to hide with a garment of flowers the evidences of past convulsions.
Just before three o'clock we came in sight of the village of Petropavlovsk—a little cluster of red-roofed and bark-thatched log houses; a Greek church of curious architecture, with a green dome67; a strip of beach, a half-ruined wharf68, two whale-boats, and the dismantled69 wreck70 of a half-sunken vessel. High green hills swept in a great semicircle of foliage71 around the little village, and almost shut in the quiet pond-like harbour—an inlet of Avacha Bay—on which it was situated. Under foresail and maintopsail we glided72 silently under the shadow of the encircling hills into this landlocked mill-pond, and within a stone's throw of the nearest house the sails were suddenly clewed up, and with a quivering of the ship and a rattle73 of chain cable our anchor dropped into the soil of Asia.
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1
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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2
mariner
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| n.水手号不载人航天探测器，海员，航海者 | |
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3
dressing
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| n.(食物)调料；包扎伤口的用品，敷料 | |
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4
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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5
seaport
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| n.海港，港口，港市 | |
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6
favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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7
enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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8
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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9
mistily
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| adv.有雾地，朦胧地，不清楚地 | |
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10
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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11
gulls
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| n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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12
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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13
hurrah
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| int.好哇，万岁，乌拉 | |
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14
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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15
galley
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| n.（飞机或船上的）厨房单层甲板大帆船；军舰舰长用的大划艇； | |
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16
steward
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| n.乘务员，服务员；看管人；膳食管理员 | |
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17
frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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18
dough
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| n.生面团；钱，现款 | |
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19
bulwarks
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| n.堡垒( bulwark的名词复数 )；保障；支柱；舷墙 | |
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20
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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21
luminous
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| adj.发光的，发亮的；光明的；明白易懂的；有启发的 | |
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22
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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23
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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24
patriotic
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| adj.爱国的，有爱国心的 | |
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25
vestige
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| n.痕迹，遗迹，残余 | |
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26
joyful
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| adj.欢乐的，令人欢欣的 | |
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27
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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28
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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29
promontories
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| n.岬，隆起，海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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30
shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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31
mirage
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| n.海市蜃楼，幻景 | |
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32
deceptive
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| adj.骗人的，造成假象的，靠不住的 | |
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33
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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34
denser
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| adj. 不易看透的, 密集的, 浓厚的, 愚钝的 | |
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35
steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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36
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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37
astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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38
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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39
curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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40
disappearance
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| n.消失，消散，失踪 | |
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41
loomed
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| v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的过去式和过去分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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42
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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43
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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44
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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45
tack
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| n.大头钉；假缝，粗缝 | |
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46
isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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47
shrieking
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| v.尖叫( shriek的现在分词 ) | |
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48
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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49
anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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50
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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51
bluffs
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| 恐吓( bluff的名词复数 )； 悬崖； 峭壁 | |
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52
bluff
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| v.虚张声势，用假象骗人；n.虚张声势，欺骗 | |
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53
clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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54
thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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55
joyously
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| ad.快乐地, 高兴地 | |
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56
caustically
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| adv.刻薄地；挖苦地；尖刻地；讥刺地 | |
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57
exponent
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| n.倡导者，拥护者；代表人物；指数，幂 | |
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58
flora
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| n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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59
temperate
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| adj.温和的，温带的，自我克制的，不过分的 | |
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60
mooted
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| adj.未决定的，有争议的，有疑问的v.提出…供讨论( moot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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61
mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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62
lichens
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| n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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63
verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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64
diversified
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| adj.多样化的，多种经营的v.使多样化，多样化( diversify的过去式和过去分词 )；进入新的商业领域 | |
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65
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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66
clefts
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| n.裂缝( cleft的名词复数 )；裂口；cleave的过去式和过去分词；进退维谷 | |
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67
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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68
wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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69
dismantled
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| 拆开( dismantle的过去式和过去分词 )； 拆卸； 废除； 取消 | |
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70
wreck
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| n.失事，遇难；沉船；vt.(船等)失事，遇难 | |
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71
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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72
glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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73
rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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