So far as this narrative5 of the experiences of my wife and myself and our family party is concerned, I would estimate that stage of the process which was reached at Naples as of equal or greater importance than the Ellis Island process proper.
Before we left our native land to begin the research in Italy, we were under the impression that emigration was merely a matter of so many hundreds of thousands of people traveling each season from their homes in Europe to the nearest ports, and taking third-class passage to New York, where they were landed at Ellis Island and examined. That is the American idea of it,—that and no more! That anything befell them, other than happens to traveling families in any place, before they reached Ellis Island, never occurred to us. The process of birth certificates, passports, declarations, and grouping by the numbers on the ship’s manifest was all unexpected; and here at Naples was yet more 139formality, and, looking back over the whole trip, the Naples stage seems really more interesting and surely as important as the Ellis Island one.
The morning (30th of September) that we arrived on the Reina Margherita from Messina, and debarked with our baggage at nine o’clock on the quay7 before the Capitaneria del Porto, with no shelter from the sun already beginning to send down rays of broiling8 heat and blinding whiteness, we were rallied into one crowd by agents of the North German Lloyd broker9, Vincenzo di Luca fu Giacomo, who stood at the foot of the gangplank crying, “Germanese! Germanese!” and into another by agents of the La Veloce Line broker, who stood on the other side and called, “Veloce! Veloce!”
Across the quay, directly opposite where the Reina Margherita had docked, lay the beautiful long gray Citta di Napoli, ready to sail that day, and from the other side of the Capitaneria we could see emigrants10 who were going in her, pouring out of the examination-rooms in hundreds, and carrying their baggage aboard. All the third-class passengers among us who were going by the Veloce Line were quickly herded11 together, and rushed away and put through the process. As our steamer did not sail yet for two days, we were left to wait while all the Veloce baggage was passed through the custom-house, and then that of all the first class from the Reina Margherita, as there is a city customs duty in Naples in addition to the national revenue, and baggage is looked at very carefully for comestibles, or anything that can be eaten or converted into food-stuffs.
We had had no breakfast; we had had exceedingly little sleep; the air outside the bay had been chilling; 140and now we were left huddled13 in the dust under that pouring sun till it was somebody’s pleasure to remove us. A high iron fence topped with spear pickets14 prevented our getting out, and if we tried to go through the doorway15 into the Capitaneria there were policemen to push us back. Despite the strict rules of the Capitaneria concerning any Neapolitans being allowed in among third-class passengers not yet admitted to the port, or among those passed for embarkation, peddlers, water-sellers, beggars and mendicant16 friars began to filter through the Capitaneria and over the fence, until, even if we were oppressed with weariness, heat, dust and hunger, we at least had diversion, and were able to buy warm water with a dash of licorice in it. One buxom17 young woman who came in with an ollah and served all customers out of the same glass was of a fine cheery type, and when some of the people about us complained and asked whether this was what they were to expect in the way of treatment, she would laugh and say:
“Oh, do not trouble yourself because you are weak with weariness and have no place to sit down but the dust in the hot sun. This is heavenly to what you will find later on.”
I heard her tell Camela and Concetta this, and the effect was anything but cheering on them. Antonio tried to comfort them, but he was almost at his wits’ end, answering questions from all the members of our party as to when they were going to get something to eat, whether we were to go at once on the steamer, whether or not they looked “sick in the eyes,” and might they open one of the trunks to get a bottle of wine, and so on indefinitely.
The begging friars were nearly all Franciscans, and 141moved about the various enclosures among the thousands of emigrants, telling them that they could best ward18 off the fearful dangers of the voyage and in the new, wild land, America, by purchasing prayer-cards. They got a great deal of money in this way.
It was with keen disappointment that I saw a party of three persons, an old woman, her daughter and the daughter’s small boy, who were going by the Citta di Napoli, brought off the Reina Margherita and hurried away with the other Veloce people. I had observed their diseased eyes the evening before, and had warned all of our party to keep away from them; but the young woman had made friends with one of our neighbors, to whom she confided19 the fact that this was her third trip to Naples with her mother and her boy. She had tried twice before to go to America, but all had been turned down on account of trachoma, and sent back to Messina, where they lived. Now, by arranging to perform that indefinite process I heard so much about, “Pay some money to some people,” she fully12 expected to get through at Naples and to be landed in New York. I had planned to check up every step of her process and see if she really did get through with the old woman and the child; but now she was hustled20 away, and we were left standing21 helpless. I had the name she gave to our neighbor, and the address in Messina, but either the neighbor was mistaken or the name fictitious22.
Soon after they had gone, an old man with a swarm23 of young clerks appeared, and, calling the roll of the party, issued tickets which were good for daily rations6, while we were held in Naples, at the North German Lloyd’s contract restaurant, the Trattoria Retifilero in Via Lanzieri. It was a long, tedious process, involving 142much argument and searching for passports, tickets and papers.
When the old man was finished, he and his henchmen marshaled the crowd, divided it off into groups amid a wild uproar24, and each group of thirty or forty followed one of the young clerks into the Capitaneria, where they were led before the city customs officials, who ransacked25 their baggage for comestibles. A number of the members of our party were intensely agitated26 over the performance, it being their first experience, and little Nastasia, who had wine and cheese in his box, was wild with fright. He was afraid he would be arrested, or something would happen that would prevent his going.
A few times before, I had seen evidences of this fear among others of our party, and I soon realized that what makes the emigrant so meek27 in the face of outrageous28 brutalities, so open to the wiles29 of sharpers, so thoroughly disconcerted and bewildered in the face of an examination, is his terrible dread30 of not being allowed to enter America. He would as soon think of cutting off a hand as doing anything that “would get him into trouble.”
When the city customs officials were finished with us, we were passed through to the front of the Capitaneria, and to the left, where the steamship broker’s representatives were busy checking the heavy baggage. Almost the entire party was dependent on Antonio and me to worry the score of big trunks, boxes and bundles through, and, this spot being just as hot and dusty as the other side of the Capitaneria, the whole party was in a deplorable condition when at last we were ready to be led to our abiding-place for the two nights we would be in Naples.
143Once outside the iron fence bounding the Capitaneria, the group largely made up of our party straggled along under the weight of their baggage, following the young clerk who piloted us along the Marina, with its turmoil31 of commerce, and soon we turned into the Vico di via Porta. Threading our way through the narrow street, jammed with all the life of the lower classes, we came at last to the Albergo della Rosa, or Rose Hotel, in the Lanzieri.
It is one of the many houses whose great source of income is the housing of emigrants at fixed32 rates of from one to two lire per night. The first floor was occupied by shops; around the entrance were gathered carts loaded with all sorts of wares33 from vegetables to trumpery34 combs, mirrors, soaps, baggage-straps,—in fact, all of the things which the poor emigrant could be led to fancy he wanted for the voyage. The house did not look very inviting35, and as we hesitated a horde36 of runners from other houses pounced37 upon us and almost dragged us elsewhere. Some of our people would have gone if a respectable old gentleman passing by and hearing the commotion38 had not stopped and addressed us, saying, “Go to this hotel if the company sends you here, and do not take up with these thieves. Some of the places they recommend are of a most dangerous character. Emigrants are robbed there constantly.”
I had firmly decided39 that our party should stop at the Albergo della Rosa, and contrived40 to persuade the others in our group not to be influenced by the importunate41 Neapolitans.
The host—a short, unshaven, bibulous-looking person—appeared, and we were conducted to the second and third floors, and allowed to sort ourselves out into 144three large rooms, filled with single beds. All of the women and children were given a front room with light and air, and the men took the others.
Here occurred an evidence of that class feeling which exists from the beggar up in Italy. There is no democracy. By a very natural process, with no words or discussion, Nunzio Giunta, Antonio Squadrito, Nicola Curro and one or two others, who considered themselves members of a better class than our farmer-boys from Socosa, for instance, took the best room, leaving the third, which was dark and close, to the others, who accepted it without a murmur42. In this connection I would note an amusing thing: Antonio never carried his own baggage till he reached America, nor did he ever fail to protest when I shouldered mine. He was afraid we should lose caste in the eyes of the people we met.
It was not ten minutes after we were indoors, before every member of the party was stretched out and sound asleep, being simply exhausted43 by the strain under which we had been for two days.
It was nearly six o’clock when the host roused everybody to tell them that if they wished to take advantage of the one meal a day the steamship broker was paying for, they should be going to the trattoria.
It was a subdued44 party that arrayed itself, filed down the stairs, and went to its first substantial meal since noon of the day before. There was less talking done than there had been over anything since we started from Gualtieri.
At the restaurant we found some hundreds of emigrants coming and going, and others seated at the tables. For a half hour we waited until those eating made room enough for us, and then we gathered 145around one of the large tables arranged about the long room, and soon were served by unkempt waiters with soup made with tomatoes and paste, a stew45 of meat and vegetables, the meat being from portions of the goat not the most savory46, melons and wine. Poor little Ina was very hungry but very brave. She confessed, after we had all been cheered and stimulated47 by the meal, that she had been afraid she would “faint, and they would not let a fainty girl go to America.”
Nothing was of more interest to me than the rapid broadening of the mental scope of the children and young folks in our party. Pretty Concetta, in all her sixteen years, had never been away from home before. Some of the youths had never been outside the village community of Gualtieri. Little Ina showed how bright she is and how well she had understood all the wonders that had been told her, by refusing to be appalled48 by the tremendous size and unheard-of splendor49 of Naples, for such the town, shabby and tumbledown as it is in the parts they had visited, seemed to them. She took her new experiences as a matter of course.
We walked out into the city after supper, and Concetta was as nearly like a wild, frightened animal of the forest as anything of which I can think. As I knew the city well, I piloted them to the portions where there would be the most interesting sights in the sunset hours and the early evening. As we were crossing the Piazza50 Borsa, with its busy traffic and many speeding electric cars, she clung to Camela’s arm, and Camela clung to my wife. The passing horses and cars seemed to utterly51 bewilder them, and when we were little more than halfway52 across, Camela and Concetta broke into a wild run, and, despite my wife’s resistance, 146dragged her the remainder of the way to the sidewalk, the last spurt53 being directly in front of a Toretta train. When we were all safely assembled on the sidewalk, Giovanni Pulejo, himself trembling all over, turned to me and said:
“Oh, all this noise makes my head as big as my body. Let us go back to the house.”
In one of the little side streets Camela suddenly stopped with an exclamation54 of disgust, and pointed55 to some boys with a plate of macaroni. They were shoveling it into their mouths with their fingers in the fashion that is met with only in Naples.
After we had passed through the splendid business arcade56, the Galleria Umberto, had seen the Royal Palace and other wonders, we came suddenly to a little street which has a peculiar57 reputation in Naples. It is the Vicolo del Pallonetto. Many years ago, when both the Mafia and Camorra were flourishing institutions in Italy, some strange things happened in this street.
It is so steep that it is paved with stones set like stairs, and many are the dead who have been found there at dawn. Now the street is inhabited for the most part with honest people of the Neapolitan brand of that virtue58, and it has the distinction of having sent great numbers of street-piano Italians to America. “The dago with the monkey” was the pioneer of Italian emigration to the United States; then came the lemon-seller, who took to the banana and peanut business. Some people take it as a matter of course that bananas and peanuts have their home in Italy. An Italian fruit-vender whom I know tells me he has people ask him nearly every day whether he has any Italian bananas. The truth is that both bananas and peanuts are as rare in Italy as alligator59 pears in New York. Several house-owners in this street are retired60 hand-organ players who have made substantial fortunes in America in other years.
The Storied Vicolo del Pallonetto in Naples
147As we came through the street with our trailing, staring, interested party, scores of persons with relatives in America came out of the houses or called down from the balconies, desiring that we look up their friends in the States and take them messages. Lest some who read these lines may find in them fresh cause to raise the Mafia bugaboo, I will repeat an earlier assertion: while it is no use denying that once the Mafia was a large, well-organized and most murderous society, and that for a long period it built up a record of atrocious crimes, extortions coupled with murders, the stringent62 measures adopted in Italy have suppressed it so effectually that actual Mafia members are only a few middle-aged63 or old men, who keep their allegiance only for fear of their old comrades. No man dares raise his voice to-day and call himself “Mafite” except in America, and here the man who does it is a common criminal, trading on the terrors of the old bloody64 band.
This country was greatly roused over the operations of a secret society in New Orleans, and much was written and said about the Mafia at the time. It is true some of the men were old Mafiti, but I have the word of an Italian secret-service official of high rank that the band was a purely65 independent organization. About a year ago a terrible murder was committed by Italians in New York, and there was not one of the great leading dailies and the reviewing periodicals but pronounced it an outbreak of a Mafia band. A number of men were arrested, with strong proof against them, 148and they were labeled “The Band,” and connections with other Mafia bands sought for in Buffalo66, Chicago, New Orleans, and elsewhere. Very serious editors discussed “the growth of the Mafia in America” and “the frightful67 influx68 of criminal Italians.” The whole had considerable influence on the Shattuc bill. The truth of the matter is that “The Band” was merely a small gang of counterfeiters, most of them men of such undesirable69 qualities that they would never have been able to gain admission to the Mafia; and they were no more Mafiti, strictly70 speaking, than are the members of the American Board of Foreign Missions. I repeat, “the Mafia in America” is nothing but a bugaboo. Men who belong to small criminal gangs used the word as a means of extortion, and the mysterious murders which happen frequently—always with Italians as the victims—are private vendettas71. When we consider that the Sicilian considers it just as much his inherent right to stab a man who has done him a great wrong as the American Southerner to lynch a negro who has turned beast, and that criminal Italians in America work astounding72 injustices73 on their gullible74 countrymen, it is a wonder that there are not more mysterious murders than there are. The deportation75 from America of about six shiploads of Italian parasites76 who live on the labor77 of their fellows would put an end to all such things in this country. The average Italian living in America would rather go to prison for five or ten years than be deported78. And many an Italian gladly goes to prison to be maintained while he learns a trade and how to read and write English.
It seemed strange indeed to be leading a company of honest country folk along a street so noted79 for its dark crimes, but in the hearty80 greetings and hospitality of the 149people about us in the Pallonetto there was no sign of the blackness of that other day.
It was most amusing when I piled the whole crowd on a car bound out toward Possilipo, past the villas81 on the northern rim61 of the wonderful bay. I had let many cars go by till I saw one coming that was nearly empty, and when we were all in we nearly filled it. The boys all wanted to sit together. They were in high glee, and crowded nine into one seat, to the dismay of the conductor and the entertainment of the other passengers. The conductor stopped the car and straightened them out, distributing them into empty places. When the car was going at full speed I looked back and saw that every one was holding on to the seat for dear life, and watching Antonio and myself anxiously to see if we gave any sign that we were in danger. Having occasion to change cars, Concetta and Camela lost their heads and sprang upon the other car while it was still in motion. Antonio and the conductor caught them and lifted them up, or else one or the other would certainly have been hurt. If our people were so overwhelmed by life in Naples I wondered what they would do in New York. However, before this evening trip was over, and we went back to the Albergo della Rosa, my wife and I both remarked a change that had come over all, especially the younger ones. It was one of the first displays of their adaptability,—one of the best characteristics of the Italians now pouring into America. In a few hours they had got a fine grasp on city ways, and the people we brought back to the emigrant lodging-house behaved far differently from those we had taken away. The wild look was gone from Concetta’s eyes, and only in the roar of Broadway did I see it again.
150There is no part of southern Italy where the flea82 is not a bloodthirsty brigand83, but in Naples he seems to partake of the characteristics of the city and is clever, wily, bold, and—oh! so numerous. In the Albergo della Rosa, that night, it really seemed that the vermin of southern Europe, brought to the lodging-house by emigrants from all lands, had assembled for an international clinic, and we were the subjects. If that great man who makes animals talk in his books had only been there, he would have heard the Grecian bedbug telling the Russian Jew louse that he and the Syrian sand-gnat had just had a choice nip of raw American that had been pointed out to him by the Calabrese fleas84 who were first-cousins of their hosts the Neapolitans.
Some beast of the night had bitten little Ina on the right eyelid85, and when we arose in the morning the eye was almost closed.
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steamship
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| n.汽船，轮船 | |
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emigrant
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| adj.移居的，移民的；n.移居外国的人，移民 | |
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embarkation
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| n. 乘船, 搭机, 开船 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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broiling
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| adj.酷热的，炽热的，似烧的v.（用火）烤（焙、炙等）( broil的现在分词 )；使卷入争吵；使混乱；被烤（或炙） | |
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broker
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| n.中间人，经纪人；v.作为中间人来安排 | |
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emigrants
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| n.（从本国移往他国的）移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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herded
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| 群集，纠结( herd的过去式和过去分词 )； 放牧； （使）向…移动 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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huddled
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| 挤在一起（huddle的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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pickets
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| 罢工纠察员( picket的名词复数 ) | |
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doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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mendicant
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| n.乞丐；adj.行乞的 | |
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buxom
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| adj.（妇女）丰满的，有健康美的 | |
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ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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confided
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| v.吐露（秘密，心事等）( confide的过去式和过去分词 )；（向某人）吐露（隐私、秘密等） | |
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hustled
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| 催促（hustle的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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fictitious
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| adj.虚构的，假设的；空头的 | |
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swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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uproar
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| n.骚动，喧嚣，鼎沸 | |
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ransacked
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| v.彻底搜查( ransack的过去式和过去分词 )；抢劫，掠夺 | |
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agitated
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| adj.被鼓动的，不安的 | |
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meek
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| adj.温顺的，逆来顺受的 | |
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outrageous
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| adj.无理的，令人不能容忍的 | |
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wiles
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| n.（旨在欺骗或吸引人的）诡计，花招；欺骗，欺诈( wile的名词复数 ) | |
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dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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turmoil
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| n.骚乱，混乱，动乱 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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wares
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| n. 货物, 商品 | |
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trumpery
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| n.无价值的杂物；adj.（物品）中看不中用的 | |
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inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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horde
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| n.群众，一大群 | |
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pounced
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| v.突然袭击( pounce的过去式和过去分词 )；猛扑；一眼看出；抓住机会（进行抨击） | |
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commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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importunate
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| adj.强求的；纠缠不休的 | |
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murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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subdued
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| adj. 屈服的，柔和的，减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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stew
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| n.炖汤，焖，烦恼；v.炖汤，焖，忧虑 | |
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savory
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| adj.风味极佳的，可口的，味香的 | |
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stimulated
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| a.刺激的 | |
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appalled
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| v.使惊骇，使充满恐惧( appall的过去式和过去分词)adj.惊骇的；丧胆的 | |
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splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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piazza
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| n.广场；走廊 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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halfway
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| adj.中途的，不彻底的，部分的；adv.半路地，在中途，在半途 | |
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spurt
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| v.喷出；突然进发；突然兴隆 | |
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exclamation
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| n.感叹号，惊呼，惊叹词 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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arcade
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| n.拱廊；(一侧或两侧有商店的)通道 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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stringent
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| adj.严厉的；令人信服的；银根紧的 | |
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middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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frightful
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| adj.可怕的；讨厌的 | |
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influx
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| n.流入，注入 | |
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undesirable
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| adj.不受欢迎的，不良的，不合意的，讨厌的；n.不受欢迎的人，不良分子 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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vendettas
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| n.家族世仇( vendetta的名词复数 )；族间仇杀；长期争斗；积怨 | |
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astounding
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| adj.使人震惊的vt.使震惊，使大吃一惊astound的现在分词) | |
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injustices
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| 不公平( injustice的名词复数 )； 非正义； 待…不公正； 冤枉 | |
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gullible
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| adj.易受骗的；轻信的 | |
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deportation
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| n.驱逐，放逐 | |
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parasites
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| 寄生物( parasite的名词复数 )； 靠他人为生的人； 诸虫 | |
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labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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deported
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| v.将…驱逐出境( deport的过去式和过去分词 )；举止 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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villas
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| 别墅，公馆( villa的名词复数 )； （城郊）住宅 | |
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flea
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| n.跳蚤 | |
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brigand
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| n.土匪，强盗 | |
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fleas
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| n.跳蚤( flea的名词复数 )；爱财如命；没好气地（拒绝某人的要求） | |
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eyelid
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| n.眼睑，眼皮 | |
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