IT was with strangely mingled1 feelings that I left London one Saturday evening, left the capital of one great Empire supposed to rest on firm foundations, considered strong in the council of nations, to visit the heart of yet another Empire once considered mighty2 and of weighty influence in Europe, now tottering3 to its fall with alarming rapidity, under the staggering blows of four small peoples, young and purposeful, unspoilt by wealth and power.
The lights of Dover gleamed steadily4 in a black sky, the dark waters gave back broken reflections from a brilliantly lit liner making her stately way down Channel, as the throbbing5 turbines carried our little ship towards the East. A grey morning rose over the Dutch landscape, shrouded6 trees reflected heavily in the sullen7 waters of dykes8 and canals. A grey sky hung heavily over the teeming9 life{18} of industrial Westphalia, and broke into heavy drops of rain over the wide plains of Hanover, and poured in torrents10 into the well-lit streets of Berlin, the “Ville Lumière” of Europe since Paris relinquished11 the splendour of an Imperial Court.
From Berlin my road turned to south-east, past prosperous cities such as Frankfort-on-the-Oder, Breslau, towards that corner of Europe where three Empires meet on what was once part of the picturesque12 Kingdom of Poland, long since forced into the realm of things forgotten by those three Powers that meet here. It is a gloomy country, black and ungainly in its tense industrial existence.
As it were, subconsciously13, I felt like one hurrying to the death-bed of a friend; strange, for I have no reason to consider the Turk my friend. Indeed, though I like the individual Turks I have met, I cannot summon up a really friendly feeling for a Power which has deliberately14 mis-governed its varied15 subjects, has times out of number countenanced16, even encouraged, acts the remembrance of which makes the heart sick. Yet in spite of reasoning, that feeling of hurrying to the death-bed of a friend never left me, but it had in it something of the antagonism17 which, as psychologists declare, is an ingredient of the love of a man for a woman. No doubt pity was mingled with this feeling, pity for a mighty race of conquerors18 now humbled19 to the dust, however much those ruling them be to blame; again there was anxiety as to the fate of the beautiful city, the City of Constantine, my destination; fear, a nameless fear, filled me, the son of a great Empire, as I thought over the fate of another Empire found unprepared to uphold a position it insisted upon, and therefore rudely awakened20 and thrust aside by young, strong nations whose sons know not how to shirk responsibility, neither do the men{19} and women of those peoples shun21 any sacrifice to gain what they whole-heartedly desire.
This strange feeling that obsessed22 me became stronger as I left well-ordered Germany behind, and felt the subtle influence of the East on entering Austrian territory. In the first place the traveller’s comfort is affected23, for German orderliness makes way to Austrian laisser-aller, resulting in a want of cleanliness in the railway carriages. Apologists say that this state is due to the many Polish Jews who freely use their cheap season tickets; this might account for the dirty condition of third-class carriages when packed with worthies24 in greasy25 gaberdines, with ringlets dangling26 down from either temple; it is no pleasure to pass through a third-class carriage on your way to the dining-car. However well this excuse may serve, I found no attempted cleanliness in any other class while travelling through Austrian territory, and it seemed that the Roumanian railway authorities do not set much store by the God-like virtue27 either, at least as far as the accommodation of travellers is concerned.
Throughout my travels I have found that romance and picturesqueness28 are seldom separated from dirt, and, fortunately, the former may often outbalance the latter. The world of romance became gently insistent29 as the railroad left the teeming coalfields of Prussian Poland behind and passed on to places famous in the history of the Kingdom of Poland—Cracow, still a centre of the refined and gracious intellectuality which characterizes Polish nobility. Then, again, there is Przemysl (hopeless the effort to pronounce it), yet it is the name of a mighty dynasty which reigned30 over Bohemia from here for at least a century in those days when the Christian31 world was moving eastward32 as crusaders, under Frederick Barbarossa, and for a short time ousted33 the Greek{20} Emperors from the seat of Constantine in favour of the Latin Emperors, Baldwin and his successors. Here, again, Empires have gone under and their lands have been divided among younger races. We hurry on ever to south-east, and shortly enter a land which was formerly34 a portion of the Empire now on its death-bed—Moldavia, a province of Roumania.
Roumania is a very interesting country, and I must own to a kind of spell which its past history and its present prosperity cast upon me. The former is stirring indeed. Memories of histories I had read came crowding in upon me as I travelled through Moldavia, the country separated from Russia by the Pruth, watered by the Sereth and its tributaries35, Moldava, Bistritza, and others that come down from the Carpathian Mountains into the fertile plain. The Carpathians, snow-tipped, densely36 wooded on their lower slopes, accompanied me in the blue distance, until about the latitude37 of Galatz they turned away to westward38, curving round in their southern range until they meet the Danube at Orsova, and force it to narrow down to a third of its stately width in order to pass through the Iron Gates. I thought of all those hordes39 of wandering barbarians40 whose course was deflected41 by the Carpathians, showing again how nature’s barriers form the destinies of men. Streams of savages42 poured into this valley from the plains of Western Russia. Who were the first inhabitants is matter of conjecture43: Scythians probably occupied the eastern districts, Thracians and Dacians were found by Trajan in the western part. Trajan conquered the Dacians in his campaign of 101-106 A.D., and founded a colony called Dacia Trajana. The column to this Emperor’s honour, in Rome, sets forth44 the story of his conquest. The Dacians were by no means easy people to deal with, and Rome—Imperial Rome—had much trouble with{21} Decebal, their King, who was finally vanquished45, and committed suicide in order to escape from the disgrace of following the conqueror’s triumphal chariot through the Roman Forum46.
Among the Roman remains47 scattered48 about the western parts of Roumania are the bridge-heads at Turn Severin and the ruined tower of Severus in the public gardens of that thriving township. It is supposed by the Roumanians themselves that they are descended49 from the Roman colonists50 of Dacia Trajana, and they point to their language in evidence. Theirs is indeed a Latin tongue, but language is often a false guide in the difficult and intricate paths of ethnology. It seems to me open to doubt that Rome of the second century could have afforded a sufficiently51 large supply of emigrants52 to people a large colony; and that the whole Roumanian nation should be descended from the Roman legionaries seems unlikely, for in the first instance it does not follow that the legionaries were all Romans, or even Latins, and again, if they had been, there would have been only a small proportion of them who would be permitted to bring wives and families with them. Moreover, the Roman tenure53 of the land was short, only about a century and a half, as in 270 the Goths streamed in from the north-east, obliging Emperor Aurelian to withdraw his troops into the province of Moesia, subsequently called Dacia Aureliana. The Goths were not inclined to settle anywhere in those days; they simply plundered54 and murdered as they went along, and probably left no definite impression on the races they were pleased to visit. We shall meet them again nearer Constantinople.
Huns and Gepidi probably left stronger traces in the population of the former Roman province of Dacia Trajana when they swarmed55 through it in the middle of the fifth{22} century, and I am inclined to think that in the middle of the next century the invading Avari made a deeper impression. Slavs and Bulgars forced their way here, and of the former many traces have been found, leading to the supposition that they enter largely into the composition of the Roumanian people. The Hungarians may have contributed something towards building up the present people of Roumania, when they marched through in 830, and subsequent Slav races, such as the Petschenegs in 900 and the Kumani, Tartars, in 1050, probably added their quota56. At any rate German influence had vanished, and Slavs and Finns (Bulgars), with detachments of other wandering races united, blended into one, and it is thus that the Roumanian nation of to-day may be said to have originated. Dacia of Roman days extended well into Hungary of the present day, Transylvania, and the Banat, with the present divisions of Roumania, being a number of duchies still called Dacia in those days, though Imperial Rome had long abandoned the part of “Weltmacht.” In the tenth and eleventh centuries, no doubt owing to the intervening Carpathians, Transylvania and the Banat became subject to Hungary, while the duchies of Wallachia and Moldavia crystallized into political entities57, and were found to be sufficiently powerful to keep out the Kumani and check the Tartars in the fourteenth century.
Towards the end of the fourteenth century yet another race came into Dacia from out of the East, driven from their homes in India by Tamerlane. They are known by various names, and are spread all over Europe. We call them gipsies, the Germans “Zigeuner,” from “Tsigani,” the name by which they are known in Eastern Europe. They call themselves Romanies, probably because they made Roumania their home, and here they are to be found in great numbers. Their language is Roumanian, though{23} they have acquired many others in the course of their wanderings. Wherever they go they bring music with them, grand epics58, love-songs, quaint59 little popular ditties, which they sing to the accompaniment of string instruments. It is these Tsigani who have been instrumental in keeping alive the traditions of a great past among the peoples of the Balkan countries. Together with religion, their songs have helped to preserve the national identity of Roumanians and Serbs, have fostered racial ambitions, and inspired heroes to fight for freedom. They sing in soul-stirring epics of Stephan Dushan, of great Voivods who led men to battle, of Hunyadi Janos and his paladins, of ill-fated Knjes Lazar, whose army of crusaders went under in a sea of blood before the sword of Othman on the Amselfeld at Kossovo, since recaptured by the Serbs. Their songs tell of great men rulers of the independent principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia; of Michael the Brave, who lived when Henri IV was King of France. Michael showed the Osmanli that it is vain to attempt the suppression of a strong race and its religion. No doubt the attempt seemed successful for a while; Cantomir of Moldavia and Brancovan of Wallachia, allied60 to Peter the Great of Russia, suffered defeat at the hands of the Turks on the banks of the Pruth, and had to submit to the rule of Greek hospodars, placed in power by the Porte, for a period of fifty-eight years.
The duchies, like greater Powers in Eastern Europe, were unable for long to withstand the influence of the latest race to come from out of the East, and became subject to the Osmanli. During troubled centuries of Turkish suzerainty the Roumanian people preserved their faith, their national characteristics, and this enabled them to rise as a young, strong race when the hour of deliverance came. They had absorbed from their conquerors a number of able{24} men, whose descendants have since identified themselves with the ambitions of Roumania, whose names are writ61 large on the tablets of fame among those who helped to make Roumania free. Of one of these the following story is told. There lived in Stamboul a gentle, business-like Armenian, by trade a cats’-meat man. Among his customers he noticed an elderly, dejected individual who was very particular in his choice of the daily morsel62 of meat, choosing liver as a rule. Now it struck the Armenian that possibly this daily purchase might be meant for human consumption, instead of for the delectation of a pet cat; careful inquiries63 led to the following discovery. His customer was an old servant, the only one who had remained true to his master, and that master, once Grand Vizier, had fallen from his high estate on very evil times. The Armenian cats’-meat man thereupon thought fit to be charitable, provided his customer with better wares64, and suggested that payment might be deferred65 until a brighter day. By one of those turns of the wheel not unusual in Oriental countries, the former Grand Vizier rose from poverty and rags to power again, and decided66 to reward the Armenian. Considering that one candidate for the vacant post of Vali of Moldavia was likely to be as bad as another, he decided to thus endow the cats’-meat man, who possibly developed unsuspected talent in his new line of business. At any rate, he is the putative67 ancestor of one of Roumania’s greatest princely houses, the Ghika family. There are descendants of yet more ancient families still to be found in Roumania, amongst them some Cantacuzene, of Byzantine fame.
Roumania followed Greece and Servia in wresting68 its freedom from the Turk, and the Convention of Paris in 1856 assured the autonomous69 rights of the principalities, their union into one State, and constitutional government. A native magnate, Colonel Alexander Cusa, ruled as Prince{25} Alexander John I for ten years, and although his election to that position was not in exact accordance with the Treaty of Paris, was nevertheless sanctioned by the Powers. This Prince resigned in 1866, and as a Count of Flanders, younger brother of the King of the Belgians, declined the invitation to succeed him, Prince Charles of Hohenzollern Sigmaringen accepted it as Carol I. In 1877 Roumania declared herself completely independent of Turkey, much against Russia’s wishes, and ceased to pay tribute to the Porte. This precipitated70 the war against Turkey, and three divisions of Roumanian troops, some 35,000 men, with 108 guns, led by their Prince, joined the Russian forces. Prince Charles himself fired the first shot at Vidin, and his gallant71 troops followed him on to victory. They particularly distinguished72 themselves by spirited bayonet attacks at Plevna, and it was to the Roumanian troops that Osman Pasha surrendered. Roumania was not called to the conference at S. Stefano, and had to trust to Russia’s good offices in order to get her independence fully73 recognized. For this kindness Russia annexed74 fruitful Bessarabia, leaving to Roumania the swamps of the Dobrutsha. On the 22nd (10th) of May, 1881, the Hohenzollern Prince was crowned King of Roumania, having been duly proclaimed by both Chambers75 of the country’s Parliament. He rules still, and wisely, over a prosperous country of 50,702 square miles, with a population of six to seven millions.
The majority of the people of Roumania belong to the Orthodox Greek Church, have so far lived in peace with their neighbours, and are happy and prosperous. But they have not remained unaffected by the desperate events which brought such an upheaval76 to the other Balkan States. There is among the younger generation considerable discontent at the supposed subservience77 of{26} Roumania’s foreign policy to the dictates78 of her mighty friend, Austria. It is argued that if Austria had not vetoed Roumania’s mobilization on the outbreak of the Balkan War, that war might have been stopped. As matters stand at present, many Roumanians think that they have missed an opportunity of getting some useful trifle of territory for themselves, or that they have been deprived of opportunity, and are consequently very sore about it. So here, too, threatening clouds obscure the political horizon.
It would be a ghastly sequel to the indecision of the Great Powers if this plucky79 little kingdom were called upon to face an invader80, if grim-visaged war were to cast its shadow over the fair fields and fertile plains of Roumania. The rich soil produces abundance of wheat, maize81, and other cereals, and would produce more but for the summer droughts. I have seen the rich yellow maize being garnered82, and have watched the golden wealth of corn shipped into boats and barges83 on the Danube, to be taken down to Braila, Galatz, and thence onward84 to feed other countries less bountifully supplied. Then there are vast forests, another source of wealth. It is only a few weeks ago that I was tramping over crisp snow in the shade of close-standing forest trees. A friend had asked me to go out with him after wild boar. It was a glorious day; cool greys and purples in the forest, with here and there a patch of rich brown soil, and through the trees the sun, in a clear blue sky, drew radiance from the snow, and showed up on a background of dark green firs the golden glory of larches85, the red and russet leaves of wild cherry, and other trees, on which the foliage86 still lingered ere the winter storms set in. Winter is very severe in this country, and wolves come down from the mountains to the villages in the plains in search of their prey87. There is other game in plenty; bear may be found in the depths of the Carpathian{27} forests, and the wild cat, in thick black and grey striped coat, steals through the undergrowth like his larger kinsmen88 of the jungle.
Bucharest, the capital of Roumania, is a town for which I have a sincere liking89. It is not a large place, only some 300,000, but it is a well-planned town, gay, just a little wicked, and above all, the inhabitants insist on the best of music, and get it at such places as the Continental90 Hotel, where you can dine well to the strains of an excellent gipsy orchestra.
Roumania occupies a position of some danger in the complex polity of South-East Europe. To eastward, across the Pruth, looms91 the massive strength of Russia, never yet put to a severe test, so that its power is still an unknown quantity. To southward across the Danube live the Bulgarians, a strong, ambitious people, and, as far as I can ascertain92, not on the friendliest terms with Roumania. But behind Roumania is the Empire of Kaiser Franz Josef, and Austrian influence is strong, especially in the industrial life of Roumania. It would be piteous to carry war into this happy country, with its flourishing agriculture, its prosperous oil-fields, at Bustenari, Campi?a, etc. But Roumania has taken due precautions; a navy of some seventy-five small but well-appointed vessels93 guards Roumanian interests on the Black Sea coast; they may be seen occasionally on the lower reaches of the Danube, by the huge bridge that carries the railway over to Constanza, the Brighton of the Black Sea littoral94, or perhaps Trouville is a more apt comparison. Here also ends the wall which Trajan built from the Danube across the narrowest part of the Dobrutsha.
Then, again, the Roumanian Army is well able to hold its own. The war establishment of the regular army, well trained and well equipped, numbers 175,000 troops, more{28} by three-quarters than Great Britain’s expeditionary force. To this should be added a territorial95 force of excellent quality of about equal numbers, altogether a formidable obstacle to any one who wishes to interfere96 with Roumania’s position in the world. For this adequate defence Roumania pays somewhat less than two and a half millions.
As I wrote this the political horizon of Roumania was dark with heavy storm-clouds, for her eastern neighbour is like to be drawn97 into the strife98 which is altering the state of Southern Europe, the onslaught of the southern Slav nations on their old oppressors at Constantinople. The southern frontier of Roumania at least was safe, for the Bulgarians were hammering now at the gates of Constantinople, pouring out their blood like water by the lines of Chatalja.
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1
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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tottering
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| adj.蹒跚的，动摇的v.走得或动得不稳( totter的现在分词 )；踉跄；蹒跚；摇摇欲坠 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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throbbing
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| a. 跳动的,悸动的 | |
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shrouded
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| v.隐瞒( shroud的过去式和过去分词 )；保密 | |
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sullen
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| adj.愠怒的，闷闷不乐的，(天气等)阴沉的 | |
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dykes
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| abbr.diagonal wire cutters 斜线切割机n.堤( dyke的名词复数 )；坝；堰；沟 | |
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teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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relinquished
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| 交出，让给( relinquish的过去式和过去分词 )； 放弃 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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subconsciously
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| ad.下意识地，潜意识地 | |
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deliberately
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| adv.审慎地；蓄意地；故意地 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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countenanced
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| v.支持，赞同，批准( countenance的过去式 ) | |
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antagonism
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| n.对抗，敌对，对立 | |
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conquerors
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| 征服者，占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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humbled
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| adj. 卑下的，谦逊的，粗陋的 vt. 使 ... 卑下，贬低 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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shun
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| vt.避开，回避，避免 | |
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obsessed
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| adj.心神不宁的,鬼迷心窍的,沉迷的 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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worthies
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| 应得某事物( worthy的名词复数 )； 值得做某事； 可尊敬的； 有（某人或事物）的典型特征 | |
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greasy
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| adj. 多脂的，油脂的 | |
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dangling
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| 悬吊着( dangle的现在分词 )； 摆动不定； 用某事物诱惑…； 吊胃口 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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picturesqueness
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insistent
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| adj.迫切的，坚持的 | |
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reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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ousted
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| 驱逐( oust的过去式和过去分词 )； 革职； 罢黜； 剥夺 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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densely
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| ad.密集地；浓厚地 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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barbarians
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| n.野蛮人( barbarian的名词复数 )；外国人；粗野的人；无教养的人 | |
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deflected
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| 偏离的 | |
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savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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45
vanquished
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| v.征服( vanquish的过去式和过去分词 )；战胜；克服；抑制 | |
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46
forum
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| n.论坛，讨论会 | |
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47
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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48
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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49
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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51
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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emigrants
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| n.（从本国移往他国的）移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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53
tenure
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| n.终身职位；任期；(土地)保有权，保有期 | |
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plundered
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| 掠夺，抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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swarmed
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| 密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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quota
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| n.（生产、进出口等的）配额，（移民的）限额 | |
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entities
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| 实体对像； 实体，独立存在体，实际存在物( entity的名词复数 ) | |
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epics
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| n.叙事诗( epic的名词复数 )；壮举；惊人之举；史诗般的电影（或书籍） | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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allied
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| adj.协约国的；同盟国的 | |
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writ
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| n.命令状，书面命令 | |
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morsel
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| n.一口，一点点 | |
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inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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wares
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| n. 货物, 商品 | |
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deferred
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| adj.延期的，缓召的v.拖延，延缓，推迟( defer的过去式和过去分词 )；服从某人的意愿，遵从 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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putative
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| adj.假定的 | |
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wresting
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| 动词wrest的现在进行式 | |
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autonomous
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| adj.自治的；独立的 | |
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precipitated
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| v.（突如其来地）使发生( precipitate的过去式和过去分词 )；促成；猛然摔下；使沉淀 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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annexed
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| [法] 附加的，附属的 | |
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chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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upheaval
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| n.胀起，(地壳)的隆起；剧变，动乱 | |
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subservience
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| n.有利，有益；从属（地位），附属性；屈从，恭顺；媚态 | |
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dictates
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| n.命令，规定，要求( dictate的名词复数 )v.大声讲或读( dictate的第三人称单数 )；口授；支配；摆布 | |
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plucky
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| adj.勇敢的 | |
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invader
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| n.侵略者，侵犯者，入侵者 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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garnered
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| v.收集并（通常）贮藏（某物），取得，获得( garner的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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barges
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| 驳船( barge的名词复数 ) | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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larches
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| n.落叶松（木材）( larch的名词复数 ) | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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kinsmen
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| n.家属，亲属( kinsman的名词复数 ) | |
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liking
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| n.爱好；嗜好；喜欢 | |
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continental
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| adj.大陆的，大陆性的，欧洲大陆的 | |
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looms
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| n.织布机( loom的名词复数 )v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的第三人称单数 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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littoral
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| adj.海岸的；湖岸的；n.沿（海）岸地区 | |
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territorial
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| adj.领土的，领地的 | |
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interfere
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| v.(in)干涉，干预；(with)妨碍，打扰 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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strife
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| n.争吵，冲突，倾轧，竞争 | |
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