Leaving Clotten behind us, we walked on, under a broiling1 sun, to Pommern. At the back of Pommern is a long, winding2, narrow valley, through which the Pommerbach runs. Where it enters the Moselle, the banks of our river are covered with turf and shade-spreading trees. Under these latter we lay, enjoying the cool after our hot, dusty walk. The brook3 was nearly dry, so we made an agreement with a wild-looking girl, who was watching some cows drink in the river, that she should for the sum of twopence sterling4 fetch us a pannikin of fresh, cold water, we stipulating5 to look after her cows in the meanwhile. [220]We found our task rather difficult, as the cows were a most unruly set of brutes6, who, not recognising our authority, wished to make their way into the adjoining gardens. At length, however, the water arrived, and the bargain was completed.
Most luxurious7 was the fresh well-water, the tree-shade, and the rest: a cigar also lent its “enchantment to the view,” which embraced a reach of the river, with the woods on its shores, glowing in the noonday haze8. Close to us was an ancient chateau9, with its high-peaked roof and many gables; a tower was at one end, and over the roof appeared the church spire10. The brook trickled11 past, and the pollard willows13 on its green banks marked its course down to the river. The chateau is now only used as a farm, and the upper part was stored with hay. Formerly14 it was the residence of a knight15, who held it in fief from the Archbishop of Trèves.
Our river lay so still, so clear, so blue beneath us; she also seemed resting till the heat should pass. The mountains, towers, and towns were watching as she slept over the glorious beauty of our Fairy Queen Moselle. As of old, in her earliest days, the freshness of purity still was in her waters,—still innocence17 and beauty were combined in her azure18 form; but who shall describe the glory of her maturity19, the loveliness of her now perfected form?
It was noontide, and no foot was stirring. The birds had ceased their songs, the trees were motionless, and the still mountains were repeated in the [221]stream, as though they had plunged20 from their burning heights headforemost into the cool wave.
And thus we sat and mused21: speech would have been desecration22. Peace was on the earth! What sermons Nature preaches!—always eloquent23 and simple. How she touches our hearts, and teaches us the truth; while human eloquence24, with all its art, fails to impress or rouse us from our state of apathy25! What lessons may be learnt, what blessings26 gained, in a summer’s ramble27 by rivers’ banks, and through the mighty28 forest, where the silence is more eloquent than words; or on the mountain-tops, where earth seems already left behind, and the sky appears almost within our reach!
A little below Pommern, where a large island ends, we crossed to Treis, and went through the meadow valley to the base of the rock on which Treis Castle stands. It was a good climb to the summit, and the path appeared as unfrequented as the forest round the princess who slept until an adventurous29 knight woke her with a kiss.
The castle of Treis belonged to a very ancient family, who sent knights30 to the Holy Land under Godfrey de Bouillon. Afterwards it passed into the hands of Queen Richenza of Poland, who gave it to the Convent of Brauweiler, and it was henceforth garrisoned33 for the Church by dependants34 of the Archbishop of Trèves.
On one occasion, the Pfalz-graf of the Rhine sent word to the Governor of the castle that the Church [222]did not want forts, as it was sufficiently35 protected by the Divine power. The Governor acquainted the Bishop16, and he excommunicated the Pfalz-graf for his impiety37 (a step the bishops38 always seem to have taken in their personal quarrels). The Pfalz-graf, however, did not care for the Bishop’s threats, and took the castle.
The angry Bishop assembled an army, and marched to retake this Church property. He soon appeared before the castle, and, with his crucifix in his hand, summoned it to surrender, and upbraided39 the Pfalz-graf for seizing it.
The Pfalz-graf, seeing the army of the Bishop was too numerous for him to contend with successfully, began to think the Bishop’s arguments were strong ones, so he quietly gave up the castle.
The poet ends by saying what may be thus almost literally40 translated:—
“The Cross a perfect victory gained,
“Thus was its mightiness41 maintained.”
This castle is curiously42 constructed. It is placed on the summit of a neck of land, both sides of which are precipitous. The keep is at the outer extremity43 of this neck, and the high rock on which it stands towers perpendicularly44 from the valley to the height of some four hundred feet. The main part of the castle was on the neck of land, and at the inner end of the neck was a very strong gate-tower and other buildings. These three portions of the castle were joined together by strong walls: but if the [223]gate-tower was forced the garrison32 could first of all defend the centre, which was divided by a great ditch from the gate-tower; and, finally, they could retire into the keep, which formed a castle in itself. Thus the assailants had to take three separate fortresses45.
The tower and considerable fragments of the other parts of this castle still remain, wrapped in solitude46. The old hall can still be traced. Where the knights caroused47 and the ladies smiled is now the haunt of the owl48, who sleeps among the branches of ivy49 that are gradually forcing out the stones from the old walls.
IVY-GIRT RUINS.
From the ruined, crumbling50 wall,
Ancient fragments downwards51 fall,
No longer held in iron grasp
By ivy hands, which twining clasp
Those ancient towers and turrets52 grey,
To which their girdling brings decay.
As an old nation, tottering53 to its fall,
Doth foreign legions to its armies call,
A time triumphant54! then the hireling Band,
That erstwhile strengthened, seize on the command.
Alike the ivy and the friend
Their aid insidious55 freely lend,
And gradual push their fibres in,
Until the tower or land they win,—
Until the yoke56 is firmly placed,
Or firm the twigs57 are interlaced;
Then dies all freedom from the conquered land,—
Then is the ancient tower compelled to stand,
Supporting by its strength the plant whose sway,
Like despot monarch’s, brings it sure decay.
Years wear away, the despot’s crown
Is green with laurel of renown58. [224]
In slavery the nation groans59:
Griped by the iron twigs, the stones,
Disjointed from their firm array
By tyrant60 plants’ (or monarchs’) sway,
Fall crashing down, and in like ruin hurled61
Are walls, and stones, and conqu’rors of the world;
Oppressors and oppressed all equal share
The curse inhaled62 in slavery’s foul63 air.
Treis boasts a fine church and good inns. Carden is a town of size, and many of the buildings deserve notice, the first is the old toll-house, the landing-place.
Toll-house.
Toll-house.
[225]
On the hill opposite Carden is a chapel64 high upon a rock: the road leading to it has at intervals65 shrines66, at which the religious processions halt on their way to the chapel. Through the vineyards inland of the town there is also a road, with shrines at every ten yards; this likewise leads up to a Calvary chapel. Carden, in the number of its religious edifices67, surpasses all the other small towns on the river.
Many of these buildings are now secularised into barns and outhouses, but the church of St. Castor has just been repaired, as also a small, elegant chapel, that stands close to the river.
[Contents]
LEGEND OF ST. CASTOR.
For many years St. Castor lived in the forest, eating nothing but herbs, and drinking only from the clear spring. He taught the Gospel to all, and was much reverenced68 by his hearers.
The people, who were living in rough huts in the forest, now collected by St. Castor, built a village, and raised a church to the glory of God. His work completed, the Saint died; and in the course of centuries men forgot where his body had been laid, until a certain priest dreamt, and in his dream it was revealed to him where the Saint slept. Thrice this dream was repeated; so, going to the Bishop of Trèves, the priest told him what had occurred. Search was then made, and the bones of the Saint were discovered; and over them was raised the stately church [226]which we see at the present day, and which is dedicated69 to this good Saint.
Brauer’s Inn is good, and Carden is a very interesting old place. The space near the church is surrounded by funny-looking, high-peaked old houses, a group of which we here give.
The highly picturesque70 and interesting castle of Elz is about four miles distant from Carden. It is situated71 on a great rock in a narrow valley, and surrounded on three sides by the Elz brook, that nearly encircles the rock. The hills surrounding are higher than the rock the castle is on, and completely shut it in. They are densely73 covered with forests, full of roe-deer: hares, foxes, and occasionally wolves, are shot there in winter.
The lord of the castle sometimes comes there to shoot, or to fish in the Elz brook, which is swarming74 with trout75.
We slept in Carden, so as to have the whole day [227]to explore the valley of Elz; and early the following morning we set off over the hills, passing out from the town under one of its little old gateways76, several of which still remain.
Coming suddenly on Elz as we gained the top of the mountain above it, the view was very striking; we might have been living in the dead centuries, it looked so perfectly77 habitable; and yet there was such a quaint36 look about it, it seemed scarcely real. Soon after we met some of the Count’s people going out with dogs and guns: they were dressed after the fashion of huntsmen whose representatives appear nowadays only in theatres,—at least, so we thought until now.
On reaching the castle, we found it more ruinous [228]than we at first had supposed. On ringing a bell we were admitted, and shown over the rooms, in which are preserved many old pieces of armour78, arms, pictures, and furniture; also spoils of the chase.
The shapes of the rooms, and the staircases leading to them, are wonderful: two American artists were hard at work, sketching79 interiors and old furniture.
We read of a knight, George of Elz, so far back as the tenth century, figuring at a tournament at Magdebourg; and the family holding this castle were always of the highest consideration. But they appear to have been a very turbulent race, and much given to quarrelling amongst themselves, even on some occasions slaying80 each other; and a family agreement was signed by three of the brothers, who seem to have all resided at Elz, which concluded with the following extraordinary terms:—“He of us who shall during this peace kill either his brother or son (from which God defend us!) shall be forced to quit the house, and neither he nor his heirs shall have any rights over the castle of Elz, unless expiation81 for such mortal sin shall be made. He of us who shall disable one of the others, or his wife or child, shall quit the house and never return. He of us who shall wound or stab the other, shall be banished82 the house for a month.”
This wonderful treaty provided that they should assist each other against their common enemies, and they appear to have done so.
Of course, a castle inhabited by such a set of [229]quarrellers is haunted by the ghosts of those murdered; thus Elz is particularly rich in such stories. But, in general, they are only commonplace ghosts,—just ladies knocked into the valley beneath for not kissing an importunate83 lover, or built into a wall by a jealous husband; or a mournful murderer, who howls through the long winter’s nights in expiation of his crimes here committed. In winter time the occupants must need large fires and a good cask of wine to keep out these troublesome spirits. A better one of these ghosts is a lady, who came by her death in the manner recorded in the following version of
[Contents]
THE PERFORATED HARNESS.
The Lady Bertha of Elz was left by her brother, who had gone to fight in the Holy Land, to take care of the castle of Elz; her lover, Count Edmund, had died, and she mourned for him whom she so dearly had loved.
One evening, when the stars were consoling her for the loss of her lover, she sat gazing on them, and tranquillity84 fell on her heart.
The hours silently passed, and the lady prepared for her rest, little thinking how near to its final repose85 life was passing. Suddenly she saw glittering of helmets, and heard noises of clanking of armour below in the valley. Rousing her attendants, Bertha armed herself in a light suit of mail, and went forth31 with her esquires and adherents86 to oppose the [230]robbers, who came like caitiffs to attack a female by night.
Advancing in front of her friends, the courageous87 lady addressed the leaders of the marauders, asking why thus they attacked her. An arrow, launched from an unseen bow, pierced her harness: this was the only reply. Bertha fell dying, and her soldiers rushed on and defeated the foe88.
The Lady Bertha was laid in a grave near the castle, over which a weeping willow12 still points out the spot; and in the still, starlight nights, she and her lover, happy in death, sit hand-in-hand, contented89 and silent.
The castle of Elz was at length taken from its proper possessors by the Archbishop Baldwin of Trèves, who, although outwitted by Lauretta of Sponheim, seems generally to have worsted his enemies.
There had been a long feud90 between the knights and the Bishop, who at last vowed91 to reduce them to obedience92. He accordingly besieged93 the castle in form, and, in order to cut off all supplies, caused a new castle to be erected94 on the rocks opposite (a fragment of it still exists). This new castle he filled with armed men, and at length the knights of Elz agreed to own the warlike Bishop for their liege lord, and henceforth they held the castle as vassals95.
Elz.
Elz.
Three or four miles higher up the valley of Elz is the castle of Pyrmont. It is romantically seated on rocks which border the stream that a little lower [232]down falls in a cascade96 into a deep pool. This fall is said to have been a favourite resort of the lady whose lover met the sad fate here recorded:—
JUTTA OF PYRMONT.
A minstrel came to the castle-gate,
And tidings ill he bore;
He told of the brave Count Fred’rick’s fate,—
The Count was now no more.
For in the far Italian land,
In lowly grave he lay;
Slain97 by the loathsome98 headsman’s hand,
Though spared in the bloody99 fray100.
Of all who loved the noble knight
Only this Page was left,
Who now fulfilled, in woful plight101,
His master’s last behest;
That he should seek far Pyrmont’s walls,
And there his master’s fate,
In Lady Jutta’s lofty halls,
With speed and truth, relate
How many frays102 the Count did win
Till that sad field was fought,
Where he and brave Count Conraddin
Both prisoners in were brought;
How then the coward Duke d’Anjou
Struck off his captive’s head,
And slew103 his followers104 so true
(All save this Page were dead).
The Lady Jutta heard the tale;
No word the lady spake,
But still she sat, and deadly pale,
The whilst her heart did break.
[233]
To convent walls the dying maid
Retired105, her days to close;
Soon in the grave her sorrow laid,
God sent her his repose.
Retracing106 our steps down the valley of the Elzbach, we found a good path leading through the bottom of the vale. Little meadows bordered the brook which we were compelled to cross frequently, but the great stepping-stones afforded a sure footing over the stream in which the trout were greedily rising at flies. It was evening, and on our left the dense72 foliage107 was glowing in light, while the meadows and opposite hills were in shade with little puffs108 of grey spreading in thin lines among the trees.
At the mouth of the valley we came upon Moselkern, and put up at a tidy little inn, where the young lady of the house rather despised two travellers who had no baggage but what their capacious pockets contained. She was a pretty girl, and doubtless a village belle109, so had a right to give herself airs. She, however, relented, and became more polite, when we, regardless of expense, ordered the best wine, which cost at least eighteen-pence a bottle.
In all these inns, we observed that the landlord or his representative thought it a matter of necessity to sit and keep company with his guests, even if they did not talk.
Moselkern we found to be a cheerful village, very prettily110 placed among the trees, just below where the Elz brook falls into the Moselle. Between it and [234]the river is a broad, green piece of land, where boat-building is generally going on.
Here the youth of the place bathe, and the inhabitants meet to discuss the prospects111 of the coming vintage, and rejoice or mourn over the past one.
There seemed to be a great leaning towards the French on the banks of our river. In most of the villages there is to be found some old soldier, who expatiates112 to his listeners on the glorious days of the old Napoleon; and many of the better class of villagers speak a sort of mongrel French. Even among the lowest, French expressions are common.
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1
broiling
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| adj.酷热的，炽热的，似烧的v.（用火）烤（焙、炙等）( broil的现在分词 )；使卷入争吵；使混乱；被烤（或炙） | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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brook
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| n.小河，溪；v.忍受，容让 | |
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sterling
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| adj.英币的(纯粹的，货真价实的)；n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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stipulating
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| v.（尤指在协议或建议中）规定，约定，讲明（条件等）( stipulate的现在分词 )；规定，明确要求 | |
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brutes
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| 兽( brute的名词复数 )； 畜生； 残酷无情的人； 兽性 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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9
chateau
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| n.城堡，别墅 | |
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spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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11
trickled
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| v.滴( trickle的过去式和过去分词 )；淌；使)慢慢走；缓慢移动 | |
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12
willow
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| n.柳树 | |
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willows
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| n.柳树( willow的名词复数 )；柳木 | |
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14
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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17
innocence
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| n.无罪；天真；无害 | |
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18
azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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19
maturity
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| n.成熟；完成；(支票、债券等)到期 | |
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20
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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21
mused
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| v.沉思，冥想( muse的过去式和过去分词 )；沉思自语说（某事） | |
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22
desecration
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| n. 亵渎神圣, 污辱 | |
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23
eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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apathy
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| n.漠不关心，无动于衷；冷淡 | |
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26
blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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27
ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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28
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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30
knights
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| 骑士； （中古时代的）武士( knight的名词复数 )； 骑士； 爵士； （国际象棋中）马 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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garrisoned
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| 卫戍部队守备( garrison的过去式和过去分词 )； 派部队驻防 | |
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dependants
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| 受赡养者，受扶养的家属( dependant的名词复数 ) | |
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35
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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impiety
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| n.不敬；不孝 | |
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bishops
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| （基督教某些教派管辖大教区的）主教( bishop的名词复数 )； （国际象棋的）象 | |
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39
upbraided
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| v.责备，申斥，谴责( upbraid的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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40
literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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41
mightiness
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| n.强大 | |
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42
curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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fortresses
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| 堡垒，要塞( fortress的名词复数 ) | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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caroused
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| v.痛饮，闹饮欢宴( carouse的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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owl
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| n.猫头鹰，枭 | |
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ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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50
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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51
downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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52
turrets
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| （六角）转台( turret的名词复数 )； （战舰和坦克等上的）转动炮塔； （摄影机等上的）镜头转台； （旧时攻城用的）塔车 | |
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53
tottering
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| adj.蹒跚的，动摇的v.走得或动得不稳( totter的现在分词 )；踉跄；蹒跚；摇摇欲坠 | |
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54
triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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55
insidious
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| adj.阴险的，隐匿的，暗中为害的，（疾病）不知不觉之间加剧 | |
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56
yoke
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| n.轭；支配；v.给...上轭，连接，使成配偶 | |
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twigs
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| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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renown
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| n.声誉，名望 | |
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groans
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| n.呻吟，叹息( groan的名词复数 )；呻吟般的声音v.呻吟( groan的第三人称单数 )；发牢骚；抱怨；受苦 | |
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tyrant
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| n.暴君，专制的君主，残暴的人 | |
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hurled
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 )；大声叫骂 | |
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inhaled
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| v.吸入( inhale的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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shrines
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| 圣地，圣坛，神圣场所( shrine的名词复数 ) | |
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edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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reverenced
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| v.尊敬，崇敬( reverence的过去式和过去分词 )；敬礼 | |
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dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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densely
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| ad.密集地；浓厚地 | |
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swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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gateways
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| n.网关( gateway的名词复数 )；门径；方法；大门口 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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armour
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| （=armor）n.盔甲；装甲部队 | |
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sketching
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| n.草图 | |
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slaying
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| 杀戮。 | |
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expiation
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| n.赎罪，补偿 | |
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banished
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| v.放逐，驱逐( banish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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importunate
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| adj.强求的；纠缠不休的 | |
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tranquillity
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| n. 平静, 安静 | |
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repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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adherents
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| n.支持者，拥护者( adherent的名词复数 )；党羽；徒子徒孙 | |
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courageous
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| adj.勇敢的，有胆量的 | |
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foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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feud
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| n.长期不和；世仇；v.长期争斗；世代结仇 | |
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vowed
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| 起誓，发誓（vow的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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obedience
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| n.服从，顺从 | |
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besieged
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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vassals
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| n.奴仆( vassal的名词复数 )；（封建时代）诸侯；从属者；下属 | |
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cascade
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| n.小瀑布，喷流；层叠；vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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loathsome
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| adj.讨厌的，令人厌恶的 | |
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bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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fray
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| v.争吵；打斗；磨损，磨破；n.吵架；打斗 | |
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plight
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| n.困境，境况，誓约，艰难；vt.宣誓，保证，约定 | |
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102
frays
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| n.（使布、绳等）磨损，磨破( fray的名词复数 )v.（使布、绳等）磨损，磨破( fray的第三人称单数 ) | |
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103
slew
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| v.（使）旋转；n.大量，许多 | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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retracing
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| v.折回( retrace的现在分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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107
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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108
puffs
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| n.吸( puff的名词复数 )；（烟斗或香烟的）一吸；一缕（烟、蒸汽等）；（呼吸或风的）呼v.使喷出( puff的第三人称单数 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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109
belle
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| n.靓女 | |
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110
prettily
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| adv.优美地；可爱地 | |
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111
prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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expatiates
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| v.详述，细说( expatiate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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