The steam-whistle, sounding about daybreak on April 15, announced that we were again wrapped in fog. As the Islay advanced at half speed the fog lightened without clearing, until about nine a.m. we made the island of San Lorenzo, and, as the haze7 finally melted away into bright sunshine, found ourselves half an hour later in the harbour of Callao. The moment was exciting for those who, like myself, approached as strangers the shore which had in our childhood seemed so strange, so adventure-fraught, so distant. Already some one had pointed8 out the towers of the Cathedral of Lima, with the Cordillera apparently9 so near that the mountains must begin outside the gates. All stood on deck prepared to land—some already looking forward to luncheon10 in the city of Pizarro—and waiting only for the usual57 formalities of the visit of the sanidad. At length the officials came, and, after the usual parley11 over the ship’s side, it became apparent that the visit was no mere12 formality. At last the ominous13 word quarantine was heard, received at first with mere incredulity, as something too absurd, but at last taking the consistence of a stern fact. Since the outbreak of yellow fever among the troops at Truxillo, the Chilian authorities have naturally become nervously14 anxious to protect the occupying army from this danger, and every precaution is put in force. Under these circumstances, a ship coming from Guayaquil was naturally an object of suspicion. There certainly was not at the time any epidemic15 fever at that place; but, if reports be true, sporadic16 cases are not unfrequent, and that city is rarely, if ever, quite free from malignant17 zymotic disease. At last the discussion was closed, by a definite order that we should repair to the quarantine ground under the lee of the island of San Lorenzo.
IN QUARANTINE AT CALLAO.
Up to this time we had scarcely given attention to the scene immediately surrounding us; yet the harbour of Callao is at any time an interesting sight, and at this moment its aspect was peculiarly expressive20. Although the Chilian forces had before this time become absolute masters of the entire seaboard of Peru, and there was no reason to apprehend21 any renewal22 of the struggle by sea, the memorials of the desperate encounters which marked the earlier phase of the war were here still fresh. Near the shore in several different directions were the wrecks23 of ships which had sunk while the captors were endeavouring to bring them into harbour, the masts sticking up idly58 above water and doing the duty of buoys24. Still afloat, though looking terribly battered25 and scarcely seaworthy, was that remarkable27 little ship, the Huascar, looking a mere pigmy beside the warships28 in the harbour from which the Chilian, American, French, and Italian flags were flying, England being for the moment unrepresented.
The naval29 war between Chili and Peru was conducted at such a distance from Europe, and its causes were so little understood, that it excited but feeble interest. Even the circumstance that, in an encounter brought about by the incompetence30 and rashness of a British commander, the pigmy Peruvian force was able with impunity31 to inflict32 an affront33 on the national flag, scarcely excited in England more than momentary34 surprise. Nevertheless the story of the war, which yet awaits an impartial35 chronicler,5 abounds36 with dramatic incident. The record is ennobled by acts of heroic bravery on both sides, while at the same time it suggests matter for serious consideration to the professional seaman38. The important part which small fast ships, carrying one or two heavy guns only, may play in the altered conditions of naval warfare39 has been often pointed out, but has been practically illustrated40 only in the war between Chili and Peru. It does not seem as if the importance of the lesson had been yet fully41 appreciated by those responsible for the naval administration of the great European powers.
For the remainder of the day, and during the whole59 of the 16th, we lay at anchor about half a mile from the shore of the island of San Lorenzo, a bare rough hill, mainly formed, it would seem, of volcanic42 rock overlaid in places by beds of very modern formation. All naturalists43 are familiar with the evidence adduced by Darwin, proving the considerable elevation45 of the island and the adjacent mainland since the period of the Incas, as well as Tschudi’s arguments going to show that in more recent times there has been a period of subsidence.
BLACK PELICANS48.
Of the objects near at hand the most interesting were the large black pelicans which in great numbers frequent the bay or harbour of Callao, attracted, no doubt, by the offal abundantly supplied from the town and the shipping50. Seemingly indefatigable51 and insatiable, these birds continued for hours to circle in long sweeping52 curves over the water, swooping53 down on any object that attracted their appetite. The body appears to be somewhat slighter than that of the white pelican47 of the East, but the breadth of wing and length of the neck are about the same. When on the wing the plumage appears to be black, but in truth it is of a dark bluish slate54 colour.
Our detention55 in quarantine might have been prolonged but for the fortunate circumstance that the contents of the mail-bags carried by the Islay were at this moment the object of anxious curiosity to the Chilian authorities, and to the representatives of foreign powers. The position of affairs was already sufficiently57 critical, and the attitude recently assumed by the Government of the United States had added a new element of uncertainty58 to the existing difficulties.60 Mr. Hurlbut, the last American representative, had died, and Mr. Trescott, who supplied his place, was ostensibly charged with the attempt to bring about a peace between Chili and Peru, but was supposed to be chiefly intent on extricating59 his Government from a position into which it had been led by a series of proceedings61 which had neither raised the national reputation nor secured the good-will of either Chili or Peru.
While we lay off the harbour, watched day and night by the crew of a launch stationed beside us to prevent communication with the land, we received three successive visits from the officers of the American man-of-war lying in the harbour, who approached near enough to hold conversation with our captain. The message was a request, finally conveyed in somewhat imperious terms, that the dispatches addressed to the American envoy62 should at once be delivered. The American foreign office is not, I believe, accustomed to forward diplomatic dispatches in a separate bag, but merely uses the ordinary post. Our captain properly declined to take the responsibility of opening the mail-bags, which he was bound to deliver intact to the postal63 authorities as soon as we were admitted to pratique. The result was that on Monday, just as we were beginning to be seriously uneasy at the prospect of a long detention, a steam launch was seen to approach, having a number of officials on board. A seemingly interminable conversation between these and the captain and medical officer of our ship finally resulted in a Chilian medical man coming on board to make a careful examination of the ship, the crew,61 and the passengers. After we had been duly marshalled and inspected—the first-class passengers on the spar-deck, the others on the main-deck—the welcome announcement, “Admitted to pratique,” ran through the ship. Not much time was lost in moving up to the proper moorings in the harbour, some two miles distant, and about noon we were set on land close to the custom-house.
LANDING AT CALLAO.
The boatmen, the porters, and the nondescript hangers-on about the quays64 of a port, formed a strange and motley assemblage, in whose countenances65 three very distinct types of humanity—the European, the negro, and the South American Indian—were mingled66 in the most varied67 proportions, scarcely one denoting an unmixed origin. The arrangements at Callao are convenient for strangers. The custom-house officers, though unbribed, gave no trouble, and the rather voluminous luggage of six English passengers was entrusted68 to a man who undertook for ten soles (about thirty-three shillings) to convey the whole to the chief hotel in Lima. No time was left to see anything of Callao. A train was about to start; and in half an hour we were carried over the level space—about seven and a half miles—that separates Lima from the port of Callao.
Occupied by the forces of her victorious69 rival, and shorn of most of the almost fabulous70 wealth that once enriched her inhabitants, Peru can, even in her present ruined state, show a capital city that impresses the stranger. It is true that the buildings have no architectural merit, that most of the streets are horribly ill-paved, and that at present there is little outward62 appearance of wealth in the thoroughfares; in spite of all this the general aspect is novel and pleasing. Although violent earthquakes have rarely occurred in this region, slight shocks are very frequent, and remind the inhabitants that formidable telluric forces are slumbering71 close at hand. Hence, as a rule, the houses have only a single floor above the ground, and cover a proportionately large space. As in Southern Spain, all those of the better class enclose a patio72, or courtyard, partly occupied by tropical trees or flowering shrubs73. Fronting the street, or the plaza75, a long projecting balcony, enclosed with glass, enables the inmates76 to enjoy that refuge from absolute vacancy77 which is afforded by gazing at the passers-by, and which seems to supply the place of occupation to much of the population even in Southern Europe.
With scarcely an exception, the numerous churches are vile78 examples of debased renaissance79 architecture, fronted with stucco ornamentation in great part fallen to decay. Not long before our arrival, I believe under the Chilian administration, they had been all freshly covered with whitewash80, cut into rectangular spaces by broad bands of bright blue. In the streets near the great plaza there was much apparent animation81 during the day; but the shops were closed an hour before nightfall, and after dark the city was hushed into unnatural82 silence. The fair Lime?as, as to whose charms travellers have been eloquent83, and who used to throng84 the public drives and walks towards sunset, were no longer to be seen. To exhibit themselves would be to display indifference85 to the misfortunes of their country. Some might be observed, indeed,63 during the morning hours, plainly dressed in black, going either to church or on some business errand; but they were so closely wrapped up in a manta as to be completely disguised.
CHOICE OF A ROUTE TO THE ANDES.
On landing in Peru, the one question which completely engrossed86 my mind was whether or not it would be possible for me, in the present state of the country, to reach the upper region of the Andes.
To a naturalist44 this great chain must ever be the dominant87 feature of the South American continent. To its structure and its flora and fauna88 are attached questions of overwhelming importance to the past history of our planet, and, however little a man may hope to effect during a flying visit, the desire to gain that degree of acquaintance which actual observation alone can give becomes painfully intense. I was aware that what had formerly89 been a long and rather laborious90 journey had of late years been reduced to a mere excursion by the construction of two lines of railway, leading from the sea-coast to the upper region. That which, if free to choose, I should have preferred starts from the coast at Mollendo, and, passing the important town of Arequipa, traverses the crest91 of the Cordillera, and has its terminus at Puno, on the Lake of Titicaca, in the centre of the plateau which lies between the two main ridges93 of the Andes. The region surrounding this great lake, which here divides Peru from Bolivia, must offer objects of interest only too numerous and too engrossing94 for a traveller whose time is counted by days. Although the level of the lake is some 12,800 feet above the sea, the peaks of Sorata rise above its64 eastern shores to a further height of nearly 10,000 feet; and lake steamers give access to most of the inhabited places on its shores—no slight matter when it is remembered that the lake measures more than a hundred miles in length.
The second line, which, starting from the city of Lima, is carried nearly due east along the valley of the Rimac, was designed to open communication by the most direct route between the capital and the fertile region on the eastern slopes of the Andes—called in Peru the Monta?a—as well as with the rich silver region of Cerro de Pasco. The crest of the Cordillera, or western ridge92 of the Andes, is scarcely eighty miles from Lima in a direct line, but the most practicable pass is somewhat higher than the summit of Mont Blanc. The road was to pierce the pass by a tunnel 15,645 feet above the sea-level, and thence to descend95 to the town of Oroya on the high plateau that divides the two main ridges. As the line was laid out, the distance from Lima to the summit-level was only 97 miles, and that to Oroya 129 miles.
Considered merely as engineering works, these lines, which owe their existence to the enterprise of an American contractor96 and the skill of the engineers who carried out the undertaking97, may fairly be counted among the wonders of the world. The Oroya line, the more difficult of the two, unfortunately remained unfinished. Although the loans contracted in Europe by the Peruvian Government more than sufficed to defray the cost of all the industrial undertakings98 that they were professedly intended to supply, it is scarcely necessary to say that a large portion disappeared65 through underground channels, leaving legitimate99 demands unprovided for. The stipulated100 instalments due to Mr. Meiggs, the great contractor, remained unpaid101, and, in the midst of the difficulties in which he was thus involved, his death put a final stoppage to the works. The line had been completed and opened for a distance of about eighty miles from Lima, as far as the village of Chicla, 12,220 feet above the sea. From that time forward Mr. Meiggs devoted102 his energies to the boring of the tunnel at the summit, probably under the impression that if that were once finished the Peruvian Government could scarcely fail to provide the funds necessary to complete the line on either side.
UNFINISHED ANDEAN RAILWAY.
I had found it impossible to ascertain103 before leaving England what had been the fate of these magnificent works since the ravages104 of war had devastated105 the region through which they are carried. Various quite inconsistent stories had reached me through the passengers from Panama, Guayaquil, and Payta. Traffic, said some, continued on both lines just as before the war; traffic, said others, had been completely stopped by order of the Chilian authorities; others, finally, asserted that the Oroya line had been so damaged by either belligerent106 as to be rendered permanently107 useless.
Before I had been many hours on shore, I was able to get authentic108 information which relieved my mind from further anxiety. The southern line, from Mollendo to Puno, was open; but Arequipa, the chief place on the way, was still in possession of the Peruvians, who occupied it in some force. With permits, to be66 obtained from the commanding officers on both sides, it might be possible to go and return, supposing no fresh outbreak of hostile movements of the troops on either side. The news as to the Oroya line was even more satisfactory. The whole line was occupied by the Chilian forces, there being a detachment at Chicla, with outposts on the farther side of the pass. The line had been for some time closed to traffic, but had been re-opened a few days before our arrival. With a permit, to be obtained from the chief of the staff in Lima, there would be no difficulty in proceeding60 to Chicla.
My decision was speedily taken. Under the most favourable109 circumstances, the time necessary to reach Puno and return to the coast, with the not improbable risk of detention, was more than I could afford. Further than this, as Puno lies on the plateau remote from the mountains, I should see but little of the characteristic flora of the Andes, unless I could reach some place on the eastern shore of the Lake of Titicaca, whence access could be had to the flanks of the Sorata Andes.
Some description of the Lake of Titicaca which I had read as a boy still dwelt in my mind, and the memoirs110 and conversation of the late Mr. Pentland had long made the peaks of Sorata objects of especial interest to me. There could, however, be no doubt that the faint hope of beholding111 them which had lingered till then must be renounced112, and I was too happy at the prospect of achieving a short visit to the more accessible part of the chain to have leisure for any keen regret.
67
DON PATRICIO LYNCH.
Having ascertained113 that the trains to Chicla departed only every second day, returning thence on the alternate days, I arranged to start on the 20th. During the two intermediate days, I had the opportunity of making several agreeable acquaintances. Sir Spencer St. John, the English minister, had lately returned to Europe, and the legation was temporarily under the charge of Mr. J. R. Graham, who had recently acted as chargé d’affaires in Guatemala. Among other kind attentions which I have to acknowledge, Mr. Graham was good enough to introduce me to Don Patricio Lynch, commander-in-chief of the Chilian forces in Peru.
The object of boundless114 admiration115 from his own followers116, and of still more unmeasured denunciation from his enemies, General Lynch is undoubtedly117 the most remarkable man who has come to the front during the late unhappy war in South America. Like most of the men who have acquired military renown118 in that part of the world, he is of Irish extraction, his grandfather having settled in Chili early in the present century. Having served as a young man for a time in the English navy, he was promoted by the Chilian Government, some time after the outbreak of the war, to a naval command. The operations at sea had, up to that time, been on the whole unfavourable to Chili, and the successes which finally changed the aspect of the war by sea were largely ascribed to the energy and ability of Admiral Lynch. Passing from the sea to the land, he so much distinguished119 himself in various daring encounters with the enemy that he was finally promoted to the chief command of the Chilian68 forces in Peru, and at this time was virtually dictator, with absolute rule over the whole coast region occupied by the Chilian army.
However open to discussion might be the policy adopted by the Chilians towards the conquered country, there was a general agreement as to one matter of no slight importance. The population of Lima and the surrounding districts is composed of the most varied constituents—native Indian, negro, and the mongrel offspring of the intermixture of these with European blood, to all which of late years has been added a large contingent120 of Chinese immigrants. It is not surprising that, under inefficient121 administration, there should have arisen from the dregs of such a population a large class either actually living by crime or ready to resort to outrage122 as favourable opportunities might arise. On the other hand, the Chilian army, for which there was but a small nucleus123 of regular troops, had to be largely recruited from among the loose fish of the floating population of South America, and naturally included no small number of bad subjects, ready to make the utmost use of the license124 of war. For many years past the police of Lima was notoriously inefficient; robberies were frequent, and there were many spots in the neighbourhood of the city where it was considered unsafe to go unarmed even in broad daylight. It was not unreasonably125 feared that in such conditions the occupation of the city by the Chilians would have results disastrous126 for the safety of the numerous foreign residents and the peaceful citizens. It was through the energy and capacity of General Lynch69 that the apprehended127 reign56 of disorder128 was averted129. An efficient police was at once established, speedy capital punishment was awarded in every case of serious outrage, and with stern impartiality130 a short shrift was allotted131 alike to the Peruvian marauder and the looter wearing Chilian uniform. It was admitted on all hands that the city had never before been so safe, while, at the same time, the ordinary municipal work of cleansing132, watering, and lighting133 the streets and public places had been visibly improved under the stimulus134 of vigorous administration.
ORDER ESTABLISHED IN LIMA.
My reception by the Chilian general was all that I could desire. He at once expressed his readiness to assist my objects in every way, and carried out his promise by giving me a letter to the officer commanding the detachment at Chicla, with instructions to provide horses and guides and all needful protection for myself and my companion. I failed to detect in General Lynch any of the characteristics, usually so persistent135, of men of Irish descent. The stately courtesy and serious expression, reminding one of the bearing of a Castilian gentleman, were not enlivened by the irrepressible touches of liveliness that involuntarily relieve even a careworn136 Irishman from the pressure of his environment. One particularity in the arrangements at head-quarters struck me as singular; but I afterwards understood that it was merely the transference to Peru of the ordinary habits of Chili. The head-quarters of the general were fixed137 in the former palace of the Spanish viceroys. A sentry138 in the street paid no attention as, in company with Mr. Graham, I entered the first court, and it appeared70 that every one, or, at least, every decently dressed stranger, was free to pass. Through an open door we entered the first of a suite139 of large rooms, and advanced from one to another without encountering a human being, whether guard or attendant, until in the last room but one, seemingly by accident, a secretary presented himself, who at once ushered140 us into the cabinet of the general. In the case of any public man in Europe, to say nothing of the chief of an army of occupation constantly assailed141 by the fiercest denunciations, and left thus easy of access, some fanatic142 or madman would speedily translate the popular hatred143 into grim deed.
Among the acquaintances made in Lima, I must mention the name of Mr. William Nation, a gentleman who, amidst many difficulties, has acquired an extensive knowledge of the fauna and flora of Peru, and has observed with attention many facts of interest connected with the natural history of the country. After my return from Chicla, Mr. Nation was kind enough to accompany me in two short excursions in the neighbourhood of the city, and I am further indebted to him for much valuable assistance and information.
Soon after eight a.m. on the morning of April 20, I started from the railway station at Lima, in company with my friend W——, who was fortunately able to absent himself for some days. The country lying between the coast and the foot of the Cordillera appears to the eye a horizontal plain, but is, in fact, a slope inclining towards the sea, and rising very uniformly about seventy feet per mile.6 This ancient71 sea-bottom extends for a distance of fully fifteen miles from Lima into the valley of the Rimac, which, in approaching the coast, gradually spreads out from a narrow gorge144 to a wide valley with a flat floor. At the same time the river gradually dwindles145 from a copious146 rushing torrent147 to a meagre stream, running in many shallow channels over a broad stony148 bed, until it is finally almost lost in the marshes149 near Callao. Its waters are consumed by the numerous irrigation channels; for it must be remembered that along the western side of the continent, for a distance of nearly thirty degrees of latitude150, cultivation151 is confined to those tracts152 which can be irrigated153 by streams from the Andes. Keeping pretty near to the left bank of the Rimac, the railway runs between two detached hills, formerly islands when the sea stood a few hundred feet above its present level. That on the north side is called the Amancais, and another less extensive mass rises south of the river.
WINTER VEGETATION NEAR LIMA.
Throughout the greater part of the year these hills, as well as the lower slopes of the Cordillera, appear, as they did to me, absolutely bare of vegetation; but in winter, from June to September, slight showers of rain are not unfrequent, and the fogs, denser154 than in other seasons, rest more constantly on the hills, and doubtless deposit abundant night-dews on the surface. The seeds and bulbs and rhizomes awake from their long sleep, and in a few days the slopes are covered with a brilliant carpet, in which bright flowers of various species follow each other in rapid succession.
Alongside of the railway runs a broad road covered to a depth of a couple of feet with volcanic sand, with72 occasional loose blocks of stone. The struggles of the few laden156 animals that we saw in passing, as they toiled157 along this weary track under a scorching158 sun, suggested a thought of the wonderful changes which modern inventions have already effected, and are destined159 to effect in the future, throughout every part of the world. The track before our eyes was, until the other day, the sole line of direct communication between Lima and the interior of Peru. The passage of men and animals had in the course of centuries reduced the original stony surface to a river of fine sand, and by no better mode of transport had the treasures of Cerro de Pasco, and the other rich silver deposits of the same region, been carried to the coast to sap the manhood and energy of the Spanish settlers in Peru, and help to achieve the same result in the mother country.
The American railway car, which is not without its drawbacks for ordinary travellers, is admirably suited to a naturalist in a new country. No time is lost in opening and shutting doors. Standing160 ready on the platform, one jumps off at every stoppage of the train, and jumps up again without delay or hindrance161. I was able to appreciate these advantages during this day, and to add considerably162 to my collections by turning every moment to account. At first the vegetation was, of course, extremely scanty163; but I was interested by finding here some representatives of genera that extend to the hotter and drier parts of the Mediterranean164 region, such as Boerhavia and Lippia.
Not far beyond the station of Santa Clara, near to73 which is a large sugar-plantation, the slopes on either side of the valley become more continuous, and gradually approach nearer together. The first trace of vegetation visible from a distance was shown by one of the cactus165 tribe, probably a Cereus, and as we ascended167 I was able to distinguish two other species of the same family.
VEGETATION OF THE RIMAC VALLEY.
At many points in the valley, always on slightly rising ground, shapeless inequalities of the surface marked with their rough outline all that now remains168 of the numerous villages that in the days of the Incas were scattered169 at short intervals171.
As we advanced, the slopes on either side became higher and steeper, but were still apparently nearly bare of vegetation until we reached Chosica, about twenty-six miles from Lima, 2800 feet above the sea. At this place it was formerly the custom to halt for breakfast, but since the line has been re-opened, the only eatables to be found are the fruits, chiefly bananas and granadillas, which Indian women offer to the passengers.
Henceforward the line is fairly enclosed between the slopes on either hand, everywhere rough and steep, but, as is the nature of volcanic rocks, nowhere cut into precipices172. The gradient becomes perceptibly steeper, being about one in thirty-three in the space between Chosica and San Bartolomé—about thirteen miles. Here the change of climate begins to be distinctly marked. It is evident that during a great part of the year the declivities are covered with vegetation, though now brown from drought, and they show the occasional action of running water in deep furrows74 and ravines. Here the engineers engaged on the railway first confronted the serious difficulties of the undertaking. Following the line from San Bartolomé to Chicla, the distance is only thirty-four miles, but the difference of level is 7317 feet, and the fifty-one miles between this and the summit-tunnel involve an ascent174 of 10,740 feet. The gradient is very uniform, never, I believe, exceeding one in twenty-six, the average being about one in twenty-eight. Some of the expedients176 adopted appear simple enough, though quite effectual for the intended purpose. Very steep uniform slopes have been ascended by zigzags177, in which the train is alternately dragged by the locomotive in front, and then (the motion being reversed), shoved up the next incline with the engine in the rear. In one place I observed that we passed five times, always at a different level, above the same point in the valley below.
Among the more remarkable works on the line are the viaducts by which deep and broad ravines cut in the friable178 volcanic rocks have been spanned. The iron beams and girders that sustain these structures appear much slighter than I have seen used in Europe. In crossing one barranca, on what is said to be the loftiest viaduct in the world, I stood on the platform at the end of the car: there being no continuous roadway, the eye plunged179 directly down into the chasm180 below, over which we seemed to be travelling on a spider’s web.
For a distance of about eight miles from San Bartolomé the railway keeps near to the bottom of the valley, between slopes whereon a distinct green hue75 is now visible, and some trickling182 rivulets183 are perceived in the channels of the ravines. On the opposite, or northern, slope are still distinctly seen the terraces by which in ancient days the industrious184 Indian population carried cultivation up the precipitous slopes to a height of more than fifteen hundred feet above the bed of the valley. For in this land, before the Spaniard destroyed its simple civilization and reduced the larger part to a wilderness185, the pressure of population was felt as it now is in the southern valleys of the Alps. The fact that terrace cultivation commenced precisely186 in the part of the valley where we now find streamlets from the flanks of the high mountains above, which might be used for partial irrigation, tends to show that no considerable change of climate has occurred.
ANCIENT INDIAN TERRACES.
Before reaching the Surco station (forty-eight miles from Lima, and 6655 feet above the sea) the road finally abandons the Rimac, and commences the seemingly formidable ascent of the declivity187 above the left bank. For some distance a projecting buttress188 with a moderate slope enabled the engineers to accomplish the ascent by long winding189 curves; but before long we reached the first zigzags, which are frequently repeated during the remainder of the ascent. The tunnels are frequent, but fortunately for the most part short, as the rate of travelling is necessarily slow, and the artificial fuel used gives out black fumes190 of a stifling191 character. A further change of climate, welcome to the botanist192, was now very obvious. Although the soil appears to be parched193, it is clear that some slight rain must recur76 at moderate intervals. Vegetation, if not luxuriant, finds the needful conditions, and in the gardens of Surco tropical fruits, such as bananas, cherimolias, oranges, and granadillas, are cultivated with tolerable success. Of the indigenous195 plants in flower at this season the large majority were Composit?, chiefly belonging to the sun-flower tribe (Heliantho?de?), a group characteristic of the New World.7 It was tantalizing196 to see so many new forms of vegetation pass before one’s eyes untouched. Most of them were indeed finally captured, but several yet remain as fleeting197 images in my memory, never fixed by closer observation.
About one p.m. we reached the chief village of the valley, San Juan de Matucana, fifty-five miles from Lima, and about 7800 feet above the sea. The train halted here for twenty minutes, and we discovered that very tolerable food is to be had at a little inn kept by an Italian. Hunger having been already stilled, the time was available for botanizing in the neighbourhood of the station, and, along with several cosmopolite weeds which we are used to call European, I found a good many types not before seen. Owing to the accident of having left my gloves in the carriage, I unwisely postponed198 to collect one plant not seen by me again during my stay in Peru. This was a small species of Tupa, a genus now united to Lobelia, with flowers of a lurid199 purple colour, which is said to have77 the singular effect of producing temporary blindness in those who handle the foliage200, and I had been assured by Mr. Nation that he had verified the statement by experiment.8 We were here in the intermediate zone, wherein many species of the subtropical region are mingled with those characteristic of the Andean flora. Hitherto the most prevalent families, after the Composit?, had been the Solanace? and Malvace?. These have many representatives in the Andean flora, but henceforward were associated with an increasing proportion of types of many different orders.
ASCENT FROM MATUCANA.
As we continued the ascent in the afternoon our locomotive began to show itself unequal to the heavy work of the long-continued ascent, whether owing to defects in construction or, as seemed more probable, to the bad quality of the fuel supplied. Two stoppages occurred, required, as we learned, to clear out tubes. A considerable ascent was then achieved by a detour201 into a lateral202 valley above Matucana, returning to the Rimac at a much higher level, as is done on the Brenner line between Gossensass and Schelleberg.
Up to this time the scenery had fallen much below my anticipations203. Owing to the nature of the rocks, there was an utter deficiency in that variety of colour and form that are essential elements in the beauty of mountain scenery. A still greater defect is the entire absence of forest. Along the course of the Rimac bushes or small trees, such as Schinus molle, two Acacias, Salix Humboldtiana, and others, are tolerably frequent; but on the rugged204 surface of the mountain78 slopes nothing met the eye more conspicuous205 than the columnar stem of a cactus, or dense155 rigid206 tufts of what I took to be a Bromeliaceous plant, most probably a species of Puya. The sun had set, and darkness was fast closing round us when the train came suddenly to a standstill, and the intelligent American guard informed us that a delay of at least twenty minutes was required to set the locomotive in working order.
The accident was in every way fortunate. We had just reached the Puente Infernillo, by far the most striking scene on the whole route, rendered doubly impressive when seen by the rapidly fading light. The railway had here returned to the Rimac, and is carried for a short distance along the right bank. In front the river rushes out of a narrow cleft207, while on either hand the mountains rise to a prodigious208 height, with a steeper declivity than we had as yet anywhere seen. With a lively recollection of the Via Mala, the gorge of Pfeffers, and other scenes of a similar character, I could bring to mind none to rival this for stern sublimity209. The impassable chasm that seemed to defy further advance, the roar of the river in the deeply cut channel below, the impending210 masses that towered up above us, leaving but a strip of sky in view, combined to form such a representation of the jaws211 of hell as would have satisfied the imagination of the Tuscan poet. To a botanist the scene awoke very different associations. Before it became quite dark I had captured several outposts of the Andean flora, not hitherto seen. The beautiful Trop?olum tuberosum, with masses of flowers smaller,79 but even more brilliant, than those of the common garden species, climbed over the bushes. A fleshy-leaved Oxalis, the first seen of a numerous group, came out of the crevices212 of the adjoining rocks, and Alonsoa acutifolia, which I had never seen but in an English greenhouse, was an additional prize.
ASCENT FROM PUENTE INFERNILLO.
Night had completely fallen as we resumed our journey, and although my curiosity was much excited in the attempt to follow the course of the line, I utterly213 failed to do so. Watching the stars as guides to our direction, where these were not cut off by the frequent tunnels, I could only infer that we were constantly winding round sharp curves, at times near the bottom of a deep ravine, with the roar of a torrent close at hand, and soon after working at a dizzy height along the verge214 of a precipice173, with the muffled215 bass216 of a waterfall heard from out of the depths. Even after I had travelled the reverse way in broad daylight, I remained in some doubt as to the real structure of this part of the line. So far as I know, the first application of a spiral tunnel in railway construction was on the line across the Apennine between Bologna and Florence, but the spiral is there but a semicircle; you enter it facing north, and emerge in the opposite direction at a higher level. A similar device has been more freely resorted to in the construction of the St. Gothard line; but on this part of the Oroya line, completed before that of the St. Gothard was commenced, the spiral, if I mistake not, includes two complete circles, at the end of which the train stands nearly vertically217 above the point from which it started. It is by no means altogether a tunnel, as the form of80 a great projecting buttress has allowed the line to be carried in great part along a spiral line traced upon its flanks.
Nearly two hours after sunset we at length reached the terminus at Chicla, very uncertain as to the resources of that place in point of shelter and food. We had had the pleasure of meeting in the train Mr. H——, a distinguished German statesman, who had travelled with us in the Islay on his way from California to make the tour of South America. He was accompanied by Baron218 von Zoden, the German minister at Lima. As their object was merely to see the railway line, they intended to return on the following morning; but meanwhile we resolved to confront together any difficulties that might arise.
The architecture of Chicla is remarkably219 uniform, the only differences being in the size of the edifices220. Stone, brick, tiles, slate, and mortar221 are alike unknown. Planks222 are nailed together around a framework, the requisite223 number of pieces of corrugated224 iron are nailed to some rafters on the top, and the house is complete. After stepping from the railway car and scrambling225 up a steep bank, we found ourselves before the chief building of the place, a so-called hotel, kept by a worthy26 German whose ill fortune had placed him on the borderland, where for some time the place was alternately occupied by small parties of Chilian or Peruvian troops. Besides some rooms on an upper floor occupied by the people of the house, the hotel consisted of two large rooms on the ground floor, where food and drink were supplied to all comers, with an adjoining kitchen. For such81 fastidious travellers as might require further sleeping accommodation than a cloak in which to roll themselves, and a floor on which to stretch their limbs, a long adjoining shed was provided. This was divided by thin partitions into four or five small chambers226, each capable of holding two beds. Supper was before long provided; and when we afterwards learned the difficulties of our host’s position, our surprise was excited more by the merits than by the defects of the entertainment.
MOUNTAIN-SICKNESS.
We had been assured at Lima that, on going up to Chicla, we should be sure to suffer from the soroche, by which name the people of South America denote mountain-sickness, familiar to those who ascend166 from the coast to the plateau of the Andes. Knowing the height of Chicla to be no more than 12,220 feet above the sea, and never having experienced any of the usual symptoms at greater heights in Europe, I had treated the warning with derision so far as I was personally concerned, though not sure what effect the diminished pressure might have on my companion. I have described elsewhere9 my experience at Chicla, which undoubtedly resulted from a mitigated227 form of mountain-sickness, the symptoms being felt only at night, and passing away by day and in exercise. They were confined to the first two nights, and after the third day, during which we ascended to a height of more than two thousand feet above Chicla, they completely disappeared.
With regard to mountain-sickness, the only matter for surprise, as it seems to me, is that it is not more82 frequently felt at lower elevations228, and that the human economy is able so readily to adapt itself to the altered conditions when transferred to an atmosphere of say two-thirds of the ordinary density229, where the diminished supply to the lungs is aggravated230 by the increased mechanical effort requisite to move the limbs, and raise the weight of the body in an attenuated231 medium. Observation shows that the effects actually produced at great heights vary much with different individuals, and that in healthy subjects the functions after a short time adapt themselves to the new conditions. It is obvious that this process must have a limit, which has probably been very nearly attained232 in some cases.
In spite of some statements lately published, I am inclined to believe that the utmost limit of height compatible with active exertion233 will be found to lie, according to individual constitution, between twenty and twenty-five thousand feet. As regards our experiences at Chicla, the difficulty is to account for the fact that the effects produced while the body is at rest should disappear during active exercise; and whatever the nature of the disturbance234 of the functions, this was not accompanied by any discernible derangement235 of the respiration236 or the circulation. It appeared to me that the seat of disturbance, such as it was, was limited to the nervous system.
On the evening of our arrival we met at the hotel the commandant of the Chilian detachment, and on presenting my letter from the commander-in-chief, he was profuse237 in offers of assistance. It was speedily arranged that we should start on the following morning,83 to ride as far as the tunnel at the summit of the pass to Oroya, where I promised myself an ample harvest among the plants of the higher region of the Andes. When morning broke, after a sleepless238 night with a splitting headache, I found or fancied myself unfit for a hard day’s work; and, my companion being in much the same plight239, we sent at an early hour to request that the excursion should be postponed till the following day. By the time, however, that we had dressed and breakfasted, the troubles of the night were all forgotten. A new vegetable world was outside awaiting us, and we were soon on the slopes above the station, where, in the person of my friend W——, I had the advantage of a kind and zealous240 assistant in the work of plant-collecting.
FIRST DAY IN THE ANDES.
Deferring241 to a later page some remarks on the vegetation of the Cordillera, I need merely say that of this first delightful242 day the morning hours were devoted to the steep declivity of the mountain overhanging the left bank of the stream, while the afternoon was given to the less precipitous but more broken and irregular slopes on the opposite, or right, bank.
Having soon made the discovery that the supplies at Chicla were very limited, we had taken measures to procure243 a few creature comforts through the obliging conductor of the train, which left Chicla, in the morning, and was to return from Lima on the following evening. A far more serious deficiency was at the same time apparent. I had quite underrated the quantity of paper required to dry the harvest of specimens245 that I was sure to collect here, and no one but a botanist can measure the intensity84 of distress246 with which I viewed the prospect of losing precious specimens, and seeing shapes of beauty converted into repulsive247 masses of corruption248, for want of the material necessary for their preservation249. I addressed an urgent note to Mr. Nation, on whose sympathy as a brother naturalist I could safely count, telling him that unless I could find two reams of suitable drying-paper on my return, I should infallibly require accommodation in a lunatic asylum250 at Lima.
The scenery at Chicla is wild, but neither very beautiful nor very imposing251. As in the lower valley of the Rimac, the slopes of the mountains are steep, but the summits are deficient252 in boldness and variety of form. Those lying on the watershed253 of the Cordillera, at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles, apparently range from seventeen to eighteen thousand feet in height, and on the first day of our visit showed but occasional streaks254 and patches of snow, while the sombre tints255 of the rocks exhibited little variety of hue181 even in the brightest sunshine.
Although the stream at Chicla is the main branch of the Rimac, its volume is here much reduced, not having yet received the numerous tributaries256 that fall into it between this place and Matucana. It is here no more than a brawling257 torrent, swelling259 rapidly after even a very moderate fall of rain, but prevented from ever dwindling260 very low by the snows, of which some patches at least remain at all seasons on the upper summits of the Cordillera. In a country without wood, and where the art of building in stone had made little progress, one of the most serious obstacles to any advance in civilization must have arisen from85 the difficulty of crossing the streams by which the upper ranges of the Andes are everywhere intersected.
ANDEAN SUSPENSION BRIDGES.
The art of constructing suspension bridges must have originated in the subtropical zone of Eastern Peru, where the abundance of climbing plants with long, flexible, tough stems supplied the requisite materials. These, being light and easily transported, were everywhere used in the valleys of the Andes to sustain hanging bridges, of which the roadway was formed of rough basket-work. The only change that has resulted from the introduction of European arts is that of late years iron wire is used instead of flexible lianes to sustain the bridges; but the roadway is still made of basket-work, which is rapidly worn by the feet of passing men and animals, and the natives have a disagreeable habit of stopping up the holes, not by mending the basket-work where this has begun to give way, but by laying a flat stone over the weak place. Being very slight and not nicely adjusted, these bridges swing to and fro under the feet of a passenger to an extent that is at first rather startling, but, as in everything else, habit soon makes one indifferent. Our first experience this afternoon was very easy, as the bridge connecting the station with the pueblo261, or village of Chicla, was new and more solid than usual.
The little village, altogether composed of frail262 sheds, was occupied by the Chilian detachment of about two hundred men, posted here to guard the railway line. Four houses, larger than the rest, wherein the officers had established themselves, were adorned264 with conspicuous painted inscriptions265 worthy86 of the hotels of a great city. The Fonda del Universo informed the public that it contained “apartamentos para familias,” and the rival establishments were no way inferior in the stateliness of their titles and the inducements offered. It must be recollected266 that Chicla is the first halting-place on the main, almost the only, line of communication between the coast and a magnificent region, as large as England, and teeming267 with natural resources—the monta?a of Central Peru. Before the war the hostelries of Chicla were often crowded, and the accommodation doubtless appeared sumptuous268 to the wearied travellers who had been contending with the hardships of the journey from the interior, and the passage of the double range of the Andes.
I have already said that the supplies at our hotel were somewhat scanty. Inquiries269 for eggs were met by the reply that the Chilian soldiers had killed all the poultry270, and milk was not to be thought of, because the cows had all been driven to a distance to save them from the Chilians. But these were only trifling271 inconveniences. The experience of our German landlord was full of graver matter. A foreigner in the interior of Peru during this abominable272 war is placed between the devil and the deep sea. Having no one to protect him, his property is at the mercy of lawless soldiery; he is an object of suspicion to both parties, and his life is in constant peril273. Our host owed to a fortunate accident that he had not been shot by a Peruvian party under the suspicion of having given information to the enemy. He was certainly no lover of the invader274; but, like every87 foreigner in Peru, he looked forward with undisguised dread275 to the day when the Chilians should depart.
THE CONDOR276 AS OFFICER OF HEALTH.
If one had not recollected how very slowly and imperfectly the elementary rules of health have made way in Europe, it would have been hard to understand how men of education and intelligence, such as the great majority of the Chilian officers, should neglect the simplest precautions for preserving the health of themselves and their men. We had heard that the troops at Chicla had lost many men owing to a severe outbreak of typhoid fever, though the disease had recently almost disappeared. The cause was not far to seek. The ground all around the village was thickly strewn with the remains of the numerous baggage animals that had fallen from overwork, and the beasts that had been slaughtered278 by the soldiers. In South America the only sanitary279 officials are the carrion280-eating birds. Near the coast the removal of offal is chiefly accomplished281 by the gallinazo, a large black vulture; in the Andes the condor takes charge of all carrion, and travels far in quest of it. It is likely that in the noisy neighbourhood of a detachment of soldiers the birds were shy of approach. If the remains had been dragged a short distance away from the village, they would have been quickly disposed of. As it was, the carcases were allowed to accumulate close to the sheds in which the men were lodged282 until they bred a pestilence283. Things were mended, they said, at the time of our visit, yet, warned by vile emanations, I found the carcase of a horse lying close beside the baraque in which we slept; and it was only after energetic remonstrances284 that I succeeded in88 having it removed to some distance, where, doubtless, the condors285 made a savoury meal.
We were not curious to inquire too particularly what animal had supplied the material for our evening repast. It was enough that the skill of the Chinese boy who acted as cook had converted it into a very eatable dish. The work of the establishment seemed to be conducted altogether by two boys—the Chinese cook and a young German who acted as waiter. It was curious to notice that the intercourse286 between the two was carried on in English, or what passed as such. On many another occasion during my journey I observed the same thing. Throughout America, and I believe that the same is true in most countries out of Europe, English has become the lingua franca, the general medium of communication between people of different nationalities.
Having felt perfectly277 well all day, and inclined to believe that the discomforts287 of the previous night had arisen from some accidental cause, we had no hesitation288 in renewing the arrangement for an excursion to the Tunnel en la cima, and the Chilian commandant readily promised to send two horses, with a soldier who was to act as guide and escort, at seven o’clock on the following morning. Rather late, after some hours’ work in laying out the plants collected during the day, I lay down to sleep, but in a short time awoke with a severe headache, accompanied by ineffectual nausea289, the light supper being already digested. It was an undoubted case of mountain-sickness, which had to be borne through the sleepless dark hours until daylight summoned us to rise. As on the previous89 day, the operations of washing and dressing290 chased away the symptoms, and before seven o’clock we were ready to start. At half-past seven we began to lose patience, and despatched a messenger to ascertain the cause of delay. No answer coming, we resolved to go in quest of the promised steeds, and, shouldering the impedimenta, proceeded across the stream to the pueblo. We soon discovered that no order had been given the night before, and that the commandant had not yet made his appearance. The messenger had not ventured to awake him, and thought it safest to await events. Having discovered the high-sounding name of the “hotel” where he lodged, I lost no time in proceeding to the double-bedded room shared by our commander with a brother officer, and rousing them both from sleep. Profuse excuses in excellent Spanish, with a promise that not a moment should be lost, were but a poor salve for my growing impatience292, though policy required some faint effort at politeness, which had to be maintained through what seemed intolerable and interminable delays, until we at last got under way at ten o’clock.
NATIVE INDOLENCE.
It was indeed aggravating293 to find an excursion, to accomplish which any naturalist would gladly traverse an ocean, maimed and curtailed294 by the indolence which is the curse of the American Spaniard. One circumstance, indeed, helped to moderate the keenness of my disappointment. Rather heavy rain had fallen throughout the night, and the mountains about the head of the valley, previously295 almost clear of snow, were now covered pretty deep down to the level of about fifteen thousand feet. I already judged that it90 would be difficult, starting so late, to reach the summit tunnel, if sufficient time were to be reserved for botanizing. With snow on the ground the vegetation would be concealed296, and the chief interest of the expedition lost, so that I readily made up my mind that we should not attempt to reach the summit of the pass.
We had not gone far on the track when we came to a suspension bridge, over which our soldier-guide rode as a matter of course. Seeing the frail structure swing to and fro under the horse’s feet, I confess that I felt much inclined to dismount and cross on foot; but in such cases one remembers that whatever men or animals are accustomed to do they are sure to do safely, and I rode on, admiring the judgment297 with which my horse avoided the weak places in the basket-work under his feet.
The track is well beaten, and in easy places broad and even; but here and there, where it climbs over some projecting buttress of rock, is rather rougher and steeper than I have ever seen elsewhere in mountain countries on a path intended for horsemen, excepting, perhaps, some choice spots in the Great Atlas298. It was impossible to push on rapidly, for we overtook a succession of long trains of baggage-animals—mules299, donkeys, and llamas—moving towards the interior at a rate of little over two miles an hour. As it was only in favourable places that it was possible to pass, our patience went through many severe trials.
At about thirteen thousand feet above the sea we passed two farmhouses301, evidently constructed by European settlers, plain but neat in appearance, and91 the fields better kept than one could have expected in a spot so remote, each with a clump302 of well-grown trees of the Peruvian elder. Higher up the scenery was constantly wilder, desolate303 rather than grand, and with no trace of the presence of man until we reached Casapalta, a small group of poor sheds now occupied by an outpost of Chilian soldiers, nearly fourteen thousand feet above the sea.
ALPINE304 REGION IN THE ANDES.
We had now evidently reached the true Alpine region. At the head of the valley in front fresh snow lay on the flanks of the mountains where the dark rugged masses of volcanic rock were not too steep to allow it to rest, and the higher summits in the background were completely covered. The slopes near at hand were carpeted with dwarf305 plants thickly set, rising only a few inches from the surface. The only exception was an erect306 spiny307 bush, growing about eighteen inches high, with dark orange flowers, one of the characteristic Andean forms—Chuquiraga spinosa.
The guide seemed disposed to halt here, but we had not yet reached our goal, and we pushed on for about three miles, to a point about 14,400 feet in height, where it seemed judicious308 to call a halt. For some time the horses had begun to show symptoms of distress. The spirited animal which I rode panted heavily in ascending309 the gentle slope, and at last was forced to stop and gasp310 for breath every thirty or forty yards. Near at hand a slender stream had cut a channel through some rough rocks, and promised a harvest of moisture-loving Alpine plants; and opposite to us, on the northern side of92 the valley, a wild glen opened up a vista311 of snow-covered summits, of which the more distant appeared to reach a height of about eighteen thousand feet.
It was now about one o’clock, and, our light early breakfast being long since forgotten, we hastily swallowed our provision of sandwiches formed of the contents of a sardine-box, which, flavoured with the pure cold water of the stream, seemed delicious. Although the sun which had shone upon us during the morning was now covered with clouds, and we were very lightly dressed, no sensation of cold was felt at this height, and I do not believe that the thermometer at any time during the day fell below 50°. Doubtless the feverish312 excitement of those unique two hours of botanizing in a new world left no space for sensitiveness to other influences. The mountain-sickness of the previous night was utterly forgotten, and no sensation of inconvenience was felt during the day.
Reserving some remarks on the botany of this excursion, there is yet to be mentioned here one plant of the upper region so singular that it must attract the notice of every traveller. As we ascended from Casapalta we noticed patches of white which from a distance looked like snow. Seen nearer at hand, they had the appearance of large, rounded, flattened313 cushions, some five or six feet in diameter, and a foot high, covered with dense masses of floss silk that glistened314 with a silvery lustre315. The unwary stranger who should be tempted316 to use one of these for a seat would suffer from the experiment. The plant is of the cactus family, and the silky covering93 conceals317 a host of long, slender, needle-like spines318, that penetrate319 the flesh, easily break, and are most difficult to extract. Unfortunately, the living specimen244 which I sent to Kew did not survive the journey.
THE CONDOR AT HOME.
At about three o’clock it was necessary to think of returning. Several precious plants had been passed on the way and remained to be collected, and it was only prudent320 to return to our quarters before night, which here falls so abruptly321. Soon after we started along the descending322 track, a whirring sound overhead caused us to look up. Two magnificent condors swooped323 down from the upper region, and, wheeling round about forty feet above our heads, described a half circle, and, having satisfied their curiosity, soared again to a vast height, till they seemed mere black specks324 in the sky. Meanwhile my horse, fresh after the long halt, and apparently delighted at the prospect of returning to pleasanter quarters, broke into a gallop325, and throughout the way it cost me some trouble to restrain his impatience.
As we drew near Chicla, there being yet half an hour of daylight, we dismounted and dismissed our guide with the horses, thus being able to secure several plants not seen elsewhere. One of these was a solitary326 plant of the common potato, growing in a wild place among dwarf bushes near the stream. I do not, however, attach any importance to the fact as evidence on the disputed question of the true home of a plant which in South America has been cultivated from remote antiquity327. The valley of the Rimac has doubtless been a frequented highway since long before the Spanish conquest, and, as we know,94 the plant spreads easily in favourable conditions. As far as I know, all the evidence as to the plant being indigenous in Peru and Bolivia is open to suspicion, and the only part of the continent where it can be said to be certainly a native is Southern Chili and the sub-Alpine region of the Chilian Andes.
The excursion to the upper region apparently completed the work of acclimatization. We slept soundly, and no symptoms of soroche was afterwards experienced. When I sallied forth328 on the morning of the 23rd in quest of breakfast, which was made luxurious329 by a tin of Swiss milk received by the train from Lima, I found my friend W—— conversing330 in English with a Chilian officer. This gentleman, introduced as Captain B——, the son of English parents, was about proceeding in command of a small detachment to occupy some place beyond the Cordillera. The number of Englishmen in the Chilian service is not small, and there is no part of South America where the conditions of climate, the habits of life, and the character of the people seem to be so well suited to our countrymen.
One of the sights of Chicla was the daily despatch291 of trains of laden animals towards the interior. In the opposite direction the traffic was very limited, for since the war the working of the silver mines about Cerro de Pasco has been suspended, and little of the produce of the monta?a now makes its way to the coast. But, war or no war, the wants of the inland population, living in a region which produces nothing but food and raw material, must in some measure be supplied. There was nothing very new in seeing95 goods packed on the backs of mules and donkeys, but the llamas and their ways were a continual source of interest. If the body be somewhat ungainly, the head with its large lustrous331 eyes may fairly be called beautiful. They vary extremely in colour. The prevailing332 hues333 are between light brown and buff, but we saw many quite white, and a few nearly black, with a good many mottled in large patches of white, and dark brown. The legs appear weak, and the animal can bear but a light burthen. On the mountain tracks, the load for a mule300 is three hundred pounds, that for a donkey two hundred pounds, while a llama can carry no more than a hundred pounds; and when any one attempts to increase the load, the animal lies down and moans piteously. He seems, indeed, not yet thoroughly334 resigned to domesticity, and there is a note of ineffectual complaint about his bearing and about all the sounds which he emits. One morning I was so much struck by what appeared to be the wailing335 of a child or a woman in distress, that I followed the sound until, behind a rock, I discovered a solitary llama that had somehow been separated from his companions. The advantage of the llama in the highlands of Peru, where fodder336 is scarce and must often be carried from a distance, is that he is able to shift for himself. Where the herbage is so coarse and so scanty that a donkey would starve, the llama picks up a living from the woody stems of the dwarf bushes that creep along the surface.
HABITS OF THE LLAMA.
Supposing that most of the plants growing on the slopes around Chicla had been collected two days before, I expected to find it expedient175 to go to some96 distance from the village on the 23rd. But I had formed an inadequate337 idea of the richness of the Andean flora. Commencing with a ridge of rocks on the opposite side of the valley, only a few hundred yards from the ground before traversed, I found so many new and interesting forms of vegetation that at the end of three or four hours of steady work I had ascended only four or five hundred feet above the village, and I believe that ample occupation for a week’s work to a collector might be found within one mile of the Chicla station.
As already arranged, we decided338 to return to Lima on the morning of the 24th of April. If other engagements had not made this necessary, the condition of my collections would have forced me to retreat. It was certain that without a speedy supply of drying-paper a large portion must be lost. As we were despatching an early breakfast, we were struck by the appearance of a tall, vigorous, resolute339-looking man, booted up to the thighs340, who had arrived during the previous night. He turned out to be a fellow-countryman, one of that adventurous341 class that have supplied the pioneers of civilization to so many regions of the earth. This gentleman had settled in the monta?a of Eastern Peru, at a height of only about four thousand feet above the sea. His account of the country was altogether attractive, and it was only after entering into some details that one began to think that a man of a less cheerful and enterprising disposition342 might have given a less favourable report. The place which he has selected is only some twenty leagues distant from the river Ucayali, one of the great tributaries of97 the Maranon, which is destined hereafter to be the channel for direct water-communication between Eastern Peru and the Atlantic coast. At present the only obstacle to communication is the fact that the country near the river is occupied by a tribe of fierce and hostile Indians, who allow no passage through their country. The climate was described by our informant as quite delightful and salubrious, the soil as most fertile, suitable for almost all tropical produce, and many of the plants of temperate regions, and the supposed inconveniences as unimportant. Jaguars343 are, indeed, common, but the chief objection to them is that they make it difficult to keep poultry. Poisonous snakes exist, but the prejudice against them is unreasonably strong. No case of any one dying from snake-bite had occurred at our informant’s location.
THE MONTA?A OF PERU.
One drawback he did, indeed, freely admit. There was scarcely any limit to be set to the productive capabilities344 of the country, but, beyond what could serve for personal consumption, it was hard to say what could be done with the crops. He was then engaged in trying the possibility of transporting some of the more valuable produce of his farming to Lima. The journey had been one of extreme difficulty. In some of the valleys heavy rains had washed away tracks and carried away bridges, and he had been driven back to seek a passage by some other route. About one-half of his train of mules with their loads had been carried away by torrents345, or otherwise lost; but our buoyant countryman, now virtually arrived at his journey’s end, seemed to think the experiment a fairly successful one. He had received no news from98 England since the beginning of the previous November, so that one or two newspapers five weeks old were eagerly accepted.
The return journey from Chicla to Lima was easy and agreeable, but offered little of special interest. I noticed a curious illustration of the effects of the sea-breeze on vegetation even at a distance of thirty or forty miles from the coast. As we descended346, I observed that the acacias which abound37 in the middle zone of the valley were densely347 covered with masses of the white flowers of a climbing Mikania, quite masking the natural aspect of the shrub74. I thought it strange that this appearance should not have struck me while on my way ascending the valley. On closer attention, I saw that the Mikania was entirely348 confined to the eastern side of the acacia, so that the same shrub, looked at from the western side, showed no trace either of the leaves or flowers of the visitor. On reaching the Lima station, I was kindly349 greeted by Mr. Nation, who at once relieved my most pressing anxiety by telling me that I should find two reams of filtering paper awaiting me at my hotel.
CLIMATE OF THE PERUVIAN ANDES.
Having given in the twenty-second volume of the Journal of the Linn?an Society a list of the plants collected during my excursion in the Cordillera, it is needless to overload350 these pages with technical names, and I shall content myself with a few general remarks on the vegetation of this region, amidst which I passed a brief period of constantly renewed admiration and delight. In the first place, the general character of the flora of Chicla differed altogether from my anticipations, for the simple reason that the climate is99 completely different from what might, under ordinary conditions, be expected. I had seen reason to conjecture351 that, in ascending from the Pacific coast to the Cordillera, the rate of diminution352 of mean temperature would be less considerable than in most other parts of the world, but I was no way prepared to find it so slight as it really is. During the time of my visit, the mean temperature at Lima, 448 feet above the sea, was very nearly 70°, while the annual mean appears to be 66·6° Fahr.10 The mean temperature at Chicla at the same season was estimated by me at 54°, with a maximum of 65·7°, and a minimum of 42°, and the first figure probably approximates to the annual mean. For a difference in height of 11,774 feet this would give an average fall of 1° Fahr. for 935 feet of elevation, or 1° Cent. for 512 metres; whereas, as100 is well known,11 the ordinary estimate found in physical treatises353, resulting chiefly from the observations of Humboldt, would give for Equatorial America a fall of 1° Fahr. for about 328 English feet of increased altitude, or 1° Cent. for 180 metres. This rate of decrease would give a fall of 36·6° Fahr. in ascending from Lima to Chicla, whereas, as we have seen, the difference is probably little more than one-third, certainly less than one-half, of that amount. It is, therefore, with some astonishment354 that the stranger, arriving in this region of the Cordillera, finds himself amidst a vegetation characteristic of the Temperate zone,12 and that many of the most conspicuous species are such as in mid-Europe require the protection of a greenhouse. Amongst the more attractive and characteristic of the Andean flora, I may mention five species of Calceolaria, Alonsoa, two fine Loasace? (one with large deep orange flowers and stiff hairs that penetrate the gloves, the other a climber with yellow flowers), several bushy Solanace?, and a beautiful clematis, which may hereafter adorn263 European gardens.
Along with many types of vegetation peculiar19 to the Andes, or more or less widely diffused355 throughout the Western continent, it was very interesting to a101 botanist from Europe to find so large a proportion of the indigenous plants belong to types which characterize the mountain vegetation of our continent. Of the genera in which the plants collected by me are to be classed, fully one-half belong to this category, and these genera include more than an equal proportion of species. I find, indeed, that fully sixty per cent. of the species in my collection belong to European genera, but that, with trifling exceptions, the species are distinct and confined to the Andean region. The reasonable conclusion is that the types which are thus common to distant regions must be of very great antiquity, and that the ancestors of the existing species must have spread widely at a very remote period of the world’s history. Most of the plants in question belong to genera having very numerous species, of which it may be presumed that the parent forms possessed356 a strong tendency to variation.
FLORA OF THE PERUVIAN ANDES.
The only tree seen at Chicla is a species of elder—Sambucus Peruviana of botanists357—not widely differing from the common black elder of Europe.
Along with the numerous allies of the Old-World flora that characterize the indigenous vegetation, it was somewhat remarkable to find, in the upper valley of the Rimac, a number of cosmopolitan358 weeds, most of them common in Europe, which appear to have become thoroughly naturalized. Most of these, which are also found in the coast region of Peru, were undoubtedly introduced by the Spaniards; but there are a few, such as the common chickweed, whose wide diffusion359 throughout the world seems to me to be more probably due to transport by birds.
102 To the botanist, the most interesting features in the Andean flora are supplied by the great family of Composit?. To this belong nearly one-fourth of all the plants collected by me, and nearly one-third of those found in the higher Alpine region; and, as far as available materials allow me to judge, I believe these to be about the true proportions for the higher parts of the Andean chain. It is further remarkable that of the thirteen tribes into which the 780 genera and 10,000 species of this family have been divided, all but the two smallest tribes—Calendulace? and Arctotide?—are represented in the Andes. To the European botanist, the most interesting group is that of the Mutisiace?, which is especially characteristic of the South American flora. Of 420 known species belonging to this tribe, fully 350 are exclusively American, the remainder being distributed through Australasia, and from South Africa to Southern Asia. They exhibit many unfamiliar360 forms very unlike what we are used to find elsewhere in the world. One of the first plants which I gathered was a tall, straggling climber with pinnate leaves ending in a tendril. I naturally thought of the vetch tribe, but I observed that the leaves were without stipules, and that the leaflets were not articulated to the midrib. Great, however, was my surprise when, on finding a flowering specimen, it revealed itself as a composite belonging to the genus Mutisia.
Next to the Composit?, the grasses are of all the natural orders the most largely represented in the Andean flora, but with the difference that nearly all belong to genera common to the mountain regions of103 Europe. The species are indeed different, but the general aspect does not strike the European botanist as presenting any marked features of novelty.
FLORA OF THE ALPINE ZONE.
One further characteristic of the flora of Chicla is the great variety of species to be found within a small area. In this respect it seemed to me to rival the flora of Southern Spain and Asia Minor361, which are known to be exceptionally rich in endemic forms. I am, of course, unable to judge whether in this part of the Andes the species are localized to nearly the same degree as in those parts of the Mediterranean region, and it is at least possible that the individual species which I saw crowded together at Chicla may have a relatively362 wide geographical363 range. The only social species, in some places covering large patches on the steep slopes, is a lupen growing in dense bushy masses.
Again guarding myself from the temptation to draw positive inferences from very slight opportunities for observation, I may add a few remarks on what I saw of the flora of the upper or Alpine zone of the Cordillera. This appears to be far more sharply defined at its lower limit than that which I shall designate as the temperate zone. In the latter, although the nights are at all seasons cool, actual frost is rarely experienced, and snow never lies on the ground. In the upper or Alpine zone, on the contrary, night frosts recur194 not unfrequently throughout the year, snow falls from time to time, more frequent in winter—from May to August—but does not lie long enough to provide a season of complete rest to the vegetative organs. To the influence of these conditions we may104 probably attribute the chief characteristics of the flora. With scarcely an exception, the species of this zone are stunted364 in growth, rising but a few inches from the surface, but have much developed prostrate365 or creeping woody stems, or underground rhizomes. Compared with the middle, or temperate, zone, the species generally belong to the same natural groups. Some of the families, however, which are characteristic of the middle zone, such as Loasace?, Verbenace?, and Solanace?, do not appear to reach the higher region.
Of forms characteristic of the Alpine region of mountains in the Old World I observed several; e.g. Geranium, Astragalus, Valeriana, Draba, a saxifrage, and a very small gentian.
To sum up my impressions as to the flora of the western slopes of the Cordillera, I should say that it appears to be naturally divided into three well-marked zones. The lower, or subtropical, extending to about eight thousand feet above the sea, characterized by deficient rainfall, moderate heat continued throughout the year, and a complete absence of cold, the thermometer rarely falling below 50°. The species here mainly belong to genera characteristic of the flora of tropical America, but, owing to the climatal conditions, are limited in number, and do not include groups requiring much moisture.
The middle, or temperate, zone, extending from about eight thousand to about thirteen thousand feet above the sea, possesses a very varied flora which includes many groups characteristic of the Andes, and entirely or mainly confined to that range, with representatives of numerous genera that are widely diffused105 through the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, and a smaller number of representative species of groups belonging to the tropical American flora. The climate of this region is marked by the absence of all extremes of temperature. Cool nights, in which frosts are infrequent and of short duration, alternate with days wherein the shade temperature rarely surpasses 70°. The division between the temperate and subtropical zones is marked rather by the more frequent, though moderate, rainfall, which in the former recurs366 at intervals throughout the year, than by any marked change of temperature. Hence there may be distinguished a rather broad intermediate zone in which many of the characteristic forms of each meet and are intermingled; but this does not appear to be defined by any genera, or even by more than a few species peculiar to it, and does not deserve to be treated apart in a general survey of the flora.
DIVISIONS OF THE ANDEAN FLORA.
The upper, or Alpine, zone of the Cordillera, extending from about thirteen thousand feet to the utmost limit of vegetation, is well defined by the circumstance that night frosts here recur throughout the year, and snow lies at least occasionally on the surface, while a somewhat greater amount of aqueous precipitation, in the form of rain or snow, combined with diminished evaporation367, maintains a moderate degree of moisture in the soil. The proportion borne by some groups of the characteristic Andean flora as compared with the entire vegetable population is here larger than in the temperate zone, but other types better adapted to the climate of the latter zone are here nearly or altogether wanting. The forms common106 to the north temperate zone are present in about an equal proportion, while the representatives of the tropical flora are but very few.
With reference to the opinion expressed by writers of authority, and especially by Engler,13 that the Andean flora is exceptionally rich in endemic genera and species, and to the explanation which would account for the facts, first, by the greater facility afforded for the extension of new varieties in dry climates, where the soil is not continuously covered by the existing vegetation; and, secondly368, by the isolation369 of the summits, favouring the development of special local forms, I may venture on some sceptical remarks.
When we are struck by the large number of genera and species that are exclusively confined to the Andean flora, we are apt to forget the vast extent of the region which we are contemplating370. Even if we exclude the mountains of Central America, and also those of Southern Chili, from Araucania to the Straits of Magellan, we have in the Andes a mountain region considerably more than three thousand miles in length, and from two hundred to over five hundred miles in breadth. This vast region is as yet far from being sufficiently explored to enable us to fix the geographical limits of its genera and species with any precision; but it appears to me that, while a very large number of genera are limited to the Andes as a whole region, the range of most of them within the limits of that region is very wide. I am further disposed to form a similar opinion as to the distribution107 of the species if compared to what is found in some other mountain districts. If we were to find in South America anything like the variety of species limited to very small areas that is encountered in Southern Spain, Greece, Asia Minor, and Southern Persia, where on each mountain that we ascend we find several well-marked local species, differing from those in similar stations a few miles distant, the catalogue of the Andean flora would have to be extended to three or four times its actual length.
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE ANDES.
Fully agreeing, as I do, with Engler in his general conclusion that dry climates are more favourable than moist ones to the development of new varieties, which are the ancestors of future new species, I must remark that in the Andes, so far as we know, the species with very restricted area abound more in the upper zone, where the soil is relatively moist, than in the drier middle or lower zones. Nor does it appear that isolation of the summits can be with reason invoked371 as an explanation. The most marked feature in the range, and one that geologists372 have perhaps not taken enough to heart, is the extremely continuous character of the crest of the range, especially on the western side, as is evidenced by the fact that from Colombia to Southern Chili there are so very few passes below the limit at which snow frequently lies on the surface. For a rational explanation of the facts as to the distribution of mountain floras373, we are forced to assume that the various agencies which are in daily operation—birds and land animals, winds, etc.—are competent to effect the transference of the great majority of species from one mountain to another not very far removed; and108 if that be true in districts where peaks are separated by arms of the sea or by intervals of low country having a very different climate, the process must be still easier in a chain so continuous as that of the Andes.
On the evening of the 24th I had the advantage of meeting the representatives of nearly all the European powers then present at Lima at the table of Don R. C——, a native gentleman of large fortune and influential374 position. The entertainment might properly be described as sumptuous, and, excepting in some royal palaces, could not easily be matched in Europe. One feature, indeed, was unique, and appealed to the susceptibility of a botanist. The vases heaped with choice specimens of tropical fruits could scarcely have been seen out of Peru. The occasion was not one on which political questions could with propriety375 be discussed, but I was struck by the complete agreement amongst men of various nationalities, whose duty it was to know the real state of things, as to the formidable prospect of anarchy and disorder that must ensue whenever the Chilian forces should be withdrawn376 from Lima and the adjoining provinces—a prospect, I need scarcely add, that has been since fully realized.
Soon after sunrise on the 25th Mr. Nation was good enough to call for me. We had agreed to make a short excursion along the bed of the Rimac, the best, if not the only, ground near the city where one can form some idea of the indigenous vegetation of the low country. As happens elsewhere, the river has carried down seeds or roots of many plants of the valley, which find a home on its broad gravelly bed,109 while the continual moisture has enabled many species of the plain, elsewhere dried up at this season, to maintain a vigorous growth. The little expedition was full of interest, and, with the aid of Mr. Nation’s extensive local knowledge, I was able to make acquaintance with many forms of vegetation not hitherto seen. It was necessary to return early to the town, as my Chicla collections required many hours of diligent378 work until nightfall, when I had the pleasure of joining an agreeable party at the house of Mr. Graham, the British chargé d’affaires.
M. LOMBARDI.
Among other scientific or social engagements, I called on the following day upon M. Lombardi, the author of a voluminous work on Peru, of which three large volumes have already appeared. M. Lombardi is a man of varied and extensive acquirements, especially in natural history, and in the course of frequent travels through the interior has accumulated a large mass of new materials of no slight value. Unfortunately, his work has been planned on a scale needlessly vast and costly379; and now that the funds, at one time freely supplied by the Government, are no longer forthcoming, the prospect of its completion seems rather uncertain. The drawings and dissections of many species of plants from the higher regions of the Andes not hitherto figured, which M. Lombardi was good enough to show me, appeared to be very carefully executed, and their publication, in whatever form, would be welcomed by botanists.
A PERUVIAN SUGAR PLANTATION.
I had accepted an invitation to visit on the 27th a hacienda belonging to Don R. C—— and his brothers at a place called Caudivilla, about twenty miles north110 of Lima. In company with an agreeable party of the officers of two Italian frigates380 then stationed at Callao, we started by the railway which runs parallel to the coast from Lima to Ancon and Chancay. At a station about three miles from the hacienda, we left the main line, and were conveyed to our destination on a private line of railway belonging to the estate. This is a tract49 of flat country about eight miles long by four in breadth, extending to the base of the outermost381 spurs of the Cordillera, and watered by a stream from the higher range in the background. It is almost exclusively devoted to sugar-cultivation, and in the large buildings which we inspected the whole process of extracting sugar and rum from the cane382 was proceeding on a large scale, and with the aid of the most complete machinery383 and apparatus384. Although some fifteen hundred workmen are employed upon the works, it appeared as if human labour played but a small part in the processes wherein steam power was the chief agent. Trains of small trucks, laden with sugar-cane cut to the right length, were drawn377 up an incline, the contents of each tilted385 in turn into a huge vat46, wherein it was speedily crushed. We followed the torrent of juice which constantly flowed from this reservoir through a succession of large chambers until it reached the final stage, in which, purified and condensed, it is at once converted into crystals of pure sugar when thrown off by the centrifugal action of a rapidly revolving386 axis387, while the colourless pellucid388 product which is to furnish the rum of commerce was conveyed into vessels389 whose dimensions would put to shame the great tun of Heidelberg.
111 I confess to having felt less interest in the industrial results of this admirably conducted estate, than in what I was able to learn of the human beings employed and their relations to their employers; and I found here matter for agreeable surprise. The workmen are partly agricultural labourers engaged in the sugar-plantation and other outdoor work, partly those employed in and about the factory. Among them were representatives of various races, the Chinese being perhaps in a majority, but with a considerable proportion of negroes and half-caste natives of Peru. I was struck at first with a general air of well-being390 among all the working people, and I found this easily accounted for when I saw more of the arrangements made for their benefit.
Among other departments we were shown the hospital, small, but perfectly clean and airy, in which there were only three or four patients, and a school with a cheerful-looking young mistress surrounded by jolly-looking little children, who came forward unasked to display their acquirements in spelling. But what particularly pleased me was the large eating-house, or restaurant, where we found hundreds of workmen at their midday meal. They were not marshalled at long tables, but sitting in small groups round separate tables, every man choosing his own company, and calling for the dish which he preferred. Seeing these men, each with his napkin, enjoying his selected food, I could not help thinking that in the article of diet they are better off than a traveller in many parts of Europe, to say nothing of the population of the British Islands. I was assured that no112 profit whatever was made on this branch of the establishment. There was no pretence391 of philanthropy, but simply the intelligent view that as a mere matter of business it answered best that the working men should feel themselves to be well off. In point of fact, the mere threat to discharge a man from his employment is usually found to be sufficient to maintain order and industry.
There was little time available for botanizing here, and, the ground being all under cultivation, little of any interest to be found. On the way back I secured one of the beautiful reeds (Gynerium) which abound in tropical America. Herbarium specimens give little idea of a grass which, in moist situations, is from twenty to twenty-five feet in height, and whose flowering panicle is from four to five feet long.
On the following day, April 28, Mr. Nation again acted as my guide in a short walk about the outskirts392 of the city on the south and south-west sides. Nothing could be more uninviting than the appearance of the ground, which consists of volcanic sand, in most places completely bare of vegetation, but strewn with the refuse of the city, skeletons of cattle, and all sorts of rejectamenta, which make it the favourite resort of the black gallinazo (Cathartes atratas), the universal scavenger393 in this part of South America. The bird is deservedly protected by the population, which probably owes to its activity protection from pestilence. On the banks of some ditches and drains, and on some patches of waste land moistened by infiltration394, we found several interesting plants. It was not evidence of the good character of113 the lower class in Lima to observe that on these occasions Mr. Nation carried a loaded revolver in his breast-pocket.
SUPPOSED ANCIENT BEACHES.
Amongst various items of information received from Mr. Nation, I was especially interested in the facts which he had observed in the neighbourhood of Lima regarding the disintegration395 of the exposed volcanic rocks. As he was kind enough to give me a written memorandum396 on the subject, along with specimens of the objects referred to, I think it better to give the substance in his own words.
“In one of the earlier editions of his ‘Principles of Geology,’ Sir Charles Lyell, on the authority of Mr. Cruikshank, speaks of the evidence afforded of a considerable rise of land in the neighbourhood of Lima by the appearance of the surface of hard green sandstone rocks hollowed out into precisely the forms which they assume between high and low water mark on the shores of the Pacific, while immediately below these water-worn lines are ancient beaches strewn with rounded blocks. One of these cliffs appears on the hill behind the Ba?os del Pingro, about seven hundred feet above the contiguous valley; another occurs at Amancaes, about two hundred feet above the sea;14 and others at intermediate elevations.” Mr. Nation remarks that, having seen these appearances soon after his arrival at Lima, continued observation during more than twenty-five years has satisfied him not only that the hollows spoken of in the surface of the rocks114 are larger than they were, but that many new ones have been formed during the interval170. He is satisfied that the appearances, which, he admits, exactly resemble those caused by the sea on shore rocks, are due to suba?rial action. The chief agent, in his opinion, is a cryptogamic plant growing on the surface of the rock. During a great part of the year, when dense fogs prevail at this elevation, the plant is in active vegetation. In the alternations of relative dryness and dampness of the air the cells swell258 and mechanically remove scales from the surface, which are seen to accumulate rapidly in the course of a single season.
Having submitted a specimen of the cryptogam in question to the eminent397 lichenologist, Mr. Crombie, I am informed that the plant belongs to the group of lowly organized lichens399, now distinguished as the Ephebacei, but formerly referred to the Alg?. In the absence of fructification, Mr. Crombie is unable to decide whether the specimen should be referred to Sirosiphon or Spilonema; but he is sceptical as to the possibility of any direct chemical action upon the rock arising from the growth of the lichen398. Some indirect action may, in his opinion, be due to retention400 of moisture on surfaces covered by the lichen. This opinion is strengthened when it is remembered that the rock is not affected401 by carbonic acid, which might be derived402 from the air, or by vegetable acids which might be formed by the decomposition403 of the lichen. I am disposed to think that vicissitudes404 of temperature play a great part in the disintegration of rock surfaces, and such action must be increased by115 alternations of moisture and dryness which must occur where, during a great part of the year, the hills are covered with fog in the morning and exposed to the sun in the afternoon.
DISINTEGRATION OF ROCKS.
In connection with this subject I may remark that, in countries where the rainfall is very slight or altogether deficient, we are apt to be misled by the appearance of the surface, and to much overrate the real amount of disintegration. In the drier parts of the Mediterranean region, especially in Egypt, as well as in Peru and Chili, we constantly see rocky slopes covered with fine débris which represent the accumulated work of many centuries, remaining in situ because there is no agency at work to remove it, while in countries where the slopes are frequently exposed to the action of running water fresh surfaces are subjected to the action of the atmosphere, and the comminuted materials are carried to a distance to form alluvial405 flats, to fill up lakes, or ultimately to reach the sea-coast. A somewhat similar remark may be made with regard to rock surfaces habitually406 covered with snow and very rarely exposed to heavy rain. I have often observed in the Alps and Pyrenees that, when the snow disappears during the short summer of the higher regions, we generally find the surface covered with small fragments of the underlying407 rock, not removed by the slow percolation408 of water during the melting of the snow. The same phenomenon long ago attracted the attention of Darwin during his short excursion across the passes of the Chilian Andes.
I regretted much that my very short stay at Lima left me no time to visit the places where these curious116 appearances may be observed; but I trust that they may engage the attention of some future traveller more competent than myself to thoroughly investigate them.
The morning of the 29th of April, my last day in Peru, was fully employed in needful preparations. As is usual in South America, I was troubled by the dilatory409 habits of the natives. The passport, which was promised in the morning, and without which, as I was told, I should not be allowed to depart, was not forthcoming until late in the afternoon; and at length I went, after bidding farewell to my travelling companions and to some new friends, by the four-o’clock train to Callao, too late to have any time for visiting the surroundings of that curious place. The Ayacucho steamer of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company had already left her moorings, and lay in the outer harbour. Having hurried on board rather after the hour named for departure, I found that my haste was quite superfluous410, as we were not under way till long after dark, about nine p.m.
I quitted Lima full of the interest and enjoyment411 of my brief visit, but full also of the sense of depression necessarily caused by the condition of a country whose future prospects412 are so dark. The ruinous war, and the occupation of the best part of Peru by a foreign army, are far from being the heaviest of her misfortunes. It may even be that they afford the best chance for her recovery. The immediate18 prospect is that of a feeble military despotism, tempered by anarchy. It seems possible that amongst the classes hitherto wealthy, and now reduced to comparative117 want, men of a type superior to the ordinary political adventurer may come forward; some strong man, with resolute will and clear insight, may possibly arise, and re-establish order in the midst of a moral chaos413; but of such a deliverance there is as yet no promise. Conversing with men of very different opinions, I was unable to hear of any man whose name inspired confidence. Some such feeling had existed with regard to the President Pardo, but when he was assassinated414 no serious attempt was made to detect and punish his murderers. The only opinion which appeared to obtain general assent415 was that the worst of the adventurers who have been the curse of Peru was the late dictator Pierola.
DARK FUTURE OF PERU.
One thing, at least, appears certain: if Peru is to be rescued from anarchy and corruption, it must be through the influence of a single will—by a virtual, if not a formal, autocracy416. To believe that in such a condition of society as exists here progress can be accomplished by representative institutions seems to me as gross a superstition417 as the belief in the divine right of kings.
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1 chili | |
n.辣椒 | |
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2 flora | |
n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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3 temperate | |
adj.温和的,温带的,自我克制的,不过分的 | |
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4 plantation | |
n.种植园,大农场 | |
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5 prospect | |
n.前景,前途;景色,视野 | |
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6 anarchy | |
n.无政府状态;社会秩序混乱,无秩序 | |
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7 haze | |
n.霾,烟雾;懵懂,迷糊;vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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8 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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9 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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10 luncheon | |
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11 parley | |
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12 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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13 ominous | |
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14 nervously | |
adv.神情激动地,不安地 | |
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15 epidemic | |
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16 sporadic | |
adj.偶尔发生的 [反]regular;分散的 | |
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17 malignant | |
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18 immediate | |
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19 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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20 expressive | |
adj.表现的,表达…的,富于表情的 | |
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21 apprehend | |
vt.理解,领悟,逮捕,拘捕,忧虑 | |
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22 renewal | |
adj.(契约)延期,续订,更新,复活,重来 | |
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23 wrecks | |
n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 );(事故中)遭严重毁坏的汽车(或飞机等);(身体或精神上)受到严重损伤的人;状况非常糟糕的车辆(或建筑物等)v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 );使(船舶)失事,使遇难,使下沉 | |
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24 buoys | |
n.浮标( buoy的名词复数 );航标;救生圈;救生衣v.使浮起( buoy的第三人称单数 );支持;为…设浮标;振奋…的精神 | |
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25 battered | |
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26 worthy | |
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27 remarkable | |
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28 warships | |
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29 naval | |
adj.海军的,军舰的,船的 | |
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30 incompetence | |
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31 impunity | |
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33 affront | |
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34 momentary | |
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35 impartial | |
adj.(in,to)公正的,无偏见的 | |
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36 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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37 abound | |
vi.大量存在;(in,with)充满,富于 | |
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38 seaman | |
n.海员,水手,水兵 | |
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39 warfare | |
n.战争(状态);斗争;冲突 | |
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40 illustrated | |
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41 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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42 volcanic | |
adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
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43 naturalists | |
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44 naturalist | |
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45 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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47 pelican | |
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48 pelicans | |
n.鹈鹕( pelican的名词复数 ) | |
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49 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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50 shipping | |
n.船运(发货,运输,乘船) | |
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51 indefatigable | |
adj.不知疲倦的,不屈不挠的 | |
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52 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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53 swooping | |
俯冲,猛冲( swoop的现在分词 ) | |
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54 slate | |
n.板岩,石板,石片,石板色,候选人名单;adj.暗蓝灰色的,含板岩的;vt.用石板覆盖,痛打,提名,预订 | |
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55 detention | |
n.滞留,停留;拘留,扣留;(教育)留下 | |
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56 reign | |
n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;v.占优势 | |
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57 sufficiently | |
adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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58 uncertainty | |
n.易变,靠不住,不确知,不确定的事物 | |
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59 extricating | |
v.使摆脱困难,脱身( extricate的现在分词 ) | |
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60 proceeding | |
n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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61 proceedings | |
n.进程,过程,议程;诉讼(程序);公报 | |
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62 envoy | |
n.使节,使者,代表,公使 | |
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63 postal | |
adj.邮政的,邮局的 | |
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64 quays | |
码头( quay的名词复数 ) | |
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65 countenances | |
n.面容( countenance的名词复数 );表情;镇静;道义支持 | |
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66 mingled | |
混合,混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 ); 混进,与…交往[联系] | |
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67 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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68 entrusted | |
v.委托,托付( entrust的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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69 victorious | |
adj.胜利的,得胜的 | |
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70 fabulous | |
adj.极好的;极为巨大的;寓言中的,传说中的 | |
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71 slumbering | |
微睡,睡眠(slumber的现在分词形式) | |
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72 patio | |
n.庭院,平台 | |
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73 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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74 shrub | |
n.灌木,灌木丛 | |
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75 plaza | |
n.广场,市场 | |
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76 inmates | |
n.囚犯( inmate的名词复数 ) | |
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77 vacancy | |
n.(旅馆的)空位,空房,(职务的)空缺 | |
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78 vile | |
adj.卑鄙的,可耻的,邪恶的;坏透的 | |
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79 renaissance | |
n.复活,复兴,文艺复兴 | |
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80 whitewash | |
v.粉刷,掩饰;n.石灰水,粉刷,掩饰 | |
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81 animation | |
n.活泼,兴奋,卡通片/动画片的制作 | |
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82 unnatural | |
adj.不自然的;反常的 | |
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83 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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84 throng | |
n.人群,群众;v.拥挤,群集 | |
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85 indifference | |
n.不感兴趣,不关心,冷淡,不在乎 | |
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86 engrossed | |
adj.全神贯注的 | |
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87 dominant | |
adj.支配的,统治的;占优势的;显性的;n.主因,要素,主要的人(或物);显性基因 | |
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88 fauna | |
n.(一个地区或时代的)所有动物,动物区系 | |
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89 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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90 laborious | |
adj.吃力的,努力的,不流畅 | |
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91 crest | |
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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92 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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93 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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94 engrossing | |
adj.使人全神贯注的,引人入胜的v.使全神贯注( engross的现在分词 ) | |
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95 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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96 contractor | |
n.订约人,承包人,收缩肌 | |
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97 undertaking | |
n.保证,许诺,事业 | |
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98 undertakings | |
企业( undertaking的名词复数 ); 保证; 殡仪业; 任务 | |
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99 legitimate | |
adj.合法的,合理的,合乎逻辑的;v.使合法 | |
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100 stipulated | |
vt.& vi.规定;约定adj.[法]合同规定的 | |
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101 unpaid | |
adj.未付款的,无报酬的 | |
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102 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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103 ascertain | |
vt.发现,确定,查明,弄清 | |
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104 ravages | |
劫掠后的残迹,破坏的结果,毁坏后的残迹 | |
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105 devastated | |
v.彻底破坏( devastate的过去式和过去分词);摧毁;毁灭;在感情上(精神上、财务上等)压垮adj.毁坏的;极为震惊的 | |
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106 belligerent | |
adj.好战的,挑起战争的;n.交战国,交战者 | |
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107 permanently | |
adv.永恒地,永久地,固定不变地 | |
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108 authentic | |
a.真的,真正的;可靠的,可信的,有根据的 | |
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109 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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110 memoirs | |
n.回忆录;回忆录传( mem,自oir的名词复数) | |
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111 beholding | |
v.看,注视( behold的现在分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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112 renounced | |
v.声明放弃( renounce的过去式和过去分词 );宣布放弃;宣布与…决裂;宣布摒弃 | |
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113 ascertained | |
v.弄清,确定,查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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114 boundless | |
adj.无限的;无边无际的;巨大的 | |
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115 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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116 followers | |
追随者( follower的名词复数 ); 用户; 契据的附面; 从动件 | |
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117 undoubtedly | |
adv.确实地,无疑地 | |
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118 renown | |
n.声誉,名望 | |
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119 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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120 contingent | |
adj.视条件而定的;n.一组,代表团,分遣队 | |
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121 inefficient | |
adj.效率低的,无效的 | |
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122 outrage | |
n.暴行,侮辱,愤怒;vt.凌辱,激怒 | |
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123 nucleus | |
n.核,核心,原子核 | |
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124 license | |
n.执照,许可证,特许;v.许可,特许 | |
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125 unreasonably | |
adv. 不合理地 | |
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126 disastrous | |
adj.灾难性的,造成灾害的;极坏的,很糟的 | |
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127 apprehended | |
逮捕,拘押( apprehend的过去式和过去分词 ); 理解 | |
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128 disorder | |
n.紊乱,混乱;骚动,骚乱;疾病,失调 | |
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129 averted | |
防止,避免( avert的过去式和过去分词 ); 转移 | |
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130 impartiality | |
n. 公平, 无私, 不偏 | |
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131 allotted | |
分配,拨给,摊派( allot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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132 cleansing | |
n. 净化(垃圾) adj. 清洁用的 动词cleanse的现在分词 | |
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133 lighting | |
n.照明,光线的明暗,舞台灯光 | |
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134 stimulus | |
n.刺激,刺激物,促进因素,引起兴奋的事物 | |
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135 persistent | |
adj.坚持不懈的,执意的;持续的 | |
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136 careworn | |
adj.疲倦的,饱经忧患的 | |
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137 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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138 sentry | |
n.哨兵,警卫 | |
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139 suite | |
n.一套(家具);套房;随从人员 | |
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140 ushered | |
v.引,领,陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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141 assailed | |
v.攻击( assail的过去式和过去分词 );困扰;质问;毅然应对 | |
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142 fanatic | |
n.狂热者,入迷者;adj.狂热入迷的 | |
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143 hatred | |
n.憎恶,憎恨,仇恨 | |
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144 gorge | |
n.咽喉,胃,暴食,山峡;v.塞饱,狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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145 dwindles | |
v.逐渐变少或变小( dwindle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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146 copious | |
adj.丰富的,大量的 | |
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147 torrent | |
n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
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148 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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149 marshes | |
n.沼泽,湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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150 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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151 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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152 tracts | |
大片土地( tract的名词复数 ); 地带; (体内的)道; (尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的)短文 | |
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153 irrigated | |
[医]冲洗的 | |
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154 denser | |
adj. 不易看透的, 密集的, 浓厚的, 愚钝的 | |
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155 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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156 laden | |
adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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157 toiled | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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158 scorching | |
adj. 灼热的 | |
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159 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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160 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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161 hindrance | |
n.妨碍,障碍 | |
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162 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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163 scanty | |
adj.缺乏的,仅有的,节省的,狭小的,不够的 | |
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164 Mediterranean | |
adj.地中海的;地中海沿岸的 | |
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165 cactus | |
n.仙人掌 | |
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166 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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167 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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168 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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169 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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170 interval | |
n.间隔,间距;幕间休息,中场休息 | |
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171 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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172 precipices | |
n.悬崖,峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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173 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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174 ascent | |
n.(声望或地位)提高;上升,升高;登高 | |
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175 expedient | |
adj.有用的,有利的;n.紧急的办法,权宜之计 | |
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176 expedients | |
n.应急有效的,权宜之计的( expedient的名词复数 ) | |
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177 zigzags | |
n.锯齿形的线条、小径等( zigzag的名词复数 )v.弯弯曲曲地走路,曲折地前进( zigzag的第三人称单数 ) | |
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178 friable | |
adj.易碎的 | |
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179 plunged | |
v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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180 chasm | |
n.深坑,断层,裂口,大分岐,利害冲突 | |
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181 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
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182 trickling | |
n.油画底色含油太多而成泡沫状突起v.滴( trickle的现在分词 );淌;使)慢慢走;缓慢移动 | |
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183 rivulets | |
n.小河,小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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184 industrious | |
adj.勤劳的,刻苦的,奋发的 | |
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185 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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186 precisely | |
adv.恰好,正好,精确地,细致地 | |
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187 declivity | |
n.下坡,倾斜面 | |
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188 buttress | |
n.支撑物;v.支持 | |
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189 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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190 fumes | |
n.(强烈而刺激的)气味,气体 | |
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191 stifling | |
a.令人窒息的 | |
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192 botanist | |
n.植物学家 | |
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193 parched | |
adj.焦干的;极渴的;v.(使)焦干 | |
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194 recur | |
vi.复发,重现,再发生 | |
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195 indigenous | |
adj.土产的,土生土长的,本地的 | |
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196 tantalizing | |
adj.逗人的;惹弄人的;撩人的;煽情的v.逗弄,引诱,折磨( tantalize的现在分词 ) | |
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197 fleeting | |
adj.短暂的,飞逝的 | |
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198 postponed | |
vt.& vi.延期,缓办,(使)延迟vt.把…放在次要地位;[语]把…放在后面(或句尾)vi.(疟疾等)延缓发作(或复发) | |
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199 lurid | |
adj.可怕的;血红的;苍白的 | |
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200 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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201 detour | |
n.绕行的路,迂回路;v.迂回,绕道 | |
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202 lateral | |
adj.侧面的,旁边的 | |
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203 anticipations | |
预期( anticipation的名词复数 ); 预测; (信托财产收益的)预支; 预期的事物 | |
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204 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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205 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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206 rigid | |
adj.严格的,死板的;刚硬的,僵硬的 | |
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207 cleft | |
n.裂缝;adj.裂开的 | |
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208 prodigious | |
adj.惊人的,奇妙的;异常的;巨大的;庞大的 | |
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209 sublimity | |
崇高,庄严,气质高尚 | |
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210 impending | |
a.imminent, about to come or happen | |
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211 jaws | |
n.口部;嘴 | |
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212 crevices | |
n.(尤指岩石的)裂缝,缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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213 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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214 verge | |
n.边,边缘;v.接近,濒临 | |
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215 muffled | |
adj.(声音)被隔的;听不太清的;(衣服)裹严的;蒙住的v.压抑,捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 );用厚厚的衣帽包着(自己) | |
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216 bass | |
n.男低音(歌手);低音乐器;低音大提琴 | |
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217 vertically | |
adv.垂直地 | |
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218 baron | |
n.男爵;(商业界等)巨头,大王 | |
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219 remarkably | |
ad.不同寻常地,相当地 | |
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220 edifices | |
n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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221 mortar | |
n.灰浆,灰泥;迫击炮;v.把…用灰浆涂接合 | |
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222 planks | |
(厚)木板( plank的名词复数 ); 政纲条目,政策要点 | |
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223 requisite | |
adj.需要的,必不可少的;n.必需品 | |
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224 corrugated | |
adj.波纹的;缩成皱纹的;波纹面的;波纹状的v.(使某物)起皱褶(corrugate的过去式和过去分词) | |
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225 scrambling | |
v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 );攀登;争夺;(军事飞机)紧急起飞 | |
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226 chambers | |
n.房间( chamber的名词复数 );(议会的)议院;卧室;会议厅 | |
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227 mitigated | |
v.减轻,缓和( mitigate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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228 elevations | |
(水平或数量)提高( elevation的名词复数 ); 高地; 海拔; 提升 | |
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229 density | |
n.密集,密度,浓度 | |
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230 aggravated | |
使恶化( aggravate的过去式和过去分词 ); 使更严重; 激怒; 使恼火 | |
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231 attenuated | |
v.(使)变细( attenuate的过去式和过去分词 );(使)变薄;(使)变小;减弱 | |
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232 attained | |
(通常经过努力)实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 ); 达到; 获得; 达到(某年龄、水平、状况) | |
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233 exertion | |
n.尽力,努力 | |
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234 disturbance | |
n.动乱,骚动;打扰,干扰;(身心)失调 | |
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235 derangement | |
n.精神错乱 | |
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236 respiration | |
n.呼吸作用;一次呼吸;植物光合作用 | |
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237 profuse | |
adj.很多的,大量的,极其丰富的 | |
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238 sleepless | |
adj.不睡眠的,睡不著的,不休息的 | |
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239 plight | |
n.困境,境况,誓约,艰难;vt.宣誓,保证,约定 | |
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240 zealous | |
adj.狂热的,热心的 | |
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241 deferring | |
v.拖延,延缓,推迟( defer的现在分词 );服从某人的意愿,遵从 | |
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242 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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243 procure | |
vt.获得,取得,促成;vi.拉皮条 | |
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244 specimen | |
n.样本,标本 | |
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245 specimens | |
n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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246 distress | |
n.苦恼,痛苦,不舒适;不幸;vt.使悲痛 | |
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247 repulsive | |
adj.排斥的,使人反感的 | |
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248 corruption | |
n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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249 preservation | |
n.保护,维护,保存,保留,保持 | |
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250 asylum | |
n.避难所,庇护所,避难 | |
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251 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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252 deficient | |
adj.不足的,不充份的,有缺陷的 | |
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253 watershed | |
n.转折点,分水岭,分界线 | |
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254 streaks | |
n.(与周围有所不同的)条纹( streak的名词复数 );(通常指不好的)特征(倾向);(不断经历成功或失败的)一段时期v.快速移动( streak的第三人称单数 );使布满条纹 | |
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255 tints | |
色彩( tint的名词复数 ); 带白的颜色; (淡色)染发剂; 痕迹 | |
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256 tributaries | |
n. 支流 | |
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257 brawling | |
n.争吵,喧嚷 | |
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258 swell | |
vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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259 swelling | |
n.肿胀 | |
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260 dwindling | |
adj.逐渐减少的v.逐渐变少或变小( dwindle的现在分词 ) | |
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261 pueblo | |
n.(美国西南部或墨西哥等)印第安人的村庄 | |
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262 frail | |
adj.身体虚弱的;易损坏的 | |
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263 adorn | |
vt.使美化,装饰 | |
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264 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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265 inscriptions | |
(作者)题词( inscription的名词复数 ); 献词; 碑文; 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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266 recollected | |
adj.冷静的;镇定的;被回忆起的;沉思默想的v.记起,想起( recollect的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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267 teeming | |
adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 );到处都是;(指水、雨等)暴降;倾注 | |
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268 sumptuous | |
adj.豪华的,奢侈的,华丽的 | |
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269 inquiries | |
n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 );疑问;探究;打听 | |
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270 poultry | |
n.家禽,禽肉 | |
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271 trifling | |
adj.微不足道的;没什么价值的 | |
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272 abominable | |
adj.可厌的,令人憎恶的 | |
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273 peril | |
n.(严重的)危险;危险的事物 | |
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274 invader | |
n.侵略者,侵犯者,入侵者 | |
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275 dread | |
vt.担忧,忧虑;惧怕,不敢;n.担忧,畏惧 | |
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276 condor | |
n.秃鹰;秃鹰金币 | |
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277 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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278 slaughtered | |
v.屠杀,杀戮,屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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279 sanitary | |
adj.卫生方面的,卫生的,清洁的,卫生的 | |
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280 carrion | |
n.腐肉 | |
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281 accomplished | |
adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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282 lodged | |
v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 );暂住;埋入;(权利、权威等)归属 | |
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283 pestilence | |
n.瘟疫 | |
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284 remonstrances | |
n.抱怨,抗议( remonstrance的名词复数 ) | |
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285 condors | |
n.神鹰( condor的名词复数 ) | |
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286 intercourse | |
n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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287 discomforts | |
n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 );不愉快,苦恼 | |
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288 hesitation | |
n.犹豫,踌躇 | |
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289 nausea | |
n.作呕,恶心;极端的憎恶(或厌恶) | |
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290 dressing | |
n.(食物)调料;包扎伤口的用品,敷料 | |
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291 despatch | |
n./v.(dispatch)派遣;发送;n.急件;新闻报道 | |
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292 impatience | |
n.不耐烦,急躁 | |
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293 aggravating | |
adj.恼人的,讨厌的 | |
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294 curtailed | |
v.截断,缩短( curtail的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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295 previously | |
adv.以前,先前(地) | |
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296 concealed | |
a.隐藏的,隐蔽的 | |
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297 judgment | |
n.审判;判断力,识别力,看法,意见 | |
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298 atlas | |
n.地图册,图表集 | |
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299 mules | |
骡( mule的名词复数 ); 拖鞋; 顽固的人; 越境运毒者 | |
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300 mule | |
n.骡子,杂种,执拗的人 | |
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301 farmhouses | |
n.农舍,农场的主要住房( farmhouse的名词复数 ) | |
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302 clump | |
n.树丛,草丛;vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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303 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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304 alpine | |
adj.高山的;n.高山植物 | |
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305 dwarf | |
n.矮子,侏儒,矮小的动植物;vt.使…矮小 | |
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306 erect | |
n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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307 spiny | |
adj.多刺的,刺状的;n.多刺的东西 | |
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308 judicious | |
adj.明智的,明断的,能作出明智决定的 | |
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309 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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310 gasp | |
n.喘息,气喘;v.喘息;气吁吁他说 | |
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311 vista | |
n.远景,深景,展望,回想 | |
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312 feverish | |
adj.发烧的,狂热的,兴奋的 | |
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313 flattened | |
[医](水)平扁的,弄平的 | |
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314 glistened | |
v.湿物闪耀,闪亮( glisten的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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315 lustre | |
n.光亮,光泽;荣誉 | |
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316 tempted | |
v.怂恿(某人)干不正当的事;冒…的险(tempt的过去分词) | |
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317 conceals | |
v.隐藏,隐瞒,遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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318 spines | |
n.脊柱( spine的名词复数 );脊椎;(动植物的)刺;书脊 | |
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319 penetrate | |
v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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320 prudent | |
adj.谨慎的,有远见的,精打细算的 | |
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321 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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322 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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323 swooped | |
俯冲,猛冲( swoop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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324 specks | |
n.眼镜;斑点,微粒,污点( speck的名词复数 ) | |
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325 gallop | |
v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔;飞速发展 | |
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326 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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327 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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328 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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329 luxurious | |
adj.精美而昂贵的;豪华的 | |
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330 conversing | |
v.交谈,谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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331 lustrous | |
adj.有光泽的;光辉的 | |
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332 prevailing | |
adj.盛行的;占优势的;主要的 | |
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333 hues | |
色彩( hue的名词复数 ); 色调; 信仰; 观点 | |
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334 thoroughly | |
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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335 wailing | |
v.哭叫,哀号( wail的现在分词 );沱 | |
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336 fodder | |
n.草料;炮灰 | |
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337 inadequate | |
adj.(for,to)不充足的,不适当的 | |
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338 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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339 resolute | |
adj.坚决的,果敢的 | |
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340 thighs | |
n.股,大腿( thigh的名词复数 );食用的鸡(等的)腿 | |
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341 adventurous | |
adj.爱冒险的;惊心动魄的,惊险的,刺激的 | |
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342 disposition | |
n.性情,性格;意向,倾向;排列,部署 | |
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343 jaguars | |
n.(中、南美洲的)美洲虎( jaguar的名词复数 ) | |
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344 capabilities | |
n.能力( capability的名词复数 );可能;容量;[复数]潜在能力 | |
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345 torrents | |
n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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346 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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347 densely | |
ad.密集地;浓厚地 | |
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348 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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349 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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350 overload | |
vt.使超载;n.超载 | |
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351 conjecture | |
n./v.推测,猜测 | |
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352 diminution | |
n.减少;变小 | |
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353 treatises | |
n.专题著作,专题论文,专著( treatise的名词复数 ) | |
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354 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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355 diffused | |
散布的,普及的,扩散的 | |
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356 possessed | |
adj.疯狂的;拥有的,占有的 | |
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357 botanists | |
n.植物学家,研究植物的人( botanist的名词复数 ) | |
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358 cosmopolitan | |
adj.世界性的,全世界的,四海为家的,全球的 | |
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359 diffusion | |
n.流布;普及;散漫 | |
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360 unfamiliar | |
adj.陌生的,不熟悉的 | |
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361 minor | |
adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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362 relatively | |
adv.比较...地,相对地 | |
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363 geographical | |
adj.地理的;地区(性)的 | |
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364 stunted | |
adj.矮小的;发育迟缓的 | |
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365 prostrate | |
v.拜倒,平卧,衰竭;adj.拜倒的,平卧的,衰竭的 | |
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366 recurs | |
再发生,复发( recur的第三人称单数 ) | |
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367 evaporation | |
n.蒸发,消失 | |
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368 secondly | |
adv.第二,其次 | |
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369 isolation | |
n.隔离,孤立,分解,分离 | |
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370 contemplating | |
深思,细想,仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 ); 注视,凝视; 考虑接受(发生某事的可能性); 深思熟虑,沉思,苦思冥想 | |
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371 invoked | |
v.援引( invoke的过去式和过去分词 );行使(权利等);祈求救助;恳求 | |
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372 geologists | |
地质学家,地质学者( geologist的名词复数 ) | |
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373 floras | |
n.(某地区或某时期的)植物群,植物区系,植物志( flora的名词复数 ) | |
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374 influential | |
adj.有影响的,有权势的 | |
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375 propriety | |
n.正当行为;正当;适当 | |
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376 withdrawn | |
vt.收回;使退出;vi.撤退,退出 | |
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377 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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378 diligent | |
adj.勤勉的,勤奋的 | |
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379 costly | |
adj.昂贵的,价值高的,豪华的 | |
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380 frigates | |
n.快速军舰( frigate的名词复数 ) | |
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381 outermost | |
adj.最外面的,远离中心的 | |
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382 cane | |
n.手杖,细长的茎,藤条;v.以杖击,以藤编制的 | |
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383 machinery | |
n.(总称)机械,机器;机构 | |
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384 apparatus | |
n.装置,器械;器具,设备 | |
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385 tilted | |
v. 倾斜的 | |
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386 revolving | |
adj.旋转的,轮转式的;循环的v.(使)旋转( revolve的现在分词 );细想 | |
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387 axis | |
n.轴,轴线,中心线;坐标轴,基准线 | |
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388 pellucid | |
adj.透明的,简单的 | |
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389 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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390 well-being | |
n.安康,安乐,幸福 | |
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391 pretence | |
n.假装,作假;借口,口实;虚伪;虚饰 | |
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392 outskirts | |
n.郊外,郊区 | |
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393 scavenger | |
n.以腐尸为食的动物,清扫工 | |
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394 infiltration | |
n.渗透;下渗;渗滤;入渗 | |
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395 disintegration | |
n.分散,解体 | |
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396 memorandum | |
n.备忘录,便笺 | |
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397 eminent | |
adj.显赫的,杰出的,有名的,优良的 | |
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398 lichen | |
n.地衣, 青苔 | |
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399 lichens | |
n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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400 retention | |
n.保留,保持,保持力,记忆力 | |
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401 affected | |
adj.不自然的,假装的 | |
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402 derived | |
vi.起源;由来;衍生;导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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403 decomposition | |
n. 分解, 腐烂, 崩溃 | |
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404 vicissitudes | |
n.变迁,世事变化;变迁兴衰( vicissitude的名词复数 );盛衰兴废 | |
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405 alluvial | |
adj.冲积的;淤积的 | |
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406 habitually | |
ad.习惯地,通常地 | |
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407 underlying | |
adj.在下面的,含蓄的,潜在的 | |
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408 percolation | |
n.过滤,浸透;渗滤;渗漏 | |
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409 dilatory | |
adj.迟缓的,不慌不忙的 | |
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410 superfluous | |
adj.过多的,过剩的,多余的 | |
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411 enjoyment | |
n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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412 prospects | |
n.希望,前途(恒为复数) | |
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413 chaos | |
n.混乱,无秩序 | |
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414 assassinated | |
v.暗杀( assassinate的过去式和过去分词 );中伤;诋毁;破坏 | |
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415 assent | |
v.批准,认可;n.批准,认可 | |
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416 autocracy | |
n.独裁政治,独裁政府 | |
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417 superstition | |
n.迷信,迷信行为 | |
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