It was arranged that on the following morning we should move on a two days' journey to Lobsan's tents, which were situated3 on the banks of the River Bayan Gol, where plans could be better formed for completing this last portion of our journey. We almost wished we had gone off to Barong, which lay a few miles south of us. The Tibetan merchants had told us that we should be able to hire camels there; but then, again, the Mongols assured us that although we might be able to hire camels, it was quite certain that the owners would not venture across the Bana country with so small a party, and that we should have to await the arrival of the Tibetan merchants, which would cause two or three weeks' delay, and perhaps more, but that if we did not mind that we had better go to Barong. We decided4 that our best plan was to stick to our Mongols, who thus far had treated us so well, and who, we felt sure, would eventually agree to take us to China.
Our first day lay through a land of thick hermok bushes and grass, including a sandy plain, the whole party being mounted on stout5 ponies6. Towards evening we halted by a spring in a small grassy7 plain. Here we found other 241 Mongols, and it was evident that this spot, called Ootoo, was a regular camping ground.
With the help of a bright moon, we found them before daybreak loading up the ponies again, and as we continued our journey through the bush and grass country we saw several hares, pheasants, and goa. After a couple of miles we saw Mongol tents for the first time. These tents, which were made of sticks and thick felt, were of circular shape, with conical top, and had a small opening for a door. Scattered9 around them were numbers of sheep, goats, cows, ponies, and big black long-haired dogs, whose bark and attitude, apparently10 dangerous, were in reality harmless, for they were generally put to rout11 by the little terrier Ruby12.
After a five hours' ride we halted to graze the ponies on the banks of a stream called Shishi, which flowed in a southerly direction and at this time of the year was easily fordable. We were soon on the move again, for the Mongols were anxious to reach their tents before nightfall. As we wended our way through the hermok bushes, Malcolm and I loitered behind to devour13 some of their berries. So busily engaged were we that we forgot how far behind we were, and on resuming our ride found we had wandered off the track, and could see no signs of our little party.
Separating, and keeping one another in view, we rode on in what we considered would be the proper direction, riding up every piece of high ground we came to for a better view. From one of these eminences14 Malcolm saw some ponies grazing in the distance. On our reaching them, they proved to be ponies belonging to some Mongols living on the banks of a river. We found there many groups of tents, from whose owners we learnt that Lobsan lived further up the river, so knew we had reached the banks of the Bayan Gol. After passing several other tents with the usual amount of cattle, we discovered just after sunset that 242 Lobsan's tents were situated on the opposite bank. We found the river some three feet deep and twenty yards across, and though the water was fairly clear, and flowing fast, it was safer to cross the river as rapidly as possible, for otherwise one was liable to sink into the soft mud that lines the bottom in these parts.
Our little camp was already pitched a couple of hundred yards from Lobsan's tent, and he, good-hearted fellow, was soon by our side with a supply of good tea and milk, of which attention and refreshment15 we showed our approval by holding up our thumbs and repeating the word "Hoch! Hoch!"
We broke the Sabbath by buying more tsampa and mar16. It was curious to see these people examining each rupee, those with a crown on the Queen's head being separated from those without one, the crownless ones being far more appreciated, for some reason or other we could not discover.
We spent three days by Lobsan's tents, and the better we became acquainted with these people the more we were able to testify to their kindly17 dispositions18. Throughout the stay our camp formed a general place of gathering19 from morn till eve, all coming to sight-see, barter20, and gossip, so that we were seldom left to ourselves. Their talk was principally about "gourmo," which means rupees. They formed picturesque21 groups with their beaming faces. All the men wore black knee-boots, and thick sheepskin cloaks tucked in at the waist to adjust them to a convenient length, so as to hang over their breeches of the same material. These cloaks are generally slipped half off on a warm day, leaving one arm and part of their body bare. A leather hat with a white fur rim22, and a red or blue top with a red tassel23, was kept in its place by means of a chin-strap. There were other hats of nondescript shape. Many of them smoked the long and small-bowled pipe. 243
Sometimes they would bring us some fresh article to buy, notably24 vermicelli or kua mien25 from China, and millet26, called "turma" by Mongols and "churma" by Tibetans. They doubtless led a very happy life, and had but little to think about. Their wants, in the shape of mutton, milk, grain, and fruit, were provided with very little labour. Their ponies, camels, and fat-tailed sheep, both black, white, and brown, required but little looking after in this peaceful district. In accordance with the seasons, they move off with their flocks to the place where we first saw them, or to the good grazing on the banks of the Namoran Gol. Another home with stone walls is ready for them a few miles away, in the village of Kyrma.
One afternoon we accepted an invitation from Lobsan to tea in his family tent. We had to stoop to enter by the door, which was only four feet high, and made by inserting two stout beams in the ground, which supported a third one. The door was closed by letting down a thick piece of felt.
In the middle of the tent we found a large shallow saucepan, which was held up about a foot from the ground by three iron legs, underneath27 which was the fire to warm the tea, and directly above this was a hole in the conical top of the tent, to let out the smoke. The tent was about twelve feet in diameter, and the custom is to sit round the tea, which is brewed28 for the whole circle. We were soon seated with the rest of the family, and one old lady, as mistress of the ceremony, stirred up the boiling tea, and ladled it out into small bowls for each of us in turn. Together with our tea was also served a quantity of tsampa and ground cheese. During this sociable29 meal others came in to participate in it, or perhaps more probably to have a closer inspection30 of ourselves, while others left to make room. We, too, were equally interested in scrutinizing31 the old and young of both sexes in their own home. 244
After we had drunk as much tea as we could, and more than was good for us, the old lady produced a large vessel32 of curds33, a special luxury in honour of ourselves, and I regret to say that we could not do the justice to it that was expected from us. After this we were glad to get outside into the fresh air, for the tent had become very stuffy34, and we both remarked how impossible it would be for the coldest blast to penetrate35 so snug36 a home.
Few of these Mongols possessed37 more than one wife, though, can a man afford it, there is nothing against his having two. Our friend Lobsan was of the latter class. A man is considered rich if he possesses a thousand sheep and from ten to fifteen ponies. A marriage amongst them is arranged in the following manner. The would-be husband sends a friend with a piece of white muslin called a "k'artag" to the father of the lady, who may either retain it or return it. Should the former be the case it shows that his suit is accepted, and the lover at once sends the father presents of money, wine, etc., and forthwith takes away his bride, and after much festivity she becomes his wife.
Upon the death of a Mongol, the body is laid out in the open plain for a few days, and a piece of cloth is placed inside the mouth. During this time birds and dogs enjoy an unrighteous repast upon the decaying flesh. When the feast is considered to be completed, friends of the dead body visit the corpse38, and whatever bones are still remaining they smash up into small pieces and scatter8 to all quarters, so that every morsel39 is carried away, and nothing remains40 in the open plains. This accounted for our never finding any dead man's bones, though we did come across one or two skulls41 in good preservation42. Tibetans have three different ways of disposing of their dead, the most usual being to place the corpse in a squatting43 position on a hilltop, and then push it over the edge, so that it finds its own last resting-place, and becomes food for the birds. Occasionally burning 245 is resorted to, and very rarely, in the case of rich people, burial.
Throughout our stay with these people we always found them cheery, pleasant, and though naturally curious, still inoffensive. They could not quite grasp what I was up to when using a sextant in the middle of the day to take our latitude44, but when they were told that I was only doing prayers, they withdrew.
On our third and last day on the banks of the Bayan Gol, all our arrangements had been completed. Sheep and other supplies had been bought for a good fortnight, and we had struck a bargain for our transport. Lobsan was to let us have five riding ponies and five baggage ponies, to take us as far as the town of Sining, in the province of Kansu, a few miles across the border. For this journey of 300 miles we were to pay him twenty rupees a pony45, but as we had not sufficient money with us, for we had spent it nearly all, we were trusted by Lobsan to pay up the remainder at Sining. We believed that at that town we should come across some missionaries46.
Our Mongols spent most of the last day praying, and as their priest had foretold47 that this was a propitious48 day to start on, and the one they had chosen was not, Lobsan came to us, saying that since such was the case they would like some of our things to load up and march a few hundred yards up the river, and come back again, so that they might be able to say they had started on a propitious day.
Early on the morning of the 1st of October we were ready to start, but the Mongols caused so many unaccountable delays, that it was 1 o'clock before we had actually moved off. The delay was caused chiefly by the Mongol lama, who came and prayed earnestly with the men who were to accompany us, and in order that fortune might favour their venture, incense49 was burnt and carried round the homes of 246 the Mongols, and the ponies that were picked out for the journey. Our caravan50 consisted of Lobsan himself and three of his men, all mounted on ponies, and armed with two matchlocks and a spear of the extraordinary length of twenty-five feet. They, in addition to our ten ponies already mentioned, our flock of ten sheep, with the terrier Ruby, and our three mules51, who marched unloaded, composed the party.
In spite of all the preparations and prayers that had been held, we moved off quite quietly, without any kind of demonstration52, and, when once the loads had settled down, we covered ground at the rate of over three miles an hour, a great improvement on our accustomed pace. They were all stout ponies, and very fat, from the splendid grazing they enjoy, for no grain is allowed them.
As soon as we had reached a spot called Kanoo, where we were to halt for the night, the ponies were set free to graze, before being tied up close to us for the night without any covering. They were always let loose again with the first streak54 of daylight, so that they should not start on the march with empty stomachs. The Mongols always took care of their ponies, never losing an opportunity of relieving them of their loads and feeding them. They also used to change about: one day a pony would be ridden and the next he might be carrying a load.
The marches had to be regulated according to the water obtainable. On the third day, after going some six miles, we hit off the main road that runs from Barong to the Chinese border-town of Tankar, and whither we were bound. This track brought us to a clear-flowing rivulet55, reminding us of a trout-stream at home.
Here we made a midday two hours' halt. When it was time to start again, we were astonished at the rapidity with which the Mongols reloaded their ponies. They were wonderfully quick and handy, very different from our 247 original lot of Argoons from Leh. Their ponies were very tractable56, although ridden with only a snaffle or merely a headstall; and without ever being shod, they stood the long marches we made well enough. They were always marched in one long string. One end of the rope was held in the hand of one of the mounted men, who led the way, and the other end passed through the headstall of each of the ponies in turn. This answers all right, but the animals can pick up no living as they march. As soon as we had travelled beyond the neighbourhood of the Bayan Gol, Lobsan and his men began to show their fears of the Bana tribes, for he was always begging us to march with our guns ready, nor to go ahead of, or loiter behind, the party. They themselves, during the greater part of the day, were praying aloud as they marched, relieving themselves sometimes by startling us with a loud, hearty57 song.
After leaving the stream, we came to the entrance of a narrow gorge58, where Lobsan said we must keep our guns ready, for the Bana men hid behind rocks and appeared unexpectedly. His fears were increased by the sight of some croaking59 ravens60. He maintained that the noise they were making was a bad omen61, and to counteract62 the effect one of the old muzzle-loaders was placed on its stand and fired at the birds, but of course with no fatal results, for the croaking was redoubled, and we continued our ascent63 of the gorge. We then crossed a small plateau, and before entering another gorge we came to a stream, whose water they never drink, for it is considered a deadly poison to both man and beast. Although the water was quite clear, it tasted as though there was soda64 in it. On account of this poisonous stream, we had to make a ten hours' march before reaching any other water. Towards sunset we emerged into an open plain, and riding on a few miles we came to a spring and fruit bushes, evidently a haunt of bears, for one fine black fellow quickly made away towards the hills on our approach. 248
Some distance off in this plain of Noring Hol lay a salt lake, on whose further banks were the remains of two villages. These had been till lately Mongol homes, but the owners had fled in fear and deserted65 them on the approach of the Mohammedan rebels of Kansu, some of whom fled this way into Turkistan, after they had been defeated by the Chinese.
In this neighbourhood we saw for the first time the crests66 of hills covered with pine trees. Sometimes encampments are made in the valleys, and articles are made from the wood.
On the seventh day of our march we came to the spot, on the banks of the Tuling Gol, where lately there must have been a very considerable encampment. The posts to which the owners had tethered their animals still remained. Various articles lay scattered about, and the number of large fireplaces that had been built, testified to the numbers of the encampers. Here we learnt a small Chinese army had halted, in their pursuit of the Mohammedans fleeing into Turkistan.
Two more miles beyond this we came to a miserable67 village, Tuling, or Selling Gompa. This was quite the dirtiest and most dilapidated collection of houses that either of us had ever seen, or want to see again. All the inhabitants were either blind or lame68 or diseased in some shape or form, and, clad in filthy69 rags, they lay about basking70 in the sun and dirt. The big black dogs, blear-eyed and mangy, that crawled about, were well suited to the place. It was an asylum71 for all lepers, cripples, and other sufferers of these districts. It was close to this village that the French traveller, De Trouille de Rhins, had met an untimely end.
MONGOL CAMP: ONE OF OUR HALTS.
At this point there are two roads to China, one branching off half right, and the other half left. The former passes through a district from which much salt is obtained; it is a shorter but rougher road, and according to our Mongols 251 a more dangerous one. They therefore elected to travel by the other. There was a green valley up which the shorter road led, where we could see numbers of black tents of the Bana tribes, and their immense flocks of sheep, their cattle, tame yak72, and ponies.
With the exception of one white tent, all these Bana tents were as black as could be. The roofs of them were for the most part octagonal, with a hole in the middle to release the smoke. To each corner a rope is attached, which is fastened to a stick driven into the ground, and this again is kept secure by another rope attached to a peg73.
Now that we had come well into the midst of the Bana tribes, the Mongols' fears were redoubled, and they kept watch throughout the night. Soon after sunset they made up a number of big fires, so that we might represent a large camp, and in order to accustom53 their ponies to the noise of an attack, they rehearsed one, pretending that imaginary enemies had fallen upon us. They fired off their old matchlocks, and rushed here and there, crying out, "Ho! Hi!" We sat by a large fire of argols warming our toes, as we watched the performance, unwilling74 to help them with our guns in the terrible battle they were engaged in. As soon as they had beaten off the foe75, they, our men, and ourselves, formed the three points of a triangle, and picketing76 the ponies in our middle, slept soundly throughout the night, without further disturbance77 from real or imaginary enemies.
Some ten miles from this camp we found a wonderful rock, standing78 out conspicuous79 and alone in the grassy valley we were marching down. On one side of this rock a small open courtyard had been built from big blocks of white stone, some of which were a foot deep and broad, and two feet long. The walls were some twelve feet high, while the courtyard itself was about twelve yards long and eight yards broad. On many of the stones were Chinese, and 252 a few Tibetan, inscriptions80, and on the interstices between two of them we found a Chinese cash. Hanging across one wall was a piece of rope, and attached to this were any number of hairs from horses' tails and shoulder-bones with inscriptions on them. Just as I had managed to cut off one of these bones unobserved, the whole rope, with all its attachments81, fell to the ground. The Mongols at that moment entered, and although I concealed82 my bone, it was still a question whether they suspected me of the deed; however, very little harm was done, for they replaced the rope in its former position. Having entered the courtyard, we found a large cave some thirty feet high, and of the same diameter, inside the rock. But even still more remarkable83 than the cave itself is the entrance here of a subterranean84 passage, running all the way to the salt lake of Koko Nor. This wonderful place and the courtyard is said to have been the work of some superhuman agency, for the stones of the wall itself are considered to be too big and heavy for any mortal man to have placed there. The place is called Kanjur Rungyum, which means "sacred writings, not built by men."
At midday we halted by a small stream at the foot of a pass, called the Nicotine85 Kontal, so that the ponies might rest an hour or two before making the ascent. Our Mongols, for ever thinking of their Bana enemies, determined86 to improve the hour by a little target practice. It was a slow process, loading with powder and an irregular-shaped piece of lead, which was shoved down with a wooden ramrod, then placing the powder at the touch-hole, preparing the fuse, and resting the gun on the wooden rail which they raised to sight the gun before finally applying the fuse. They made far better practice at the target, which was 150 yards off, than we had anticipated.
THREE REMAINING MULES AT KOKO NOR.
After crossing this easy pass we travelled through a country of grass, and on the ninth day of our march saw 255 in the distance the small hill, with its cairn called Hatuturgy on top, that lies at the western end of the large lake of Koko Nor. The following day we found the country inhabited by more Bana people living in their black tents; they were dotted about all over the land, with immense flocks of sheep and countless87 herds88 of tame yak.
That night was the coldest we experienced during our journey. There were twenty-seven degrees (Fahr.) of frost, but, although we were sleeping on the ground without any tent, our slumbers89 were sounder than they sometimes are in a bed of luxury.
We journeyed along the northern shore of this inland sea, for people in China, when visiting the Koko Nor, talk of spending a week at the sea. This salt lake is about 230 miles round, with a few small islands. By reason of its colour it is called the Blue Lake or Koko Nor.
As we marched along all day we overtook large herds of yak being driven to the Chinese markets, laden90 with salt or wool. At midday we made our halt by one of the several streams that run into the lake from the ranges of hills. At night-time it was impossible to find a spot which would be out of sight of these black tents. This induced our Mongols to take more precautions than ever for their safety.
Much to their dismay, we agreed that I should ride on ahead the following morning with Esau the last hundred miles or so to the Chinese border town of Tankar. We knew how well Rockhill had been received at the little inn there, and I hoped that I should come across Tibetans who would help us to arrange for our onward91 journey through China. I hoped to have all ready by the time Malcolm arrived with the Mongols.
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1
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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scatter
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| vt.撒，驱散，散开；散布/播；vi.分散，消散 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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rout
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| n.溃退，溃败；v.击溃，打垮 | |
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ruby
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| n.红宝石，红宝石色 | |
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devour
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| v.吞没；贪婪地注视或谛听，贪读；使着迷 | |
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eminences
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| 卓越( eminence的名词复数 )； 著名； 高地； 山丘 | |
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refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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mar
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| vt.破坏，毁坏，弄糟 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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dispositions
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| 安排( disposition的名词复数 )； 倾向； （财产、金钱的）处置； 气质 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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barter
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| n.物物交换，以货易货，实物交易 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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tassel
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| n.流苏，穗；v.抽穗， （玉米）长穗须 | |
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notably
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| adv.值得注意地，显著地，尤其地，特别地 | |
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mien
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| n.风采；态度 | |
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millet
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| n.小米，谷子 | |
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underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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brewed
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| 调制( brew的过去式和过去分词 )； 酝酿； 沏（茶）； 煮（咖啡） | |
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sociable
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| adj.好交际的，友好的，合群的 | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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scrutinizing
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| v.仔细检查，详审( scrutinize的现在分词 ) | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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curds
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| n.凝乳( curd的名词复数 ) | |
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stuffy
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| adj.不透气的，闷热的 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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corpse
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| n.尸体，死尸 | |
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morsel
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| n.一口，一点点 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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skulls
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| 颅骨( skull的名词复数 )； 脑袋； 脑子； 脑瓜 | |
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preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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missionaries
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| n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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foretold
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| v.预言，预示( foretell的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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propitious
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| adj.吉利的；顺利的 | |
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incense
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| v.激怒；n.香，焚香时的烟，香气 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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demonstration
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| n.表明，示范，论证，示威 | |
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accustom
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| vt.使适应，使习惯 | |
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streak
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| n.条理，斑纹，倾向，少许，痕迹；v.加条纹，变成条纹，奔驰，快速移动 | |
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rivulet
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| n.小溪，小河 | |
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tractable
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| adj.易驾驭的；温顺的 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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croaking
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| v.呱呱地叫( croak的现在分词 )；用粗的声音说 | |
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ravens
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| n.低质煤；渡鸦( raven的名词复数 ) | |
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omen
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| n.征兆，预兆；vt.预示 | |
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counteract
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| vt.对…起反作用，对抗，抵消 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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soda
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| n.苏打水；汽水 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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crests
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| v.到达山顶（或浪峰）( crest的第三人称单数 )；到达洪峰，达到顶点 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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lame
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| adj.跛的，(辩解、论据等)无说服力的 | |
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filthy
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| adj.卑劣的；恶劣的，肮脏的 | |
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basking
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| v.晒太阳，取暖( bask的现在分词 )；对…感到乐趣；因他人的功绩而出名；仰仗…的余泽 | |
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asylum
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| n.避难所，庇护所，避难 | |
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yak
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| n.牦牛 | |
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peg
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| n.木栓，木钉；vt.用木钉钉，用短桩固定 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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picketing
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| [经] 罢工工人劝阻工人上班，工人纠察线 | |
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disturbance
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| n.动乱，骚动；打扰，干扰；(身心)失调 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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attachments
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| n.（用电子邮件发送的）附件( attachment的名词复数 )；附着；连接；附属物 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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nicotine
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| n.(化)尼古丁，烟碱 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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slumbers
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| 睡眠，安眠( slumber的名词复数 ) | |
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laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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