The distance to Pao T'eo from the river bank was said to be fifteen li, so we lost no time in starting to walk there, leaving the servants and boatmen to bring our baggage to Messrs. Forbes's office. The fifteen li cannot really have been much more than nine, for, walking quickly, we got to the city gate in a little over three-quarters of an hour. Once inside, we were very much struck by the difference between this and the other cities we had seen; instead of crowded streets, with every available yard of ground within the walls occupied, we here found lanes, almost deserted1 except by a few children and pigs, and a large bit of waste land inside the walls, absolutely untenanted. Not only had this piece of ground been left severely2 alone, but two small suburbs, on the south and east sides respectively, had sprung up outside. Why so much ground had been originally enclosed no one could tell us.
While asking our way to the office of the wool firm, the Renki Yang Hong as it was called, we suddenly found ourselves opposite the entrance of the Swedish Mission-house. Needless to say, we went in at once, and were heartily3 welcomed. While explaining who we were and where we had come from, coffee was prepared by our hostess, and more 368 delicious coffee I have never tasted; but as we were anxious to make all arrangements for starting the next morning, we could not waste time, but had to rush off to the office, accompanied by the missionaries4, who showed us the way. Before leaving the house, however, they took us into their school, where we found some five-and-twenty remarkably5 clean and happy-looking children, who were being brought up to Christianity. When we entered they were deep in study, all reading their lessons at the top of their voices in every imaginable key. This method of committing the task to memory is universal throughout China. As soon as any child has mastered it, he or she holds up a hand, and is then called up to the desk to repeat it to the master. An important difference is now observable between the practice in native and foreign schools, for in the latter they proceed just as we do at home, but the native teacher makes the child stand with his back to the desk and his hands behind him, while the master arms himself with a cane6, which descends7 remorselessly at the slightest slip.
It was not far to the Yang Hong, and old Chen-Lao-Pan's letter was sufficient to ensure us every civility. Money was at once forthcoming, and here, for the first time, we saw and became possessed8 of a "shoe" of silver, a lump weighing rather more than fifty ounces; we also got some more of the ordinary lumps, weighing from three to five ounces each, for minor9 current expenses. We had not been long in the office, and had not drunk more than three cups of tea each, when the baggage arrived. One of the Swedes and Malcolm went off with it at once to look for an inn, while Rijnhart and I stayed to complete the arrangements and settle with the boatmen, who said that they had sold their vessel10 for Ts.5, a considerable loss on the cost price, but which the hire had more than covered.
ON THE ROAD IN CHINA.
Malcolm had some difficulty in finding an inn, owing to large numbers of soldiers being in the city at the time, but 371 at last he was successful, and also arranged with several carters who were on the look-out for a job to come round to the mission-house to arrange terms. We had long ago found out from Chen-Lao-Pan—who had spent many years in this part of China—how long the cart journey to Pekin should take us and how much we should pay; and, armed with this knowledge, our new friends and Rijnhart were able to get an agreement signed for three carts to do the journey in thirteen days for Ts.19 apiece, a most admirable clause being added to the effect that, should they not arrive up to time, they would only get Ts.9?. Often and often did we have cause to congratulate ourselves on having had this inserted, and I strongly recommend any travellers in China to get some guarantee of this kind whenever possible.
It was with the satisfactory feeling of a good day's work done that we sat down to supper and enjoyed the luxury of an unlimited11 supply of milk, such as we had not enjoyed since leaving India. After supper we sat up late, our hosts singing in English, as well as in their native tongue and Chinese, accompanying themselves or one another on the guitar, without which no Swedish home is complete; however, we were reluctantly compelled to say good-night, but not good-bye, as our hosts promised to come and see us off on the morrow.
There was the usual hitch12 in starting, caused this time by the carters discovering that they could not do the distance to Pekin in less than fourteen days, their reason being that some carters who had arrived the previous evening had told them that the road was now very bad. We tried to make them stick to the original agreement, but eventually gave way, and had a fresh one drawn13 up. Seeing that the usual time occupied in this journey is seventeen days, their request for an extra day was not unreasonable14. We also had to change some silver into cash for expenditure15 372 on the road, and this we entrusted16 to our landlord while we took a stroll through the streets.
Pao T'eo does not appear to have any distinctive17 trade or products of its own. One misses the splendid furs of Lancheo, the coal of Chong Wei, and the forges of Shih-Tsui-Tsi; but one notices very large numbers of Mongols, who bring in wool to the various firms. There were also numbers of copper18 Mongol kettles, of which we wanted to buy some specimens19, but were told we could get them better and cheaper in Pekin. The shops were very much larger and more well-to-do-looking than anything we had hitherto seen, and in one grocer's we bought some first-rate sponge cakes and a sort of apple jam, which was excellent. Eggs were fairly dear, five cash apiece; in some places we had paid five cash for two, but near the capital we had to pay as much as ten cash each. Fancy new-laid eggs at fourpence a dozen in London!
However, the longest delays come to an end at last, and at 11 a.m. on the 14th November we started on the last stage of our journey. The missionaries walked some little way with us to the outskirts20 of the east suburb, and before leaving they insisted on our promising21 to visit their countrymen in the various stations we should pass through.
That evening we stopped at a very comfortable inn in a little town called Salaki. Everywhere were signs that we were approaching the capital; the streets were better looked after, and the inn was quite the best we had yet seen.
All Chinese inns seem to be built on the same principle. One passes through a wide entrance, on one side of which is the kitchen, on the other a sort of eating-house, into the courtyard, which varies in size according to the traffic. Opposite the entrance are the best rooms, kept for distinguished22 guests, and all round are smaller rooms for people of less importance, carters and servants. Every 373 room is furnished with a k'ang or stove bed, and the better class inns have cupboards, tables, and chairs, but only in the best rooms. As long as one can get into these one can make oneself fairly comfortable, but should they be occupied one's lot is not an enviable one. Perhaps the most noticeable sign of civilization was glass windows, which we saw for the first time in Pao T'eo, and always daily afterwards. It was no longer necessary to carry large stores of provisions—these were obtainable everywhere; but in their place we had to carry an almost equal weight of cash, fifteen thousand of which, weighing no less than ninety pounds, we brought from Pao T'eo.
ON THE ROAD FROM PAO T'EO TO PEKIN.
Next morning we started soon after sunrise. The shopkeepers were just taking down their shutters23 as we left the inn, and the city was waking up to its daily life; most of 374 the people appeared to be engaged in the silk trade, so I suppose the worm is cultivated somewhere in the neighbourhood. Unfortunately, as we strolled on ahead of the carts we took a wrong turning, and had to retrace24 our steps almost to the inn before we found out where we had made the mistake. We then hurried after the carts, only to find that their road and ours joined almost at the very spot from which we had turned back. A stern chase is proverbially a long one, and this was no exception to the rule.
Just outside the walls we saw a coffin25 which was being conveyed to the corpse26's native place for interment, and this was the means of our learning a rather interesting Chinese custom. Every Chinaman has three souls, and on death one of these returns to the city temple, one to Hades, and one goes to the grave. With the last of these three a cock is always carried, no matter how far the coffin may have to be conveyed. In Southern China it is always a white cock, but in the north there appears to be no hard-and-fast rule as to colour. When the corpse is finally buried the unfortunate rooster is slain27, and his spirit goes to keep company with the soul in the coffin.
Every one has heard of the importance, in the eyes of the Chinaman, of being buried in his own home, and the ships' companies do not fail to take advantage of it, the passage-money for a dead man being many times that of a live one. Before starting on one of these journeys the greatest care is taken to ascertain28 an auspicious29 day, months often elapsing before a sufficiently30 favourable31 opportunity will occur.
On the 16th November we arrived at Kuei Hua Cheng. As we approached the town we passed a "big man." He was accompanied by three attendants, one riding in front and two behind, and we were told that anybody of importance generally rode in this fashion. Kuei Hua Cheng is a very large town, and is remarkable32 for the 375 absence of any sort of city wall, a deficiency for which we could discover no reason. Instead of the customary wall we found an extremely dirty entrance, for the road was at least a foot deep in mud. It hardly seems credible33 that a town of such importance—for besides being a large market it is utilised as the point of departure for numerous caravans—should be so wanting in this most essential respect. If this road were ever supplanted34 by a railway, Kuei Hua Cheng would become a centre of immense commercial interest. The sun was setting as we entered the town, and we had to make the most of the short time remaining before the shops shut to lay in stores for the next few days, when we should be crossing the Mongolian grass country, and unable to purchase anything. Meat, bread, and kua mien35 were easily procurable36, although the latter was very much dearer than it had been in Kansu, so it was still early when we had finished our supper and turned in for the night. It had been our original intention to visit the missionaries of this place, where I know we should have met with that warm-hearted hospitality which they are ever ready to bestow37 upon travellers. But supper over, the visions of an early start the next morning and the cold outside our inn were arguments too strong to be thrown aside.
Our carters met many friends at the inn, and determined38 to enjoy themselves accordingly; much wine was drunk, and one of them indulged in the luxury of a fight, all of which, though perhaps pleasant at the time, tended to prevent a very early start in the morning; further delay being caused by the carters suddenly thinking that they would like to take a pickaxe with them, with which they could improve the road in bad places. This delay enabled me to take a photograph of a very curious Buddhist39 temple, which stands just at the main eastern entrance to the town. To do this Rijnhart had to give me a leg-up on 376 to the wall, and it was not without some difficulty that I attained40 my object.
We were sorry not to be able to see more of this town, which has been made famous by Huc and Gabet, Younghusband, and others; but here, as throughout China, "absence without leave" and "reasons in writing" were our bugbears. Especially did we regret not being able to see more of this temple, which is known as "Wu Tai" Temple, and is covered from top to bottom with figures of Buddha41 ranged in rows, and of a very interesting Manchu city which lies about two miles north-east of Kuei Hua Cheng, and is called Sin Chen, or the "New City." This was the only Manchu city we had a chance of seeing, and its broad streets, planted with trees, and frequented alike by men and women, would have been a strong contrast to the ordinary Chinese town.
While still waiting for the pickaxe a large flock of our old friends the sand-grouse passed over our heads, bringing to our minds the days of plenty and days of hunger we had passed on the Chang. Almost immediately the pickaxe arrived, and we made a fresh start, and for the first time the road showed some signs of having had a little labour expended42 on it. Previously43 there had been nothing but rough tracks through or round the fields, or, when this became invisible, the carters would make a road for themselves. The general direction was well known to them, and sooner or later they would strike the track again; nor was it hard to tell when they had done so, as a drop into a rut some eighteen inches deep was an unmistakable sign that we were on the highroad to Pekin, which is, in the opinion of the Chinese, incomparably the finest road in the world. To-day, however, we came across some really neatly-made bridges in excellent repair, but evidently only intended for travellers on foot or on horseback, as, at one end or the other, there was invariably a gap some two feet wide, 379 effectually stopping wheeled traffic, so that all carts had to go through the water. Ninety li was the day's journey, taking us to Shih-Rong-Wa, where we stopped the night.
BUDDHIST TEMPLE. OUTSIDE KUEI HUA CHENG, CHINA.
Next day was uneventful, but we ascended44 gradually to a little village called Cha-Ha-Pa-La, 100 li, and got quite into the mountains again, very different country from what we had passed through since leaving Pao T'eo. The soil here appeared very rich, and every available patch of land was cultivated. Every day we used to pass through numerous villages, and in one we were lucky enough to come in for a theatrical45 entertainment. No village is without its theatre, and performances are frequent in the season; but as it was now the dull time we only saw one. The theatre is always situated46 close to, generally opposite, the city temple, a great convenience to the Taoist priests, who are also the theatrical managers. The play did not appear exciting, and neither of us understood a word of it, which was perhaps just as well, so we left after a very few minutes. The theatres being in the open, no entrance money is charged. The audience come and go as they please, but are expected to drop a small contribution into a collection box which is continually being handed round. This system has the further advantage of enabling the actors to converse47 freely with friends below when not otherwise engaged.
From Cha-Ha-Pa-La we made an early start, as we heard that the night's halting-place was to be a fair-sized town, and we wanted to arrive early so as to renew our supplies. We were pretty high up, and as it was now very near the end of November, the mornings were uncommonly48 cold. Rijnhart, Malcolm, Lassoo, and Esau all started walking, while Shahzad Mir and I followed with the carts. Not far from the village we crossed a low pass into a lovely wide valley, and a little further on the party ahead managed to take a wrong turn. I went on with the carts, and got to our 380 midday halting-place about ten o'clock, and there I had to sit and wait till the others should come up. I managed to make out, by drawings in the dust and other devices, that there was another road to Pekin, which the others must have taken, and by which they would get to our destination in seventeen days. Not thinking they were likely to be quite so long in finding out their mistake, I resolved to have my breakfast and await their arrival. After a couple of hours' waiting I was beginning to get a little bit anxious, and was considering what steps I had better take if, by any chance, they did not arrive before nightfall. However, at about one o'clock they hove in sight, so I immediately had the mules49 harnessed, while Shahzad Mir warmed up some tea.
In a few minutes Rijnhart and Malcolm were at the inn, but the two men were some way behind, and while waiting for them to come up, I heard how they had managed to miss us. It appeared that, when they missed the road, all the Chinese they had met had misled them by saying that they were right, and it was not till late in the day that they got into the proper road and arrived at the halting-place, after walking fully50 thirty miles.
"We were soon ready for a fresh start, but the carters, anxious for any excuse to back out of their agreement as long as the fault could be laid at our door, were very reluctant, but threats to cut off half their hire prevailed, and we were quickly on the move. The march was a long one, over rolling grassy51 plains, out of Chinese into Mongolian country. As the sun set a cold wind rose, and for some time we sat shivering on the carts. The carts were travelling very fast, as the going was excellent. We thought we should never get to our destination, but all the time we were buoyed52 up with the thought that, at all events, we should get to a big place where there was sure to be a good inn. At last they told us that Ho-Lo-Si-T'ai, our goal, 381 was close by, and in a few minutes we saw, not the town with castellated walls that we had imagined, but two miserable53 wayside inns with large yards full of sheep and camels, as unpromising a spectacle as one could wish to see.
On inquiry54, things proved even worse than they had at first appeared, for both inns were crammed55 full, and we could not find a spot to sleep in. At last we heard that there was a room in a small house close by, so round we went, only to find it tenanted by a man, two women, a sheep, and some children, a fair supply for a place about twelve feet square, but into it we squashed, until we had revived our circulation, and then, after a considerable amount of squabbling, we arranged that we would sleep in the carts, while the carters occupied the already overcrowded room, for the simple reason that the carters flatly refused to take us any further unless they slept inside the house and we outside. Perhaps, after all, the cold blast was preferable to dirt and a close atmosphere.
The following day our road lay over more grassy plains, in which were herds56 of antelope—called by the Chinese the "yellow sheep"—some sand-grouse, and a few great bustards, none of which we shot. There were several Mongol encampments, with their neat little circular dwelling-places and sheep-folds, much more civilized57 than those we had seen in the far west.
That evening we left the Mongol country, possibly for ever, and got into the cultivated district again. The change was very sudden, and showed us admirably how the Chinese are slowly, but surely, encroaching upon the country of their pastoral neighbours. Cha-Ha-La-Po, our home for the night, was an insignificant58 little place, and chiefly to be remembered for the fact that we there managed to get rid of some six hundred very inferior cash, brought from Shih-Tsui-Tsi.
At noon the next day we had to change our axles, the 382 roads from here being much narrower than they had hitherto been; and while doing so we had a row with the carters. A crowd promptly59 assembled, but Rijnhart soon managed to get them on our side, and we gained our point. We were now well within our time, and the carters knew that they could fulfil their contract without difficulty, so they loitered over the axle changing and made a very short march to a brand-new inn, where we put up in an excellent, clean, and airy room. There was still plenty of daylight left, of which we took advantage to have a real good wash in warm water.
MONGOL ENCAMPMENT.
As if to make up for this early halt, we were awakened60 soon after midnight, and started about 1 a.m.; but this energy, we had every reason to believe, was owing to a 383 desire on the part of our jehus to pass through the next village in the dark, owing to monetary61 or some other form of trouble they were in there. At first it was very dark, and as our road was very rough we went stumbling along till the moon came out from behind some heavy clouds. Rising rapidly, we were soon on a small pass, where some pious62 individual, in hopes of future reward, had built a neat little temple. The descent on the far side was steep, and the rocky gorge63 through which our road lay was very picturesque64 in the brilliant moonlight.
About daylight we got down to the bed of a stream, which we crossed and recrossed several times till we arrived at the small town of Hsing-Ping-Ho, the gate of which forms part of the Great Wall of China. We had already seen the Great Wall, near Chong Wei, where, however, it is little more than a turf embankment, but as we approached the capital we saw how it gradually improves, both in its original construction and its later preservation65; but even now we were very much disappointed, and were unable to realize how it ever managed to gain its world-wide reputation.
At Hsing-Ping-Ho the wall is of earth, faced with brick, generally not more than eight to ten feet high, and quite narrow, very different from the imposing66 structure one had always pictured it to be, and which we were yet destined67 to see. But although we could not yet look upon the wall with the respect one had hoped to feel for it, neither of us could help admiring the dogged perseverance68 with which it has been carried over mountain tops and down valleys, the most forbidding natural obstacles being treated as nought69 in comparison with the orders of the emperor.
After breakfast our road ran parallel to the stream we had crossed in the morning, which had now grown to a considerable size, and was called the Wo-Ku-Shan-Ho. Every few miles we passed a large walled city, evidently 384 very old, and now almost entirely70 deserted; they must all have seen better times and been places of importance—probably about the time that the Great Wall was being built. I photographed the walls of one of these cities, and the temple outside tenanted by some wooden figures. The name of the city was Si-Yang Ho.
TEMPLE OUTSIDE SI-YANG HO.
Showing Stages from Pao T'eo to Pekin. 14th November. —Pao T'eo to Tour-tsi 40
" November. " Sa-la-ki 50
15th November. " Mi-tour-chon 30
" November. " Ta-ri-tsi 80
16th November. " Peh-sie-ki 50
" November. " Kuei Hua Cheng 70
17th November. " Shih-Rong-Wa 90
18th November. " Cha-Ha-Pa-La 100
19th November. " Mongol Camp (long) 50
" November. " Ho-Lo-Si-T'ai 70
20th November. " Mongol Camp (short) 50
" November. " Cha-Ha-La-Po 80
21st November. " Cha-ka-ri 60
" November. " Teo-tao-keo 35
22nd November. " Hsing-Ping-Ho 75
" November. " Uen-tsi-tao-ri 50
23rd November. " Io-kia-t'ong 65
" November. " Nant-sing-ho 75
24th November. " Shuen-hua-fu 40
" November. " Siao-Si-Fu 35
25th November. " Ki-mio-si 35
" November. " Sa-cheng 45
" November. " Huai-lai-hsien 60
26th November. " Cha-tao 50
" November. " Nan-Kou 45
27th November. " Sha-ho 50
" November. " Pekin 45
From Pekin to Tien Tsin is 80 miles.
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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missionaries
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| n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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cane
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| n.手杖，细长的茎，藤条；v.以杖击，以藤编制的 | |
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descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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unlimited
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| adj.无限的，不受控制的，无条件的 | |
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hitch
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| v.免费搭(车旅行)；系住；急提；n.故障；急拉 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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unreasonable
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| adj.不讲道理的，不合情理的，过度的 | |
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expenditure
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| n.(时间、劳力、金钱等)支出；使用，消耗 | |
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entrusted
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| v.委托，托付( entrust的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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outskirts
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| n.郊外，郊区 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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retrace
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| v.折回；追溯，探源 | |
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coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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corpse
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| n.尸体，死尸 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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auspicious
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| adj.吉利的；幸运的，吉兆的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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credible
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| adj.可信任的，可靠的 | |
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supplanted
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| 把…排挤掉，取代( supplant的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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mien
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| n.风采；态度 | |
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procurable
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| adj.可得到的，得手的 | |
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bestow
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| v.把…赠与，把…授予；花费 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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Buddhist
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| adj./n.佛教的，佛教徒 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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Buddha
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| n.佛；佛像；佛陀 | |
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expended
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| v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 )；使用（钱等）做某事；用光；耗尽 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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theatrical
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| adj.剧场的，演戏的；做戏似的，做作的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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converse
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| vi.谈话，谈天，闲聊；adv.相反的，相反 | |
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uncommonly
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| adv. 稀罕(极，非常) | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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buoyed
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| v.使浮起( buoy的过去式和过去分词 )；支持；为…设浮标；振奋…的精神 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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inquiry
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| n.打听，询问，调查，查问 | |
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crammed
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| adj.塞满的，挤满的；大口地吃；快速贪婪地吃v.把…塞满；填入；临时抱佛脚( cram的过去式) | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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monetary
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| adj.货币的，钱的；通货的；金融的；财政的 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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nought
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| n.／adj.无，零 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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