We had just got into our fresh quarters when our carters turned up. They had received a severe beating for their carelessness, and had then been released. We paid them both off, and were not sorry at the thought of having seen the last of the Chinese muleteer.
At dinner that night we met a Mr. Denbigh, who is engaged in large business transactions in Saghalien, Vladivostock, and Japan, and who was now supplying sleepers3 for the new railway to Pekin. He made a most tempting4 offer, which we could not accept, namely, that we should accompany him in a ship he had chartered, run over in her to Japan, and then either go on in her to Canton, or change into one of the regular liners to Shanghai and Hong Kong. Next morning, as soon as breakfast was over, we went with Mr. Denbigh to try and fit ourselves out with some new clothes, but we did not succeed in getting much beyond stockings and shoes. We then went to the office of Messrs. Forbes & Co., and presented our letters, showing the amount we had drawn5 from their various agents, and settled the account in English money.
In the afternoon we met Mr. W. H. Forbes, an Edinburgh man, who told us that our quickest route would be to go by a steamer belonging to Messrs. Butterfield and Swire, called 416 the Nanchang, one of the very few running direct to Hong Kong. This would save several days, but would not allow of our seeing Shanghai; but time outweighed6 all other considerations, and we practically decided7 at once to adopt this course. In the evening we dined with Surgeon-Major Henston and the mess of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking8 Company, being treated on all hands with the greatest possible kindness.
Next morning we finally decided to go by the Nanchang direct to Hong Kong, and, with a view to this, we went round to Messrs. Butterfield and Swire's office. Here we learnt that, by taking the midday train to Tong Ku, we should get on board comfortably before dark. This sounded simple enough, but we still had something to learn with regard to Chinese travelling.
From Tientsin to Tong Ku is about thirty miles, and two trains run daily each way. Ships can come up the river as far as Tientsin, but, at this time of year, they seldom care to run the risk of being frozen in. We arrived at the railway station in good time, and there found a scene of the most horrible confusion. As soon as the train came alongside the platform, there was a general rush for the carriages, and every seat was taken. Not being accustomed to this sort of thing, we got left, but by the kindness of a Dr. Irwin, and a very nice Chinese official, we managed to put our servants and our baggage into an open waggon9, while we ourselves travelled in the brake van.[21]
There was a bitterly cold wind blowing, fortunately at our backs, so we kept the brake door open for fresh air only having to shut it when the train stopped. Had the wind been against us, our servants would have had a very poor time. We found, however, that we had a great pull over 417 people in the carriages, for we had a stove on which we roasted chestnuts10 the whole way to Tong Ku.
The Chinese gentleman to whom we were indebted for our seat in the train had been educated in America and spoke11 English fluently; he was a very go-ahead man, and was very anxious that the management of the railway should be put into the hands of foreigners, as the Chinese officials were quite helpless. But, with all his admiration12 for foreign products, he said that there was one thing he could get in China to suit him, and nowhere else, that was "spectacles." He certainly wore a splendid pair, for which he had given Ts.80—a very heavy price, but the glasses were extraordinarily13 good.
This was the first railway Esau and Lassoo had ever seen. They had long been looking forward to it, and had asked us many questions as to how the train moved, etc., but I am afraid their first experience was not an encouraging one.
On our arrival at Tong Ku, we heard that the Nanchang had gone outside the bar to complete her cargo14, but no one could tell us how to get out to her. After walking for about a mile we came to the end of the wharf15, and, by pure good luck, found a tug16 just on the point of leaving. "Where is the Nanchang?" we shouted. "I'm going to take a lighter17 out there at once; look sharp, if you're coming on board," was the reply. The tug began to move, but our repeated shouts brought it to a standstill. The pilot was an impatient man, and our coolies who carried our goods were tardy18 men, so that we just, and only just, managed to tumble our things and ourselves on board before the tug was in motion again.
As soon as our pilot had tugged19 us out alongside the lighter, he advised us to go aboard it with our luggage, and as we knew the Nanchang's cargo was on board also, we felt we could not be left behind. The pilot, too, promised 418 that if he could not get us alongside the Nanchang that night, he would take us ashore20 to the hotel at Taku. It was bitterly cold as we scrambled21 from the tug into the lighter, and whilst our servants barricaded22 themselves from the cruel blast with our boxes and rugs, Malcolm and I gladly stepped below and partook of the small space available, and of the rough though kind hospitality of the uncouth23 Chinese crew. As we felt ourselves being tugged out to sea it grew colder and colder. At length, soon after nightfall, to our dismay, the pilot faithlessly deserted24 us. Visions of beds at the Taku Hotel vanished, to be replaced by the flow of wrath25 we would let the pilot have on the morrow. The only course left to us was to make the best of our situation. As we had made no provision for food, we asked our rough hosts, by signs, what they could give us for dinner. This finally was served up, consisting of tea and monkey-nuts. We smiled at one another as we did ample justice to our last Chinese meal, and prayed that we might never fare worse.
I don't know how long I had slept, but suddenly I awoke. There was considerable hubbub26 aloft, and somehow I felt that we were dragging our anchor and drifting out to sea. Rushing up on deck, I found the wind was blowing so hard that, instead of an anchor, we were using a bit of a sail, and that after all I had needlessly left the warmth below. Soon after daybreak we saw a tug coming towards us, but, alas27! were unable to vent28 our wrath on our last night's pilot, for this one proved to be another tug. This quickly brought us alongside the Nanchang, where we were at first pointed29 out as being two Russians, but further acquaintance with the hardy30 and kind-hearted skipper and hospitable31 officers soon dissolved their first opinion. The Nanchang had comfortable quarters for two passengers, with a liberal table. The cargo consisted of Chinese wine, nuts and bones, which latter are utilised for some process in refining 419 sugar. We ourselves never approved of the process, for on a roughish day the odours from these bones were not always welcome.
The following morning, the 6th December, we rose to find ourselves almost blocked in with white drifting masses of ice—quite a Nansenic scene. It seemed as though we could have walked for miles over the sea. Our weather-beaten skipper far from cheered us when he began to narrate32 how, a year or two ago, he had been caught by the winter just in the same way, and his ship had been blocked for some months. He graphically33 told us how they used to walk to shore, and of the jolly parties they had at the Taku Hotel! Our heads, however, were turned in a different direction; we were bound to return to India with the least possible delay, and we shuddered34 to think of our fate. Providentially the weather changed, our last cargo of bones was brought on board, as well as a third and welcome passenger, Mr. Carville, of the Consulate35 Service. By 5 p.m. we were once more under weigh, steaming some ten knots an hour.
Here, again, Esau and Lassoo began to enjoy a new experience, for they had never seen a big boat. Shahzad Mir had certainly seen one, though he had never made a voyage. Amongst other topics, on cold, still nights, on that vast expanse of unknown land, we had told them of the big ships, and their faces had brightened up as they pictured the leisure, comfort, and ample supply of everything that was in store for them. But, alas! the next morning, with a beam sea on, the three men lay prone36, miserable37, and unable to eat, while around lay the box of cigars we had provided them with. Poor fellows! they wished they were back again on the Chang, even along the shore of one of those dreary38 salt lakes. Though smiling at their unfortunate plight39, we sincerely pitied them, and felt that it was but a poor return, after all the troubles and 420 privations they had undergone for us. We were heartily40 glad to find the beam sea was of but short duration, and with its abatement41 our three men revived sufficiently42 to enjoy the remainder of the voyage to Hong Kong.
LASSOO AND ESAU.
Landing at Quarry43 Bay at daybreak on the 12th of December, we then embarked44 on a small steamer, which speedily carried us up the beautiful harbour to one of the wharfs45. From thence we made our way to the Hong Kong Hotel, and learnt there was a boat, the Suisang, leaving for Calcutta that very day at noon. 421 All thoughts of visiting Canton were put aside—before even we had managed to fit ourselves out for this last stage of our travels, we had embarked on board this fine boat; but whatever requirement we had been unable to procure46 during so short a time our generous skipper, Captain Galsworthy, was only too anxious to provide. Our voyage was as pleasant as it is possible for a voyage at sea to be.
On the 18th of December we touched at Singapore, where we thoroughly47 enjoyed the ever-ready hospitality of the 1st Battalion48 Rifle Brigade, who were quartered there. A dinner at mess, a stroll afterwards in the magnificent gardens, as we listened meanwhile to the music of their fine band, told us only too surely that our journey was drawing to a close.
On the 21st we touched at Penang, of well-known beauty, where the hospitality of the detachment of the Rifle Brigade quartered there was only equalled by that we had enjoyed at Singapore.
On Sunday, the 27th December, about 8 a.m., we were waiting for a pilot to come and take us safely up the Hoogly. As we gingerly glided49 up this changeable river we passed several boats outward bound. From each we endeavoured, by shouting, to learn the latest news, namely, who had won the Viceroy's Cup. Finally, a sportsman from some cargo boat, determined50 that we should know, shouted out as few men can, for we just heard "Patiala's Sprightly51." At evening we had come to anchor, and early the next morning were once more back in India.
It was no small pleasure to Malcolm and me to see the delight of our three faithful followers, as they proudly tramped through the busy streets of Calcutta with money in their pockets to buy whatever their minds should fancy—they were, indeed, a conspicuous52 little party, with their weather-worn faces, and apparel made up from bits bought 422 at all the places we had been to; with the astonishment53, too, depicted54 on the faces of Esau and Lassoo, and the well-earned swagger that our Duffadar wore, as he explained this and that to his two bewildered companions.
But, apart from their outward appearance, which made them so conspicuous amongst the Calcutta citizens, still greater notice would have been taken of them had it been known how willingly and faithfully they had served us under circumstances and at times which must have been far more trying to them than to ourselves. Like our predecessor55, Bower56, we found the hardest task of our journey was to part with these three followers. Good fellows, how glad they were to be allowed to keep the enamelled plates which we had carried for so many miles, not so much to eat from as for digging holes in our continual search for water!
Duffadar Shahzad Mir, who all through had worked with unrivalled determination, joined his regiment57, the 11th Bengal Lancers, at Nowshera, while Esau and Lassoo returned to their homes in Leh. Wherever they may be, they will at any rate have two friends in the world who can never forget them.
The End
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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sleepers
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| n.卧铺（通常以复数形式出现）；卧车( sleeper的名词复数 )；轨枕；睡觉（呈某种状态）的人；小耳环 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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outweighed
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| v.在重量上超过( outweigh的过去式和过去分词 )；在重要性或价值方面超过 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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banking
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| n.银行业，银行学，金融业 | |
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waggon
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| n.运货马车，运货车；敞篷车箱 | |
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chestnuts
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| n.栗子( chestnut的名词复数 )；栗色；栗树；栗色马 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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extraordinarily
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| adv.格外地；极端地 | |
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cargo
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| n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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tug
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| v.用力拖(或拉)；苦干；n.拖；苦干；拖船 | |
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lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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tardy
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| adj.缓慢的，迟缓的 | |
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tugged
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| v.用力拉，使劲拉，猛扯( tug的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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scrambled
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的过去式和过去分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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barricaded
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| 设路障于，以障碍物阻塞( barricade的过去式和过去分词 )； 设路障[防御工事]保卫或固守 | |
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uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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25
wrath
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| n.愤怒，愤慨，暴怒 | |
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hubbub
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| n.嘈杂；骚乱 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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vent
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| n.通风口，排放口；开衩；vt.表达，发泄 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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narrate
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| v.讲，叙述 | |
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graphically
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| adv.通过图表；生动地，轮廓分明地 | |
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shuddered
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| v.战栗( shudder的过去式和过去分词 )；发抖；（机器、车辆等）突然震动；颤动 | |
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consulate
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| n.领事馆 | |
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prone
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| adj.(to)易于…的，很可能…的；俯卧的 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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plight
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| n.困境，境况，誓约，艰难；vt.宣誓，保证，约定 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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abatement
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| n.减(免)税，打折扣，冲销 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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43
quarry
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| n.采石场；v.采石；费力地找 | |
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44
embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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45
wharfs
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| 码头，停泊处 | |
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46
procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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47
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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48
battalion
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| n.营；部队；大队(的人) | |
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49
glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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50
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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51
sprightly
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| adj.愉快的，活泼的 | |
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52
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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53
astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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54
depicted
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| 描绘，描画( depict的过去式和过去分词 )； 描述 | |
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55
predecessor
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| n.前辈，前任 | |
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56
bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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regiment
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| n.团，多数，管理；v.组织，编成团，统制 | |
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