If you can imagine a cloudless sky of a deep blue colour, a sea so smooth that not a ripple1 is visible, and so clear that you can look down into it and see the dark rocks and the sandy bottom and strangely shaped fish swimming idly about amongst bushes of seaweed, which wave and curl with the ebb2 of the tide; and floating masses of jelly which occasionally double themselves into balls and then become floating masses again. If you can picture all this you will have an idea how clear the waters of the South Seas are when the sky is cloudless. The hot sun is overhead, and the still air is full of a sweet fragrance3. Just above you you will see a frigate4 bird sailing lazily about, and by the sea shore just a faint ripple and a line of white show {58} you quaint5 and picturesque6 canoes—not the ordinary mere7 dug-out things which are so narrow in body that there is only room for a medium-sized man to sit, but long curiously8 shaped ones with poles stretching across and extended far out over the side; they are slightly arched, and at the end there is a log which rests in the water and lies parallel to the boat.
These outriggers are queer constructions, but no sea can upset a boat possessing them, and with the light shining full on the bright skins of their half-naked occupants, they look still more eccentric. To see a dozen of these queer craft being swiftly paddled through the water by men with bushy heads and fine massive bodies, and women more nude10 than dressed, but with their hair cropped close to their skulls11, is not a sight to be seen everywhere, and well repays all the thousand little disadvantages that journeying to these parts entails12.
There is a safety in an outrigger canoe that one cannot feel in ordinary native boats. There is not the same swift movement that one experiences when skimming through the water rowed by a half-dozen muscular Maoris in their light-built canoes, or flying down rapids in a Canadian canoe, but in place of it there is the calm repose13 of absolute security, and at times this latter condition is not to be scorned, especially when every moment you can see the fin9 of a shark rise out of the water. Clumsy looking as these boats are, it is wonderful what complete control the natives have over them, how swiftly they swing them round or skim them between dangerous rocks, and dash over the surf through waves that would swamp and capsize an average lifeboat. These irresponsible creatures paddle on through the worst of waters, laughing at the spray as it breaks over them, and shouting with glee as they mount the great waves, which carry them high and dry on to the shore.
Then the stately Lakatois with their queer-shaped sails, looking as unlike sails as the body of a boat is unlike a canoe. They resemble an elongated14 kite with a semicircle cut out of the top, and if you saw one for the first time coming towards you on a dark night, it would give you a fright, so grotesque15 and weird16 is it. In daylight, however, its horrors disappear and the ingeniousness of its construction appeals to you; after watching it sailing placidly17 out to sea, steered18 as easily as any yacht, a feeling of admiration19 for the savage20 inventor of it comes over you.
To explain its construction would be a task too difficult for me, but, roughly, it consists of two or three large canoes lashed21 together and boarded over. On these boards is a kind of barn cut down and spread out considerably22. This is used both for shelter and for carrying the pots and articles of barter23. From the centre of this raft-like barge24 the two enormous sails project straight into the air; the two horn-like points of the top are decorated with long streamers; whilst others ornament25 the sails, making it look like a carnival26 barge. How the wind is caught or how the boats are moved about is a mystery to any but those who work them; if you ask a native he will explain it all to you: “He good fellow belong salt water, go easy.” And that is as much information as I can give. So with this vivid, though somewhat technical description of how the boat travels, you too must be satisfied, and look rather at its beauty than its ways of working.
The method of building canoes in these parts is interesting. A log of soft wood is obtained from an up-country tribe in exchange for fish or some other produce, and its outside is shaped by means of an ordinary English axe27, while the inside is hewn out with the native stone adzes. These {61} they still prefer for delicate work, though they often attach the head of them to an ordinary axe handle. When a sufficiently28 deep hollow is made, the native lights a fire in it and works it about until the rough edges are smoothed down and other faults are rectified29.
Firing is also used to finish the outside, and if the fire goes out, or anything but a perfect result is finally obtained, they put the cause of it down to some accident, or wrong action which they have done in their youth. Nearly all their calamities30 are thus explained.
The small canoes when finished often have the outriggers completely boarded over, thus turning them into big rafts, and making them capable of carrying enormous quantities of barter; for it is by boat they carry their goods from village to village along the coast. The Lakatois are always used for long trips, and carry big crews, being often loaded to their full carrying capacity. When leaving Port Moresby for these periodical trips they carry pottery31 and exchange it for sago and other food.
The pottery industry flourishes at Port Moresby, and at most times it is possible to see the women at work. Men never assist them in this industry; generally very thin old hags seem to superintend all the most difficult part of the work. The clay used for it is, I believe, a natural clay brought down from the interior and exchanged for some other article. Instead of using a pottery wheel, each pot is literally32 built up from the inside and rounded with a stick or by hand—the sphere getting larger and larger, whilst the inside, towards the top, gets smaller. When finished a fire is lit and stones built up over it, and directly the right heat is obtained, the newly made pot is placed on them and baked.
Nearly all the cooking is done in these contrivances, and they seem capable of standing33 any heat as well as a good deal of rough usage.
Sago, yams, bananas, sweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, and fish are the staple34 foods which the New Guinea natives fatten35 on. The fish is often smoked and cooked in the earthenware36 pots or eaten raw. The method of smoking it varies, but generally it is roughly done in a hut.
Owing to the extensive coral reefs all round these islands, fishing by means of nets is a difficult task, and one that does not often pay, as they get torn to pieces on the reefs. Line fishing suffers from the same disadvantage, so that when a big haul of ground fish is wanted a method introduced by the traders is adopted—fishing with dynamite37. This sounds somewhat peculiar38, but it is most effective.
Directly a shoal of fish is seen a charge of dynamite is exploded in the water, which has a most disastrous39 effect on the fish, as it stuns40 all within a tremendous distance of the discharge. Boats are then run out, and with the aid of the natives the unconscious fish are picked up and thrown into them.
The Papuans thoroughly41 enjoy the sport, and dive and swim after the floating things with great glee, laughing, and the shouting and splashing as they swim through the water with a fish in their mouth and one in each hand, is tremendous. On reaching the boat they throw them in and are away again as quick as lightning after more.
Spearing is another method the natives have, for which purpose they erect42 platforms in the water. The fisher will stand on this platform with a long spear in his hand attached to which is a long thin cord. Holding the spear in the air, ready to throw, he waits like a statue till his eyes catch sight of a big fish in the clear waters beneath. Then suddenly you see the spear fly from his hand, and the next minute he is yelling {64} with delight and hauling in a struggling fish at the end of his spear.
The young natives are also fond of shooting fish, and go off in parties armed with bows and arrows, seldom returning without a good bag.
One often hears extraordinary tales of fishermen, and perhaps there is none better than the one told by Jerome K. Jerome of the plaster cast that every one claimed to have caught, but even this has to take a back seat when you are first told that a man has seen fish climbing trees. But in spite of the apparent tallness of such a yarn43 it is nevertheless true. In New Guinea these piscatorical gymnasts can be seen, and Mr. Hardy44, when visiting Tupusuli (one of the most unique marine45 villages in New Guinea, lying a few hours’ sail south of Port Moresby), had the pleasure of seeing these fish at their exercises.
The trip was an interesting one and worth relating. At the invitation of the Rev46. Dr. Brown, whose missionary47 work in these parts is well known, Mr. Hardy accompanied him on a trip down the coast to Tupusuli. Among the doctor’s guests were Dr. Wyllie who was out there on scientific work, Prof. von Yost, a German journalist who at certain times claimed direct relationship to {65} Bismarck, and a few others who also can verify the following, as they too were among the party. It was a jolly expedition, and the yacht, which belonged to Dr. Chalmers the head of the missionaries48 in New Guinea, was captained by a Raratongan chief who was noted49 for his enormous strength. The scenery along the coast is wild and broken; here and there little villages backed by palm groves50 can be seen, and natives running about on the shore add to the beauty of the scene.
Tupusuli lies in a little bay, and is protected from intrusion by coral reefs and mud-banks, but the yacht safely man?uvred these, and then the village came in sight. At low tide it looks extremely weird, as some of the huts are built on very high piles a considerable distance from the shore, right out in the mud. The village proper is also completely surrounded by water at high tide; behind it is a row of splendid palms, and a broad street dividing some huts where the men are generally seen canoe-making. As the tide was out when the yacht anchored, the party had to be taken off in the gig and landed on the nearest mud-bank, from which they waded51 into the village.
On the way they passed a clump52 of mangroves, partly surrounded by water, and it was here these {66} quaint little fishes were seen climbing up the bark of the mangoes. In appearance they look like a very small mackerel, though the head is rounder and more nobby, and from the breast two little legs, like those of a caterpillar53, protrude54. The tail and fins55 are exactly the same as those of other small fish. They seemed very shy, and on the approach of the strangers they scuttled56 down the trunk and sprang back into a pool of water at the foot of the tree, and nothing would induce them to show up again. Here at Tupusuli are the ruins of an old Dubu house, which looks as if it had been an exceedingly large one.
After examining the canoes and many of the houses the party made their way back to the gig, and as the tide was now in they had not far to walk. On reaching the yacht, however, it was found that the anchor had got jammed, and as the wind was blowing pretty hard and the tide running in, the captain feared that they would go aground on a very nasty reef unless they got away quickly. All hands were brought to bear on the chain, but to their horror they found that their pulling was of no avail; all the time the yacht was swinging round and getting dangerously near the reef. Suddenly from the shore a dozen canoes were seen coming out {67} full pelt57. The natives had guessed what was wrong and were rowing out to help. Soon the water was black with canoes, and the shouts of the natives were almost deafening58. At last they were alongside, and one standing in the bow of his boat looked up at our captain. “Me fix him, captain, you get anchor all right,” he shouted, and the next instant he had dived head foremost under the yacht. No sooner was he out of sight than another followed, and so on till the water was in a regular foam59 with diving and swimming natives, there must have been dozens of them, whilst crowds of others hung round in their canoes anxiously watching for their comrades to come up and report progress. As each woolly pate60 shot out of the water the watchers called out questions, but without answering they dived again—they had only come up for breath—and neither the party nor the natives were able to find out what was wrong. After nearly ten minutes’ work they all came up, and their disappointed faces told the tale. It was no good, the anchor was completely jammed, and in spite of all their efforts these good fellows could do nothing.
To save the yacht from grounding the chain had to be cut, and shortly after that the yacht rode out {68} of the bay clear of the rocks, amid the cheers of the natives.
Jamming of anchors in these parts is not an uncommon61 experience, and to avoid losing them many skippers carry a charge of dynamite about with them, which they slide down the anchor chain at the end of a piece of slack rope. If the charge is timed properly and all goes well, the coral, between which the anchor is fixed62, is blown to smithereens. Some skippers, however, have had any but pleasant results from this experiment, and have not only lost their anchor but considerably damaged their boats.
点击收听单词发音
1 ripple | |
n.涟波,涟漪,波纹,粗钢梳;vt.使...起涟漪,使起波纹; vi.呈波浪状,起伏前进 | |
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2 ebb | |
vi.衰退,减退;n.处于低潮,处于衰退状态 | |
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3 fragrance | |
n.芬芳,香味,香气 | |
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4 frigate | |
n.护航舰,大型驱逐舰 | |
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5 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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6 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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7 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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8 curiously | |
adv.有求知欲地;好问地;奇特地 | |
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9 fin | |
n.鳍;(飞机的)安定翼 | |
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10 nude | |
adj.裸体的;n.裸体者,裸体艺术品 | |
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11 skulls | |
颅骨( skull的名词复数 ); 脑袋; 脑子; 脑瓜 | |
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12 entails | |
使…成为必要( entail的第三人称单数 ); 需要; 限定继承; 使必需 | |
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13 repose | |
v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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14 elongated | |
v.延长,加长( elongate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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15 grotesque | |
adj.怪诞的,丑陋的;n.怪诞的图案,怪人(物) | |
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16 weird | |
adj.古怪的,离奇的;怪诞的,神秘而可怕的 | |
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17 placidly | |
adv.平稳地,平静地 | |
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18 steered | |
v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 );操纵;控制;引导 | |
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19 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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20 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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21 lashed | |
adj.具睫毛的v.鞭打( lash的过去式和过去分词 );煽动;紧系;怒斥 | |
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22 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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23 barter | |
n.物物交换,以货易货,实物交易 | |
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24 barge | |
n.平底载货船,驳船 | |
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25 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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26 carnival | |
n.嘉年华会,狂欢,狂欢节,巡回表演 | |
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27 axe | |
n.斧子;v.用斧头砍,削减 | |
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28 sufficiently | |
adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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29 rectified | |
[医]矫正的,调整的 | |
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30 calamities | |
n.灾祸,灾难( calamity的名词复数 );不幸之事 | |
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31 pottery | |
n.陶器,陶器场 | |
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32 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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33 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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34 staple | |
n.主要产物,常用品,主要要素,原料,订书钉,钩环;adj.主要的,重要的;vt.分类 | |
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35 fatten | |
v.使肥,变肥 | |
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36 earthenware | |
n.土器,陶器 | |
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37 dynamite | |
n./vt.(用)炸药(爆破) | |
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38 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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39 disastrous | |
adj.灾难性的,造成灾害的;极坏的,很糟的 | |
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40 stuns | |
v.击晕( stun的第三人称单数 );使大吃一惊;给(某人)以深刻印象;使深深感动 | |
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41 thoroughly | |
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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42 erect | |
n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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43 yarn | |
n.纱,纱线,纺线;奇闻漫谈,旅行轶事 | |
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44 hardy | |
adj.勇敢的,果断的,吃苦的;耐寒的 | |
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45 marine | |
adj.海的;海生的;航海的;海事的;n.水兵 | |
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46 rev | |
v.发动机旋转,加快速度 | |
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47 missionary | |
adj.教会的,传教(士)的;n.传教士 | |
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48 missionaries | |
n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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49 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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50 groves | |
树丛,小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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51 waded | |
(从水、泥等)蹚,走过,跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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52 clump | |
n.树丛,草丛;vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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53 caterpillar | |
n.毛虫,蝴蝶的幼虫 | |
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54 protrude | |
v.使突出,伸出,突出 | |
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55 fins | |
[医]散热片;鱼鳍;飞边;鸭掌 | |
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56 scuttled | |
v.使船沉没( scuttle的过去式和过去分词 );快跑,急走 | |
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57 pelt | |
v.投掷,剥皮,抨击,开火 | |
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58 deafening | |
adj. 振耳欲聋的, 极喧闹的 动词deafen的现在分词形式 | |
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59 foam | |
v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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60 pate | |
n.头顶;光顶 | |
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61 uncommon | |
adj.罕见的,非凡的,不平常的 | |
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62 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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