"Comtois, rends-toi,
Nenni, ma foi."
Our journey, of four hours, takes us through a succession of grandiose10 and charming prospects11, and lonely little villages, at which we pick up letters, and drop numbers of Le Petit Journal, probably all the literature they get. Gorge13, crag, lake and ravine, valley, river, and cascade14, pine forests crowning sombre ridges, broad hill-sides alive with the tinkling15 of cattle bells, pastoral scenes separating frowning peaks, all these we have to rejoice the eye and much more. The beautiful Lake of Challin, we only see in the distance, though most enticingly16 inviting17 nearer inspection18, and all this valley of the Ain might, indeed, detain the tourist several days. The river Ain has its source near Champagnole, and flows through a broad beautiful valley southwards, but the only way to get an idea of the geography of the place is to climb a mountain, maps avail little.
On alighting at the H?tel Dumont, the sight of an elegant landlady19, in spotless white morning gown, was re-assuring, and when I was conducted to a bedroom with bells, clean floors, proper washing apparatus20, and other comforts, my heart quite leapt. There is nothing to see at Champagnole but the saw-mills, the "click, click" of which you hear at every turn. Saw-making by machinery21 is the principal industry here, and is worth inspecting. But if the town itself is uninteresting, it offers a variety of delicious walks and drives, and must be a very healthy summer resort, being five hundred yards above the level of the plain. I went a little way on the road to Les Planches, and nothing could be more solemnly beautiful than the black pines pricking22 against the deep blue sky, and the golden light playing on the ferns and pine-stems below; before us, a vista23 of deep gorge and purple mountain chain, on either side the solemn serried24 lines of the forest. The good pedestrian should follow this road to Les Planches, as splendid a walk as any in the Jura. No less delightful25, though in a different way, is the winding26 walk by the river. The Ain here rushes past with a torrent27 like thunder, and rolls and tosses over a stony28 bed, having on either side green slopes and shady ways. Those travellers, like myself, contented29 with a bit of modest mountaineering, will delight in the three hours' climb of Mount Rivol, a broad pyramidal mountain, eight hundred yards in height, dominating the town. A very beautiful walk is this for fairly good walkers, and though the sun is intense, the air is sharp and penetrating30. On our way, we find plenty of ripe wild mulberries with which to refresh ourselves, and abundance of the blue-fringed gentian to delight our eyes.
So steep are these mountain sides, that it is like scaling a wall, but after an hour and a half we are rewarded by finding ourselves on the top; a broad plateau covering many acres richly cultivated, with farm-buildings in the centre. Here we enjoy one of those magnificent panoramas31 so plentiful32 in the Jura, and which must be seen to be realized. On one side we have the verdant33 valley of the Ain, the river flowing gently through green fields and softly dimpled hills; on another, Andelot with its bridge and the lofty rocks bristling34 round Salins; on the third side, the road leading to Pontarlier amid pine-forest and limestone35 crags, and above this, a sight more majestic36 still, namely, the vast parallel ranges of the Jura, deepest purple, crested37 in the far away distance with a silvery peak whose name takes our very breath away. We are gazing on Mont Blanc! a sight as grandiose and inspiring as the distant glimpse of the Pyramids from Cairo! We would fain have lingered long before this glorious picture, but the air was too cold to admit of a halt after our heating walk in the blazing sun. The great drawback to travelling in the Jura, indeed, is this terrible fickleness39 of climate. As a rule, even thus early in the autumn, you are obliged to make several toilettes a day, putting on winter clothes when you get up, and towards mid-day exchanging them for the lightest summer attire40 till sunset, when again you need the warmest clothing. Winter sets in very early here, there is no spring, properly speaking; five months of fine warm weather have to be set against seven of frost and snow; yet in spite of the bitterness and long duration of these winters, little or no provision seems to be made against the cold. There are no carpets, curtains, and generally no fire-places in the bedrooms, all is cold, cool, and bare as in Egypt, and many are approached from without. The people must enjoy a wonderful vigour41 of health and robustness42 of constitution, or they could not resist such hardships as these, and what a Jura winter is, makes one shudder43 to think of. Snow lies often twelve feet deep on the road, and journeys are performed by sledges44, as in Russia.
I took the diligence from Champagnole to Morez, and it is as yet the only ill-advised thing I have done on this journey. The fact is, and intending travellers should note it, that there are only three modes of travelling in these parts, firstly, by hiring a private carriage and telegraphing for relays; secondly45, by accomplishing short stages on foot, by far the most agreeable method for hardy46 pedestrians47, or thirdly, to give up the most interesting spots altogether. The diligence must not be taken into account as a means of locomotion48 at all, for as there is no competition, and French people are much too amiable49 or indifferent to make complaints, the truth must be told, that the so-called Messageries du Jura are about as badly managed as can possibly be. Unfortunate travellers are not only so cramped51 that they arrive at their destination more dead than alive, but even in the coupé they see nothing of the country. Thus the glorious bit of country we passed through from Champagnole to Morez was entirely52 lost on me, simply because the diligence is not a public conveyance53, but an instrument of torture. The so-called coupé was so small, warm and low, that the three unfortunate occupants of it, a stout54 gentleman, a nun55, and myself, were so closely wedged in that we could not stir a limb, whilst the narrow slice of landscape before us was hidden by the driver and two other passengers, all three of whom smoked incessantly56. There were several equally unfortunate travellers packed in the body of the carriage, and others outside on the top of the luggage, all arriving at their destination feeling much as if they had been subjected to the bastinado! Nothing could be worse, and whilst the heat was intense for the first part of the journey, the latter part was bitterly cold, yet it was impossible to move one's arm in order to draw on a wrap. Cold, heat, cramp50, and dejection are the portion of those who trust themselves to the accursed Messageries du Jura.
My sufferings were alleviated57 by the nun, who managed to extract some fruit from her basket and handed me a pear and a peach. I had said so many hard things about nuns58 during my life, that I hesitated, but the fleshly temptation was too strong, and I greedily accepted the drop of water held out in the desert. To my great relief afterwards, I found that my companion was not occupied in cooking up theology for the detriment59 of others, but in the far more innocent task of making soups and sauces. In fact, she was cook to the establishment to which she belonged, and a very homely60, excellent soul she seemed. She turned from her pears and peaches to her prayer-book and rosary with equal delectation. It was harrowing to think that during these five hours we were passing through some of the most romantic scenery of the Jura, yet all we could do, by occasionally stretching out our necks, was to get a glance at the lovely lakes, pine-topped heights, deep gorges61, gigantic cliffs towering to the sky, adorable little cascades62 springing from silvery mountain-sides, gold-green table-lands lying between hoary63 peaks; everything delightful was there, could we but see! Meantime, we had been climbing ever since we quitted Champagnole, and at one point marked by a stone, were a thousand yards above the sea-level. The little villages perched on the mountain-tops that we were passing through, are all seats of industry; clock manufactories, fromageries, or cheese-farms on a large scale, and so on.
The population indeed depends, not upon agriculture, but upon industries for support, and many of the wares65 fabricated in these isolated67 Jura villages find their way all over the world. From St. Laurent, where we stopped to change horses, the traveller who is indifferent to cramps68, bruises69 and contortions70, may exchange diligences, and instead of taking the shorter and straighter road to St. Claude, may follow the more picturesque71 route by way of the wonderful little lake of Grandvaux, shut in by mountains, and peopled with fish of all kinds, water-hens, and other wild birds. We are now in the wildest and most grandiose region of the Jura, and whichever road we take is sure to lead us through grand scenery. But much as I had heard of the savage72 beauty of Grandvaux, further subjection to the torture we were thus enduring was not to be thought of, so we went straight on to Morez, after the tremendous ascent73 I have just described, our road curving quickly downwards74, and coming all at once on the long straggling little town, framed in by lofty mountains on every side.
Next morning was Sunday, and I went in search of the Protestant school-house, where I knew a kind welcome awaited me. I was delighted to find a new handsome building, standing75 conspicuously76 in a pleasant garden, over the doors, engraved77 in large letters, "Culte et Ecole Evangélique." The sound of childrens' voices told me that some kind of lesson or prayer was going on, so I waited in the garden till the doors opened and a dozen neatly78 dressed boys and girls poured out. Then I went in, and found the wife of the schoolmaster and scripture-reader, a sweet young woman, who, in her husband's absence, had been holding a Bible class. She showed me over the place, and an exquisitely79 clean quiet little room she had prepared for me, but as I had arrived rather late on the night before, I had taken a room at the hotel, which was neither noisy nor uncomfortable. We spent the afternoon together, and as we walked along the beautiful mountain road that superb September Sunday, many interesting things she told me of her husband's labours in their isolated mountain home. Protestantism is indeed here a tender plant, exposed to the cold blast of adverse80 winds, but if it takes healthy root, well will it be for the social, moral, and intellectual advancement81 of the people. We must never lose sight of the fact that, putting theology out of the question, Protestantism means morality, hygiene82, instruction, and above all, a high standard of truth and family life; and on these grounds, if on no other, all really concerned in the future and well-being83 of France must wish it God-speed.
This is not the place for a comparison between Protestantism and Catholicism, even as social influences, but one thing I must insist upon, namely, that it is only necessary to live among French Protestants and compare what we find there with what we find among their Catholic neighbours, to feel how uncompromisingly the first are the promoters of progress, and the latter its adversaries84.
The position of Morez is heavenly beautiful, but the town itself hideous85. Nature having put the finishing touch to her choice handiwork, man has come in to mar64 and spoil the whole. The mountains, clothed with brightest green, rise grandly towards the sky, but all along the narrow gorge of the Bienne, in which Morez lies, stand closely compacted masses of many storied manufactories and congeries of dark, unattractive houses. There is hardly a garden, a chalet, or villa12 to redeem86 the prevailing87, crushing ugliness; yet, for all that, if you can once get over the profound sadness induced by this strange contrast, nothing can be more delightful and exhilarating than the mountain environment of this little seat of industry. Morez, indeed, is a black diamond set in richest gold. The place abounds89 in cafés, and on this Sunday afternoon, when all the manufactories are closed, the cafés are full to overflowing90, and on the lovely suburban91 road, winding above the mountains, we meet few working-men with their families enjoying a walk. The cabaret absorbs them all.
The working hours here are terribly long; from five o'clock in the morning till seven at night, the bulk of the population are at their posts, men, women, and young people—children, I was going to say—but fortunately public opinion is stepping in to prevent the abuse of juvenile92 labour so prevalent, and good laws on the subject will, it is hoped, ere long be enacted93. The wages are low, three or four francs a-day being the maximum, and as the cost of living is high here, it is only by the conjoint labours of all the members of a household that it can be kept together. Squalor and unthrift abound88, and there are no founders94 of cités ouvrières to make the workman's home what it should be. He is badly housed as well as being badly paid, and no wonder that the café and the cabaret are seized upon as the only recreations for what leisure he gets. It is quite worth while—for those travellers who ever stay a whole week anywhere—to stay a week here in order to see the curious industries which feed the entire population of the town and neighbouring villages, and are known all over the commercial world. The chief objects of manufacture are spectacle-glasses, spits, clocks, nails, electro-plate, drawn-wire, shop-plates in iron and enamel95, files, and dish-covers; but of these the three first are by far the most important. Several hundred thousand spectacle glasses and clocks, and sixty thousand spits, are fabricated here yearly, and all three branches of industry afford curious matter for inquiry96. Thus the first of spectacle-making, or lunetterie, resolves itself into a scientific study of noses! it will easily be seen that the manufacturer of spectacles on a grand scale must take into account the physiognomies of the different nations which import his wares. A long-nosed people will require one shaped pair of spectacles, an aquilline-nosed another, a nez retroussé a third; and accordingly we find that spectacles nicely adjusted to such peculiarities97 are fabricated, one kind supplying the American, a second the Spanish, a third the English market, and so on. So wonderfully quick is the process that a pair of spectacles can be made for three-halfpence! The clocks made by machinery at Morez are chiefly of the cheap kind, but wear well, and are to be found in almost every cottage in France. The prices vary from ten to twenty francs, and are thus within reach of the poorest. A more expensive kind are found in churches, public offices, schools, railway-stations, and manufactories, not only in France, but in remote quarters of the world. Spain largely imports these elegant inexpensive clocks fabricated in the heart of the Jura, and they find their way to China! Each separate part has its separate workshop, and the whole is a marvellous exhibition of dexterity98, quickness, and apt division of labour.
A large manufactory of electrotype plate, modelled on those of England, notably99 the Elkington ware66, has been founded here within recent years, and is very flourishing, exporting on a vast scale to remote countries. There is a manufactory of electric clocks, also of recent date. All day long, therefore, the solemn silence of these mountains is broken by the noise of mill-wheels and rushing waters, and if it is the manufactories that feed the people, it is the rivers that feed the manufactories. The Jura, indeed, may be said to depend on its running streams and rivers for its wealth, each and all a Pactolus in its way, flowing over sands of gold. Nowhere has water power been turned to better account than at Morez, where a very Ariel, it is forced by that all-omnipotent Prospero man, the machine-maker, to do his behests, here turning a wheel, there flowing into the channels prepared for it, and on every side dispensing100 riches and civilization.
Delightful and refreshing101 it is to get beyond reach of these never-resting mill-wheels, and follow the mountain-torrent and the rushing streams to their home, where they are at liberty and untamed. Innumerable delicious haunts are to be found in the neighbourhood of Morez, also exhilarating panoramas of the Jura and Switzerland from the mountain-tops. There is nothing to be called agriculture, for in our gradual ascent we have alternately left behind us the vine, corn, maize102, walnuts103 and other fruit trees, reaching the zone of the gentian, the box-tree, the larch104, and the pine. These apparently105 arid106 limestone slopes and summits, however, have velvety107 patches here and there, and such scattered108 pastures are a source of almost incredible wealth. The famous Jura cheese, Gruyère so called, is made in the isolated chalets perched on the crest38 of a ravine, and nestled in the heart of a valley, which for the seven winter months are abandoned, and throughout the other five swarm109 like bee-hives with industrious110 workers. As soon as the snow melts, the peasants return to the mountains, but in winter all is silent, solitary111, and enveloped112 in an impenetrable veil of snow. The very high-roads are imperceptible then, and the village sacristan rings the church bells in order to guide the belated traveller to his home.
My friend, the schoolmaster's wife, found me agreeable travelling companions for the three hours' drive to St. Claude, which we made in a private carriage, in order to see the country. Very nice people they were, Catholics belonging to the petite bourgeoisie, and much useful information they gave me about things and people in their native province. The weather is perfect, with a warm south wind, a bright blue sky, and feathery clouds subduing113 the dazzling heavens. We get a good notion of the Jura in its sterner and more arid aspect during this zig-zag drive, first mounting, then descending115. Far away, the brown bare mountain ridges rise against the clear heavens, whilst just below we see steep wooded crags dipping into a gorge where the little river Bienne curls on its impetuous way. There are no less than three parallel roads at different levels from Morez to St. Claude, and curious it was from our airy height—we had chosen the highest—to survey the others, the one cut along the mountain flank midway, the other winding deep down close to the river-side. These splendid roads are kept in order by the Communes, which are often rich in this Department, possessing large tracts of forest. I never anywhere saw roads so magnificently kept, and, of course, this acids greatly to the comfort of travellers. Were the roads bad, indeed, what would become of them?
After climbing for an hour we suddenly begin to descend114, our road sweeping116 round the mountain sides with tremendous curves for about two hours or more, when all of a sudden we seemed to swoop117 down upon St. Claude, the little bishopric in the heart of the mountains. The effect was magical. We appeared to have been plunged118 from the top of the world to the bottom! In fact, you go up and down such tremendous heights in the Jura that I should think it must be much like travelling in a balloon.
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tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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scant
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| adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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essentially
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| adv.本质上，实质上，基本上 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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lateral
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| adj.侧面的，旁边的 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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warfare
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| n.战争(状态)；斗争；冲突 | |
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grandiose
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| adj.宏伟的，宏大的，堂皇的，铺张的 | |
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prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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cascade
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| n.小瀑布，喷流；层叠；vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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enticingly
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inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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landlady
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| n.女房东，女地主 | |
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apparatus
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| n.装置，器械；器具，设备 | |
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machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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pricking
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| 刺，刺痕，刺痛感 | |
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vista
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| n.远景，深景，展望，回想 | |
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serried
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| adj.拥挤的；密集的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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penetrating
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| adj.（声音）响亮的，尖锐的adj.（气味）刺激的adj.（思想）敏锐的，有洞察力的 | |
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panoramas
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| 全景画( panorama的名词复数 )； 全景照片； 一连串景象或事 | |
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plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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bristling
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| a.竖立的 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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crested
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| adj.有顶饰的，有纹章的，有冠毛的v.到达山顶（或浪峰）( crest的过去式和过去分词 )；到达洪峰，达到顶点 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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fickleness
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| n.易变；无常；浮躁；变化无常 | |
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attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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vigour
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| （=vigor）n.智力，体力，精力 | |
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robustness
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| 坚固性，健壮性；鲁棒性 | |
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shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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44
sledges
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| n.雪橇，雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 )；用雪橇运载 | |
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45
secondly
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| adv.第二，其次 | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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pedestrians
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| n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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locomotion
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| n.运动，移动 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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cramp
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| n.痉挛；[pl.](腹)绞痛；vt.限制，束缚 | |
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51
cramped
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| a.狭窄的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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53
conveyance
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| n.(不动产等的)转让，让与；转让证书；传送；运送；表达；（正）运输工具 | |
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nun
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| n.修女，尼姑 | |
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incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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alleviated
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| 减轻，缓解，缓和( alleviate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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nuns
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| n.（通常指基督教的）修女， （佛教的）尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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detriment
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| n.损害；损害物，造成损害的根源 | |
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homely
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| adj.家常的，简朴的；不漂亮的 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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62
cascades
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| 倾泻( cascade的名词复数 )； 小瀑布（尤指一连串瀑布中的一支）； 瀑布状物； 倾泻（或涌出）的东西 | |
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hoary
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| adj.古老的；鬓发斑白的 | |
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mar
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| vt.破坏，毁坏，弄糟 | |
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65
wares
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| n. 货物, 商品 | |
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ware
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| n.(常用复数)商品，货物 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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68
cramps
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| n. 抽筋, 腹部绞痛, 铁箍 adj. 狭窄的, 难解的 v. 使...抽筋, 以铁箍扣紧, 束缚 | |
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bruises
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| n.瘀伤，伤痕，擦伤( bruise的名词复数 ) | |
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contortions
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| n.扭歪，弯曲；扭曲，弄歪，歪曲( contortion的名词复数 ) | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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conspicuously
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| ad.明显地，惹人注目地 | |
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engraved
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| v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的过去式和过去分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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adverse
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| adj.不利的；有害的；敌对的，不友好的 | |
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advancement
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| n.前进，促进，提升 | |
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82
hygiene
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| n.健康法，卫生学 （a.hygienic） | |
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well-being
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| n.安康，安乐，幸福 | |
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adversaries
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| n.对手，敌手( adversary的名词复数 ) | |
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85
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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redeem
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| v.买回，赎回，挽回，恢复，履行（诺言等） | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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abounds
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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overflowing
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| n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的，充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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suburban
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| adj.城郊的，在郊区的 | |
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juvenile
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| n.青少年，少年读物；adj.青少年的，幼稚的 | |
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enacted
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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founders
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| n.创始人( founder的名词复数 ) | |
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enamel
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| n.珐琅，搪瓷，瓷釉；(牙齿的)珐琅质 | |
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inquiry
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| n.打听，询问，调查，查问 | |
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peculiarities
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| n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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notably
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| adv.值得注意地，显著地，尤其地，特别地 | |
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100
dispensing
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| v.分配( dispense的现在分词 )；施与；配（药） | |
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101
refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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103
walnuts
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| 胡桃（树）( walnut的名词复数 )； 胡桃木 | |
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larch
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| n.落叶松 | |
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105
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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106
arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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107
velvety
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| adj. 像天鹅绒的, 轻软光滑的, 柔软的 | |
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108
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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109
swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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110
industrious
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| adj.勤劳的，刻苦的，奋发的 | |
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111
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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112
enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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113
subduing
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| 征服( subdue的现在分词 )； 克制； 制服； 色变暗 | |
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114
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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115
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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116
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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117
swoop
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| n.俯冲，攫取；v.抓取，突然袭击 | |
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118
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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