Approaching Shasta from the south, one obtains glimpses of its snowy cone here and there through the trees from the tops of hills and ridges19; but it is not until Strawberry Valley is reached, where there is a grand out-opening of the forests, that Shasta is seen in all its glory. From base to crown clearly revealed with its wealth of woods and waters and fountain snow, rejoicing in the bright mountain sky, and radiating beauty on all the subject landscape like a sun. Standing20 in a fringing thicket21 of purple spiraea in the immediate22 foreground is a smooth expanse of green meadow with its meandering23 stream, one of the smaller affluents24 of the Sacramento; then a zone of dark, close forest, its countless25 spires26 of pine and fir rising above one another on the swelling27 base of the mountain in glorious array; and, over all, the great white cone sweeping28 far into the thin, keen sky—meadow, forest, and grand icy summit harmoniously29 blending and making one sublime30 picture evenly balanced.
The main lines of the landscape are immensely bold and simple, and so regular that it needs all its shaggy wealth of woods and chaparral and its finely tinted31 ice and snow and brown jutting32 crags to keep it from looking conventional. In general views of the mountain three distinct zones may be readily defined. The first, which may be called the Chaparral Zone, extends around the base in a magnificent sweep nearly a hundred miles in length on its lower edge, and with a breadth of about seven miles. It is a dense33 growth of chaparral from three to six or eight feet high, composed chiefly of manzanita, cherry, chincapin, and several species of ceanothus, called deerbrush by the hunters, forming, when in full bloom, one of the most glorious flowerbeds conceivable. The continuity of this flowery zone is interrupted here and there, especially on the south side of the mountain, by wide swaths of coniferous trees, chiefly the sugar and yellow pines, Douglas spruce, silver fir, and incense34 cedar35, many specimens36 of which are two hundred feet high and five to seven feet in diameter. Goldenrods, asters, gilias, lilies, and lupines, with many other less conspicuous37 plants, occur in warm sheltered openings in these lower woods, making charming gardens of wildness where bees and butterflies are at home and many a shy bird and squirrel.
The next higher is the Fir Zone, made up almost exclusively of two species of silver fir. It is from two to three miles wide, has an average elevation above the sea of some six thousand feet on its lower edge and eight thousand on its upper, and is the most regular and best defined of the three.
The Alpine38 Zone has a rugged39, straggling growth of storm-beaten dwarf40 pines (Pinus albicaulis), which forms the upper edge of the timberline. This species reaches an elevation of about nine thousand feet, but at this height the tops of the trees rise only a few feet into the thin frosty air, and are closely pressed and shorn by wind and snow; yet they hold on bravely and put forth41 an abundance of beautiful purple flowers and produce cones42 and seeds. Down towards the edge of the fir belt they stand erect43, forming small, well-formed trunks, and are associated with the taller two-leafed and mountain pines and the beautiful Williamson spruce. Bryanthus, a beautiful flowering heathwort, flourishes a few hundred feet above the timberline, accompanied with kalmia and spiraea. Lichens44 enliven the faces of the cliffs with their bright colors, and in some of the warmer nooks of the rocks, up to a height of eleven thousand feet, there are a few tufts of dwarf daisies, wallflowers, and penstemons; but, notwithstanding these bloom freely, they make no appreciable45 show at a distance, and the stretches of rough brown lava beyond the storm-beaten trees seem as bare of vegetation as the great snow fields and glaciers46 of the summit.
Shasta is a fire-mountain, an old volcano gradually accumulated and built up into the blue deep of the sky by successive eruptions49 of ashes and molten lava which, shot high in the air and falling in darkening showers, and flowing from chasms50 and craters51, grew outward and upward like the trunk of a knotty53, bulging54 tree. Not in one grand convulsion was Shasta given birth, nor in any one special period of volcanic55 storm and stress, though mountains more than a thousand feet in height have been cast up like molehills in a night—quick contributions to the wealth of the landscapes, and most emphatic56 statements, on the part of Nature, of the gigantic character of the power that dwells beneath the dull, dead-looking surface of the earth. But sections cut by the glaciers, displaying some of the internal framework of Shasta, show that comparatively long periods of quiescence57 intervened between many distinct eruptions, during which the cooling lavas58 ceased to flow, and took their places as permanent additions to the bulk of the growing mountain. Thus with alternate haste and deliberation eruption48 succeeded eruption, until Mount Shasta surpassed even its present sublime height.
Then followed a strange contrast. The glacial winter came on. The sky that so often had been darkened with storms of cinders59 and ashes and lighted by the glare of volcanic fires was filled with crystal snow-flowers, which, loading the cooling mountain, gave birth to glaciers that, uniting edge to edge, at length formed one grand conical glacier47—a down-crawling mantle61 of ice upon a fountain of smouldering fire, crushing and grinding its brown, flinty lavas, and thus degrading and remodeling the entire mountain from summit to base. How much denudation62 and degradation has been effected we have no means of determining, the porous63, crumbling rocks being ill adapted for the reception and preservation64 of glacial inscriptions65.
The summit is now a mass of ruins, and all the finer striations have been effaced66 from the flanks by post-glacial weathering, while the irregularity of its lavas as regards susceptibility to erosion, and the disturbance67 caused by inter- and post-glacial eruptions, have obscured or obliterated68 those heavier characters of the glacial record found so clearly inscribed69 upon the granite pages of the high Sierra between latitude70 36 degrees 30 minutes and 39 degrees. This much, however, is plain: that the summit of the mountain was considerably71 lowered, and the sides were deeply grooved72 and fluted73 while it was a center of dispersal for the glaciers of the circumjacent region. And when at length the glacial period began to draw near its close, the ice mantle was gradually melted off around the base of the mountain, and in receding74 and breaking up into its present fragmentary condition the irregular heaps and rings of moraine matter were stored upon its flanks on which the forests are growing. The glacial erosion of most of the Shasta lavas gives rise to detritus75 composed of rough subangular boulders76 of moderate size and porous gravel77 and sand, which yields freely to the transporting power of running water. Several centuries ago immense quantities of this lighter78 material were washed down from the higher slopes by a flood of extraordinary magnitude, caused probably by the sudden melting of the ice and snow during an eruption, giving rise to the deposition79 of conspicuous delta-like beds around the base. And it is upon these flood-beds of moraine soil, thus suddenly and simultaneously80 laid down and joined edge to edge, that the flowery chaparral is growing.
Thus, by forces seemingly antagonistic81 and destructive, Nature accomplishes her beneficent designs—now a flood of fire, now a flood of ice, now a flood of water; and again in the fullness of time an outburst of organic life—forest and garden, with all their wealth of fruit and flowers, the air stirred into one universal hum with rejoicing insects, a milky82 way of wings and petals83, girdling the newborn mountain like a cloud, as if the vivifying sunbeams beating against its sides had broken into a foam84 of plant-bloom and bees.
But with such grand displays as Nature is making here, how grand are her reservations, bestowed85 only upon those who devotedly86 seek them! Beneath the smooth and snowy surface the fountain fires are still aglow87, to blaze forth afresh at their appointed times. The glaciers, looking so still and small at a distance, represented by the artist with a patch of white paint laid on by a single stroke of his brush, are still flowing onward89, unhalting, with deep crystal currents, sculpturing the mountain with stern, resistless energy. How many caves and fountains that no eye has yet seen lie with all their fine furniture deep down in the darkness, and how many shy wild creatures are at home beneath the grateful lights and shadows of the woods, rejoicing in their fullness of perfect life!
Standing on the edge of the Strawberry Meadows in the sun-days of summer, not a foot or feather or leaf seems to stir; and the grand, towering mountain with all its inhabitants appears in rest, calm as a star. Yet how profound is the energy ever in action, and how great is the multitude of claws and teeth, wings and eyes, wide awake and at work and shining! Going into the blessed wilderness90, the blood of the plants throbbing91 beneath the life-giving sunshine seems to be heard and felt; plant growth goes on before our eyes, and every tree and bush and flower is seen as a hive of restless industry. The deeps of the sky are mottled with singing wings of every color and tone—clouds of brilliant chrysididae dancing and swirling92 in joyous93 rhythm, golden-barred vespidae, butterflies, grating cicadas and jolly rattling94 grasshoppers—fairly enameling95 the light, and shaking all the air into music. Happy fellows they are, every one of them, blowing tiny pipe and trumpet96, plodding97 and prancing98, at work or at play.
Though winter holds the summit, Shasta in summer is mostly a massy, bossy99 mound100 of flowers colored like the alpenglow that flushes the snow. There are miles of wild roses, pink bells of huckleberry and sweet manzanita, every bell a honey-cup, plants that tell of the north and of the south; tall nodding lilies, the crimson101 sarcodes, rhododendron, cassiope, and blessed linnaea; phlox, calycanthus, plum, cherry, crataegus, spiraea, mints, and clovers in endless variety; ivesia, larkspur, and columbine; golden aplopappus, linosyris 5, bahia, wyethia, arnica, brodiaea, etc.,—making sheets and beds of light edgings of bloom in lavish102 abundance for the myriads103 of the air dependent on their bounty104.
The common honeybees, gone wild in this sweet wilderness, gather tons of honey into the hollows of the trees and rocks, clambering eagerly through bramble and hucklebloom, shaking the clustered bells of the generous manzanita, now humming aloft among polleny willows105 and firs, now down on the ashy ground among small gilias and buttercups, and anon plunging106 into banks of snowy cherry and buckthorn. They consider the lilies and roll into them, pushing their blunt polleny faces against them like babies on their mother's bosom107; and fondly, too, with eternal love does Mother Nature clasp her small bee-babies and suckle them, multitudes at once, on her warm Shasta breast. Besides the common honeybee there are many others here, fine, burly, mossy fellows, such as were nourished on the mountains many a flowery century before the advent108 of the domestic species—bumblebees, mason-bees, carpenter-bees, and leaf-cutters. Butterflies, too, and moths109 of every size and pattern; some wide-winged like bats, flapping slowly and sailing in easy curves; others like small flying violets shaking about loosely in short zigzag110 flights close to the flowers, feasting in plenty night and day.
Deer in great abundance come to Shasta from the warmer foothills every spring to feed in the rich, cool pastures, and bring forth their young in the ceanothus tangles111 of the chaparral zone, retiring again before the snowstorms of winter, mostly to the southward and westward112 of the mountain. In like manner the wild sheep of the adjacent region seek the lofty inaccessible113 crags of the summit as the snow melts, and are driven down to the lower spurs and ridges where there is but little snow, to the north and east of Shasta.
Bears, too, roam this foodful wilderness, feeding on grass, clover, berries, nuts, ant eggs, fish, flesh, or fowl,—whatever comes in their way,—with but little troublesome discrimination. Sugar and honey they seem to like best of all, and they seek far to find the sweets; but when hard pushed by hunger they make out to gnaw114 a living from the bark of trees and rotten logs, and might almost live on clean lava alone.
Notwithstanding the California bears have had as yet but little experience with honeybees, they sometimes succeed in reaching the bountiful stores of these industrious115 gatherers and enjoy the feast with majestic116 relish117. But most honeybees in search of a home are wise enough to make choice of a hollow in a living tree far from the ground, whenever such can be found. There they are pretty secure, for though the smaller brown and black bears climb well, they are unable to gnaw their way into strong hives, while compelled to exert themselves to keep from falling and at the same time endure the stings of the bees about the nose and eyes, without having their paws free to brush them off. But woe118 to the unfortunates who dwell in some prostrate119 trunk, and to the black bumblebees discovered in their mossy, mouselike nests in the ground. With powerful teeth and claws these are speedily laid bare, and almost before time is given for a general buzz the bees, old and young, larvae120, honey, stings, nest, and all, are devoured121 in one ravishing revel122.
The antelope123 may still be found in considerable numbers to the northeastward of Shasta, but the elk124, once abundant, have almost entirely125 gone from the region. The smaller animals, such as the wolf, the various foxes, wildcats, coon, squirrels, and the curious wood rat that builds large brush huts, abound126 in all the wilder places; and the beaver127, otter128, mink129, etc., may still be found along the sources of the rivers. The blue grouse130 and mountain quail131 are plentiful132 in the woods and the sage-hen on the plains about the northern base of the mountain, while innumerable smaller birds enliven and sweeten every thicket and grove133.
There are at least five classes of human inhabitants about the Shasta region: the Indians, now scattered134, few in numbers and miserably135 demoralized, though still offering some rare specimens of savage136 manhood; miners and prospectors137, found mostly to the north and west of the mountain, since the region about its base is overflowed138 with lava; cattle-raisers, mostly on the open plains to the northeastward and around the Klamath Lakes; hunters and trappers, where the woods and waters are wildest; and farmers, in Shasta Valley on the north side of the mountain, wheat, apples, melons, berries, all the best production of farm and garden growing and ripening139 there at the foot of the great white cone, which seems at times during changing storms ready to fall upon them—the most sublime farm scenery imaginable.
The Indians of the McCloud River that have come under my observation differ considerably in habits and features from the Diggers and other tribes of the foothills and plains, and also from the Pah Utes and Modocs. They live chiefly on salmon140. They seem to be closely related to the Tlingits of Alaska, Washington, and Oregon, and may readily have found their way here by passing from stream to stream in which salmon abound. They have much better features than the Indians of the plains, and are rather wide awake, speculative141 and ambitious in their way, and garrulous142, like the natives of the northern coast.
Before the Modoc War they lived in dread143 of the Modocs, a tribe living about the Klamath Lake and the Lava Beds, who were in the habit of crossing the low Sierra divide past the base of Shasta on freebooting excursions, stealing wives, fish, and weapons from the Pitts and McClouds. Mothers would hush144 their children by telling them that the Modocs would catch them.
During my stay at the Government fish-hatching station on the McCloud I was accompanied in my walks along the riverbank by a McCloud boy about ten years of age, a bright, inquisitive145 fellow, who gave me the Indian names of the birds and plants that we met. The water-ousel he knew well and he seemed to like the sweet singer, which he called "Sussinny." He showed me how strips of the stems of the beautiful maidenhair fern were used to adorn146 baskets with handsome brown bands, and pointed88 out several plants good to eat, particularly the large saxifrage growing abundantly along the river margin147. Once I rushed suddenly upon him to see if he would be frightened; but he unflinchingly held his ground, struck a grand heroic attitude, and shouted, "Me no fraid; me Modoc!"
Mount Shasta, so far as I have seen, has never been the home of Indians, not even their hunting ground to any great extent, above the lower slopes of the base. They are said to be afraid of fire-mountains and geyser basins as being the dwelling148 places of dangerously powerful and unmanageable gods. However, it is food and their relations to other tribes that mainly control the movements of Indians; and here their food was mostly on the lower slopes, with nothing except the wild sheep to tempt149 them higher. Even these were brought within reach without excessive climbing during the storms of winter.
On the north side of Shasta, near Sheep Rock, there is a long cavern150, sloping to the northward151, nearly a mile in length, thirty or forty feet wide, and fifty feet or more in height, regular in form and direction like a railroad tunnel, and probably formed by the flowing away of a current of lava after the hardening of the surface. At the mouth of this cave, where the light and shelter is good, I found many of the heads and horns of the wild sheep, and the remains152 of campfires, no doubt those of Indian hunters who in stormy weather had camped there and feasted after the fatigues154 of the chase. A wild picture that must have formed on a dark night—the glow of the fire, the circle of crouching155 savages156 around it seen through the smoke, the dead game, and the weird157 darkness and half-darkness of the walls of the cavern, a picture of cave-dwellers at home in the stone age!
Interest in hunting is almost universal, so deeply is it rooted as an inherited instinct ever ready to rise and make itself known. Fine scenery may not stir a fiber158 of mind or body, but how quick and how true is the excitement of the pursuit of game! Then up flames the slumbering159 volcano of ancient wildness, all that has been done by church and school through centuries of cultivation160 is for the moment destroyed, and the decent gentleman or devout161 saint becomes a howling, bloodthirsty, demented savage. It is not long since we all were cavemen and followed game for food as truly as wildcat or wolf, and the long repression162 of civilization seems to make the rebound163 to savage love of blood all the more violent. This frenzy164, fortunately, does not last long in its most exaggerated form, and after a season of wildness refined gentlemen from cities are not more cruel than hunters and trappers who kill for a living.
Dwelling apart in the depths of the woods are the various kinds of mountaineers,—hunters, prospectors, and the like,—rare men, "queer characters," and well worth knowing. Their cabins are located with reference to game and the ledges165 to be examined, and are constructed almost as simply as those of the wood rats made of sticks laid across each other without compass or square. But they afford good shelter from storms, and so are "square" with the need of their builders. These men as a class are singularly fine in manners, though their faces may be scarred and rough like the bark of trees. On entering their cabins you will promptly166 be placed on your good behavior, and, your wants being perceived with quick insight, complete hospitality will be offered for body and mind to the extent of the larder167.
These men know the mountains far and near, and their thousand voices, like the leaves of a book. They can tell where the deer may be found at any time of year or day, and what they are doing; and so of all the other furred and feathered people they meet in their walks; and they can send a thought to its mark as well as a bullet. The aims of such people are not always the highest, yet how brave and manly168 and clean are their lives compared with too many in crowded towns mildewed169 and dwarfed170 in disease and crime! How fine a chance is here to begin life anew in the free fountains and skylands of Shasta, where it is so easy to live and to die! The future of the hunter is likely to be a good one; no abrupt171 change about it, only a passing from wilderness to wilderness, from one high place to another.
Now that the railroad has been built up the Sacramento, everybody with money may go to Mount Shasta, the weak as well as the strong, fine-grained, succulent people, whose legs have never ripened172, as well as sinewy173 mountaineers seasoned long in the weather. This, surely, is not the best way of going to the mountains, yet it is better than staying below. Many still small voices will not be heard in the noisy rush and din5, suggestive of going to the sky in a chariot of fire or a whirlwind, as one is shot to the Shasta mark in a booming palace-car cartridge174; up the rocky canyon175, skimming the foaming176 river, above the level reaches, above the dashing spray—fine exhilarating translation, yet a pity to go so fast in a blur177, where so much might be seen and enjoyed.
The mountains are fountains not only of rivers and fertile soil, but of men. Therefore we are all, in some sense, mountaineers, and going to the mountains is going home. Yet how many are doomed178 to toil179 in town shadows while the white mountains beckon180 all along the horizon! Up the canyon to Shasta would be a cure for all care. But many on arrival seem at a loss to know what to do with themselves, and seek shelter in the hotel, as if that were the Shasta they had come for. Others never leave the rail, content with the window views, and cling to the comforts of the sleeping car like blind mice to their mothers. Many are sick and have been dragged to the healing wilderness unwillingly182 for body-good alone. Were the parts of the human machine detachable like Yankee inventions, how strange would be the gatherings183 on the mountains of pieces of people out of repair!
How sadly unlike the whole-hearted ongoing185 of the seeker after gold is this partial, compulsory186 mountaineering!—as if the mountain treasuries187 contained nothing better than gold! Up the mountains they go, high-heeled and high-hatted, laden188 like Christian189 with mortifications and mortgages of divers190 sorts and degrees, some suffering from the sting of bad bargains, others exulting191 in good ones; hunters and fishermen with gun and rod and leggins; blythe and jolly troubadours to whom all Shasta is romance; poets singing their prayers; the weak and the strong, unable or unwilling181 to bear mental taxation192. But, whatever the motive193, all will be in some measure benefited. None may wholly escape the good of Nature, however imperfectly exposed to her blessings195. The minister will not preach a perfectly194 flat and sedimentary sermon after climbing a snowy peak; and the fair play and tremendous impartiality196 of Nature, so tellingly displayed, will surely affect the after pleadings of the lawyer. Fresh air at least will get into everybody, and the cares of mere197 business will be quenched198 like the fires of a sinking ship.
Possibly a branch railroad may some time be built to the summit of Mount Shasta like the road on Mount Washington. In the mean time tourists are dropped at Sisson's, about twelve miles from the summit, whence as headquarters they radiate in every direction to the so-called "points of interest"; sauntering about the flowery fringes of the Strawberry Meadows, bathing in the balm of the woods, scrambling199, fishing, hunting; riding about Castle Lake, the McCloud River, Soda200 Springs, Big Spring, deer pastures, and elsewhere. Some demand bears, and make excited inquiries201 concerning their haunts, how many there might be altogether on the mountain, and whether they are grizzly202, brown, or black. Others shout, "Excelsior," and make off at once for the upper snow fields. Most, however, are content with comparatively level ground and moderate distances, gathering184 at the hotel every evening laden with trophies—great sheaves of flowers, cones of various trees, cedar and fir branches covered with yellow lichens, and possibly a fish or two, or quail, or grouse.
But the heads of deer, antelope, wild sheep, and bears are conspicuously203 rare or altogether wanting in tourist collections in the "paradise of hunters." There is a grand comparing of notes and adventures. Most are exhilarated and happy, though complaints may occasionally be heard—"The mountain does not look so very high after all, nor so very white; the snow is in patches like rags spread out to dry," reminding one of Sydney Smith's joke against Jeffrey, "D—n the Solar System; bad light, planets too indistinct." But far the greater number are in good spirits, showing the influence of holiday enjoyment204 and mountain air. Fresh roses come to cheeks that long have been pale, and sentiment often begins to blossom under the new inspiration.
The Shasta region may be reserved as a national park, with special reference to the preservation of its fine forests and game. This should by all means be done; but, as far as game is concerned, it is in little danger from tourists, notwithstanding many of them carry guns, and are in some sense hunters. Going in noisy groups, and with guns so shining, they are oftentimes confronted by inquisitive Douglas squirrels, and are thus given opportunities for shooting; but the larger animals retire at their approach and seldom are seen. Other gun people, too wise or too lifeless to make much noise, move slowly along the trails and about the open spots of the woods, like benumbed beetles205 in a snowdrift. Such hunters are themselves hunted by the animals, which in perfect safety follow them out of curiosity.
During the bright days of midsummer the ascent206 of Shasta is only a long, safe saunter, without fright or nerve strain, or even serious fatigue153, to those in sound health. Setting out from Sisson's on horseback, accompanied by a guide leading a pack animal with provision, blankets, and other necessaries, you follow a trail that leads up to the edge of the timberline, where you camp for the night, eight or ten miles from the hotel, at an elevation of about ten thousand feet. The next day, rising early, you may push on to the summit and return to Sisson's. But it is better to spend more time in the enjoyment of the grand scenery on the summit and about the head of the Whitney Glacier, pass the second night in camp, and return to Sisson's on the third day. Passing around the margin of the meadows and on through the zones of the forest, you will have good opportunities to get ever-changing views of the mountain and its wealth of creatures that bloom and breathe.
The woods differ but little from those that clothe the mountains to the southward, the trees being slightly closer together and generally not quite so large, marking the incipient207 change from the open sunny forests of the Sierra to the dense damp forests of the northern coast, where a squirrel may travel in the branches of the thick-set trees hundreds of miles without touching208 the ground. Around the upper belt of the forest you may see gaps where the ground has been cleared by avalanches209 of snow, thousands of tons in weight, which, descending210 with grand rush and roar, brush the trees from their paths like so many fragile shrubs211 or grasses.
At first the ascent is very gradual. The mountain begins to leave the plain in slopes scarcely perceptible, measuring from two to three degrees. These are continued by easy gradations mile after mile all the way to the truncated212, crumbling summit, where they attain213 a steepness of twenty to twenty-five degrees. The grand simplicity214 of these lines is partially215 interrupted on the north subordinate cone that rises from the side of the main cone about three thousand feet from the summit. This side cone, past which your way to the summit lies, was active after the breaking-up of the main ice-cap of the glacial period, as shown by the comparatively unwasted crater52 in which it terminates and by streams of fresh-looking, unglaciated lava that radiate from it as a center.
The main summit is about a mile and a half in diameter from southwest to northeast, and is nearly covered with snow and neve, bounded by crumbling peaks and ridges, among which we look in vain for any sure plan of an ancient crater. The extreme summit is situated216 on the southern end of a narrow ridge18 that bounds the general summit on the east. Viewed from the north, it appears as an irregular blunt point about ten feet high, and is fast disappearing before the stormy atmospheric217 action to which it is subjected.
At the base of the eastern ridge, just below the extreme summit, hot sulphurous gases and vapor218 escape with a hissing219, bubbling noise from a fissure220 in the lava. Some of the many small vents221 cast up a spray of clear hot water, which falls back repeatedly until wasted in vapor. The steam and spray seem to be produced simply by melting snow coming in the way of the escaping gases, while the gases are evidently derived222 from the heated interior of the mountain, and may be regarded as the last feeble expression of the mighty223 power that lifted the entire mass of the mountain from the volcanic depths far below the surface of the plain.
The view from the summit in clear weather extends to an immense distance in every direction. Southeastward, the low volcanic portion of the Sierra is seen like a map, both flanks as well as the crater-dotted axis, as far as Lassen's Butte 6, a prominent landmark and an old volcano like Shasta, between ten and eleven thousand feet high, and distant about sixty miles. Some of the higher summit peaks near Independence Lake, one hundred and eighty miles away, are at times distinctly visible. Far to the north, in Oregon, the snowy volcanic cones of Mounts Pitt, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters rise in clear relief, like majestic monuments, above the dim dark sea of the northern woods. To the northeast lie the Rhett and Klamath Lakes, the Lava Beds, and a grand display of hill and mountain and gray rocky plains. The Scott, Siskiyou, and Trinity Mountains rise in long, compact waves to the west and southwest, and the valley of the Sacramento and the coast mountains, with their marvelous wealth of woods and waters, are seen; while close around the base of the mountain lie the beautiful Shasta Valley, Strawberry Valley, Huckleberry Valley, and many others, with the headwaters of the Shasta, Sacramento, and McCloud Rivers. Some observers claim to have seen the ocean from the summit of Shasta, but I have not yet been so fortunate.
The Cinder60 Cone near Lassen's Butte is remarkable224 as being the scene of the most recent volcanic eruption in the range. It is a symmetrical truncated cone covered with gray cinders and ashes, with a regular crater in which a few pines an inch or two in diameter are growing. It stands between two small lakes which previous to the last eruption, when the cone was built, formed one lake. From near the base of the cone a flood of extremely rough black vesicular lava extends across what was once a portion of the bottom of the lake into the forest of yellow pine.
This lava flow seems to have been poured out during the same eruption that gave birth to the cone, cutting the lake in two, flowing a little way into the woods and overwhelming the trees in its way, the ends of some of the charred225 trunks still being visible, projecting from beneath the advanced snout of the flow where it came to rest; while the floor of the forest for miles around is so thickly strewn with loose cinders that walking is very fatiguing226. The Pitt River Indians tell of a fearful time of darkness, probably due to this eruption, when the sky was filled with falling cinders which, as they thought, threatened every living creature with destruction, and say that when at length the sun appeared through the gloom it was red like blood.
Less recent craters in great numbers dot the adjacent region, some with lakes in their throats, some overgrown with trees, others nearly bare—telling monuments of Nature's mountain fires so often lighted throughout the northern Sierra. And, standing on the top of icy Shasta, the mightiest227 fire-monument of them all, we can hardly fail to look forward to the blare and glare of its next eruption and wonder whether it is nigh. Elsewhere men have planted gardens and vineyards in the craters of volcanoes quiescent228 for ages, and almost without warning have been hurled229 into the sky. More than a thousand years of profound calm have been known to intervene between two violent eruptions. Seventeen centuries intervened between two consecutive230 eruptions on the island of Ischia. Few volcanoes continue permanently231 in eruption. Like gigantic geysers, spouting232 hot stone instead of hot water, they work and sleep, and we have no sure means of knowing whether they are only sleeping or dead.
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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din
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| n.喧闹声，嘈杂声 | |
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radius
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| n.半径，半径范围；有效航程，范围，界限 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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9
landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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10
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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axis
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| n.轴，轴线，中心线；坐标轴，基准线 | |
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12
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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13
residual
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| adj.复播复映追加时间；存留下来的，剩余的 | |
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14
degradation
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| n.降级；低落；退化；陵削；降解；衰变 | |
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15
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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16
computed
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| adj.[医]计算的，使用计算机的v.计算，估算( compute的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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17
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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18
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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19
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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20
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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21
thicket
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| n.灌木丛，树林 | |
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22
immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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23
meandering
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| 蜿蜒的河流，漫步，聊天 | |
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24
affluents
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| n.富裕的，富足的( affluent的名词复数 ) | |
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25
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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26
spires
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| n.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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27
swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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28
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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29
harmoniously
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| 和谐地，调和地 | |
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30
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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31
tinted
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| adj. 带色彩的 动词tint的过去式和过去分词 | |
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32
jutting
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| v.（使）突出( jut的现在分词 )；伸出；（从…）突出；高出 | |
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33
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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34
incense
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| v.激怒；n.香，焚香时的烟，香气 | |
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35
cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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36
specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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37
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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38
alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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39
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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40
dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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41
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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42
cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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43
erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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44
lichens
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| n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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45
appreciable
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| adj.明显的，可见的，可估量的，可觉察的 | |
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46
glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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47
glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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48
eruption
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| n.火山爆发；（战争等）爆发；（疾病等）发作 | |
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49
eruptions
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| n.喷发，爆发( eruption的名词复数 ) | |
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50
chasms
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| 裂缝( chasm的名词复数 )； 裂口； 分歧； 差别 | |
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51
craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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52
crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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53
knotty
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| adj.有结的，多节的，多瘤的，棘手的 | |
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54
bulging
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| 膨胀； 凸出（部）； 打气； 折皱 | |
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55
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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56
emphatic
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| adj.强调的，着重的；无可置疑的，明显的 | |
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57
quiescence
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| n.静止 | |
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58
lavas
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| n.（火山喷发的）熔岩( lava的名词复数 )；（熔岩冷凝后的）火山岩 | |
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59
cinders
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| n.煤渣( cinder的名词复数 )；炭渣；煤渣路；煤渣跑道 | |
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60
cinder
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| n.余烬，矿渣 | |
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61
mantle
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| n.斗篷，覆罩之物，罩子；v.罩住，覆盖，脸红 | |
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62
denudation
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| n.剥下；裸露；滥伐；剥蚀 | |
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63
porous
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| adj.可渗透的，多孔的 | |
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64
preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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65
inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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66
effaced
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| v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 )；抹去；超越；使黯然失色 | |
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67
disturbance
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| n.动乱，骚动；打扰，干扰；(身心)失调 | |
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68
obliterated
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| v.除去( obliterate的过去式和过去分词 )；涂去；擦掉；彻底破坏或毁灭 | |
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69
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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70
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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71
considerably
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|
| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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72
grooved
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| v.沟( groove的过去式和过去分词 )；槽；老一套；（某种）音乐节奏 | |
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73
fluted
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| a.有凹槽的 | |
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74
receding
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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75
detritus
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| n.碎石 | |
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76
boulders
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|
| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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77
gravel
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|
| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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78
lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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79
deposition
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| n.免职，罢官；作证；沉淀；沉淀物 | |
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80
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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81
antagonistic
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| adj.敌对的 | |
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82
milky
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|
| adj.牛奶的，多奶的；乳白色的 | |
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83
petals
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| n.花瓣( petal的名词复数 ) | |
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84
foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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85
bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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86
devotedly
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| 专心地； 恩爱地； 忠实地； 一心一意地 | |
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87
aglow
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|
| adj.发亮的；发红的；adv.发亮地 | |
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88
pointed
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|
| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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89
onward
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|
| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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90
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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91
throbbing
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| a. 跳动的,悸动的 | |
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92
swirling
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| v.旋转，打旋( swirl的现在分词 ) | |
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93
joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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94
rattling
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|
| adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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95
enameling
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| 上釉术，上釉药 | |
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96
trumpet
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|
| n.喇叭，喇叭声；v.吹喇叭，吹嘘 | |
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97
plodding
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| a.proceeding in a slow or dull way | |
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98
prancing
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| v.（马）腾跃( prance的现在分词 ) | |
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99
bossy
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| adj.爱发号施令的，作威作福的 | |
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100
mound
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| n.土墩，堤，小山；v.筑堤，用土堆防卫 | |
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101
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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102
lavish
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| adj.无节制的；浪费的；vt.慷慨地给予，挥霍 | |
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103
myriads
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| n.无数，极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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104
bounty
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| n.慷慨的赠予物，奖金；慷慨，大方；施与 | |
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105
willows
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| n.柳树( willow的名词复数 )；柳木 | |
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106
plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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107
bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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108
advent
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| n.(重要事件等的)到来，来临 | |
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109
moths
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| n.蛾( moth的名词复数 ) | |
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110
zigzag
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|
| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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111
tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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112
westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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113
inaccessible
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| adj.达不到的，难接近的 | |
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114
gnaw
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| v.不断地啃、咬；使苦恼，折磨 | |
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115
industrious
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| adj.勤劳的，刻苦的，奋发的 | |
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116
majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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117
relish
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| n.滋味，享受，爱好，调味品；vt.加调味料，享受，品味；vi.有滋味 | |
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118
woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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119
prostrate
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| v.拜倒，平卧，衰竭；adj.拜倒的，平卧的，衰竭的 | |
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120
larvae
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| n.幼虫 | |
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121
devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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122
revel
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| vi.狂欢作乐，陶醉；n.作乐，狂欢 | |
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123
antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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124
elk
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| n.麋鹿 | |
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125
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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126
abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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127
beaver
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| n.海狸，河狸 | |
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128
otter
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| n.水獭 | |
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129
mink
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| n.貂，貂皮 | |
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130
grouse
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| n.松鸡；v.牢骚，诉苦 | |
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131
quail
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| n.鹌鹑；vi.畏惧，颤抖 | |
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132
plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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133
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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134
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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135
miserably
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|
| adv.痛苦地；悲惨地；糟糕地；极度地 | |
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136
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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137
prospectors
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| n.勘探者，探矿者( prospector的名词复数 ) | |
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138
overflowed
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| 溢出的 | |
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139
ripening
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| v.成熟，使熟( ripen的现在分词 )；熟化；熟成 | |
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140
salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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141
speculative
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| adj.思索性的，暝想性的，推理的 | |
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142
garrulous
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| adj.唠叨的，多话的 | |
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143
dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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144
hush
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| int.嘘，别出声；n.沉默，静寂；v.使安静 | |
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145
inquisitive
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| adj.求知欲强的，好奇的，好寻根究底的 | |
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146
adorn
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| vt.使美化，装饰 | |
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147
margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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148
dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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149
tempt
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| vt.引诱，勾引，吸引，引起…的兴趣 | |
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150
cavern
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| n.洞穴，大山洞 | |
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151
northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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152
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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153
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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154
fatigues
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| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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155
crouching
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| v.屈膝，蹲伏( crouch的现在分词 ) | |
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156
savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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157
weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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158
fiber
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| n.纤维，纤维质 | |
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159
slumbering
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| 微睡，睡眠（slumber的现在分词形式） | |
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160
cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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161
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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162
repression
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| n.镇压，抑制，抑压 | |
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163
rebound
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| v.弹回；n.弹回，跳回 | |
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164
frenzy
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| n.疯狂，狂热，极度的激动 | |
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165
ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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166
promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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167
larder
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| n.食物贮藏室，食品橱 | |
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168
manly
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| adj.有男子气概的；adv.男子般地，果断地 | |
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169
mildewed
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| adj.发了霉的，陈腐的，长了霉花的v.（使）发霉，（使）长霉( mildew的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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170
dwarfed
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| vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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171
abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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172
ripened
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| v.成熟，使熟( ripen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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173
sinewy
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| adj.多腱的，强壮有力的 | |
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174
cartridge
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| n.弹壳，弹药筒；(装磁带等的)盒子 | |
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175
canyon
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| n.峡谷，溪谷 | |
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176
foaming
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| adj.布满泡沫的；发泡 | |
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177
blur
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| n.模糊不清的事物；vt.使模糊，使看不清楚 | |
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178
doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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179
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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180
beckon
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| v.(以点头或打手势)向...示意，召唤 | |
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181
unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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182
unwillingly
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| adv.不情愿地 | |
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183
gatherings
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| 聚集( gathering的名词复数 )； 收集； 采集； 搜集 | |
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184
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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185
ongoing
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| adj.进行中的，前进的 | |
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186
compulsory
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| n.强制的，必修的；规定的，义务的 | |
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187
treasuries
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| n.（政府的）财政部( treasury的名词复数 )；国库，金库 | |
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188
laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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189
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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190
divers
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| adj.不同的；种种的 | |
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191
exulting
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| vi. 欢欣鼓舞，狂喜 | |
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192
taxation
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| n.征税，税收，税金 | |
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193
motive
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| n.动机，目的；adv.发动的，运动的 | |
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194
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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195
blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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196
impartiality
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| n. 公平, 无私, 不偏 | |
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197
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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198
quenched
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| 解（渴）( quench的过去式和过去分词 )； 终止（某事物）； （用水）扑灭（火焰等）； 将（热物体）放入水中急速冷却 | |
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199
scrambling
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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200
soda
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| n.苏打水；汽水 | |
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201
inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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202
grizzly
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| adj.略为灰色的，呈灰色的；n.灰色大熊 | |
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203
conspicuously
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| ad.明显地，惹人注目地 | |
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204
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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205
beetles
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| n.甲虫( beetle的名词复数 ) | |
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206
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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207
incipient
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| adj.起初的，发端的，初期的 | |
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208
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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209
avalanches
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| n.雪崩( avalanche的名词复数 ) | |
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210
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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211
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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212
truncated
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| adj.切去顶端的，缩短了的，被删节的v.截面的( truncate的过去式和过去分词 )；截头的；缩短了的；截去顶端或末端 | |
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213
attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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214
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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215
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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216
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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217
atmospheric
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| adj.大气的，空气的；大气层的；大气所引起的 | |
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218
vapor
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| n.蒸汽，雾气 | |
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219
hissing
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| n. 发嘶嘶声, 蔑视 动词hiss的现在分词形式 | |
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220
fissure
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| n.裂缝；裂伤 | |
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221
vents
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| （气体、液体等进出的）孔、口( vent的名词复数 )； （鸟、鱼、爬行动物或小哺乳动物的）肛门； 大衣等的)衩口； 开衩 | |
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222
derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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223
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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224
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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225
charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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226
fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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227
mightiest
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| adj.趾高气扬( mighty的最高级 )；巨大的；强有力的；浩瀚的 | |
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228
quiescent
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| adj.静止的，不活动的，寂静的 | |
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229
hurled
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 )；大声叫骂 | |
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230
consecutive
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| adj.连续的，联贯的，始终一贯的 | |
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231
permanently
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| adv.永恒地，永久地，固定不变地 | |
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232
spouting
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| n.水落管系统v.（指液体）喷出( spout的现在分词 )；滔滔不绝地讲；喋喋不休地说；喷水 | |
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