The nearest point on the shoreline is distant about ten miles from Salt Lake City, and is almost inaccessible9 on account of the boggy10 character of the ground, but, by taking the Western Utah Railroad, at a distance of twenty miles you reach what is called Lake Point, where the shore is gravelly and wholesome11 and abounds12 in fine retreating bays that seem to have been made on purpose for bathing. Here the northern peaks of the Oquirrh Range plant their feet in the clear blue brine, with fine curbing13 insteps, leaving no space for muddy levels. The crystal brightness of the water, the wild flowers, and the lovely mountain scenery make this a favorite summer resort for pleasure and health seekers. Numerous excursion trains are run from the city, and parties, some of them numbering upwards14 of a thousand, come to bathe, and dance, and roam the flowery hillsides together.
But at the time of my first visit in May, I fortunately found myself alone. The hotel and bathhouse, which form the chief improvements of the place, were sleeping in winter silence, notwithstanding the year was in full bloom. It was one of those genial15 sun-days when flowers and flies come thronging17 to the light, and birds sing their best. The mountain ranges, stretching majestically18 north and south, were piled with pearly cumuli, the sky overhead was pure azure19, and the wind-swept lake was all aroll and aroar with whitecaps.
I sauntered along the shore until I came to a sequestered20 cove21, where buttercups and wild peas were blooming close down to the limit reached by the waves. Here, I thought, is just the place for a bath; but the breakers seemed terribly boisterous22 and forbidding as they came rolling up the beach, or dashed white against the rocks that bounded the cove on the east. The outer ranks, ever broken, ever builded, formed a magnificent rampart, sculptured and corniced like the hanging wall of a bergschrund, and appeared hopelessly insurmountable, however easily one might ride the swelling23 waves beyond. I feasted awhile on their beauty, watching their coming in from afar like faithful messengers, to tell their stories one by one; then I turned reluctantly away, to botanize and wait a calm. But the calm did not come that day, nor did I wait long. In an hour or two I was back again to the same little cove. The waves still sang the old storm song, and rose in high crystal walls, seemingly hard enough to be cut in sections, like ice.
Without any definite determination I found myself undressed, as if some one else had taken me in hand; and while one of the largest waves was ringing out its message and spending itself on the beach, I ran out with open arms to the next, ducked beneath its breaking top, and got myself into right lusty relationship with the brave old lake. Away I sped in free, glad motion, as if, like a fish, I had been afloat all my life, now low out of sight in the smooth, glassy valleys, now bounding aloft on firm combing crests24, while the crystal foam beat against my breast with keen, crisp clashing, as if composed of pure salt. I bowed to every wave, and each lifted me right royally to its shoulders, almost setting me erect25 on my feet, while they all went speeding by like living creatures, blooming and rejoicing in the brightness of the day, and chanting the history of their grand mountain home.
A good deal of nonsense has been written concerning the difficulty of swimming in this heavy water. "One's head would go down, and heels come up, and the acrid26 brine would burn like fire." I was conscious only of a joyous27 exhilaration, my limbs seemingly heeding28 their own business, without any discomfort29 or confusion; so much so, that without previous knowledge my experience on this occasion would not have led me to detect anything peculiar30. In calm weather, however, the sustaining power of the water might probably be more marked. This was by far the most exciting and effective wave excursion I ever made this side of the Rocky Mountains; and when at its close I was heaved ashore among the sunny grasses and flowers, I found myself a new creature indeed, and went bounding along the beach with blood all aglow31, reinforced by the best salts of the mountains, and ready for any race.
Since the completion of the transcontinental and Utah railways, this magnificent lake in the heart of the continent has become as accessible as any watering-place on either coast; and I am sure that thousands of travelers, sick and well, would throng16 its shores every summer were its merits but half known. Lake Point is only an hour or two from the city, and has hotel accommodations and a steamboat for excursions; and then, besides the bracing32 waters, the climate is delightful. The mountains rise into the cool sky furrowed33 with canyons34 almost yosemitic in grandeur35, and filled with a glorious profusion36 of flowers and trees. Lovers of science, lovers of wildness, lovers of pure rest will find here more than they may hope for.
As for the Mormons one meets, however their doctrines37 be regarded, they will be found as rich in human kindness as any people in all our broad land, while the dark memories that cloud their earlier history will vanish from the mind as completely as when we bathe in the fountain azure of the Sierra.
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1 foam | |
v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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2 plunging | |
adj.跳进的,突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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3 uproar | |
n.骚动,喧嚣,鼎沸 | |
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4 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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5 fragrant | |
adj.芬香的,馥郁的,愉快的 | |
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6 fiber | |
n.纤维,纤维质 | |
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7 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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8 braced | |
adj.拉牢的v.支住( brace的过去式和过去分词 );撑牢;使自己站稳;振作起来 | |
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9 inaccessible | |
adj.达不到的,难接近的 | |
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10 boggy | |
adj.沼泽多的 | |
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11 wholesome | |
adj.适合;卫生的;有益健康的;显示身心健康的 | |
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12 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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13 curbing | |
n.边石,边石的材料v.限制,克制,抑制( curb的现在分词 ) | |
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14 upwards | |
adv.向上,在更高处...以上 | |
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15 genial | |
adj.亲切的,和蔼的,愉快的,脾气好的 | |
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16 throng | |
n.人群,群众;v.拥挤,群集 | |
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17 thronging | |
v.成群,挤满( throng的现在分词 ) | |
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18 majestically | |
雄伟地; 庄重地; 威严地; 崇高地 | |
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19 azure | |
adj.天蓝色的,蔚蓝色的 | |
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20 sequestered | |
adj.扣押的;隐退的;幽静的;偏僻的v.使隔绝,使隔离( sequester的过去式和过去分词 );扣押 | |
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21 cove | |
n.小海湾,小峡谷 | |
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22 boisterous | |
adj.喧闹的,欢闹的 | |
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23 swelling | |
n.肿胀 | |
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24 crests | |
v.到达山顶(或浪峰)( crest的第三人称单数 );到达洪峰,达到顶点 | |
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25 erect | |
n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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26 acrid | |
adj.辛辣的,尖刻的,刻薄的 | |
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27 joyous | |
adj.充满快乐的;令人高兴的 | |
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28 heeding | |
v.听某人的劝告,听从( heed的现在分词 ) | |
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29 discomfort | |
n.不舒服,不安,难过,困难,不方便 | |
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30 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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31 aglow | |
adj.发亮的;发红的;adv.发亮地 | |
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32 bracing | |
adj.令人振奋的 | |
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33 furrowed | |
v.犁田,开沟( furrow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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34 canyons | |
n.峡谷( canyon的名词复数 ) | |
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35 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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36 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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37 doctrines | |
n.教条( doctrine的名词复数 );教义;学说;(政府政策的)正式声明 | |
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