But wheresoever we may venture to go in all this good world, nature is ever found richer and more beautiful than she seems, and nowhere may you meet with more varied3 and delightful4 surprises than in the byways and recesses5 of this sublime6 wilderness—lovely asters and abronias on the dusty plains, rose-gardens around the mountain wells, and resiny woods, where all seemed so desolate8, adorning9 the hot foothills as well as the cool summits, fed by cordial and benevolent10 storms of rain and hail and snow; all of these scant11 and rare as compared with the immeasurable exuberance12 of California, but still amply sufficient throughout the barest deserts for a clear manifestation13 of God's love.
Though Nevada is situated14 in what is called the "Great Basin," no less than sixty-five groups and chains of mountains rise within the bounds of the State to a height of about from eight thousand to thirteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, and as far as I have observed, every one of these is planted, to some extent, with coniferous trees, though it is only upon the highest that we find anything that may fairly be called a forest. The lower ranges and the foothills and slopes of the higher are roughened with small scrubby junipers and nut pines, while the dominating peaks, together with the ridges16 that swing in grand curves between them, are covered with a closer and more erect17 growth of pine, spruce, and fir, resembling the forests of the Eastern States both as to size and general botanical characteristics. Here is found what is called the heavy timber, but the tallest and most fully18 developed sections of the forests, growing down in sheltered hollows on moist moraines, would be regarded in California only as groves19 of saplings, and so, relatively20, they are, for by careful calculation we find that more than a thousand of these trees would be required to furnish as much timber as may be obtained from a single specimen21 of our Sierra giants.
The height of the timberline in eastern Nevada, near the middle of the Great Basin, is about eleven thousand feet above sea level; consequently the forests, in a dwarfed22, storm-beaten condition, pass over the summits of nearly every range in the State, broken here and there only by mechanical conditions of the surface rocks. Only three mountains in the State have as yet come under my observation whose summits rise distinctly above the treeline. These are Wheeler's Peak, twelve thousand three hundred feet high, Mount Moriah, about twelve thousand feet, and Granite23 Mountain, about the same height, all of which are situated near the boundary line between Nevada and Utah Territory.
In a rambling24 mountaineering journey of eighteen hundred miles across the state, I have met nine species of coniferous trees,—four pines, two spruces, two junipers, and one fir,—about one third the number found in California. By far the most abundant and interesting of these is the Pinus Fremontiana, 18 or nut pine. In the number of individual trees and extent of range this curious little conifer surpasses all the others combined. Nearly every mountain in the State is planted with it from near the base to a height of from eight thousand to nine thousand feet above the sea. Some are covered from base to summit by this one species, with only a sparse25 growth of juniper on the lower slopes to break the continuity of these curious woods, which, though dark-looking at a little distance, are yet almost shadeless, and without any hint of the dark glens and hollows so characteristic of other pine woods. Tens of thousands of acres occur in one continuous belt. Indeed, viewed comprehensively, the entire State seems to be pretty evenly divided into mountain ranges covered with nut pines and plains covered with sage26—now a swath of pines stretching from north to south, now a swath of sage; the one black, the other gray; one severely27 level, the other sweeping28 on complacently29 over ridge15 and valley and lofty crowning dome30.
The real character of a forest of this sort would never be guessed by the inexperienced observer. Traveling across the sage levels in the dazzling sunlight, you gaze with shaded eyes at the mountains rising along their edges, perhaps twenty miles away, but no invitation that is at all likely to be understood is discernible. Every mountain, however high it swells31 into the sky, seems utterly32 barren. Approaching nearer, a low brushy growth is seen, strangely black in aspect, as though it had been burned. This is a nut pine forest, the bountiful orchard33 of the red man. When you ascend34 into its midst you find the ground beneath the trees, and in the openings also, nearly naked, and mostly rough on the surface—a succession of crumbling35 ledges36 of lava37, limestones38, slate39, and quartzite, coarsely strewn with soil weathered from them. Here and there occurs a bunch of sage or linosyris, or a purple aster1, or a tuft of dry bunch-grass.
The harshest mountainsides, hot and waterless, seem best adapted to the nut pine's development. No slope is too steep, none too dry; every situation seems to be gratefully chosen, if only it be sufficiently40 rocky and firm to afford secure anchorage for the tough, grasping roots. It is a sturdy, thickset little tree, usually about fifteen feet high when full grown, and about as broad as high, holding its knotty41 branches well out in every direction in stiff zigzags44, but turning them gracefully45 upward at the ends in rounded bosses. Though making so dark a mass in the distance, the foliage46 is a pale grayish green, in stiff, awl-shaped fascicles. When examined closely these round needles seem inclined to be two-leaved, but they are mostly held firmly together, as if to guard against evaporation47. The bark on the older sections is nearly black, so that the boles and branches are clearly traced against the prevailing48 gray of the mountains on which they delight to dwell.
The value of this species to Nevada is not easily overestimated49. It furnishes fuel, charcoal50, and timber for the mines, and, together with the enduring juniper, so generally associated with it, supplies the ranches42 with abundance of firewood and rough fencing. Many a square mile has already been denuded51 in supplying these demands, but, so great is the area covered by it, no appreciable52 loss has as yet been sustained. It is pretty generally known that this tree yields edible53 nuts, but their importance and excellence54 as human food is infinitely55 greater than is supposed. In fruitful seasons like this one, the pine nut crop of Nevada is, perhaps, greater than the entire wheat crop of California, concerning which so much is said and felt throughout the food markets of the world.
The Indians alone appreciate this portion of Nature's bounty56 and celebrate the harvest home with dancing and feasting. The cones57, which are a bright grass-green in color and about two inches long by one and a half in diameter, are beaten off with poles just before the scales open, gathered in heaps of several bushels, and lightly scorched59 by burning a thin covering of brushwood over them. The resin7, with which the cones are bedraggled, is thus burned off, the nuts slightly roasted, and the scales made to open. Then they are allowed to dry in the sun, after which the nuts are easily thrashed out and are ready to be stored away. They are about half an inch long by a quarter of an inch in diameter, pointed60 at the upper end, rounded at the base, light brown in general color, and handsomely dotted with purple, like birds' eggs. The shells are thin, and may be crushed between the thumb and finger. The kernels61 are white and waxy-looking, becoming brown by roasting, sweet and delicious to every palate, and are eaten by birds, squirrels, dogs, horses, and man. When the crop is abundant the Indians bring in large quantities for sale; they are eaten around every fireside in the State, and oftentimes fed to horses instead of barley62.
Looking over the whole continent, none of Nature's bounties63 seems to me so great as this in the way of food, none so little appreciated. Fortunately for the Indians and wild animals that gather around Nature's board, this crop is not easily harvested in a monopolizing64 way. If it could be gathered like wheat the whole would be carried away and dissipated in towns, leaving the brave inhabitants of these wilds to starve.
Long before the harvest time, which is in September and October, the Indians examine the trees with keen discernment, and inasmuch as the cones require two years to mature from the first appearance of the little red rosettes of the fertile flowers, the scarcity65 or abundance of the crop may be predicted more than a year in advance. Squirrels, and worms, and Clarke crows, make haste to begin the harvest. When the crop is ripe the Indians make ready their long beating-poles; baskets, bags, rags, mats, are gotten together. The squaws out among the settlers at service, washing and drudging, assemble at the family huts; the men leave their ranch43 work; all, old and young, are mounted on ponies66, and set off in great glee to the nut lands, forming cavalcades67 curiously68 picturesque69. Flaming scarfs and calico skirts stream loosely over the knotty ponies, usually two squaws astride of each, with the small baby midgets bandaged in baskets slung70 on their backs, or balanced upon the saddle-bow, while the nut baskets and water jars project from either side, and the long beating-poles, like old-fashioned lances, angle out in every direction.
Arrived at some central point already fixed71 upon, where water and grass is found, the squaws with baskets, the men with poles, ascend the ridges to the laden72 trees, followed by the children; beating begins with loud noise and chatter73; the burs fly right and left, lodging74 against stones and sagebrush; the squaws and children gather them with fine natural gladness; smoke columns speedily mark the joyful75 scene of their labors76 as the roasting fires are kindled77; and, at night, assembled in circles, garrulous78 as jays, the first grand nut feast begins. Sufficient quantities are thus obtained in a few weeks to last all winter.
The Indians also gather several species of berries and dry them to vary their stores, and a few deer and grouse79 are killed on the mountains, besides immense numbers of rabbits and hares; but the pine-nuts are their main dependence—their staff of life, their bread.
Insects also, scarce noticed by man, come in for their share of this fine bounty. Eggs are deposited, and the baby grubs, happy fellows, find themselves in a sweet world of plenty, feeding their way through the heart of the cone58 from one nut chamber80 to another, secure from rain and wind and heat, until their wings are grown and they are ready to launch out into the free ocean of air and light.
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1
aster
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| n.紫菀属植物 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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6
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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7
resin
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| n.树脂，松香，树脂制品；vt.涂树脂 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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adorning
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| 修饰，装饰物 | |
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10
benevolent
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| adj.仁慈的，乐善好施的 | |
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11
scant
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| adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略 | |
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12
exuberance
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| n.丰富；繁荣 | |
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13
manifestation
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| n.表现形式；表明；现象 | |
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14
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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15
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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17
erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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18
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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19
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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20
relatively
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| adv.比较...地，相对地 | |
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21
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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22
dwarfed
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| vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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23
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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24
rambling
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| adj.[建]凌乱的，杂乱的 | |
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25
sparse
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| adj.稀疏的，稀稀落落的，薄的 | |
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26
sage
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| n.圣人，哲人；adj.贤明的，明智的 | |
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27
severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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28
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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29
complacently
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| adv. 满足地, 自满地, 沾沾自喜地 | |
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30
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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31
swells
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| 增强( swell的第三人称单数 )； 肿胀； （使）凸出； 充满（激情） | |
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32
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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33
orchard
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| n.果园，果园里的全部果树，(美俚)棒球场 | |
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34
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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35
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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36
ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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37
lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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38
limestones
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| n.石灰岩( limestone的名词复数 ) | |
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39
slate
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| n.板岩，石板，石片，石板色，候选人名单；adj.暗蓝灰色的，含板岩的；vt.用石板覆盖，痛打，提名，预订 | |
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40
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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41
knotty
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| adj.有结的，多节的，多瘤的，棘手的 | |
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42
ranches
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| 大农场， （兼种果树，养鸡等的）大牧场( ranch的名词复数 ) | |
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43
ranch
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| n.大牧场，大农场 | |
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44
zigzags
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| n.锯齿形的线条、小径等( zigzag的名词复数 )v.弯弯曲曲地走路，曲折地前进( zigzag的第三人称单数 ) | |
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45
gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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46
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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47
evaporation
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| n.蒸发，消失 | |
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48
prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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49
overestimated
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| 对（数量）估计过高，对…作过高的评价( overestimate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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50
charcoal
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| n.炭，木炭，生物炭 | |
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51
denuded
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| adj.[医]变光的，裸露的v.使赤裸( denude的过去式和过去分词 )；剥光覆盖物 | |
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52
appreciable
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| adj.明显的，可见的，可估量的，可觉察的 | |
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53
edible
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| n.食品，食物；adj.可食用的 | |
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54
excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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55
infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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56
bounty
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| n.慷慨的赠予物，奖金；慷慨，大方；施与 | |
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57
cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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58
cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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59
scorched
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| 烧焦，烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（植物）枯萎，把…晒枯； 高速行驶； 枯焦 | |
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60
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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61
kernels
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| 谷粒( kernel的名词复数 )； 仁； 核； 要点 | |
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62
barley
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| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
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63
bounties
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| （由政府提供的）奖金( bounty的名词复数 )； 赏金； 慷慨； 大方 | |
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64
monopolizing
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| v.垄断( monopolize的现在分词 )；独占；专卖；专营 | |
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65
scarcity
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| n.缺乏，不足，萧条 | |
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66
ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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67
cavalcades
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| n.骑马队伍，车队( cavalcade的名词复数 ) | |
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68
curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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69
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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70
slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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71
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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72
laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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73
chatter
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| vi.／n.喋喋不休；短促尖叫；(牙齿)打战 | |
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74
lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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75
joyful
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| adj.欢乐的，令人欢欣的 | |
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76
labors
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| v.努力争取(for)( labor的第三人称单数 )；苦干；详细分析；（指引擎）缓慢而困难地运转 | |
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77
kindled
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| （使某物）燃烧，着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 )； 激起（感情等）； 发亮，放光 | |
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78
garrulous
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| adj.唠叨的，多话的 | |
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79
grouse
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| n.松鸡；v.牢骚，诉苦 | |
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80
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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