Ever since Oregon was first heard of in the romantic, adventurous19, hunting, trapping Wild West days, it seems to have been regarded as the most attractive and promising20 of all the Pacific countries for farmers. While yet the whole region as well as the way to it was wild, ere a single road or bridge was built, undaunted by the trackless thousand-mile distances and scalping, cattle-stealing Indians, long trains of covered wagons22 began to crawl wearily westward23, crossing how many plains, rivers, ridges24, and mountains, fighting the painted savages25 and weariness and famine. Setting out from the frontier of the old West in the spring as soon as the grass would support their cattle, they pushed on up the Platte, making haste slowly, however, that they might not be caught in the storms of winter ere they reached the promised land. They crossed the Rocky Mountains to Fort Hall; thence followed down the Snake River for three or four hundred miles, their cattle limping and failing on the rough lava plains; swimming the streams too deep to be forded, making boats out of wagon21-boxes for the women and children and goods, or where trees could be had, lashing27 together logs for rafts. Thence, crossing the Blue Mountains and the plains of the Columbia, they followed the river to the Dalles. Here winter would be upon them, and before a wagon road was built across the Cascade28 Mountains the toil-worn emigrants30 would be compelled to leave their cattle and wagons until the following summer, and, in the mean time, with the assistance of the Hudson's Bay Company, make their way to the Willamette Valley on the river with rafts and boats.
How strange and remote these trying times have already become! They are now dim as if a thousand years had passed over them. Steamships31 and locomotives with magical influence have well-nigh abolished the old distances and dangers, and brought forward the New West into near and familiar companionship with the rest of the world.
Purely33 wild for unnumbered centuries, a paradise of oily, salmon34-fed Indians, Oregon is now roughly settled in part and surveyed, its rivers and mountain ranges, lakes, valleys, and plains have been traced and mapped in a general way, civilization is beginning to take root, towns are springing up and flourishing vigorously like a crop adapted to the soil, and the whole kindly35 wilderness lies invitingly36 near with all its wealth open and ripe for use.
In sailing along the Oregon coast one sees but few more signs of human occupation than did Juan de Fuca three centuries ago. The shore bluffs37 rise abruptly38 from the waves, forming a wall apparently39 unbroken, though many short rivers from the coast range of mountains and two from the interior have made narrow openings on their way to the sea. At the mouths of these rivers good harbors have been discovered for coasting vessels40, which are of great importance to the lumbermen, dairymen, and farmers of the coast region. But little or nothing of these appear in general views, only a simple gray wall nearly straight, green along the top, and the forest stretching back into the mountains as far as the eye can reach.
Going ashore41, we find few long reaches of sand where one may saunter, or meadows, save the brown and purple meadows of the sea, overgrown with slippery kelp, swashed and swirled42 in the restless breakers. The abruptness43 of the shore allows the massive waves that have come from far over the broad Pacific to get close to the bluffs ere they break, and the thundering shock shakes the rocks to their foundations. No calm comes to these shores. Even in the finest weather, when the ships off shore are becalmed and their sails hang loose against the mast, there is always a wreath of foam44 at the base of these bluffs. The breakers are ever in bloom and crystal brine is ever in the air.
A scramble45 along the Oregon sea bluffs proves as richly exciting to lovers of wild beauty as heart could wish. Here are three hundred miles of pictures of rock and water in black and white, or gray and white, with more or less of green and yellow, purple and blue. The rocks, glistening46 in sunshine and foam, are never wholly dry—many of them marvels47 of wave-sculpture and most imposing48 in bulk and bearing, standing49 boldly forward, monuments of a thousand storms, types of permanence, holding the homes and places of refuge of multitudes of seafaring animals in their keeping, yet ever wasting away. How grand the songs of the waves about them, every wave a fine, hearty storm in itself, taking its rise on the breezy plains of the sea, perhaps thousands of miles away, traveling with majestic, slow-heaving deliberation, reaching the end of its journey, striking its blow, bursting into a mass of white and pink bloom, then falling spent and withered50 to give place to the next in the endless procession, thus keeping up the glorious show and glorious song through all times and seasons forever!
Terribly impressive as is this cliff and wave scenery when the skies are bright and kindly sunshine makes rainbows in the spray, it is doubly so in dark, stormy nights, when, crouching51 in some hollow on the top of some jutting52 headland, we may gaze and listen undisturbed in the heart of it. Perhaps now and then we may dimly see the tops of the highest breakers, looking ghostly in the gloom; but when the water happens to be phosphorescent, as it oftentimes is, then both the sea and the rocks are visible, and the wild, exulting53, up-dashing spray burns, every particle of it, and is combined into one glowing mass of white fire; while back in the woods and along the bluffs and crags of the shore the storm wind roars, and the rain-floods, gathering54 strength and coming from far and near, rush wildly down every gulch55 to the sea, as if eager to join the waves in their grand, savage26 harmony; deep calling unto deep in the heart of the great, dark night, making a sight and a song unspeakably sublime56 and glorious.
In the pleasant weather of summer, after the rainy season is past and only occasional refreshing57 showers fall, washing the sky and bringing out the fragrance58 of the flowers and the evergreens59, then one may enjoy a fine, free walk all the way across the State from the sea to the eastern boundary on the Snake River. Many a beautiful stream we should cross in such a walk, singing through forest and meadow and deep rocky gorge60, and many a broad prairie and plain, mountain and valley, wild garden and desert, presenting landscape beauty on a grand scale and in a thousand forms, and new lessons without number, delightful61 to learn. Oregon has three mountain ranges which run nearly parallel with the coast, the most influential62 of which, in every way, is the Cascade Range. It is about six thousand to seven thousand feet in average height, and divides the State into two main sections called Eastern and Western Oregon, corresponding with the main divisions of Washington; while these are again divided, but less perfectly63, by the Blue Mountains and the Coast Range. The eastern section is about two hundred and thirty miles wide, and is made up in great part of the treeless plains of the Columbia, which are green and flowery in spring, but gray, dusty, hot, and forbidding in summer. Considerable areas, however, on these plains, as well as some of the valleys countersunk below the general surface along the banks of the streams, have proved fertile and produce large crops of wheat, barley64, hay, and other products.
In general views the western section seems to be covered with one vast, evenly planted forest, with the exception of the few snow-clad peaks of the Cascade Range, these peaks being the only points in the landscape that rise above the timberline. Nevertheless, embosomed in this forest and lying in the great trough between the Cascades65 and coast mountains, there are some of the best bread-bearing valleys to be found in the world. The largest of these are the Willamette, Umpqua, and Rogue66 River Valleys. Inasmuch as a considerable portion of these main valleys was treeless, or nearly so, as well as surpassingly fertile, they were the first to attract settlers; and the Willamette, being at once the largest and nearest to tide water, was settled first of all, and now contains the greater portion of the population and wealth of the State.
The climate of this section, like the corresponding portion of Washington, is rather damp and sloppy67 throughout the winter months, but the summers are bright, ripening69 the wheat and allowing it to be garnered70 in good condition. Taken as a whole, the weather is bland71 and kindly, and like the forest trees the crops and cattle grow plump and sound in it. So also do the people; children ripen68 well and grow up with limbs of good size and fiber72 and, unless overworked in the woods, live to a good old age, hale and hearty.
But, like every other happy valley in the world, the sunshine of this one is not without its shadows. Malarial73 fevers are not unknown in some places, and untimely frosts and rains may at long intervals74 in some measure disappoint the hopes of the husbandman. Many a tale, good-natured or otherwise, is told concerning the overflowing abundance of the Oregon rains. Once an English traveler, as the story goes, went to a store to make some purchases and on leaving found that rain was falling; therefore, not liking75 to get wet, he stepped back to wait till the shower was over. Seeing no signs of clearing, he soon became impatient and inquired of the storekeeper how long he thought the shower would be likely to last. Going to the door and looking wisely into the gray sky and noting the direction of the wind, the latter replied that he thought the shower would probably last about six months, an opinion that of course disgusted the fault-finding Briton with the "blawsted country," though in fact it is but little if at all wetter or cloudier than his own.
No climate seems the best for everybody. Many there be who waste their lives in a vain search for weather with which no fault may be found, keeping themselves and their families in constant motion, like floating seaweeds that never strike root, yielding compliance76 to every current of news concerning countries yet untried, believing that everywhere, anywhere, the sky is fairer and the grass grows greener than where they happen to be. Before the Oregon and California railroad was built, the overland journey between these States across the Siskiyou Mountains in the old-fashioned emigrant29 wagon was a long and tedious one. Nevertheless, every season dissatisfied climate-seekers, too wet and too dry, might be seen plodding77 along through the dust in the old "49style," making their way one half of them from California to Oregon, the other half from Oregon to California. The beautiful Sisson meadows at the base of Mount Shasta were a favorite halfway78 resting place, where the weary cattle were turned out for a few days to gather strength for better climates, and it was curious to hear those perpetual pioneers comparing notes and seeking information around the campfires.
"Where are you from?" some Oregonian would ask.
"The Joaquin."
"It's dry there, ain't it?"
"Well, I should say so. No rain at all in summer and none to speak of in winter, and I'm dried out. I just told my wife I was on the move again, and I'm going to keep moving till I come to a country where it rains once in a while, like it does in every reg'lar white man's country; and that, I guess, will be Oregon, if the news be true."
"Yes, neighbor, you's heading in the right direction for rain," the Oregonian would say. "Keep right on to Yamhill and you'll soon be damp enough. It rains there more than twelve months in the year; at least, no saying but it will. I've just come from there, plumb79 drownded out, and I told my wife to jump into the wagon and we should start out and see if we couldn't find a dry day somewhere. Last fall the hay was out and the wood was out, and the cabin leaked, and I made up my mind to try California the first chance."
"Well, if you be a horned toad80 or coyote," the seeker of moisture would reply, "then maybe you can stand it. Just keep right on by the Alabama Settlement to Tulare and you can have my place on Big Dry Creek81 and welcome. You'll be drowned there mighty82 seldom. The wagon spokes83 and tires will rattle84 and tell you when you come to it."
"All right, partner, we'll swap85 square, you can have mine in Yamhill
and the rain thrown in. Last August a painter sharp came along one day
wanting to know the way to Willamette Falls, and I told him: Young ma
going to Oregon City after them. The whole dog-gone Noah's flood of a
country will be a fall and melt and float away some day.'" And more to
the same effect.
But no one need leave Oregon in search of fair weather. The wheat and cattle region of eastern Oregon and Washington on the upper Columbia plains is dry enough and dusty enough more than half the year. The truth is, most of these wanderers enjoy the freedom of gypsy life and seek not homes but camps. Having crossed the plains and reached the ocean, they can find no farther west within reach of wagons, and are therefore compelled now to go north and south between Mexico and Alaska, always glad to find an excuse for moving, stopping a few months or weeks here and there, the time being measured by the size of the camp-meadow, conditions of the grass, game, and other indications. Even their so-called settlements of a year or two, when they take up land and build cabins, are only another kind of camp, in no common sense homes. Never a tree is planted, nor do they plant themselves, but like good soldiers in time of war are ever ready to march. Their journey of life is indeed a journey with very matter-of-fact thorns in the way, though not wholly wanting in compensation.
One of the most influential of the motives32 that brought the early settlers to these shores, apart from that natural instinct to scatter86 and multiply which urges even sober salmon to climb the Rocky Mountains, was their desire to find a country at once fertile and winterless, where their flocks and herds87 could find pasture all the year, thus doing away with the long and tiresome88 period of haying and feeding necessary in the eastern and old western States and Territories. Cheap land and good land there was in abundance in Kansas, Nebraska, Minnesota, and Iowa; but there the labor89 of providing for animals of the farm was very great, and much of that labor was crowded together into a few summer months, while to keep cool in summers and warm in the icy winters was well-nigh impossible to poor farmers.
Along the coast and throughout the greater part of western Oregon in general, snow seldom falls on the lowlands to a greater depth than a few inches, and never lies long. Grass is green all winter. The average temperature for the year in the Willamette Valley is about 52 degrees, the highest and lowest being about 100 degrees and 20 degrees, though occasionally a much lower temperature is reached.
The average rainfall is about fifty or fifty-five inches in the Willamette Valley, and along the coast seventy-five inches, or even more at some points—figures that bring many a dreary90 night and day to mind, however fine the effect on the great evergreen woods and the fields of the farmers. The rainy season begins in September or October and lasts until April or May. Then the whole country is solemnly soaked and poulticed with the gray, streaming clouds and fogs, night and day, with marvelous constancy. Towards the beginning and end of the season a good many bright days occur to break the pouring gloom, but whole months of rain, continuous, or nearly so, are not at all rare. Astronomers91 beneath these Oregon skies would have a dull time of it. Of all the year only about one fourth of the days are clear, while three fourths have more or less of fogs, clouds, or rain.
The fogs occur mostly in the fall and spring. They are grand, far-reaching affairs of two kinds, the black and the white, some of the latter being very beautiful, and the infinite delicacy92 and tenderness of their touch as they linger to caress93 the tall evergreens is most exquisite11. On farms and highways and in the streets of towns, where work has to be done, there is nothing picturesque94 or attractive in any obvious way about the gray, serious-faced rainstorms. Mud abounds. The rain seems dismal95 and heedless and gets in everybody's way. Every face is turned from it, and it has but few friends who recognize its boundless beneficence. But back in the untrodden woods where no axe96 has been lifted, where a deep, rich carpet of brown and golden mosses97 covers all the ground like a garment, pressing warmly about the feet of the trees and rising in thick folds softly and kindly over every fallen trunk, leaving no spot naked or uncared-for, there the rain is welcomed, and every drop that falls finds a place and use as sweet and pure as itself. An excursion into the woods when the rain harvest is at its height is a noble pleasure, and may be safely enjoyed at small expense, though very few care to seek it. Shelter is easily found beneath the great trees in some hollow out of the wind, and one need carry but little provision, none at all of a kind that a wetting would spoil. The colors of the woods are then at their best, and the mighty hosts of the forest, every needle tingling99 in the blast, wave and sing in glorious harmony.
"'T were worth ten years of peaceful life,
one glance at this array."
The snow that falls in the lowland woods is usually soft, and makes a fine show coming through the trees in large, feathery tufts, loading the branches of the firs and spruces and cedars100 and weighing them down against the trunks until they look slender and sharp as arrows, while a strange, muffled101 silence prevails, giving a peculiar102 solemnity to everything. But these lowland snowstorms and their effects quickly vanish; every crystal melts in a day or two, the bent103 branches rise again, and the rain resumes its sway.
While these gracious rains are searching the roots of the lowlands, corresponding snows are busy along the heights of the Cascade Mountains. Month after month, day and night the heavens shed their icy bloom in stormy, measureless abundance, filling the grand upper fountains of the rivers to last through the summer. Awful then is the silence that presses down over the mountain forests. All the smaller streams vanish from sight, hushed and obliterated104. Young groves105 of spruce and pine are bowed down as by a gentle hand and put to rest, not again to see the light or move leaf or limb until the grand awakening106 of the springtime, while the larger animals and most of the birds seek food and shelter in the foothills on the borders of the valleys and plains.
The lofty volcanic107 peaks are yet more heavily snow-laden108. To their upper zones no summer comes. They are white always. From the steep slopes of the summit the new-fallen snow, while yet dry and loose, descends109 in magnificent avalanches110 to feed the glaciers111, making meanwhile the most glorious manifestations112 of power. Happy is the man who may get near them to see and hear. In some sheltered camp nest on the edge of the timberline one may lie snug114 and warm, but after the long shuffle115 on snowshoes we may have to wait more than a month ere the heavens open and the grand show is unveiled. In the mean time, bread may be scarce, unless with careful forecast a sufficient supply has been provided and securely placed during the summer. Nevertheless, to be thus deeply snowbound high in the sky is not without generous compensation for all the cost. And when we at length go down the long white slopes to the levels of civilization, the pains vanish like snow in sunshine, while the noble and exalting116 pleasures we have gained remain with us to enrich our lives forever.
The fate of the high-flying mountain snow-flowers is a fascinating study, though little may we see of their works and ways while their storms go on. The glinting, swirling117 swarms118 fairly thicken the blast, and all the air, as well as the rocks and trees, is as one smothering119 mass of bloom, through the midst of which at close intervals come the low, intense thunder-tones of the avalanches as they speed on their way to fill the vast fountain hollows. Here they seem at last to have found rest. But this rest is only apparent. Gradually the loose crystals by the pressure of their own weight are welded together into clear ice, and, as glaciers, march steadily120, silently on, with invisible motion, in broad, deep currents, grinding their way with irresistible121 energy to the warmer lowlands, where they vanish in glad, rejoicing streams.
In the sober weather of Oregon lightning makes but little show. Those magnificent thunderstorms that so frequently adorn122 and glorify123 the sky of the Mississippi Valley are wanting here. Dull thunder and lightning may occasionally be seen and heard, but the imposing grandeur124 of great storms marching over the landscape with streaming banners and a network of fire is almost wholly unknown.
Crossing the Cascade Range, we pass from a green to a gray country, from a wilderness of trees to a wilderness of open plains, level or rolling or rising here and there into hills and short mountain spurs. Though well supplied with rivers in most of its main sections, it is generally dry. The annual rainfall is only from about five to fifteen inches, and the thin winter garment of snow seldom lasts more than a month or two, though the temperature in many places falls from five to twenty-five degrees below zero for a short time. That the snow is light over eastern Oregon, and the average temperature not intolerably severe, is shown by the fact that large droves of sheep, cattle, and horses live there through the winter without other food or shelter than they find for themselves on the open plains or down in the sunken valleys and gorges125 along the streams.
When we read of the mountain ranges of Oregon and Washington with detailed126 descriptions of their old volcanoes towering snow-laden and glacier-laden above the clouds, one may be led to imagine that the country is far icier and whiter and more mountainous than it is. Only in winter are the Coast and Cascade Mountains covered with snow. Then as seen from the main interior valleys they appear as comparatively low, bossy127 walls stretching along the horizon and making a magnificent display of their white wealth. The Coast Range in Oregon does not perhaps average more than three thousand feet in height. Its snow does not last long, most of its soil is fertile all the way to the summits, and the greater part of the range may at some time be brought under cultivation128. The immense deposits on the great central uplift of the Cascade Range are mostly melted off before the middle of summer by the comparatively warm winds and rains from the coast, leaving only a few white spots on the highest ridges, where the depth from drifting has been greatest, or where the rate of waste has been diminished by specially129 favorable conditions as to exposure. Only the great volcanic cones130 are truly snow-clad all the year, and these are not numerous and make but a small portion of the general landscape.
As we approach Oregon from the coast in summer, no hint of snowy mountains can be seen, and it is only after we have sailed into the country by the Columbia, or climbed some one of the commanding summits, that the great white peaks send us greeting and make telling advertisements of themselves and of the country over which they rule. So, also, in coming to Oregon from the east the country by no means impresses one as being surpassingly mountainous, the abode131 of peaks and glaciers. Descending132 the spurs of the Rocky Mountains into the basin of the Columbia, we see hot, hundred-mile plains, roughened here the there by hills and ridges that look hazy133 and blue in the distance, until we have pushed well to the westward. Then one white point after another comes into sight to refresh the eye and the imagination; but they are yet a long way off, and have much to say only to those who know them or others of their kind. How grand they are, though insignificant-looking on the edge of the vast landscape! What noble woods they nourish, and emerald meadows and gardens! What springs and streams and waterfalls sing about them and to what a multitude of happy creatures they give homes and food!
The principal mountains of the range are Mounts Pitt, Scott, and Thielson, Diamond Peak, the Three Sisters, Mounts Jefferson, Hood134, St. Helen's, Adams, Rainier, Aix, and Baker135. Of these the seven first named belong to Oregon, the others to Washington. They rise singly at irregular distances from one another along the main axis136 of the range or near it, with an elevation137 of from about eight thousand to fourteen thousand four hundred feet above the level of the sea. From few points in the valleys may more than three or four of them be seen, and of the more distant ones of these only the tops appear. Therefore, speaking generally, each of the lowland landscapes of the State contains only one grand snowy mountain.
The heights back of Portland command one of the best general views of the forests and also of the most famous of the great mountains both of Oregon and Washington. Mount Hood is in full view, with the summits of Mounts Jefferson, St. Helen's, Adams, and Rainier in the distance. The city of Portland is at our feet, covering a large area along both banks of the Willamette, and, with its fine streets, schools, churches, mills, shipping138, parks, and gardens, makes a telling picture of busy, aspiring139 civilization in the midst of the green wilderness in which it is planted. The river is displayed to fine advantage in the foreground of our main view, sweeping140 in beautiful curves around rich, leafy islands, its banks fringed with willows142.
A few miles beyond the Willamette flows the renowned143 Columbia, and the confluence144 of these two great rivers is at a point only about ten miles below the city. Beyond the Columbia extends the immense breadth of the forest, one dim, black, monotonous145 field with only the sky, which one is glad to see is not forested, and the tops of the majestic old volcanoes to give diversity to the view. That sharp, white, broad-based pyramid on the south side of the Columbia, a few degrees to the south of east from where you stand, is the famous Mount Hood. The distance to it in a straight line is about fifty miles. Its upper slopes form the only bare ground, bare as to forests, in the landscape in that direction. It is the pride of Oregonians, and when it is visible is always pointed146 out to strangers as the glory of the country, the mountain of mountains. It is one of the grand series of extinct volcanoes extending from Lassen's Butte 31 to Mount Baker, a distance of about six hundred miles, which once flamed like gigantic watch-fires along the coast. Some of them have been active in recent times, but no considerable addition to the bulk of Mount Hood has been made for several centuries, as is shown by the amount of glacial denudation147 it has suffered. Its summit has been ground to a point, which gives it a rather thin, pinched appearance. It has a wide-flowing base, however, and is fairly well proportioned. Though it is eleven thousand feet high, it is too far off to make much show under ordinary conditions in so extensive a landscape. Through a great part of the summer it is invisible on account of smoke poured into the sky from burning woods, logging camps, mills, etc., and in winter for weeks at a time, or even months, it is in the clouds. Only in spring and early summer and in what there may chance to be of bright weather in winter is it or any of its companions at all clear or telling. From the Cascades on the Columbia it may be seen at a distance of twenty miles or thereabouts, or from other points up and down the river, and with the magnificent foreground it is very impressive. It gives the supreme148 touch of grandeur to all the main Columbia views, rising at every turn, solitary149, majestic, awe-inspiring, the ruling spirit of the landscape. But, like mountains everywhere, it varies greatly in impressiveness and apparent height at different times and seasons, not alone from differences as to the dimness or transparency of the air. Clear, or arrayed in clouds, it changes both in size and general expression. Now it looms150 up to an immense height and seems to draw near in tremendous grandeur and beauty, holding the eyes of every beholder151 in devout152 and awful interest. Next year or next day, or even in the same day, you return to the same point of view, perhaps to find that the glory has departed, as if the mountain had died and the poor dull, shrunken mass of rocks and ice had lost all power to charm.
Never shall I forget my first glorious view of Mount Hood one calm evening in July, though I had seen it many times before this. I was then sauntering with a friend across the new Willamette bridge between Portland and East Portland for the sake of the river views, which are here very fine in the tranquil153 summer weather. The scene on the water was a lively one. Boats of every description were gliding154, glinting, drifting about at work or play, and we leaned over the rail from time to time, contemplating155 the gay throng156. Several lines of ferry boats were making regular trips at intervals of a few minutes, and river steamers were coming and going from the wharves157, laden with all sorts of merchandise, raising long diverging158 swells159 that make all the light pleasure craft bow and nod in hearty salutation as they passed. The crowd was being constantly increased by new arrivals from both shores, sailboats, rowboats, racing160 shells, rafts, were loaded with gayly dressed people, and here and there some adventurous man or boy might be seen as a merry sailor on a single plank161 or spar, apparently as deep in enjoyment162 as were any on the water. It seemed as if all the town were coming to the river, renouncing163 the cares and toils164 of the day, determined165 to take the evening breeze into their pulses, and be cool and tranquil ere going to bed.
Absorbed in the happy scene, given up to dreamy, random166 observation of what lay immediately before me, I was not conscious of anything occurring on the outer rim167 of the landscape. Forest, mountain, and sky were forgotten, when my companion suddenly directed my attention to the eastward168, shouting, "Oh, look! look!" in so loud and excited a tone of voice that passers-by, saunterers like ourselves, were startled and looked over the bridge as if expecting to see some boat upset. Looking across the forest, over which the mellow169 light of the sunset was streaming, I soon discovered the source of my friend's excitement. There stood Mount Hood in all the glory of the alpenglow, looming170 immensely high, beaming with intelligence, and so impressive that one was overawed as if suddenly brought before some superior being newly arrived from the sky.
The atmosphere was somewhat hazy, but the mountain seemed neither near nor far. Its glaciers flashed in the divine light. The rugged171, storm-worn ridges between them and the snowfields of the summit, these perhaps might have been traced as far as they were in sight, and the blending zones of color about the base. But so profound was the general impression, partial analysis did not come into play. The whole mountain appeared as one glorious manifestation113 of divine power, enthusiastic and benevolent172, glowing like a countenance173 with ineffable174 repose175 and beauty, before which we could only gaze in devout and lowly admiration176.
The far-famed Oregon forests cover all the western section of the State, the mountains as well as the lowlands, with the exception of a few gravelly spots and open spaces in the central portions of the great cultivated valleys. Beginning on the coast, where their outer ranks are drenched177 and buffeted178 by wind-driven scud179 from the sea, they press on in close, majestic ranks over the coast mountains, across the broad central valleys, and over the Cascade Range, broken and halted only by the few great peaks that rise like islands above the sea of evergreens.
In descending the eastern slopes of the Cascades the rich, abounding180, triumphant181 exuberance of the trees is quickly subdued182; they become smaller, grow wide apart, leaving dry spaces without moss98 covering or underbrush, and before the foot of the range is reached, fail altogether, stayed by the drouth of the interior almost as suddenly as on the western margin183 they are stayed by the sea. Here and there at wide intervals on the eastern plains patches of a small pine (Pinus contorta) are found, and a scattering184 growth of juniper, used by the settlers mostly for fence posts and firewood. Along the stream bottoms there is usually more or less of cottonwood and willow141, which, though yielding inferior timber, is yet highly prized in this bare region. On the Blue Mountains there is pine, spruce, fir, and larch185 in abundance for every use, but beyond this range there is nothing that may be called a forest in the Columbia River basin, until we reach the spurs of the Rocky Mountains; and these Rocky Mountain forests are made up of trees which, compared with the giants of the Pacific Slope, are mere186 saplings.
点击收听单词发音
1 evergreen | |
n.常青树;adj.四季常青的 | |
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2 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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3 countless | |
adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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4 hearty | |
adj.热情友好的;衷心的;尽情的,纵情的 | |
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5 wholesome | |
adj.适合;卫生的;有益健康的;显示身心健康的 | |
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6 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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7 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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8 overflowing | |
n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的,充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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9 lava | |
n.熔岩,火山岩 | |
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10 bogs | |
n.沼泽,泥塘( bog的名词复数 );厕所v.(使)陷入泥沼, (使)陷入困境( bog的第三人称单数 );妨碍,阻碍 | |
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11 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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12 exquisitely | |
adv.精致地;强烈地;剧烈地;异常地 | |
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13 icebergs | |
n.冰山,流冰( iceberg的名词复数 ) | |
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14 boundless | |
adj.无限的;无边无际的;巨大的 | |
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15 inviting | |
adj.诱人的,引人注目的 | |
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16 sublimity | |
崇高,庄严,气质高尚 | |
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17 exuberance | |
n.丰富;繁荣 | |
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18 superstition | |
n.迷信,迷信行为 | |
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19 adventurous | |
adj.爱冒险的;惊心动魄的,惊险的,刺激的 | |
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20 promising | |
adj.有希望的,有前途的 | |
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21 wagon | |
n.四轮马车,手推车,面包车;无盖运货列车 | |
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22 wagons | |
n.四轮的运货马车( wagon的名词复数 );铁路货车;小手推车 | |
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23 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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24 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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25 savages | |
未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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26 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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27 lashing | |
n.鞭打;痛斥;大量;许多v.鞭打( lash的现在分词 );煽动;紧系;怒斥 | |
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28 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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29 emigrant | |
adj.移居的,移民的;n.移居外国的人,移民 | |
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30 emigrants | |
n.(从本国移往他国的)移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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31 steamships | |
n.汽船,大轮船( steamship的名词复数 ) | |
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32 motives | |
n.动机,目的( motive的名词复数 ) | |
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33 purely | |
adv.纯粹地,完全地 | |
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34 salmon | |
n.鲑,大马哈鱼,橙红色的 | |
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35 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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36 invitingly | |
adv. 动人地 | |
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37 bluffs | |
恐吓( bluff的名词复数 ); 悬崖; 峭壁 | |
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38 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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39 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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40 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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41 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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42 swirled | |
v.旋转,打旋( swirl的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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43 abruptness | |
n. 突然,唐突 | |
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44 foam | |
v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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45 scramble | |
v.爬行,攀爬,杂乱蔓延,碎片,片段,废料 | |
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46 glistening | |
adj.闪耀的,反光的v.湿物闪耀,闪亮( glisten的现在分词 ) | |
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47 marvels | |
n.奇迹( marvel的名词复数 );令人惊奇的事物(或事例);不平凡的成果;成就v.惊奇,对…感到惊奇( marvel的第三人称单数 ) | |
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48 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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49 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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50 withered | |
adj. 枯萎的,干瘪的,(人身体的部分器官)因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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51 crouching | |
v.屈膝,蹲伏( crouch的现在分词 ) | |
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52 jutting | |
v.(使)突出( jut的现在分词 );伸出;(从…)突出;高出 | |
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53 exulting | |
vi. 欢欣鼓舞,狂喜 | |
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54 gathering | |
n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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55 gulch | |
n.深谷,峡谷 | |
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56 sublime | |
adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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57 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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58 fragrance | |
n.芬芳,香味,香气 | |
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59 evergreens | |
n.常青树,常绿植物,万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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60 gorge | |
n.咽喉,胃,暴食,山峡;v.塞饱,狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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61 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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62 influential | |
adj.有影响的,有权势的 | |
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63 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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64 barley | |
n.大麦,大麦粒 | |
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65 cascades | |
倾泻( cascade的名词复数 ); 小瀑布(尤指一连串瀑布中的一支); 瀑布状物; 倾泻(或涌出)的东西 | |
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66 rogue | |
n.流氓;v.游手好闲 | |
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67 sloppy | |
adj.邋遢的,不整洁的 | |
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68 ripen | |
vt.使成熟;vi.成熟 | |
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69 ripening | |
v.成熟,使熟( ripen的现在分词 );熟化;熟成 | |
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70 garnered | |
v.收集并(通常)贮藏(某物),取得,获得( garner的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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71 bland | |
adj.淡而无味的,温和的,无刺激性的 | |
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72 fiber | |
n.纤维,纤维质 | |
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73 malarial | |
患疟疾的,毒气的 | |
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74 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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75 liking | |
n.爱好;嗜好;喜欢 | |
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76 compliance | |
n.顺从;服从;附和;屈从 | |
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77 plodding | |
a.proceeding in a slow or dull way | |
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78 halfway | |
adj.中途的,不彻底的,部分的;adv.半路地,在中途,在半途 | |
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79 plumb | |
adv.精确地,完全地;v.了解意义,测水深 | |
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80 toad | |
n.蟾蜍,癞蛤蟆 | |
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81 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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82 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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83 spokes | |
n.(车轮的)辐条( spoke的名词复数 );轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 | |
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84 rattle | |
v.飞奔,碰响;激怒;n.碰撞声;拨浪鼓 | |
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85 swap | |
n.交换;vt.交换,用...作交易 | |
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86 scatter | |
vt.撒,驱散,散开;散布/播;vi.分散,消散 | |
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87 herds | |
兽群( herd的名词复数 ); 牧群; 人群; 群众 | |
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88 tiresome | |
adj.令人疲劳的,令人厌倦的 | |
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89 labor | |
n.劳动,努力,工作,劳工;分娩;vi.劳动,努力,苦干;vt.详细分析;麻烦 | |
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90 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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91 astronomers | |
n.天文学者,天文学家( astronomer的名词复数 ) | |
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92 delicacy | |
n.精致,细微,微妙,精良;美味,佳肴 | |
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93 caress | |
vt./n.爱抚,抚摸 | |
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94 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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95 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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96 axe | |
n.斧子;v.用斧头砍,削减 | |
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97 mosses | |
n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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98 moss | |
n.苔,藓,地衣 | |
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99 tingling | |
v.有刺痛感( tingle的现在分词 ) | |
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100 cedars | |
雪松,西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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101 muffled | |
adj.(声音)被隔的;听不太清的;(衣服)裹严的;蒙住的v.压抑,捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 );用厚厚的衣帽包着(自己) | |
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102 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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103 bent | |
n.爱好,癖好;adj.弯的;决心的,一心的 | |
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104 obliterated | |
v.除去( obliterate的过去式和过去分词 );涂去;擦掉;彻底破坏或毁灭 | |
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105 groves | |
树丛,小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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106 awakening | |
n.觉醒,醒悟 adj.觉醒中的;唤醒的 | |
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107 volcanic | |
adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
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108 laden | |
adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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109 descends | |
v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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110 avalanches | |
n.雪崩( avalanche的名词复数 ) | |
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111 glaciers | |
冰河,冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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112 manifestations | |
n.表示,显示(manifestation的复数形式) | |
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113 manifestation | |
n.表现形式;表明;现象 | |
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114 snug | |
adj.温暖舒适的,合身的,安全的;v.使整洁干净,舒适地依靠,紧贴;n.(英)酒吧里的私房 | |
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115 shuffle | |
n.拖著脚走,洗纸牌;v.拖曳,慢吞吞地走 | |
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116 exalting | |
a.令人激动的,令人喜悦的 | |
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117 swirling | |
v.旋转,打旋( swirl的现在分词 ) | |
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118 swarms | |
蜂群,一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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119 smothering | |
(使)窒息, (使)透不过气( smother的现在分词 ); 覆盖; 忍住; 抑制 | |
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120 steadily | |
adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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121 irresistible | |
adj.非常诱人的,无法拒绝的,无法抗拒的 | |
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122 adorn | |
vt.使美化,装饰 | |
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123 glorify | |
vt.颂扬,赞美,使增光,美化 | |
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124 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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125 gorges | |
n.山峡,峡谷( gorge的名词复数 );咽喉v.(用食物把自己)塞饱,填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 );作呕 | |
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126 detailed | |
adj.详细的,详尽的,极注意细节的,完全的 | |
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127 bossy | |
adj.爱发号施令的,作威作福的 | |
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128 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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129 specially | |
adv.特定地;特殊地;明确地 | |
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130 cones | |
n.(人眼)圆锥细胞;圆锥体( cone的名词复数 );球果;圆锥形东西;(盛冰淇淋的)锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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131 abode | |
n.住处,住所 | |
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132 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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133 hazy | |
adj.有薄雾的,朦胧的;不肯定的,模糊的 | |
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134 hood | |
n.头巾,兜帽,覆盖;v.罩上,以头巾覆盖 | |
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135 baker | |
n.面包师 | |
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136 axis | |
n.轴,轴线,中心线;坐标轴,基准线 | |
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137 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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138 shipping | |
n.船运(发货,运输,乘船) | |
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139 aspiring | |
adj.有志气的;有抱负的;高耸的v.渴望;追求 | |
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140 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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141 willow | |
n.柳树 | |
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142 willows | |
n.柳树( willow的名词复数 );柳木 | |
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143 renowned | |
adj.著名的,有名望的,声誉鹊起的 | |
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144 confluence | |
n.汇合,聚集 | |
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145 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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146 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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147 denudation | |
n.剥下;裸露;滥伐;剥蚀 | |
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148 supreme | |
adj.极度的,最重要的;至高的,最高的 | |
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149 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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150 looms | |
n.织布机( loom的名词复数 )v.隐约出现,阴森地逼近( loom的第三人称单数 );隐约出现,阴森地逼近 | |
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151 beholder | |
n.观看者,旁观者 | |
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152 devout | |
adj.虔诚的,虔敬的,衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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153 tranquil | |
adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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154 gliding | |
v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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155 contemplating | |
深思,细想,仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 ); 注视,凝视; 考虑接受(发生某事的可能性); 深思熟虑,沉思,苦思冥想 | |
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156 throng | |
n.人群,群众;v.拥挤,群集 | |
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157 wharves | |
n.码头,停泊处( wharf的名词复数 ) | |
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158 diverging | |
分开( diverge的现在分词 ); 偏离; 分歧; 分道扬镳 | |
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159 swells | |
增强( swell的第三人称单数 ); 肿胀; (使)凸出; 充满(激情) | |
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160 racing | |
n.竞赛,赛马;adj.竞赛用的,赛马用的 | |
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161 plank | |
n.板条,木板,政策要点,政纲条目 | |
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162 enjoyment | |
n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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163 renouncing | |
v.声明放弃( renounce的现在分词 );宣布放弃;宣布与…决裂;宣布摒弃 | |
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164 toils | |
网 | |
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165 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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166 random | |
adj.随机的;任意的;n.偶然的(或随便的)行动 | |
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167 rim | |
n.(圆物的)边,轮缘;边界 | |
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168 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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169 mellow | |
adj.柔和的;熟透的;v.变柔和;(使)成熟 | |
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170 looming | |
n.上现蜃景(光通过低层大气发生异常折射形成的一种海市蜃楼)v.隐约出现,阴森地逼近( loom的现在分词 );隐约出现,阴森地逼近 | |
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171 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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172 benevolent | |
adj.仁慈的,乐善好施的 | |
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173 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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174 ineffable | |
adj.无法表达的,不可言喻的 | |
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175 repose | |
v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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176 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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177 drenched | |
adj.湿透的;充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 );在某人(某物)上大量使用(某液体) | |
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178 buffeted | |
反复敲打( buffet的过去式和过去分词 ); 连续猛击; 打来打去; 推来搡去 | |
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179 scud | |
n.疾行;v.疾行 | |
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180 abounding | |
adj.丰富的,大量的v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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181 triumphant | |
adj.胜利的,成功的;狂欢的,喜悦的 | |
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182 subdued | |
adj. 屈服的,柔和的,减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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183 margin | |
n.页边空白;差额;余地,余裕;边,边缘 | |
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184 scattering | |
n.[物]散射;散乱,分散;在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的;分散在不同范围的;广泛扩散的;(选票)数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式);散布;驱散 | |
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185 larch | |
n.落叶松 | |
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186 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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