In the morning the trees stood perfectly1 still: yellow, yellowish-green, crimson2, russet. Not a pulse of air stirred their stricken foliage3, but the leaves left the spray and dripped silently, vertically4 down, with a faint, ticking sound. They fell like the tears of a grief which is too inward for any other outward sign; an absent grief, almost self-forgetful. By-and-by, softly, very softly, as Nature does things when she emulates5 the best Art and shuns6 the showiness and noisiness of the second-best, the wind crept in from the leaden sea, which turned iron under it, corrugated8 iron. Then the trees began to bend, and writhe9, and sigh, and moan; and their leaves flew through the air, and blew and scuttled10 over the grass, and in an hour all the boughs11 were bare. The summer, which had been living till then and dying, was now dead.
That was the reason why certain people who had been living with it, and seemed dying in it, were now in a manner dead with it, so that their ghosts were glad to get back to town, where the ghosts of thousands and hundreds of thousands of others were hustling12 in the streets and the trolleys13 and subways and elevateds, and shops and factories and offices, and making believe to be much more alive than they were in the country. Yet the town, the haunt of those harassed15 and hurried spectres, who are not without their illusory hilarity16, their phantasmal happiness, has a charm which we of the Easy Chair always feel, on first returning to it in the autumn, and which the representative of the family we are imagining finds rather an impassioned pleasure in. He came on to New York, while the others lingered in a dim Bostonian limbo17, and he amused himself very well, in a shadowy sort, looking at those other shades who had arrived in like sort, or different, and were there together with him in those fine days just preceding the election; after which the season broke in tears again, and the autumn advanced another step toward winter.
There is no moment of the New York year which is more characteristic of it than that mid-autumnal moment, which the summer and the winter are equally far from. Mid-May is very well, and the weather then is perfect, but that is a moment pierced with the unrest of going or getting ready to go away. The call of the eld in Europe, or the call of the wild in Newport, has already depopulated our streets of what is richest and naturally best in our city life; the shops, indeed, show a fevered activity in the near-richest and near-best who are providing for their summer wants at mountain or sea-shore; but the theatres are closing like fading flowers, and shedding their chorus-girls on every outward breeze; the tables d'h?te express a relaxed enterprise in the nonchalance18 of the management and service; the hotels yawn wearily from their hollow rooms; the greengroceries try to mask the barrenness of their windows in a show of tropic or semi-tropic fruits; the provision-men merely disgust with their retarded20 displays of butcher's meats and poultry21.
broadway
BROADWAY AT NIGHT
But with what a difference the mid-autumn of the town welcomes its returners! Ghosts, we have called them, mainly to humor a figure we began with, but they are ghosts rather in the meaning of revenants, which is a good meaning enough. They must be a very aged22 or very stupid sort of revenants if their palingenetic substance does not thrill at the first nightly vision of Broadway, of that fairy flare23 of electric lights, advertising24 whiskeys and actresses and beers, and luring25 the beholder26 into a hundred hotels and theatres and restaurants. It is now past the hour of roof-gardens with their songs and dances, but the vaudeville27 is in full bloom, and the play-houses are blossoming in the bills of their new comedies and operas and burlesques28. The pavements are filled, but not yet crowded, with people going to dinner at the tables d'h?te; the shop windows glitter and shine, and promise a delight for the morrow which the morrow may or may not realize.
But as yet the town is not replete29 to choking, as it will be later, when those who fancy they constitute the town have got back to it from their Europes, their Newports, their Bar Harbors, their Lenoxes, their Tuxedos30, weary of scorning delights and living laborious31 days in that round of intellectual and moral events duly celebrated32 in the society news of the Sunday papers. Fifth Avenue abounds33 in automobiles34 but does not yet super-abound; you do not quite take your life in your hand in crossing the street at those corners where there is no policeman's hand to put it in. Everywhere are cars, carts, carriages; and the motorist whirs through the intersecting streets and round the corners, bent35 on suicide or homicide, and the kind old trolleys and hansoms that once seemed so threatening have almost become so many arks of safety from the furious machines replacing them. But a few short years ago the passer on the Avenue could pride himself on a count of twenty automobiles in his walk from Murray Hill to the Plaza36; now he can easily number hundreds, without an emotion of self-approval.
But their abundance is only provisional, a mere19 forecast of the superabundance to come. All things are provisional, all sights, all sounds, and this forms the peculiar37 charm of the hour, its haunting and winning charm. If you take the omnibus-top to be trundled whiningly38 up to one of the farther east-side entrances of the Park, and then dismount and walk back to the Plaza through it, you are even more keenly aware of the suspensive quality of the time. The summer, which you left for dead by mountain or sea-shore, stirs with lingering consciousness in the bland40 air of the great pleasance. Many leaves are yet green on the trees, and where they are not green and not there they are gay on the grass under the trees. There are birds, not, to be sure, singing, but cheerfully chirping41; and there are occasional blazons42 of courageous43 flowers; the benches beside the walks, which the northern blasts will soon sweep bare, are still kept by the lovers and loafers who have frequented them ever since the spring, and by the nurses, who cumber44 the footway before them with their perambulators. The fat squirrels waddle45 over the asphalt, and cock the impudent46 eye of the sturdy beggar at the passer whom they suspect of latent peanuts; it is high carnival47 of the children with hoops48 and balls; it is the supreme49 moment of the saddle-donkeys in the by-paths, and the carriage-goats in the Mall, and of the rowboats on the ponds, which presently will be withdrawn50 for their secret hibernation51, where no man can find them out. When the first snow flies, even while it is yet poising52 for flight in the dim pits of air, all these delights will have vanished, and the winter, which will claim the city for its own through a good four months, will be upon it.
Always come back, therefore, if you must come at all, about the beginning of November, and if you can manage to take in Election Day, and especially Election Night, it will not be a bad notion. New York has five saturnalia every year: New Year's Night, Decoration Day, Fourth of July, Election Night, and Thanksgiving, and not the least of these is Election Night. If it is a right first Tuesday of November, the daytime wind will be veering53 from west to south and back, sun and cloud will equally share the hours between them, and a not unnatural54 quiet, as of political passions hushed under the blanket of the Australian ballot55, will prevail. The streets will be rather emptied than filled, and the litter of straw and scrap-paper, and the ordure and other filth56 of the great slattern town, will blow agreeably about under your feet and into your eyes and teeth. But with the falling of the night there will be a rise of the urban spirits; the sidewalks will thicken with citizens of all ages and sexes and nations; and if you will then seek some large centre for the cinematographic dissemination57 of the election news, you will find yourself one of a multitude gloating on the scenes of comedy and tragedy thrown up on the canvas to stay your impatience58 for the returns. Along the curbstones are stationed wagons59 for the sale of the wind and string instruments, whose raw, harsh discords60 of whistling and twanging will begin with the sight of the vote from the first precinct. Meantime policemen, nervously61 fondling their clubs in their hands, hang upon the fringes of the crowd, which is yet so good-natured that it seems to have no impulse but to lift children on its shoulders and put pretty girls before it, and caress62 old women and cripples into favorable positions, so that they may see better. You will wish to leave it before the clubbing begins, and either go home to the slumbers63 which the whistling and twanging will duly attend; or join the diners going into or coming out of the restaurants, or the throngs64 strolling down into the fairy realms of Broadway, under the flare of the whiskeys and the actresses.
At such a time it is best to be young, but it is not so very bad to be old, for the charm of the hour, the air, and the place is such that even the heart of age must rise a little at it. What the night may really be, if it is not positively65 raining, you "do not know or need to know." Those soft lamps overhead, which might alike seem let garlanding down from the vault66 above or flowering up from the gulfs below out of a still greater pyrotechnic richness, supply the defect, if there is any, of moon and stars. Only the air is actual, the air of the New York night, which is as different from that of the London night as from that of the Paris night, or, for all we know, the St. Petersburg night. At times we have fancied in its early autumnal tones something Florentine, something Venetian, but, after all, it is not quite either, even when the tones of these are crudest. It is the subtlest, the most penetrating67 expression of the New York temperament68; but what that is, who shall say? That mystic air is haunted little from the past, for properly speaking there never was a city so unhistorical in temperament. A record of civic69 corruption70, running back to the first servants of the Dutch Companies, does not constitute municipal history, and our part in national events from the time we felt the stirrings of national consciousness has not been glorious, as these have not been impressive. Of New York's present at any given moment you wish to say in her patient-impatient slang, "Forget it, forget it." There remains71 only the future from which she can derive72 that temperamental effect in her night air; but, again, what that is, who shall say? If any one were so daring, he might say it was confidence modified by anxiety; a rash expectation of luck derived73 from immunity74 for past transgression75; the hopes of youth shot with youth's despairs: not sweet, innocent youth, but youth knowing and experienced, though not unwilling76 to shun7 evil because of the bad morrow it sometimes brings. No other city under the sun, we doubt, is so expressive77 of that youth: that modern youth, able, agile78, eager, audacious; not the youth of the poets, but the youth of the true, the grim realists.
crowds
ELECTION-NIGHT CROWDS
Something, a faint, faint consciousness of this, visits even the sad heart of age on any New York night when it is not raining too hard, and one thinks only of getting indoors, where all nights are alike. But mostly it comes when the autumn is dreaming toward winter in that interlude of the seasons which we call Indian Summer. It is a stretch of time which we have handsomely bestowed79 upon our aborigines, in compensation for the four seasons we have taken from them, like some of those Reservations which we have left them in lieu of the immeasurable lands we have alienated80. It used to be longer than it is now; it used to be several weeks long; in the sense of childhood, it was almost months. It is still qualitatively81 the same, and it is more than any other time expressive of the New York temperament, perhaps because we have honored in the civic ideal the polity of our Indian predecessors82, and in Tammany and its recurrently triumphant83 braves, have kept their memory green. But if this is not so, the spiritual fact remains, and under the sky of the Election Night you feel New York as you do in no other hour. The sense extends through the other autumn nights till that night, sure to come, when the pensive39 weather breaks in tears, and the next day it rains and rains, and the streets stream with the flood, and the dull air reeks84 with a sort of inner steam, hot, close, and sticky as a brother: a brother whose wants are many and whose resources are few. The morning after the storm, there will be a keen thrill in the air, keen but wholesome85 and bracing86 as a good resolution and not necessarily more lasting87. The asphalt has been washed as clean as a renovated88 conscience, and the city presses forward again to the future in which alone it has its being, with the gay confidence of a sinner who has forgiven himself his sins and is no longer sorry for them.
After that interlude, when the streets of the Advanced Vaudeville, which we know as New York, begin again and continue till the Chasers come in late May, there will be many other sorts of weather, but none so characteristic of her. There will be the sort of weather toward the end of January, when really it seems as if nothing else could console him for the intolerable freezing and thawing89, the snow upon snow, the rain upon rain, the winds that soak him and the winds that shrivel him, and the suns that mock him from a subtropic sky through subarctic air. We foresee him then settling into his arm-chair, while the wind whistles as naturally as the wind in the theatre around the angles of his lofty flat, and drives the snow of the shredded91 paper through the air or beats it in soft clots92 against the pane93. He turns our page, and as he catches our vague drift, before yielding himself wholly to its allure94, he questions, as readers like to do, whether the writer is altogether right in his contention95 that the mid-autumnal moment is the most characteristic moment of the New York year. Is not the mid-winter moment yet more characteristic? He conjures96 up, in the rich content of his indoor remoteness, the vision of the vile97 street below his flat, banked high with the garnered98 heaps of filthy99 snow, which alternately freeze and thaw90, which the rain does not wash nor the wind blow away, and which the shredded-paper flakes100 are now drifting higher. He sees the foot-passers struggling under their umbrellas toward the avenues where the reluctant trolleys pause jarringly for them, and the elevated trains roar along the trestle overhead; where the saloon winks101 a wicked eye on every corner; where the signs of the whiskeys and actresses flare through the thickened night; and the cab tilts102 and rocks across the trolley14 rails, and the crowds of hotel-sojourners seek the shelter of the theatres, and all is bleak103 and wet and squalid. In more respectful vision he beholds104 the darkened mansions105 of the richest and best, who have already fled the scene of their brief winter revel106 and are forcing the spring in their Floridas, their Egypts, their Rivieras. He himself remains midway between the last fall and the next spring; and perhaps he decides against the writer, as the perverse107 reader sometimes will, and holds that this hour of suspense108 and misgiving109 is the supreme, the duodecimal hour of the metropolitan110 dial. He may be right; who knows? New York's hours are all characteristic; and the hour whose mystical quality we have been trying to intimate is already past, and we must wait another year before we can put it to the test again; wait till the trees once more stand perfectly still: yellow, yellowish-green, crimson, russet, and the wind comes up and blows them bare, and yet another summer is dead, and the mourners, the ghosts, the revenants have once more returned to town.
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1
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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3
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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vertically
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| adv.垂直地 | |
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emulates
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| v.与…竞争( emulate的第三人称单数 )；努力赶上；计算机程序等仿真；模仿 | |
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shuns
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| v.避开，回避，避免( shun的第三人称单数 ) | |
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shun
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| vt.避开，回避，避免 | |
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corrugated
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| adj.波纹的；缩成皱纹的；波纹面的；波纹状的v.（使某物）起皱褶(corrugate的过去式和过去分词) | |
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9
writhe
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| vt.挣扎，痛苦地扭曲；vi.扭曲，翻腾，受苦；n.翻腾，苦恼 | |
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scuttled
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| v.使船沉没( scuttle的过去式和过去分词 )；快跑，急走 | |
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boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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hustling
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| 催促（hustle的现在分词形式） | |
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trolleys
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| n.（两轮或四轮的）手推车( trolley的名词复数 )；装有脚轮的小台车；电车 | |
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trolley
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| n.手推车，台车；无轨电车；有轨电车 | |
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harassed
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| adj. 疲倦的，厌烦的 动词harass的过去式和过去分词 | |
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hilarity
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| n.欢乐；热闹 | |
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limbo
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| n.地狱的边缘；监狱 | |
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nonchalance
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| n.冷淡，漠不关心 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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retarded
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| a.智力迟钝的，智力发育迟缓的 | |
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poultry
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| n.家禽，禽肉 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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flare
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| v.闪耀，闪烁；n.潮红；突发 | |
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advertising
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| n.广告业；广告活动 a.广告的；广告业务的 | |
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luring
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| 吸引，引诱（lure的现在分词形式） | |
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beholder
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| n.观看者，旁观者 | |
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vaudeville
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| n.歌舞杂耍表演 | |
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burlesques
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| n.滑稽模仿( burlesque的名词复数 )；（包括脱衣舞的）滑稽歌舞杂剧v.（嘲弄地）模仿，（通过模仿）取笑( burlesque的第三人称单数 ) | |
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replete
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| adj.饱满的，塞满的；n.贮蜜蚁 | |
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tuxedos
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| n.餐服，无尾晚礼服( tuxedo的名词复数 ) | |
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laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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abounds
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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automobiles
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| n.汽车( automobile的名词复数 ) | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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plaza
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| n.广场，市场 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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whiningly
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pensive
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| a.沉思的,哀思的,忧沉的 | |
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bland
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| adj.淡而无味的，温和的，无刺激性的 | |
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chirping
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| 鸟叫，虫鸣( chirp的现在分词 ) | |
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blazons
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| v.广布( blazon的第三人称单数 )；宣布；夸示；装饰 | |
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courageous
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| adj.勇敢的，有胆量的 | |
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cumber
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| v.拖累，妨碍；n.妨害；拖累 | |
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waddle
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| vi.摇摆地走；n.摇摆的走路(样子) | |
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impudent
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| adj.鲁莽的，卑鄙的，厚颜无耻的 | |
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carnival
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| n.嘉年华会，狂欢，狂欢节，巡回表演 | |
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hoops
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| n.箍( hoop的名词复数 )；（篮球）篮圈；（旧时儿童玩的）大环子；（两端埋在地里的）小铁弓 | |
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49
supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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50
withdrawn
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| vt.收回；使退出；vi.撤退，退出 | |
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51
hibernation
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| n.冬眠 | |
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52
poising
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| 使平衡( poise的现在分词 )； 保持（某种姿势）； 抓紧； 使稳定 | |
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53
veering
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| n.改变的；犹豫的；顺时针方向转向；特指使船尾转向上风来改变航向v.（尤指交通工具）改变方向或路线( veer的现在分词 )；（指谈话内容、人的行为或观点）突然改变；（指风） （在北半球按顺时针方向、在南半球按逆时针方向）逐渐转向；风向顺时针转 | |
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54
unnatural
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| adj.不自然的；反常的 | |
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ballot
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| n.（不记名）投票，投票总数，投票权；vi.投票 | |
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filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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dissemination
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| 传播,宣传,传染(病毒) | |
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impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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wagons
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| n.四轮的运货马车( wagon的名词复数 )；铁路货车；小手推车 | |
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discords
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| 不和（discord的复数形式） | |
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nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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62
caress
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| vt./n.爱抚，抚摸 | |
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slumbers
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| 睡眠，安眠( slumber的名词复数 ) | |
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throngs
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| n.人群( throng的名词复数 )v.成群，挤满( throng的第三人称单数 ) | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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vault
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| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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penetrating
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| adj.（声音）响亮的，尖锐的adj.（气味）刺激的adj.（思想）敏锐的，有洞察力的 | |
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temperament
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| n.气质，性格，性情 | |
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civic
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| adj.城市的，都市的，市民的，公民的 | |
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corruption
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| n.腐败，堕落，贪污 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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derive
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| v.取得；导出；引申；来自；源自；出自 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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immunity
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| n.优惠；免除；豁免，豁免权 | |
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transgression
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| n.违背；犯规；罪过 | |
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76
unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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agile
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| adj.敏捷的，灵活的 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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alienated
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| adj.感到孤独的，不合群的v.使疏远( alienate的过去式和过去分词 )；使不友好；转让；让渡（财产等） | |
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qualitatively
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| 质量上 | |
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predecessors
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| n.前任( predecessor的名词复数 )；前辈；（被取代的）原有事物；前身 | |
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triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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reeks
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| n.恶臭( reek的名词复数 )v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的第三人称单数 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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bracing
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| adj.令人振奋的 | |
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lasting
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| adj.永久的，永恒的；vbl.持续，维持 | |
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renovated
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| 翻新，修复，整修( renovate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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thawing
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| n.熔化，融化v.（气候）解冻( thaw的现在分词 )；（态度、感情等）缓和；（冰、雪及冷冻食物）溶化；软化 | |
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90
thaw
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| v.（使）融化，（使）变得友善；n.融化，缓和 | |
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shredded
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| shred的过去式和过去分词 | |
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clots
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| n.凝块( clot的名词复数 )；血块；蠢人；傻瓜v.凝固( clot的第三人称单数 ) | |
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pane
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| n.窗格玻璃，长方块 | |
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allure
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| n.诱惑力，魅力；vt.诱惑，引诱，吸引 | |
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contention
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| n.争论，争辩，论战；论点，主张 | |
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conjures
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| 用魔术变出( conjure的第三人称单数 )； 祈求，恳求； 变戏法； （变魔术般地） 使…出现 | |
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vile
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| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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garnered
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| v.收集并（通常）贮藏（某物），取得，获得( garner的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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filthy
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| adj.卑劣的；恶劣的，肮脏的 | |
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100
flakes
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| 小薄片( flake的名词复数 )； （尤指）碎片； 雪花； 古怪的人 | |
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winks
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| v.使眼色( wink的第三人称单数 )；递眼色（表示友好或高兴等）；（指光）闪烁；闪亮 | |
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tilts
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| （意欲赢得某物或战胜某人的）企图，尝试( tilt的名词复数 ) | |
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103
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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beholds
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| v.看，注视( behold的第三人称单数 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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mansions
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| n.宅第，公馆，大厦( mansion的名词复数 ) | |
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106
revel
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| vi.狂欢作乐，陶醉；n.作乐，狂欢 | |
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107
perverse
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| adj.刚愎的；坚持错误的，行为反常的 | |
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108
suspense
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| n.（对可能发生的事）紧张感，担心，挂虑 | |
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109
misgiving
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| n.疑虑，担忧，害怕 | |
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110
metropolitan
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| adj.大城市的，大都会的 | |
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