It would have been hard to have devised a worse way to open a new country. Thousands of people—strong, weak, the poor settler, the speculator, the gambler—were all here, man and wife, and spinster on her own responsibility. All waited for weeks on the border-land. At last the time came, and the gun was fired, and in confusion wild as a Comanche[294] raid, the great rush was made. Many sections being claimed by two and three parties, the occasion had its comic side, amid more that was tragic2. Thousands went in on cattle-cars, and as many more filled common coaches inside and out, and clung to the cow-catcher of the engine. In places wire fences were on either side of the railway; and men in trying to get through them in a hurry, often reached their land minus a large part of their clothing.
LOOKING FOR A TOWN LOT LOOKING FOR A TOWN LOT.
Page 294.
In one case a portly woman, taking the tortoise plan of slow and steady, reached the best section, while the men still hung in the fence like victims of a butcher-bird. It is said of one young woman, who made the run on horseback, that reaching a town-site, her horse stumbled, and she was thrown violently to the ground and stunned3. A passing man jumped off his horse, and sprinkled her face with water from his canteen; and as she revived, the first thing she said was, "This is my lot."
[295]"No, you don't," said the man. But to settle it they went to law, and the court decided4 in favor of the woman, as she struck the ground first.
Among much that was brutal5 and barbarous, some cases of chivalry6 were noticed. In one case a young woman was caught in a wire fence, and two young men went back, helped her out, and allowed her to take her choice of a section. One man, in his eagerness, found himself many miles from water. As he was driving his stake, he noticed that his horse was dying; and realizing his awful situation, being nearly exhausted7 with thirst, he cut his horses throat, drank the blood, and saved his own life.
The work done in six years is simply marvellous. Imagine the prairie described by Loomis as the place where you could see day after to-morrow coming up over the horizon; at times covered with flowers fair as the garden of the Lord, or covered with snow, and nothing to break the fury of the wind. Seventy-five thousand Indians[296] the only permanent residents in the morning; at night hundreds of thousands of whites—villages, towns, and cities started, in some of them a mayor chosen, a board of aldermen elected, and the staked-out streets under police control. The inhabitants were under tents for a few weeks, while sickness of all kinds attacked them. There were rattlesnakes of two varieties, tarantulas, two kinds of scorpions,—one, the most dangerous, a kind of lizard9, which also stings with its tail, and with often deadly effect,—and centipedes that grow to six inches in length. One of the latter was inside a shirt which came home from the laundry, and planted his many feet on the breast of one of our minute-men, and caused it to swell10 so fearfully that he thought at one time he should die. He recovered, but still at times feels the effect of the wounds, which are as numerous as the feet. The pain caused is intense, and the parts wounded slough11 off.
FORMING IN LINE TO VOTE FOR MAYOR FORMING IN LINE TO VOTE FOR MAYOR.
Page 296.
Now imagine all this; and then six[297] years after you visit this land, and find cities of ten thousand inhabitants, banks with polished granite12 pillars,—polished with three per cent per month interest,—great blocks, huge elevators, and fine hotels. And nowhere, even in Paris, will you find more style than among the well-to-do. And on the same streets where I saw all this, I also saw men picking kernels13 of corn out of an old cellar close by a second-hand14 store, where already the poor had given up and sold their furniture to get home.
I looked out of my hotel window one morning in "Old Oklahoma," and saw a lady walking past dressed in a lavender suit, a white hat with great ostrich15 feathers on it, by her side a gentleman as well groomed16 as any New York swell, an English greyhound ambled17 by their side, while in the rear were rough men with the ugly stiff hats usually worn by your frontier rough. Storekeepers were going to work in their shirt-sleeves. This was in a town of two thousand inhabitants,[298] where there were four banks, four newspapers, eleven churches, and only three saloons.
While I was there a most brutal murder took place,—a woman shot her step-daughter, killing18 her instantly. The husband, the girl's father, swept the blood from the sidewalk, and went down to the jail that night and stayed with the woman, while a fiddler was sent down to cheer her. This man was her fifth husband.
In the two weeks I was in that vicinity seven persons were killed. Three men had shot down some train-robbers, and after they were dead had filled their bodies with bullets. This so incensed19 the friends of the dead men that a number of them went to the house where the men had fortified20 themselves. When they saw how large a force was against them, they surrendered, their wives in the meanwhile begging the men who had come not to molest21 their husbands. But the women were pushed rudely aside, and[299] the men were carried to the hills and lynched. One murderer cost the Territory over fifteen thousand dollars. Banks have loaded pistols behind the wire windows, where they can be reached at a moment's notice.
Still, lawlessness is not the rule; and it has never been as bad as one city was farther north, where men were held up on the main street in broad daylight. Such facts may just as well be known, because there is a better time coming, and these things are but transitory.
In the old settled parts, peach orchards22 are already bearing; and if there is a moderate rainfall, and the people can get three good crops out of five, such is the richness of the soil, the people will be rich. But to me the western part of the Territory seems like an experiment as yet. There are many places in the same latitude23 farther north utterly24 deserted25; and empty court-houses, schools, and churches stand on the dry prairie as lonesome as Persepolis without her grandeur26.
[300]But now let us go into "The Strip." ("The Strip" is the Cherokee Strip, the last but one opened; the Kickapoo being opened this May.) It has been settled about eighteen months. It is May, 1895. We leave the train, and start across the prairie in a buggy with splendid horses that can be bought for less than forty dollars each. We pass beautiful little ponies27 that you can buy for ten to twenty dollars. On either side we pass large herds28 of cattle and many horses. Few houses are in sight, as most of them are very small and hardly distinguishable from the ground, while some are under ground. Here and there a little log house, made from the "black jacks29" that border the stream, which is often a dry ditch. The rivers, with banks a quarter of a mile apart at flood can be stepped over to-day.
Fifty miles of riding bring us to a county town. All the county towns in "The Strip" were located by the Government, and have large squares, or rather[301] oblongs, in which the county buildings stand. It is the day before the Indians are paid. Here we find every one busy. Streets are being graded, and a fine court-house in process of erection. Stores are doing an immense business, one reaching over one hundred thousand dollars a year; another, larger still, being built. By their sides will be a peanut-stand, a sod store, another partly of wood and partly of canvas, and every conceivable kind of building for living in or trading. And here is a house with every modern convenience, up to a set of china for afternoon teas, and a club already formed for progressive euchre.
INDIANS AT PAWNEE, OKLAHOMA TERRITORY. INDIANS AT PAWNEE, OKLAHOMA TERRITORY.
The Indian is not a terror to the settlers, as in early days; but he exasperates30 him, stalking by to get his money from the Government. He spends it like a child, on anything and everything to which he takes a notion. He lives on canned goods, and feasts for a time, then fasts until the Great Fathers send him more money. On the reservation, gamblers[302] fleece him; but he does not seem to care, for he has a regular income and all the independence of a pauper31.
It seemed very strange to look out of the car window, and see the tepees of the Indians, and on the other side of the car a lady in riding-habit with a gentleman escort—a pair who would have been in their place in Rotten Row.
Now we must turn westward32 for a hundred miles, and in all the long ride pass but one wheatfield that will pay for cutting; and that depends on rain, and must be cut with a header. Dire33 distress34 already stares the settler in the face; and even men, made desperate by hunger in Old Oklahoma, are sending their petitions to Guthrie for food. There are hundreds of families who have nothing but flour and milk, and some who have neither. When a cry goes up for help, it is soon followed by another, saying things are not so bad. This latter cry comes from those who hold property, and who would rather the people starve than that property should decrease.
[303]I saw men who had cut wood, and hauled it sixteen miles, then split it, and carried it twelve miles to market, and after their three days' work the two men had a load for themselves and one dollar and a quarter left. And one man said, "Mine is a case of 'root hog35 or die,'" and so got fifty cents for his load of wood he had brought fourteen miles; while another man returned with his, after vainly offering it for forty cents. In one town I saw a horse,—a poor one, it is true,—but the man could not get another bid after it had reached one dollar and a half.
Of course there are thousands who are better off; but in the case of very many they were at the very last degree of poverty when they went in. Many of our minute-men preached the first Sunday. They were among the men who sat on the cow-catcher of the engine, and made the run for a church-lot and to win souls. They preached that first Sunday in a dust-storm so bad that you could scarcely see the color of your clothes. To those who[304] never saw one, these dust-storms are past belief. Even when the doors and windows are closed, the room seems as if it were in a fog; for the fine particles of dust defy doors and windows. And should a window be left open, you can literally36 use a shovel37 to get the dust off the beds.
You may be riding along, as I was, the hot wind coming in puffs38, the swifts gliding39 over the prairie by your side, the heat rising visibly on the horizon, when in a flash, a dust-storm from the north came tearing along, until you could not see your pony's head at times, drifts six inches deep on the wheat, and your teeth chattering40 with the cold at one P.M., when at eleven A.M. you were nearly exhausted with the heat.
Strange when you ask people whether it is not extremely hot in the Middle West, they say, "Yes; but we always have cool nights." And, as a rule, that is so; but now as I write, July 9, 1895, comes the news of intense heat,—thermometer a hundred and nine in the shade, and ninety-eight[305] at midnight, followed by a storm that shot pebbles41 into the very brickwork of the houses.
Every man who can, has a cyclone42 cellar. Some are fitted up so that you could keep house in them. In one town where I went to speak, the meeting was abandoned on account of a storm which was but moderate; but such is the fear of the twister that nearly all the people were in their pits.
In the Baptist church, where they had a full house the night before, I found one woman and two men; and they were blowing out the lights. The telegrams kept coming, telling of a storm shaking buildings, and travelling forty miles an hour; but it was dissipated before it reached me, and I escaped. Yet I found a man who had lived over a quarter of a century in the West, and had never seen one.
It is a big country. A friend of mine in England wrote me that they feared for me as they read of our fearful cyclones43.[306] I was living near Boston, Mass. I wrote back, saying I felt bad for them in London when the Danube overflowed44. I had to go over and explain it before they saw my joke.
AFTER A STORM AFTER A STORM, GUTHRIE, OKLAHOMA TERRITORY.
Page 306.
The cyclone, however, is no joke. Nevertheless, it performs some queer antics. One cyclone struck a house, and left nothing but the floor and a tin cuspidore. The latter stood by a stove which weighed several hundredweight, and which was smashed to atoms.
In another house a heavy table was torn to pieces, while the piano-cover in the same room was left on the piano. In one house all had gone into the cellar, when they remembered the sleeping baby. A young girl sprang in, and got the baby; and just as she stepped off, the house went, and she floated into the cellar like a piece of thistle-down. A school-teacher was leaving school, when she was thrown to the ground, and every bit of clothing was stripped from her, leaving her without a scratch.
Perhaps the most remarkable45 escape was a few years ago in Kansas City. When a young school-teacher reached home, her mother said, "Why did you not bring your young brother?" She hastened back; and as she reached the room where her brother was, she grasped him around the waist, and jumped out of the window just as the building was struck. She was carried two blocks, and dropped without injury to either of them. These things are hard to believe, but no one will be lost who does not believe them.
But to return to our journey. We had three churches to dedicate in three days, two on one day. And here let me say, a church could be organized every day in the year, and not trespass46 on any one's work. We could see the little building loom8 up on the horizon, appearing twice its size, as things do on the prairie with nothing to contrast them with, for the houses were almost invisible. The place was crowded, so that the wagon-seats were brought in; and a very affecting sight it[308] was to see the communion-wine brought in a ketchup47 bottle. The people were good, but very poor, although nearly all owned horses, for in that country this is no sign of wealth.
After a few hours' drive, we came to our second church. The prairie here was broken up by small ca?ons, interspersed48 with streams, and was quite pretty. A grocery and a blacksmith-shop, the latter opened Tuesday and Thursday only, comprised the village. A small house where the proprietor49 of the store lived, and the church, were all the buildings one could see. The people were very cordial and intelligent. The daughters of mine host were smart, handsome girls, that could do almost everything,—ride a wild broncho, and shoot a rattler's head off with a bullet, and yet were modest, well-dressed, and good-mannered young ladies.
I was taken down stairs cut out of the clay, and covered with carpet, into a room the sides of which were the ca?on. It looked out over the great expanse. The[309] beds were lifted up so as to form walls around the room, and take up less space.
After a bountiful supper, I looked at the church, which stood on a sightly hill. I wondered where the people were coming from, but was told it would be filled. It was on a Thursday night. I looked over the prairie; and in all directions I saw dark spots in motion, that grew larger. I said, "They appear as if rising from the ground."
"Well," said mine host, "most of them are."
By eight o'clock three hundred were there, most of them bringing chairs; by 8.30, there were four hundred; at 9 o'clock, by actual count, five hundred people crowded in and around the door of the church. It was a sight never to be forgotten, to see this great company start off across the prairie in the full moonlight. I spoke50 to some of them, saying, "Why, you were out at the afternoon meeting."—"Yes," said the man, "I should have come if we had to ride a cow all the way[310] from Enid." This was a place thirty miles away. This church was built by the people, one man working for a dollar a week and his dinner, the farmers working his farm for him while he was at the building.
The church had not yet received its chairs, and was seated with boards laid across nail-kegs.
Here our minute-man preaches in houses so small that the chairs had to be put outside, and the people packed so thickly that they touched him. It ought to touch the Christian51 reader to help more. We had fifty miles to ride the next day, into a county town. We found it all alive; for nearly four hundred lawsuits52 were on the docket, mostly for timber stealing.
"Poor fellows," I thought, "Uncle Sam ought to give you the timber for coaxing53 you here."
However, the judge was a fine, well-read man, and let them off easy. Deputy-sheriffs by the score were stalking about,[311] with their deadly revolvers sticking out from under their short coats.
The best hotel was crowded, and I had for that night to sleep in another one. The house was old, and had been taken down and brought here from Kansas and rebuilt. The doors up-stairs once had glass in them; rough boards covered the broken places. One door was made up entirely54 of old sign-boards, which made it appear like so many Chinese characters, such as Pat said he could not read, but thought he could play it if he had his flute55 with him.
I was ushered56 into a room, and requested to put the light out when I was through with it; meaning I was to place it outside, which I did not do. But what a room! The wainscoting did not reach the floor. Small bottles of oil, with feathers in them, looked awfully57 suspicious. There was no washstand or water. The pillow looked like a little bag of shot, and was as dirty as the bed-clothes. The door was fastened with a little wooden[312] button, which hung precariously58 on a small nail.
I took off my coat, and put it on again, and finally lay down on the bed, after placing something between my head and that pillow.
I had to go several blocks in the morning to find a place to wash, so dirty were the towels down-stairs. I was then given a house to myself, which consisted of a single room, eight by ten, or ten by twelve, I forget which. It was originally the church and parsonage. Here the church was organized, and the first wedding took place.
A fine church, the largest and handsomest in the Territory, was next door, and was to be dedicated59 the next day, which would be Sunday. This building had been brought all the way from Kansas, and the very foundation-stones carried with it, and put up in better shape than ever. Three times next day it was crowded, even to the steps outside, many coming twenty miles to attend. One lady came twice who lived[313] six miles away, and said, "Oh, how I wish I could come again to-night! But I have six cows to milk, and it would mean twelve miles to ride there and back, and then six miles to go home; yet I would if I could. Oh! sometimes I think I should die but for God and my little girl."
As the people came in, I said to myself, "Where have I seen these ladies before,—pink and lemon-colored silk dresses, pointed60 buff shoes, ostrich feathers in their enormous hats,—oh! I have it, in the daily hints from Paris."
The men wore collars as ugly and uncomfortable as they could be made, which made them keep their chins up; and right by their sides were women whose hats looked like those we see in boxes outside the stores, your choice for five cents; there were four or five little sunburned children, some of whom were in undress uniform, and their fathers in homespun and blue jeans.
Close by in the ca?ons crouched61 a fugitive[314] from justice. Two men started out to take him, but came home without their guns. Then a brave, cool-headed man of experience went, and slept in the timber where our desperado lay concealed62, thinking to catch him in the morning before the robber awoke; but while he was rubbing his own sleepy eyes the words, sharp as a rifle report, came, "Hold up your hands!" And number three came home minus his shooting-irons.
Oklahoma differs in many ways from other frontiers. You find greater extremes, but you also find a higher type intellectually. The Century and Harper's and the popular magazines sell faster, and more of them, than the Police Gazette.
On the other hand, settled en masse as it has been, the church has not begun to reach the people except in county towns, where, as usual, it is too often, but not always, overdone63. In one case I found a man who was trying to organize with one member; and in another a man actually built a church before a single member[315] of his denomination64 was there, and there were none there when I left. In some cases I found our minute-man an old soldier; and more than once for weeks at a time he had to sleep in his clothes, and keep his rifle by his side.
In some cases the Government had located a county town, and the railway company had chosen another site close by. Then the fight began. The railway at first ignored the Government's site, and ran their trains by; built a station on their own site, and would have no other. Then the people on the Government site tore up the tracks, and incendiarism became so common that the insurance agent came and cancelled all the policies except the church and parsonage where our minute-man stood guard. This was done in several places, and the end is not yet.
Now, to the general reader, everything seems in a hopeless muddle65, and he is glad he is not living there. But remember this. It is better than some older settlements, where men had to give eighty[316] bushels of wheat for a pair of stogy boots, as they did in Ohio, and fight the Indian as well as the wolf from the door, or in Kansas forty years ago, where corn brought five cents a bushel, and men had to go a hundred miles to the mill. In order to show the hopeful side, I will give an illustration.
I was to speak at a meeting in Illinois. My way was through Missouri, where spiritual and civilized66 prosperity has not kept pace with her wealth and opportunities. I was entertained in a mansion67 built sixty years ago. The city, of sixteen thousand inhabitants, could hardly be matched in New England,—many fine streets, shaded with grand old elms; the roads bricked and well graded; the houses beautiful, artistic68, and surrounded with lovely lawns; a college, a ladies' seminary, and many fine schools and churches.
The lady of the house said, "My mother crossed the mountains many times to Washington, to live with her husband, who represented the State there." At[317] last she had to take two carriages and two horses, and it became too hard work, when her husband built the house which is still a beautiful home, with magnificent elms, planted by its original owner, shading it. In that day the rattlesnake glided69 about the doorway70, the Indians roamed everywhere, and the wolves actually licked the frosting off the cakes that were set to cool on the doorstep, while the Indians stole the poor woman's dinner who lived close by. To-day a park adorns71 the front, given by the generous owner to the city; and where the wolves and the Indians roamed, lives the daughter of Governor Duncan, with her husband and family, in one of the finest cities of its size in the world. Nowhere in all this wide world can the advance of civilization during the last fifty years be found on so large a scale as here on the American frontiers.
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warriors
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| 武士，勇士，战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
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tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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stunned
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| adj. 震惊的，惊讶的 动词stun的过去式和过去分词 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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brutal
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| adj.残忍的，野蛮的，不讲理的 | |
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chivalry
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| n.骑士气概，侠义；（男人）对女人彬彬有礼，献殷勤 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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loom
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lizard
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swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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slough
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| v.蜕皮，脱落，抛弃 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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kernels
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| 谷粒( kernel的名词复数 )； 仁； 核； 要点 | |
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second-hand
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ostrich
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groomed
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| v.照料或梳洗（马等）( groom的过去式和过去分词 )；使做好准备；训练；（给动物）擦洗 | |
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ambled
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killing
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incensed
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fortified
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molest
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orchards
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latitude
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utterly
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deserted
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grandeur
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ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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herds
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jacks
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| n.抓子游戏；千斤顶( jack的名词复数 )；（电）插孔；[电子学]插座；放弃 | |
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exasperates
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pauper
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| n.贫民，被救济者，穷人 | |
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westward
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dire
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distress
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hog
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literally
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shovel
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puffs
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| n.吸( puff的名词复数 )；（烟斗或香烟的）一吸；一缕（烟、蒸汽等）；（呼吸或风的）呼v.使喷出( puff的第三人称单数 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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41
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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cyclone
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| n.旋风，龙卷风 | |
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cyclones
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| n.气旋( cyclone的名词复数 )；旋风；飓风；暴风 | |
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overflowed
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| 溢出的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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trespass
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| n./v.侵犯，闯入私人领地 | |
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ketchup
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| n.蕃茄酱，蕃茄沙司 | |
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interspersed
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| adj.[医]散开的；点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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52
lawsuits
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| n.诉讼( lawsuit的名词复数 ) | |
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53
coaxing
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| v.哄，用好话劝说( coax的现在分词 )；巧言骗取；哄劝，劝诱；“锻炼”效应 | |
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54
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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flute
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| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
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ushered
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| v.引，领，陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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awfully
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| adv.可怕地，非常地，极端地 | |
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precariously
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| adv.不安全地；危险地；碰机会地；不稳定地 | |
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dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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crouched
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| v.屈膝，蹲伏( crouch的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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overdone
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| v.做得过分( overdo的过去分词 )；太夸张；把…煮得太久；（工作等）过度 | |
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denomination
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| n.命名，取名，(度量衡、货币等的)单位 | |
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muddle
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| n.困惑，混浊状态；vt.使混乱，使糊涂，使惊呆；vi.胡乱应付，混乱 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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adorns
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| 装饰，佩带( adorn的第三人称单数 ) | |
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