To my surprise it looked like the Strand3 on a busy day, for it was full of marching troops, transport wagons4, hurrying motor cars with staff officers, and double-decked motor busses painted gray, full of Tommies, gay and happy, going to a railhead to enjoy a well-earned leave. One could not but wonder in what part of London these motor busses used to carry their passengers, and think how strange it was to see them now hurrying along a French road within shell fire of the Germans. As I rode along the well-paved route, our trench5 lines could be seen in the nearby fields, and the picturesque6 towers of Mt. St. Eloy were on my left, seen through the nets stretched from tree to tree to hide the traffic from the watchful7 eyes of the German observers.
Riding toward Arras, eight kilometers away, I came up with an English officer riding in the same direction. When I joined him he was at first, as all English officers are, a little loath8 to be joined by a stranger, though the latter wears the same uniform. But gradually he thawed9 and became the likable, courteous10 chap that the English officer nearly always becomes on closer acquaintance. He informed me that one required a pass to enter Arras, but as he had one and was going in to see his commanding officer, he offered to take me in as the medical officer of his battalion. Availing myself of this brotherly offer, I rode with him along the net-guarded road till we came to the outskirts11 of Arras where a sentry12 allowed me to enter with him. We put up our horses at the old French cavalry13 barracks, now occupied by British—not Canadian—troops, and then we started out to search for his C.O.
We came first to what was once the attractive Boulevard Carnot, now "Barbwire Square," as it was nearly filled with this material to keep the soldiers out of it to prevent them from being hit by the German shells which landed there daily, either from the enemy lines only 100 yards away, or from hostile aeroplanes. The Huns had the range of this street to a nicety. As we walked along the street shells bursting a couple of blocks away threw pieces of rock so near our heads that we were glad when we reached the end of it.
We wandered about the streets, deserted14 by nearly all civilians15 except an old man here and there walking about with bowed head, or an old woman long past the days of her beauty being spoiled by the splinters of a shell. Except in a shop where I coaxed16 a young woman to sell me a souvenir spoon, in two hours I saw only one young woman in the streets. She was hurrying along with a parcel under her arm, paying no heed17 to the sharp, cutting explosions of our 18-pounders nearby or to the explosions of the German shells a few blocks away. She looked for all the world like a young housewife returning home after a morning's shopping.
The houses that lined the streets were nearly all closed. All of them showed marks of shell fire, some being completely demolished18, others having only the rear walls standing19 with parts of the sides pointing outward like arms stretching forth20 for their loved ones. The immense station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord was a mass of ruins. The stone Cathedral was represented by the lower part of the tower, and a brass21 bell lying on the pavement, the bell that had in times of peace so often called the faithful to prayer. The Avenue Pasteur—France is a country that recognizes its scientists—showed few complete buildings, and ironically one noted22 the ruin that German shells had made of the Avenue Strassbourg.
Here and there a stone barricade23 had been built, loopholes being left for machine-guns, to prevent a possible German advance. Notices told all to keep near the walls and away from the open streets to avoid shell fire. Estaminets, cafés, épiceries, and restaurants were all damaged and closed. Joyful24 nights and gay days were things of the past in this shadow of a prosperous city. à la mode Parisienne, the sign over a ladies' suit store, was all that remained of the center of fashion of the women of Arras.
Altogether Arras, which had been a well-built and modern city of 25,000 people, had become a deserted village. What shutters25 remained were closed and riddled26 with shrapnel, and the place had a sad, forbidding air, as if the inhabitants had flown because of some horrible plague. It reminded one of the ruins of Pompeii. In one square stood the pedestal only of a monument erected27, it said, in 1910, "in honor of the sons of Arras who had died for their native land." When the monument is rebuilt the dead heroes in whose honor it was erected will have been joined by many comrades.
I passed out of the walls, depressed28 by the unhappy wreck29 of a once prosperous city destroyed by the highly refined methods of warfare30 developed by twentieth century German kultur.
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1
battalion
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n.营;部队;大队(的人) | |
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2
detour
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n.绕行的路,迂回路;v.迂回,绕道 | |
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3
strand
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vt.使(船)搁浅,使(某人)困于(某地) | |
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4
wagons
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n.四轮的运货马车( wagon的名词复数 );铁路货车;小手推车 | |
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5
trench
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n./v.(挖)沟,(挖)战壕 | |
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6
picturesque
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adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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7
watchful
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adj.注意的,警惕的 | |
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loath
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adj.不愿意的;勉强的 | |
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9
thawed
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解冻 | |
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10
courteous
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adj.彬彬有礼的,客气的 | |
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11
outskirts
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n.郊外,郊区 | |
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12
sentry
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n.哨兵,警卫 | |
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13
cavalry
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n.骑兵;轻装甲部队 | |
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14
deserted
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adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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15
civilians
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平民,百姓( civilian的名词复数 ); 老百姓 | |
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16
coaxed
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v.哄,用好话劝说( coax的过去式和过去分词 );巧言骗取;哄劝,劝诱 | |
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17
heed
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v.注意,留意;n.注意,留心 | |
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18
demolished
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v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 );推翻;拆毁(尤指大建筑物);吃光 | |
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19
standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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20
forth
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adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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21
brass
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n.黄铜;黄铜器,铜管乐器 | |
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22
noted
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adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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23
barricade
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n.路障,栅栏,障碍;vt.设路障挡住 | |
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24
joyful
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adj.欢乐的,令人欢欣的 | |
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25
shutters
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百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 ); (照相机的)快门 | |
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26
riddled
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adj.布满的;充斥的;泛滥的v.解谜,出谜题(riddle的过去分词形式) | |
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27
ERECTED
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adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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28
depressed
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adj.沮丧的,抑郁的,不景气的,萧条的 | |
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29
wreck
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n.失事,遇难;沉船;vt.(船等)失事,遇难 | |
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30
warfare
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n.战争(状态);斗争;冲突 | |
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