Not till the expedition of Legaspi and the Augustine monks5 visited the shores of the Visayan islands were the natives subjugated6, and the finding of the Santo Ni?o (Holy Child) brought this about. Since then the monks and friars, playing on the superstition7 of the islanders, have managed to control them and to mold them to their purposes. In 1568 a permanent establishment was made at Cebu by the bestowal9 of munitions10, troops, and arms, brought by the galleons11 of Don Juan de Salcedo. The conquest of the northern provinces began soon after the flotilla of Legaspi came to anchor in Manila Bay.
The idea that Manila or the island of Luzon comprises most of our possessions in the East is one that I have found quite prevalent throughout America. The broken blue line of the coast of Luzon reaches away in a dim contour to the northward12 for two hundred miles, until the chain of the Zambales Mountains breaks into the flying, wave-lashed islands standing13 out against the trackless sea. Southern Luzon, the country of Batangas, and the Camarines, extends a hundred miles south of Manila Bay. [52]
In the far north are the rich provinces of Cagayan, Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur, Abra, Benguet, and Nueva Viscaya. The land at the sea level produces hemp14, tobacco, rice, and cocoanuts; the heavily-timbered mountain slopes contain rich woods, cedar15, mahogany, molave, ebony, and ipil. A wonderful river rushes through the mountain ca?ons, and the famous valley of the Cagayan is formed—the garden of Eden of the Philippines. The peaks of the Zambales are so high that frost will sometimes gather at the tops, while in the upper forests even the flora16 of the temperate17 zone is reproduced. Negritos, the primeval savages18, run wild in the great wilderness20, while cannibals, head-hunters, and other barbaric peoples live but a short distance from the shore.
The islands to the south of Luzon reach in a long chain toward Borneo, a distance of six hundred miles. During a journey to the southern islands a continuous procession of majestic21 mountains moves by like a panorama—first the misty22 peaks of the Mindoro coast; and then the wooded group of islands in the Romblon Archipelago, that [53]rises abruptly23 out of the blue sea. Hundreds of smaller islands, like bouquets24, dot the waters off Panay, while the bare ridges25 of Cebu of the Plutonic peaks of Negros loom26 up far beyond. Passing the triple range of Mindanao, the scattered27 islands of the Jolo Archipelago, the Tapul and the Tawi-Tawi groups mark the extreme southern limits of the Philippines.
In nearly all these islands the interior is taken up by various tribes of savages, sixty or seventy different tribes in all, speaking as many different dialects. There are the Igorrotes of the north, who make it their religion, when the fire-tree blooms, to go out on a still hunt after human heads. When one of their tribe dies, the number of fingers that he holds up as he breathes his last expresses the number of heads which his survivors28 must secure. An Igorrote suitor, too, must pay the price, if he would have his bride, in human heads. The head of his best friend or of his deadliest enemy is equally acceptable; and if his own pate29 fall in the attempt, he would not be alone among those who have “lost their heads” because of a fair woman. [54]
Although the island of Luzon was settled later than the southern islands, civilization has been more widely disseminated30 in the north. A railway line connects Manila with Dagupan and the other cities of the distant provinces. Aparri, on the Rio Grande, near its mouth, is the commercial port of Cagayan. The country around is rich in live stock, and is partly under cultivation31. During the rainy season, however, the pontoon bridges over the Rio Grande are swept away; the roads become impassable. The raging torrent32 of the river threatens the inland navigation, while the monsoons33 on the China Sea make transportation very difficult.
The provinces of North and South Ilocos bristle34 with dense35 forests, where not only savages, but deer, wild hogs36, and jungle-fowl abound37, and where the white man’s foot has never been. The natives bring the forest products, pitch, rattan38, and the wild honey, to the coast towns, where they can exchange their goods for rice. While in the mountainous regions of the northern part, barbarians39 too timid to approach the coast are found, most of the pagan natives are of a mixed [55]type. The primitive40 Negritos, living in these parts, as those also living on the island of Negros and in Mindanao, are of unknown origin—unless they are allied41 with similar types of pigmies, such as the Sakais of the Malay Peninsula, or the Mincopies of the Andaman Islands in the Indian Ocean. Some anthropologists would even associate them with the black dwarfs42 in the interior of Africa. These savages live a nomadic43 life, and seldom come down near the villages. But the mixed tribes, the Negrito-Malay, or the Malay-Japanese, are bolder and more enterprising. The presence of the Japanese and Chinese pirates in this country in the early days has been the cause of many of the eccentric types whose origin, entirely44 independent from the origin of the Negritos, was Malayan. Here the Ilocanes, or the natives of the better class, the Christians45 of these provinces, although of Malay origin, belong to a more cultured class of Malay ancestry46. They are amenable47 to Christian1 influences, and their manners are agreeable and pleasing. They cultivate abundant quantities of sugar, cotton, indigo48, rice, and tobacco, and the women weave the famous Ilocano [56]blankets that are sold at such a premium49 in Manila. Vigan, the capital of South Ilocos, has the finest public buildings and the best-kept streets of any of the provincial50 cities.
Another tribe of people, the Zambales, are to be found toward the center of Luzon. Few Igorrotes, Ilocanes, and Negritos live in the province of Zambales or Pangasinan. Pampanga Province also has its own tribe and a different dialect. Tagalog is spoken around Manila, in Laguna Province, in Batangas, and the Camarines; Visayan is the language of the southern islands.
A monotonous51 sameness is the characteristic of most of the small Filipino towns. In seeing one you have seen all; you wonder what good can come out of such a Nazareth, and there are very few of the provincial capitals, indeed, that merit a description. Rambling52 official buildings, made of white concrete and roofed with nipa or with corrugated53 iron; a ragged54 plaza55, with the church and convent, and the long streets lined with native houses; pigs with heads like coal-scuttles; chickens and yellow dogs and naked brats56, scabby and peanut-shaped,—such [57]are the first and last impressions of the Filipino town.
We reached Cebu during the rainy season, and it was a little city of muddy streets and tiled roofs. As the transport came to anchor in the harbor, Filipino boys came out in long canoes, and dived for pennies till the last you saw of them was the white soles of their bare feet. And in another boat two little girls were dancing, while the boys went through the manual of arms. A number of tramp steamers, barkentines, and the big Hong Kong boat were lying in the harbor, while the coasting steamers of the Chinese merchants and the smaller hemp-boats lined the docks. As this was our first port in the Visayan group, the difference between the natives here and those of the Far North was very noticeable. There, the volcanic57, wiry Tagalog, or the athletic58 Igorrote savage19; here, the easy-going, happy Visayan, carabao-like in his movements, with a large head, enormous mouth and feet.
Along the water front a line of low white buildings ran,—the wholesale59 houses of the English, Chinese, Spanish, and American commercial firms. [58]The street was full of carabao carts, yoked60 to their uncomfortable cattle. Agents and merchants, dressed in white, were hurrying to and fro with manifests. Around the corner was a long street blocked with merchandise, and shaded with the awnings61 of the Chinese stores. There was a little barber-shop in a kiosko, where an idle native, crossing his legs and tilting62 back his chair, abandoned himself to the spirit of a big guitar. The avenue that branched off here would be thronged63 with shoppers during the busy hours. Here were the retail64 stores of every description—“The Nineteenth-century Bazaar,” the stock of which was every bit as modern as its name—clothing-stores, tailor-shops, restaurants, jewelry-stores, and curio bazaars65.
Numerous plazas66 were surrounded by old Spanish buildings and hotels. The public gardens—if the acre of dried palms and withered67 grass may so be called—were situated68 near the water front, and had a band stand for the use of the musicians on fiesta days. The racetrack was adjacent to the gardens, and the public buildings faced these reservations. The magnificent old [59]churches, with their picturesque69 bell towers; the white convent walls, with niches70 for the statuettes of saints; the colleges and convents,—give to the provincial capital an air of dignity.
The boarding-house, kept by a crusty but good-hearted Englishman, stood opposite the row of porches roofed with heavy tiles, that made Calle Colon71 a colonnade72. Across the street was a window in the wall, where the brown-eyed Lucretia used to sell ginger-ale and sarsaparilla to the soldiers. With her waving pompadour, her olive cheeks, and sultry eyes, Lucretia was the belle73 of all the town. There wasn’t a soldier in the whole command who wouldn’t have laid down his life for her. And in this land where nothing seemed to be worth while, Lucretia, with her pretty manners and her gentle ways, had a good influence upon the tawny74 musketeers who dropped in to play a game of dominos or drink a glass of soda75 with her; and she treated all of them alike.
A monkey chattered76 on the balcony, sliding up and down the bamboo-pole, or reaching for pieces of bananas which the boarders passed him from the dinner-table. “Have you chowed yet?” asked [60]a grating voice, which, on a negative reply, ordered a place to be made ready for me at the table. Barefooted muchachos placed the thumb-marked dishes on the dirty table-cloth. I might add that a napkin had been spread to cover the spot where the tomato catsup had been spilled, and that the chicken-soup, in which a slice of bread was soaked, slopped over the untidy thumb that carried it. But I omitted this course, as the red ants floating on the surface of the broth77 rendered the dish a questionable78 delicacy79. The boarders had adjourned80 to the parlor81, and were busy reading “Diamond Dick,” “Nick Carter,” and the other five and ten cent favorites. A heavy rain had set in, as I drew my chair up to the light and tried to lose myself in the adventures of the boy detective.
But the mosquitoes of Cebu! The rainy season had produced them by the wholesale, and full-blooded ones at that. These were the strange bed-fellows that made misery82 that night, as they discovered openings in the mosquito-bar that, I believe, they actually made themselves! The parlor (where the bed was situated) was a very interesting [61]room. There was a rickety walnut83 cabinet containing an assortment84 of cobwebby Venus’s fingers, which remind you of the mantel that you fit over the gas jet; seashells that had been washed up, appropriately branded “Souvenir of Cebu;” tortoise-shell curios from Nagasaki, and an album of pictures from Japan. The floor was polished every morning by the house-boys, and the furniture arranged in the most formal manner, vis-á-vis.
The se?orita Rosario, the sister-in-law of the proprietor85, came in to entertain me presently, dressed in a bodice of blue pi?a, with the wide sleeves newly starched86 and ironed, and with her hair unbound. She sat down opposite me in a rocking-chair, shook off her slippers87 on the floor, and curling her toes around the rung, rocked violently back and forth88. She punctuated89 her remarks by frequent clucks, which, I suppose, were meant to be coquettish. Her music-teacher was expected presently; so while I wrote a letter on her escritorio, the se?orita smoked a cigarette upon the balcony. The maestro came at last; a little, pock-marked fellow, dapper, and neatly90 [62]dressed, his fingers stained with nicotine91 from cigarettes. Together they took places at the small piano, and I could see by their exchange of glances that the music-lesson was an incidental feature of the game. They sang together from a Spanish opera the song of Pepin, the great braggadocio92, of whom ’t is said, when he goes walking in the streets, “the girls assemble just to see him pass.”
“Cuando me lanzo a calle
Con8 el futsaque y el cla,
Todas las ni?as se asoman
Solo por ver me pasar:
Unas a otras se dicen
Que chico mas resa lao!
De la sal que va tirando
Voy a coher un punao.”
When the music-teacher had departed, the se?orita leaned out of the balcony, watching the crowd of beggars in the street below. Of all the beggars of the Orient, those of Cebu are the most clinging and persistent93 and repulsive94. Covered with filthy95 rags and scabs, with emaciated96 bodies and pinched faces, they are allowed to come into the city every week and beg for alms. Their whining97, “Da mi dinero, se?or, mucho pobre me” [63](“Give me some money, sir, for I am very poor”), sounds like a last wail98 from the lower world.
It was at Iloilo that we took a local excursion steamer across to the pueblo99 of Salai, in Negros. It was a holiday excursion, and the boat was packed with natives out for fun. There was a peddler with a stock of lemon soda-water, sarsaparilla, sticks of boiled rice, cakes, and cigarettes. A game of monte was immediately started on the deck, the Filipinos squatting100 anxiously around the dealer101, wagering102 their suca ducos (pennies) or their silver pieces on the turn of certain cards. It was a perfectly103 good-natured game, rendered absurd by the concentric circles of bare feet surrounding it. There seemed to be a personality about those feet; there were the sleek104 extremities105 of some more prosperous councilman or insurrecto general; there were the horny feet of the old women, slim and bony, or a pair of great toes quizzically turned in; and there were flat feet, speckled, brown, or yellow, like a starfish cast up on the sand. They seemed to watch the game with interest, and to note every move the dealer made, smiling or frowning as they won or lost. There [64]was a tramway at Salay, drawn106 by a bull, and driven by a fellow whose chief object seemed to be to linger with the se?orita at the terminus. The town was hotter than the desert of Sahara, and as sandy; there was little prospect107 o￡ relief save in the distant mountains rising to the clouds in the blue distance.
Returning to our caravansary at Iloilo, we discovered that our beds had been assigned to others; there was nothing left to do but take possession of the first unoccupied beds that we saw. One of our party evidently got into the “Spaniard’s” bed, the customary resting-place of the proprietor, for presently we were awakened108 by the anxious cries of the muchachos, “Se?or, se?or, el Espa?ol viene!” (Sir, the Spaniard comes!) But he was not to be put out by any Spaniard, and expressed his sentiments by rolling over and emitting a loud snore. The Spaniard, easily excited, on his entrance flew into an awful rage, while the usurper109 calmly snored, and the muchachos peeked110 in through the door at peril111 of their lives.
Nothing especially of interest is to be found at Iloilo,—only a long avenue containing Spanish, [65]native, and Chinese stores; a tiny plaza, where the city band played and the people promenaded112 hand in hand; a harbor flecked with white, triangular113 sails of native velas; and the river, where the coasting boats and tugs114 are lying at the docks. Neat cattle take the place of carabaos here to a great extent. There is the usual stone fort that seems to belong to some scene of a comic opera. America was represented here by a Young Men’s Christian Association, a clubhouse, and a presidente. The troops then stationed in the town added a certain tone of liveliness.
It was a week of carol-singing in the streets, of comedies performed by strolling bands of children, masses, and concerts in the plaza. On Christmas afternoon we went out to the track to see the bicycle races, which at that time were a fad115 among the Filipinos. The little band played in the grand-stand, and the people cheered the racers as they came laboriously116 around the turn. The meet was engineered by some American, but, from a standpoint of close finishes, left much to be desired. The market-place on Christmas eve was lighted by a thousand lanterns, and the little people [66]wandered among the booths, smoking their cigarettes and eating peanuts. Until early morning the incessant117 shuffling118 in the streets kept up, for every one had gone to midnight mass. Throughout the town the strumming of guitars, the voices of children, and the blare of the brass119 band was heard, and the next morning Jack-pudding danced on the corner to the infinite amusement of the crowd. As for our own celebration, that was held in the back room of a local restaurant, the Christmas dinner consisting of canned turkey and canned cranberry-sauce, canned vegetables, and ice-cream made of condensed milk.
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1
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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slew
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| v.（使）旋转；n.大量，许多 | |
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treacherously
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| 背信弃义地； 背叛地； 靠不住地； 危险地 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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subjugated
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| v.征服，降伏( subjugate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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con
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| n.反对的观点，反对者，反对票，肺病；vt.精读，学习，默记；adv.反对地，从反面；adj.欺诈的 | |
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bestowal
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| 赠与，给与； 贮存 | |
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munitions
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| n.军火，弹药；v.供应…军需品 | |
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galleons
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| n.大型帆船( galleon的名词复数 ) | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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flora
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| n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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temperate
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| adj.温和的，温带的，自我克制的，不过分的 | |
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savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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bouquets
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| n.花束( bouquet的名词复数 )；（酒的）芳香 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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loom
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| n.织布机，织机；v.隐现，(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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survivors
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| 幸存者，残存者，生还者( survivor的名词复数 ) | |
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pate
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| n.头顶；光顶 | |
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disseminated
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| 散布，传播( disseminate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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monsoons
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| n.（南亚、尤指印度洋的）季风( monsoon的名词复数 )；（与季风相伴的）雨季；（南亚地区的）雨季 | |
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bristle
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| v.（毛发）直立，气势汹汹，发怒；n.硬毛发 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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hogs
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| n.（尤指喂肥供食用的）猪( hog的名词复数 )；（供食用的）阉公猪；彻底地做某事；自私的或贪婪的人 | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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rattan
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| n.藤条，藤杖 | |
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39
barbarians
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| n.野蛮人( barbarian的名词复数 )；外国人；粗野的人；无教养的人 | |
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40
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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allied
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| adj.协约国的；同盟国的 | |
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42
dwarfs
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| n.侏儒，矮子（dwarf的复数形式）vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的第三人称单数形式） | |
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43
nomadic
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| adj.流浪的；游牧的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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45
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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46
ancestry
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| n.祖先，家世 | |
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47
amenable
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| adj.经得起检验的；顺从的；对负有义务的 | |
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indigo
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| n.靛青，靛蓝 | |
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49
premium
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| n.加付款；赠品；adj.高级的；售价高的 | |
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50
provincial
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| adj.省的，地方的；n．外省人，乡下人 | |
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51
monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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52
rambling
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| adj.[建]凌乱的，杂乱的 | |
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53
corrugated
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| adj.波纹的；缩成皱纹的；波纹面的；波纹状的v.（使某物）起皱褶(corrugate的过去式和过去分词) | |
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54
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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55
plaza
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| n.广场，市场 | |
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brats
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| n.调皮捣蛋的孩子( brat的名词复数 ) | |
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57
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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athletic
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| adj.擅长运动的，强健的；活跃的，体格健壮的 | |
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wholesale
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| n.批发；adv.以批发方式；vt.批发，成批出售 | |
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yoked
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| 结合（yoke的过去式形式） | |
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awnings
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| 篷帐布 | |
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tilting
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| 倾斜，倾卸 | |
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63
thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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retail
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| v./n.零售；adv.以零售价格 | |
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bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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plazas
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| n.（尤指西班牙语城镇的）露天广场( plaza的名词复数 )；购物中心 | |
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67
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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68
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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niches
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| 壁龛( niche的名词复数 )； 合适的位置[工作等]； （产品的）商机； 生态位（一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位） | |
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colon
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| n.冒号，结肠，直肠 | |
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colonnade
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| n.柱廊 | |
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belle
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| n.靓女 | |
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tawny
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| adj.茶色的，黄褐色的；n.黄褐色 | |
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soda
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| n.苏打水；汽水 | |
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chattered
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| （人）喋喋不休( chatter的过去式 )； 唠叨； （牙齿）打战； （机器）震颤 | |
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broth
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| n.原(汁)汤(鱼汤、肉汤、菜汤等) | |
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questionable
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| adj.可疑的，有问题的 | |
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delicacy
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| n.精致，细微，微妙，精良；美味，佳肴 | |
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adjourned
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| （使）休会， （使）休庭( adjourn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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walnut
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| n.胡桃，胡桃木，胡桃色，茶色 | |
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assortment
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| n.分类，各色俱备之物，聚集 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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86
starched
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| adj.浆硬的，硬挺的，拘泥刻板的v.把（衣服、床单等）浆一浆( starch的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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slippers
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| n. 拖鞋 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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punctuated
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| v.（在文字中）加标点符号，加标点( punctuate的过去式和过去分词 )；不时打断某事物 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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nicotine
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| n.(化)尼古丁，烟碱 | |
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braggadocio
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| n.吹牛大王 | |
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persistent
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| adj.坚持不懈的，执意的；持续的 | |
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repulsive
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| adj.排斥的，使人反感的 | |
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filthy
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| adj.卑劣的；恶劣的，肮脏的 | |
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emaciated
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| adj.衰弱的，消瘦的 | |
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whining
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| n. 抱怨，牢骚 v. 哭诉，发牢骚 | |
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wail
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| vt./vi.大声哀号，恸哭；呼啸，尖啸 | |
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pueblo
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| n.（美国西南部或墨西哥等）印第安人的村庄 | |
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squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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dealer
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| n.商人，贩子 | |
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102
wagering
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| v.在（某物）上赌钱，打赌( wager的现在分词 )；保证，担保 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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104
sleek
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| adj.光滑的，井然有序的；v.使光滑，梳拢 | |
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extremities
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| n.端点( extremity的名词复数 )；尽头；手和足；极窘迫的境地 | |
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106
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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107
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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108
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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109
usurper
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| n. 篡夺者, 僭取者 | |
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110
peeked
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| v.很快地看( peek的过去式和过去分词 )；偷看；窥视；微露出 | |
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111
peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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112
promenaded
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| v.兜风( promenade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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113
triangular
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| adj.三角（形）的，三者间的 | |
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114
tugs
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| n.猛拉( tug的名词复数 )；猛拖；拖船v.用力拉，使劲拉，猛扯( tug的第三人称单数 ) | |
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115
fad
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| n.时尚；一时流行的狂热；一时的爱好 | |
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116
laboriously
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| adv.艰苦地；费力地；辛勤地；（文体等）佶屈聱牙地 | |
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117
incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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118
shuffling
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| adj. 慢慢移动的, 滑移的 动词shuffle的现在分词形式 | |
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119
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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