While you are in a land of starlight, frost, and sleighbells, here the cool wind brushes through the palms and the blue sea sparkles in the sun. “In every Christian1 kind of place” it is the time of Christmas bells and Christmas masses. Even at the Aloran convent—about the last outpost of civilization (only a little way beyond live the wild mountain folk—sun-worshipers and the Mohammedans) the padre has prepared a treat of nuts and raisins2 for the boys and girls—somewhat of a Christmas cheer even so far across the sea. They have been practicing their Christmas songs, Ave Maria and the “Oratorio,” which they will sing around the streets on Christmas eve. The schoolboys have received their presents—dictionaries, sugared crackers3, and perfumed soap—and now that their vacation has begun, their little brown heads can be seen bobbing up and down in the blue sea. Their Christmas-tree will be the royal palm; and nipa boughs4 their mistletoe. [151]
Last Christmas in the provinces I spent in Iloilo at a hostel5 kept by a barefooted Spanish landlady6, slovenly7 in a loose morning-gown and with disheveled hair, who stored the eggs in her own bedroom and presided over the untidy staff of house-boys. As she usually slept late, we breakfasted without eggs, being limited to chocolate and cakes. The only option was a glass of lukewarm coffee thinned to rather sickening proportions with condensed milk. Dinner, however, was a more elaborate affair, consisting of a dozen courses, which began with soup and ended with bananas or the customary cheese and guava. The several meat and chicken courses, the “balenciona”—boiled rice mixed with chicken giblets and red peppers—and the bread, baked hard and eaten without butter, was washed down with a generous glass of tinto wine. A pile of rather moist plates stood in front of you, and as you finished one course an untidy thumb removed the topmost plate, thus gradually diminishing the pile.
The dining-room was very interesting. A pretentious8 mirror in a tarnished9 gilt10 frame was the piece de resistance. The faded chromos of the [152]royal family, the Saints, and the Enfanta were relieved by the brilliant lithographs11 presenting brewers’ advertisements. A majestic12 chandelier, considerably13 fly-specked, but elaborately ornamented14 with glass prisms, dropped from the frescoed15 ceiling, and a cabinet containing miscellaneous seashells, family photographs, and starfish occupied one corner of the room.
There was a Christmas eve reception at the home of the “Dramatic Club,” where the refreshments16 of cigars and anisette and bock beer were distributed with liberal hand. The Filipino always does things lavishly17. The evening was devoted18 to band concerts—the municipal band in the pavilion rendering19 the Mexican waltzes, “Over the Waves,” “The Dove,” and other favorites, while the “upper ten” paraded in the moonlight under the mimosa-trees—serenades under the Spanish balconies, and carol-singing to the strumming of guitars. The houses were illumined with square tissue paper lanterns of soft colors. The public market was a fairyland of light. The girls at the tobacco booths offered a special cigarette tied with blue ribbon as a souvenir of the December holidays. [153]A mass at midnight was conducted in the venerable church. As the big bronze bells up in the belfry tolled20 the hour the auditorium21 was filled with worshipers—women in flapping slippers22 and black veils; girls smelling of cheap perfumery and cocoanut-oil, in their stiff gauze dresses with the butterfly sleeves; barefooted boys and young men redolent of cigarettes and musk23. A burst of music from the organ in the loft24 commenced the services, which were concluded with the passing of the Host and a selection by the band. The priest on this occasion wore his gold-embroidered chasuble; the acolytes25, red surplices and lace.
The streets next morning—Christmas-day—were thronged26 with merry-makers. Strangers from the mountain tribes, wild, hungry-looking creatures, had strayed into town, not only for the excitement of the cockpit, but to do their trading and receive their share of alms, which are distributed by all good Catholics at this season of the year.
Here on the corner was a great wag in an ass’s head, accomplishing a clumsy dance for the amusement of the crowd. Around the cockpit chaos27 [154]was the order of the day. The eager fighting-cocks, in expectation of the combat, straining at their tethers, published to the world their lusty challenges. The “talent,” with delicious thrills, were hefting favorite champions, and hastening’ to register their wagers28 with the bank.
The cock-fights lasted the entire week; at the end of that time the erratic29 “wheel of fortune” had involved in ruin many an enthusiast30 who had unfortunately played too heavily the losing bird.
A strolling troop of actors came to visit us that night. They carried their own scenery and wardrobe with them, and the children who were to present the comedy were dressed already for the first act. As they filed in, followed by a mob of ragamuffins who had seen the show a dozen times or more without apparent diminution31 of enjoyment32, the stage manager arranged the scenery and green-room, which consisted of a folding screen. The orchestra, with bamboo flutes34, guitars, and mandolins, took places on a bench, where they began the overture35, beating the measure with bare feet and with as much delight as though they were about to witness the performance for the first time. [155]The proprietor36 informed us that the entertainment was to be a comedy of old Toledo. It was somewhat of a Cyrano de Bergerac affair; one of the principals, concealed37 behind the “leading man,” using his own arms for gestures, sang his representative love for the se?orita in the Spanish dancer’s costume. The castanet dance was repeatedly encored, especially by those familiar with the program, who desired that we appreciate it to its full extent. The actors in this dance were dressed as Spanish buccaneers are popularly supposed to dress, in purple breeches buttoned at the knee, red sashes, and gold lace....
Last night at our own church three paper lanterns, shaped like stars and representing the “three wise men,” at the climax38 of the mass were worked on wires so that they floated overhead along the auditorium, and finally came to rest above the altar, which had been transformed into a manger, the more realistic on account of the pigs, ducks, and chickens manufactured out of paper that had been disposed around.
To-day three men in red are traveling from house to house with candles followed by an attendant [156]with a bell, ringing away the evil spirits for a year. The councilmen in snowy blouses and blue pantaloons, with their official canes39, are making their official calls, and Padre Pedro in his pony40 cart has been around to visit his parishioners. The band, equipped with brand new uniforms and instruments, is playing underneath41 the convent balcony. Their duties during the festivities are strenuous42; for they must serenade the residence of every magnate in the town, receiving contributions of pesetas, cigarettes, and gin.
This afternoon we made our round of calls, for every family keeps open house. A number of matinée balls were in session, where the natives danced “clack-clack” around the floor to the monotonous43 drone of home-made instruments. Our friends all wished us a “Ma-ayon Pascua” or “Feliz Pascua,” for which “Merry Christmas” they expected some remembrance of the day. Our efforts were rewarded by innumerable gifts of cigarettes and many offers of tanduay and gin. At one place we experimented with a piece of “bud-bud,” which is (as its name implies) a sweet-meat made of rice paste mixed with sugar. The hams with sugar frosting, and the cakes flavored [157]with native limes, and cut in the shape of the “Ensanguined Heart,” were more acceptable. At one house we received a cake made in the image of a lamb, with sugar ringlets representing fleece. At our departure, “many thanks, sir, for the visit,” and a final attempt to get rid of another cigarette. It is in bad taste to refuse. A Filipino host would feel offended at your not accepting what he offered. He would feel as though discrimination were implied.
At night after the cock-fight one droll45 fellow brought around a miniature marionette46 theater, of which he was the proud proprietor. While his assistant blew a bamboo flute33 behind the scenes, the puppets danced fandangoes and played football in a very lifelike manner. Seated on an empty cracker-box in front, surrounded by the ragged47 picaninnies, sat Dolores, with her sparkling eyes, lips parted, and her black hair hanging loose,—oblivious to everything except the marionettes.
The star attraction was preceded by applause. The number was announced by those familiar with the exhibition as a “Moro combat,” and as the assistant struck a harrowing obligato on an old oil-can, the Moros appeared with fighting campalons [158]and barbarous-looking shields. The crowd expressed its approbation48 in wild howls. The first two rounds were rather tame. “Afraid! Afraid!” exclaimed the crowd, but presently the combatants began to warm up to their work and to make frantic49 lunges at each other at the vital spot. This was the time of breathless and instinctive50 pressing forward from the back rows. Somebody cried out, “Cebu!” or “Down in front!” and then again, “Patai!” which means “dead.” One of the warriors51 at this cue flopped52 supine on the stage, and the suppressed excitement broke. The victor, not content with mere53 manslaughter, plied44 his sword so energetically as quickly to reduce his victim to a state of hash. At this point his Satanic majesty54, the curtain manager, saw fit to intervene, and with a long spear he successfully probed the limp remains55, completing the assassination56. I had not known until then what a young barbarian57 Dolores was.
The last attraction of our Christmas week was a genuine Mystery play, the Virgin58 Mary being represented by a girl in soiled white stockings and a confirmation59 dress. The Christ Child was a Spanish doll in a glass case. There were the three [159]wise men—one in a long beard and a pink mask, and the others in gold braid and knickerbockers—more like dandies than philosophers. “Joseph” was splendid, with a shepherd’s crook60 and a sombrero. Adoration61 before the manger was the theme that was developed in a series of ballets danced by the children to a tambourine62 and castanet accompaniment. At the conclusion of the play, the little actors in their starry63 costumes, Joseph and the Virgin (carrying the Babe), the three philosophers, and the musicians and the army of admiring followers64, filed out into the moonlight, and as the sweet music of the “Shepherds’ Song” diminished gradually, they disappeared within a shadowy grove65 of palms.
A Christmas Feast.
When Se?or Pedro gave his Christmas feast, he went about it in the orthodox way. That is, he began at midnight Christmas eve. The Christmas pig we were to have had, however, disappointed us—and thereby66 hangs a tale.
Came Se?or Pedro early in the morning of the twenty-fourth, and “In the mountains,” Se?or Pedro said, “runs a fat pig.” Usa ca babui uga [160]dacu! A regular feast of a pig running at large near the macao woods on the slope beyond Mercario’s hemp-fields!
Nothing would do but that I buckle67 on my Colt’s—a weapon that I had done much destruction with among the lesser68 anthropoids in the vicinity. Then we set out radiantly for the hills, with Se?or Pedro leading and a municipal policeman with us to take home the pig. We soon arrived at the pig’s stamping grounds. We had not long to wait. There was a snapping of the underbrush, and “Mr. Babui” appeared upon the scene. His great plank69 side and sagging70 belly71 was as fair a mark as any sportsman could have wished. His greedy little eyes were fixed72 upon the ground where he was rooting for his Christmas dinner.
Bang! The bullet from the army Colt’s sped true. Our pig, flat on his back, was squealing73 desperately74, and his feet were pawing the air as last as though he had been run by clockwork and had been suddenly released from contact with the ground. Then the municipal policeman went to pick him up. But lo, a miracle! Our Christmas pig, inspired by supersusine terror on the approach of the dire75 representative of law, regained76 his [161]legs, and before we could recover from our astonishment77, had scudded78 away with an expiring squeak79 like that emitted from a musical balloon on its collapse80. We never found the pig. He was just mean enough to die in privacy.
But there was to be some compensation. What, though our Christmas dinner had escaped? I managed to bring down a monkey that for some time had been chattering81 and scolding at us from a tree, and with this substitute—a delicacy82 rare to native palates—marched triumphantly83 back to the town.
Exactly at midnight the se?ores took their seats around the board. The orchestra was stationed in an elevated alcove84 in the next room. On the benches sat the women, from the dainty Juliana in her pink cotton hosiery and white kid slippers to the old witch Paola, the town scold. We knives or forks. Heaping platefuls of rice were served with the stewed85 meat—cut in small pieces that “just fit the hand,” and cooked with vegetables. At my request the monkey had been roasted whole. “All la same bata” (baby) cried my host, and sure, I never felt more like a cannibal [162]in all my life. I shuddered86 later when, the ladies at the table, Juliana gnawed87 the thigh-bone of the little beast with relish88.
Se?or Pedro kept the orchestra supplied with gin, with the result that what they lacked in accuracy they made up for in enthusiasm. In the dim room, lighted only by the smoky “kinkes,” we could see the hungry eyes of those awaiting the third table—the retainers and the poor relations. On the boards below was spread a banquet of rice and tuba for the multitude.
The party broke up with a dance, and as the pointers of the Southern Cross faded from the pale sky, the happy merrymakers filed off to their beds. They had so little in this far-off corner of the world, and yet they were content. Had not the stars looked down upon them through the tropic night? Had not the blue sea broken in phosphorescent ridges89 at their feet? And didn’t they have the Holy Virgin on the walls to smile a blessing90 on their little scene of revelry? O, it was Christmas over all the world! And on this day at least the white man and the “little brown brother” could shake hands over mutual91 interests.
点击
收听单词发音
收听单词发音 |
1
Christian
|
|
| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
2
raisins
|
|
| n.葡萄干( raisin的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
3
crackers
|
|
| adj.精神错乱的，癫狂的n.爆竹( cracker的名词复数 )；薄脆饼干；（认为）十分愉快的事；迷人的姑娘 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
4
boughs
|
|
| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
5
hostel
|
|
| n.（学生）宿舍，招待所 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
6
landlady
|
|
| n.女房东，女地主 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
7
slovenly
|
|
| adj.懒散的，不整齐的，邋遢的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
8
pretentious
|
|
| adj.自命不凡的，自负的，炫耀的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
9
tarnished
|
|
| （通常指金属）（使）失去光泽，（使）变灰暗( tarnish的过去式和过去分词 )； 玷污，败坏 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
10
gilt
|
|
| adj.镀金的；n.金边证券 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
11
lithographs
|
|
| n.平版印刷品( lithograph的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
12
majestic
|
|
| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
13
considerably
|
|
| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
14
ornamented
|
|
| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
15
frescoed
|
|
| 壁画( fresco的名词复数 )； 温壁画技法，湿壁画 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
16
refreshments
|
|
| n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
17
lavishly
|
|
| adv.慷慨地，大方地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
18
devoted
|
|
| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
19
rendering
|
|
| n.表现，描写 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
20
tolled
|
|
| 鸣钟（toll的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
21
auditorium
|
|
| n.观众席，听众席；会堂，礼堂 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
22
slippers
|
|
| n. 拖鞋 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
23
musk
|
|
| n.麝香, 能发出麝香的各种各样的植物，香猫 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
24
loft
|
|
| n.阁楼，顶楼 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
25
acolytes
|
|
| n.助手( acolyte的名词复数 )；随从；新手；（天主教）侍祭 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
26
thronged
|
|
| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
27
chaos
|
|
| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
28
wagers
|
|
| n.赌注，用钱打赌( wager的名词复数 )v.在（某物）上赌钱，打赌( wager的第三人称单数 )；保证，担保 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
29
erratic
|
|
| adj.古怪的，反复无常的，不稳定的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
30
enthusiast
|
|
| n.热心人，热衷者 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
31
diminution
|
|
| n.减少；变小 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
32
enjoyment
|
|
| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
33
flute
|
|
| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
34
flutes
|
|
| 长笛( flute的名词复数 )； 细长香槟杯（形似长笛） | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
35
overture
|
|
| n.前奏曲、序曲，提议，提案，初步交涉 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
36
proprietor
|
|
| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
37
concealed
|
|
| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
38
climax
|
|
| n.顶点；高潮；v.(使)达到顶点 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
39
canes
|
|
| n.（某些植物，如竹或甘蔗的）茎( cane的名词复数 )；（用于制作家具等的）竹竿；竹杖 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
40
pony
|
|
| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
41
underneath
|
|
| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
42
strenuous
|
|
| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
43
monotonous
|
|
| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
44
plied
|
|
| v.使用（工具）( ply的过去式和过去分词 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
45
droll
|
|
| adj.古怪的，好笑的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
46
marionette
|
|
| n.木偶 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
47
ragged
|
|
| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
48
approbation
|
|
| n.称赞；认可 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
49
frantic
|
|
| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
50
instinctive
|
|
| adj.(出于)本能的；直觉的；(出于)天性的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
51
warriors
|
|
| 武士，勇士，战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
52
flopped
|
|
| v.（指书、戏剧等）彻底失败( flop的过去式和过去分词 )；（因疲惫而）猛然坐下；（笨拙地、不由自主地或松弛地）移动或落下；砸锅 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
53
mere
|
|
| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
54
majesty
|
|
| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
55
remains
|
|
| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
56
assassination
|
|
| n.暗杀；暗杀事件 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
57
barbarian
|
|
| n.野蛮人；adj.野蛮(人)的；未开化的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
58
virgin
|
|
| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
59
confirmation
|
|
| n.证实，确认，批准 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
60
crook
|
|
| v.使弯曲；n.小偷，骗子，贼；弯曲(处) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
61
adoration
|
|
| n.爱慕，崇拜 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
62
tambourine
|
|
| n.铃鼓，手鼓 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
63
starry
|
|
| adj.星光照耀的, 闪亮的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
64
followers
|
|
| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
65
grove
|
|
| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
66
thereby
|
|
| adv.因此，从而 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
67
buckle
|
|
| n.扣子，带扣；v.把...扣住，由于压力而弯曲 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
68
lesser
|
|
| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
69
plank
|
|
| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
70
sagging
|
|
| 下垂[沉，陷]，松垂，垂度 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
71
belly
|
|
| n.肚子，腹部；(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分，膛 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
72
fixed
|
|
| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
73
squealing
|
|
| v.长声尖叫，用长而尖锐的声音说( squeal的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
74
desperately
|
|
| adv.极度渴望地，绝望地，孤注一掷地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
75
dire
|
|
| adj.可怕的，悲惨的，阴惨的，极端的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
76
regained
|
|
| 复得( regain的过去式和过去分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
77
astonishment
|
|
| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
78
scudded
|
|
| v.（尤指船、舰或云彩）笔直、高速而平稳地移动( scud的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
79
squeak
|
|
| n.吱吱声，逃脱；v.（发出）吱吱叫，侥幸通过；（俚）告密 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
80
collapse
|
|
| vi.累倒；昏倒；倒塌；塌陷 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
81
chattering
|
|
| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
82
delicacy
|
|
| n.精致，细微，微妙，精良；美味，佳肴 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
83
triumphantly
|
|
| ad.得意洋洋地；得胜地；成功地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
84
alcove
|
|
| n.凹室 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
85
stewed
|
|
| adj.焦虑不安的，烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 )；煨；思考；担忧 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
86
shuddered
|
|
| v.战栗( shudder的过去式和过去分词 )；发抖；（机器、车辆等）突然震动；颤动 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
87
gnawed
|
|
| 咬( gnaw的过去式和过去分词 )； （长时间） 折磨某人； （使）苦恼； （长时间）危害某事物 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
88
relish
|
|
| n.滋味，享受，爱好，调味品；vt.加调味料，享受，品味；vi.有滋味 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
89
ridges
|
|
| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
90
blessing
|
|
| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
91
mutual
|
|
| adj.相互的，彼此的；共同的，共有的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
| 欢迎访问英文小说网 |