Each town, besides the regular church holidays—as indicated by innumerable red marks in the calendar—has a fiesta for its patron saint, which is of more importance even than the “Feast of Aguinaldo” (“Aguinaldo” is their word for [281]“Christmas present”), which is held annually4 in December. One of these fiestas is announced by the ringing of the church-bells—big bells and little bells all turning somersaults, and being banged as they go round. During the intermissions the municipal band discourses5 Spanish and Visayan music, coming to the end with a triumphant6 bang. Only on Holy Friday are the bells abandoned and tin pans and bamboo clappers, sticks and stones, resorted to for purposes of lamentation—functions for which these instruments are perfectly7 adapted.
People come in from far and near, riding in bancas or on ponies8, often spending several nights upon the way. The great church at the morning mass is crowded; women faint; and, as the heat increases, it becomes a steaming oven. It is more spectacular at vespers, with the women kneeling among the goats and dogs; the men, uncovered, standing10 in the shadows of the gallery; the altar sparkling with a hundred candles; and the dying sunlight filtering through medi?val windows. As the resinous11 incense12 odor fills the house, through the wide-open doors the [282]sun can be seen setting in its tropical magnificence behind a grove13 of palms.
Then the procession, in a haze14 of dust—led by the band, the padre, and the acolytes15; the sacred relics16 borne aloft on floats encircled by a blaze of candles; young men holding each other’s hands; children and old women following, holding their tapers17 and reciting prayers—files through the streets to the eternal clamor of the bells.
The afternoon is given up to tournaments—carabao races, pony18 races, banca races, cock-fights. Bamboo arches, decorated with red banners, are erected19 in the larger thoroughfares, and under these the horsemen ride together at full tilt20, attempting to secure upon their lances the suspended rings which are the favors of the local se?oritas. On dropping in at that volcanic21 little town, Mambajo, one hot afternoon, I found a goose hung up upon the bamboo framework which became the property of the competitor who, riding under it ventre á terre, could seize the prize, regardless of the feelings of the goose. The village had turned out in holiday attire22, as [283]the dense23 atmosphere of cocoanut-oil and perfumery proclaimed. The band, in white pith helmets and new linen24 uniforms, was playing under the mimosa-tree. Down the main road a struggling crowd of wheelmen came, and from a cloud of dust the winner of the mile bicycle-race shot past the tape. The difficulty in the carabao event was to stick on to the broad, clumsy animal, during the gallop25 around the course. One of the beasts, excited by the shouts, began to run amuck26, and cut a swathe in the distracted crowd as clean as an ungovernable automobile27 might have made.
The ringing of a bell announced the cock-fight in the main beneath the cocoanut-trees. It was near the market-place, where venders of betel-nut, tobacco, cigarettes, and tuba squatted28 on the ground, their wares29 exposed for sale on mats. As the spectators crowded in, the gatekeeper would mark their bare feet with a red stamp, indicating that admission had been paid. On booths arranged within the last inclosure, se?oritas sold hot chocolate and raisin-cakes and beer. Tethered to little stakes, and straining at their leashes30, the excited game-cocks, the descendants [284]of the jungle-fowl, screamed in exultant31 unison32. The small boys, having climbed the cocoanut-palms, clung to the notches33, and looked down upon the scene of conflict.
Little brown men, squatting34 around the birds, were critically hefting them, or matching couples of them in preliminary bouts35, keeping a good hold of their tails. There was the wicked little Moro Bangcorong, the trainer of birds that never lost a fight. There was Manolo, the Visayan dandy, who on recent winnings in the main, supported a small stable of racing36 ponies at Cebu. The person entering a bird deposits a certain amount of money with the bank. This wager37 is then covered by the smaller bets of hoi poiloi. When a “dark” bird is victorious38, and the crowd wins, an enthusiastic yell goes up. But just as in a public lottery39, fortune is seldom with the great majority. As the bell rings, the spectators press close around the bamboo pit, or climb to points of vantage in adjacent scaffolding. A line is drawn40 in the damp earth, and on one side all the money wagered41 on the favorite is arranged, which must be balanced by the coin placed by opposing [285]betters on the other side. There is a frantic42 rushing around at the last moment to place bets. The Chinaman waves a ten-peso bill excitedly, and clamors “buenting! buenting!”—meaning that he puts his money on the speckled bird. Somebody on the other side cries out “guingan!” or “green,” and thus they both find takers for their “sapi.” Then the presidente, who referees43 the fight, sends two policemen to clear out the ring; the sheaths are removed from the razor-sharp steel spurs; the two cocks are held opposite each other, and are simultaneously44 launched into the arena45. Ruffling46, and facing each other with their necks outstretched, “blood in their eyes,” and realizing to the full extent the danger of the situation, they prepare to fight it out to death. A quick stab, and the victim, trembling violently, a stream of red blood trickling47 down its leg, drops at the first encounter, and the fight is over.
While no record has been kept of how the bets were placed, every one seems to remember, and the money is handed over honestly. If Filipinos were as honorable in all their dealings as they are in this, they would be ideal people to do business [286]with; for although they will beg and borrow, or even steal, to get the money which is wagered at these “combats,” they will never evade48 a debt of honor thus incurred49. Regarding gambling50 as a livelihood51, or a profession in good standing, they devote their best hours to the study and the mastery of it. They, with their false philosophy, believe that wealth is thus produced, and that there is a gain for every one.
The list of fights progresses, some of the cocks only giving up the struggle after a last dying kick has been directed at the breast of the antagonist52, who, desperately53 wounded, summons strength for one triumphant, but a rather husky, crow. Sometimes both birds are taken from the cockpit dead. The bird that loses a fight through cowardice54 is rent limb from limb by the indignant owner, and is ignominiously55 hung upon the bamboo paling,—bird of ill omen9, that has ruined the finances of a family, mortgaged the house and carabao, and plunged56 its owner into debt for the next year!
Sometimes a “free for all” is substituted for the dual57 contest. Eighteen or twenty fighting-cocks will be arranged in a large circle, dropped [287]at the same time in the ring, and set to work. Half of the birds, not realizing what is going on, will innocently start to scratch for worms, or set out on a search for seeds. It is amusing then to see the astonished look they give when suddenly confronted by a couple of antagonists58. They settle their disputes in bunches of three and four, and soon the ring is full of chickens running to get out of danger, maimed and crippled, or still innocently scratching after worms. There was a little white cock at the recent main at Oroquieta, who avoided every fight without, however, leaving the arena. The game old buzzard that belonged to Capitan A-Bey—a bird with legs like stilts59 and barren patches in his foliage—had put down every challenger in turn. Confronted by two birds at once, he seemed to say, “One side, old fellow, for a moment; will attend to your case later”—which he did. Dizzy and staggering from loss of blood, still “in the ring,” he sidled up to the immaculate white bird that had so ingeniously evaded60 every fight. It was a case of out-and-out bluff61. If the little bird had struck, he must have won. A single look, however, at his reprehensible62 [288]antagonist sufficed. The little bird made a direct line for the gate, while Capitan A-Bey’s old rooster, with defiance63 in his look and voice, was carried away in triumph. In the parade next day, where the competing game-cocks were exhibited, the “buzzard,” though he was exempt64 from taking part in the proceedings65, led the procession and was loudly cheered.
My introduction to polite society in Filipinia was certainly auspicious66. “Betel-Nut Sal,” the wife of the constabulary sergeant67, had a birthday, and invited everybody to the dance and the reception which would take place in the jail. The Se?orita Tonio, most prominent of the receiving ladies, was engaged when I arrived, in meting68 out gin to the visitors. Her teeth were red from betel-chewing, and a cigarette hung from the corner of her mouth. The orchestra, armed with guitars and mandolins, had seated themselves upon a bench, barefooted with their legs crossed, ready to begin. The insufficiency of partners for the ladies had necessitated69 letting out most of the prisoners on parole. A certain young dandy who [289]had been locked up on charge of murder, was the hero of the hour. While he was dancing, soldiers with their Remingtons guarded the door. I was induced to try a dance with Tonio. The hum of music could be heard above the “clack-clack” of the carpet-slippers tapping on the floor. Then suddenly the se?orita swore a white man’s oath, and stopped. Her carpet-slipper had come off, and as she wore no hosiery, the situation was indeed embarrassing. Our hostess asked us twenty times if everything was satisfactory, and finally confessed that she had spent almost a year’s income for the refreshments70. “Dancee now; ma?ana, washie, washie.”
I must tell you of Bernarda’s party. “We expect you for the eating,” read the invitation, and when dinner was all ready I was sent for. Then we sat down to a feast of roast pork, rice, and goat-flesh, with a rather soggy cake for the dessert. At most balls it is customary for the ladies to be seated first at the refreshment-table, where the most substantial articles of diet are boiled ham with sugar frosting, cakes flavored with the native lime, and lemon soda71. Like the coy nun72 in [290]Chaucer’s “Prologue,” she who is most elegant will take care not to spill the food upon her lap, eat with the fingers, or spit out the bones. At wedding feasts the gentlemen are given preference at the table.
When the orchestra arrived—a trifle late after a six-mile hike through muddy roads and over swollen73 streams—the company was more delighted than a nursery. The orchestra began the program with the piece entitled “Just One Girl,” to which the people sang Visayan words. Vivan, the old clown, in clumsy commissary shoes, skated around the floor to the amusement of the whole assembly. The chair-dance was announced, and the most favored se?orita occupied a chair set in the middle of the room. A dozen suitors came in order, bowing low, entreating74 her not to reject their plea. One after another they were thrown down, and retired75 crestfallen76. But at last the right one came, and waltzed off with the girl triumphantly77. There was a salvo of applause, the more intense because in this case an engagement had been practically announced. No native ball would be complete [291]without the symbolistic dance which so epitomizes Filipino character. This is performed by a young lady and her partner wielding78 fans and scented79 handkerchiefs, advancing and retreating with all kinds of coquetries.
Long after midnight, when the party broke up with the customary horse-play, the accommodating orchestra, who had enjoyed the evening with the rest, still playing “Just One Girl,” escorted the assembly home.
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1
monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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pageants
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| n.盛装的游行( pageant的名词复数 )；穿古代服装的游行；再现历史场景的娱乐活动；盛会 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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discourses
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| 论文( discourse的名词复数 )； 演说； 讲道； 话语 | |
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triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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omen
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| n.征兆，预兆；vt.预示 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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resinous
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| adj.树脂的，树脂质的，树脂制的 | |
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incense
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| v.激怒；n.香，焚香时的烟，香气 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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acolytes
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| n.助手( acolyte的名词复数 )；随从；新手；（天主教）侍祭 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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tapers
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| （长形物体的）逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 )； 微弱的光； 极细的蜡烛 | |
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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tilt
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| v.(使)倾侧；(使)倾斜；n.倾侧；倾斜 | |
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21
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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amuck
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| ad.狂乱地 | |
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automobile
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| n.汽车，机动车 | |
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28
squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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wares
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| n. 货物, 商品 | |
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leashes
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| n.拴猎狗的皮带( leash的名词复数 ) | |
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exultant
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| adj.欢腾的，狂欢的，大喜的 | |
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unison
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| n.步调一致，行动一致 | |
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notches
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| n.（边缘或表面上的）V型痕迹( notch的名词复数 )；刻痕；水平；等级 | |
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34
squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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bouts
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| n.拳击（或摔跤）比赛( bout的名词复数 )；一段（工作）；（尤指坏事的）一通；（疾病的）发作 | |
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racing
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| n.竞赛，赛马；adj.竞赛用的，赛马用的 | |
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wager
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| n.赌注；vt.押注，打赌 | |
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victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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lottery
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| n.抽彩；碰运气的事，难于算计的事 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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wagered
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| v.在（某物）上赌钱，打赌( wager的过去式和过去分词 )；保证，担保 | |
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42
frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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43
referees
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| n.裁判员( referee的名词复数 )；证明人；公断人；（专业性强的文章的）审阅人 | |
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simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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arena
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| n.竞技场，运动场所；竞争场所，舞台 | |
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46
ruffling
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| 弄皱( ruffle的现在分词 )； 弄乱； 激怒； 扰乱 | |
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47
trickling
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| n.油画底色含油太多而成泡沫状突起v.滴( trickle的现在分词 )；淌；使)慢慢走；缓慢移动 | |
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48
evade
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| vt.逃避，回避；避开，躲避 | |
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49
incurred
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| [医]招致的，遭受的； incur的过去式 | |
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50
gambling
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| n.赌博；投机 | |
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51
livelihood
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| n.生计，谋生之道 | |
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52
antagonist
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| n.敌人，对抗者，对手 | |
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53
desperately
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| adv.极度渴望地，绝望地，孤注一掷地 | |
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54
cowardice
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| n.胆小，怯懦 | |
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ignominiously
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| adv.耻辱地，屈辱地，丢脸地 | |
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56
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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dual
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| adj.双的；二重的，二元的 | |
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antagonists
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| 对立[对抗] 者，对手，敌手( antagonist的名词复数 )； 对抗肌； 对抗药 | |
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stilts
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| n.（支撑建筑物高出地面或水面的）桩子，支柱( stilt的名词复数 )；高跷 | |
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evaded
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| 逃避( evade的过去式和过去分词 )； 避开； 回避； 想不出 | |
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bluff
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| v.虚张声势，用假象骗人；n.虚张声势，欺骗 | |
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reprehensible
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| adj.该受责备的 | |
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defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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exempt
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| adj.免除的；v.使免除；n.免税者，被免除义务者 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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auspicious
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| adj.吉利的；幸运的，吉兆的 | |
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sergeant
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| n.警官，中士 | |
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meting
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| v.（对某人）施以，给予（处罚等）( mete的现在分词 ) | |
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necessitated
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| 使…成为必要，需要( necessitate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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refreshments
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| n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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soda
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| n.苏打水；汽水 | |
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nun
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| n.修女，尼姑 | |
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swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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entreating
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| 恳求，乞求( entreat的现在分词 ) | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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crestfallen
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| adj. 挫败的，失望的，沮丧的 | |
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triumphantly
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| ad.得意洋洋地；得胜地；成功地 | |
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wielding
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| 手持着使用（武器、工具等）( wield的现在分词 )； 具有； 运用（权力）； 施加（影响） | |
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scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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