It is built down close to the sea—or rather, on the lagune which forms the harbour, has a southern aspect, and is hot even in winter. I have seen the thermometer considerably3 above eighty in the shade in December, and the mornings are peculiarly hot, so that there is no time at which exercise can be taken with comfort. At about 10 a.m., a sea breeze springs up, which makes it somewhat cooler than it is two hours earlier—that is, cooler in the houses. The sea breeze, however, is not of a nature to soften4 the heat of the sun, or to make it even safe to walk far at that hour. Then, in the evening, there is no twilight5, and when the sun is down it is dark. The stranger will not find it agreeable to walk much about Kingston in the dark.
Indeed, the residents in the town, and in the neighbourhood of the town, never walk. Men, even young men, whose homes are some mile or half-mile distant from their offices, ride or drive to their work as systematically6 as a man who lives at Watford takes the railway.
Kingston, on a map—for there is a map even of Kingston—looks admirably well. The streets all run in parallels. There is a fine large square, plenty of public buildings, and almost a plethora7 of places of worship. Everything is named with propriety8, and there could be no nicer town anywhere. But this word of promise to the ear is strangely broken when the performance is brought to the test. More than half the streets are not filled with houses. Those which are so filled, and those which are not, have an equally rugged9, disreputable, and bankrupt appearance. The houses are mostly of wood, and are unpainted, disjointed, and going to ruin. Those which are built with brick not unfrequently appear as though the mortar10 had been diligently11 picked out from the interstices.
But the disgrace of Jamaica is the causeway of the streets themselves. There never was so odious13 a place in which to move. There is no pathway or trottoir to the streets, though there is very generally some such—I cannot call it accommodation—before each individual house. But as these are all broken from each other by steps up and down, as they are of different levels, and sometimes terminate abruptly14 without any steps, they cannot be used by the public. One is driven, therefore, into the middle of the street. But the street is neither paved nor macadamized, nor prepared for traffic in any way. In dry weather it is a bed of sand, and in wet weather it is a watercourse. Down the middle of this the unfortunate pedestrian has to wade16, with a tropical sun on his head; and this he must do in a town which, from its position, is hotter than almost any other in the West Indies. It is no wonder that there should be but little walking.
But the stranger does not find himself naturally in possession of a horse and carriage. He may have a saddle-horse for eight shillings; but that is expensive as well as dilatory17 if he merely wishes to call at the post-office, or buy a pair of gloves. There are articles which they call omnibuses, and which ply18 cheap enough, and carry men to any part of the town for sixpence; that is, they will do so if you can find them. They do not run from any given point to any other, but meander19 about through the slush and sand, and are as difficult to catch as the musquitoes.
The city of Havana, in Cuba, is lighted at night by oil-lamps. The little town of Cien Fuegos, in the same island, is lighted by gas. But Kingston is not lighted at all!
We all know that Jamaica is not thriving as once it throve, and that one can hardly expect to find there all the energy of a prosperous people. But still I think that something might be done to redeem20 this town from its utter disgrace. Kingston itself is not without wealth. If what one hears on such subjects contains any indications towards the truth, those in trade there are still doing well. There is a mayor, and there are aldermen. All the paraphernalia21 for carrying on municipal improvements are ready. If the inhabitants have about themselves any pride in their locality, let them, in the name of common decency22, prepare some sort of causeway in the streets; with some drainage arrangement, by which rain may run off into the sea without lingering for hours in every corner of the town. Nothing could be easier, for there is a fall towards the shore through the whole place. As it is now, Kingston is a disgrace to the country that owns it.
One is peculiarly struck also by the ugliness of the buildings—those buildings, that is, which partake in any degree of a public character—the churches and places of worship, the public offices, and such like. We have no right, perhaps, to expect good taste so far away from any school in which good taste is taught; and it may, perhaps, be said by some that we have sins enough of our own at home to induce us to be silent on this head. But it is singular that any man who could put bricks and stones and timber together should put them together in such hideous23 forms as those which are to be seen here.
I never met a wider and a kinder hospitality than I did in Jamaica, but I neither ate nor drank in any house in Kingston except my hotel, nor, as far as I can remember, did I enter any house except in the way of business. And yet I was there—necessarily there, unfortunately—for some considerable time. The fact is, that hardly any Europeans, or even white Creoles, live in the town. They have country seats, pens as they call them, at some little distance. They hate the town, and it is no wonder they should do so.
That which tends in part to the desolation of Kingston—or rather, to put the proposition in a juster form, which prevents Kingston from enjoying those advantages which would naturally attach to the metropolis25 of the island—is this: the seat of government is not there, but at Spanish Town. Then our naval26 establishment is at Port Royal.
When a city is in itself thriving, populous27, and of great commercial importance, it may be very well to make it wholly independent of the government. New York, probably, might be no whit24 improved were the National Congress to be held there; nor Amsterdam, perhaps, if the Hague were abandoned; but it would be a great thing for Kingston if Spanish Town were deserted28.
The Governor lives at the latter place, as do also those satellites or moons who revolve29 round the larger luminary—the secretaries, namely, and executive officers. These in Jamaica are now so reduced in size that they could not perhaps do much for any city; but they would do a little, and to Kingston any little would be acceptable. Then the Legislative30 Council and the House of Assembly sit at Spanish Town, and the members—at any rate of the latter body—are obliged to live there during some three months of the year, not generally in very comfortable lodgings31.
Respectable residents in the island, who would pay some attention to the Governor if he lived at the principal town, find it impossible to undergo the nuisance of visiting Spanish Town, and in this way go neither to the one nor the other, unless when passing through Kingston on their biennial32 or triennial visits to the old country.
And those visits to Spanish Town are indeed a nuisance. In saying this, I reflect in no way on the Governor or the Governor's people. Were Gabriel Governor of Jamaica, with only five thousand pounds a year, and had he a dozen angels with him as secretaries and aides-de-camp, mortal men would not go to them at Spanish Town after they had once seen of what feathers their wings were made.
It is like the city of the dead. There are long streets there in which no human inhabitant is ever seen. In others a silent old negro woman may be sitting at an open door, or a child playing, solitary33, in the dust. The Governor's house—King's House as it is called—stands on one side of a square; opposite is the house of the Assembly; on the left, as you come out from the Governor's, are the executive offices and house of the Council, and on the right some other public buildings. The place would have some pretension34 about it did it not seem to be stricken with an eternal death. All the walls are of a dismal35 dirty yellow, and a stranger cannot but think that the colour is owing to the dreadfully prevailing36 disease of the country. In this square there are no sounds; men and women never frequent it; nothing enters it but sunbeams—and such sunbeams! The glare from those walls seems to forbid that men and women should come there.
The parched37, dusty, deserted streets are all hot and perfectly38 without shade. The crafty39 Italians have built their narrow streets so that the sun can hardly enter them, except when he is in the mid15 heaven; but there has been no such craft at Spanish Town. The houses are very low, and when there is any sun in the heavens it can enter those streets; and in those heavens there is always a burning, broiling40 sun.
But the place is not wholly deserted. There is here the most frightfully hideous race of pigs that ever made a man ashamed to own himself a bacon-eating biped. I have never done much in pigs myself, but I believe that pigly grace consists in plumpness and comparative shortness—in shortness, above all, of the face and nose. The Spanish Town pigs are never plump. They are the very ghosts of swine, consisting entirely41 of bones and bristles42. Their backs are long, their ribs43 are long, their legs are long, but, above all, their heads and noses are hideously44 long. These brutes45 prowl about in the sun, and glare at the unfrequent strangers with their starved eyes, as though doubting themselves whether, by some little exertion46, they might not become beasts of prey47.
The necessity which exists for white men going to Spanish Town to see the Governor results, I do not doubt, in some deaths every year. I will describe the first time I was thus punished. Spanish Town is thirteen miles from Kingston, and the journey is accomplished48 by railway in somewhat under an hour. The trains run about every four hours. On my arrival a public vehicle took me from the station up to King's House, and everything seemed to be very convenient. The streets, certainly, were rather dead, and the place hot; but I was under cover, and the desolation did not seem to affect me. When I was landed on the steps of the government-house, the first idea of my coming sorrows flitted across my mind. "Where shall I call for you?" said the driver; "the train goes at a quarter past four." It was then one: and where was he to call for me? and what was I to do with myself for three hours? "Here," I said; "on these steps." What other place could I name? I knew no other place in Spanish Town.
The Governor was all that was obliging—as Governors now-a-days always are—and made an appointment for me to come again on the following day, to see some one or say something, who or which could not be seen or said on that occasion. Thus some twenty minutes were exhausted49, and there remained two hours and fifty minutes more upon my hands.
How I wished that the big man's big men had not been so rapidly courteous—that they had kept me waiting for some hour or so, to teach me that I was among big people, as used to be done in the good old times! In such event, I should at any rate have had a seat, though a hard one, and shelter from the sun. But not a moment's grace had been afforded me. At the end of twenty minutes I found myself again standing50 on those glaring steps.
What should I do? Where should I go? Looking all around me, I did not see as much life as would serve to open a door if I asked for shelter. I stood upon those desolate51 steps till the perspiration52 ran down my face with the labour of standing. Where was I to go? What was I to do? "Inhospitalem caucasum!" I exclaimed, as I slowly made my way down into the square.
When an Englishman has nothing to do, and a certain time to wait, his one resource is to walk about. A Frenchman sits down and lights a cigar, an Italian goes to sleep, a German meditates53, an American invents some new position for his limbs as far as possible asunder54 from that intended for them by nature, but an Englishman always takes a walk. I had nothing to do. Even under the full fury of the sun walking is better than standing still. I would take a walk.
I moved slowly round the square, and by the time that I had reached an opposite corner all my clothes were wet through. On I went, however, down one dead street and up another. I saw no one but the pigs, and almost envied them their fleshlessness. I turned another corner, and I came upon the square again. That seemed to me to be the lowest depth of all that fiery55 Pandemonium56, and with a quickened step I passed through but a corner of it. But the sun blazed even fiercer and fiercer. Should I go back and ask for a seat, if it were but on a bench in the government scullery, among the female negroes?
Something I must do, or there would soon be an end of me. There must be some inn in the place, if I could only find it. I was not absolutely in the midst of the Great Sahara. There were houses on each side of me, though they were all closed. I looked at my watch, and found that ten minutes had passed by since I had been on my legs. I thought I had wandered for an hour.
And now I saw an old woman—the first human creature I had seen since I left the light of the Governor's face; the shade I should say, meaning to speak of it in the most complimentary57 terms. "Madam," said I, "is there an inn here; and if so, where may it be?" "Inn!" repeated the ancient negress, looking at me in a startled way. "Me know noting, massa;" and so she passed on. Inns in Jamaica are called lodging-houses, or else taverns58; but I did not find this out till afterwards.
And then I saw a man walking quickly with a basket across the street, some way in advance of me. If I did not run I should miss him; so I did run; and I hallooed also. I shall never forget the exertion. "Is there a public-house," I exclaimed, feverishly60, "in this —— place?" I forget the exact word which should fill up the blank, but I think it was "blessed."
"Pubberlic-house, massa, in dis d——m place," said the grinning negro, repeating my words after me, only that I know he used the offensive phrase which I have designated. "Pubberlic-house! what dat?" and then he adjusted his basket on his head, and proceeded to walk on.
By this time I was half blind, and my head reeled through the effects of the sun. But I could not allow myself to perish there, in the middle of Spanish Town, without an effort. It behoved me as a man to do something to save my life. So I stopped the fellow, and at last succeeded in making him understand that I would give him sixpence if he would conduct me to some house of public entertainment.
"Oh, de Vellington tavern59," said he; and taking me to a corner three yards from where we stood, he showed me the sign-board. "And now de two quatties," he said. I knew nothing of quatties then, but I gave him the sixpence, and in a few minutes I found myself within the "Wellington."
It was a miserable61 hole, but it did afford me shelter. Indeed, it would not have been so miserable had I known at first, as I did some few minutes before I left, that there was a better room up stairs. But the people of the house could not suppose but what every one knew the "Wellington;" and thought, doubtless, that I preferred remaining below in the dirt.
I was over two hours in this place, and even that was not pleasant. When I went up into the fashionable room above, I found there, among others, a negro of exceeding blackness. I do not know that I ever saw skin so purely62 black. He was talking eagerly with his friends, and after a while I heard him say, in a voice of considerable dignity, "I shall bring forward a motion on de subject in de house to-morrow." So that I had not fallen into bad society.
But even under these circumstances two hours spent in a tavern without a book, without any necessity for eating or drinking, is not pleasant; and I trust that when I next visit Jamaica I may find the seat of government moved to Kingston. The Governor would do Kingston some good; and it is on the cards that Kingston might return the compliment.
The inns in Kingston rejoice in the grand name of halls. Not that you ask which is the best hall, or inquire at what hall your friend is staying; but such is the title given to the individual house. One is the Date-tree Hall, another Blundle's Hall, a third Barkly Hall, and so on. I took up my abode63 at Blundle Hall, and found that the landlady64 in whose custody65 I had placed myself was a sister of good Mrs. Seacole. "My sister wanted to go to India," said my landlady, "with the army, you know. But Queen Victoria would not let her; her life was too precious." So that Mrs. Seacole is a prophet, even in her own country.
Much cannot be said for the West Indian hotels in general. By far the best that I met was at Cien Fuegos, in Cuba. This one, kept by Mrs. Seacole's sister, was not worse, if not much better, than the average. It was clean, and reasonable as to its charges. I used to wish that the patriotic66 lady who kept it could be induced to abandon the idea that beefsteaks and onions, and bread and cheese and beer composed the only diet proper for an Englishman. But it is to be remarked all through the island that the people are fond of English dishes, and that they despise, or affect to despise, their own productions. They will give you ox-tail soup when turtle would be much cheaper. Roast beef and beefsteaks are found at almost every meal. An immense deal of beer is consumed. When yams, avocado pears, the mountain cabbage, plaintains, and twenty other delicious vegetables may be had for the gathering67, people will insist on eating bad English potatoes; and the desire for English pickles68 is quite a passion. This is one phase of that love for England which is so predominant a characteristic of the white inhabitants of the West Indies.
At the inns, as at the private houses, the household servants are almost always black. The manners of these people are to a stranger very strange. They are not absolutely uncivil, except on occasions; but they have an easy, free, patronizing air. If you find fault with them, they insist on having the last word, and are generally successful. They do not appear to be greedy of money; rarely ask for it, and express but little thankfulness when they get it. At home, in England, one is apt to think that an extra shilling will go a long way with boots and chambermaid, and produce hotter water, more copious69 towels, and quicker attendance than is ordinary. But in the West Indies a similar result does not follow in a similar degree. And in the West Indies it is absolutely necessary that these people should be treated with dignity; and it is not always very easy to reach the proper point of dignity. They like familiarity, but are singularly averse70 to ridicule71; and though they wish to be on good terms with you, they do not choose that these shall be reached without the proper degree of antecedent ceremony.
"Halloo, old fellow! how about that bath?" I said one morning to a lad who had been commissioned to see a bath filled for me. He was cleaning boots at the time, and went on with his employment, sedulously73, as though he had not heard a word. But he was over sedulous72, and I saw that he heard me.
"I say, how about that bath?" I continued. But he did not move a muscle.
"Put down those boots, sir," I said, going up to him; "and go and do as I bid you."
"Who you call fellor? You speak to a gen'lman gen'lmanly, and den1 he fill de bath."
"James," said I, "might I trouble you to leave those boots, and see the bath filled for me?" and I bowed to him.
"'Es, sir," he answered, returning my bow; "go at once." And so he did, perfectly satisfied. Had he imagined, however, that I was quizzing him, in all probability he would not have gone at all.
There will be those who will say that I had received a good lesson; and perhaps I had. But it would be rather cumbersome74 if we were forced to treat our juvenile75 servants at home in this manner—or even those who are not juvenile.
I must say this for the servants, that I never knew them to steal anything, or heard of their doing so from any one else. If any one deserves to be robbed, I deserve it; for I leave my keys and my money everywhere, and seldom find time to lock my portmanteau. But my carelessness was not punished in Jamaica. And this I think is the character of the people as regards absolute personal property—personal property that has been housed and garnered—that has, as it were, been made the possessor's very own. There can be no more diligent12 thieves than they are in appropriating to themselves the fruits of the earth while they are still on the trees. They will not understand that this is stealing. Nor can much be said for their honesty in dealing76. There is a great difference between cheating and stealing in the minds of many men, whether they be black or white.
There are good shops in Kingston, and I believe that men in trade are making money there. I cannot tell on what principle prices range themselves as compared with those in England. Some things are considerably cheaper than with us, and some much, very much dearer. A pair of excellent duck trousers, if I may be excused for alluding77 to them, cost me eighteen shillings when made to order. Whereas, a pair of evening white gloves could not be had under four-and-sixpence. That, at least, was the price charged, though I am bound to own that the shop-boy considerately returned me sixpence, discount for ready money.
The men in the shops are generally of the coloured race, and they are also extremely free and easy in their manners. From them this is more disagreeable than from the negroes. "Four-and-sixpence for white gloves!" I said; "is not that high?" "Not at all, sir; by no means. We consider it rather cheap. But in Kingston, sir, you must not think about little economies." And he leered at me in a very nauseous manner as he tied his parcel. However, I ought to forgive him, for did he not return to me sixpence discount, unasked?
There are various places of worship in Kingston, and the negroes are fond of attending them. But they love best that class of religion which allows them to hear the most of their own voices. They are therefore fond of Baptists; and fonder of the Wesleyans than of the Church of England. Many also are Roman Catholics. Their singing-classes are constantly to be heard as one walks through the streets. No religion is worth anything to them which does not offer the allurement78 of some excitement.
Very little excitement is to be found in the Church-of-England Kingston parish church. The church itself, with its rickety pews, and creaking doors, and wretched seats made purposely so as to render genuflexion impossible, and the sleepy, droning, somnolent79 service are exactly what was so common in England twenty years since; but which are common no longer, thanks to certain much-abused clerical gentlemen. Not but that it may still be found in England if diligently sought for.
But I must not finish my notice on the town of Kingston without a word of allusion80 to my enemies, the musquitoes. Let no European attempt to sleep there at any time of the year without musquito-curtains. If he do, it will only be an attempt; which will probably end in madness and fever before morning.
Nor will musquito-curtains suffice unless they are brushed out with no ordinary care, and then tucked in; and unless, also, the would-be-sleeper, after having cunningly crept into his bed at the smallest available aperture81, carefully pins up that aperture. Your Kingston musquito is the craftiest82 of insects, and the most deadly.
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den
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| n.兽穴；秘密地方；安静的小房间，私室 | |
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alluring
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| adj.吸引人的，迷人的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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soften
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| v.(使)变柔软；(使)变柔和 | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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systematically
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| adv.有系统地 | |
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plethora
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| n.过量，过剩 | |
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propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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mortar
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| n.灰浆，灰泥；迫击炮；v.把…用灰浆涂接合 | |
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diligently
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| ad.industriously;carefully | |
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diligent
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| adj.勤勉的，勤奋的 | |
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odious
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| adj.可憎的，讨厌的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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mid
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| adj.中央的，中间的 | |
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wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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dilatory
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| adj.迟缓的，不慌不忙的 | |
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ply
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| v.(搬运工等)等候顾客，弯曲 | |
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meander
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| n.河流的曲折，漫步，迂回旅行；v.缓慢而弯曲地流动，漫谈 | |
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redeem
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| v.买回，赎回，挽回，恢复，履行（诺言等） | |
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paraphernalia
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| n.装备；随身用品 | |
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decency
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| n.体面，得体，合宜，正派，庄重 | |
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hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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whit
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| n.一点，丝毫 | |
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metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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populous
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| adj.人口稠密的，人口众多的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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revolve
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| vi.(使)旋转；循环出现 | |
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legislative
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| n.立法机构，立法权；adj.立法的，有立法权的 | |
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lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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biennial
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| adj.两年一次的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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pretension
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| n.要求；自命，自称；自负 | |
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dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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parched
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| adj.焦干的；极渴的；v.（使）焦干 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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crafty
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| adj.狡猾的，诡诈的 | |
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broiling
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| adj.酷热的，炽热的，似烧的v.（用火）烤（焙、炙等）( broil的现在分词 )；使卷入争吵；使混乱；被烤（或炙） | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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bristles
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| 短而硬的毛发，刷子毛( bristle的名词复数 ) | |
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ribs
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| n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 )；（船或屋顶等的）肋拱；肋骨状的东西；（织物的）凸条花纹 | |
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hideously
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| adv.可怕地，非常讨厌地 | |
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brutes
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| 兽( brute的名词复数 )； 畜生； 残酷无情的人； 兽性 | |
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exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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perspiration
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| n.汗水；出汗 | |
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meditates
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| 深思，沉思，冥想( meditate的第三人称单数 )； 内心策划，考虑 | |
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asunder
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| adj.分离的，化为碎片 | |
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fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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pandemonium
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| n.喧嚣，大混乱 | |
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complimentary
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| adj.赠送的，免费的，赞美的，恭维的 | |
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taverns
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| n.小旅馆，客栈，酒馆( tavern的名词复数 ) | |
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tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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feverishly
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| adv. 兴奋地 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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landlady
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| n.女房东，女地主 | |
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custody
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| n.监护，照看，羁押，拘留 | |
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patriotic
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| adj.爱国的，有爱国心的 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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pickles
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| n.腌菜( pickle的名词复数 )；处于困境；遇到麻烦；菜酱 | |
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copious
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| adj.丰富的，大量的 | |
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averse
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| adj.厌恶的；反对的，不乐意的 | |
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ridicule
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| v.讥讽，挖苦；n.嘲弄 | |
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sedulous
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| adj.勤勉的，努力的 | |
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sedulously
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| ad.孜孜不倦地 | |
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cumbersome
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| adj.笨重的，不便携带的 | |
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juvenile
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| n.青少年，少年读物；adj.青少年的，幼稚的 | |
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dealing
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| n.经商方法，待人态度 | |
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alluding
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| 提及，暗指( allude的现在分词 ) | |
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allurement
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| n.诱惑物 | |
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somnolent
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| adj.想睡的，催眠的；adv.瞌睡地；昏昏欲睡地；使人瞌睡地 | |
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allusion
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| n.暗示，间接提示 | |
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aperture
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| n.孔，隙，窄的缺口 | |
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craftiest
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| 狡猾的，狡诈的( crafty的最高级 ) | |
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