The way men lived in Germany at that date, I find given in a letter from the Baron3 de Zandt to my mother, as follows: “In many parts of Germany,” says the Baron, who, as I very well remember, understood what good living was, “a man may be boarded and lodged4 comfortably for £26 a year. If he prefers economy to comfort, it might be done for considerably5 less.”
From the journal of a walking tour in South Devon, performed in the year 1831, I take the well-nigh incredible statement, that no tobacconist ex professo could at that date be found in Plymouth! “I succeeded after some research,” says the diary, “in getting some tolerable tobacco from a chymist.{222}” Doubtless plenty of tobacco was to be had, if I had known where to look for it—at chandlers’ shops and taverns6. But I have no doubt that the statement in the fifty-five-year-old “text” is correct. No tobacconist’s shop was then to be found in Plymouth.
In July, 1832, I was walking in Wales, and reaching Caermarthen in assize time (where Judge Alderson, as is recorded, was trying prisoners on the Crown side), found much difficulty in getting any accommodation for bed or even board. But at length a commercial gentleman at the Ivy7 Bush, the principal inn, “entering into conversation in a patronising sort of way, told me it was a herror to suppose that commercial men were hadverse to gentlemen making use of the commercial room provided they was gentlemen. For himself, he was always most ’appy to associate with gentlemen;” and, in fine, invited me to join their table, which I did at two o’clock. One of the assembled party—there were some fifteen or sixteen of them—was formally named president for the day, and took the head of the table. We were excruciatingly genteel. I, in my ignorance, asked for beer, but was with much politeness informed that malt liquor was not used at their table. Every man was expected to consume a pint8 of most atrocious sherry at 5s. 6d., which I suppose compensated9 the landlord for the wonderfully small price of the dinner. A dinner of three courses, consisting of salmon10, chicken, venison, three or four made dishes, and pastry11, was put{223} before us. I was surprised at the gorgeousness of this feast, and began to have alarming anticipations12 of the amari aliquid which must follow. But I was assured that this was the ordinary every-day fare of the “commercial gentlemen,” and the bill for the repast was two shillings! My diary records that the conversation at table in no wise savoured of trade in any of its branches. Shakespeare and Walter Scott were descanted on in turn, and one dapper little man, who travelled in cutlery, averred13 that Sir Walter had on one occasion been exceedingly polite to him, and he should always say to the end of his life that he was a gentleman.
At Dolgelly I was struck by the practice prevailing14 there of tolling15, after the ringing of the curfew, a number of strokes on the biggest bell equal to the number of the days which had elapsed of the current month. I wonder whether they do so still?
I went out of my way, I find, in the course of the same journey, in order to go from Liverpool to Manchester by the new railway, which to me, as to thousands of others, was an object of infinite curiosity and interest. My diary notes that there were fifteen carriages attached to the engine, each carrying twelve passengers. Two of these were first-class, and the fare for the journey to Manchester in them was 5s.; in the others the fare was 3s. 6d. The train I was to travel by was called a second-class train. The first-class trains carried no second-class passengers, and did the journey of{224} fifty-two miles in one hour and a half. They stopped only once on the way. The second-class trains stopped frequently, and were two hours on the road. I estimated the speed at something over twenty-five miles an hour, and remark in my diary that “that immense rapidity was manifested to the senses only by looking at the objects passed.”
At Manchester I find myself to have been much scandalised at a scene which I witnessed in the Collegiate Church there. There were seventeen couples to be married, and they were all married at once, the only part of the service individually performed being the “I take thee,” &c. &c. I perfectly16 well remember at this distance of time the bustling17 about of the clerk among them to insure that every male should be coupled to the right female. “After this wholesale19 coupling had been completed,” says my diary, “the daily service was begun, and was performed in a more indecent and slovenly20 way than I ever before witnessed, which is saying a great deal! While the Psalms21 were being sung the priest, as having nothing to do, walked out, and returned just in time to read the Lessons.” Such were the manners and habits of 1832.
A few weeks later I find an entry to the effect that, “while my father was reading Grandison to us in the evening I got M. Hervieu (the artist who did the illustrations for my mother’s Domestic Manners of the Americans and other books, and{225} who chanced to be passing the evening with us en famille) to draw me a caricature illustrating22 the following passage of Beattie’s Minstrel:—
“And yet young Edwin was no vulgar boy;
Deep thought would often fix his youthful eye.
Save one short pipe!”
I possess this remarkable24 work of art to the present day!
At another page I stumble on the record of a conversation with the sexton of Leatherhead, whom, in one of my rambles25, I found digging a grave in the churchyard there. Three shillings, I learned, was the price of a grave of the ordinary depth of five feet. Those, however, who could afford the luxury of lying deeper paid a shilling a foot more.
One more note from the diaries of those days I will venture to give, because it may be taken as a paraleipomenon to that Autobiography26 of my brother, which the world was kindly27 pleased to take some interest in:—
“Went to town yesterday [from Harrow], and among other commissions bought a couple of single-sticks with strong basket handles. Anthony much approves of them, and this morning we had a bout18 with them. One of the sticks bought yesterday soon broke, and we supplied its place by a tremendous blackthorn. Neither of us left the arena28 without a fair share of rather severe wales; but{226} Anthony is far my superior in quickness and adroitness29, and perhaps in bearing pain too. I fear he is likely to remain so in the first two, but in the third I am determined30 he shall not.”
Thus says the yellow fifty-seven-year-old page!
And I have literally31 thousands of such pages; voluminous records—among other matters—of walking excursions in the home counties, in Devon, in Wales, in Gloucestershire, and the banks of the Severn and Wye, not a page of which fails to bear its testimony32 to the curiously33 changed circumstances under which a pedestrian would now undertake such wanderings. I find among other jottings—deemed memorabilia at the time—that I carried a knapsack weighing twenty-eight pounds over the top of Plinlimmon, because I considered seven and sixpence demanded by the guide for accompanying me, excessive.
But ohe! jam satis. I will inflict34 no more upon the patient reader—the impatient will have skipped much of what I have already given him.
Alas35! the amari aliquid of these old records is the unblushing chronicle of intentions, enough to have paved all Acheron with a durability36 unachieved by any highway board! The only comfort for diarists so imprudently candid37 as to record such aspirations38, and so yet more imprudent as to read them half a century after the penning of them, is the consideration that au bout des comptes the question is, not what one has done, but what one has become. If one could flatter oneself that one has the mens{227} sana in corpore sano at seventy-seven years, one might accept and condone39 the past without too much regret; and at all events it is something to have undeniably brought the latter to its seventy-eighth year.
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1 wont | |
adj.习惯于;v.习惯;n.习惯 | |
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2 random | |
adj.随机的;任意的;n.偶然的(或随便的)行动 | |
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3 baron | |
n.男爵;(商业界等)巨头,大王 | |
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4 lodged | |
v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 );暂住;埋入;(权利、权威等)归属 | |
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5 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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6 taverns | |
n.小旅馆,客栈,酒馆( tavern的名词复数 ) | |
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7 ivy | |
n.常青藤,常春藤 | |
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8 pint | |
n.品脱 | |
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9 compensated | |
补偿,报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 ); 给(某人)赔偿(或赔款) | |
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10 salmon | |
n.鲑,大马哈鱼,橙红色的 | |
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11 pastry | |
n.油酥面团,酥皮糕点 | |
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12 anticipations | |
预期( anticipation的名词复数 ); 预测; (信托财产收益的)预支; 预期的事物 | |
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13 averred | |
v.断言( aver的过去式和过去分词 );证实;证明…属实;作为事实提出 | |
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14 prevailing | |
adj.盛行的;占优势的;主要的 | |
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15 tolling | |
[财]来料加工 | |
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16 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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17 bustling | |
adj.喧闹的 | |
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18 bout | |
n.侵袭,发作;一次(阵,回);拳击等比赛 | |
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19 wholesale | |
n.批发;adv.以批发方式;vt.批发,成批出售 | |
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20 slovenly | |
adj.懒散的,不整齐的,邋遢的 | |
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21 psalms | |
n.赞美诗( psalm的名词复数 );圣诗;圣歌;(中的) | |
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22 illustrating | |
给…加插图( illustrate的现在分词 ); 说明; 表明; (用示例、图画等)说明 | |
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23 heeded | |
v.听某人的劝告,听从( heed的过去式和过去分词 );变平,使(某物)变平( flatten的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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25 rambles | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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26 autobiography | |
n.自传 | |
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27 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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28 arena | |
n.竞技场,运动场所;竞争场所,舞台 | |
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29 adroitness | |
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30 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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31 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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32 testimony | |
n.证词;见证,证明 | |
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33 curiously | |
adv.有求知欲地;好问地;奇特地 | |
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34 inflict | |
vt.(on)把…强加给,使遭受,使承担 | |
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35 alas | |
int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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36 durability | |
n.经久性,耐用性 | |
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37 candid | |
adj.公正的,正直的;坦率的 | |
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38 aspirations | |
强烈的愿望( aspiration的名词复数 ); 志向; 发送气音; 发 h 音 | |
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39 condone | |
v.宽恕;原谅 | |
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