ashion is ever changing, and the fickle1 goddess does not seem to know her own mind for very long together. And this remark is as applicable to hairdressing as it is to dress, or, indeed, anything else with which the leaders of ton have to do. To coiffeurs nothing perhaps is more interesting than a perusal3 of old illustrated5 books, and to note the various styles of coiffure. Fifty years ago, when Felix displayed his talent in hairdressing, the front was distinguished6 by a cluster of curls, made with properly cut and tapered7 hair of about seven or eight inches in length, and these curls were designated “frizzed,” or “French curls.” Old hairdressers can remember the “French Fronts,” to which I shall merely allude8. They were made upon wires, with full and round curls (though done with a thin layer of hair), and the roots as well as the points were woven in together. There would probably be five, six, or seven of these curls upon each side; but for an illustration of them I can only refer the reader to the fashions of bye-gone 116days. At the period to which I am referring (and long after), it was no uncommon9 thing to find in hairdressers’ shops a large stock of fronts and bands, and though they may never come into general use again, still, those who wish to be proficient10 in board-work, should learn how to make them. To be well-grounded in the rudiments11 of any trade is of the greatest importance, for all must have a beginning, and the more skilful12 work of the clever tradesman will surely follow after.
There used to be a good demand for French (woven) Ringlet Fronts, and being so light and pretty, the ingenious way of making them, I think, ought to be preserved.
The weaving frame, then, resembles that which was before shown, but has more silks upon it. The peg13 is specially14 made for this kind of work, and 117there are a number of grooves15 for the silks, but one with twelve spaces will perhaps answer every purpose. Wind the silks upon it in the usual way, and tie up in groups of three according to the customary mode. Let each knot (which forms a stop to the weft) be in a line, thus—? and have nine of the silks placed in position as shown in the illustration.[12] Take first a piece of straight hair of the same colour as the curls, and about twelve inches long, and draw out what is best described as a coarse weft. This has to be plaited, as it were, upon all the silks employed in making the “front.” Hold the root end between the thumb and finger of the left hand, having the long hair uppermost. Commence by placing it at the back of the lower silk, and draw it through. Then over two, under (or behind) three, over two and behind the top one. Continue in the same fashion downwards16, but reversing the movement until the whole of the hair is worked up. Plait tight; but it can be made close and firm by pulling the hair as frequently as possible to get it into shape. (See the ends and centre of the next engraving17.) Having thus worked the hair, finish off at the lower three silks by drawing the ends towards you, and leave it so for the present. Take three-quarters of an ounce, or an ounce of twelve-inch ringlet hair, and divide into two equal parts, bearing in mind that the curls have to be separated 118and classed together, and also that curls should always turn to the face, as I have repeatedly stated. Place the proper portion into the drawing brushes, and weave five inches of moderately fine close weft upon the three lower silks. Next make four inches and three-quarters of the same description of weft upon the three middle silks, leaving a quarter of an inch space between the end of the plait and the weft; the reason for doing so will presently appear. Now weave five inches of the same kind of weft upon the three top silks, and the end of each row must be regular. Draw off another coarse strand18 of the straight hair, and plait all the silks together as before. Three rows of weft are now to be done exactly the same, leaving the quarter of an inch space at the corresponding end; then take a third strand of straight hair and make a finishing plait as at the beginning. The whole length of the “front” should be eleven inches, including the plaited ends, and centre piece. The above illustration is so plain that no mistake can possibly arise if proper attention 119be given to the subject. Comb out the hair as each row is completed, and form into curls. Now warm a pair of pinching irons, press each section of the weft, and carefully remove with the scissors all superfluous19 ends and hairs. Cut the centre silk of each group of three, finish off securely and then cut down. I said just now that the reason for leaving the space at the ends of the middle row of weft would shortly appear, and you are now to take hold of those three silks and pull them. Do so at each end, the result will be to shorten the centre row; thus enabling you, with the help of springs, to form the mount as designed.[13] Make two springs, file down the ends, cover with kid or parchment, and sew them up in narrow galloon. Stitch the sides nicely, and fix them to each row of weft by means of a needle and silk. The springs 120may be about two inches long, and, of course, must be put on carefully. Strings20 of galloon are to be affixed22, and so far as the making is concerned, the job is finished.
It is now to be placed upon a block, pressed and dressed as indicated in the wood-cut (p. 119). The number of curls is immaterial, for the hair may be arranged in three upon each side, or there might be as many as a dozen.
In addition to the kind just described, there is another way of proceeding24 so as to introduce a patent silk, or skin parting. These fronts can be made very light, and seeing that there is no net and but little galloon, ventilation does not suffer impediment. Proceed as follows:—Set up the weaving frame as shown in Fig25. 21, but instead of nine silks there are now to be twelve. Tie them in threes as before, and intertwine a piece of straight, twelve-inch hair according to the following directions:—Hold the root end, pointing downwards, firmly between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and also the lower silk. Push the long hair through, pass two silks, and bring the hair to the front again. Then pass three, push the hair through, and pass three more, draw it forward, pass two, and over the top one. The hair plait (for plait it is) is now to be continued downwards, but the movements are to be reversed. I will describe this in another way. Say that you are holding the hair in the manner set forth26 above, together with the 121first lowest silk—now—over one, under two, over three, under three, over two, under one, and over the top, reversing the order of plaiting up and down till the length of hair is all used. You must “man?uvre” or work it a little, so as to get it tight, firm, and regular, and fasten off as previously27 instructed. Take three-quarters of an ounce, or an ounce, of ringlet hair of the required length, say ten or twelve inches. Separate the curls, putting all those which turn one way together, and do the same with the other lot. Bear in mind that curls should always turn to the face. Weigh the two portions, so that you may have an equal quantity of hair to work with. Make four inches and three-quarters of weft on the lower silks; four-and-a-half inches of weft on the next group; a like quantity on the group above, and five-and-a-quarter inches of weft upon the top. There is to be a vacancy28 of a quarter of an inch (near the plait) in the second and third rows, and this will explain why they differ from the lower one. As there is to be a patent parting, a space of an inch and a-half (but this depends upon the width of the parting) must be left in the centre to which you have now arrived; the top row forming an exception, and that is to be woven right along, without any break whatever.
Commence weaving in the order just described upon the other side, leaving the quarter-inch spaces at the ends of the second and third rows 122as before. Complete the weaving of the top row; see that the weft joins properly in the middle, because all should be uniform and regular. Make a corresponding plait to that which you did at the beginning; pinch the weft with warm irons; fasten off securely, and cut down.
It has now to be mounted. Take a clean wig29-block—there are two kinds, let me observe, “mounting” blocks and “combing” blocks—but it is to the former that I am alluding30. Partings vary in depth, but the front here pourtrayed is four inches deep, and I will assume that you are going to make a similar one. Have some ribbon the full width of the parting (after the edges of the latter are tacked), and cut off five inches. Turn up the lower edge of the ribbon and lay the smooth surface upon the block, exactly in the centre, and just where the front should be worn when upon the head. Drive two points into the block, at short but 123equal distances from each other; take a needle and cotton, single, tie a knot, and “fasten on” to a point: pass the needle through one corner of the ribbon, and secure the cotton to the point below. Proceed in the same way with the other corner. Turn the block round, bend up the end of the ribbon as before, and secure the corners by means of basting31 stitches in a like manner. Remember, that in weaving I directed quarter-inch spaces to be left at both ends of the two inner rows of weft. Now draw the silks out a quarter of an inch so as to bring the weft close to the plait, for by this movement you will be enabled to spread out the top and bottom rows to the ends of the springs, while the centre rows are tightened32 and nearly straight, as they should be. Next sew the strings on to the plaited ends; make two springs, each a full quarter of an inch deeper than the parting; cover as previously instructed, and fix in their appointed places. (Fig. 24 clearly pourtrays all that is here described.) The two middle rows of weft need not be sewn to them yet. Now place all upon the block, get the mounted ribbon exactly in the middle, take hold of the strings, pull tight and drive a point through them at the back, in the place where they should be tied by the wearer. Arrange so as to keep the top row of hair out of the way; let the lower silks be a quarter of an inch above the place where the parting touches the forehead, and fix all in their 124respective positions by means of a needle and silk. Secure the two middle rows of weft to the springs in the same way. Now to affix21 the parting. Turn in the edges of the silk or skin upon which the parting is worked, and “tack” them in such a manner that the lowest portion (being the most important) is turned up last. The parting is now to be sewn neatly34 to the ribbon, commencing at the bottom; both should exactly fit, and, what is most important, only the parting is to be seen where it touches the brow.
The pressing iron can now be used, the curls—be they many or few—arranged, a pair of side-combs placed in position if desired, and the front is finished, as above shown.
There are other fronts with ringlet curls beside those just described. For instance, there is a mounted front of a diamond shape, which is made to slide, technically35 called a “diamond” front. It 125is made as follows: cut off two pieces of galloon about eight or nine inches in length each. Sew the ends (through and through, not over and over) neat and firm; these are for the two sides. Place one of them upon a block, in the position it is intended to be worn. The ends of the galloon (where it has been sewn) must be uppermost at any place except a corner. Open the ends and hammer slightly, so as to make them lie as flat as possible. Take four points, and spread out the galloon in a diamond shape, so that it will be about two inches deep, and perhaps four inches long. Now take your needle and cotton, points, &c., and baste36 out in the required form; the upper and lower bastings (where the springs go) to be somewhat pointed33; the ends are to be square, equal to the width of the galloon forming the strings. Make another mounting on the corresponding side of the block, and both must be alike in every particular. Upon the block (between the right and left sides of the mountings) a space of two inches or more should be left, because the wearer’s own hair must be seen when the curls are worn. Bear in mind this is to be a sliding front, and the lady will be able to adjust the curls to her own wishes or taste. Now, the two sides being in their proper positions, and firmly secured by means of the basting stitches, sew a piece of galloon on one side only from one end to the other; the reason for doing so will presently be given. Cut off 126sufficient galloon for the strings, and this must be long enough to encircle the head, leaving plenty to tie in a double bow as well. Find the centre of the galloon, and temporarily fasten it with a point between the mounts. One of these strings is to be continued along the mount, corresponding with that upon which a piece of galloon has been sewn, the remainder being fastened by means of a point in the neck. The other half is to be abruptly37 turned back over the crown, and temporarily secured to keep it out of the way. Measure off two springs, grind the ends, cover with narrow galloon as previously instructed, and fix in their respective places. Put on the net; sew it to the inner edges of the mount only, and to both sides of the centre galloons and springs. The mountings are now ready for the hair.
Take sufficient hair, say one ounce of twelve-inch ringlet, and divide it equally. Weave a top row first, and ordinary front weft with the remainder. Do the same with the second lot of hair. Remember what I have said before—“All curls should turn to the face.” Sew on the weft, beginning at the bottom of the lower galloon, turn the corners neatly; let the weft appear in regular rows, and, lastly, sew on the top row. Comb out the hair and curl it over the fingers in proper form before doing the other side, which, when done, is to be treated in a similar manner. Warm your pressing iron, divide the weft in conveniently small portions, and press carefully. 127Take the mountings off the block, and now I will give my reason for sewing on the first piece of galloon, namely, because this is the mounting intended to slide. Cut off another piece of galloon an inch longer than appears to be necessary. Turn in about half an inch at one end, and sew the corners securely to one of the ends of the mount. Neatly stitch the edge of this piece of galloon to the edge of that which is attached to the mount, but before fastening off, turn in the free end as you did at the beginning. Sew along the other edge of the galloon as before, and secure the stitches. Now there is a hollow space for the string to travel through, and a bodkin is the necessary instrument for leading it in the first instance. replace the front upon the block, dress and arrange the curls as required.
Wing Fronts are made in a similar way, but instead of being of a diamond form they are shaped like birds’ wings; the narrow end, of course, towards the upper part of the head, and the broad part near the ears. Mounts of this shape are very pretty, the curls lie nicely together, and, furthermore, they are easy to wear.
Bandeaux, or as they are more generally termed, “bands,” embrace a variety of designs to suit different requirements. Some are made plain with a patent parting of silk or skin; others have net, gauze, or human hair foundations, and latterly a material called “Yak-hair” has been used, which answers the same purpose, and is 128less expensive. Then, again, there are bandeaux with waved hair or waved hair and “fringes,” while others have long hair attached for combing in with the natural hair at the back. Indeed, this branch of the business offers a wide field for the display of taste, judgment38, and ability. The hair used to be “banded” and then secured at or near the end of the mount, and dressing2 “bands” and “fronts” in the days of my apprenticeship39 was a continual source of employment and profit. The hair, at the time I speak of, was generally worn smooth, oils and pomades were in request, and rough hairdressing, it was thought, showed want of skill on the part of the hairdresser. But styles are ever-changing, and what is approved to-day will, perhaps, be condemned40 to-morrow. From smooth hairdressing we come to that which is dry, wavy41, frizzy and crisp, and I am disposed to think that ladies sometimes imagine a coiffure should present a rough appearance to obtain approval. This loose method of arranging the hair is to the advantage of bandeaux, and coverings for bald places, because the false piece can be more easily arranged by the wearer.
To make a plain bandeau, take a yard and a-half of galloon, measure ten inches from one of the ends but do not cut it off. Turn it back and give it two or three raps with the hammer so as to make a mark. Keep the galloon even and smooth, and turn back another ten inches at the other end; both of which are to be brought together. The ends are to be turned in, and stitched over and over. Double these sewn pieces exactly in the centre, and tap with the hammer again. Open out, and you will find that a mount of between nine and ten inches is begun. Now take a mounting block, which should be clean and smooth, and place the galloon thereon. The centre of the mount has already been found, and after opening it (say) two inches, temporarily fix by means of points in the centre of the block. There is no difficulty about this because a fine line marks the place, and I need scarcely say the mount should be on the block exactly as it is intended to be worn on the head. With the block in your lap (the face being turned inwards) take the galloon in each hand, pull tight, double one piece over the other, and drive a point through both at the back of the neck. Hammer it down firmly, and then fix the remainder of the galloon, which I need hardly say 130is intended for the strings, as you think proper, so long as they are out of your way. I will now suppose that you are going to make a three-inch silk or skin patent parting band, therefore you must commence with basting the lower galloon first, and then the top one, drawing it back at the same time, so as to give the necessary depth. Indeed, if you make it a rule to give a quarter of an inch more depth than the parting, it will be, I think, all the better. Next draw back the lower centre, and form a pretty curve, the object being to keep the galloon out of the way lest it be seen in the most critical part of your work, and, further, that the parting should lie upon the forehead both flat and close. Having done basting, the next thing is to put on the springs. Break two pieces of watch spring the proper length; the ends of which are to be rounded off and covered with kid or parchment, afterwards neatly enclosing the springs in galloon. They should have just sufficient bend to easily fit the head, and assist in holding the parting in position. A reference to the engraving will illustrate4 all that I have endeavoured to explain.[14]
Having well secured the mount which, let me say, should always be tight and firm upon the block, take a piece of ribbon, exactly the width of the centre between the springs, and sew thereon, the object of this being to give a neat appearance to the band when off the block, and, also, to conceal42 131the work in the parting which otherwise could be seen. The net should next be attached, as directed in previous instructions, and then the mount will be completed.
In addition to the parting, take an ounce of the best hair (say) sixteen inches long (the hair in the parting being of the same length), and weave a top row. Weave the remainder of the hair in rather fine front weft, and then divide, marking the division, however, by merely tying a piece of string in the place. The parting should next be dealt with; turn in the edges as previously directed, “tacking” as you proceed, and finishing with the lower portion. Sew the parting in its proper position, beginning with the two corners in front; it will then be as well to sew it at the top, and afterwards the sides. The parting should be straight, and exactly in the centre; perfectly43 132smooth, and not stretched or puckered44 in any direction. The weft must be sewn on next, but should there be a rather wide space between the parting and the top edge of the galloon, put in two or three rows of weft first. Sew the weft along the bottom and top edge of the galloon and then at regular intervals45 until one side is completed. Do the same with the other side, and, finally, put on the top row.
The number of rows will, of course, depend upon the quantity of weft, of which you must be the judge, and calculate accordingly. Press, tie the hair of each side together or loosely plait in three, leaving the wearer to arrange it when upon the head.
What I have already said is sufficient to show the learner how to make a “band” with a parting of either silk or skin, or any other similar substance. Indeed, when a “band” has to be produced for a very low price, it can be made without a patent parting at all, as the parting can be made to consist of weft only. To do this, the springs need not be so wide apart, and the intervening space is to be filled up with weft, sewn close, one row after the other, beginning at the bottom. If the weft is well done and fine, it will lie flat, then, with the comb, a parting should be made, and pressed into shape. True, the wearer cannot show the parting, but such work is designed for elderly ladies, and the cap border, or other head-gear hides it completely. Partings are generally used, however, and I merely allude to this very plain way of making a “band” 133to suit humble46 and, necessarily, economical customers.
For making a Waved Bandeau, with fringe, turn to the instructions for mounting already given, and notice the mount upon the block. A mount of a similar description is to be made, but without the arched piece of galloon in the centre, for the parting being of a transparent47 material, the skin of the head should be seen through it. Besides, a dark line of galloon just in the most conspicuous48 spot would be sadly out of order.
Proceed as follows: Take a clean block, and mark with a pencil the exact dimensions of the mount, in its proper place. Be very particular about this, because the pencilled lines you should strictly49 adhere to. These lines, then, having been made, commence by driving a point through the end of the galloon near the crown, and on your right side as the tracing faces you. Continue the galloon down to the angle upon the forehead where the spring goes, and fix with a point. Keep the galloon flat, and turn it towards the ear where it is also to be secured. Pass the galloon along the top, and when in the centre of the block (being mindful of the depth of the parting) drive in another point. For the other side continue the galloon as before, and end on the top of the block in a corresponding position to that where it begins. The mount should then resemble the illustration to which your attention is directed (Fig. 26), but 134with this difference—the centre arched portion of the galloon is absent.
The galloon is now to be “basted,” and preceding instructions observed. The mount being tight and firm, the strings are to be neatly sewn on, fixed23 in the neck, and the long ends put out of the way as before. It is now seen that there is a gap in the centre, and unless some kind of stay is put at the lower part, the parting will, in all probability, soon get torn. To obviate50 this, it is usual to employ a material called “silk-worm gut,” which is securely fastened across the bottom, or nearly at the bottom, for the parting should be so arranged as to lie flat on the forehead—the closer it lies the better. Sometimes a white horse hair is used for the purpose, and occasionally white silk, but whatever the material, it should be strong and durable51. It is usual, also, to put additional “stays” about an inch apart, right along the parting, for they are not seen upon the head, and much greater strength is given to the article. Indeed, when the parting is more than three inches deep it is absolutely necessary to do so.
Put on the springs as before, let them be narrow, and in this instance they may be covered with black tape, as the galloon upon which they will be sewn conceals52 them from view when off the block. Now attach the net, and the mounting is completed.
A mount, let me observe, should be accurately53 designed, and measurements taken from any convenient place upon the block must correspond, one 135side with the other. Indeed, where much board-work is done, it is a strong recommendation to be a good “mounter,” and a correct eye is not among the least of such a man’s qualifications. It matters not how well done the knotting, weaving, or sewing may be; should the mount be inexact, the work is faulty from the very commencement, and might result in the article being returned. This is best avoided. Therefore, make it a rule to “start fair” with your work, and, if slow, be sure, remembering at all times that “practice makes perfect,” and how important it is that strict attention should be paid to minute details.
The mount having been finished, the next thing is to put in a transparent parting, with a “fringe.” This “fringe” should be of short, curled hair, which can be arranged when the job is finished. In transparent partings generally there are no edges to turn up, like those made of silk or skin, and alluded54 to before. Commence by sewing the parting to the corner of the mount on your right hand first, finish off, and then attach it to the corresponding corner on the left side, keeping the line of parting exactly in the middle. It will then be proper to sew the top; see that it is firm, straight, and smooth, and conclude by stitching the sides. About the same length and quantity of hair will be required for this as was used in the previous one; therefore, weave a top row, divide the weft, and proceed according to the instructions already given. Sew the weft on in 136rows, beginning at the bottom; neatly and securely turn the corners; and, lastly, affix the top row. Press, and dress as required; take it off the block, draw out the basting stitches, and the work is done, unless you wish to give a waviness55 to the hair.
Of course the hair can be left straight if desired, but if waved (it need not be very strong), the effect is much more natural. Put the band on the block again, and the hair can be waved in either of the following ways:—(1) By plaiting. Slightly damp the hair, and make two or more three-plaits upon each side. Plait rather tight, and pinch with moderately warm irons, but only sufficient to remove the moisture, if any, and to fix the wave. This, perhaps, is the most simple and natural way of doing it. (2) With hair-pins. Divide the side-hair in two or three equal portions, so as to make the wave regular and uniform. Take a long 137hair-pin, and with the left hand hold it close to the roots of one of the pieces, keeping the prongs rather wide apart. Then, with the right hand, entwine the piece of hair in and out, as though forming with it any number of figures 8. Having come to the ends (or done as much as you consider necessary), push up close to the head of the pin, turning back one of the points to keep the hair well in place. Do the same with all; pinch with warm irons, and allow it to be quite cold before drawing out the pins. (3) Curling-irons are used also for waving the hair, but, although permissible56 when dressing a lady’s hair, I do not advise their use for work of this description. There are other methods of waving hair, as with string, card, wire, etc., but what I have described, if carefully done, will answer nearly all requirements.
Temple-Mounted Fronts.—Measure off twenty-three inches of galloon, double it, and stitch at 138the ends through and through. Shift the ends a little, so that they will come anywhere but where basting stitches are likely to be put. Now double the galloon again, tap it with the hammer, open it, and you will find that you have made two creases57. Put these creases upon the line which marks the centre of the block, and fix them with points to about the depth of the parting. Take other points and bring the mount into shape. You will now require a rule, or tape measure, a pair of compasses, and a large double-threaded needle, to enable you to make correct measurements. You can measure from any convenient spot, but when the strings are on, they should be so adjusted that, when off the block and tightened, the mount will incline inwards both at top and bottom, thus proving that it will bind58, or fit well to the head. The shape is well defined in the illustration,[15] and the places where basting stitches are to be put distinctly shown. Springs are made and fixed on the top about the width of the parting, the intervening space being filled up with a piece of ribbon. A spring is also placed on each side near the ear, so as to keep the mount well in shape, and the strings, as will be seen, are made to cross over from the bottom galloon to the top. The trained eye will perceive at a glance how comfortable this shaped mount is likely to be to the wearer.
Having sewn on the net, commencing, as usual, upon the inner edge of the lower galloon, the next 139thing is to put in the parting, which should be either skin or silk—but if transparent a deviation59 will have to be made as already explained. The same remark applies as to whether the hair should be knotted or woven. These matters must always be decided60 upon at first, when the mount is commenced. Take (say) 1? oz. of twelve-inch ringlet hair, and put the curls in two lots as usual. Weigh one parcel against the other, and balance evenly. Remember what I have said about the curls inclining to the face. Make a thin top row, comb out, and cut down. Weave the hair in fine front weft, and contrive61 to make it of a similar length for both sides. Commence sewing on at or near the string, and proceed as before instructed. In stitching on the weft be careful to well secure the net, and the spaces must be according to the length of the weft used—certainly they should not be so much as a quarter of an inch apart. Let both sides be uniform and alike in every respect. Press and dress as required, and retain the hair in position by means of side-combs. If, at the outset, it is decided to “knot” the hair, then the mount should be prepared accordingly, respecting which I have given instructions in another place.[16]
Fillets (or Cauls).—A fillet signifies a little band intended to tie about the hair; and a caul (probably a modification62 of cowl) intimates, in trade parlance63, a net or some such covering for the head. But that which I am going to describe 140is probably unknown to many, although it was formerly64 adopted by elderly women instead of a wig. This can be accounted for in two or three ways. (1) Because at the time I speak of “fronts” were generally worn; (2) ladies’ wigs65 were heavy and expensive, and (3) a fillet or caul, being much cheaper, well answered the purpose. Indeed, where the necessity exists for wearing a head covering, through loss of hair, or other causes, perhaps a fillet would be most acceptable to many in want of some such assistance. Proceed as follows: Measure the head, and use a mounting-block about one inch larger in size. Put on any shaped mount you please so long as it is adapted to the purpose, and suits the requirement of the lady for whom it is intended. In place of strings use a piece of wide galloon which is neatly attached to the mount, and fits comfortably round the head. The galloon may be half an inch or more in width, or a mount can be made in the neck (extending from ear to ear) resembling that portion of a lady’s wig. Having the mount, springs, and wide galloon in position, you have next to obtain a silk net, and put it on to the block, covering the entire mount and neck-piece as well.[17] The meshes66 of the net should not be too open, because the weft has to be sewn upon 141a part of it. I need hardly observe that no portion of the net must be allowed to project over the lower edges of the galloon and mount. The hair is now to be divided as before; a top-row woven, and good front, or “twice-in” weft made. Bear in mind that instead of sewing it along the lower galloon, and turning at the parting and strings, it is now to be sewn from bottom to top; in other words—begin sewing on the weft where the wide galloon joins; let the hair incline or fall over the ear, and, as I said just now, sew the weft from bottom to top, turning each row upon the lower and upper galloon. The reason is, that as the meshes are much more open than in the ordinary description of net, the rows of weft ought to be shortened so as to give additional strength. Having finished the front part, attention must now be directed to the back, or rather that portion which fits in the neck and extends from ear to ear. Have ready (say) half an ounce of “Sevigny,” or “doll” hair. This is tight curled hair of about four or five inches in length—the same in fact as that used in making “fringes.” Weave very fine, and sew on to the wide galloon, turning at each end of it. The long and short hair will thus meet near the front of the ear, where the joining must be neat.
If the hair is to be worn either plain or wavy 142and banded, of course hair (say) of sixteen inches in length should be used, but if in curls, probably ten or twelve-inch hair will be sufficient. Dress as required. The short-curled hair (after the work is pressed) can be arranged in small ring curls, or in the manner of a close fringe.
Remember, I said that a block somewhat larger than the head was to be used, and the reason is plain. The fillet is sure to be large enough, and this will allow for shrinking; besides, there is to be an elastic67 spring put in the neck which must be done so as to grip or bind the head properly. If these details are carefully attended to, the fillet will fit “like a glove,” be a source of comfort to the wearer, and a credit to the maker68. How an elastic spring is to be placed and held in position will appear in due course.
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| adj.(爱情或友谊上)易变的，不坚定的 | |
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dressing
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| n.(食物)调料；包扎伤口的用品，敷料 | |
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perusal
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| n.细读，熟读；目测 | |
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illustrate
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| v.举例说明，阐明；图解，加插图 | |
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illustrated
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| adj. 有插图的，列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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tapered
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| adj. 锥形的，尖削的，楔形的，渐缩的，斜的 动词taper的过去式和过去分词 | |
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allude
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| v.提及，暗指 | |
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uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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proficient
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| adj.熟练的，精通的；n.能手，专家 | |
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rudiments
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| n.基础知识，入门 | |
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skilful
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| (=skillful)adj.灵巧的，熟练的 | |
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peg
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| n.木栓，木钉；vt.用木钉钉，用短桩固定 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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grooves
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| n.沟( groove的名词复数 )；槽；老一套；（某种）音乐节奏v.沟( groove的第三人称单数 )；槽；老一套；（某种）音乐节奏 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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engraving
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| n.版画；雕刻（作品）；雕刻艺术；镌版术v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的现在分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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strand
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| vt.使（船）搁浅，使（某人）困于（某地） | |
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superfluous
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| adj.过多的，过剩的，多余的 | |
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strings
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| n.弦 | |
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affix
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| n.附件，附录 vt.附贴，盖(章)，签署 | |
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affixed
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| adj.[医]附着的，附着的v.附加( affix的过去式和过去分词 )；粘贴；加以；盖（印章） | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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fig
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| n.无花果(树) | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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vacancy
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| n.（旅馆的）空位，空房，（职务的）空缺 | |
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wig
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| n.假发 | |
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alluding
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| 提及，暗指( allude的现在分词 ) | |
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basting
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| n.疏缝；疏缝的针脚；疏缝用线；涂油v.打( baste的现在分词 )；粗缝；痛斥；（烤肉等时）往上抹[浇]油 | |
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tightened
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| 收紧( tighten的过去式和过去分词 )； （使）变紧； （使）绷紧； 加紧 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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technically
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| adv.专门地，技术上地 | |
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baste
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| v.殴打，公开责骂 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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apprenticeship
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| n.学徒身份；学徒期 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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wavy
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| adj.有波浪的，多浪的，波浪状的，波动的，不稳定的 | |
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conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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puckered
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| v.（使某物）起褶子或皱纹( pucker的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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obviate
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| v.除去，排除，避免，预防 | |
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durable
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| adj.持久的，耐久的 | |
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conceals
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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54
alluded
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| 提及，暗指( allude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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55
waviness
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| n.起浪，成波浪形，动摇；波度 | |
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permissible
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| adj.可允许的，许可的 | |
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creases
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| （使…）起折痕，弄皱( crease的第三人称单数 )； （皮肤）皱起，使起皱纹 | |
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bind
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| vt.捆，包扎；装订；约束；使凝固；vi.变硬 | |
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deviation
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| n.背离，偏离；偏差，偏向；离题 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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contrive
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| vt.谋划，策划；设法做到；设计，想出 | |
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modification
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| n.修改，改进，缓和，减轻 | |
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parlance
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| n.说法；语调 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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wigs
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| n.假发，法官帽( wig的名词复数 ) | |
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meshes
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| 网孔( mesh的名词复数 )； 网状物； 陷阱； 困境 | |
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elastic
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| n.橡皮圈，松紧带；adj.有弹性的；灵活的 | |
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maker
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| n.制造者，制造商 | |
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