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CHAPTER XIV.
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 The use of Leather Rollers in Curling Hair—Papering and Pinching Hair with the same object in view—Plaiting Hair (for Coiffures)—Of Razors, Razor Setting, and Razor Strops—Miscellaneous Recipes.
 
 
esides the preparation of hair for making it into twists, curls, bandeaux, scalps, wigs1, etc., there are many other things to be done with care and attention, and “Board-work” will not be complete without some allusion2 being made to them. For instance, there is the curling of hair with leathern rollers. These rollers are smooth, soft, round, and well adapted to the purpose. They make a nice curl if properly manipulated, do not break the hair, and only the application of a little warmth is necessary. For ringlet hair nothing can be better, no matter whether it be real or false. Next to the employment of rollers, is the process of papering and pinching the hair. A dexterous3 workman experiences no difficulty whatever in rolling up a thin strip of hair (no matter whether it be long or short) with his thumb and finger, and wrapping the usual three-cornered curl paper around it. But a curling-peg is more generally employed. This is a round 221piece of hard wood about six inches long, perfectly4 smooth, with one end much thinner than the other. The reason is—should the hair be short, or a tight curl required, the small end must be used, but if the hair be long, and a full, round, curl wanted, then the thicker portion has to be employed. The curl is made by rolling it round and round the “peg” (beginning at the points and ending at the roots), and keeping it as flat as possible all the time. Then hold the curled portion securely between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, withdraw the “peg,” and place the curl within the three-cornered paper aforesaid, screwing up the ends to make all secure. When this is done, the curl should feel perfectly round within the paper, the centre being equally as well formed but hollow. Bear in mind what I have so frequently said before, that all curls should turn to the face. Only a medium quantity of hair is to be taken for each curl, and all ought to be about the same size. The curls are next to be “pinched,” and, for this purpose, pinching irons are brought into requisition. If the hair be somewhat new, and of good quality, the less heat that is applied5 the better, but should it be otherwise much warmth and pressure is necessary. Old hairdressers can recollect6 when the fronts and curls which came to be re-dressed had to be baked (they were so numerous), and how trouble was caused sometimes, through their being “overdone7.”
222The papering should be done in regular order, and all quite cold before the papers are removed. For dressing8, a little oil (not pomade) should be used, and the curls—if long or short ringlets—formed with the aid of a curl-stick or cold curling irons. True, they can be formed with the fingers, but the other method I consider best. Short, round curls, of course must be made with the fingers after a little frizzing, but these operations are difficult to explain in writing—they want practical illustration, which, now that we have societies and schools, is easily obtainable.
Concerning the beautiful art of plaiting hair for ladies’ coiffures, the reader is informed that copious9 instructions are already given in my “Lessons in Hairdressing,” and to that work he is respectfully referred.
Of razors and razor-sharpening much might be said, both as regards the instrument itself, as well as the proper mode of keeping it in order. Every hairdresser and barber knows when he is in possession of a good razor, and undoubtedly10 takes proper care of it. He is to be commended for this, as he simply follows the course adopted by those in other walks in life. Whether the old-fashioned description of razor is better or worse than the more modern “hollow-ground” I will not discuss, believing that a great deal depends upon the shaver, the nature of the beard, and the conditions under which the shaving operation is performed. Good practice in a barber’s shop is 223the best school in the world for imparting a knowledge of easy shaving; while ordinary intelligence combined with shrewd observation, will go far towards making one a master of his art.
“It appears,” observes a writer[32] on the subject, “that the choice of a razor may quite as well be left to the makers11, as determined12 by the purchaser; however, it sometimes happens, that, exclusive of its goodness, the weight, the poise13, &c., of a razor, are circumstances which seem to claim acquaintance with particular hands; and, with regard to these, every one will do well to suit himself.
“I have lately ventured, notwithstanding the long-established notion that weight is a very requisite14 property in a razor, to recommend those which were deficient15 in this respect; and I will embrace this opportunity to offer the reasons which influenced my judgment16 on the subject.
“It does not appear, upon considering by what means a razor acts, that its ponderosity17 can assist in the operation; the performance depending upon the condition of the edge, abstractedly from its weight; momentum18 can assist only where force is requisite; thus, in dividing a tough piece of wood, we find that the edge of a knife, however keen, cannot make its way; it becomes necessary, therefore, to use some instrument of more weight, which, being applied by an accelerated action of 224the arm, becomes equal to the task. The weight of all cutting instruments should be adapted according to the nature of their acting19; and if the beard required to be hewn, or chopped off, doubtless, a hatchet20, with a sharp edge, would answer the purpose better than a razor; on the contrary, if the beard can be erased21 by an unforced incision22, which is certainly the case, an instrument of no considerable weight, with a proper edge, will always deserve the preference; for the hand, having nothing to overcome in point of weight, performs with more exactness and ease, than it possibly can, when feeling the oppression of weight in the instrument it has to manage.”
As regards hollow-ground razors much can be said in their favour, and many in the trade consider them to be the best, but of this each man must judge for himself. I think that much depends on fancy, and what we are accustomed to, as well as to the mode of treatment. Sometimes it is requisite to put a long-used razor by for a time so as to restore its edge, and the following observations anent “Tired Razors” are à propos of the subject:—Barbers often assert that razors get “tired” of shaving, and that they will work satisfactorily if permitted to rest for a time. It has been found by microscopic23 examination that the “tired” razor, from long stropping by the same hand, and in the same direction, has the ultimate fibres of its surface or edge all arranged in one direction, like the edge of a piece of cut 225velvet; but after a month’s rest the fibres rearrange themselves heterogeneously24, crossing each other, and presenting a saw-like edge, each fibre supporting its fellow, and hence cutting the beard instead of being forced down flat without cutting.
Razor-setting cannot well be taught—it must, (like tuning25 a violin)—be acquired. Some persons are unable to set a razor with any degree of certainty, while others become recognised as clever in that branch of the business. The quality of the hone is an important consideration in razor-setting; it should neither be too hard nor too soft. The razor has to be rubbed from heel to point in the usual way, and always turned on the back. The edge should be tried from time to time upon the thumb or finger-nail, until it feels quite smooth and keen, it is then to be fixed26 or “set.” This is effected by passing the razor to and fro, as lightly as possible and with single strokes upon the hone. Do this for a short time until the edge “bites” the nail as it were, when the setting is completed. Should it not do so, the assumption is that the setting has not gone far enough; the other extreme being when the edge is wiry, and then the setting is overdone. In either case the job is not satisfactory, as the razor is “not in tune,” and will quickly require to be set again.
Stropping assists greatly in fixing the edge of a razor, and perhaps I cannot do better than quote what Mr. Savigny says upon the subject:—
“In strapping27 a razor, it is necessary to observe, 226that the thick or hind29 part bears upon the leather at the same time the edge does: for if the back is raised, the hand loses its only guide; in which case it could not fail of receiving some injury; but if the razor is applied flat, and the strap28 a proper one, ten or twelve strokes, on each side the blade, will be sufficient to give the edge its necessary refreshment30.
“I have always given directions to draw the razor downwards31, from the termination of the edge to the point; having experienced that this is the most steady manner the hand can act in; and it is an observation pretty well established, that any thing may be drawn32 to a much greater degree of exactness, than it can be shoved; and in the present case, were a razor to be pushed upwards33 along the strap, that is, from the point to the termination of the edge, there would be some danger of its turning on the rivet34, and cutting both the leather and the fingers; to be as secure as possible in this respect, it will be well to place the hold just above the rivet, grasping at the same time the handle, and that part of the blade which issues from it.
“The manner in which a proper strap acts upon a razor must necessarily form an edge most suitable for the purpose, as it neither wears it so fast as the hone, nor confines its effects entirely35 to a flat; by the gentle manner in which it operates, and being in some measure yielding to pressure, it cannot leave that roughness upon the edge, which 227the hone, on account of its quickness, and the solidity of its surface, is commonly found to produce.”
There cannot be two opinions regarding the importance of a good strop, and its being kept in proper condition, if the edge of a razor is to be considered.
For ordinary use, I give the preference to buff leather mounted upon wood in the old style, but there should always be a layer or two of common leather or other suitable substance between; otherwise there will be a hardness which, to say the least, is not agreeable. Softness and pliability36 should always be aimed at, and, doubtless, this is why many prefer a long piece of buff securely fastened to the wall. In preparing the leather for shop use, after having cleaned and thoroughly37 dried it, saturate38 it with olive oil, and then let it be well dressed with suitable razor paste. (If the leather is intended to be affixed39 to wood, it must be glued on first and time allowed for the glue to harden.)
Canvas strops are generally recommended for hollow-ground razors, but they are specially40 prepared in Germany, with the aid of suitable machinery41. When unprepared, the canvas is exceedingly hard, and to adapt it for use, it should be filled with soft soap, the ends secured, and boiled for some length of time in a sufficient quantity of water. It is then to be pressed flat, scraped, and well rubbed with a smooth, round instrument until it becomes soft and pliable42.

THE END.


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1 wigs 53e7a1f0d49258e236f1a412f2313400     
n.假发,法官帽( wig的名词复数 )
参考例句:
  • They say that wigs will be coming in again this year. 据说今年又要流行戴假发了。 来自辞典例句
  • Frank, we needed more wigs than we thought, and we have to do some advertising. 弗兰克,因为我们需要更多的假发,而且我们还要做点广告。 来自电影对白
2 allusion CfnyW     
n.暗示,间接提示
参考例句:
  • He made an allusion to a secret plan in his speech.在讲话中他暗示有一项秘密计划。
  • She made no allusion to the incident.她没有提及那个事件。
3 dexterous Ulpzs     
adj.灵敏的;灵巧的
参考例句:
  • As people grow older they generally become less dexterous.随着年龄的增长,人通常会变得不再那么手巧。
  • The manager was dexterous in handling his staff.那位经理善于运用他属下的职员。
4 perfectly 8Mzxb     
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地
参考例句:
  • The witnesses were each perfectly certain of what they said.证人们个个对自己所说的话十分肯定。
  • Everything that we're doing is all perfectly above board.我们做的每件事情都是光明正大的。
5 applied Tz2zXA     
adj.应用的;v.应用,适用
参考例句:
  • She plans to take a course in applied linguistics.她打算学习应用语言学课程。
  • This cream is best applied to the face at night.这种乳霜最好晚上擦脸用。
6 recollect eUOxl     
v.回忆,想起,记起,忆起,记得
参考例句:
  • He tried to recollect things and drown himself in them.他极力回想过去的事情而沉浸于回忆之中。
  • She could not recollect being there.她回想不起曾经到过那儿。
7 overdone 54a8692d591ace3339fb763b91574b53     
v.做得过分( overdo的过去分词 );太夸张;把…煮得太久;(工作等)过度
参考例句:
  • The lust of men must not be overdone. 人们的欲望不该过分。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
  • The joke is overdone. 玩笑开得过火。 来自《现代英汉综合大词典》
8 dressing 1uOzJG     
n.(食物)调料;包扎伤口的用品,敷料
参考例句:
  • Don't spend such a lot of time in dressing yourself.别花那么多时间来打扮自己。
  • The children enjoy dressing up in mother's old clothes.孩子们喜欢穿上妈妈旧时的衣服玩。
9 copious koizs     
adj.丰富的,大量的
参考例句:
  • She supports her theory with copious evidences.她以大量的例证来充实自己的理论。
  • Every star is a copious source of neutrinos.每颗恒星都是丰富的中微子源。
10 undoubtedly Mfjz6l     
adv.确实地,无疑地
参考例句:
  • It is undoubtedly she who has said that.这话明明是她说的。
  • He is undoubtedly the pride of China.毫无疑问他是中国的骄傲。
11 makers 22a4efff03ac42c1785d09a48313d352     
n.制造者,制造商(maker的复数形式)
参考例句:
  • The makers of the product assured us that there had been no sacrifice of quality. 这一产品的制造商向我们保证说他们没有牺牲质量。
  • The makers are about to launch out a new product. 制造商们马上要生产一种新产品。 来自《简明英汉词典》
12 determined duszmP     
adj.坚定的;有决心的
参考例句:
  • I have determined on going to Tibet after graduation.我已决定毕业后去西藏。
  • He determined to view the rooms behind the office.他决定查看一下办公室后面的房间。
13 poise ySTz9     
vt./vi. 平衡,保持平衡;n.泰然自若,自信
参考例句:
  • She hesitated briefly but quickly regained her poise.她犹豫片刻,但很快恢复了镇静。
  • Ballet classes are important for poise and grace.芭蕾课对培养优雅的姿仪非常重要。
14 requisite 2W0xu     
adj.需要的,必不可少的;n.必需品
参考例句:
  • He hasn't got the requisite qualifications for the job.他不具备这工作所需的资格。
  • Food and air are requisite for life.食物和空气是生命的必需品。
15 deficient Cmszv     
adj.不足的,不充份的,有缺陷的
参考例句:
  • The crops are suffering from deficient rain.庄稼因雨量不足而遭受损害。
  • I always have been deficient in selfconfidence and decision.我向来缺乏自信和果断。
16 judgment e3xxC     
n.审判;判断力,识别力,看法,意见
参考例句:
  • The chairman flatters himself on his judgment of people.主席自认为他审视人比别人高明。
  • He's a man of excellent judgment.他眼力过人。
17 ponderosity 1d28f5835b54d664cdfb9dbc25aec926     
n.沉重,笨重;有质性;可称性
参考例句:
18 momentum DjZy8     
n.动力,冲力,势头;动量
参考例句:
  • We exploit the energy and momentum conservation laws in this way.我们就是这样利用能量和动量守恒定律的。
  • The law of momentum conservation could supplant Newton's third law.动量守恒定律可以取代牛顿第三定律。
19 acting czRzoc     
n.演戏,行为,假装;adj.代理的,临时的,演出用的
参考例句:
  • Ignore her,she's just acting.别理她,她只是假装的。
  • During the seventies,her acting career was in eclipse.在七十年代,她的表演生涯黯然失色。
20 hatchet Dd0zr     
n.短柄小斧;v.扼杀
参考例句:
  • I shall have to take a hatchet to that stump.我得用一把短柄斧来劈这树桩。
  • Do not remove a fly from your friend's forehead with a hatchet.别用斧头拍打朋友额头上的苍蝇。
21 erased f4adee3fff79c6ddad5b2e45f730006a     
v.擦掉( erase的过去式和过去分词 );抹去;清除
参考例句:
  • He erased the wrong answer and wrote in the right one. 他擦去了错误答案,写上了正确答案。 来自《简明英汉词典》
  • He removed the dogmatism from politics; he erased the party line. 他根除了政治中的教条主义,消除了政党界限。 来自《简明英汉词典》
22 incision w4Dy7     
n.切口,切开
参考例句:
  • The surgeon made a small incision in the patient's cornea.外科医生在病人的眼角膜上切开一个小口。
  • The technique involves making a tiny incision in the skin.这项技术需要在皮肤上切一个小口。
23 microscopic nDrxq     
adj.微小的,细微的,极小的,显微的
参考例句:
  • It's impossible to read his microscopic handwriting.不可能看清他那极小的书写字迹。
  • A plant's lungs are the microscopic pores in its leaves.植物的肺就是其叶片上微细的气孔。
24 heterogeneously d734b5bde23006d2578ec3df9027a8d9     
adj.多种多样的,混杂的;不均匀;非均匀;错杂
参考例句:
  • the heterogeneous population of the United States 由不同族裔组成的美国人口
  • There is a heterogeneous mass of papers in the teacher's office. 老师的办公室里堆满了大批不同的论文。 来自辞典例句
25 tuning 8700ed4820c703ee62c092f05901ecfc     
n.调谐,调整,调音v.调音( tune的现在分词 );调整;(给收音机、电视等)调谐;使协调
参考例句:
  • They are tuning up a plane on the flight line. 他们正在机场的飞机跑道上调试一架飞机。 来自《简明英汉词典》
  • The orchestra are tuning up. 管弦乐队在定弦。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
26 fixed JsKzzj     
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的
参考例句:
  • Have you two fixed on a date for the wedding yet?你们俩选定婚期了吗?
  • Once the aim is fixed,we should not change it arbitrarily.目标一旦确定,我们就不应该随意改变。
27 strapping strapping     
adj. 魁伟的, 身材高大健壮的 n. 皮绳或皮带的材料, 裹伤胶带, 皮鞭 动词strap的现在分词形式
参考例句:
  • He's a strapping lad—already bigger than his father. 他是一个魁梧的小伙子——已经比他父亲高了。
  • He was a tall strapping boy. 他是一个高大健壮的小伙子。
28 strap 5GhzK     
n.皮带,带子;v.用带扣住,束牢;用绷带包扎
参考例句:
  • She held onto a strap to steady herself.她抓住拉手吊带以便站稳。
  • The nurse will strap up your wound.护士会绑扎你的伤口。
29 hind Cyoya     
adj.后面的,后部的
参考例句:
  • The animal is able to stand up on its hind limbs.这种动物能够用后肢站立。
  • Don't hind her in her studies.不要在学业上扯她后腿。
30 refreshment RUIxP     
n.恢复,精神爽快,提神之事物;(复数)refreshments:点心,茶点
参考例句:
  • He needs to stop fairly often for refreshment.他须时不时地停下来喘口气。
  • A hot bath is a great refreshment after a day's work.在一天工作之后洗个热水澡真是舒畅。
31 downwards MsDxU     
adj./adv.向下的(地),下行的(地)
参考例句:
  • He lay face downwards on his bed.他脸向下伏在床上。
  • As the river flows downwards,it widens.这条河愈到下游愈宽。
32 drawn MuXzIi     
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的
参考例句:
  • All the characters in the story are drawn from life.故事中的所有人物都取材于生活。
  • Her gaze was drawn irresistibly to the scene outside.她的目光禁不住被外面的风景所吸引。
33 upwards lj5wR     
adv.向上,在更高处...以上
参考例句:
  • The trend of prices is still upwards.物价的趋向是仍在上涨。
  • The smoke rose straight upwards.烟一直向上升。
34 rivet TCazq     
n.铆钉;vt.铆接,铆牢;集中(目光或注意力)
参考例句:
  • They were taught how to bore rivet holes in the sides of ships.有人教他们如何在船的舷侧钻铆孔。
  • The rivet heads are in good condition and without abrasion.铆钉钉头状况良好,并无过度磨损。
35 entirely entirely     
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地
参考例句:
  • The fire was entirely caused by their neglect of duty. 那场火灾完全是由于他们失职而引起的。
  • His life was entirely given up to the educational work. 他的一生统统献给了教育工作。
36 pliability 7b1d8303b6d24dee63c8b84fc2399db5     
n.柔韧性;可弯性
参考例句:
  • I accorded it, deeming that I did well in showing pliability on the point. 我同意了,认为自己在这一点上表示通融是做得对的。 来自辞典例句
  • Laotse' s management thoughts have the distinctive feature of pliability. 老子管理思想具有鲜明的柔性化特征。 来自互联网
37 thoroughly sgmz0J     
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地
参考例句:
  • The soil must be thoroughly turned over before planting.一定要先把土地深翻一遍再下种。
  • The soldiers have been thoroughly instructed in the care of their weapons.士兵们都系统地接受过保护武器的训练。
38 saturate 5CczP     
vt.使湿透,浸透;使充满,使饱和
参考例句:
  • We'll saturate California with the rise in its crime rate.我们将使加利福尼亚州的犯罪案件增长率达到饱和点。
  • Saturate the meat in the mixture of oil and herbs.把肉浸泡在油和作料的卤汁里。
39 affixed 0732dcfdc852b2620b9edaa452082857     
adj.[医]附着的,附着的v.附加( affix的过去式和过去分词 );粘贴;加以;盖(印章)
参考例句:
  • The label should be firmly affixed to the package. 这张标签应该牢牢地贴在包裹上。
  • He affixed the sign to the wall. 他将标记贴到墙上。 来自《简明英汉词典》
40 specially Hviwq     
adv.特定地;特殊地;明确地
参考例句:
  • They are specially packaged so that they stack easily.它们经过特别包装以便于堆放。
  • The machine was designed specially for demolishing old buildings.这种机器是专为拆毁旧楼房而设计的。
41 machinery CAdxb     
n.(总称)机械,机器;机构
参考例句:
  • Has the machinery been put up ready for the broadcast?广播器材安装完毕了吗?
  • Machinery ought to be well maintained all the time.机器应该随时注意维护。
42 pliable ZBCyx     
adj.易受影响的;易弯的;柔顺的,易驾驭的
参考例句:
  • Willow twigs are pliable.柳条很软。
  • The finely twined baskets are made with young,pliable spruce roots.这些编织精美的篮子是用柔韧的云杉嫩树根编成的。


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