Many centuries ago, certain chieftains of the Allobroges were inspired to plant their little village of Cularo at the supremely4 strategic point of all southern Gaul. They built it a trifle to the East of the meeting place of two rivers, the Isère and the torrent5 of the Drac; north of them stretched the high, unbroken wall of the lower Alps. And there in the sheltered valley they lived and were protected against incursions of other more warlike tribes—until the great conqueror6 of the world poured its invincible7 legions over the mountain barriers, and Rome seized the little Allobrogian defence town to be a colonial outpost of considerable military importance. On the site of Cularo sprang up the strongly fortified8 Gratianopolis, thus called in honor of the Emperor Gratian who reinforced the walls begun by Diocletian and Maximian. Later, with the decline of the Roman power and the development of the Frankish nation, the Latin name was abbreviated9 to Grenoble—by which the modern city is known to-day as the chef-lieu of the department of the Isère in France.
31The town, from its birth to the end of the sixteenth century, was familiarly styled “la ville du pont,” the city of the bridge. For more than a thousand years it commanded the only point where it was possible to cross the river Isère. It was also designated “the old Roman route town,” for it lay on the natural highroad which linked Italy on the north with the country of France, the valley of the Po with that of the Rhone. The quaint10, turreted11 bridge which spanned the river in medi?val days provided passage to the Alps from French soil, and was the gateway12 to France for strangers approaching over the mountains. While its strategic position in time of war must be apparent, the site of the city was no less vital to trade and to later industrial development. As early as 1615 Grenoble was known, far and wide, as “the city of glovers.”
The earliest records of the consuls13 of Grenoble, which have been preserved almost intact since 1244, tell us only of “drapers, tailors, apothecaries15 and shoeing-smiths” in the city; and in 1489 they mention in addition sailors, pastry16 cooks, carpenters, barbers—but not glovers. Only the weavers17, tanners and curriers of wool and hemp18 presage19 the industrial future. There seems to be some question of a lone20 glover in 1328 who gave his services to the dauphin. But probably this workman made numerous things for his fellow-citizens, gloves included, and at the same time was a dealer21 in furs and perfumes. In the statutes22 of the glovers of Paris, dating from 1190, they are styled “marchands-ma?tres-gantiers-parfumeurs,” mastermerchants-of-gloves-and-perfumes, 32and are accorded the exclusive right to prepare and sell these luxuries. Furs were usually added to their stock in trade. But the solitary23 glove-maker of 1328 was in no sense a pioneer of the glove guild24 in Grenoble, else had he apprenticed26 to himself other workmen, and the town been filled with glovers fully27 a hundred years earlier than it was.
The latter part of the sixteenth century was a period of war and domestic upheaval28 for Grenoble, during which the city government was tossed back and forth29 among predatory barons30 until, in 1590, Lesdiguières, “the King of the Mountains,” took the town by siege in the name of Henry IV. Under Lesdiguières’ remarkably31 public-spirited governorship, peace returned, commerce was resumed, and natural resources, scarcely recognized before, were drawn32 upon for the development of new crafts, whose products, now for the first time, were to be exported to all parts of France and even into other countries. Among these new crafts glove-making instantly sprang into prominence33.
For the raw materials were everywhere at hand. On the slopes of the mountains, enclosing like the tiers of a vast amphitheatre the city seemingly chosen by Nature to become the mis-en-scène of the glove drama, millions of wild goats fed. Already the tanners and tawers had tested the admirable quality of their skins, and those of the females in particular were found to be of the fine, soft variety, peculiarly free from flaws, so admirably adapted to the making 33of gloves. For the process of tawing the skins, moreover, the waters of the Isère, because of their singular purity, were incomparable. And in the city itself—its population now greatly increased by prosperity and peace—lived scores of skilled artisans and their sons, well fitted for the careful cutting and shaping of gloves; while the women, equipped with three-cornered needles, quickly became adepts35 in sewing gloves by hand.
Other occupations, which now received special impetus36 in medi?val Grenoble, were the weaving of hemp textiles—for hemp was the most prolific37 crop of the alluvial38 river valleys—paper-making, and the manufacture of playing-cards; about 1630, the fruit of the vineyards on the mountain slopes, was turned into wine for exportation, and beautiful pottery39 and tiles were made of the rich clay deposits of the Drac. But of all these crafts, the one taking first rank from the very start, and the one which quickly identified itself with the town, was gloves. In the municipal acts, glovers often appear after 1606. In 1619 Claude Honoré, a master glover, was elected consul14. And in 1664 a certain skilled workman, Jean Charpel, an artist in his line, proclaims himself glover to the king.
“One sees the glovers,” observes a noted40 traveller of those times, “filling all the streets after 1610, and especially the rues41 Saint-Laurent, Perrière, Très-Clo?tre, and the suburb, together with the curriers, tanners and tawers, and the combers of hemp.”
Although most historians date the close of the Middle Ages and the beginnings of modern Europe from the era of the Protestant 34Reformation, spanning the period from 1517 to about 1560, Grenoble remained for a hundred years longer a medi?val city in every sense of the word. France continued a Catholic country, and Grenoble, sequestered43 in a southern province, scarcely felt the disquieting44 breath of the great religious revolution which was sweeping45 mid-Europe. Its ideas and its civilization changed little, even while fresh consciousness of its natural powers and material resources was impregnating the city with new industries. The spirit of craftsmanship—that joyous46 love of perfection, not only in the fine but also in the useful arts, which characterized the Renaissance—was still the ruling temper of its citizens; and the guild of glovers, the most numerous and influential47 of all the artisans, particularly personified this civic48 character. If we would gain some notion of the part glove-making actually played in the lives of these people, and the status of the glove-craft as it first appeared in medi?val Europe, we have only to journey in imagination to Grenoble in the middle of the seventeenth century, on the occasion of the great annual festival of the glovers.
It is a clear, tranquil49 morning in the latter part of July, 1650, and the sun, scarcely an hour’s march above the mountains, is flooding with almost tropic brilliancy the matchless paradise of the Dauphiné. In its confluence50 of rivers and fair valleys, the ancient capital city, Grenoble, shines in the midst of the green plain of Grésivaudan. Impossible to describe the ever-changing charm of the horizons!—as, from the city itself, the eye 35sweeps eastward51, northward52, westward53, over range upon range of snow-crowned mountains, under a sky so pure, so glowing, that distant peaks apparently54 loom55 near, and the cool breath of Alpine2 heights gently smites56 the cheek.
Eastward, the prongs, the pinnacles57, the clear-cut outlines of a sierra; it is the chain of Belledonne. From the devastation58 of its summits and terraced slopes, one divines beneath its summer cloak of verdure concealing59 only its lower descent, the adamantine rock moulded for all time by the glaciers60 of the ice age. It is indeed the advance guard of those massive crystal formations, the veritable backbone61 of the Alps, which penetrate62 into France from Mont Blanc. On a morning like this, the Swiss peak itself can be seen, cleaving63 the far-away heavens which overhang Savoy.
In the west the spectacle changes. Beyond the vast plain of the Drac appears a long, white cliff, little carved out—a rigid64 line of limestone65 falling sheer to the valley where lies Grenoble. This is the compact mass of Vercors, almost impassable. Yet, suddenly, the cliff makes way; the vale of Furon leaps through the chasm66 in the mountain wall. An ancient road, winding67 ribbonwise to westward, puts into communication the valley of the Isère with the wooded brows, the vast grassy68 hollows, of the Vercors countryside.
Northward, the limestone reappears in the Chartreuse. But these mountains, unlike Vercors, are twisted and broken, resembling a half demolished69 castle with great apertures70 and rents in its once impregnable sides. 36Their countless71 little vales and fertile levels glow with stream-fed pasturage and with billowy forests. And everywhere, among the foothills of the encircling ranges, roam herds72 of goats and cattle, without suspicion of the fate which awaits them with the coming of the great Fair of the autumn at Grenoble.
On this July morning the old town gleams like a strange jewel, set in the spacious73, lush meadow lands, stretching league on league, to the mountains. Vast gardens of hemp wave to its very walls. Vineyards veil the nearer hills, and the mulberry dots the plains of the southeast. The Isère, restless, ever seeking new outlet74, interlaces with a network of sparkling tributaries75 the great expanse of Grésivaudan. All the richness of the region, all the amazing variety and beauty with which nature has surrounded this ancient city, seems concentrated, in the early hush76 and radiance, in an act of worship.
Now the sun has penetrated77 the shadows below the city walls, and is stealing through the sinuous78, crowded streets, peculiar34 to towns which long have been cramped79 within the precincts of strong fortifications. The tiled eaves lean so close one upon another, as in some places actually to shut out the sky. If we might fly up like a bird and look down over the Grenoble of 1650, we would be gazing upon a confusion of multi-colored roofs, set at every conceivable angle of picturesqueness80, and upon a bewildering congregation of chimneys and chimney-pots. Also, we would note that the town lay on both banks of the Isère, connected by a tower bridge, and protected 37on the north by the fortress81 of the Bastille.
Down in the roughly paved rue42 Saint-Laurent the clatter82 of sabots on the stones announces that the townspeople are astir. Shutters83 are thrown open. Bursts of song herald84 the holiday. Crowds of goats, driven through the streets, are being milked at the house doors. Then, from the Cathedral of Notre Dame—whose foundations, it is said, were laid by Charlemagne—the bells proclaim with sweet solemnity the call to early mass. Out of the houses pour the people in gaily85 embroidered86 holiday dress, group joining group with merry exchange of salutations, until, trooping through the narrow streets, the colorful procession appears like a wandering rainbow threading the grey mazes87 of the old town.
House after house they pass and shop after shop, each bearing above the portal a shield emblazened with the selfsame coat-of-arms—the heraldic device of the guild of the glovers. Their occupants, gayest of the gay, fast swell88 the throng89, with masters and their families and apprentices90—the young boys in the retinues92 stealing shy glances at the pretty daughters of their masters, the maidens94 covertly95 returning their admirers’ bashful looks.
And now the multitude melts into the tender gloom of the ancient cathedral; their voices are hushed in the sweet fluting96 of the choir97. Above the heads of the kneeling populace glows the shrine98 of Saint Anne, lit with innumerable candles and smothered99 in exotic, summer flowers. For this is the 38annual fête-day of the mother of the Virgin100, the patron saint of les gantiers, revered101 by all good glovers throughout France. At Grenoble, however, the feast is observed with greater magnificence than anywhere else, for the glovers constitute by far the most numerous body, and the most prosperous, of its citizens, and theirs is the crowning festivity of the whole year.
According to monkish102 legend, the good Saint Anne made a livelihood103 while on earth by knitting gloves. “The knitting saint,” in homely104 terms of affection the people liked to call her. They were wont105 to regard her as one like themselves—only holier far, for the great honor God saw fit to confer upon her—fulfilling her simple task from day to day, the needles always busy in her fingers. Their love for her was so strong, indeed, and so enduring, that early in the nineteenth century the glovers ordered a statue of their saint set up in a public square of Grenoble, where it may be seen to-day. It represents the mother of Mary, knitting, with a half-finished glove in her hand and a basket of gloves at her feet.
Mass celebrated106, the long summer day is given over to street festivities, to feasting, dancing and pageantry. The doors of the glovers’ guild-hall, converted into a flower-adorned banqueting room, stand wide open. The glovers’ shops and houses overflow108 with hospitality. As at a great fair, popular arts and pastimes occupy the squares and spaces before the public buildings; several such distractions109 begin at once and continue simultaneously110. Mountebanks and musicians, 39folk dances, Columbines and Pierrots, flower-girls, venders of bon-bons and petits joujoux of every description, all commingle111 in a laughing, jabbering112, singing, whirling, shimmering113, merry-making throng. A wheeled street-stage, drawn by donkeys, with bells jingling114 about their necks and on their trappings, makes the rounds of the town. Wherever it stops, the gay curtains of the miniature theatre are parted to disclose the play-actors who give a medi?val burlesque115 of Don Juan, amid the noisy applause and high-pitched laughter of the onlookers116.
But the great feature of the day is the pageant107 of the glovers, in which each master, with his apprentices and family, has his special part. This takes the form of a procession of carnival117 vans, or floats, drawn by gorgeously caparisoned horses, and followed by crowds of young apprentices and workmen and workmaidens on foot, who enact118 in pantomime the various processes of glove-making as it was practiced in medi?val days. Beautiful kids and chamois from the mountains, wreathed with blossoms as though for sacrifice, are led by troops of peasant gar?ons in blue smocks. The cutters advance, rhythmically119 jingling their shears120; and the needlewomen move by more slowly, drawing their shining implements121 in perfect unison122 through the unfinished gloves they carry in their hands. A spice of rivalry123 enlivens the exhibition, for every master-glover has taken pains that his own personal retinue91 shall be as large and as brilliant as possible. Every apprentice25 is fired with the desire to so comport124 himself as to be an honor to his master—and, 40incidentally, to attract the admiration125 of the maiden93 of the house he hopes to win.
Angelus finds the merry-makers still romping126, singing, dancing; a little wearily the couples break apart, and the townsfolk once more flock through the streets, transformed in the afterglow to running rivers of gold, and are lost in the stilly dusk of the cathedral. And now the tapers127 gleam like stars upon the altar of Saint Anne, and the fading flowers send forth a sweet, benumbing perfume, as heads are bowed to receive the evening benediction128. On the rough, uneven129 stones of the floor they kneel, imploring130 in their hearts the good saint who protects and prospers131 all devout132 glovers, that the craft may wax stronger with every year in the city of Grenoble.
So we see an entire community uniting in a great religious, civic, industrial and social festival to celebrate and re-consecrate the craft of glove-making. The place of honor this calling held in former times is unique and striking. In the chapters which follow we shall observe how gloves—and especially the gloves of Grenoble—have sustained their early tradition through three hundred years of political vicissitude133 and commercial struggle.
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1
harmoniously
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| 和谐地，调和地 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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supremely
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| adv.无上地，崇高地 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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conqueror
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| n.征服者，胜利者 | |
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invincible
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| adj.不可征服的，难以制服的 | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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abbreviated
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| adj. 简短的，省略的 动词abbreviate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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turreted
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| a.(像炮塔般)旋转式的 | |
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gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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consuls
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| 领事( consul的名词复数 )； （古罗马共和国时期）执政官 （古罗马共和国及其军队的最高首长，同时共有两位，每年选举一次） | |
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consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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apothecaries
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| n.药剂师，药店( apothecary的名词复数 ) | |
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pastry
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| n.油酥面团，酥皮糕点 | |
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weavers
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| 织工，编织者( weaver的名词复数 ) | |
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hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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presage
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| n.预感，不祥感；v.预示 | |
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lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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dealer
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| n.商人，贩子 | |
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statutes
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| 成文法( statute的名词复数 )； 法令； 法规； 章程 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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guild
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| n.行会，同业公会，协会 | |
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apprentice
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| n.学徒，徒弟 | |
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apprenticed
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| 学徒，徒弟( apprentice的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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upheaval
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| n.胀起，(地壳)的隆起；剧变，动乱 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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barons
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| 男爵( baron的名词复数 )； 巨头； 大王； 大亨 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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prominence
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| n.突出；显著；杰出；重要 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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adepts
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| n.专家，能手( adept的名词复数 ) | |
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impetus
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| n.推动，促进，刺激；推动力 | |
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prolific
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| adj.丰富的，大量的；多产的，富有创造力的 | |
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alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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pottery
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| n.陶器，陶器场 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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rues
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| v.对…感到后悔( rue的第三人称单数 ) | |
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rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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sequestered
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| adj.扣押的；隐退的；幽静的；偏僻的v.使隔绝，使隔离( sequester的过去式和过去分词 )；扣押 | |
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disquieting
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| adj.令人不安的，令人不平静的v.使不安，使忧虑，使烦恼( disquiet的现在分词 ) | |
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sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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influential
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| adj.有影响的，有权势的 | |
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civic
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| adj.城市的，都市的，市民的，公民的 | |
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tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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confluence
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| n.汇合，聚集 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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loom
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| n.织布机，织机；v.隐现，(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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smites
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| v.猛打，重击，打击( smite的第三人称单数 ) | |
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pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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devastation
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| n.毁坏；荒废；极度震惊或悲伤 | |
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concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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backbone
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| n.脊骨，脊柱，骨干；刚毅，骨气 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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cleaving
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| v.劈开，剁开，割开( cleave的现在分词 ) | |
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rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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apertures
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| n.孔( aperture的名词复数 )；隙缝；（照相机的）光圈；孔径 | |
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71
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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72
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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outlet
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| n.出口/路；销路；批发商店；通风口；发泄 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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76
hush
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| int.嘘，别出声；n.沉默，静寂；v.使安静 | |
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penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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sinuous
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| adj.蜿蜒的，迂回的 | |
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cramped
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| a.狭窄的 | |
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picturesqueness
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81
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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82
clatter
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| v./n.(使)发出连续而清脆的撞击声 | |
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83
shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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84
herald
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| vt.预示...的来临，预告，宣布，欢迎 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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86
embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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87
mazes
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| 迷宫( maze的名词复数 )； 纷繁复杂的规则； 复杂难懂的细节； 迷宫图 | |
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88
swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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throng
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| n.人群，群众；v.拥挤，群集 | |
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apprentices
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| 学徒，徒弟( apprentice的名词复数 ) | |
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retinue
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| n.侍从；随员 | |
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retinues
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| n.一批随员( retinue的名词复数 ) | |
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maiden
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| n.少女，处女；adj.未婚的，纯洁的，无经验的 | |
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maidens
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| 处女( maiden的名词复数 )； 少女； 未婚女子； （板球运动）未得分的一轮投球 | |
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covertly
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| adv.偷偷摸摸地 | |
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fluting
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| 有沟槽的衣料； 吹笛子； 笛声； 刻凹槽 | |
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choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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99
smothered
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| （使）窒息， （使）透不过气( smother的过去式和过去分词 )； 覆盖； 忍住； 抑制 | |
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100
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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101
revered
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| v.崇敬，尊崇，敬畏( revere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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102
monkish
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| adj.僧侣的，修道士的，禁欲的 | |
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103
livelihood
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| n.生计，谋生之道 | |
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104
homely
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| adj.家常的，简朴的；不漂亮的 | |
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105
wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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106
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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pageant
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| n.壮观的游行；露天历史剧 | |
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108
overflow
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| v.(使)外溢，(使)溢出；溢出，流出，漫出 | |
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109
distractions
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| n.使人分心的事[人]( distraction的名词复数 )；娱乐，消遣；心烦意乱；精神错乱 | |
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110
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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111
commingle
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| v.混合 | |
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112
jabbering
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| v.急切而含混不清地说( jabber的现在分词 )；急促兴奋地说话；结结巴巴 | |
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113
shimmering
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| v.闪闪发光，发微光( shimmer的现在分词 ) | |
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114
jingling
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| 叮当声 | |
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115
burlesque
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| v.嘲弄，戏仿；n.嘲弄，取笑，滑稽模仿 | |
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116
onlookers
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| n.旁观者，观看者( onlooker的名词复数 ) | |
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117
carnival
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| n.嘉年华会，狂欢，狂欢节，巡回表演 | |
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118
enact
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| vt.制定(法律)；上演，扮演 | |
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119
rhythmically
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| adv.有节奏地 | |
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120
shears
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| n.大剪刀 | |
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121
implements
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| n.工具( implement的名词复数 )；家具；手段；[法律]履行（契约等）v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 )；执行；贯彻；使生效 | |
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122
unison
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| n.步调一致，行动一致 | |
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123
rivalry
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| n.竞争，竞赛，对抗 | |
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124
comport
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| vi.相称，适合 | |
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125
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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126
romping
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| adj.嬉戏喧闹的，乱蹦乱闹的v.嬉笑玩闹( romp的现在分词 )；（尤指在赛跑或竞选等中）轻易获胜 | |
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127
tapers
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| （长形物体的）逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 )； 微弱的光； 极细的蜡烛 | |
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128
benediction
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| n.祝福；恩赐 | |
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129
uneven
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| adj.不平坦的，不规则的，不均匀的 | |
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130
imploring
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| 恳求的，哀求的 | |
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131
prospers
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| v.成功，兴旺( prosper的第三人称单数 ) | |
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132
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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133
vicissitude
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| n.变化，变迁，荣枯，盛衰 | |
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