North America presents in its external form certain general features, which it is easy to discriminate1 at the first glance.
A sort of methodical order seems to have regulated the separation of land and water, mountains and valleys. A simple but grand arrangement is discoverable amid the confusion of objects and the prodigious2 variety of scenes.
This continent is divided, almost equally, into two vast regions, one of which is bounded, on the north by the arctic pole, and by the two great oceans on the east and west. It stretches toward the south, forming a triangle, whose irregular sides meet at length below the great lakes of Canada.
The second region begins where the other terminates, and includes all the remainder of the continent.
The one slopes gently toward the pole, the other toward the equator.
The territory comprehended in the first regions descends3 toward the north with so imperceptible a slope that it may almost be said to form a level plain. Within the bounds of this immense tract4 of country there are neither high mountains nor deep valleys. Streams meander5 through it irregularly; great rivers mix their currents, separate and meet again, disperse6 and form vast marshes7, losing all trace of their channels in the labyrinth8 of waters they have themselves created; and thus, at length, after innumerable windings9, fall into the polar seas. The great lakes which bound this first region are not walled in, like most of those in the Old World, between hills and rocks. Their banks are flat, and rise but a few feet above the level of their waters; each of them thus forming a vast bowl filled to the brim. The slightest change in the structure of the globe would cause their waters to rush either toward the pole or to the tropical sea.
The second region is more varied10 on its surface, and better suited for the habitation of man. Two long chains of mountains divide it from one extreme to the other; the Allegany ridge11 takes the form of the shores of the Atlantic ocean; the other is parallel with the Pacific.
The space which lies between these two chains of mountains contains 1,341,649 square miles.{3} Its surface is therefore about six times as great as that of France.
This vast territory, however, forms a single valley, one side of which descends gradually from the rounded summits of the Alleganies, while the other rises in an uninterrupted course toward the tops of the Rocky mountains.
At the bottom of the valley flows an immense river, into which the various streams issuing from the mountains fall from all parts. In memory of their native land, the French formerly12 called this the river St. Louis. The Indians, in their pompous13 language, have named it the Father of Waters, or the Mississippi.
The Mississippi takes its source above the limit of the two great regions of which I have spoken, not far from the highest point of the table-land where they unite. Near the same spot rises another river,{4} which empties itself into the polar seas. The course of the Mississippi is at first devious14: it winds several times toward the north, whence it rose; and, at length, after having been delayed in lakes and marshes, it flows slowly onward15 to the south.
Sometimes quietly gliding16 along the argillaceous bed which nature has assigned to it, sometimes swollen17 by storms, the Mississippi waters 2,500 miles in its course.{5} At the distance of 1,364 miles from its mouth this river attains18 an average depth of fifteen feet; and it is navigated19 by vessels20 of 300 tons burden for a course of nearly 500 miles. Fifty-seven large navigable rivers contribute to swell21 the waters of the Mississippi; among others the Missouri, which traverses a space of 2,500 miles; the Arkansas of 1,300 miles; the Red river 1,000 miles; four whose course is from 800 to 1000 miles in length, viz., the Illinois, the St. Peter's, the St. Francis, and the Moingona; besides a countless22 number of rivulets23 which unite from all parts their tributary24 streams.
The valley which is watered by the Mississippi seems formed to be the bed of this mighty25 river, which like a god of antiquity26 dispenses27 both good and evil in its course. On the shores of the stream nature displays an inexhaustible fertility; in proportion as you recede28 from its banks, the powers of vegetation languish29, the soil becomes poor, and the plants that survive have a sickly growth. Nowhere have the great convulsions of the globe left more evident traces than in the valley of the Mississippi: the whole aspect of the country shows the powerful effects of water, both by its fertility and by its barrenness. The waters of the primeval ocean accumulated enormous beds of vegetable mould in the valley, which they levelled as they retired30. Upon the right shore of the river are seen immense plains, as smooth as if the husbandman had passed over them with his roller. As you approach the mountains, the soil becomes more and more unequal and sterile31; the ground is, as it were, pierced in a thousand places by primitive32 rocks, which appear like the bones of a skeleton whose flesh is partly consumed. The surface of the earth is covered with a granitic33 sand, and huge irregular masses of stone, among which a few plants force their growth, and give the appearance of a green field covered with the ruins of a vast edifice34. These stones and this sand discover, on examination, a perfect analogy with those which compose the arid35 and broken summits of the Rocky mountains. The flood of waters which washed the soil to the bottom of the valley, afterward36 carried away portions of the rocks themselves; and these, dashed and bruised37 against the neighboring cliffs, were left scattered38 like wrecks39 at their feet.{6}
The valley of the Mississippi is, upon the whole, the most magnificent dwelling-place prepared by God for man's abode40; and yet it may be said that at present it is but a mighty desert.
On the eastern side of the Alleganies, between the base of these mountains and the Atlantic ocean, lies a long ridge of rocks and sand, which the sea appears to have left behind as it retired. The mean breadth of this territory does not exceed one hundred miles; but it is about nine hundred miles in length. This part of the American continent has a soil which offers every obstacle to the husbandman, and its vegetation is scanty41 and unvaried.
Upon this inhospitable coast the first united efforts of human industry were made. This tongue of arid land was the cradle of those English colonies which were destined43 one day to become the United States of America. The centre of power still remains44 there; while in the backward States the true elements of the great people, to whom the future control of the continent belongs, are secretly springing up.
When the Europeans first landed on the shores of the Antilles, and afterwards on the coast of South America, they thought themselves transported into those fabulous45 regions of which poets had sung. The sea sparkled with phosphoric light, and the extraordinary transparency of its waters discovered to the view of the navigator all that had hitherto been hidden in the deep abyss.{7} Here and there appeared little islands perfumed with odoriferous plants, and resembling baskets of flowers, floating on the tranquil46 surface of the ocean. Every object which met the sight, in this enchanting47 region, seemed prepared to satisfy the wants, or contribute to the pleasures of man. Almost all the trees were loaded with nourishing fruits, and those which were useless as food, delighted the eye by the brilliancy and variety of their colors. In groves48 of fragrant49 lemon-trees, wild figs50, flowering myrtles, acacias, and oleanders, which were hung with festoons of various climbing-plants, covered with flowers, a multitude of birds unknown in Europe displayed their bright plumage, glittering with purple and azure51, and mingled52 their warbling in the harmony of a world teeming53 with life and motion.{8}
Underneath54 this brilliant exterior55 death was concealed56. The air of these climates had so enervating57 an influence that man, completely absorbed by the present enjoyment58, was rendered regardless of the future.
North America appeared under a very different aspect; there, everything was grave, serious, and solemn; it seemed created to be the domain59 of intelligence, as the south was that of sensual delight. A turbulent and foggy ocean washed its shores. It was girded round by a belt of granite60 rocks, or by wide plains of sand. The foliage61 of its woods was dark and gloomy; for they were composed of firs, larches62, evergreen63 oaks, wild olive-trees, and laurels64.
Beyond this outer belt lay the thick shades of the central forests, where the largest trees which are produced in the two hemispheres grow side by side. The plane, the catalpa, the sugar-maple, and the Virginian poplar, mingled their branches with those of the oak, the beech65, and the lime.
In these, as in the forests of the Old World, destruction was perpetually going on. The ruins of vegetation were heaped upon each other; but there was no laboring67 hand to remove them, and their decay was not rapid enough to make room for the continual work of reproduction. Climbing-plants, grasses and other herbs, forced their way through the moss68 of dying trees; they crept along their bending trunks, found nourishment69 in their dusty cavities, and a passage beneath the lifeless bark. Thus decay gave its assistance to life, and their respective productions were mingled together. The depths of these forests were gloomy and obscure, and a thousand rivulets, undirected in their course by human industry, preserved in them a constant moisture. It was rare to meet with flowers, wild fruits, or birds, beneath their shades. The fall of a tree overthrown70 by age, the rushing torrent71 of a cataract72, the lowing of the buffalo73, and the howling of the wind, were the only sounds which broke the silence of nature.
To the east of the great river the woods almost disappeared; in their stead were seen prairies of immense extent. Whether nature in her infinite variety had denied the germes of trees to these fertile plains, or whether they had once been covered with forests, subsequently destroyed by the hand of man, is a question which neither tradition nor scientific research has been able to resolve.
These immense deserts were not, however, devoid74 of human inhabitants. Some wandering tribes had been for ages scattered among the forest shades or the green pastures of the prairie. From the mouth of the St. Lawrence to the Delta75 of the Mississippi, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, these savages77 possessed78 certain points of resemblance which bore witness of their common origin: but at the same time they differed from all other known races of men:{9} they were neither white like the Europeans, nor yellow like most of the Asiatics, nor black like the negroes. Their skin was reddish brown, their hair long and shining, their lips thin, and their cheek-bones very prominent. The languages spoken by the North American tribes were various as far as regarded their words, but they were subject to the same grammatical rules. Those rules differed in several points from such as had been observed to govern the origin of language.
The idiom of the Americans seemed to be the product of new combinations, and bespoke79 an effort of the understanding, of which the Indians of our days would be incapable80.{10}
The social state of these tribes differed also in many respects from all that was seen in the Old World. They seemed to have multiplied freely in the midst of their deserts, without coming in contact with other races more civilized81 than their own.
Accordingly, they exhibited none of those indistinct, incoherent notions of right and wrong, none of that deep corruption82 of manners that is usually joined with ignorance and rudeness among nations which, after advancing to civilisation83, have relapsed into a state of barbarism. The Indian was indebted to no one but himself; his virtues84, his vices85, and his prejudices, were his own work; he had grown up in the wild independence of his nature.
If, in polished countries, the lowest of the people are rude and uncivil, it is not merely because they are poor and ignorant, but that, being so, they are in daily contact with rich and enlightened men. The sight of their own hard lot and of their weakness, which are daily contrasted with the happiness and power of some of their fellow creatures, excites in their hearts at the same time the sentiments of anger and of fear: the consciousness of their inferiority and of their dependence86 irritates while it humiliates87 them. This state of mind displays itself in their manners and language; they are at once insolent88 and servile. The truth of this is easily proved by observation; the people are more rude in aristocratic countries than elsewhere; in opulent cities than in rural districts. In those places where the rich and powerful are assembled together, the weak and the indigent89 feel themselves oppressed by their inferior condition. Unable to perceive a single chance of regaining90 their equality, they give up to despair, and allow themselves to fall below the dignity of human nature.
This unfortunate effect of the disparity of conditions is not observable in savage76 life; the Indians, although they are ignorant and poor, are equal and free.
At the period when Europeans first came among them, the natives of North America were ignorant of the value of riches, and indifferent to the enjoyments91 which civilized man procures92 to himself by their means. Nevertheless there was nothing coarse in their demeanor93; they practised an habitual94 reserve, and a kind of aristocratic politeness.
Mild and hospitable42 when at peace, though merciless in war beyond any known degree of human ferocity, the Indian would expose himself to die of hunger in order to succor95 the stranger who asked admittance by night at the door of his hut—yet he could tear in pieces with his hands the still quivering limbs of his prisoner. The famous republics of antiquity never gave examples of more unshaken courage, more haughty96 spirits, or more intractable love of independence, than were hidden in former times among the wild forests of the New World.{11} The Europeans produced no great impression when they landed upon the shores of North America: their presence engendered97 neither envy nor fear. What influence could they possess over such men as we have described? The Indian could live without wants, suffer without complaint, and pour out his death-song at the stake.{12} Like all the other members of the great human family, these savages believed in the existence of a better world, and adored, under different names, God, the Creator of the universe. Their notions on the great intellectual truths were, in general, simple and philosophical98.{13}
Although we have here traced the character of a primitive people, yet it cannot be doubted that another people, more civilized and more advanced in all respects, had preceded it in the same regions.
An obscure tradition, which prevailed among the Indians to the north of the Atlantic, informs us that these very tribes formerly dwelt on the west side of the Mississippi. Along the banks of the Ohio, and throughout the central valley, there are frequently found, at this day, tumuli raised by the hands of men. On exploring these heaps of earth to their centre, it is usual to meet with human bones, strange instruments, arms and utensils99 of all kinds, made of a metal, or destined for purposes, unknown to the present race.
The Indians of our time are unable to give any information relative to the history of this unknown people. Neither did those who lived three hundred years ago, when America was first discovered, leave any accounts from which even an hypothesis could be formed. Tradition—that perishable100, yet ever-renewed monument of the pristine101 world—throws no light upon the subject. It is an undoubted fact, however, that in this part of the globe thousands of our fellow-beings had lived. When they came hither, what was their origin, their destiny, their history, and how they perished, no one can tell.
How strange does it appear that nations have existed, and afterward so completely disappeared from the earth, that the remembrance of their very name is effaced102: their languages are lost; their glory is vanished like a sound without an echo; but perhaps there is not one which has not left behind it a tomb in memory of its passage. The most durable103 monument of human labor66 is that which recalls the wretchedness and nothingness of man.
Although the vast country which we have been describing was inhabited by many indigenous104 tribes, it may justly be said, at the time of its discovery by Europeans, to have formed one great desert. The Indians occupied, without possessing it. It is by agricultural labor that man appropriates the soil, and the early inhabitants of North America lived by the produce of the chase. Their implacable prejudices, their uncontrolled passions, their vices, and still more, perhaps, their savage virtues, consigned105 them to inevitable106 destruction. The ruin of these nations began from the day when Europeans landed on their shores: it has proceeded ever since, and we are now seeing the completion of it. They seemed to have been placed by Providence107 amid the riches of the New World to enjoy them for a season, and then surrender them. Those coasts, so admirably adapted for commerce and industry; those wide and deep rivers; that inexhaustible valley of the Mississippi; the whole continent, in short, seemed prepared to be the abode of a great nation, yet unborn.
In that land the great experiment was to be made by civilized man, of the attempt to construct society upon a new basis; and it was there, for the first time, that theories hitherto unknown, or deemed impracticable, were to exhibit a spectacle for which the world had not been prepared by the history of the past.
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1
discriminate
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| v.区别，辨别，区分；有区别地对待 | |
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prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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meander
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| n.河流的曲折，漫步，迂回旅行；v.缓慢而弯曲地流动，漫谈 | |
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disperse
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| vi.使分散；使消失；vt.分散；驱散 | |
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marshes
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| n.沼泽，湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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labyrinth
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| n.迷宫；难解的事物；迷路 | |
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windings
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| （道路、河流等）蜿蜒的，弯曲的( winding的名词复数 )； 缠绕( wind的现在分词 )； 卷绕； 转动（把手） | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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pompous
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| adj.傲慢的，自大的；夸大的；豪华的 | |
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devious
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| adj.不坦率的，狡猾的；迂回的，曲折的 | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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attains
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的第三人称单数 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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navigated
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| v.给（船舶、飞机等）引航，导航( navigate的过去式和过去分词 )；（从海上、空中等）横越；横渡；飞跃 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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rivulets
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| n.小河，小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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tributary
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| n.支流；纳贡国；adj.附庸的；辅助的；支流的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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dispenses
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| v.分配，分与；分配( dispense的第三人称单数 )；施与；配（药） | |
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recede
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| vi.退(去)，渐渐远去；向后倾斜，缩进 | |
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languish
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| vi.变得衰弱无力，失去活力，（植物等）凋萎 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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granitic
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| 花岗石的，由花岗岩形成的 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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wrecks
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| n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 )；（事故中）遭严重毁坏的汽车（或飞机等）；（身体或精神上）受到严重损伤的人；状况非常糟糕的车辆（或建筑物等）v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 )；使（船舶）失事，使遇难，使下沉 | |
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40
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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42
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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44
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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45
fabulous
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| adj.极好的；极为巨大的；寓言中的，传说中的 | |
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46
tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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48
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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50
figs
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| figures 数字，图形，外形 | |
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51
azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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52
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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53
teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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54
underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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56
concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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57
enervating
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| v.使衰弱，使失去活力( enervate的现在分词 ) | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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domain
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| n.(活动等)领域，范围；领地，势力范围 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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larches
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| n.落叶松（木材）( larch的名词复数 ) | |
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evergreen
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| n.常青树；adj.四季常青的 | |
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laurels
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| n.桂冠，荣誉 | |
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beech
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| n.山毛榉；adj.山毛榉的 | |
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labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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laboring
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| n.劳动，操劳v.努力争取(for)( labor的现在分词 )；苦干；详细分析；（指引擎）缓慢而困难地运转 | |
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68
moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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70
overthrown
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| adj. 打翻的，推倒的，倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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71
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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cataract
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| n.大瀑布，奔流，洪水，白内障 | |
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73
buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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delta
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| n.（流的）角洲 | |
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76
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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bespoke
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| adj.（产品）订做的；专做订货的v.预定( bespeak的过去式 )；订（货）；证明；预先请求 | |
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80
incapable
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| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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corruption
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| n.腐败，堕落，贪污 | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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84
virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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85
vices
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| 缺陷( vice的名词复数 )； 恶习； 不道德行为； 台钳 | |
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dependence
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| n.依靠，依赖；信任，信赖；隶属 | |
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humiliates
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| 使蒙羞，羞辱，使丢脸( humiliate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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insolent
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| adj.傲慢的，无理的 | |
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indigent
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| adj.贫穷的，贫困的 | |
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regaining
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| 复得( regain的现在分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
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enjoyments
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| 愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 )； 令人愉快的事物； 享有； 享受 | |
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procures
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的第三人称单数 )；拉皮条 | |
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demeanor
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| n.行为；风度 | |
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habitual
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| adj.习惯性的；通常的，惯常的 | |
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succor
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| n.援助，帮助；v.给予帮助 | |
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haughty
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| adj.傲慢的，高傲的 | |
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engendered
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| v.产生（某形势或状况），造成，引起( engender的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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philosophical
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| adj.哲学家的，哲学上的，达观的 | |
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utensils
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| 器具，用具，器皿( utensil的名词复数 )； 器物 | |
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perishable
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| adj.（尤指食物）易腐的，易坏的 | |
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pristine
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| adj.原来的，古时的，原始的，纯净的，无垢的 | |
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102
effaced
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| v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 )；抹去；超越；使黯然失色 | |
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103
durable
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| adj.持久的，耐久的 | |
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indigenous
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| adj.土产的，土生土长的，本地的 | |
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105
consigned
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| v.把…置于（令人不快的境地）( consign的过去式和过去分词 )；把…托付给；把…托人代售；丟弃 | |
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106
inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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107
providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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