Of late, they have built their places of worship with more reference to durability4 than formerly5. At one time, there were no less than thirty-six on the island—mere barns, tied together with thongs6, which went to destruction in a very few years.
One, built many years ago in this style, was a most remarkable7 structure. It was erected8 by Pomaree II., who, on this occasion, showed all the zeal9 of a royal proselyte. The building was over seven hundred feet in length, and of a proportionate width; the vast ridge-pole was at intervals10 supported by a row of thirty-six cylindrical11 trunks of the bread-fruit tree; and, all round, the wall-plates rested on shafts12 of the palm. The roof—steeply inclining to within a man's height of the ground—was thatched with leaves, and the sides of the edifice14 were open. Thus spacious15 was the Royal Mission Chapel16 of Papoar.
At its dedication17, three distinct sermons were, from different pulpits, preached to an immense concourse gathered from all parts of the island.
As the chapel was built by the king's command, nearly as great a multitude was employed in its construction as swarmed18 over the scaffolding of the great temple of the Jews. Much less time, however, was expended19. In less than three weeks from planting the first post, the last tier of palmetto-leaves drooped20 from the eaves, and the work was done.
Apportioned21 to the several chiefs and their dependants22, the labour, though immense, was greatly facilitated by everyone's bringing his post, or his rafter, or his pole strung with thatching, ready for instant use. The materials thus prepared being afterwards secured together by thongs, there was literally23 "neither hammer, nor axe24, nor any tool of iron heard in the house while it was building."
But the most singular circumstance connected with this South Sea cathedral remains25 to be related. As well for the beauty as the advantages of such a site, the islanders love to dwell near the mountain streams; and so, a considerable brook26, after descending27 from the hills and watering the valley, was bridged over in three places, and swept clean through the chapel.
Flowing waters! what an accompaniment to the songs of the sanctuary28; mingling29 with them the praises and thanksgivings of the green solitudes30 inland.
But the chapel of the Polynesian Solomon has long since been deserted31. Its thousand rafters of habiscus have decayed, and fallen to the ground; and now, the stream murmurs32 over them in its bed.
The present metropolitan33 church of Tahiti is very unlike the one just described. It is of moderate dimensions, boarded over, and painted white. It is furnished also with blinds, but no sashes; indeed, were it not for the rustic34 thatch13, it would remind one of a plain chapel at home.
The woodwork was all done by foreign carpenters, of whom there are always several about Papeetee.
Within, its aspect is unique, and cannot fail to interest a stranger. The rafters overhead are bound round with fine matting of variegated35 dyes; and all along the ridge-pole these trappings hang pendent, in alternate bunches of tassels36 and deep fringes of stained grass. The floor is composed of rude planks37. Regular aisles38 run between ranges of native settees, bottomed with crossed braids of the cocoa-nut fibre, and furnished with backs.
But the pulpit, made of a dark, lustrous39 wood, and standing40 at one end, is by far the most striking object. It is preposterously41 lofty; indeed, a capital bird's-eye view of the congregation ought to be had from its summit.
Nor does the church lack a gallery, which runs round on three sides, and is supported by columns of the cocoa-nut tree.
Its facings are here and there daubed over with a tawdry blue; and in other places (without the slightest regard to uniformity), patches of the same colour may be seen. In their ardour to decorate the sanctuary, the converts must have borrowed each a brush full of paint, and zealously42 daubed away at the first surface that offered.
As hinted, the general impression is extremely curious. Little light being admitted, and everything being of a dark colour, there is an indefinable Indian aspect of duskiness throughout. A strange, woody smell, also—more or less pervading43 every considerable edifice in Polynesia—is at once perceptible. It suggests the idea of worm-eaten idols44 packed away in some old lumber-room at hand.
For the most part, the congregation attending this church is composed of the better and wealthier orders—the chiefs and their retainers; in short, the rank and fashion of the island. This class is infinitely45 superior in personal beauty and general healthfulness to the "marenhoar," or common people; the latter having been more exposed to the worst and most debasing evils of foreign intercourse46. On Sundays, the former are invariably arrayed in their finery; and thus appear to the best advantage. Nor are they driven to the chapel, as some of their inferiors are to other places of worship; on the contrary, capable of maintaining a handsome exterior47, and possessing greater intelligence, they go voluntarily.
In respect of the woodland colonnade48 supporting its galleries, I called this chapel the Church of the Cocoa-nuts.
It was the first place for Christian49 worship in Polynesia that I had seen; and the impression upon entering during service was all the stronger. Majestic-looking chiefs whose fathers had hurled50 the battle-club, and old men who had seen sacrifices smoking upon the altars of Oro, were there. And hark! hanging from the bough51 of a bread-fruit tree without, a bell is being struck with a bar of iron by a native lad. In the same spot, the blast of the war-conch had often resounded52. But to the proceedings53 within.
The place is well filled. Everywhere meets the eye the gay calico draperies worn on great occasions by the higher classes, and forming a strange contrast of patterns and colours. In some instances, these are so fashioned as to resemble as much as possible European garments. This is in excessively bad taste. Coats and pantaloons, too, are here and there seen; but they look awkwardly enough, and take away from the general effect.
But it is the array of countenances54 that most strikes you. Each is suffused55 with the peculiar56 animation57 of the Polynesians, when thus collected in large numbers. Every robe is rustling58, every limb in motion, and an incessant59 buzzing going on throughout the assembly. The tumult60 is so great that the voice of the placid61 old missionary62, who now rises, is almost inaudible. Some degree of silence is at length obtained through the exertions63 of half-a-dozen strapping64 fellows, in white shirts and no pantaloons. Running in among the settees, they are at great pains to inculcate the impropriety of making a noise by creating a most unnecessary racket themselves. This part of the service was quite comical.
There is a most interesting Sabbath School connected with the church; and the scholars, a vivacious65, mischievous66 set, were in one part of the gallery. I was amused by a party in a corner. The teacher sat at one end of the bench, with a meek67 little fellow by his side. When the others were disorderly, this young martyr68 received a rap; intended, probably, as a sample of what the rest might expect, if they didn't amend69.
Standing in the body of the church, and leaning against a pillar, was an old man, in appearance very different from others of his countrymen. He wore nothing but a coarse, scant70 mantle71 of faded tappa; and from his staring, bewildered manner, I set him down as an aged72 bumpkin from the interior, unaccustomed to the strange sights and sounds of the metropolis73. This old worthy74 was sharply reprimanded for standing up, and thus intercepting75 the view of those behind; but not comprehending exactly what was said to him, one of the white-liveried gentry76 made no ceremony of grasping him by the shoulders, and fairly crushing him down into a seat.
During all this, the old missionary in the pulpit—as well as his associates beneath, never ventured to interfere—leaving everything to native management. With South Sea islanders, assembled in any numbers, there is no other way of getting along.
点击收听单词发音
1 outskirts | |
n.郊外,郊区 | |
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2 esteemed | |
adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 );敬重;认为;以为 | |
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3 specimen | |
n.样本,标本 | |
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4 durability | |
n.经久性,耐用性 | |
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5 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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6 thongs | |
的东西 | |
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7 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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8 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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9 zeal | |
n.热心,热情,热忱 | |
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10 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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11 cylindrical | |
adj.圆筒形的 | |
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12 shafts | |
n.轴( shaft的名词复数 );(箭、高尔夫球棒等的)杆;通风井;一阵(疼痛、害怕等) | |
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13 thatch | |
vt.用茅草覆盖…的顶部;n.茅草(屋) | |
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14 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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15 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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16 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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17 dedication | |
n.奉献,献身,致力,题献,献辞 | |
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18 swarmed | |
密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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19 expended | |
v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 );使用(钱等)做某事;用光;耗尽 | |
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20 drooped | |
弯曲或下垂,发蔫( droop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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21 apportioned | |
vt.分摊,分配(apportion的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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22 dependants | |
受赡养者,受扶养的家属( dependant的名词复数 ) | |
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23 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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24 axe | |
n.斧子;v.用斧头砍,削减 | |
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25 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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26 brook | |
n.小河,溪;v.忍受,容让 | |
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27 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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28 sanctuary | |
n.圣所,圣堂,寺庙;禁猎区,保护区 | |
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29 mingling | |
adj.混合的 | |
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30 solitudes | |
n.独居( solitude的名词复数 );孤独;荒僻的地方;人迹罕至的地方 | |
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31 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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32 murmurs | |
n.低沉、连续而不清的声音( murmur的名词复数 );低语声;怨言;嘀咕 | |
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33 metropolitan | |
adj.大城市的,大都会的 | |
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34 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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35 variegated | |
adj.斑驳的,杂色的 | |
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36 tassels | |
n.穗( tassel的名词复数 );流苏状物;(植物的)穗;玉蜀黍的穗状雄花v.抽穗, (玉米)长穗须( tassel的第三人称单数 );使抽穗, (为了使作物茁壮生长)摘去穗状雄花;用流苏装饰 | |
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37 planks | |
(厚)木板( plank的名词复数 ); 政纲条目,政策要点 | |
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38 aisles | |
n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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39 lustrous | |
adj.有光泽的;光辉的 | |
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40 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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41 preposterously | |
adv.反常地;荒谬地;荒谬可笑地;不合理地 | |
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42 zealously | |
adv.热心地;热情地;积极地;狂热地 | |
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43 pervading | |
v.遍及,弥漫( pervade的现在分词 ) | |
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44 idols | |
偶像( idol的名词复数 ); 受崇拜的人或物; 受到热爱和崇拜的人或物; 神像 | |
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45 infinitely | |
adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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46 intercourse | |
n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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47 exterior | |
adj.外部的,外在的;表面的 | |
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48 colonnade | |
n.柱廊 | |
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49 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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50 hurled | |
v.猛投,用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 );大声叫骂 | |
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51 bough | |
n.大树枝,主枝 | |
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52 resounded | |
v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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53 proceedings | |
n.进程,过程,议程;诉讼(程序);公报 | |
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54 countenances | |
n.面容( countenance的名词复数 );表情;镇静;道义支持 | |
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55 suffused | |
v.(指颜色、水气等)弥漫于,布满( suffuse的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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56 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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57 animation | |
n.活泼,兴奋,卡通片/动画片的制作 | |
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58 rustling | |
n. 瑟瑟声,沙沙声 adj. 发沙沙声的 | |
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59 incessant | |
adj.不停的,连续的 | |
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60 tumult | |
n.喧哗;激动,混乱;吵闹 | |
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61 placid | |
adj.安静的,平和的 | |
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62 missionary | |
adj.教会的,传教(士)的;n.传教士 | |
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63 exertions | |
n.努力( exertion的名词复数 );费力;(能力、权力等的)运用;行使 | |
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64 strapping | |
adj. 魁伟的, 身材高大健壮的 n. 皮绳或皮带的材料, 裹伤胶带, 皮鞭 动词strap的现在分词形式 | |
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65 vivacious | |
adj.活泼的,快活的 | |
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66 mischievous | |
adj.调皮的,恶作剧的,有害的,伤人的 | |
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67 meek | |
adj.温顺的,逆来顺受的 | |
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68 martyr | |
n.烈士,殉难者;vt.杀害,折磨,牺牲 | |
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69 amend | |
vt.修改,修订,改进;n.[pl.]赔罪,赔偿 | |
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70 scant | |
adj.不充分的,不足的;v.减缩,限制,忽略 | |
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71 mantle | |
n.斗篷,覆罩之物,罩子;v.罩住,覆盖,脸红 | |
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72 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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73 metropolis | |
n.首府;大城市 | |
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74 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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75 intercepting | |
截取(技术),截接 | |
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76 gentry | |
n.绅士阶级,上层阶级 | |
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