After the long vacation of 1850 he had intended to begin practice in Doctors’ Commons, but was delayed by an accident. He was struck in the eye by a spent shot, in cover shooting, and, though the accident proved not to be a serious one, he was ordered to rest his eyes entirely6, and accordingly settled to spend the winter in Italy. The vexation of such a check at the opening of his professional career, was almost compensated7, I think, by the delight which this tour gave him. He had never been abroad at this time, except for a few days in France, and his education and natural tastes peculiarly fitted him for enjoying Italy thoroughly8, for he was passionately9 fond of art, as well as a fine classical scholar, having never dropped his Latin and Greek, as most of us are so apt to do the moment we have taken our degrees.
He lingered a little in France, on his way south, chiefly to accustom10 his ear and tongue to the language, and he writes:—
“Marseilles, December 6th, 1850.
“I have not made much progress in French; everyone speaks English except the ouvriers. I address a waiter in a splendid sentence, which I expect will strike him with awe11, and impress him with my knowledge of the French language, and he takes me down by answering in English; as much as to say, ‘For goodness’ sake speak your own[123] language, and I shall understand you better.’ In such a state of things, one can only listen to the conversation of Frenchmen with one another, and try to imitate their accent. In spite of beard and mustachios, it is Voilà les Anglais wherever we go. The only person who passes for a Frenchman is one of our American fellow-travellers, who has grown a most venerable beard; but, as he pronounces French just as if it were English, and calls Dijon ‘Dee John,’ he is afraid to open his mouth for fear of being convicted as an impostor immediately. I think an Englishman’s walk betrays him; I think there is an unconscious swagger about it, which savours strongly of ‘ros-bif,’ and which the French detect in a moment. However, they are most polite and obliging, and I think they would be glad to do you any service.”
In Italy, he went from city to city, revelling14 in picture galleries and studios, as his eyes regained15 strength; taking lessons in Italian, visiting spots of historical interest, and sympathising with, and appreciating, the Italians, while wondering at their patience under the yoke16 of their Governments. It was the same winter which Mr. Gladstone spent in Italy, and signalized by his pamphlet on the political prisoners at Naples. Fortunately for my brother, he found Mr. Senior and his family at Naples, and again at Rome, and through their kindness, and that of Lady Malcolm, saw as much of Italian society as he cared for. A few selections from his letters will show you how he spent his time, and the impressions which his Italian travel left on his mind:—
[124]
“Naples, January 7, 1851.
“There is a party of street-singers, and a Punch, outside under my window, who distract me horribly. They have an eternal tune17 here, which every ragged18 boy sings; it is called, I believe, ‘Io ti voglio,’ and is rather pretty, but you may have too much of a good thing. The beggars are most amusing, and certainly work very hard in their vocation19. There is an old woman who lies on the ground in a fit all day long; another elderly female stands by her in a despairing attitude, to draw attention to her protracted20 sufferings, and receive the contributions of the credulously21 benevolent22. But the old lady is nothing to a boy, who lies on the ground and bellows23 like a bull positively24 for three or four hours together; I quite admire the energy with which he follows his profession. From the number of crippled and deformed25 persons one sees, I am inclined to believe that the Neapolitans purposely mutilate themselves in order to succeed better in their favourite calling. They will do anything sooner than work usefully. Punch and the singers have gone, and I am at peace. All that I see of continental26 countries makes me more glad that I am an Englishman. None of them seem secure. The poor Pope is kept at Rome by the French; and here they say the King is very unpopular, except with the lowest class. This consciousness of insecurity makes them very suspicious and harsh. Two or three days ago an Italian, the legal adviser27 to our Embassy, was popped into prison on suspicion of correspondence with Mazzini. Fancy Queen Victoria putting an Englishman into Newgate on her own authority for receiving a letter from a Chartist. I suppose they are obliged to be harsh to prevent revolutions; thank Heaven, England is free and loyal.”
“Naples, January 13, 1851.
“I have discovered a cousin on board the English war steamer; he is one of the midshipmen, and on Thursday I[125] took a boat to pay him a visit. I was obliged to obtain permission from the police to go on board. There are a quantity of miserable28 refugees lying concealed29 in Naples, watching their opportunity to get on board the English ship, where they are safe under the protection of our flag. Four are on board already, but there are two police-boats constantly on the look-out near our ship, to prevent more from coming. Is it not a miserable state of things?”
“Rome, January 1851.
“My dearest Mother,
“.... Tell my father that I have been very extravagant30. I have bought a copy in marble of the Psyche31 in the Museum at Naples; a very clever artist is executing it for me, and it will be finished about the middle of April. Mr. Senior is also having a copy taken. I do not know if my father knows the statue. It is attributed to Praxiteles. Nothing has pleased me so much, except perhaps the Dying Gladiator; and as it is very simple, the cost of the copy is comparatively trifling32. It will look very well against the dark oak of your drawing-room at Donnington, and I hope you will approve of my taste.”
“Rome, January 28, 1851.
“We saw two things yesterday which will interest you: the catacombs in which the early Christian33 martyrs34 were buried, and in which the Christians35 met during the persecutions to worship God. They are immense subterranean37 passages, extending, they say, twenty miles; but you can only see a part, as they are closed, for fear of affording shelter to thieves. The other thing was, a little church about two miles from Rome, on the Appian Road, to which a beautiful legend is attached. It is said that St. Peter, during the persecution36 in which he suffered martyrdom, lost heart, and fled from Rome by the Appian Road; he had arrived at[126] the spot where the church now stands, when our Lord appeared to him, going towards Rome. The Apostle exclaimed in astonishment38, ‘Lord, whither goest thou?’ The answer was, ‘I go to Rome to be crucified again.’ Whereupon Peter turned back, and re-entered the city, and suffered the death which had been predicted for him. There is no reason why this should not be true, but, true or not, it is a beautiful story, and I was much interested by it. They show a stone with the impression of our Lord’s feet upon it, which is kept as a relic39.”
“February 10, 1851.—I think that my Italian progresses favourably40. My master tells me that I pronounce it better than any other of his pupils; and as he is very strict, and finds fault with everything else, I suppose I must believe that he speaks the truth.”
“February 18, 1851.—You will be glad to hear that I have returned to Rome from my walking tour without having been robbed, or murdered; but, indeed, I must repeat, that the good gentleman your informant must have been dreaming. We received nothing but kindness and civility, and I believe that you might walk along the same mountain paths with equal safety. As for us, we looked much too rough a lot to tempt41 robbers, being rather like banditti ourselves. One of my companions wore a venerable beard, and I am afraid we both looked picturesque42 ruffians. Our other companion looked tame, and carried an umbrella. We used to take a cup of coffee and a roll soon after sunrise, then walk to some romantic village about ten miles off, and there breakfast. Our breakfast consisted of an omelette, a frittata as they call it here, which we cooked ourselves. We used to rush into an osteria di cucina in a state of ravenous43 hunger. ——, my friend with the beard, who is a very good cook, seizes the frying-pan, I beat up the eggs, and S—— is degraded into scullion, to[127] cut up some ham and an onion!! I believe the people think us mad. They could not conceive why we liked to cook our own breakfast, and walk when we might have ridden. After breakfast, it was so hot that we used to select a convenient spot on the hill-side, and lie down for an hour, and then continue our walk till about sunset, when we reached our resting-place for the night. In this way we saw some of the most beautiful country you can imagine. Every little exertion44 we made in climbing a rock was amply rewarded by something most strange and picturesque. The towns are particularly striking, some of them being built on the very top of mountains nearly 3,000 feet high, and reached with difficulty, by a narrow winding45 path. I am convinced that a walking tour is the only plan of really seeing Italian scenery. I made some sketches46, but am sorry to say that, coming into Rome on Saturday night, my pocket was picked of my sketch-book (a very useless prize to anyone but the owner, and perhaps you), so I lost them all. I am excessively vexed47, for I wanted to show you the sort of places where we took our mid-day’s rest. Tivoli was our last stage, and perhaps the most interesting,—there is such a splendid waterfall there. Even if I do not see Turin, I shall be quite satisfied with my recollections of it.”
After this he hastened home, meeting with no more serious adventure than the one recorded in a letter to the same correspondent, as follows:—
“I travelled from Chambery to Lyons all alone in a coupée with an Italian lady! Horrid48 situation! and what made it worse was, that the poor thing was very tired this morning, and fell fast asleep, and whilst in a state of oblivion, dropped her head comfortably on to my arm.[128] After revolving49 in my mind this alarming state of things, I thought it would be best to feign50 to be asleep myself; and accordingly, when we jolted51 over a gutter52, and she awoke with a start, she found me with my eyes shut, and snoring. I hope I acted it well, but could hardly help laughing. I shortly afterwards rubbed my eyes and awoke, and she gave me a roll and some chocolate, for which I was very thankful; so I suppose she approved of my conduct.”
He returned entirely restored to health, and so good an Italian scholar, that he was able to write fluently in the language, and to dedicate the little objects of art, which he brought home as presents, in appropriate verse.
One of these was an inkstand in the shape of an owl12, now very common, which he presented to Lady Salusbury, a kinswoman of your grandfather, to whose adopted daughter he had lately engaged himself, with this inscription:—
“‘La stolidezza copresi talvolta di sembiante
Savio; siccome per dar ricovero all’ inchi ostro
Immago dell’ uccello di sapienza.’
“Ecco la finta pompa dell’ uccello!
Il quale, sotto ’l grave e savio viso
Avendo pur di piombo il cervello
“Così si trova dal sembiante bello
Talvolta lo bel spirito diviso,
Si trova con la roba da Dottore
Di piombo pur la testa, ed anch’ il cuore.”
[129]
To the young lady herself he wrote on his return: “I have continued writing a journal, and you will be astonished to hear that your name is not once mentioned in it. It is, however, written in invisible ink across every page. It may be absurd, but I consider my feelings towards you so sacred, that I should not like to parade them even to my nearest relations.”
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1 inmate | |
n.被收容者;(房屋等的)居住人;住院人 | |
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2 precisely | |
adv.恰好,正好,精确地,细致地 | |
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3 exhorted | |
v.劝告,劝说( exhort的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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4 diminutive | |
adj.小巧可爱的,小的 | |
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5 allured | |
诱引,吸引( allure的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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6 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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7 compensated | |
补偿,报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 ); 给(某人)赔偿(或赔款) | |
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8 thoroughly | |
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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9 passionately | |
ad.热烈地,激烈地 | |
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10 accustom | |
vt.使适应,使习惯 | |
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11 awe | |
n.敬畏,惊惧;vt.使敬畏,使惊惧 | |
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12 owl | |
n.猫头鹰,枭 | |
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13 con | |
n.反对的观点,反对者,反对票,肺病;vt.精读,学习,默记;adv.反对地,从反面;adj.欺诈的 | |
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14 revelling | |
v.作乐( revel的现在分词 );狂欢;着迷;陶醉 | |
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15 regained | |
复得( regain的过去式和过去分词 ); 赢回; 重回; 复至某地 | |
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16 yoke | |
n.轭;支配;v.给...上轭,连接,使成配偶 | |
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17 tune | |
n.调子;和谐,协调;v.调音,调节,调整 | |
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18 ragged | |
adj.衣衫褴褛的,粗糙的,刺耳的 | |
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19 vocation | |
n.职业,行业 | |
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20 protracted | |
adj.拖延的;延长的v.拖延“protract”的过去式和过去分词 | |
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21 credulously | |
adv.轻信地,易被瞒地 | |
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22 benevolent | |
adj.仁慈的,乐善好施的 | |
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23 bellows | |
n.风箱;发出吼叫声,咆哮(尤指因痛苦)( bellow的名词复数 );(愤怒地)说出(某事),大叫v.发出吼叫声,咆哮(尤指因痛苦)( bellow的第三人称单数 );(愤怒地)说出(某事),大叫 | |
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24 positively | |
adv.明确地,断然,坚决地;实在,确实 | |
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25 deformed | |
adj.畸形的;变形的;丑的,破相了的 | |
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26 continental | |
adj.大陆的,大陆性的,欧洲大陆的 | |
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27 adviser | |
n.劝告者,顾问 | |
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28 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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29 concealed | |
a.隐藏的,隐蔽的 | |
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30 extravagant | |
adj.奢侈的;过分的;(言行等)放肆的 | |
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31 psyche | |
n.精神;灵魂 | |
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32 trifling | |
adj.微不足道的;没什么价值的 | |
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33 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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34 martyrs | |
n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
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35 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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36 persecution | |
n. 迫害,烦扰 | |
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37 subterranean | |
adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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38 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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39 relic | |
n.神圣的遗物,遗迹,纪念物 | |
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40 favourably | |
adv. 善意地,赞成地 =favorably | |
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41 tempt | |
vt.引诱,勾引,吸引,引起…的兴趣 | |
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42 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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43 ravenous | |
adj.极饿的,贪婪的 | |
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44 exertion | |
n.尽力,努力 | |
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45 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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46 sketches | |
n.草图( sketch的名词复数 );素描;速写;梗概 | |
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47 vexed | |
adj.争论不休的;(指问题等)棘手的;争论不休的问题;烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 );使苦恼;使生气;详细讨论 | |
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48 horrid | |
adj.可怕的;令人惊恐的;恐怖的;极讨厌的 | |
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49 revolving | |
adj.旋转的,轮转式的;循环的v.(使)旋转( revolve的现在分词 );细想 | |
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50 feign | |
vt.假装,佯作 | |
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51 jolted | |
(使)摇动, (使)震惊( jolt的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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52 gutter | |
n.沟,街沟,水槽,檐槽,贫民窟 | |
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53 forte | |
n.长处,擅长;adj.(音乐)强音的 | |
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