As you draw near to Bologna, the country gradually improves in cultivation3; and, for some miles before you enter the town, seems one continued garden. The vineyards are not divided by hedges, but by[293] rows of elms and mulberry trees; the vines hanging in a most beautiful picturesque4 manner, in festoons from one tree to another. This country is not only fertile in vines, but likewise in corn, olives, and pasturage, and has, not without foundation, acquired the name of Bologna la Grassa.
This town is well built, and populous5; the number of inhabitants amounting to seventy, or perhaps eighty thousand. The houses in general have lofty porticoes6, which would have a better effect if the streets were not so narrow; but in this particular, magnificence is sacrificed to conveniency; for, in Italy, shade is considered as a luxury.
The Duchy of Bologna had conditions granted to it, upon submitting to the Papal dominion7. Those conditions have been observed with a degree of punctuality and good faith, which many zealous8 Protestants would not expect in the Church of Rome.
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Bologna retains the name of a republic, sends an ambassador to the Pope’s court, and the word Libertas is inscribed9 on the arms and coin of the State, with the flattering capitals S. P. Q. B. The civil government and police of the town is allowed to remain in the hands of the magistrates11, who are chosen by the Senate, which formerly12 consisted of forty members; but since this republic came under the protection, as it is called, of the Pope, he thought proper to add ten more, but the whole fifty still retain the name of the Quaranta. Mankind, in general, are more alarmed by a change of name, in things which they have long regarded with veneration13, than by a real change in the nature of the things themselves. The Pope may have had some good political reason for augmenting14 the number of the council to fifty; but he could have none for calling them the Council of Fifty, if the people chose rather to call fifty men assembled together the Council of Forty. One of[295] the Senators presides in the Senate, and is called the Gonfalonier; from his carrying the standard (Gonfalone) of the republic. He is chief magistrate10, is attended by guards, and is constantly at the palace, or near it, to be ready on any emergency; but he remains15 only two months in office, and the Senators take it by turns.
In the midst of all this appearance of independency, a Cardinal16 Legate from Rome governs this republic: he is appointed by the Pope, with a Vice17 Legate, and other assistants. The orders which the Legate issues, are supposed to be with the approbation18 of the Senate; at least, they are never disputed by that prudent19 body of men. The office, which is of higher dignity than any other now in the gift of the Court of Rome, continues for three years: at the expiration20 of that time, his Holiness either appoints a new Legate, or confirms the old one in the office for three years longer.
[296]
This ecclesiastical Viceroy lives in great magnificence, and has a numerous suite21 of pages, equerries, and halberdiers, who attend him in the city. When he goes into the country, he is accompanied by guards on horseback.
The Gonfalonier and magistrates regulate all the usual matters which regard the police, and decide, in common causes, according to the laws and ancient forms of the republic; but there is no doubt that, in affairs of great importance, and, indeed, as often as he chooses to interfere22, the Cardinal Legate influences decisions. This must be mortifying23 to the Senators and noble families, but is less felt by the people in general, who have every appearance of living under a mild and beneficent Government.
The inhabitants of Bologna carry on a very considerable trade in silks and velvets, which are manufactured here in great perfection. The country produces immense[297] quantities of oil, wine, flax, and hemp24; and furnishes all Europe with sausages, Macaroni, liqueurs, and essences. The people seem to be industrious25, and to be allowed to enjoy the fruits of their labour; the markets are most plentifully26 supplied with provisions; fruit is to be had in great variety, and all excellent in its kind; the common wine of the country is a light white wine of an agreeable taste, which strangers prefer to any of the French or German wines to be had here. Those who are not pleased with the entertainment they meet with at the inns in this city, it will be a difficult matter to please; they must be possessed27 of a degree of such nicety, both in their palates and tempers, as will render them exceedingly troublesome to themselves and others, not only in their travels through Italy, but in the whole course of their journey through life.
There are a great number of palaces in this city. What is called the Public Palace,[298] is, by far, the most spacious28, but not the most elegant. In this the Cardinal Legate is lodged29. There are also apartments for the Gonfalonier; and halls, or chambers30, for some of the courts of justice. This building, though of a gloomy and irregular form without, contains some very magnificent apartments, and a few good pictures: the most esteemed31 are, a large one, by Guido, of the Virgin32, and the infant Jesus, seated on the rainbow; a Sampson, by Guido also, refreshing33 himself with the water which issues from the jaw-bone with which he has just defeated the Philistines34; and a St. John the Baptist, by Raphael, a duplicate of that in the Palais Royal at Paris, but thought, by some connoisseurs35, greatly inferior. For my part, I think it is to be regretted, that this great painter did not employ the time he spent on one of them, at least, on some subject more worthy36 of his talents. A single figure, unemployed37, can never please so much as a groupe, occupied in some interesting[299] action. It is a pity that a painter, capable, even in a moderate degree, of exciting the passions, should confine his talents to solitary38 figures. How much more unworthy of him who possessed all the sublimity39 and pathos40 of the art!
On his arrival at this town, the first object which strikes the eye of a stranger, is a noble marble fountain, in the area before the Palazzo Publico. The principal figure is a statue of Neptune41, eleven feet in height; one of his hands is stretched out before him, in the other he holds the Trident. The body and limbs are finely proportioned, the anatomy42 perfect, the character of the countenance43 severe and majestic44. This figure of Neptune, as well as all the others of boys, dolphins, and syrens, which surround it, are in bronze. The whole is the workmanship of Giovanni di Bologna, and is highly esteemed; yet there seems to be an impropriety in making[300] water flow in streams from the breasts of the sea nymphs, or syrens.
Over the entrance of the Legate’s palace, is a bronze statue of a Pope. The tiara, and other parts of the Papal uniform, are not so favourable45 to the sculptor’s genius, as the naked simplicity46 in which Neptune appears. A female traveller, however, not extravagantly47 fond of the fine arts, would rather be observed admiring the sculptor’s skill in imitating the folds of the Sacerdotal robes, than his anatomical accuracy in forming the majestic proportions of the Sea Divinity.
点击收听单词发音
1 remonstrate | |
v.抗议,规劝 | |
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2 irresistible | |
adj.非常诱人的,无法拒绝的,无法抗拒的 | |
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3 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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4 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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5 populous | |
adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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6 porticoes | |
n.柱廊,(有圆柱的)门廊( portico的名词复数 ) | |
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7 dominion | |
n.统治,管辖,支配权;领土,版图 | |
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8 zealous | |
adj.狂热的,热心的 | |
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9 inscribed | |
v.写,刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 );内接 | |
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10 magistrate | |
n.地方行政官,地方法官,治安官 | |
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11 magistrates | |
地方法官,治安官( magistrate的名词复数 ) | |
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12 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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13 veneration | |
n.尊敬,崇拜 | |
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14 augmenting | |
使扩张 | |
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15 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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16 cardinal | |
n.(天主教的)红衣主教;adj.首要的,基本的 | |
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17 vice | |
n.坏事;恶习;[pl.]台钳,老虎钳;adj.副的 | |
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18 approbation | |
n.称赞;认可 | |
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19 prudent | |
adj.谨慎的,有远见的,精打细算的 | |
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20 expiration | |
n.终结,期满,呼气,呼出物 | |
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21 suite | |
n.一套(家具);套房;随从人员 | |
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22 interfere | |
v.(in)干涉,干预;(with)妨碍,打扰 | |
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23 mortifying | |
adj.抑制的,苦修的v.使受辱( mortify的现在分词 );伤害(人的感情);克制;抑制(肉体、情感等) | |
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24 hemp | |
n.大麻;纤维 | |
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25 industrious | |
adj.勤劳的,刻苦的,奋发的 | |
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26 plentifully | |
adv. 许多地,丰饶地 | |
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27 possessed | |
adj.疯狂的;拥有的,占有的 | |
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28 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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29 lodged | |
v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 );暂住;埋入;(权利、权威等)归属 | |
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30 chambers | |
n.房间( chamber的名词复数 );(议会的)议院;卧室;会议厅 | |
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31 esteemed | |
adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 );敬重;认为;以为 | |
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32 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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33 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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34 philistines | |
n.市侩,庸人( philistine的名词复数 );庸夫俗子 | |
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35 connoisseurs | |
n.鉴赏家,鉴定家,行家( connoisseur的名词复数 ) | |
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36 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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37 unemployed | |
adj.失业的,没有工作的;未动用的,闲置的 | |
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38 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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39 sublimity | |
崇高,庄严,气质高尚 | |
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40 pathos | |
n.哀婉,悲怆 | |
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41 Neptune | |
n.海王星 | |
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42 anatomy | |
n.解剖学,解剖;功能,结构,组织 | |
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43 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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44 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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45 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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46 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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47 extravagantly | |
adv.挥霍无度地 | |
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