The street, called the Corso, is the great scene of these masquerades. It is crowded every night with people of all conditions: Those of rank come in coaches, or in open carriages, made on purpose. A kind of civil war is carried on by the company, as they pass each other. The greatest mark of attention you can shew your friends and acquaintance, is, to throw a handful of little white balls, resembling sugar-plums,[81] full in their faces; and, if they are not deficient12 in politeness, they will instantly return you the compliment. All who wish to make a figure in the Corso, come well supplied in this kind of ammunition13.
Sometimes two or three open carriages, on a side, with five or six persons of both sexes in each, draw up opposite to each other, and fight a pitched battle. On these occasions, the combatants are provided with whole bags full of the small shot above mentioned, which they throw at each other, with much apparent fury, till their ammunition is exhausted14, and the field of battle is as white as snow.
The peculiar15 dresses of every nation of the globe, and of every profession, besides all the fantastic characters usual at masquerades, are to be seen on the Corso. Those of Harlequin and Pantaloon are in great vogue16 among the men. The citizens wives and daughters generally affect the[82] pomp of women of quality; while their brothers, or other relations, appear as train-bearers and attendants. In general, they seem to delight in characters the most remote from their own. Young people assume the long beard, tottering17 step, and other concomitants of old age; the aged18 chuse the bib and rattle19 of childhood; and the women of quality, and women of the town, appear in the characters of country maidens20, nuns21, and vestal virgins23. All endeavour to support the assumed characters, to the best of their ability; but none, in my opinion, succeed so well as those who represent children.
Towards the dusk of the evening, the horse-race takes place. As soon as this is announced, the coaches, cabriolets, triumphal cars, and carriages of every kind, are drawn24 up, and line the street; leaving a space in the middle for the racers to pass. These are five or six horses, trained on[83] purpose for this diversion; they are drawn up a-breast in the Piazza25 del Popolo, exactly where the Corso begins. Certain balls, with little sharp spikes26, are hung along their sides, which serve to spur them on. As soon as they begin to run, those animals, by their impatience27 to be gone, shew that they understand what is required of them, and that they take as much pleasure as the spectators in the sport. A broad piece of canvas, spread across the entrance of the street, prevents them from starting too soon: the dropping that canvas is the signal for the race to begin. The horses fly off together, and, without riders, exert themselves to the utmost; impelled28 by emulation29, the shouts of the populace, and the spurs above mentioned. They run the whole length of the Corso; and the proprietor30 of the victor is rewarded by a certain quantity of fine scarlet31 or purple cloth, which is always furnished by the Jews.
[84]
This diversion, such as it is, seems highly entertaining to the Roman populace; though it appears a mighty32 foolish business in the eyes of Englishmen. An acquaintance of mine, who had entirely33 ruined a fine fortune at Newmarket, told me, that Italian horse-races were the most absurd things in the world; that there were not a hundred guineas lost or won during a whole Carnival; and nothing could be a greater proof of the folly34 of the people, than their spending their time in such a silly manner.
Masking and horse-races are confined to the last eight days; but there are theatrical entertainments, of various kinds, during the whole six weeks of the Carnival. The Serious Opera is most frequented by people of fashion, who generally take boxes for the whole season. The opera, with which this theatre opened, was received with the highest applause, though[85] the music only was new. The Italians do not think it always necessary to compose new words for what is called a new opera; they often satisfy themselves with new music to the affecting dramas of Metastasio. The audience here seem to lend a more profound and continued attention to the music, than at Venice. This is probably owing to the entertainment being a greater rarity in the one city than in the other; for I could perceive that the people of fashion, who came every night, began, after the opera had been repeated several nights, to abate35 in their attention, to receive visitors in their boxes, and to listen only when some favourite airs were singing: whereas the audience in the pit uniformly preserve the most perfect silence, which is only interrupted by gentle murmurs36 of pleasure from a few individuals, or an universal burst of applause from the whole assembly. I never saw such genuine marks of satisfaction displayed by any assembly,[86] on any occasion whatever. The sensibility of some of the audience gave me an idea of the power of sounds, which the dulness of my own auditory nerves could never have conveyed to my mind. At certain airs, silent enjoyment37 was expressed in every countenance38; at others, the hands were clasped together, the eyes half shut, and the breath drawn in, with a prolonged sigh, as if the soul was expiring in a torrent39 of delight. One young woman, in the pit, called out, “O Dio, dove sono! che piacer via caccia l’alma?”
On the first night of the opera, after one of these favourite airs, an universal shout of applause took place, intermingled with demands that the composer of the music should appear. Il Maestro! il Maestro! resounded40 from every corner of the house. He was present, and led the band of music; he was obliged to stand upon the bench, where he continued, bowing to[87] the spectators, till they were tired of applauding him. One person, in the middle of the pit, whom I had remarked displaying great signs of satisfaction from the beginning of the performance, cried out, “He deserves to be made chief musician to the Virgin22, and to lead a choir41 of angels!” This expression would be thought strong, in any country; but it has peculiar energy here, where it is a popular opinion, that the Virgin Mary is very fond, and an excellent judge, of music. I received this information on Christmas morning, when I was looking at two poor Calabrian pipers doing their utmost to please her, and the Infant in her arms. They played for a full hour to one of her images which stands at the corner of a street. All the other statues of the Virgin, which are placed in the streets, are serenaded in the same manner every Christmas morning. On my enquiring42 into the meaning of that ceremony, I was told the above-mentioned[88] circumstance of her character, which, though you may have always thought highly probable, perhaps you never before knew for certain. My informer was a pilgrim, who stood listening with great devotion to the pipers. He told me, at the same time, that the Virgin’s taste was too refined to have much satisfaction in the performance of those poor Calabrians, which was chiefly intended for the Infant; and he desired me to remark, that the tunes43 were plain, simple, and such as might naturally be supposed agreeable to the ear of a child of his time of life.
Though the serious opera is in highest estimation, and more regularly attended by people of the first fashion; yet the opera buffas, or burlettas, are not entirely neglected, even by them, and are crowded, every night, by the middle and lower classes. Some admired singers have performed there during the Carnival, and[89] the musical composers have rendered them highly pleasing to the general taste.
The serious and burlesque44 operas prevail infinitely45 over the other theatrical entertainments at Rome, in spite of the united efforts of Harlequin, Pantaloon, and Punchinello.
The prohibition46 of female performers renders the amusement of the Roman theatre very insipid47, in the opinion of some unrefined Englishmen of your acquaintance who are here. In my own poor opinion, the natural sweetness of the female voice is ill supplied by the artificial trills of wretched castratos; and the aukward agility48 of robust49 sinewy50 fellows dressed in women’s clothes, is a most deplorable substitution for the graceful51 movements of elegant female dancers. Is not the horrid52 practice which is encouraged by this manner of supplying the place of female[90] singers, a greater outrage53 on religion and morality, than can be produced by the evils which their prohibition is intended to prevent? Is it possible to believe, that purity of sentiment will be preserved by producing eunuchs on the stage? I should fear it would have a different effect. At the funeral of Junia, the wife of Cassius, and sister of Brutus, the statues of all the great persons connected with her family by blood or alliance, were carried in procession, except those of her brother and husband. This deficiency struck the people more than any part of the procession, and brought the two illustrious Romans into their minds with more force than if their statues had been carried with the others.—Pr?fulgebant Cassius atque Brutus, says Tacitus, eo ipso, quod effigies54 eorum non visebantur.
点击收听单词发音
1 theatrical | |
adj.剧场的,演戏的;做戏似的,做作的 | |
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2 carnival | |
n.嘉年华会,狂欢,狂欢节,巡回表演 | |
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3 vivacity | |
n.快活,活泼,精神充沛 | |
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4 sprightliness | |
n.愉快,快活 | |
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5 augment | |
vt.(使)增大,增加,增长,扩张 | |
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6 descends | |
v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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7 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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8 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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9 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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10 prescription | |
n.处方,开药;指示,规定 | |
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11 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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12 deficient | |
adj.不足的,不充份的,有缺陷的 | |
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13 ammunition | |
n.军火,弹药 | |
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14 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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15 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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16 Vogue | |
n.时髦,时尚;adj.流行的 | |
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17 tottering | |
adj.蹒跚的,动摇的v.走得或动得不稳( totter的现在分词 );踉跄;蹒跚;摇摇欲坠 | |
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18 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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19 rattle | |
v.飞奔,碰响;激怒;n.碰撞声;拨浪鼓 | |
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20 maidens | |
处女( maiden的名词复数 ); 少女; 未婚女子; (板球运动)未得分的一轮投球 | |
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21 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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22 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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23 virgins | |
处女,童男( virgin的名词复数 ); 童贞玛利亚(耶稣之母) | |
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24 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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25 piazza | |
n.广场;走廊 | |
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26 spikes | |
n.穗( spike的名词复数 );跑鞋;(防滑)鞋钉;尖状物v.加烈酒于( spike的第三人称单数 );偷偷地给某人的饮料加入(更多)酒精( 或药物);把尖状物钉入;打乱某人的计划 | |
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27 impatience | |
n.不耐烦,急躁 | |
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28 impelled | |
v.推动、推进或敦促某人做某事( impel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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29 emulation | |
n.竞争;仿效 | |
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30 proprietor | |
n.所有人;业主;经营者 | |
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31 scarlet | |
n.深红色,绯红色,红衣;adj.绯红色的 | |
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32 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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33 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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34 folly | |
n.愚笨,愚蠢,蠢事,蠢行,傻话 | |
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35 abate | |
vi.(风势,疼痛等)减弱,减轻,减退 | |
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36 murmurs | |
n.低沉、连续而不清的声音( murmur的名词复数 );低语声;怨言;嘀咕 | |
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37 enjoyment | |
n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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38 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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39 torrent | |
n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
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40 resounded | |
v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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41 choir | |
n.唱诗班,唱诗班的席位,合唱团,舞蹈团;v.合唱 | |
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42 enquiring | |
a.爱打听的,显得好奇的 | |
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43 tunes | |
n.曲调,曲子( tune的名词复数 )v.调音( tune的第三人称单数 );调整;(给收音机、电视等)调谐;使协调 | |
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44 burlesque | |
v.嘲弄,戏仿;n.嘲弄,取笑,滑稽模仿 | |
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45 infinitely | |
adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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46 prohibition | |
n.禁止;禁令,禁律 | |
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47 insipid | |
adj.无味的,枯燥乏味的,单调的 | |
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48 agility | |
n.敏捷,活泼 | |
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49 robust | |
adj.强壮的,强健的,粗野的,需要体力的,浓的 | |
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50 sinewy | |
adj.多腱的,强壮有力的 | |
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51 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
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52 horrid | |
adj.可怕的;令人惊恐的;恐怖的;极讨厌的 | |
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53 outrage | |
n.暴行,侮辱,愤怒;vt.凌辱,激怒 | |
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54 effigies | |
n.(人的)雕像,模拟像,肖像( effigy的名词复数 ) | |
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