We had the good fortune to find at Bologna Sir William and Lady H——, Mr. F——t, Mr. K——, Lord L——, and Sir H—— F——n. Our original intention was to have proceeded without delay to Milan, but on such an agreeable meeting it was impossible not to remain a few days at Bologna.
I went to the academy on the day of distributing the prizes for the best specimens1 and designs in painting, sculpture,[432] and architecture; a discourse2 in praise of the fine arts was pronounced by one of the professors, who took that opportunity of enumerating3 the fine qualities of the Cardinal4 Legate; none of the virtues5, great or small, were omitted on the occasion; all were attributed in the superlative degree to this accomplished7 prince of the church. The learned orator8 acknowledged, however, that this panegyric9 did not properly belong to his subject, but hoped that the audience, and particularly the Legate himself, who was present, would forgive him, in consideration that the eulogy10 had been wrung11 from him by the irresistible12 force of truth. The same force drew forth13 something similar in praise of the Gonfalonier and other magistrates14 who were present also; and what you may think very remarkable15, the number and importance of the qualities attributed to those distinguished16 persons kept an exact proportion with their rank. Power in this happy city seems to have been[433] weighed in the scales of justice, and distributed by the hand of wisdom. All the inferior magistrates, we were informed, are very worthy17 men, endowed with many excellent qualities; the Gonfalonier has many more, and the Legate possesses every virtue6 under the sun. If the Pope had entered the room, the too lavish18 professor would not have been able to help him to a single morsel19 of praise which had not been already served up.
This town is at present quite full of strangers, who came to assist at the procession of Corpus Domini. The Duke of Parma, several Cardinals20, and other persons of high distinction, besides a prodigious21 crowd of citizens, attended this great festival. The streets through which the Host was carried under a magnificent canopy22, were adorned23 with tapestry24, paintings, looking-glasses, and all the various kinds of finery which the inhabitants could produce. Many of the[434] paintings seemed unsuitable to the occasion; they were on profane25, and some of them on wanton subjects; and it appeared extraordinary to see the figures of Venus, Minerva, Apollo, Jupiter, and others of that abdicated26 family, arranged along the walls in honour of a triumph of the Corpus Christi.
On our way to Milan we stopped a short time at Modena, the capital of the duchy of that name. The whole duchy is about fifty miles in length, and twenty-six in breadth; the town contains twenty thousand inhabitants; the streets are in general large, straight, and ornamented27 with porticoes28. This city is surrounded by a fortification, and farther secured by a citadel29; it was anciently rendered famous by the siege which Decimus Brutus sustained here against Marc Antony.
We proceeded next to Parma, a beautiful town, considerably30 larger than Modena,[435] and defended, like it, by a citadel and regular fortification. The streets are well built, broad, and regular. The town is divided unequally by the little river Parma, which loses itself in the Po, ten or twelve miles from this city.
The theatre is the largest of any in Europe; and consequently a great deal larger than there is any occasion for. Every body has observed, that it is so favourable31 to the voice, that a whisper from the stage is heard all over this immense house; but nobody tells us on what circumstance in the construction this surprising effect depends.
The Modenese was the native country of Correggio, but he passed most of his life at Parma. Several of the churches are ornamented by the pencil of that great artist, particularly the cupola of the cathedral; the painting of which has been so greatly admired for the grandeur32 of the design and the boldness of the fore-shortenings. It is[436] now spoiled in such a manner, that its principal beauties are not easily distinguished.
Some of the best pictures in the Ducal Palace have been removed to Naples and elsewhere; but the famous picture of the Virgin33, in which Mary Magdalen and St. Jerom are introduced, still remains34. In this composition, Correggio has been thought to have united, in a supreme35 degree, beauties which are seldom found in the same piece; an excellence36 in any one of which has been sufficient to raise other artists to celebrity37. The same connoisseurs38 assert, that this picture is equally worthy of admiration39, on account of the freshness of the colouring, the inexpressible gracefulness40 of the design, and the exquisite41 tenderness of the expression. After I had heard all those fine things said over and over again, I thought I had nothing to do but admire; and I had prepared my mind accordingly.—Would to Heaven that the respectable body[437] of connoisseurs were agreed in opinion, and I should most readily submit mine to theirs! But while the above eulogium still resounded42 in my ears, other connoisseurs have asserted, that this picture is full of affectation; that the shadowing is of a dirty brown, the attitude of the Magdalen constrained43 and unnatural44; that she may strive to the end of time without ever being able to kiss the foot of the infant Jesus in her present position; that she has the look of an ideot; and that the Virgin herself is but a vulgar figure, and seems not a great deal wiser; that the angels have a ridiculous simper, and most abominable45 air of affectation; and finally, that St. Jerom has the appearance of a sturdy beggar, who intrudes46 his brawny47 figure where it has no right to be.
Distracted with such opposite sentiments, what can a plain man do, who has no great reliance on his own judgment48, and wishes to give offence to neither party? I shall leave the picture as I found it, to answer[438] for itself, with a single remark in favour of the angels. I cannot take upon me to say how the real angels of heaven look; but I certainly have seen some earthly angels, of my acquaintance, assume the simper and air of those in this picture, when they wished to appear quite celestial49.
The duchies of Modena, Parma, and Placentia, are exceedingly fertile. The soil is naturally rich, and the climate being moister here than in many other parts of Italy, produces more plentiful50 pasturage for cattle. The road runs over a continued plain, among meadows and corn fields, divided by rows of trees, from whose branches the vines hang in beautiful festoons. We had the pleasure of thinking, as we drove along, that the peasants are not deprived of the blessings51 of the smiling fertility among which they live. They had in general a neat, contented52, and cheerful appearance. The women are successfully attentive53 to the ornaments54 of dress,[439] which is never the case amidst oppressive poverty.
Notwithstanding the fertility of the country around it, the town of Placentia itself is but thinly inhabited, and seems to be in a state of decay. What first strike a stranger on entering this city, are two equestrian55 statues, in bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna; they stand in the principal square, before the Town-house. The best of the two represents that consummate56 general Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma and Placentia, who commanded the army of Philip II. in the Netherlands. The inscription57 on the pedestal mentions his having relieved the city of Paris, when called to the assistance of the League into France, where his great military skill, and cool intrepidity58, enabled him to baffle all the ardent59 impetuosity of the gallant60 Henry. He was certainly worthy of a better master, and of serving in a better cause. We cannot, without regret, behold61 a Prince, of[440] the Duke of Parma’s talents and character, supporting the pride of an unrelenting tyrant62, and the rancour of furious fanatics63.
Except the Ducal Palace, and some pictures in the churches, which I dare swear you will cordially forgive me for passing over undescribed, I believe there is not a great deal in this city worthy of attention; at all events I can say little about them, as we remained here only a few hours during the heat of the day, and set out the same evening for Milan.
点击收听单词发音
1 specimens | |
n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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2 discourse | |
n.论文,演说;谈话;话语;vi.讲述,著述 | |
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3 enumerating | |
v.列举,枚举,数( enumerate的现在分词 ) | |
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4 cardinal | |
n.(天主教的)红衣主教;adj.首要的,基本的 | |
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5 virtues | |
美德( virtue的名词复数 ); 德行; 优点; 长处 | |
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6 virtue | |
n.德行,美德;贞操;优点;功效,效力 | |
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7 accomplished | |
adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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8 orator | |
n.演说者,演讲者,雄辩家 | |
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9 panegyric | |
n.颂词,颂扬 | |
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10 eulogy | |
n.颂词;颂扬 | |
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11 wrung | |
绞( wring的过去式和过去分词 ); 握紧(尤指别人的手); 把(湿衣服)拧干; 绞掉(水) | |
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12 irresistible | |
adj.非常诱人的,无法拒绝的,无法抗拒的 | |
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13 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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14 magistrates | |
地方法官,治安官( magistrate的名词复数 ) | |
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15 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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16 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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17 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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18 lavish | |
adj.无节制的;浪费的;vt.慷慨地给予,挥霍 | |
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19 morsel | |
n.一口,一点点 | |
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20 cardinals | |
红衣主教( cardinal的名词复数 ); 红衣凤头鸟(见于北美,雄鸟为鲜红色); 基数 | |
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21 prodigious | |
adj.惊人的,奇妙的;异常的;巨大的;庞大的 | |
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22 canopy | |
n.天篷,遮篷 | |
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23 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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24 tapestry | |
n.挂毯,丰富多采的画面 | |
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25 profane | |
adj.亵神的,亵渎的;vt.亵渎,玷污 | |
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26 abdicated | |
放弃(职责、权力等)( abdicate的过去式和过去分词 ); 退位,逊位 | |
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27 ornamented | |
adj.花式字体的v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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28 porticoes | |
n.柱廊,(有圆柱的)门廊( portico的名词复数 ) | |
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29 citadel | |
n.城堡;堡垒;避难所 | |
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30 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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31 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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32 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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33 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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34 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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35 supreme | |
adj.极度的,最重要的;至高的,最高的 | |
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36 excellence | |
n.优秀,杰出,(pl.)优点,美德 | |
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37 celebrity | |
n.名人,名流;著名,名声,名望 | |
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38 connoisseurs | |
n.鉴赏家,鉴定家,行家( connoisseur的名词复数 ) | |
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39 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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40 gracefulness | |
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41 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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42 resounded | |
v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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43 constrained | |
adj.束缚的,节制的 | |
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44 unnatural | |
adj.不自然的;反常的 | |
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45 abominable | |
adj.可厌的,令人憎恶的 | |
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46 intrudes | |
v.侵入,侵扰,打扰( intrude的第三人称单数 );把…强加于 | |
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47 brawny | |
adj.强壮的 | |
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48 judgment | |
n.审判;判断力,识别力,看法,意见 | |
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49 celestial | |
adj.天体的;天上的 | |
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50 plentiful | |
adj.富裕的,丰富的 | |
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51 blessings | |
n.(上帝的)祝福( blessing的名词复数 );好事;福分;因祸得福 | |
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52 contented | |
adj.满意的,安心的,知足的 | |
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53 attentive | |
adj.注意的,专心的;关心(别人)的,殷勤的 | |
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54 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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55 equestrian | |
adj.骑马的;n.马术 | |
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56 consummate | |
adj.完美的;v.成婚;使完美 [反]baffle | |
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57 inscription | |
n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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58 intrepidity | |
n.大胆,刚勇;大胆的行为 | |
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59 ardent | |
adj.热情的,热烈的,强烈的,烈性的 | |
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60 gallant | |
adj.英勇的,豪侠的;(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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61 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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62 tyrant | |
n.暴君,专制的君主,残暴的人 | |
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63 fanatics | |
狂热者,入迷者( fanatic的名词复数 ) | |
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