We came to the margin3 of the unmelted snow and followed a track for about a mile, and then my companion began to complain that his feet were getting 205frozen, and I told him that if I was now on the right track I could dispense4 with him; he might go back. This evidently he was glad to do. I paid him a rouble in small change, every coin of which he said was bad, and we had to test them separately on a bit of rock before he would be satisfied. We then exchanged presents, blessed one another and parted.
I was walking on a white carpet apparently5 boundless6. To right and to left and ahead the rocks lifted themselves aloft in white masses. In the sky the clouds, torn as by storm winds, rushed hither and thither7, now veiling the peaks and now the road, or filtering upward and downward at the neck of the pass. Here is the place where the weather is manufactured and shared out between north and south. The sky promised everything on the shipman’s card. The sun suddenly shone out and flashed over all the snow with blinding brilliance8, and then almost as suddenly became overcast9 as a foaming10 wave of cloud was tossed over it. I began to fear that the mists might hinder my crossing, or keep me waiting for hours on the desert of snow, afraid to go forward.
The ascent11 became more arduous12. The snow was softer, and the surface not frozen hard enough to bear me. At every third step I sank to the knee; the staff the shepherd had given me saved me once or twice, but I could never tell when I should be upborne by the snow and when I should sink. After half a mile of this I 206stopped and gasped13. I thought I couldn’t get on. Storm, however, threatened. I must go on. I took another step and sank as deep as it is possible for one leg to go. In pulling myself out I fell on one shoulder and almost went out of sight. It was like the hindered progress in a nightmare. I must have rested ten minutes before I set forward again, and walked fifty yards by three steps and a fall irregularly along the faint track. I felt like Dorando at the finish of his race at Earl’s Court.
An hour’s struggle brought me to the Southern Shelter, a military station cold and uninviting, but even so a delight to my eyes, a very oasis14 in the wilderness15. I saw no one there, and therefore did not stop. It seemed to me I must soon reach the summit. I was, however, destined16 to disappointment. The track now led up a steep bank, a weary way. I was constantly up to the waist in snow, and not a step that I took seemed to grip or take me appreciably17 forward. To add to the difficulties, the snow of last night’s storm had almost completely effaced18 the track; it was only with the greatest difficulty that the eye discerned and traced the way. One false step and I should have gone slithering over the snow into the abyss like a riderless sledge19. The clouds above my head massed and the snow-flakes hurried down. I sat down on my travelling-bed and surveyed the grim, silent snowstorm; to me it was then a dreadful sight, and I began to ask myself if this would 207not perhaps turn out to be my last upon this bright world. A flash of lightning and the long roll of thunder quickened my fears. I started up again and battled forward. It was an almost heart-breaking business truly. Every ten yards I came to a standstill with heart palpitations, caused partly, perhaps, by the rarity of the atmosphere—I suppose at nine thousand feet the atmosphere is rarer—but caused in most part, without doubt, by my exertions20; and my sunburnt hands had become violet in colour. All about me the storm raged and the mist hid the crest21 of the pass.
The thunder rolled once more, and then unexpectedly the sun shone through the snow-flakes. The veiled mountains looked like workmen disturbed while up to their eyes in some job. I looked along my way to the crest of the mountain. It seemed to lead right up into the sky. It would have been an ideal road for the poet Davidson. I whispered to myself his lines:
“Alone I climb
Then, after what seemed ages of slow dying, I saw in front of me the cross which marks the highest point of the pass. I did the impossible; I reached that cross. The reader may imagine the bliss23 I experienced sitting on my waterproof24 at its foot. Even if I perished in the descent I had now been a victor; henceforth there were no more Alps.
Downward was not so difficult. I even ran as if on 208skis till I realised the danger of breaking my legs. It was a delightful25 contrast, however, the slipping downhill, the falling, jumping, plunging26 downward. My heart was light.
I had not descended27 five hundred feet before I saw an extraordinary sight—a hanging, frozen avalanche28 waiting for the snow, a long, high wall of fixed29 but sliding snow frozen and glittering, myriadfold icicled, and not white but pale green. Seen from below the long pale-green wall looked ominous30 beyond words. A new danger now presented itself to my mind—that of being swept away by falling snow—and suddenly this was emphasised. I heard a long, low, sullen31 roar that could not be thunder, but which I could not locate. It was followed by a second which seemed an echo, and by a third. Then, looking to a peak, I saw the cause of one, a falling drift of snow. I saw the slow-moving white descending32, descending, and then suddenly splashing over the cliff in brown mud. Fast after and before followed the stones. The danger from falling drifts was imminent33, and I kept my eyes open. The storm cleared. The bell was not ringing at the bell-house, and I did not stay there. On my way down I met a man toiling34 upward, and I felt exceedingly overjoyed, and thought to talk with him, but he was pale as a ghost and utterly35 exhausted36. Beyond greeting, and an inquiry37 as to the state of the road, I got no further word from him.
209In half an hour I was out of the snow on to the black road, and presently I came to the first village on the north side. The inhabitants all gathered round me and stared, and asked where I had come from and congratulated me. One old man in particular shook hands with me, effusively38 calling me molodetse, “fine fellow,” and everyone seemed to combine to smile upon me. I was happy. One thing, however, was wanting—food. The village could only supply me with cold copatchka and salt.
点击收听单词发音
1 marsh | |
n.沼泽,湿地 | |
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2 backwards | |
adv.往回地,向原处,倒,相反,前后倒置地 | |
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3 margin | |
n.页边空白;差额;余地,余裕;边,边缘 | |
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4 dispense | |
vt.分配,分发;配(药),发(药);实施 | |
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5 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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6 boundless | |
adj.无限的;无边无际的;巨大的 | |
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7 thither | |
adv.向那里;adj.在那边的,对岸的 | |
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8 brilliance | |
n.光辉,辉煌,壮丽,(卓越的)才华,才智 | |
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9 overcast | |
adj.阴天的,阴暗的,愁闷的;v.遮盖,(使)变暗,包边缝;n.覆盖,阴天 | |
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10 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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11 ascent | |
n.(声望或地位)提高;上升,升高;登高 | |
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12 arduous | |
adj.艰苦的,费力的,陡峭的 | |
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13 gasped | |
v.喘气( gasp的过去式和过去分词 );喘息;倒抽气;很想要 | |
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14 oasis | |
n.(沙漠中的)绿洲,宜人的地方 | |
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15 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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16 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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17 appreciably | |
adv.相当大地 | |
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18 effaced | |
v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 );抹去;超越;使黯然失色 | |
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19 sledge | |
n.雪橇,大锤;v.用雪橇搬运,坐雪橇往 | |
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20 exertions | |
n.努力( exertion的名词复数 );费力;(能力、权力等的)运用;行使 | |
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21 crest | |
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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22 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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23 bliss | |
n.狂喜,福佑,天赐的福 | |
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24 waterproof | |
n.防水材料;adj.防水的;v.使...能防水 | |
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25 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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26 plunging | |
adj.跳进的,突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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27 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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28 avalanche | |
n.雪崩,大量涌来 | |
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29 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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30 ominous | |
adj.不祥的,不吉的,预兆的,预示的 | |
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31 sullen | |
adj.愠怒的,闷闷不乐的,(天气等)阴沉的 | |
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32 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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33 imminent | |
adj.即将发生的,临近的,逼近的 | |
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34 toiling | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的现在分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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35 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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36 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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37 inquiry | |
n.打听,询问,调查,查问 | |
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38 effusively | |
adv.变溢地,热情洋溢地 | |
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