The ancient town of Bridgwater can now produce few evidences of its antiquity2. The siege of 1645, various conflagrations3, and the very considerable modern prosperity of the place have all been contributory causes toward this—to the tourist—somewhat desolating4 result. The town straddles on either side of the Parret, the hither side named appropriately and inevitably5 “Eastover.” It is the less considerable and important portion, the chief buildings of the place being on the left bank of the river. A dull, undistinguished, heavy Georgian appearance characterised the town until quite recently, but a great deal of building activity has of late been manifested here, with results perhaps as yet a little too recent for criticism. At any rate, the old outstanding features remain; the large parish church, with curiously7 squat8 tower and elongated9 spire10, forming with the Corn Exchange and Town Hall, the one striking group that alone stands in pictures recognisably for Bridgwater.
A great deal of argument has been expended11 127upon the name of Bridgwater. The name is apparently12 of the most obvious and elementary derivation, for here is the “water” (largely impregnated, it is true, with mud) in the river Parret, and here is the bridge, the modern representative of others of different degrees of antiquity, erected13 at the lowest place down the estuary14 where it was possible to fling a bridge across. It is evident, then, that it must ever have been impossible to enter or leave the town in an easterly or westerly direction without crossing a bridge or ferry at this point. Other place-names in the district, those of Highbridge and Boroughbridge, for example, prove the word “bridge” to have been used in the ordinary way, when necessary, as an integral, and indeed scarcely avoidable, part of a name. Yet the derivation of “Bridgwater” has nothing to do, explicitly15, with water, although “Brugge,” i.e. Bridge, the name of the place at the time of the Conquest, certainly implies water beneath. The manor16 was given, after the Conquest, to one of the Conqueror’s Norman barons17, Walter of Douai, and became therefrom known as “Brugie of Walter” and by degrees, by a natural elision of letters readily dropped in ordinary speech, what it is now.
BIRTHPLACE OF ADMIRAL BLAKE
Of the Castle of Bridgwater, once a strong fortress18, both by virtue19 of its own stout20 walls, and by reason of the fine position it held at the crossing of the Parret, nothing is left, except portions of the Water Gate, on the West Quay21, 128and the cellars of what is now the Custom House. The last occasion of its appearance in history was the shameful22 surrender of it to a besieging23 army under Fairfax, on July 23rd, 1645, after a two days’ assault. It had been so generally considered impregnable that the wealthy Royalists of the countryside, afraid for the safety of their jewellery and other valuables, had sent them hither from what they thought to be the insecurity of their own houses. Thus the taking of the impregnable castle and the surrender of the invincible24 129garrison resulted in exceptionally heavy spoils, amounting to ￡100,000 value.
Bridgwater boasts one famous son; Robert Blake, the great Admiral, or rather, General-at-Sea, of the Commonwealth25, who taught foreign nations in general, and the Dutch in particular, who wanted the lesson badly, the respect due to England. His birthplace is still standing6 in this his native town, in a quiet byway, where tall, staid eighteenth-century merchants’ residences look down, as it were with a certain condescension27, upon the less imposing28 house in which the hero was first introduced to a troubled world, in 1599. It is a comfortable, rather than a stately, house; but it was built to last. It is the oldest house now remaining in the town, and was probably built in the early years of the sixteenth century, the interior disclosing a greater antiquity than would be suspected from the frontage. Huge, roughly squared oak timbers frame the walls and cross the ceilings with immense rafters. They had been all carefully covered up some generations ago, and their existence hidden by plaster and wall-papering; but recent repairs of the house have resulted in all this honest construction being again disclosed; and very noble, in the rugged30 old way, it looks. During the progress of these repairs and alterations31, the plaster on the walls of an upper room was found to have been liberally scratched and otherwise drawn32 upon at a period contemporary with Admiral Blake. Sketches33 of ships were prominent among 130these rough sgraffiti: ships built and rigged in a manner characteristic of the seventeenth century, and the words “Rex Carolus” appeared among them. It was necessary, for the repair of the walls, to cover up most of these sketches, but the best have been carefully preserved.
Robert Blake’s father was a merchant, with more children (a round dozen of them) than business. His mother came of an old landed family; the Williamses of Planesfield. Robert himself was sent to Oxford34 and was in residence there, chiefly at Wadham College, fifteen years, wishful of becoming a Fellow, but finally balked35 of that ambition for an easeful life. It is curious to contemplate36 that old possibility of this stout man of war having ever become a cloistral37 butt38 of futile39 learning, of the peculiar40 brand of futility41 affected42 by Oxford.
His father died, leaving but an insignificant43 sum to be divided among his many children, and Robert, with strong Republican views, was returned to Parliament for his native town of Bridgwater. Events were moving rapidly towards Civil War, and in the outbreak of that momentous44 struggle many men found at last their vocation45. Among them was Blake, whose great defence of Taunton town against the Royalist siege in 1645 was one of the most dogged and successful incidents of that time. Encompassed46 by ten thousand men and his ammunition47 all shot away, food exhausted48, and a breach49 actually made in the walls and the enemy swarming50 through it; still 131he would not yield, and declared he would eat his boots first. Fortunately the rumour51 of Fairfax’s relieving army at that moment spread among the besiegers, and the siege was raised, else Blake would have had a full and an unappetising meal before him, as any one who contemplates52 his statue here, and the great thigh-boots he is wearing, may judge for himself.
At the establishment of the Commonwealth, Blake was given high command at sea: a military man afloat as Admiral; a thing in our own highly specialised times unthinkable. His complete success in that new environment is a part of our history that need not be recounted here. After many inconclusive duels53 with the Dutch, who, under Van Tromp, disputed the sovereignty of the seas, and after brilliant services abroad, Blake died while yet in what may be termed the prime of life, of an intermittent54 fever, and probably also from an exhaustion55 induced by old wounds, on board his flagship, off Plymouth, in 1657. With his death disappeared one of the few entirely56 honest Republicans of that time: a man that England could then ill spare, as the nation was to find but ten years later, when the Dutch fully29 revenged themselves for former reverses by their historic raid up the Medway and destruction of English ships off Chatham.
After many years, Bridgwater has at last honoured itself and the memory of this great man with a statue, placed prominently in front of the Corn Exchange. He is represented in the military 132costume of the time, with a short, wind-blown cloak flying from his shoulders, pointing into space. It is a pose admirably chosen, and every line of this fine bronze figure expresses the courage, zeal57, and bull-dog determination characteristic of the man. Bronze panels in relief on the plinth represent Blake’s fleet off Portland, February 1653; the capture of Santa Cruz, April 20th, 1657; and Blake’s body brought into Plymouth Sound, August 7th, 1657. This appropriate couplet from Spenser is added:
Sleepe after toyle, port after stormy seas,
Ease after war, death after life, doth greatly please.
Bridgwater church has its place in history, for it was from the battlements of this tower that the ill-fated Monmouth looked forth58 upon the plain of Sedgemoor, just before the battle that was to decide his fortunes.
Nothing in the long story of the West so stirs the blood as the incidents of the disastrous60 expedition captained by this handsome, ambitious, and well-liked son of Charles II. It was a generous enterprise—if at the same time not without its great personal reward, if successful—to attempt the saving of England from the domination of Popery that again threatened her; and it deserved a better conclusion than that recorded by history.
BRIDGWATER: ST. MARY’S CHURCH, AND CORN EXCHANGE.
It was three weeks after the landing of Monmouth at Lyme Regis, on the coast of Dorset, that he arrived at Bridgwater. Three thousand men had flocked to him on his landing, and by 133the time he had reached Taunton, the enthusiasm was such that his forces were more than doubled, and numbered seven thousand. But his was an undisciplined and untrained mob, rather than an army, and a fiery61 religious fervour, ready to dare anything for Protestantism, was an ill equipment with which to contend against the trained troops of James the Second, hastening down to oppose their march. This was essentially62 a popular rebellion, for the influential63 gentry64 of the West, although ill-affected towards the reactionary65 rule of King James and willing enough to end his reign26, hesitated to join, and by their cowardice66 lost the day. While they timorously67 waited on events, the peasantry showed a bolder front, and chiefly through their sturdy conduct, Monmouth’s advance through Dorset and Somerset had been by no means without incident in the warlike sort. His rustics68, badly armed though they were, and largely with agricultural implements70 instead of weapons of offence, gave with their billhooks, their pikes, and scythes71, an excellent account of themselves against the Royalist regulars commanded by Lord Feversham in the hotly contested skirmish at Norton St. Philip on June 26th.
It was, perhaps, in some measure the unaccustomed weapons used by Monmouth’s countrymen that alarmed Feversham’s soldiers and gained that day for the rebel Duke, for even men trained to arms lose much of their courage when confronted with strange, even though, it 134may be, inferior weapons. But it was still more the valour of the Somerset rustics that won the day on that occasion for Faith and Freedom.
Had Monmouth followed up his advantage, the wavering sympathies of the West of England gentry might have thrown fresh levies72 into the field for his cause; but he retired73 upon the then defenceless town of Bridgwater, and remained inactive.
WESTONZOYLAND.
Now, there is nothing that more disheartens untrained men than a check in their forward march. Countermarching to them appears but the forerunner74 of defeat, and the flow of ardour in any cause once hindered is difficult to recover. With regular troops the chances and changes incidental to campaigning inure75 them to disappointments, and the retreat of to-day they know often to be but the prelude76 of to-morrow’s advance. But with Monmouth’s men, their leader’s plan once altered, their fortunes seemed irretrievably clouded. Monmouth himself grew gloomy at the delay the vacillations of himself and his lieutenants77 had caused, and when on the afternoon of Sunday, July 5th, he ascended78 to this point to reconnoitre the position his opponents had taken up in the midst of the moor59, his heart sank. He saw the glint of their arms, the colours of the regiments79 drawn up beneath the shadow of the tall tower of Westonzoyland, and he well knew that a conflict between them and his brave, but untaught, peasants could only prove fatal to his ambitions. He had, some years before, led those 135very soldiers to victory. “I know those men,” said he to his officers, leaning over these parapets of St. Mary’s; “they will fight!”
By a circuitous80 route, his army left the town of Bridgwater when night was come and darkness had shrouded81 the moor. By narrow and rugged lanes they went, past Chedzoy, towards the Polden Hills. Here they turned, and, led by a guide, essayed to thread the maze82 of deep ditches called, in the parlance83 of the West Country, “Rhines.”
It was not until two o’clock in the morning that they had reached within striking distance of the Royal troops, crossing safely the Black Ditch, and moving along the outer side of the Langmoor Rhine, in search of a passage, when a pistol was fired, either by accident or treachery. “A Dark night,” says one who was present, “and Thick Fogg covering the Moore.” The darkness and the sudden alarm caused by the pistol-shot threw Monmouth’s men into confusion, and the Royal forces were at the same time aroused. The night attack had failed.
James II.’s troops challenged the masses of men they saw dimly advancing through the mist, and were for a time deceived by the answering cry of “Albemarle,” the name of the Royalist commander, who was supposed to be coming to the support of Lord Feversham.
And thus the Monmouth men passed on to the Bussex Rhine, where they were simultaneously84 challenged and fired upon by another outpost. Dismayed by this volley at close quarters, the 136rebel horse, forming the advance, broke and dashed wildly back into the stolid85 ranks of the peasantry. It says much for the stubborn courage of those ploughmen and hedgers and ditchers who formed the bulk of the Duke’s ranks, that in this confusion they stood fast.
Then the fight began in earnest, chiefly hand-to-hand, beside the broad and stagnant86 Rhine, in whose noisome87 mud many a stout fellow met his death that night. It was not until day dawned across the moor that the last band of rustic69 pikemen broke and fled before the King’s battalions88, pouring across the Bussex Rhine.
Hours before, under cover of the night, the rebel Duke had fled the spot with Lord Grey and thirty horsemen. It had been a better thing had he halted and been cut to pieces with his brave followers89. His had then been a nobler figure in history.
He had looked with the ill-disguised contempt of an old campaigner upon his doomed90 rustics. Urged to make a last effort to support them, he said bitterly: “All the world cannot stop those fellows; they will run presently”—and ran himself. The shattered remnants of his raw ranks poured confusedly into Bridgwater town, soon after daylight was come. At first the townsfolk thought them but the wounded stragglers from a great victory, and shouted, with caps flying in air, for “King Monmouth.” Then the dreadful truth spread abroad from the lips of wounded and dying men, and those who had 137cheered for the flying leader hid themselves, or fled on their own account. Three thousand of the rebels lay slain91 upon the field.
Swift and terrible was the punishment meted92 out to the unhappy victims of Monmouth’s ill-starred rising. The moorland, the towns and villages throughout the counties of Somerset and Dorset, were made ghastly with the bodies and quarters of the rebels executed and hanged in gimmaces, or fixed93 on posts by the entrances to the village churches; and the shocking judicial94 progress of the infamous95 Judge Jeffreys, is aptly commemorated96 in the popular name of the “Bloody Assize.” The Duke of Monmouth, captured at Woodyates, was beheaded on Tower Hill, after an abject97 appeal for mercy had been refused, on July 15th.
Lost causes always appeal to the imagination more eloquently98 than those that have gained their objects, and the Monmouth Rebellion is no exception. The enthusiasm aroused by the handsome presence and gallant100 bearing of this gay and careless son of Charles II. and Lucy Walters, still finds an echo in the West, in the sympathy felt for his tragic101 end and for the temporary eclipse of the Protestant cause. This interest lends itself to the whole of the level country behind Bridgwater, the flat, dyke-intersected, alluvial102 plain of Sedgemoor. The Bussex Rhine, one of the original dykes103, has long since been filled up, and more modern ditches cut for the better draining of the district; but the spot 138where the battle was fought can still be exactly identified. It lies half a mile to the north of Westonzoyland, whose rugged church tower overlooks the greater part of the moor, topping the withies, the poplars, and the apple-orchards of the village with grand effect. In that stately church five hundred of the rebels were imprisoned104 before trial. A little distance from the site of the Bussex Rhine is the Langmoor Rhine, and, near by, Brentsfield Bridge, where the Duke’s men crossed. The village people of Chedzoy still show the enquiring105 stranger that stone in the church wall on which the pikes were sharpened before the fight, and the plough even now occasionally turns up rusty106 sword-hilts, bullets, and other eloquent99 memorials of that futile struggle. But the silken banner, worked by the Fair Maids of Taunton, where is it, with its proud motto, Pro1 Religione et Libertate? and where the memorial that should mark this fatal field whereon so many stalwart West-countrymen laid down their lives for their faith?
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pro
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| n.赞成，赞成的意见，赞成者 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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conflagrations
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| n.大火（灾）( conflagration的名词复数 ) | |
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desolating
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| 毁坏( desolate的现在分词 )； 极大地破坏； 使沮丧； 使痛苦 | |
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inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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squat
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| v.蹲坐，蹲下；n.蹲下；adj.矮胖的，粗矮的 | |
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elongated
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| v.延长，加长( elongate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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expended
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| v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 )；使用（钱等）做某事；用光；耗尽 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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estuary
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| n.河口，江口 | |
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explicitly
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| ad.明确地，显然地 | |
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manor
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| n.庄园，领地 | |
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barons
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| 男爵( baron的名词复数 )； 巨头； 大王； 大亨 | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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shameful
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| adj.可耻的，不道德的 | |
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besieging
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的现在分词 ) | |
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invincible
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| adj.不可征服的，难以制服的 | |
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commonwealth
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| n.共和国，联邦，共同体 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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condescension
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| n.自以为高人一等，贬低(别人) | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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alterations
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| n.改动( alteration的名词复数 )；更改；变化；改变 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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balked
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| v.畏缩不前，犹豫( balk的过去式和过去分词 )；（指马）不肯跑 | |
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contemplate
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| vt.盘算，计议；周密考虑；注视，凝视 | |
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cloistral
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butt
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| n.笑柄；烟蒂；枪托；臀部；v.用头撞或顶 | |
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futile
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| adj.无效的，无用的，无希望的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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futility
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| n.无用 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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momentous
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| adj.重要的，重大的 | |
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vocation
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| n.职业，行业 | |
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encompassed
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| v.围绕( encompass的过去式和过去分词 )；包围；包含；包括 | |
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ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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breach
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| n.违反，不履行；破裂；vt.冲破，攻破 | |
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swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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rumour
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| n.谣言，谣传，传闻 | |
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contemplates
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的第三人称单数 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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duels
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| n.两男子的决斗( duel的名词复数 )；竞争，斗争 | |
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intermittent
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| adj.间歇的，断断续续的 | |
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exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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zeal
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| n.热心，热情，热忱 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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moor
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| n.荒野，沼泽；vt.(使)停泊；vi.停泊 | |
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disastrous
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| adj.灾难性的，造成灾害的；极坏的，很糟的 | |
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fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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essentially
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| adv.本质上，实质上，基本上 | |
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influential
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| adj.有影响的，有权势的 | |
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gentry
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| n.绅士阶级，上层阶级 | |
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reactionary
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| n.反动者，反动主义者；adj.反动的，反动主义的，反对改革的 | |
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cowardice
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| n.胆小，怯懦 | |
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timorously
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| adv.胆怯地，羞怯地 | |
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rustics
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| n.有农村或村民特色的( rustic的名词复数 )；粗野的；不雅的；用粗糙的木材或树枝制作的 | |
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69
rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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implements
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| n.工具( implement的名词复数 )；家具；手段；[法律]履行（契约等）v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 )；执行；贯彻；使生效 | |
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71
scythes
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| n.（长柄）大镰刀( scythe的名词复数 )v.（长柄）大镰刀( scythe的第三人称单数 ) | |
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72
levies
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| （部队）征兵( levy的名词复数 )； 募捐； 被征募的军队 | |
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73
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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forerunner
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| n.前身，先驱（者），预兆，祖先 | |
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75
inure
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| v.使惯于 | |
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76
prelude
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| n.序言，前兆，序曲 | |
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77
lieutenants
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| n.陆军中尉( lieutenant的名词复数 )；副职官员；空军；仅低于…官阶的官员 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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regiments
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| （军队的）团( regiment的名词复数 )； 大量的人或物 | |
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circuitous
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| adj.迂回的路的，迂曲的，绕行的 | |
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81
shrouded
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| v.隐瞒( shroud的过去式和过去分词 )；保密 | |
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82
maze
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| n.迷宫，八阵图，混乱，迷惑 | |
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83
parlance
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| n.说法；语调 | |
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84
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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85
stolid
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| adj.无动于衷的，感情麻木的 | |
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86
stagnant
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| adj.不流动的，停滞的，不景气的 | |
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87
noisome
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| adj.有害的，可厌的 | |
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88
battalions
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| n.（陆军的）一营（大约有一千兵士）( battalion的名词复数 )；协同作战的部队；军队；（组织在一起工作的）队伍 | |
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89
followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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meted
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| v.（对某人）施以，给予（处罚等）( mete的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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judicial
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| adj.司法的，法庭的，审判的，明断的，公正的 | |
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95
infamous
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| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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96
commemorated
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| v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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abject
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| adj.极可怜的，卑屈的 | |
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eloquently
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| adv. 雄辩地(有口才地, 富于表情地) | |
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eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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100
gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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101
tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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102
alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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103
dykes
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| abbr.diagonal wire cutters 斜线切割机n.堤( dyke的名词复数 )；坝；堰；沟 | |
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104
imprisoned
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| 下狱，监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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105
enquiring
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| a.爱打听的，显得好奇的 | |
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106
rusty
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| adj.生锈的；锈色的；荒废了的 | |
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