THERE was a steamer in Apia harbour and I was lucky enough to get a berth1 aboard her. I think I had only been in Apia two days when she got steam up to leave for Fiji and New South Wales. I berthed2 forward in the forecastle. She was a tramp steamer and carried sail to help the decrepit3 engines and take the vessel4 to port when they broke down. Just before we left we took on a cargo5 of natives bound for somewhere! They were a mixed lot, most of them Samoans or Malay-Polynesians, and among them some Solomon Islanders who had arrived in Apia a week before, waiting to be transhipped. They were berthed forward between decks. Most of them were dressed in dead men’s clothes, collected in the South Sea Island morgues, after the first occupants had no further use for them: dead sailors, beachcombers, coolies, suicides; indeed all the derelict corpses6 of life’s drama who lay in their final resting-place in the unvisited cemeteries7 of the Pacific Islands.
These natives were a cheerful, indifferent lot of people—at least when they got over the first pang8 of parting from their relatives. But that grief was soon over, for they each believed that they were leaving their native isle9 to return some day with fortunes from the promised El Dorado: hope is as intense in natives of the South Seas as it is in white people. Next day they started to sing cheerfully, and came up on deck in shoals to cadge10 from the galley11, and get the cook to bake their bread-fruit[11] and yams. Some had their wives with them, big fat women with glittering eyes. They were supposed to keep down below after dark, but they came up on deck and went pattering by us as we stood by the fore-peak hatchway smoking with the sailors. About three days after we left Apia, bound for Suva (Fiji), a hurricane came on, and the boat rolled and pitched till we thought she would turn a somersault, or turn turtle. The natives between decks were shut down; we heard their yells as the mass of clinging arms and bodies were hurled12 about as the boat rolled and shipped seas over the bows.
11. The name bread-fruit is more poetical13 than the flavour of the fruit, which tasted to the writer like sweet turnips14.
At midday next morning the wind suddenly ceased and the sun burst out. Only those who had experienced the howling chaos15 of mountainous seas, blackness and wind would have believed what the weather had really been a few hours before.
The boatswain and the carpenter were interesting characters, both typical shellbacks of the island trading type. The boatswain looked like a priest: his face was weather-beaten and his nose twisted; he had no hair on his face, head or neck, and wore a cap to hide his polished skull16. His chum the carpenter fairly wallowed in hair, had bristly eyebrows17, a bristly beard, head and neck, and a vast moustache; you could only see his fierce, twinkling eyes as he sat arguing in the forecastle with the boatswain. Those two never agreed on any subject, but were inseparable companions. The boatswain, I believe, loved to be contradicted by his shipmate, and if no sudden response was made to any assertion he might make, he at once looked round fiercely and said that silence was equivalent to disbelief, and they might as well call him a liar18 and be done with it.
I recall how he sat by his bunk19 on his sea-chest and said: “Remember ’im? I should think I does. Very old man. He had been a skipper on the trader between the Samoan and Marquesas Group; a nice old fellow; he was blind, quite blind in both eyes.” At this the argument commenced immediately, as the carpenter looked up and said: “Of course he was blind in both eyes; he wouldn’t be blind if he could still see with one eye, would he?” Then, as he hammered at the hinge of the sea-chest he was mending, the boatswain shouted: “Stow yer gab20, yer clever son of a nigger, d—n yer. Isn’t a man blind if he’s blind in his eye?”
“Course ’e ain’t, he’s only lost one hye!”
“Yer d——d swab! To h—— with yer! If ’e’s lost his eye, ain’t ’e blind in it?”
At this the carpenter’s unshaved face fairly steamed with heat as he appealed to the sailor standing21 by: “A man ain’t blind if he’s lost ’is one eye, is ’e?”
“Well,” slowly answered the sailor solemnly, “if he couldn’t see out of the eye that was blind, I should say that he was blind in it.”
At this the boatswain spat22 on the deck, the carpenter thrust his bearded chin forward, and they started to bet heavily on the matter; and the Norwegian cook, who had come in to see what the shouting was about, wiped his mouth with his dirty sack apron23 and said:
“Mein tear frients, vich eye was the mans vlind in?”
“Yer son of a German sea-cook, I said the man was stone blind in both eyes, so, d—n yer, he hadn’t any eyes at all!” roared the infuriated boatswain.
“Vell, now,” said the sea-cook, as he stroked his short Vandyke beard and looked astonished, “he vash not vlind then; he haf no eyes to be vlind in at all; for how cans a man be vlind in zee eyes if he haf no eyes?”
The boatswain turned purple, spluttered out “Yer God-d——d cheeky,” then suddenly lost his temper, made a run and pushed the cook, who nearly fell to the deck.
“Bear witness,” shouted the boatswain, looking at the sailors and members of the black squad26, who were all standing around to see fair play. “The cook has insulted me by saying that a blind man has no eyes.” Then the Norwegian made a rush at the old boatswain. It gave the whole crew a lot of trouble to separate them. Then the boatswain cooled down and said it was his own fault for not simply saying the man was blind, and saying nothing whatever about his eyes if he hadn’t got any. Then they all had a drop of rum together, and were good friends till the next argument cropped up and they took sides once more.
At other times they would sit yarning28, and as I listened, sitting on my sea-chest, I heard many terrible and indescribable things: true enough too, I have not the slightest doubt, but only fit to be told here after considerable prunings from the facts. There was an old Solomon Island native just by us, down in the fore-peak. He was a kind of overseer, and had to look after the natives in the hold, and separate the various tribal29 characters if they fought, which they often did. Now this overseer was a garrulous30 chap, and though he was hideous31 enough it was interesting to hear what he said. He was over fifty years of age, and we gathered from what he let out that he had eaten “long pig” in his youth. One calm, hot night, when the engines were clanking steadily32 away, while the skipper walked the poop and the steward33 slept, we were all sitting in the forecastle; some of the sailors were in their bunks34, and a few others smoking and playing cards beneath the dim oil lamp. The garrulous native overseer was talking away for all he was worth, when suddenly the boatswain leaned over his bunk and said: “Shut up, yer son of a cannibal.”
“Me no heathen, I good Christian35 man. Once long ago I eat ‘long pig’; but since then I have saved white sailor from being eaten, and been friend to white girl.”
“Eh?” said the boatswain, as he pricked36 his ears up; the carpenter said, “Gor blimey, you’ve eaten——”; quickly a sailor nudged him, so that we might hear all about it, and one of the crew who had been playing cards shuffled37 the pack and said quietly: “Tell us all about it.” The grim-looking, half-naked savage38 nodded his head and started off.
“Many years ago now a terrible hurricane was blowing off the Solomon Isle of Bourka, when the islanders suddenly sighted a full-rigged sailing ship in distress39. Sunset blazed behind her, and they could see the torn sails and the decks taking the seas over, as she helplessly drifted before the gale40 that was bringing her shoreward. That night, when the stars were flashing through rifts41 in the clouds, which had broken up and left pools of blue in the sky, they saw the great ship within a mile of the shore, with walls of living waters breaking over her. One or two sailors were just discernible, clinging to the spars aloft; and then suddenly a mountain of water rose and the masts disappeared.
“In the early morning the natives gathered the bodies of the dead sailors together, put them in old salt-beef ship’s barrels and hid them on the sands just under the water near the shore. For the bloodthirsty tribe who found them were cannibals. Four of the crew were still alive—the boatswain, the chief mate, the cook and the ship’s doctor; and a girl, who was the skipper’s daughter.” The boatswain dropped his pipe on the floor, the sailors all looked round and left their cards, and one or two went phew! then listened, and the half-savage native continued to this effect:
“They took the four living men up the shore and put them in a cave, and hid them so that a rival tribe they had lately been fighting with should not get hold of them before they could eat them. The chief of the tribe claimed the pretty white girl; she was not more than seventeen years old. They took her up to the stronghold, made a big festival fire and had a feast from one of the dead sailors who had been washed ashore42.
“While the whole tribe sat squatting43 in a circle, watching and waiting while the flames of the fire flickered44 and hissed45, the white girl, tied to a coco-palm by the hands, looked round at them all with staring, frightened eyes. Then the hideous cannibal chief caught hold of her and told her that if she would be his wife he would save the four white men who were alive in the cave. For a while they could not stop her screaming, and then she looked up at the chief and said: ‘Bring me the white men first’; and he shook his head and said, ‘No.’ Later, when they were eating, and dancing wildly round the terrible fire, another chief, of a tribe inland, came suddenly out of the forest close by and joined in the feast. When he saw the white girl staring, tied to a palm just behind them, he looked at her longingly46, and offered to buy her from the first chief.
“I was a young man then, about twenty years old, and I had been a servant off and on to the white missionaries47 who lived twenty miles away round the coast. I made up my mind to steal away at daybreak and tell them about the white girl and the four sailors in the cave. For that old chief who had come and tried to buy the white girl was a bloodthirsty cannibal, and he only wanted to buy the girl so that he could eat her. It was well known by all the tribe that he loved the flesh of women, and would risk his life to eat a white girl’s breasts.
“In the shadows by the trees she still sat, with her wildly staring eyes, appealing to the glittering eyes of the chief and to dumb heaven. Most of the tribe squatted48 or lay at full length round the dying fire, their hideous appetites satisfied and their bellies49 distended50. I saw the two powerful chiefs stand arguing; and then the chief who longed for the white girl turned away from the other and looked with fierce, hungry eyes at the shivering girl a moment, ere his dark, naked limbs strode away into the forest. My heart leapt with joy as I saw his big form go. I felt that I could now easily save the white girl; for I knew that white men were brave and would come directly I arrived before them and told them all that had happened. Walking as near as I dared to the white girl, I spoke51 to her in English. I said four words only: ‘I see white men.’ I could not see her glance, as I dared not look her way; for the chief sat close by, rubbing his chin and grunting52 sleepily. I sat myself down by a tree and slept, thinking to go off and get help before the day broke. Suddenly I was awakened53 by a great noise of shouting and running. I jumped to my feet. The tribal chief was lifting his war-club and dashing it to the ground to ease his terrible rage; and then crash! he smashed the sentinel’s skull; it cracked like an egg-shell. The man had slept instead of watching; the white girl had gone! At first I was delighted, for I thought she had escaped; but instead of that she had been carried off by the great girl-eating chief!”
Directly he said that all the forecastle swallowed their tobacco smoke and said, “Well, I’m——”; the boatswain muttered, “Holy heaven!”; and then one of the sailors said, “How did you know the stinking54 swine of a chief had her?”
We all somehow listened hopefully; for the overseer looked so earnest, and we did not want to think we were hearing the truth. A yarn27 was all right, but this made the hands restive55 and the eyes blaze. However, he continued:
“Some of the tribe, who were camping by a lagoon56 not far inland, were suddenly awakened by an agonised scream. Looking through the jungle, they saw several canoes being rapidly paddled across the moonlit waters, and in the foremost canoe they recognised the feared, bloodthirsty cannibal chief, Torao. He was a giant of a fellow, nearly seven feet in height and of tremendous girth, and so there was no mistaking him. He was paddling with one arm, and held the white girl under the other as you would hold a strangled rabbit.”
“Lummy!” said one sailor; as one or two others wiped their perspiring57 faces with their red handkerchiefs, listening as they held on to the stanchion in the middle of the forecastle, while the tramp steamer rolled and pitched along across the Pacific, heaving at intervals58 to the heavy cross-swell.
“Vell, vell now,” muttered the Norwegian cook, as he sat on the side of his bunk taking his trousers off. The Solomon Islander continued:
“I was young then and could run with the swiftness of a horse, and, knowing that there was no time to lose, I never stopped once as I ran across country and round the coast for miles. At length, about midday, I arrived at Tooka village, which is on the coast, rushed up the shore and thumped59 at the door of the first white man’s bungalow61 that I saw. They all came rushing from their houses when they heard what I had to say. Directly they heard all they rushed back to their homes and got their guns and revolvers, and in no time were all astride on horseback galloping62 across the country.
“At sunset we arrived at the village where the caves were. I was brave, for I knew the white men would protect me, so I led the way at once to the caves; but we were too late; they were deserted63; the sailors had been taken away. At once the leader of the white men, who was a big man with a heavy grey moustache, shouted to me that I should take them to the spot where they had eaten the sailor. Quickly I ran on in front, and they all came behind, their faces stern and white-looking. When we reached the place they said nothing, but all quietly tightened64 the reins65 of the horses and then, dismounting, crept together to the edge of the forest. The white man who led them made a terrible oath when they all peeped through the bamboos; for the savages66 had just clubbed two of the sailors and a great fire was blazing in the middle of the cleared patch by the huts; and not far off from the dead bodies stood the chief mate, bound hand and foot, waiting to be clubbed too. The white men hesitated one moment, then rushed across the cleared patch, firing their revolvers. Several of the natives fell dead as the tribe scampered67 off into the forest. They only saved the chief mate out of the four men who had survived that shipwreck68. They burnt the village to the ground and buried the bodies of the boatswain and the cook. Not far from where the fire had been they found some shrivelled clothes and a small peaked cap; in the pockets were some little medicine phials, and, close by, the ship’s doctor’s feet—still in his boots! I told them about the ship’s salt-beef barrels hidden under the shore sand. They dug them all up and took the bodies miles away and buried them. The skipper’s daughter was never heard of any more. About two years after that high chief Torao, who stole the white girl, became a Christian, and taught the native children lotu songs in the mission rooms. I went and lived with the white men at Tooka; they gave me good clothes, and I was their servant, and found them good and kind masters.”
“Clear out of this fo’c’sle, yer God-d——d son of a cannibal!” shouted the boatswain directly the overseer had finished; and though he had befriended our countrymen we too felt a bit disgusted, and knew how the boatswain felt as we looked up at the thick-lipped Solomon Islander’s face.
The foregoing is as much as I can tell you of the main facts of the native’s story. I have left out all the gruesome embellishments and the heart-rending cruelty of the native’s description of the white girl’s grief in the hands of the cannibal monsters. Let us hope it was not true; but I must admit many things made my heart thump60 as I listened to all that seemed too true. The boatswain and his shipmate never argued over that tale. The Norwegian cook at last pulled his trousers right off and said, “Vell now, it’s too terrible to tink of,” and swung his legs round into his bunk. I turned in also, just opposite him, and said: “Let’s keep the lamp on; I don’t feel sleepy to-night.”
Next day we dropped anchor in Suva harbour and stayed there two days. I had previously69 been to the Fiji Group and stayed there for a considerable time, having various experiences with the natives and traders, experiences which will appear in the second half of these reminiscences.
The crew went ashore and had a fly round, walked the parade and visited all the drinking establishments. The boatswain and his mate came back arm in arm, arguing at the top of their voices; they had been drinking rather heavily. When they got on board the boatswain sighted the natives poking70 their heads out of the fore-peak hatchway, and, thinking of the tale the overseer had told us, he shouted at them, “Get down below, yer d——d cannibals,” and then made a rush for them. We were obliged to hold on to him to keep him from going down between decks. At last we got him into his bunk; but none of us had any sleep, for he shouted about cannibals all night and swore that we had got thousands of them on board.
Next day, just before we left Suva, a passenger came on board. He was an old gentleman with bristly eyebrows, who wore a monocle. He carried two large portmanteaux and came puffing71 up the gangway, and directly he got on deck he started shouting: “Stew-ard! Stew-ard!” Spying the boatswain by the main hatch, he mistook him for the steward, and, looking through his eyeglass, said: “Where’s the saloon?” At the same time he handed him the largest of the portmanteaux. With disgust wrinkling his florid nut-cracker face, the boatswain pointed72 forward. Off went the old man, muttering something under his breath about the discourteous73 behaviour of sailors. “Down there,” shouted the boatswain, as the passenger got up against the fore-peak and called once more: “Steward!” Then down the fore-peak he went. In a few seconds we heard a wild yell, and up came the old fellow, hatless, with his face pallid74 with fright. He had landed in the middle of the huddled75 natives below.
“Help, help!” he shouted. I told him it was all right, put his hat on for him and went down quickly and fetched up his portmanteau, which he had dropped in his fright. He was “all of a-tremble”; his hand shook visibly as he clutched his property. The German steward came hurrying forward and, when he sighted the old gentleman’s massive gold chain and jewelled fingers, almost fell forward on his face, bowing and scraping in his apologies.
When the old fellow recovered he swore he’d sue the boatswain, in Sydney, for damages.
We had a fairly fine passage across to New South Wales and in a week sighted Sydney Heads.
We dropped anchor out in the stream, and the old passenger went off in a tender. He had got over his adventure, and shook his umbrella good-naturedly at the boatswain, who grinned at him over the fo’c’sle head.
I was pleased to see the lovely shores of Sydney harbour again. That same night I stood on deck and saw the beautiful sea-board city rising grandly, with her spires76 and walls, as moonlight crept over the horizon.
Sydney by night is a sight that makes you easily understand the Cornstalks’ pride in their beloved city. Next day we berthed by Circular Quay77. It was fearfully hot, real dog-day weather. Hospitality abounds78 in Sydney, and one never need feel lonely, for on stepping on to the wharf79 I was once more enthusiastically welcomed by an immense crowd of mosquitoes! We can joke after, but I did not see life then as I do now.
How I recall it all, my beautiful youth—aye, as a woman’s heart secretly remembers her first love, and gazing back feels the old passion, sees the rosy80 horizon of dreams, the absolute certitude of old vows81, spoken by that voice that expressed all the happy Universe! Yes, so do I remember the sleepless82, hungry nights under the stars that shone over the trees, nights radiant with dreams!
点击收听单词发音
1 berth | |
n.卧铺,停泊地,锚位;v.使停泊 | |
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2 berthed | |
v.停泊( berth的过去式和过去分词 );占铺位 | |
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3 decrepit | |
adj.衰老的,破旧的 | |
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4 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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5 cargo | |
n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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6 corpses | |
n.死尸,尸体( corpse的名词复数 ) | |
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7 cemeteries | |
n.(非教堂的)墓地,公墓( cemetery的名词复数 ) | |
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8 pang | |
n.剧痛,悲痛,苦闷 | |
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9 isle | |
n.小岛,岛 | |
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10 cadge | |
v.乞讨 | |
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11 galley | |
n.(飞机或船上的)厨房单层甲板大帆船;军舰舰长用的大划艇; | |
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12 hurled | |
v.猛投,用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 );大声叫骂 | |
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13 poetical | |
adj.似诗人的;诗一般的;韵文的;富有诗意的 | |
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14 turnips | |
芜青( turnip的名词复数 ); 芜菁块根; 芜菁甘蓝块根; 怀表 | |
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15 chaos | |
n.混乱,无秩序 | |
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16 skull | |
n.头骨;颅骨 | |
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17 eyebrows | |
眉毛( eyebrow的名词复数 ) | |
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18 liar | |
n.说谎的人 | |
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19 bunk | |
n.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位;废话 | |
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20 gab | |
v.空谈,唠叨,瞎扯;n.饶舌,多嘴,爱说话 | |
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21 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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22 spat | |
n.口角,掌击;v.发出呼噜呼噜声 | |
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23 apron | |
n.围裙;工作裙 | |
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24 vat | |
n.(=value added tax)增值税,大桶 | |
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25 enraged | |
使暴怒( enrage的过去式和过去分词 ); 歜; 激愤 | |
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26 squad | |
n.班,小队,小团体;vt.把…编成班或小组 | |
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27 yarn | |
n.纱,纱线,纺线;奇闻漫谈,旅行轶事 | |
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28 yarning | |
vi.讲故事(yarn的现在分词形式) | |
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29 tribal | |
adj.部族的,种族的 | |
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30 garrulous | |
adj.唠叨的,多话的 | |
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31 hideous | |
adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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32 steadily | |
adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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33 steward | |
n.乘务员,服务员;看管人;膳食管理员 | |
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34 bunks | |
n.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位( bunk的名词复数 );空话,废话v.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位( bunk的第三人称单数 );空话,废话 | |
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35 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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36 pricked | |
刺,扎,戳( prick的过去式和过去分词 ); 刺伤; 刺痛; 使剧痛 | |
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37 shuffled | |
v.洗(纸牌)( shuffle的过去式和过去分词 );拖着脚步走;粗心地做;摆脱尘世的烦恼 | |
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38 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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39 distress | |
n.苦恼,痛苦,不舒适;不幸;vt.使悲痛 | |
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40 gale | |
n.大风,强风,一阵闹声(尤指笑声等) | |
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41 rifts | |
n.裂缝( rift的名词复数 );裂隙;分裂;不和 | |
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42 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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43 squatting | |
v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 );非法擅自占用(土地或房屋);为获得其所有权;而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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44 flickered | |
(通常指灯光)闪烁,摇曳( flicker的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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45 hissed | |
发嘶嘶声( hiss的过去式和过去分词 ); 发嘘声表示反对 | |
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46 longingly | |
adv. 渴望地 热望地 | |
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47 missionaries | |
n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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48 squatted | |
v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 );非法擅自占用(土地或房屋);为获得其所有权;而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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49 bellies | |
n.肚子( belly的名词复数 );腹部;(物体的)圆形或凸起部份;腹部…形的 | |
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50 distended | |
v.(使)膨胀,肿胀( distend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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51 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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52 grunting | |
咕哝的,呼噜的 | |
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53 awakened | |
v.(使)醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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54 stinking | |
adj.臭的,烂醉的,讨厌的v.散发出恶臭( stink的现在分词 );发臭味;名声臭;糟透 | |
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55 restive | |
adj.不安宁的,不安静的 | |
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56 lagoon | |
n.泻湖,咸水湖 | |
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57 perspiring | |
v.出汗,流汗( perspire的现在分词 ) | |
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58 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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59 thumped | |
v.重击, (指心脏)急速跳动( thump的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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60 thump | |
v.重击,砰然地响;n.重击,重击声 | |
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61 bungalow | |
n.平房,周围有阳台的木造小平房 | |
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62 galloping | |
adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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63 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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64 tightened | |
收紧( tighten的过去式和过去分词 ); (使)变紧; (使)绷紧; 加紧 | |
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65 reins | |
感情,激情; 缰( rein的名词复数 ); 控制手段; 掌管; (成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的)保护带 | |
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66 savages | |
未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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67 scampered | |
v.蹦蹦跳跳地跑,惊惶奔跑( scamper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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68 shipwreck | |
n.船舶失事,海难 | |
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69 previously | |
adv.以前,先前(地) | |
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70 poking | |
n. 刺,戳,袋 vt. 拨开,刺,戳 vi. 戳,刺,捅,搜索,伸出,行动散慢 | |
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71 puffing | |
v.使喷出( puff的现在分词 );喷着汽(或烟)移动;吹嘘;吹捧 | |
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72 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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73 discourteous | |
adj.不恭的,不敬的 | |
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74 pallid | |
adj.苍白的,呆板的 | |
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75 huddled | |
挤在一起(huddle的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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76 spires | |
n.(教堂的) 塔尖,尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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77 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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78 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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79 wharf | |
n.码头,停泊处 | |
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80 rosy | |
adj.美好的,乐观的,玫瑰色的 | |
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81 vows | |
誓言( vow的名词复数 ); 郑重宣布,许愿 | |
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82 sleepless | |
adj.不睡眠的,睡不著的,不休息的 | |
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