The pleasantest incident of the morning is when Mr. Pearce (the Vice-Consul) makes his appearance with the account-books, containing the receipts and expenditures3 of the preceding day, and deposits on my desk a little rouleau of the Queen's coin, wrapped up in a piece of paper. This morning there were eight sovereigns, four half-crowns, and a shilling,—a pretty fair day's work, though not more than the average ought to be. This forenoon, thus far, I have had two calls, not of business,—one from an American captain and his son, another from Mr. H—— B——, whom I met in America, and who has showed us great attention here. He has arranged for us to go to the theatre with some of his family this evening.
Since I have been in Liverpool we have hardly had a day, until yesterday, without more or less of rain, and so cold and shivery that life was miserable4. I am not warm enough even now, but am gradually getting acclimated5 in that respect.
Just now I have been fooled out of half a crown by a young woman, who represents herself as an American and destitute6, having come over to see an uncle whom she found dead, and she has no means of getting back again. Her accent is not that of an American, and her appearance is not particularly prepossessing, though not decidedly otherwise. She is decently dressed and modest in deportment, but I do not quite trust her face. She has been separated from her husband, as I understand her, by course of law, has had two children, both now dead. What she wants is to get back to America, and perhaps arrangements may be made with some shipmaster to take her as stewardess8 or in some subordinate capacity. My judgment9, on the whole, is that she is an English woman, married to and separated from an American husband,—of no very decided7 virtue10. I might as well have kept my half-crown, and yet I might have bestowed11 it worse. She is very decent in manner, cheerful, at least not despondent12.
At two o'clock I went over to the Royal Rock Hotel, about fifteen or twenty minutes' steaming from this side of the river. We are going there on Saturday to reside for a while. Returning, I found that, Mr. B., from the American Chamber13 of Commerce, had called to arrange the time and place of a visit to the Consul from a delegation14 of that body. Settled for to-morrow at quarter past one at Mr. Blodgett's.
August 5th.—An invitation this morning from the Mayor to dine at the Town Hall on Friday next. Heaven knows I had rather dine at the humblest inn in the city, inasmuch as a speech will doubtless be expected from me. However, things must be as they may.
At a quarter past one I was duly on hand at Mr. Blodgett's to receive the deputation from the Chamber of Commerce. They arrived pretty seasonably, in two or three carriages, and were ushered15 into the drawing-room,—seven or eight gentlemen, some of whom I had met before. Hereupon ensued a speech from Mr. B., the Chairman of the delegation, short and sweet, alluding16 to my literary reputation and other laudatory17 matters, and occupying only a minute or two. The speaker was rather embarrassed, which encouraged me a little, and yet I felt more diffidence on this occasion than in my effort at Mr. Crittenden's lunch, where, indeed, I was perfectly18 self-possessed. But here, there being less formality, and more of a conversational19 character in what was said, my usual diffidence could not so well be kept in abeyance20. However, I did not break down to an intolerable extent, and, winding21 up my eloquence22 as briefly23 as possible, we had a social talk. Their whole stay could not have been much more than a quarter of an hour.
A call, this morning, at the Consulate, from Dr. Bowrug, who is British minister, or something of the kind, in China, and now absent on a twelvemonth's leave. The Doctor is a brisk person, with the address of a man of the world,—free, quick to smile, and of agreeable manners. He has a good face, rather American than English in aspect, and does not look much above fifty, though he says he is between sixty and seventy. I should take him rather for an active lawyer or a man of business than for a scholar and a literary man. He talked in a lively way for ten or fifteen minutes, and then took his leave, offering me any service in his power in London,—as, for instance, to introduce me to the Athenaeum Club.
August 8th.—Day before yesterday I escorted my family to Rock Ferry, two miles either up or down the Mersey (and I really don't know which) by steamer, which runs every half-hour. There are steamers going continually to Birkenhead and other landings, and almost always a great many passengers on the transit24. At this time the boat was crowded so as to afford scanty25 standing26-room; it being Saturday, and therefore a kind of gala-day. I think I have never seen a populace before coming to England; but this crowd afforded a specimen27 of one, both male and female. The women were the most remarkable28; though they seemed not disreputable, there was in them a coarseness, a freedom, an—I don't know what, that was purely29 English. In fact, men and women here do things that would at least make them ridiculous in America. They are not afraid to enjoy themselves in their own way, and have no pseudo-gentility to support. Some girls danced upon the crowded deck, to the miserable music of a little fragment of a band which goes up and down the river on each trip of the boat. Just before the termination of the voyage a man goes round with a bugle30 turned upwards31 to receive the eleemosynary pence and half-pence of the passengers. I gave one of them, the other day, a silver fourpence, which fell into the vitals of the instrument, and compelled the man to take it to pieces.
At Rock Ferry there was a great throng32, forming a scene not unlike one of our muster-days or a Fourth of July, and there were bands of music and banners, and small processions after them, and a school of charity children, I believe, enjoying a festival. And there was a club of respectable persons, playing at bowls on the bowling-green of the hotel, and there were children, infants, riding on donkeys at a penny a ride, while their mothers walked alongside to prevent a fall. Yesterday, while we were at dinner, Mr. B. came in his carriage to take us to his residence, Poulton Hall. He had invited us to dine; but I misunderstood him, and thought he only intended to give us a drive. Poulton Hall is about three miles from Rock Ferry, the road passing through some pleasant rural scenery, and one or two villages, with houses standing close together, and old stone or brick cottages, with thatched roofs, and now and then a better mansion33, apart among trees. We passed an old church, with a tower and spire34, and, half-way up, a patch of ivy35, dark green, and some yellow wall-flowers, in full bloom, growing out of the crevices36 of the stone. Mr. B. told us that the tower was formerly37 quite clothed with ivy from bottom to top, but that it had fallen away for lack of the nourishment38 that it used to find in the lime between the stones. This old church answered to my Transatlantic fancies of England better than anything I have yet seen. Not far from it was the Rectory, behind a deep grove39 of ancient trees; and there lives the Rector, enjoying a thousand pounds a year and his nothing-to-do, while a curate performs the real duty on a stipend40 of eighty pounds.
We passed through a considerable extent of private road, and finally drove over a lawn, studded with trees and closely shaven, till we reached the door of Poulton Hall. Part of the mansion is three or four hundred years old; another portion is about a hundred and fifty, and still another has been built during the present generation. The house is two stories high, with a sort of beetle-browed roof in front. It is not very striking, and does not look older than many wooden houses which I have seen in America. There is a curious stately staircase, with a twisted balustrade much like that of the old Province House in Boston. The drawing-room is a handsome modern apartment, being beautifully painted and gilded41 and paper-hung, with a white marble fireplace and rich furniture, so that the impression is that of newness, not of age. It is the same with the dining-room, and all the rest of the interior so far as I saw it.
Mr. B. did not inherit this old hall, nor, indeed, is he the owner, but only the tenant42 of it. He is a merchant of Liverpool, a bachelor, with two sisters residing with him. In the entrance-hall, there was a stuffed fox with glass eyes, which I never should have doubted to be an actual live fox except for his keeping so quiet; also some grouse43 and other game. Mr. B. seems to be a sportsman, and is setting out this week on an excursion to Scotland, moor-fowl shooting.
While the family and two or three guests went to dinner, we walked out to see the place. The gardener, an Irishman, showed us through the garden, which is large and well cared for. They certainly get everything from Nature which she can possibly be persuaded to give them, here in England. There were peaches and pears growing against the high brick southern walls,—the trunk and branches of the trees being spread out perfectly flat against the wall, very much like the skin of a dead animal nailed up to dry, and not a single branch protruding44. Figs45 were growing in the same way. The brick wall, very probably, was heated within, by means of pipes, in order to re-enforce the insufficient46 heat of the sun. It seems as if there must be something unreal and unsatisfactory in fruit that owes its existence to such artificial methods. Squashes were growing under glass, poor things! There were immensely large gooseberries in the garden; and in this particular berry, the English, I believe, have decidedly the advantage over ourselves. The raspberries, too, were large and good. I espied47 one gigantic hog-weed in the garden; and, really, my heart warmed to it, being strongly reminded of the principal product of my own garden at Concord48. After viewing the garden sufficiently49, the gardener led us to other parts of the estate, and we had glimpses of a delightful50 valley, its sides shady with beautiful trees, and a rich, grassy51 meadow at the bottom. By means of a steam-engine and subterranean52 pipes and hydrants, the liquid manure53 from the barn-yard is distributed wherever it is wanted over the estate, being spouted54 in rich showers from the hydrants. Under this influence, the meadow at the bottom of the valley had already been made to produce three crops of grass during the present season, and would produce another.
The lawn around Poulton Hall, like thousands of other lawns in England, is very beautiful, but requires great care to keep it so, being shorn every three or four days. No other country will ever have this charm, nor the charm of lovely verdure, which almost makes up for the absence of sunshine. Without the constant rain and shadow which strikes us as so dismal55, these lawns would be as brown as an autumn leaf. I have not, thus far, found any such magnificent trees as I expected. Mr. B. told me that three oaks, standing in a row on his lawn, were the largest in the county. They were very good trees, to be sure, and perhaps four feet in diameter near the ground, but with no very noble spread of foliage56. In Concord there are, if not oaks, yet certainly elms, a great deal more stately and beautiful. But, on the whole, this lawn, and the old Hall in the midst of it, went a good way towards realizing some of my fancies of English life.
By and by a footman, looking very quaint57 and queer in his livery coat, drab breeches, and white stockings, came to invite me to the table, where I found Mr. B. and his sisters and guests sitting at the fruit and wine. There were port, sherry, madeira, and one bottle of claret, all very good; but they take here much heavier wines than we drink now in America. After a tolerably long session we went to the tea-room, where I drank some coffee, and at about the edge of dusk the carriage drew up to the door to take us home. Mr. B. and his sisters have shown us genuine kindness, and they gave us a hearty58 invitation to come and ramble59 over the house whenever we pleased, during their absence in Scotland. They say that there are many legends and ghost-stories connected with the house; and there is an attic60 chamber, with a skylight, which is called the Martyr's chamber, from the fact of its having, in old times, been tenanted by a lady, who was imprisoned61 there, and persecuted62 to death for her religion. There is an old black-letter library, but the room containing it is shut, barred, and padlocked,—the owner of the house refusing to let it be opened, lest some of the books should be stolen. Meanwhile the rats are devouring63 them, and the damps destroying them.
August 9th.—A pretty comfortable day, as to warmth, and I believe there is sunshine overhead; but a sea-cloud, composed of fog and coal-smoke, envelops64 Liverpool. At Rock Ferry, when I left it at half past nine, there was promise of a cheerful day. A good many gentlemen (or, rather, respectable business people) came in the boat, and it is not unpleasant, on these fine mornings, to take the breezy atmosphere of the river. The huge steamer Great Britain, bound for Australia, lies right off the Rock Ferry landing; and at a little distance are two old hulks of ships of war, dismantled65, roofed over, and anchored in the river, formerly for quarantine purposes, but now used chiefly or solely66 as homes for old seamen67, whose light labor68 it is to take care of these condemned69 ships. There are a great many steamers plying70 up and down the river to various landings in the vicinity; and a good many steam-tugs; also, many boats, most of which have dark-red or tan-colored sails, being oiled to resist the wet; also, here and there, a yacht or pleasure-boat, and a few ships riding stately at their anchors, probably on the point of sailing. The river, however, is by no means crowded; because the immense multitude of ships are ensconced in the docks, where their masts make an intricate forest for miles up and down the Liverpool shore. The small black steamers, whizzing industriously71 along, many of them crowded with passengers, snake up the chief life of the scene. The Mersey has the color of a mud-puddle, and no atmospheric72 effect, as far as I have seen, ever gives it a more agreeable tinge73.
Visitors to-day, thus far, have been H. A. B., with whom I have arranged to dine with us at Rock Ferry, and then he is to take us on board the Great Britain, of which his father is owner (in great part). Secondly74, Monsieur H., the French Consul, who can speak hardly any English, and who was more powerfully scented75 with cigar-smoke than any man I ever encountered; a polite, gray-haired, red-nosed gentleman, very courteous77 and formal. Heaven keep him from me! At one o'clock, or thereabouts, I walked into the city, down through Lord Street, Church Street, and back to the Consulate through various untraceable crookednesses. Coming to Chapel78 Street, I crossed the graveyard79 of the old Church of St. Nicholas. This is, I suppose, the oldest sacred site in Liverpool, a church having stood here ever since the Conquest, though, probably, there is little or nothing of the old edifice80 in the present one, either the whole of the edifice or else the steeple, being thereto shaken by a chime of bells,— perhaps both, at different times,—has tumbled down; but the present church is what we Americans should call venerable. When the first church was built, and long afterwards, it must have stood on the grassy verge81 of the Mersey; but now there are pavements and warehouses82, and the thronged83 Prince's and George's Docks, between it and the river; and all around it is the very busiest bustle84 of commerce, rumbling85 wheels, hurrying men, porter-shops, everything that pertains86 to the grossest and most practical life. And, notwithstanding, there is the broad churchyard extending on three sides of it, just as it used to be a thousand years ago. It is absolutely paved from border to border with flat tombstones, on a level with the soil and with each other, so that it is one floor of stone over the whole space, with grass here and there sprouting87 between the crevices. All these stones, no doubt, formerly had inscriptions88; but as many people continually pass, in various directions, across the churchyard, and as the tombstones are not of a very hard material, the records on many of them are effaced90. I saw none very old. A quarter of a century is sufficient to obliterate91 the letters, and make all smooth, where the direct pathway from gate to gate lies over the stones. The climate and casual footsteps rub out any inscription89 in less than a hundred years. Some of the monuments are cracked. On many is merely cut "The burial place of" so and so; on others there is a long list of half-readable names; on some few a laudatory epitaph, out of which, however, it were far too tedious to pick the meaning. But it really is interesting and suggestive to think of this old church, first built when Liverpool was a small village, and remaining, with its successive dead of ten centuries around it, now that the greatest commercial city in the world has its busiest centre there. I suppose people still continue to be buried in the cemetery92. The greatest upholders of burials in cities are those whose progenitors93 have been deposited around or within the city churches. If this spacious94 churchyard stood in a similar position in one of our American cities, I rather suspect that long ere now it would have run the risk of being laid out in building-lots, and covered with warehouses; even if the church itself escaped,—but it would not escape longer than till its disrepair afforded excuse for tearing it down. And why should it, when its purposes might be better served in another spot?
We went on board the Great Britain before dinner, between five and six o'clock,—a great structure, as to convenient arrangement and adaptation, but giving me a strong impression of the tedium95 and misery96 of the long voyage to Australia. By way of amusement, she takes over fifty pounds' worth of playing-cards, at two shillings per pack, for the use of passengers; also, a small, well-selected library. After a considerable time spent on board, we returned to the hotel and dined, and Mr. B. took his leave at nine o'clock.
August 10th.—I left Rock Ferry for the city at half past nine. In the boat which arrived thence, there were several men and women with baskets on their heads, for this is a favorite way of carrying burdens; and they trudge97 onward98 beneath them, without any apparent fear of an overturn, and seldom putting up a hand to steady them. One woman, this morning, had a heavy load of crockery; another, an immense basket of turnips99, freshly gathered, that seemed to me as much as a man could well carry on his back. These must be a stiff-necked people. The women step sturdily and freely, and with not ungraceful strength. The trip over to town was pleasant, it being a fair morning, only with a low-hanging fog. Had it been in America, I should have anticipated a day of burning heat.
Visitors this morning. Mr. Ogden of Chicago, or somewhere in the Western States, who arrived in England a fortnight ago, and who called on me at that time. He has since been in Scotland, and is now going to London and the Continent; secondly, the Captain of the Collins steamer Pacific, which sails to-day; thirdly, an American shipmaster, who complained that he had never, in his heretofore voyages, been able to get sight of the American Consul.
Mr. Pearce's customary matutinal visit was unusually agreeable to-day, inasmuch as he laid on my desk nineteen golden sovereigns and thirteen shillings. It being the day of the steamer's departure, an unusual number of invoice100 certificates had been required,—my signature to each of which brings me two dollars.
The autograph of a living author has seldom been so much in request at so respectable a price. Colonel Crittenden told me that he had received as much as fifty pounds on a single day. Heaven prosper101 the trade between America and Liverpool!
August 15th.—Many scenes which I should have liked to record have occurred; but the pressure of business has prevented me from recording102 them from day to day.
On Thursday I went, on invitation from Mr. B., to the prodigious103 steamer Great Britain, down the harbor, and some miles into the sea, to escort her off a little way on her voyage to Australia. There is an immense enthusiasm among the English people about this ship, on account of its being the largest in the world. The shores were lined with people to see her sail, and there were innumerable small steamers, crowded with men, all the way out into the ocean. Nothing seems to touch the English nearer than this question of nautical104 superiority; and if we wish to hit them to the quick, we must hit them there.
On Friday, at 7 P.M., I went to dine with the Mayor. It was a dinner given to the Judges and the Grand Jury. The Judges of England, during the time of holding an Assize, are the persons first in rank in the kingdom. They take precedence of everybody else,—of the highest military officers, of the Lord Lieutenants105, of the Archbishops,—of the Prince of Wales,—of all except the Sovereign, whose authority and dignity they represent. In case of a royal dinner, the Judge would lead the Queen to the table.
The dinner was at the Town Hall, and the rooms and the whole affair were all in the most splendid style. Nothing struck me more than the footmen in the city livery. They really looked more magnificent in their gold-lace and breeches and white silk stockings than any officers of state. The rooms were beautiful; gorgeously painted and gilded, gorgeously lighted, gorgeously hung with paintings,—the plate was gorgeous, and the dinner gorgeous in the English fashion.
After the removal of the cloth the Mayor gave various toasts, prefacing each with some remarks,—the first, of course, the Sovereign, after which "God save the Queen" was sung, the company standing up and joining in the chorus, their ample faces glowing with wine, enthusiasm, and loyalty106. Afterwards the Bar, and various other dignities and institutions were toasted; and by and by came the toast to the United States, and to me, as their Representative. Hereupon either "Hail Columbia," or "Yankee Doodle," or some other of our national tunes107 (but Heaven knows which), was played; and at the conclusion, being at bay, and with no alternative, I got upon my legs, and made a response. They received me and listened to my nonsense with a good deal of rapping, and my speech seemed to give great satisfaction; my chief difficulty being in not knowing how to pitch my voice to the size of the room. As for the matter, it is not of the slightest consequence. Anybody may make an after-dinner speech who will be content to talk onward without saying anything. My speech was not more than two or three inches long; and, considering that I did not know a soul there, except the Mayor himself, and that I am wholly unpractised in all sorts of oratory108, and that I had nothing to say, it was quite successful. I hardly thought it was in me, but, being once started, I felt no embarrassment109, and went through it as coolly as if I were going to be hanged.
Yesterday, after dinner, I took a walk with my family. We went through by-ways and private roads, and saw more of rural England, with its hedge-rows, its grassy fields, and its whitewashed110 old stone cottages, than we have before seen since our arrival.
August 20th.—This being Saturday, there early commenced a throng of visitants to Rock Ferry. The boat in which I came over brought from the city a multitude of factory-people. They had bands of music, and banners inscribed111 with the names of the mills they belong to, and other devices: pale-looking people, but not looking exactly as if they were underfed. They are brought on reduced terms by the railways and steamers, and come from great distances in the interior. These, I believe, were from Preston. I have not yet had an opportunity of observing how they amuse themselves during these excursions.
At the dock, the other day, the steamer arrived from Rock Ferry with a countless112 multitude of little girls, in coarse blue gowns, who, as they landed, formed in procession, and walked up the dock. These girls had been taken from the workhouses and educated at a charity-school, and would by and by be apprenticed113 as servants. I should not have conceived it possible that so many children could have been collected together, without a single trace of beauty or scarcely of intelligence in so much as one individual; such mean, coarse, vulgar features and figures betraying unmistakably a low origin, and ignorant and brutal114 parents. They did not appear wicked, but only stupid, animal, and soulless. It must require many generations of better life to wake the soul in them. All America could not show the like.
August 22d.—A Captain Auld115, an American, having died here yesterday, I went with my clerk and an American shipmaster to take the inventory116 of his effects. His boarding-house was in a mean street, an old dingy117 house, with narrow entrance,—the class of boarding-house frequented by mates of vessels118, and inferior to those generally patronized by masters. A fat elderly landlady119, of respectable and honest aspect, and her daughter, a pleasing young woman enough, received us, and ushered us into the deceased's bedchamber. It was a dusky back room, plastered and painted yellow; its one window looking into the very narrowest of back-yards or courts, and out on a confused multitude of back buildings, appertaining to other houses, most of them old, with rude chimneys of wash-rooms and kitchens, the bricks of which seemed half loose.
The chattels120 of the dead man were contained in two trunks, a chest, a sail-cloth bag, and a barrel, and consisted of clothing, suggesting a thickset, middle-sized man; papers relative to ships and business, a spyglass, a loaded iron pistol, some books of navigation, some charts, several great pieces of tobacco, and a few cigars; some little plaster images, that he had probably bought for his children, a cotton umbrella, and other trumpery121 of no great value. In one of the trunks we found about twenty pounds' worth of English and American gold and silver, and some notes of hand, due in America. Of all these things the clerk made an inventory; after which we took possession of the money and affixed122 the consular123 seal to the trunks, bag, and chest.
While this was going on, we heard a great noise of men quarrelling in an adjoining court; and, altogether, it seemed a squalid and ugly place to live in, and a most undesirable124 one to die in. At the conclusion of our labors125, the young woman asked us if we would not go into another chamber, and look at the corpse126, and appeared to think that we should be rather glad than otherwise of the privilege. But, never having seen the man during his lifetime, I declined to commence his acquaintance now.
His bills for board and nursing amount to about the sum which we found in his trunk; his funeral expenses will be ten pounds more; the surgeon has sent in a bill of eight pounds, odd shillings; and the account of another medical man is still to be rendered. As his executor, I shall pay his landlady and nurse; and for the rest of the expenses, a subscription127 must be made (according to the custom in such cases) among the shipmasters, headed by myself. The funeral pomp will consist of a hearse, one coach, four men, with crape hatbands, and a few other items, together with a grave at five pounds, over which his friends will be entitled to place a stone, if they choose to do so, within twelve months.
As we left the house, we looked into the dark and squalid dining-room, where a lunch of cold meat was set out; but having no associations with the house except through this one dead man, it seemed as if his presence and attributes pervaded128 it wholly. He appears to have been a man of reprehensible129 habits, though well advanced in years. I ought not to forget a brandy-flask (empty) among his other effects. The landlady and daughter made a good impression on me, as honest and respectable persons.
August 24th.—Yesterday, in the forenoon, I received a note, and shortly afterwards a call at the Consulate from Miss H——, whom I apprehend130 to be a lady of literary tendencies. She said that Miss L. had promised her an introduction, but that, happening to pass through Liverpool, she had snatched the opportunity to make my acquaintance. She seems to be a mature lady, rather plain, but with an honest and intelligent face. It was rather a singular freedom, methinks, to come down upon a perfect stranger in this way,—to sit with him in his private office an hour or two, and then walk about the streets with him, as she did; for I did the honors of Liverpool, and showed her the public buildings. Her talk was sensible, but not particularly brilliant nor interesting; a good, solid personage, physically131 and intellectually. She is an English woman.
In the afternoon, at three o'clock, I attended the funeral of Captain Auld. Being ushered into the dining-room of his boarding-house, I found brandy, gin, and wine set out on a tray, together with some little spicecakes. By and by came in a woman, who asked if I were going to the funeral; and then proceeded to put a mourning-band on my hat,—a black-silk band, covering the whole hat, and streaming nearly a yard behind. After waiting the better part of an hour, nobody else appeared, although several shipmasters had promised to attend. Hereupon, the undertaker was anxious to set forth132; but the landlady, who was arrayed in shining black silk, thought it a shame that the poor man should be buried with such small attendance. So we waited a little longer, during which interval133 I heard the landlady's daughter sobbing134 and wailing135 in the entry; and but for this tender-heartedness there would have been no tears at all. Finally we set forth,—the undertaker, a friend of his, and a young man, perhaps the landlady's son, and myself, in the black-plumed136 coach, and the landlady, her daughter, and a female friend, in the coach behind. Previous to this, however, everybody had taken some wine or spirits; for it seemed to be considered disrespectful not to do so.
Before us went the plumed hearse, a stately affair, with a bas-relief of funereal137 figures upon its sides. We proceeded quite across the city to the Necropolis, where the coffin138 was carried into a chapel, in which we found already another coffin, and another set of mourners, awaiting the clergyman. Anon he appeared,—a stern, broad-framed, large, and bald-headed man, in a black-silk gown. He mounted his desk, and read the service in quite a feeble and unimpressive way, though with no lack of solemnity. This done, our four bearers took up the coffin, and carried it out of the chapel; but, descending139 the steps, and, perhaps, having taken a little too much brandy, one of them stumbled, and down came the coffin,—not quite to the ground, however; for they grappled with it, and contrived140, with a great struggle, to prevent the misadventure. But I really expected to see poor Captain Auld burst forth among us in his grave-clothes.
The Necropolis is quite a handsome burial-place, shut in by high walls, so overrun with shrubbery that no part of the brick or stone is visible. Part of the space within is an ornamental141 garden, with flowers and green turf; the rest is strewn with flat gravestones, and a few raised monuments; and straight avenues run to and fro between. Captain Auld's grave was dug nine feet deep. It is his own for twelve months; but, if his friends do not choose to give him a stone, it will become a common grave at the end of that time; and four or five more bodies may then be piled upon his. Every one seemed greatly to admire the grave; the undertaker praised it, and also the dryness of its site, which he took credit to himself for having chosen. The grave-digger, too, was very proud of its depth, and the neatness of his handiwork. The clergyman, who had marched in advance of us from the chapel, now took his stand at the head of the grave, and, lifting his hat, proceeded with what remained of the service, while we stood bareheaded around. When he came to a particular part, "ashes to ashes, dust to dust," the undertaker lifted a handful of earth, and threw it rattling142 on the coffin,—so did the landlady's son, and so did I. After the funeral the undertaker's friend, an elderly, coarse-looking man, looked round him, and remarked that "the grass had never grown on the parties who died in the cholera143 year"; but at this the undertaker laughed in scorn.
As we returned to the gate of the cemetery, the sexton met us, and pointed144 to a small office, on entering which we found the clergyman, who was waiting for his burial-fees. There was now a dispute between the clergyman and the undertaker; the former wishing to receive the whole amount for the gravestone, which the undertaker, of course, refused to pay. I explained how the matter stood; on which the clergyman acquiesced145, civilly enough; but it was very strange to see the worldly, business-like way in which he entered into this squabble, so soon after burying poor Captain Auld.
During our drive back in the mourning-coach, the undertaker, his friend, and the landlady's son still kept descanting on the excellence146 of the grave,—"Such a fine grave,"—"Such a nice grave,"—"Such a splendid grave,"—and, really, they seemed almost to think it worth while to die, for the sake of being buried there. They deemed it an especial pity that such a grave should ever become a common grave. "Why," said they to me, "by paying the extra price you may have it for your own grave, or for your family!" meaning that we should have a right to pile ourselves over the defunct147 Captain. I wonder how the English ever attain148 to any conception of a future existence, since they so overburden themselves with earth and mortality in their ideas of funerals. A drive with an undertaker, in a sable-plumed coach!—talking about graves!—and yet he was a jolly old fellow, wonderfully corpulent, with a smile breaking out easily all over his face,—although, once in a while, he looked professionally lugubrious149.
All the time the scent76 of that horrible mourning-coach is in my nostrils150, and I breathe nothing but a funeral atmosphere.
Saturday, August 27th.—This being the gala-day of the manufacturing people about Liverpool, the steamboats to Rock Ferry were seasonably crowded with large parties of both sexes. They were accompanied with two bands of music, in uniform; and these bands, before I left the hotel, were playing, in competition and rivalry151 with each other in the coach-yard, loud martial152 strains from shining brass153 instruments. A prize is to be assigned to one or to the other of these bands, and I suppose this was a part of the competition. Meanwhile the merry-making people who thronged the courtyard were quaffing154 coffee from blue earthen mugs, which they brought with them,—as likewise they brought the coffee, and had it made in the hotel.
It had poured with rain about the time of their arrival, notwithstanding which they did not seem disheartened; for, of course, in this climate, it enters into all their calculations to be drenched155 through and through. By and by the sun shone out, and it has continued to shine and shade every ten minutes ever since. All these people were decently dressed; the men generally in dark clothes, not so smartly as Americans on a festal day, but so as not to be greatly different as regards dress. They were paler, smaller, less wholesome-looking and less intelligent, and, I think, less noisy, than so many Yankees would have been. The women and girls differed much more from what American girls and women would be on a pleasure-excursion, being so shabbily dressed, with no kind of smartness, no silks, nothing but cotton gowns, I believe, and ill-looking bonnets,— which, however, was the only part of their attire156 that they seemed to care about guarding from the rain. As to their persons, they generally looked better developed and healthier than the men; but there was a woful lack of beauty and grace, not a pretty girl among them, all coarse and vulgar. Their bodies, it seems to me, are apt to be very long in proportion to their limbs,—in truth, this kind of make is rather characteristic of both sexes in England. The speech of these folks, in some instances, was so broad Lancashire that I could not well understand it.
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1
consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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consulate
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| n.领事馆 | |
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expenditures
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| n.花费( expenditure的名词复数 )；使用；（尤指金钱的）支出额；（精力、时间、材料等的）耗费 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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acclimated
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| v.使适应新环境，使服水土服水土，适应( acclimate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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stewardess
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| n.空中小姐，女乘务员 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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despondent
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| adj.失望的，沮丧的，泄气的 | |
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chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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delegation
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| n.代表团；派遣 | |
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ushered
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| v.引，领，陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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alluding
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| 提及，暗指( allude的现在分词 ) | |
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laudatory
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| adj.赞扬的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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conversational
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| adj.对话的，会话的 | |
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20
abeyance
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| n.搁置，缓办，中止，产权未定 | |
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21
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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22
eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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briefly
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| adv.简单地，简短地 | |
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transit
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| n.经过，运输；vt.穿越，旋转；vi.越过 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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28
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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30
bugle
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| n.军号，号角，喇叭；v.吹号，吹号召集 | |
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31
upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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32
throng
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| n.人群，群众；v.拥挤，群集 | |
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33
mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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35
ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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38
nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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stipend
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| n.薪贴；奖学金；养老金 | |
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41
gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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42
tenant
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| n.承租人；房客；佃户；v.租借，租用 | |
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43
grouse
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| n.松鸡；v.牢骚，诉苦 | |
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44
protruding
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| v.（使某物）伸出，（使某物）突出( protrude的现在分词 )；凸 | |
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45
figs
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| figures 数字，图形，外形 | |
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46
insufficient
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| adj.(for，of)不足的，不够的 | |
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47
espied
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| v.看到( espy的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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48
concord
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| n.和谐；协调 | |
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49
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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50
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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51
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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52
subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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53
manure
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| n.粪，肥，肥粒；vt.施肥 | |
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54
spouted
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| adj.装有嘴的v.（指液体）喷出( spout的过去式和过去分词 )；滔滔不绝地讲；喋喋不休地说；喷水 | |
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55
dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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56
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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57
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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58
hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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59
ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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60
attic
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| n.顶楼，屋顶室 | |
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61
imprisoned
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| 下狱，监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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62
persecuted
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| （尤指宗教或政治信仰的）迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的过去式和过去分词 )； 烦扰，困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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63
devouring
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| 吞没( devour的现在分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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64
envelops
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的第三人称单数 ) | |
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65
dismantled
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| 拆开( dismantle的过去式和过去分词 )； 拆卸； 废除； 取消 | |
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66
solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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67
seamen
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| n.海员 | |
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68
labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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69
condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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70
plying
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| v.使用（工具）( ply的现在分词 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
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71
industriously
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72
atmospheric
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| adj.大气的，空气的；大气层的；大气所引起的 | |
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73
tinge
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| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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74
secondly
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| adv.第二，其次 | |
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75
scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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76
scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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77
courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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78
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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79
graveyard
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| n.坟场 | |
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80
edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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81
verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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82
warehouses
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| 仓库，货栈( warehouse的名词复数 ) | |
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83
thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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84
bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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85
rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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86
pertains
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| 关于( pertain的第三人称单数 )； 有关； 存在； 适用 | |
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87
sprouting
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| v.发芽( sprout的现在分词 )；抽芽；出现；（使）涌现出 | |
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88
inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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89
inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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90
effaced
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| v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 )；抹去；超越；使黯然失色 | |
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91
obliterate
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| v.擦去，涂抹，去掉...痕迹，消失，除去 | |
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92
cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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93
progenitors
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| n.祖先( progenitor的名词复数 )；先驱；前辈；原本 | |
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94
spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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95
tedium
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| n.单调；烦闷 | |
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96
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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97
trudge
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| v.步履艰难地走；n.跋涉，费力艰难的步行 | |
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98
onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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99
turnips
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| 芜青( turnip的名词复数 )； 芜菁块根； 芜菁甘蓝块根； 怀表 | |
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invoice
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| vt.开发票；n.发票，装货清单 | |
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101
prosper
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| v.成功，兴隆，昌盛；使成功，使昌隆，繁荣 | |
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102
recording
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| n.录音，记录 | |
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103
prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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104
nautical
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| adj.海上的，航海的，船员的 | |
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105
lieutenants
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| n.陆军中尉( lieutenant的名词复数 )；副职官员；空军；仅低于…官阶的官员 | |
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106
loyalty
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| n.忠诚，忠心 | |
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107
tunes
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| n.曲调，曲子( tune的名词复数 )v.调音( tune的第三人称单数 )；调整；（给收音机、电视等）调谐；使协调 | |
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108
oratory
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| n.演讲术；词藻华丽的言辞 | |
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109
embarrassment
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| n.尴尬；使人为难的人(事物)；障碍；窘迫 | |
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110
whitewashed
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| 粉饰，美化，掩饰( whitewash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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111
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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112
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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113
apprenticed
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| 学徒，徒弟( apprentice的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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114
brutal
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| adj.残忍的，野蛮的，不讲理的 | |
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115
auld
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| adj.老的，旧的 | |
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116
inventory
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| n.详细目录，存货清单 | |
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117
dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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landlady
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| n.女房东，女地主 | |
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chattels
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| n.动产，奴隶( chattel的名词复数 ) | |
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121
trumpery
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| n.无价值的杂物；adj.（物品）中看不中用的 | |
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affixed
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| adj.[医]附着的，附着的v.附加( affix的过去式和过去分词 )；粘贴；加以；盖（印章） | |
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consular
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| a.领事的 | |
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undesirable
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| adj.不受欢迎的，不良的，不合意的，讨厌的；n.不受欢迎的人，不良分子 | |
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labors
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| v.努力争取(for)( labor的第三人称单数 )；苦干；详细分析；（指引擎）缓慢而困难地运转 | |
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126
corpse
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| n.尸体，死尸 | |
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127
subscription
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| n.预订，预订费，亲笔签名，调配法，下标（处方） | |
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pervaded
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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reprehensible
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| adj.该受责备的 | |
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apprehend
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| vt.理解，领悟，逮捕，拘捕，忧虑 | |
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physically
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| adj.物质上，体格上，身体上，按自然规律 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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sobbing
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| <主方>Ⅰ adj.湿透的 | |
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135
wailing
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| v.哭叫，哀号( wail的现在分词 )；沱 | |
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plumed
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| 饰有羽毛的 | |
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funereal
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| adj.悲哀的；送葬的 | |
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coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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139
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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rattling
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| adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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cholera
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| n.霍乱 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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acquiesced
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| v.默认，默许( acquiesce的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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defunct
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| adj.死亡的；已倒闭的 | |
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148
attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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lugubrious
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| adj.悲哀的，忧郁的 | |
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150
nostrils
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| 鼻孔( nostril的名词复数 ) | |
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151
rivalry
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| n.竞争，竞赛，对抗 | |
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martial
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| adj.战争的，军事的，尚武的，威武的 | |
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153
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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154
quaffing
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| v.痛饮( quaff的现在分词 )；畅饮；大口大口将…喝干；一饮而尽 | |
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drenched
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| adj.湿透的；充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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