Closely connected with the church was the clergyman's house, a comfortable-looking residence; and likewise in the churchyard, with tombstones all about it, even almost at the threshold, so that the doorstep itself might have been a tombstone, was another house, of respectable size and aspect. We surmised9 that this might be the sexton's dwelling10, but it proved not to be so; and a woman, answering our knock, directed us to the place where he might be found. So Mr. Bradford and I went in search of him, leaving S——- seated on a tombstone. The sexton was a jolly-looking, ruddy-faced man, a mechanic of some sort, apparently11, and he followed us to the churchyard with much alacrity12. We found S——- standing13 at a gateway14, which opened into the most ancient, and now quite ruinous, part of the church, the present edifice15 covering much less ground than it did some centuries ago. We went through this gateway, and found ourselves in an enclosure of venerable walls, open to the sky, with old Norman arches standing about, beneath the loftiest of which the sexton told us the high altar used to stand. Of course, there were weeds and ivy16 growing in the crevices17, but not so abundantly as I have seen them elsewhere. The sexton pointed18 out a piece of a statue that had once stood in one of the niches, and which he himself, I think, had dug up from several feet below the earth; also, in a niche2 of the walls, high above our heads, he showed us an ancient wooden coffin19, hewn out of a solid log of oak, the hollow being made rudely in the shape of a human figure. This too had been dug up, and nobody knew how old it was. While we looked at all this solemn old trumpery20, the curate, quite a young man, stood at the back door of his house, elevated considerably21 above the ruins, with his young wife (I presume) and a friend or two, chatting cheerfully among themselves. It was pleasant to see them there. After examining the ruins, we went inside of the church, and found it a dim and dusky old place, quite paved over with tombstones, not an inch of space being left in the aisles22 or near the altar, or in any nook or corner, uncovered by a tombstone. There were also mural monuments and escutcheons, and close against the wall lay the mutilated statue of a Crusader, with his legs crossed, in the style which one has so often read about. The old fellow seemed to have been represented in chain armor; but he had been more battered23 and bruised24 since death than even during his pugnacious25 life, and his nose was almost knocked away. This figure had been dug up many years ago, and nobody knows whom it was meant to commemorate26.
The nave27 of the church is supported by two rows of Saxon pillars, not very lofty, but six feet six inches (so the sexton says) in diameter. They are covered with plaster, which was laid on ages ago, and is now so hard and smooth that I took the pillars to be really composed of solid shafts28 of gray stone. But, at one end of the church, the plaster had been removed from two of the pillars, in order to discover whether they were still sound enough to support the building; and they prove to be made of blocks of red freestone, just as sound as when it came from the quarry29; for though this stone soon crumbles30 in the open air, it is as good as indestructible when sheltered from the weather. It looked very strange to see the fresh hue31 of these two pillars amidst the dingy32 antiquity of the rest of the structure.
The body of the church is covered with pews, the wooden enclosures of which seemed of antique fashion. There were also modern stoves; but the sexton said it was very cold there, in spite of the stoves. It had, I must say, a disagreeable odor pervading33 it, in which the dead people of long ago had doubtless some share,—a musty odor, by no means amounting to a stench, but unpleasant, and, I should think, unwholesome. Old wood-work, and old stones, and antiquity of all kinds, moral and physical, go to make up this smell. I observed it in the cathedral, and Chester generally has it, especially under the Rows. After all, the necessary damp and lack of sunshine, in such a shadowy old church as this, have probably more to do with it than the dead people have; although I did think the odor was particularly strong over some of the tombstones. Not having shillings to give the sexton, we were forced to give him half a crown.
The Church of St. John is outside of the city walls. Entering the East gate, we walked awhile under the Rows, bought our tickets for Eaton Hall and its gardens, and likewise some playthings for the children; for this old city of Chester seems to me to possess an unusual number of toy-shops. Finally we took a cab, and drove to the Hall, about four miles distant, nearly the whole of the way lying through the wooded Park. There are many sorts of trees, making up a wilderness34, which looked not unlike the woods of our own Concord35, only less wild. The English oak is not a handsome tree, being short and sturdy, with a round, thick mass of foliage36, lying all within its own bounds. It was a showery day. Had there been any sunshine, there might doubtless have been many beautiful effects of light and shadow in these woods. We saw one or two herds37 of deer, quietly feeding, a hundred yards or so distant. They appeared to be somewhat wilder than cattle, but, I think, not much wilder than sheep. Their ancestors have probably been in a half-domesticated state, receiving food at the hands of man, in winter, for centuries. There is a kind of poetry in this, quite as much as if they were really wild deer, such as their forefathers38 were, when Hugh Lupus used to hunt them.
Our miserable39 cab drew up at the steps of Eaton Hall, and, ascending40 under the portico41, the door swung silently open, and we were received very civilly by two old men,—one, a tall footman in livery; the other, of higher grade, in plain clothes. The entrance-hall is very spacious42, and the floor is tessellated or somehow inlaid with marble. There was statuary in marble on the floor, and in niches stood several figures in antique armor, of various dates; some with lances, and others with battle-axes and swords. There was a two-handed sword, as much as six feet long; but not nearly so ponderous43 as I have supposed this kind of weapon to be, from reading of it. I could easily have brandished44 it.
I don't think I am a good sight-seer; at least, I soon get satisfied with looking at the sights, and wish to go on to the next.
The plainly dressed old man now led us into a long corridor, which goes, I think, the whole length of the house, about five hundred feet, arched all the way, and lengthened45 interminably by a looking-glass at the end, in which I saw our own party approaching like a party of strangers. But I have so often seen this effect produced in dry-goods stores and elsewhere, that I was not much impressed. There were family portraits and other pictures, and likewise pieces of statuary, along this arched corridor; and it communicated with a chapel46 with a scriptural altar-piece, copied from Rubens, and a picture of St. Michael and the Dragon, and two, or perhaps three, richly painted windows. Everything here is entirely47 new and fresh, this part having been repaired, and never yet inhabited by the family. This brand-newness makes it much less effective than if it had been lived in; and I felt pretty much as if I were strolling through any other renewed house. After all, the utmost force of man can do positively48 very little towards making grand things or beautiful things. The imagination can do so much more, merely on shutting one's eyes, that the actual effect seems meagre; so that a new house, unassociated with the past, is exceedingly unsatisfactory, especially when you have heard that the wealth mud skill of man has here done its best. Besides, the rooms, as we saw them, did not look by any means their best, the carpets not being down, and the furniture being covered with protective envelopes. However, rooms cannot be seen to advantage by daylight; it being altogether essential to the effect, that they should be illuminated49 by artificial light, which takes them somewhat out of the region of bare reality. Nevertheless, there was undoubtedly50 great splendor51, for the details of which I refer to the guide-book. Among the family portraits, there was one of a lady famous for her beautiful hand; and she was holding it up to notice in the funniest way, —and very beautiful it certainly was. The private apartments of the family were not shown us. I should think it impossible for the owner of this house to imbue52 it with his personality to such a degree as to feel it to be his home. It must be like a small lobster53 in a shell much too large for him.
After seeing what was to be seen of the rooms, we visited the gardens, in which are noble conservatories54 and hot-houses, containing all manner of rare and beautiful flowers, and tropical fruits. I noticed some large pines, looking as if they were really made of gold. The gardener (under-gardener I suppose he was) who showed this part of the spectacle was very intelligent as well as kindly55, and seemed to take an interest in his business. He gave S——- a purple everlasting56 flower, which will endure a great many years, as a memento57 of our visit to Eaton Hall. Finally, we took a view of the front of the edifice, which is very fine, and much more satisfactory than the interior,—and returned to Chester.
We strolled about under the unsavory Rows, sometimes scudding58 from side to side of the street, through the shower; took lunch in a confectioner's shop, and drove to the railway station in time for the three-o'clock train. It looked picturesque59 to see two little girls, hand in hand, racing60 along the ancient passages of the Rows; but Chester has a very evil smell.
At the railroad station, S——- saw a small edition of "Twice-Told Tales," forming a volume of the Cottage Library; and, opening it, there was the queerest imaginable portrait of myself,—so very queer that we could not but buy it. The shilling edition of "The Scarlet61 Letter" and "Seven Gables" are at all the book-stalls and shop-windows; but so is "The Lamplighter," and still more trashy books.
August 26th.—All past affairs, all home conclusions, all people whom I have known in America and meet again here, are strangely compelled to undergo a new trial. It is not that they suffer by comparison with circumstances of English life and forms of English manhood or womanhood; but, being free from my old surroundings, and the inevitable62 prejudices of home, I decide upon them absolutely.
I think I neglected to record that I saw Miss Martineau a few weeks since. She is a large, robust63, elderly woman, and plainly dressed; but withal she has so kind, cheerful, and intelligent a face that she is pleasanter to look at than most beauties. Her hair is of a decided64 gray, and she does not shrink from calling herself old. She is the most continual talker I ever heard; it is really like the babbling65 of a brook66, and very lively and sensible too; and all the while she talks, she moves the bowl of her ear-trumpet67 from one auditor68 to another, so that it becomes quite an organ of intelligence and sympathy between her and yourself. The ear-trumpet seems a sensible part of her, like the antennae69 of some insects. If you have any little remark to make, you drop it in; and she helps you to make remarks by this delicate little appeal of the trumpet, as she slightly directs it towards you; and if you have nothing to say, the appeal is not strong enough to embarrass you. All her talk was about herself and her affairs; but it did not seem like egotism, because it was so cheerful and free from morbidness70. And this woman is an Atheist71, and thinks that the principle of life will become extinct when her body is laid in the grave! I will not think so; were it only for her sake. What! only a few weeds to spring out of her mortality, instead of her intellect and sympathies flowering and fruiting forever!
September 13th.—My family went to Rhyl last Thursday, and on Saturday I joined them there, in company with O'Sullivan, who arrived in the Behama from Lisbon that morning. We went by way of Chester, and found S——- waiting for us at the Rhyl station. Rhyl is a most uninteresting place, —a collection of new lodging-houses and hotels, on a long sand-beach, which the tide leaves bare almost to the horizon. The sand is by no means a marble pavement, but sinks under the foot, and makes very heavy walking; but there is a promenade72 in front of the principal range of houses, looking on the sea, whereon we have rather better footing. Almost all the houses were full, and S——- had taken a parlor73 and two bedrooms, and is living after the English fashion, providing her own table, lights, fuel, and everything. It is very awkward to our American notions; but there is an independence about it, which I think must make it agreeable on better acquaintance. But the place is certainly destitute74 of attraction, and life seems to pass very heavily. The English do not appear to have a turn for amusing themselves.
Sunday was a bright and hot day, and in the forenoon I set out on a walk, not well knowing whither, over a very dusty road, with not a particle of shade along its dead level. The Welsh mountains were before me, at the distance of three or four miles,—long ridgy75 hills, descending76 pretty abruptly77 upon the plain; on either side of the road, here and there, an old whitewashed78, thatched stone cottage, or a stone farm-house, with an aspect of some antiquity. I never suffered so much before, on this side of the water, from heat and dust, and should probably have turned back had I not espied79 the round towers and walls of an old castle at some distance before me. Having looked at a guide-book, previously80 to setting out, I knew that this must be Rhyddlan Castle, about three miles from Rhyl; so I plodded81 on, and by and by entered an antiquated82 village, on one side of which the castle stood. This Welsh village is very much like the English villages, with narrow streets and mean houses or cottages, built in blocks, and here and there a larger house standing alone; everything far more compact than in our rural villages, and with no grassy83 street-margin nor trees; aged5 and dirty also, with dirty children staring at the passenger, and an undue84 supply of mean inns; most, or many of the men in breeches, and some of the women, especially the elder ones, in black beaver85 hats. The streets were paved with round pebbles86, and looked squalid and ugly.
The children and grown people stared lazily at me as I passed, but showed no such alert and vivacious87 curiosity as a community of Yankees would have done. I turned up a street that led me to the castle, which looked very picturesque close at hand,—more so than at a distance, because the towers and walls have not a sufficiently88 broken outline against the sky. There are several round towers at the angles of the wall very large in their circles, built of gray stone, crumbling89, ivy-grown, everything that one thinks of in an old ruin. I could not get into the inner space of the castle without climbing over a fence, or clambering down into the moat; so I contented90 myself with walking round it, and viewing it from the outside. Through the gateway I saw a cow feeding on the green grass in the inner court of the castle. In one of the walls there was a large triangular91 gap, where perhaps the assailants had made a breach92. Of course there were weeds on the ruinous top of the towers, and along the summit of the wall. This was the first castle built by Edward I. in Wales, and he resided here during the erection of Conway Castle, and here Queen Eleanor gave birth to a princess. Some few years since a meeting of Welsh bards93 was held within it.
After viewing it awhile, and listening to the babble94 of some children who lay on the grass near by, I resumed my walk, and, meeting a Welshman in the village street, I asked him my nearest way back to Rhyl. "Dim Sassenach," said he, after a pause. How odd that an hour or two on the railway should have brought me amongst a people who speak no English! Just below the castle, there is an arched stone bridge over the river Clwyd, and the best view of the edifice is from hence. It stands on a gentle eminence95, commanding the passage of the river, and two twin round towers rise close beside one another, whence, I suppose, archers96 have often drawn97 their bows against the wild Welshmen, on the river-banks. Behind was the line of mountains; and this was the point of defence between the hill country and the lowlands. On the bridge stood a good many idle Welshmen, leaning over the parapet, and looking at some small vessels98 that had come up the river from the sea. There was the frame of a new vessel99 on the stocks near by.
As I returned, on my way home, I again inquired my way of a man in breeches, who, I found, could speak English very well. He was kind, and took pains to direct me, giving me the choice of three ways, viz. the one by which I came, another across the fields, and a third by the embankment along the river-side. I chose the latter, and so followed the course of the Clwyd, which is very ugly, with a tidal flow and wide marshy100 banks. On its farther side was Rhyddlan marsh101, where a battle was fought between the Welsh and Saxons a thousand years ago. I have forgotten to mention that the castle and its vicinity was the scene of the famous battle of the fiddlers, between De Blandeville, Earl of Chester, and the Welsh, about the time of the Conqueror102.
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1
niches
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| 壁龛( niche的名词复数 )； 合适的位置[工作等]； （产品的）商机； 生态位（一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位） | |
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niche
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| n.壁龛；合适的职务(环境、位置等) | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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crumbled
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| （把…）弄碎， （使）碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 衰落； 坍塌； 损坏 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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obliterated
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| v.除去( obliterate的过去式和过去分词 )；涂去；擦掉；彻底破坏或毁灭 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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surmised
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| v.臆测，推断( surmise的过去式和过去分词 )；揣测；猜想 | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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alacrity
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| n.敏捷，轻快，乐意 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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trumpery
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| n.无价值的杂物；adj.（物品）中看不中用的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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pugnacious
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| adj.好斗的 | |
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commemorate
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| vt.纪念，庆祝 | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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quarry
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| n.采石场；v.采石；费力地找 | |
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crumbles
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| 酥皮水果甜点( crumble的名词复数 ) | |
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hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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pervading
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的现在分词 ) | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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concord
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| n.和谐；协调 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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forefathers
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| n.祖先，先人；祖先，祖宗( forefather的名词复数 )；列祖列宗；前人 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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portico
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| n.柱廊，门廊 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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43
ponderous
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| adj.沉重的，笨重的，(文章)冗长的 | |
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brandished
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| v.挥舞( brandish的过去式和过去分词 )；炫耀 | |
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lengthened
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| （时间或空间）延长，伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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46
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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imbue
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| v.灌输(某种强烈的情感或意见)，感染 | |
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53
lobster
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| n.龙虾，龙虾肉 | |
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54
conservatories
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| n.（培植植物的）温室，暖房( conservatory的名词复数 ) | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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everlasting
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| adj.永恒的，持久的，无止境的 | |
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memento
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| n.纪念品，令人回忆的东西 | |
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scudding
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| n.刮面v.（尤指船、舰或云彩）笔直、高速而平稳地移动( scud的现在分词 ) | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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racing
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| n.竞赛，赛马；adj.竞赛用的，赛马用的 | |
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scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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robust
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| adj.强壮的，强健的，粗野的，需要体力的，浓的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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babbling
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| n.胡说，婴儿发出的咿哑声adj.胡说的v.喋喋不休( babble的现在分词 )；作潺潺声（如流水）；含糊不清地说话；泄漏秘密 | |
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brook
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| n.小河，溪；v.忍受，容让 | |
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trumpet
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| n.喇叭，喇叭声；v.吹喇叭，吹嘘 | |
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auditor
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| n.审计员，旁听着 | |
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antennae
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| n.天线；触角 | |
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morbidness
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| （精神的）病态 | |
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atheist
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| n.无神论者 | |
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72
promenade
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| n./v.散步 | |
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parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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ridgy
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| adj.有脊的；有棱纹的；隆起的；有埂的 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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whitewashed
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| 粉饰，美化，掩饰( whitewash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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espied
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| v.看到( espy的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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plodded
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| v.沉重缓慢地走（路）( plod的过去式和过去分词 )；努力从事；沉闷地苦干；缓慢进行（尤指艰难枯燥的工作） | |
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antiquated
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| adj.陈旧的，过时的 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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undue
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| adj.过分的；不适当的；未到期的 | |
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beaver
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| n.海狸，河狸 | |
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86
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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vivacious
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| adj.活泼的，快活的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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triangular
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| adj.三角（形）的，三者间的 | |
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breach
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| n.违反，不履行；破裂；vt.冲破，攻破 | |
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bards
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| n.诗人( bard的名词复数 ) | |
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babble
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| v.含糊不清地说，胡言乱语地说，儿语 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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archers
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| n.弓箭手，射箭运动员( archer的名词复数 ) | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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99
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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100
marshy
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| adj.沼泽的 | |
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101
marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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102
conqueror
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| n.征服者，胜利者 | |
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