Worcester Cathedral would have impressed me much had I seen it earlier; though its aspect is less venerable than that of Chester or Lichfield, having been faithfully renewed and repaired, and stone-cutters and masons were even now at work on the exterior13. At our first visit, we found no entrance; but coming again at ten o'clock, when the service was to begin, we found the door open, and the chorister-boys, in their white robes, standing14 in the nave15 and aisles16, with elder people in the same garb17, and a few black-robed ecclesiastics18 and an old verger. The interior of the cathedral has been covered with a light-colored paint at some recent period. There is, as I remember, very little stained glass to enrich and bedim the light; and the effect produced is a naked, daylight aspect, unlike what I have seen in any other Gothic cathedral. The plan of the edifice, too, is simple; a nave and side aisles, with great clustered pillars, from which spring the intersecting arches; and, somehow or other, the venerable mystery which I have found in Westminster Abbey and elsewhere does not lurk19 in these arches and behind these pillars. The choir20, no doubt, is richer and more beautiful; but we did not enter it. I remember two tombs, with recumbent figures on there, between the pillars that divide the nave from the side aisles, and there were also mural monuments,—one, well executed, to an officer slain21 in the Peninsular war, representing him falling from his horse; another by a young widow to her husband, with an inscription of passionate22 grief, and a record of her purpose finally to sleep beside him. He died in 1803. I did not see on the monument any record of the consummation of her purpose; and so perhaps she sleeps beside a second husband. There are more antique memorials than these two on the wall, and I should have been interested to examine them; but the service was now about to begin in the choir, and at the far-off end of the nave the old verger waved his hand to banish23 us from the cathedral. At the same time he moved towards us, probably to say that he would show it to us after service; but having little time, and being so moderately impressed with what I had already seen, I took my departure, and so disappointed the old man of his expected shilling or half-crown. The tomb of King John is somewhere in this cathedral.
We renewed our rambles25 through the town, and, passing the Museum of the Worcester Natural History Society, I yielded to J——-'s wish to go in. There are three days in the week, I believe, on which it is open to the public; but this being one of the close days, we were admitted on payment of a shilling. It seemed a very good and well-arranged collection in most departments of Natural History, and J——-, who takes more interest in these matters than I do, was much delighted. We were left to examine the hall and galleries quite at our leisure. Besides the specimens26 of beasts, birds, shells, fishes, minerals, fossils, insects, and all other natural things before the flood and since, there was a stone bearing a Roman inscription, and various antiquities27, coins, and medals, and likewise portraits, some of which were old and curious.
Leaving the museum, we walked down to the stone bridge over the Severn, which is here the largest river I have seen in England, except, of course, the Mersey and the Thames. A flight of steps leads from the bridge down to a walk along the river-side, and this we followed till we reached the spot where an angler was catching28 chubs and dace, under the walls of the bishop's palace, which here faces the river. It seems to be an old building, but with modern repairs and improvements. The angler had pretty good success while we were looking at him, drawing out two or three silvery fish, and depositing them in his basket, which was already more than half full. The Severn is not a transparent29 stream, and looks sluggish30, but has really movement enough to carry the angler's float along pretty fast. There were two vessels32 of considerable size (that is, as large as small schooners) lying at the bridge. We now passed under an old stone archway, through a lane that led us from the river-side up past the cathedral, whence a gentleman and lady were just emerging, and the verger was closing the door behind them.
We returned to our hotel, and ordered luncheon33,—some cold chicken, cold ham, and ale, and after paying the bill (about fifteen shillings, to which I added five shillings for attendance) we took our departure in a fly for the railway. The waiter (a young woman), chambermaid, and boots, all favored us with the most benign34 and deferential35 looks at parting, whence it was easy to see that I had given them more than they had any claim to receive. Nevertheless, this English system of fees has its good side, and I never travel without finding the advantage of it, especially on railways, where the officials are strictly36 forbidden to take fees, and where, in consequence, a fee secures twice as much good service as anywhere else. Be it recorded, that I never knew an Englishman to refuse a shilling,—or, for that matter, a halfpenny.
From Worcester we took tickets to Wolverhampton, and thence to Birkenhead. It grew dark before we reached Chester, and began to rain; and when we got to Birkenhead it was a pitiless, pelting37 storm, under which, on the deck of the steamboat, we crossed the detestable Mersey, two years' trial of which has made me detest38 it every day more and more. It being the night of rejoicing for the taking of Sebastopol and the visit of the Duke of Cambridge, we found it very difficult to get a cab on the Liverpool side; but after much waiting in the rain, and afterwards in one of the refreshment-rooms, on the landing stage, we took a Hansom and drove off. The cloudy sky reflected the illuminations, and we saw some gas-lighted stars and other devices, as we passed, very pretty, but much marred39 by the wind and rain. So we finally arrived at Mrs. Blodgett's, and made a good supper of ham and cold chicken, like our luncheon, after which, wet as we were, and drizzling40 as the weather was, and though it was two hours beyond his bedtime, I took J——- out to see the illuminations. I wonder what his mother would have said. But the boy must now begin to see life and to feel it.
There was a crowd of people in the street; such a crowd that we could hardly make a passage through them, and so many cabs and omnibuses that it was difficult to cross the ways. Some of the illuminations were very brilliant; but there was a woful lack of variety and invention in the devices. The star of the garter, which kept flashing out from the continual extinguishment of the wind and rain,—V and A, in capital letters of light,—were repeated a hundred times; as were loyal and patriotic41 mottoes,—crowns formed by colored lamps. In some instances a sensible tradesman had illuminated42 his own sign, thereby43 at once advertising44 his loyalty and his business. Innumerable flags were suspended before the houses and across the streets, and the crowd plodded45 on, silent, heavy, and without any demonstration46 of joy, unless by the discharge of pistols close at one's ear. The rain, to be sure, was quite sufficient to damp any joyous47 ebullition of feeling; but the next day, when the rain had ceased, and when the streets were still thronged49 with people, there was the same heavy, purposeless strolling from place to place, with no more alacrity50 of spirit than while it rained. The English do not know how to rejoice; and, in their present circumstances, to say the truth, have not much to rejoice for. We soon came home; but I believe it was nearly, if not quite, eleven.
At Mrs. Blodgett's, Mr. Archer51 (surgeon to some prison or house of correction here in Liverpool) spoke52 of an attorney who many years ago committed forgery53, and, being apprehended54, took a dose of prussic acid. Mr. Archer came with the stomach-pump, and asked the patient how much prussic acid he had taken. "Sir," he replied, attorney-like, "I decline answering that question!" He recovered, and afterwards arrived at great wealth in New South Wales.
November 14th.—At dinner at Mr. Bright's, a week or two ago, Mr. Robertson Gladstone spoke of a magistrate55 of Liverpool, many years since, Sir John ———. Of a morning, sitting on the bench in the police court, he would take five shillings out of his pocket and say, "Here, Mr. Clerk, so much for my fine. I was drunk last night!" Mr. Gladstone witnessed this personally.
November 16th.—I went to the North Hospital yesterday, to take the deposition56 of a dying man as to his ill treatment by the second and third mates of the ship Assyria, on the voyage from New Orleans. This hospital is a very gloomy place, with its wide bleak57 entries and staircases, which may be very good for summer weather, but which are most congenial at this bleak November season. I found the physicians of the house laughing and talking very cheerfully with Mr. Wilding, who had preceded me. We went forthwith, up two or three pairs of stairs, to the ward24 where the sick man lay, and where there were six or eight other beds, in almost each of which was a patient,—narrow beds, shabbily furnished. The man whom I came to see was the only one who was not perfectly58 quiet; neither was he very restless. The doctor, informing him of my presence, intimated that his disease might be lethal59, and that I was come to hear what he had to say as to the causes of his death. Afterwards, a Testament60 was sought for, in order to swear him, and I administered the oath, and made him kiss the book. He then (in response to Mr. Wilding's questions) told how he had been beaten and ill-treated, hanged and thwacked, from the moment he came on board, to which usage he ascribed his death. Sometimes his senses seemed to sink away, so that I almost thought him dead; but by and by the questions would appear to reach him, and bring him back, and he went on with his evidence, interspersing61 it, however, with dying groans62, and almost death rattles63. In the midst of whatever he was saying, he often recurred64 to a sum of four dollars and a half, which he said he had put into the hands of the porter of the hospital, and which he wanted to get back. Several times he expressed his wish to return to America (of which he was not a native), and, on the whole, I do not think he had any real sense of his precarious65 condition, notwithstanding that he assented66 to the doctor's hint to that effect. He sank away so much at one time, that they brought him wine in a tin cup, with a spout67 to drink out of, and he mustered68 strength to raise himself in his bed and drink; then hemmed69, with rather a disappointed air, as if it did not stimulate70 and refresh him, as drink ought to do. When he had finished his evidence (which Mr. Wilding took down in writing from his mouth), he marked his cross at the foot of the paper, and we ceased to torment71 him with further question. His deposition will probably do no good, so far as the punishment of the persons implicated72 is concerned; for he appears to have come on board in a sickly state, and never to have been well during the passage. On a pallet, close by his bed, lay another seaman73 of the same ship, who had likewise been abused by the same men, and bore more ostensible74 marks of ill usage than this man did, about the head and face. There is a most dreadful state of things aboard our ships. Hell itself can be no worse than some of them, and I do pray that some New-Englander with the rage of reform in him may turn his thoughts this way. The first step towards better things—the best practicable step for the present—is to legalize flogging on shipboard; thereby doing away with the miscellaneous assaults and batteries, kickings, fisticuffings, ropes'-endings, marline-spikings, which the inferior officers continually perpetrate, as the only mode of keeping up anything like discipline. As in many other instances, philanthropy has overshot itself by the prohibition75 of flogging, causing the captain to avoid the responsibility of solemn punishment, and leave his mates to make devils of themselves, by habitual76 and hardly avoidable ill treatment of the seamen77.
After I left the dying sailor, his features seemed to contract and grow sharp. Some young medical students stood about the bed, watching death creep upon him, and anticipating, perhaps, that in a day or two they would have the poor fellow's body on the dissecting-table. Dead patients, I believe, undergo this fate, unless somebody chooses to pay their funeral expenses; but the captain of the Assyria (who seems to be respectable and kind-hearted, though master of a floating hell) tells me that he means to bury the man at his own cost. This morning there is a note from the surgeon of the hospital, announcing his death, and likewise the dangerous state of his shipmate whom I saw on the pallet beside him.
Sea-captains call a dress-coat a "claw-hammer."
November 22d.—I went on board the ship William Lapscott, lying in the river, yesterday, to take depositions78 in reference to a homicide committed in New York. I sat on a sofa in the cabin, and Mr. Wilding at a table, with his writing-materials before him, and the crew were summoned, one by one,—rough, piratical-looking fellows, contrasting strongly with the gewgaw cabin in which I received them. There is no such finery on land as in the cabin of one of these ships in the Liverpool trade, finished off with a complete panelling of rosewood, mahogany, and bird's-eye maple79, polished and varnished80, and gilded81 along the cornices and the edges of the panels. It is all a piece of elaborate cabinet-work; and one does not altogether see why it should be given to the gales82, and the salt-sea atmosphere, to be tossed upon the waves, and occupied by a rude shipmaster in his dreadnaught clothes, when the fairest lady in the land has no such boudoir. A telltale compass hung beneath the skylight, and a clock was fastened near it, and ticked loudly. A stewardess83, with the aspect of a woman at home, went in and out of the cabin, about her domestic calls. Through the cabin door (it being a house on deck) I could see the arrangement of the ship.
The first sailor that I examined was a black-haired, powerful fellow, in an oil-skin jacket, with a good face enough, though he, too, might have been taken for a pirate. In the affray in which the homicide occurred, he had received a cut across the forehead, and another slantwise across his nose, which had quite cut it in two, on a level with the face, and had thence gone downward to his lower jaw84. But neither he nor any one else could give any testimony85 elucidating86 the matter into which I had come to inquire. A seaman had been stabbed just before the vessel31 left New York, and had been sent on shore and died there. Most of these men were in the affray, and all of then were within a few yards of the spot where it occurred; but those actually present all pleaded that they were so drunk that the whole thing was now like a dream, with no distinct images; and, if any had been sober, they took care to know nothing that could inculpate87 any individual. Perhaps they spoke truth; they certainly had a free and honest-like way of giving their evidence, as if their only object was to tell all the truth they knew. But I rather think, in the forecastle, and during the night-watches, they have whispered to one another a great deal more than they told me, and have come to a pretty accurate conclusion as to the man who gave the stab.
While the examination proceeded, there was a drawing of corks88 in a side closet; and, at its conclusion, the captain asked us to stay to dinner, but we excused ourselves, and drank only a glass of wine. The captain apologized for not joining us, inasmuch as he had drunk no wine for the last seventeen years. He appears to be a particularly good and trustworthy man, and is the only shipmaster whom I have met with, who says that a crew can best be governed by kindness. In the inner closet there was a cage containing two land-birds, who had come aboard him, tired almost to death, three or four hundred miles from shore; and he had fed them and been tender of them, from a sense of what was due to hospitality. He means to give them to J——-.
November 28th.—I have grown wofully aristocratic in my tastes, I fear, since coming to England; at all events, I am conscious of a certain disgust at going to dine in a house with a small entrance-hall and a narrow staircase, parlor90 with chintz curtains, and all other arrangements on a similar scale. This is pitiable. However, I really do not think I should mind these things, were it not for the bustle91, the affectation, the intensity92, of the mistress of the house. It is certain that a woman in England is either decidedly a lady or decidedly not a lady. There seems to be no respectable medium. Bill of fare: broiled93 soles, half of a roast pig, a haricot of mutton, stewed94 oysters95, a tart96, pears, figs97, with sherry and port wine, both good, and the port particularly so. I ate some pig, and could hardly resist the lady's importunities to eat more; though to my fancy it tasted of swill,—had a flavor of the pigsty98. On the parlor table were some poor editions of popular books, Longfellow's poems and others. The lady affects a literary taste, and bothered me about my own productions.
A beautiful subject for a romance, or for a sermon, would be the subsequent life of the young man whom Jesus bade to sell all he had and give to the poor; and he went away sorrowful, and is not recorded to have done what he was bid.
December 11th.—This has been a foggy morning and forenoon, snowing a little now and then, and disagreeably cold. The sky is of an inexpressibly dreary, dun color. It is so dark at times that I have to hold my book close to my eyes, and then again it lightens up a little. On the whole, disgustingly gloomy; and thus it has been for a long while past, although the disagreeableness seems to be very near the earth, and just above the steeples and house-tops very probably there may be a bright, sunshiny day. At about twelve there is a faint glow of sunlight, like the gleaming reflection from a not highly polished copper99 kettle.
December 26th.—On Christmas eve and yesterday, there were little branches of mistletoe hanging in several parts of the house, in the kitchen, the entries, the parlor, and the smoking-room,—suspended from the gas-fittings. The maids of the house did their utmost to entrap100 the gentlemen boarders, old and young; under the privileged places, and there to kiss them, after which they were expected to pay a shilling. It is very queer, being customarily so respectful, that they should assume this license101 now, absolutely trying to pull the gentlemen into the kitchen by main force, and kissing the harder and more abundantly the more they were resisted. A little rosy-checked Scotch102 lass—at other times very modest —was the most active in this business. I doubt whether any gentleman but myself escaped. I heard old Mr. S——— parleying with the maids last evening, and pleading his age; but he seems to have met with no mercy, for there was a sound of prodigious103 smacking104 immediately afterwards. J——- was assaulted, and fought, most vigorously; but was outrageously107 kissed,—receiving some scratches, moreover, in the conflict. The mistletoe has white, wax-looking berries, and dull green leaves, with a parasitical108 stem.
Early in the morning of Christmas day, long before daylight, I heard music in the street, and a woman's voice, powerful and melodious109, singing a Christmas hymn110. Before bedtime I presume one half of England, at a moderate calculation, was the worse for liquor.
The market-houses, at this season, show the national taste for heavy feeding,—carcasses of prize oxen, immensely fat, and bulky; fat sheep, with their woolly heads and tails still on, and stars and other devices ingeniously wrought111 on the quarters; fat pigs, adorned112 with flowers, like corpses113 of virgins114; hares, wild-fowl, geese, ducks, turkeys; and green boughs115 and banners suspended about the stalls,—and a great deal of dirt and griminess on the stone floor of the market-house, and on the persons of the crowd.
There are some Englishmen whom I like,—one or two for whom I might say I have an affection; but still there is not the same union between us as if they were Americans. A cold, thin medium intervenes betwixt our most intimate approaches. It puts me in mind of Alnaschar and his princess, with the cold steel blade of his scimitar between them. Perhaps if I were at home I might feel differently; but in a foreign land I can never forget the distinction between English and American.
January 1st, 1856.—Last night, at Mrs. Blodgett's, we sat up till twelve o'clock to open the front door, and let the New Year in. After the coming guest was fairly in the house, the back door was to be opened, to let the Old Year out; but I was tired, and did not wait for the latter ceremony. When the New Year made its entrance, there was a general shaking of hands, and one of the shipmasters said that it was customary to kiss the ladies all round; but to my great satisfaction, we did not proceed to such extremity116. There was singing in the streets, and many voices of people passing, and when twelve had struck, all the bells of the town, I believe, rang out together. I went up stairs, sad and lonely, and, stepping into J——-'s little room, wished him a Happy New Year, as he slept, and many of them.
To a cool observer, a country does not show to best advantage during a time of war. All its self-conceit is doubly visible, and, indeed, is sedulously117 kept uppermost by direct appeals to it. The country must be humbugged, in order to keep its courage up.
Sentiment seems to me more abundant in middle-aged119 ladies in England than in the United States. I don't know how it may be with young ladies.
The shipmasters bear testimony to the singular delicacy120 of common sailors in their behavior in the presence of women; and they say that this good trait is still strongly observable even in the present race of seamen, greatly deteriorated121 as it is. On shipboard, there is never an indecorous word or unseemly act said or done by sailors when a woman can be cognizant of it; and their deportment in this respect differs greatly from that of landsmen of similar position in society. This is remarkable1, considering that a sailor's female acquaintances are usually and exclusively of the worst kind, and that his intercourse122 with them has no relation whatever to morality or decency123. For this very reason, I suppose, he regards a modest woman as a creature divine and to be reverenced124.
January 16th.—-I have suffered wofully from low spirits for some time past; and this has not often been the case since I grew to be a man, even in the least auspicious125 periods of my life. My desolate126 bachelor condition, I suppose, is the cause. Really, I have no pleasure in anything, and I feel my tread to be heavier, and my physical movement more sluggish, than in happier times. A weight is always upon me. My appetite is not good. I sleep ill, lying awake till late at night, to think sad thoughts and to imagine sombre things, and awaking before light with the same thoughts and fancies still in my mind. My heart sinks always as I ascend127 the stairs to my office, from a dim augury128 of ill news from Lisbon that I may perhaps hear,—of black-sealed letters, or some such horrors. Nothing gives me any joy. I have learned what the bitterness of exile is, in these days; and I never should have known it but for the absence of "Remote, unfriended, melancholy129, slow,"—I can perfectly appreciate that line of Goldsmith; for it well expresses my own torpid130, unenterprising, joyless state of mind and heart. I am like an uprooted131 plant, wilted132 and drooping133. Life seems so purposeless as not to be worth the trouble of carrying it on any further.
I was at a dinner, the other evening, at Mr. B———'s, where the entertainment was almost entirely134 American,—New York oysters, raw, stewed, and fried; soup of American partridges, particularly good; also terrapin135 soup, rich, but not to my taste; American pork and beans, baked in Yankee style; a noble American turkey, weighing thirty-one pounds; and, at the other end of the table, an American round of beef, which the Englishmen present allowed to be delicious, and worth a guinea an ounce. I forget the other American dishes, if there were any more,—O yes! canvas-back ducks, coming on with the sweets, in the usual English fashion. We ought to have had Catawba wine; but this was wanting, although there was plenty of hock, champagne136, sherry, madeira, port, and claret. Our host is a very jolly man, and the dinner was a merrier and noisier one than any English dinner within my experience.
February 8th.—I read to-day, in the little office-Bible (greasy with perjuries) St. Luke's account of the agony, the trial, the crucifixion, and the resurrection; and how Christ appeared to the two disciples137, on their way to Emmaus, and afterwards to a company of disciples. On both these latter occasions he expounded138 the Scriptures139 to them, and showed the application of the old prophecies to himself; and it is to be supposed that he made them fully12, or at least sufficiently140, aware what his character was,—whether God, or man, or both, or something between, together with all other essential points of doctrine141. But none of this doctrine or of these expositions is recorded, the mere142 facts being most simply stated, and the conclusion to which he led them, that, whether God himself, or the Son of God, or merely the Son of man, he was, at all events, the Christ foretold143 in the Jewish Scriptures. This last, therefore, must have been the one essential point.
February 18th.—On Saturday there called on me an elderly Robinson-Crusoe sort of man, Mr. H———, shipwright144, I believe, of Boston, who has lately been travelling in the East. About a year ago he was here, after being shipwrecked on the Dutch coast, and I assisted him to get home. Again, I have supplied him with five pounds, and my credit for an outside garment. He is a spare man, with closely cropped gray, or rather white hair, close-cropped whiskers fringing round his chin, and a close-cropped white mustache, with his under lip and a portion of his chin bare beneath,—sunburnt and weather-worn. He has been in Syria and Jerusalem, through the Desert, and at Sebastopol; and says he means to get Ticknor to publish his travels, and the story of his whole adventurous145 life, on his return home. A free-spoken, confiding146, hardy147, religious, unpolished, simple, yet world-experienced man; very talkative, and boring me with longer visits than I like. He has brought home, among other curiosities, "a lady's arm," as he calls it, two thousand years old,—a piece of a mummy, of course; also some coins, one of which, a gold coin of Vespasian, he showed me, and said he bought it of an Arab of the desert. The Bedouins possess a good many of these coins, handed down immemorially from father to son, and never sell them unless compelled by want. He had likewise a Hebrew manuscript of the Book of Ruth, on a parchment roll, which was put into his care to be given to Lord Haddo.
He was at Sebastopol during the siege, and nearly got his head knocked off by a cannon-ball. His strangest statement is one in reference to Lord Raglan. He says that an English officer told him that his Lordship shut himself up, desiring not to be disturbed, as he needed sleep. When fifteen hours had gone by, his attendants thought it time to break open the door; and Lord Raglan was found dead, with a bottle of strychnine by the bedside. The affair, so far as the circumstances indicated suicide, was hushed up, and his death represented as a natural one. The English officer seems to have been an unscrupulous fellow, jesting thus with the fresh memory of his dead commander; for it is impossible to believe a word of the story. Even if Lord Raglan had wished for death, he would hardly have taken strychnine, when there were so many chances of being honorably shot. In Wood's Narrative148 of the Campaign, it is stated that he died surrounded by the members of his staff, after having been for some time ill. It appears, however, by the same statement, that no serious apprehensions149 had been entertained, until, one afternoon, he shut himself in, desiring not to be disturbed till evening. After two or three hours he called Lord Burghersh,—"Frank, Frank!" and was found to be almost in a state of collapse151, and died that evening. Mr. H———'s story might very well have been a camp rumor152.
It seems to me that the British Ministry153, in its notion of a life-peerage, shows an entire misunderstanding of what makes people desire the peerage. It is not for the immediate105 personal distinction; but because it removes the peer and his consanguinity154 from the common rank of men, and makes a separate order of them, as if they should grow angelic. A life-peer is but a mortal amid the angelic throng48.
February 28th.—I went yesterday with Mrs. ——— and another lady, and Mr. M———, to the West Derby Workhouse. . . .
[Here comes in the visit to the West Derby Workhouse, which was made the subject of a paper in Our Old Home, called "Outside Glimpses of English Poverty." As the purpose in publishing these passages from the private note-books is to give to those who ask for a memoir156 of Mr. Hawthorne every possible incident recorded by himself which shows his character and nature, the editor thinks it proper to disclose the fact that Mr. Hawthorne was himself the gentleman of that party who took up in his arms the little child, so fearfully repulsive157 in its condition. And it seems better to quote his own words in reference to it, than merely to say it was he.
Under date February 28, 1856.
"After this, we went to the ward where the children were kept, and, on entering this, we saw, in the first place, two or three unlovely and unwholesome little imps155, who were lazily playing together. One of them (a child about six years old, but I know not whether girl or boy) immediately took the strangest fancy for me. It was a wretched, pale, half-torpid little thing, with a humor in its eyes which the Governor said was the scurvy159. I never saw, till a few moments afterwards, a child that I should feel less inclined to fondle.
"But this little, sickly, humor-eaten fright prowled around me, taking hold of my skirts, following at my heels, and at last held up its hands, smiled in my face, and, standing directly before me, insisted on my taking it up! Not that it said a word, for I rather think it was underwitted, and could not talk; but its face expressed such perfect confidence that it was going to be taken up and made much of, that it was impossible not to do it. It was as if God had promised the child this favor on my behalf, and that I must needs fulfil the contract. I held my undesirable160 burden a little while; and, after setting the child down, it still followed me, holding two of my fingers and playing with them, just as if it were a child of my own. It was a foundling, and out of all human kind it chose me to be its father! We went up stairs into another ward; and, on coming down again, there was this same child waiting for me, with a sickly smile round its defaced mouth, and in its dim red eyes. . . . I never should have forgiven myself if I had repelled161 its advances."—ED.]
After leaving the workhouse, we drove to Norris Green; and Mrs. ——— showed me round the grounds, which are very good and nicely kept. O these English homes, what delightful162 places they are! I wonder how many people live and die in the workhouse, having no other home, because other people have a great deal more home than enough. . . . We had a very pleasant dinner, and Mr. M——— and I walked back, four miles and a half, to Liverpool, where we arrived just before midnight.
Why did Christ curse the fig-tree? It was not in the least to blame; and it seems most unreasonable163 to have expected it to bear figs out of season. Instead of withering164 it away, it would have been as great a miracle, and far more beautiful, and, one would think, of more beneficent influence, to have made it suddenly rich with ripe fruit. Then, to be sure, it might have died joyfully165, having answered so good a purpose. I have been reminded of this miracle by the story of a man in Heywood, a town in Lancashire, who used such horribly profane166 language that a plane-tree in front of his cottage is said to have withered167 away from that hour. I can draw no moral from the incident of the fig-tree, unless it be that all things perish from the instant when they cease to answer some divine purpose.
March 6th.—Yesterday I lunched on board Captain Russell's ship, the Princeton. These daily lunches on shipboard might answer very well the purposes of a dinner; being, in fact, noontide dinners, with soup, roast mutton, mutton-chops, and a macaroni pudding,—brandy, port and sherry wines. There were three elderly Englishmen at table, with white heads, which, I think, is oftener the predicament of elderly heads here than in America. One of these was a retired168 Custom-House officer, and the other two were connected with shipping169 in some way. There is a satisfaction in seeing Englishmen eat and drink, they do it so heartily170, and, on the whole, so wisely,—trusting so entirely that there is no harm in good beef and mutton, and a reasonable quantity of good liquor; and these three hale old men, who had acted on this wholesome158 faith for so long, were proofs that it is well on earth to live like earthly creatures. In America, what squeamishness, what delicacy, what stomachic apprehension150, would there not be among three stomachs of sixty or seventy years' experience! I think this failure of American stomachs is partly owing to our ill usage of our digestive powers, and partly to our want of faith in them.
After lunch, we all got into an omnibus, and went to the Mersey Iron Foundry, to see the biggest piece of ordnance171 in the world, which is almost finished. The overseer of the works received us, and escorted us courteously172 throughout the establishment; which is very extensive, giving employment to a thousand men, what with night-work and day-work. The big gun is still on the axle, or turning-machine, by means of which it has been bored. It is made entirely of wrought and welded iron, fifty tons of which were originally used; and the gun, in its present state, bored out and smoothed away, weighs nearly twenty-three tons. It has, as yet, no trunnions, and does not look much like a cannon, but only a huge iron cylinder173, immensely solid, and with a bore so large that a young man of nineteen shoved himself into it, the whole length, with a light, in order to see whether it is duly smooth and regular. I suppose it will have a better effect, as to the impression of size, when it is finished, polished, mounted, aid fully equipped, after the fashion of ordinary cannon. It is to throw a ball of three hundred pounds' weight five miles, and woe174 be to whatever ship or battlement shall bear the brunt!
After inspecting the gun we went through other portions of the establishment, and saw iron in various stages of manufacture. I am not usually interested in manufacturing processes, being quite unable to understand them, at least in cotton-machinery175 and the like; but here there were such exhibitions of mighty176 strength, both of men and machines, that I had a satisfaction in looking on. We saw lumps of iron, intensely white-hot, and in all but a melting state, passed through rollers of various size and pressure, and speedily converted into long bars, which came curling and waving out of the rollers like great red ribbons, or like fiery177 serpents wriggling178 out of Tophet; and finally, being straightened out, they were laid to cool in heaps. Trip-hammers are very pleasant things to look at, working so massively as they do, and yet so accurately179; chewing up the hot iron, as it were, and fashioning it into shape, with a sort of mighty and gigantic gentleness in their mode of action. What great things man has contrived180, and is continually performing! What a noble brute181 he is!
Also, I found much delight in looking at the molten iron, boiling and bubbling in the furnace, and sometimes slopping over, when stirred by the attendant. There were numberless fires on all sides, blinding us with their intense glow; and continually the pounding strokes of huge hammers, some wielded182 by machinery and others by human arms. I had a respect for these stalwart workmen, who seemed to be near kindred of the machines amid which they wrought,—mighty men, smiting183 stoutly184, and looking into the fierce eyes of the furnace fearlessly, and handling the iron at a temperature which would have taken the skin off from ordinary fingers. They looked strong, indeed, but pale; for the hot atmosphere in which they live cannot but be deleterious, and I suppose their very strength wears them quickly out. But I would rather live ten years as an iron-smith than fifty as a tailor.
So much heat can be concentrated into a mass of iron, that a lump a foot square heats all the atmosphere about it, and burns the face at a considerable distance. As the trip-hammer strikes the lump, it seems still more to intensify185 the heat by squeezing it together, and the fluid iron oozes186 out like sap or juice.
"He was ready for the newest fashions!"—this expression was used by Mrs. Blodgett in reference to Mr. ——— on his first arrival in England, and it is a very tender way of signifying that a person is rather poorly off as to apparel.
March 15th.—Mr. ———, our new ambassador, arrived on Thursday afternoon by the Atlantic, and I called at the Adelphi Hotel, after dinner, to pay him my respects. I found him and his family at supper. . . . They seem to be plain, affable people. . . . The ambassador is a venerable old gentleman, with a full head of perfectly white hair, looking not unlike an old-fashioned wig187; and this, together with his collarless white neckcloth and his brown coat, gave him precisely188 such an aspect as one would expect in a respectable person of pre-revolutionary days. There was a formal simplicity189, too, in his manners, that might have belonged to the same era. He must have been a very handsome man in his youthful days, and is now comely190, very erect191, moderately tall, not overburdened with flesh; of benign and agreeable address, with a pleasant smile; but his eyes, which are not very large, impressed me as sharp and cold. He did not at all stamp himself upon me as a man of much intellectual or characteristic vigor106. I found no such matter in his conversation, nor did I feel it in the indefinable way by which strength always makes itself acknowledged. B———, though, somehow, plain and uncouth192, yet vindicates193 himself as a large man of the world, able, experienced, fit to handle difficult circumstances of life; dignified194, too, and able to hold his own in any society. Mr. ——— has a kind of venerable dignity; but yet, if a person could so little respect himself as to insult him, I should say that there was no innate195 force in Mr. ——— to prevent it. It is very strange that he should have made so considerable a figure in public life, filling offices that the strongest men would have thought worthy89 of their highest ambition. There must be something shrewd and sly under his apparent simplicity; narrow, cold, selfish, perhaps. I fancied these things in his eyes. He has risen in life by the lack of too powerful qualities, and by a certain tact196, which enables him to take advantage of circumstances and opportunities, and avail himself of his unobjectionableness, just at the proper time. I suppose he must be pronounced a humbug118, yet almost or quite an innocent one. Yet he is a queer representative to be sent from brawling197 and boisterous198 America at such a critical period. It will be funny if England sends him back again, on hearing the news of ———'s dismissal. Mr. ——— gives me the impression of being a very amiable199 man in his own family. He has brought his son with him, as Secretary of Legation,—a small young man, with a little mustache. It will be a feeble embassy.
I called again the next morning, and introduced Mrs. ———, who, I believe, accompanied the ladies about town. This simplicity in Mr. ———'s manner puzzles and teases me; for, in spite of it, there was a sort of self-consciousness, as if he were being looked at,—as if he were having his portrait taken.
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1
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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modernized
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| 使现代化，使适应现代需要( modernize的过去式和过去分词 )； 现代化，使用现代方法 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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loyalty
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| n.忠诚，忠心 | |
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inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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garb
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| n.服装，装束 | |
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ecclesiastics
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| n.神职者，教会，牧师( ecclesiastic的名词复数 ) | |
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lurk
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| n.潜伏，潜行；v.潜藏，潜伏，埋伏 | |
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choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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passionate
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，激昂的，易动情的，易怒的，性情暴躁的 | |
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banish
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| vt.放逐，驱逐；消除，排除 | |
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ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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rambles
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| （无目的地）漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 )； （喻）漫谈； 扯淡； 长篇大论 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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sluggish
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| adj.懒惰的，迟钝的，无精打采的 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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benign
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| adj.善良的，慈祥的；良性的，无危险的 | |
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deferential
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| adj. 敬意的，恭敬的 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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pelting
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| 微不足道的，无价值的，盛怒的 | |
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detest
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| vt.痛恨，憎恶 | |
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marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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drizzling
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| 下蒙蒙细雨，下毛毛雨( drizzle的现在分词 ) | |
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patriotic
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| adj.爱国的，有爱国心的 | |
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illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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43
thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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advertising
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| n.广告业；广告活动 a.广告的；广告业务的 | |
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45
plodded
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| v.沉重缓慢地走（路）( plod的过去式和过去分词 )；努力从事；沉闷地苦干；缓慢进行（尤指艰难枯燥的工作） | |
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46
demonstration
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| n.表明，示范，论证，示威 | |
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joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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throng
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| n.人群，群众；v.拥挤，群集 | |
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thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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50
alacrity
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| n.敏捷，轻快，乐意 | |
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51
archer
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| n.射手，弓箭手 | |
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52
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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53
forgery
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| n.伪造的文件等，赝品，伪造（行为） | |
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54
apprehended
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| 逮捕，拘押( apprehend的过去式和过去分词 )； 理解 | |
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magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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deposition
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| n.免职，罢官；作证；沉淀；沉淀物 | |
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57
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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lethal
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| adj.致死的；毁灭性的 | |
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testament
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| n.遗嘱；证明 | |
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interspersing
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| v.散布，散置( intersperse的现在分词 )；点缀 | |
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groans
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| n.呻吟，叹息( groan的名词复数 )；呻吟般的声音v.呻吟( groan的第三人称单数 )；发牢骚；抱怨；受苦 | |
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63
rattles
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| （使）发出格格的响声， （使）作嘎嘎声( rattle的第三人称单数 )； 喋喋不休地说话； 迅速而嘎嘎作响地移动，堕下或走动； 使紧张，使恐惧 | |
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recurred
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| 再发生，复发( recur的过去式和过去分词 )； 治愈 | |
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precarious
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| adj.不安定的，靠不住的；根据不足的 | |
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assented
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| 同意，赞成( assent的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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spout
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| v.喷出，涌出；滔滔不绝地讲；n.喷管；水柱 | |
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mustered
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的过去式和过去分词 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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hemmed
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| 缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 )； 包围 | |
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stimulate
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| vt.刺激，使兴奋；激励，使…振奋 | |
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torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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72
implicated
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| adj.密切关联的；牵涉其中的 | |
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73
seaman
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| n.海员，水手，水兵 | |
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ostensible
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| adj.(指理由)表面的，假装的 | |
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prohibition
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| n.禁止；禁令，禁律 | |
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habitual
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| adj.习惯性的；通常的，惯常的 | |
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seamen
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| n.海员 | |
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depositions
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| 沉积（物）( deposition的名词复数 )； （在法庭上的）宣誓作证； 处置； 罢免 | |
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maple
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| n.槭树，枫树，槭木 | |
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varnished
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| 浸渍过的，涂漆的 | |
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gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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gales
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| 龙猫 | |
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stewardess
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| n.空中小姐，女乘务员 | |
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jaw
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| n.颚，颌，说教，流言蜚语；v.喋喋不休，教训 | |
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testimony
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| n.证词；见证，证明 | |
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elucidating
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| v.阐明，解释( elucidate的现在分词 ) | |
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inculpate
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| v.使负罪；控告；使连累 | |
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corks
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| n.脐梅衣；软木( cork的名词复数 )；软木塞 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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intensity
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| n.强烈，剧烈；强度；烈度 | |
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93
broiled
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| a.烤过的 | |
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stewed
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| adj.焦虑不安的，烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 )；煨；思考；担忧 | |
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oysters
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| 牡蛎( oyster的名词复数 ) | |
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96
tart
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| adj.酸的；尖酸的，刻薄的；n.果馅饼；淫妇 | |
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97
figs
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| figures 数字，图形，外形 | |
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98
pigsty
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| n.猪圈，脏房间 | |
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99
copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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100
entrap
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| v.以网或陷阱捕捉，使陷入圈套 | |
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101
license
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| n.执照，许可证，特许；v.许可，特许 | |
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102
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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103
prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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104
smacking
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| 活泼的，发出响声的，精力充沛的 | |
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105
immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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106
vigor
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| n.活力，精力，元气 | |
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107
outrageously
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| 凶残地； 肆无忌惮地； 令人不能容忍地； 不寻常地 | |
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108
parasitical
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| adj. 寄生的(符加的) | |
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109
melodious
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| adj.旋律美妙的，调子优美的，音乐性的 | |
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110
hymn
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| n.赞美诗，圣歌，颂歌 | |
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111
wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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112
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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113
corpses
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| n.死尸，尸体( corpse的名词复数 ) | |
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114
virgins
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| 处女，童男( virgin的名词复数 )； 童贞玛利亚（耶稣之母） | |
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115
boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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116
extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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117
sedulously
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| ad.孜孜不倦地 | |
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118
humbug
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| n.花招，谎话，欺骗 | |
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119
middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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120
delicacy
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| n.精致，细微，微妙，精良；美味，佳肴 | |
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121
deteriorated
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| 恶化，变坏( deteriorate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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122
intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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123
decency
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| n.体面，得体，合宜，正派，庄重 | |
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124
reverenced
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| v.尊敬，崇敬( reverence的过去式和过去分词 )；敬礼 | |
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125
auspicious
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| adj.吉利的；幸运的，吉兆的 | |
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126
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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127
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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128
augury
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| n.预言，征兆，占卦 | |
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129
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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130
torpid
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| adj.麻痹的，麻木的，迟钝的 | |
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131
uprooted
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| v.把（某物）连根拔起( uproot的过去式和过去分词 )；根除；赶走；把…赶出家园 | |
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132
wilted
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| （使）凋谢，枯萎( wilt的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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133
drooping
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| adj. 下垂的，无力的 动词droop的现在分词 | |
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134
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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135
terrapin
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| n.泥龟；鳖 | |
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136
champagne
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| n.香槟酒；微黄色 | |
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137
disciples
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| n.信徒( disciple的名词复数 )；门徒；耶稣的信徒；（尤指）耶稣十二门徒之一 | |
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138
expounded
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| 论述，详细讲解( expound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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139
scriptures
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| 经文，圣典( scripture的名词复数 )； 经典 | |
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140
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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141
doctrine
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| n.教义；主义；学说 | |
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142
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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143
foretold
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| v.预言，预示( foretell的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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144
shipwright
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| n.造船工人 | |
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145
adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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146
confiding
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| adj.相信人的，易于相信的v.吐露（秘密，心事等）( confide的现在分词 )；（向某人）吐露（隐私、秘密等） | |
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147
hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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148
narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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149
apprehensions
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| 疑惧 | |
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150
apprehension
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| n.理解，领悟；逮捕，拘捕；忧虑 | |
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151
collapse
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| vi.累倒；昏倒；倒塌；塌陷 | |
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152
rumor
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| n.谣言，谣传，传说 | |
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153
ministry
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| n.(政府的)部；牧师 | |
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154
consanguinity
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| n.血缘；亲族 | |
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155
imps
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| n.（故事中的）小恶魔( imp的名词复数 )；小魔鬼；小淘气；顽童 | |
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156
memoir
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| n.[pl.]回忆录，自传；记事录 | |
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157
repulsive
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| adj.排斥的，使人反感的 | |
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158
wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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159
scurvy
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| adj.下流的，卑鄙的，无礼的；n.坏血病 | |
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160
undesirable
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| adj.不受欢迎的，不良的，不合意的，讨厌的；n.不受欢迎的人，不良分子 | |
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161
repelled
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| v.击退( repel的过去式和过去分词 )；使厌恶；排斥；推开 | |
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162
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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163
unreasonable
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| adj.不讲道理的，不合情理的，过度的 | |
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164
withering
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| 使人畏缩的，使人害羞的，使人难堪的 | |
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165
joyfully
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| adv. 喜悦地, 高兴地 | |
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166
profane
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| adj.亵神的，亵渎的；vt.亵渎，玷污 | |
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167
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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168
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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169
shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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170
heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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171
ordnance
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| n.大炮，军械 | |
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172
courteously
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| adv.有礼貌地，亲切地 | |
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173
cylinder
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| n.圆筒，柱(面)，汽缸 | |
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174
woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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175
machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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176
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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177
fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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178
wriggling
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| v.扭动，蠕动，蜿蜒行进( wriggle的现在分词 )；（使身体某一部位）扭动；耍滑不做，逃避（应做的事等）；蠕蠕 | |
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179
accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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180
contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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181
brute
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| n.野兽，兽性 | |
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182
wielded
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| 手持着使用（武器、工具等）( wield的过去式和过去分词 )； 具有； 运用（权力）； 施加（影响） | |
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183
smiting
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| v.猛打，重击，打击( smite的现在分词 ) | |
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184
stoutly
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| adv.牢固地，粗壮的 | |
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185
intensify
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| vt.加强；变强；加剧 | |
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186
oozes
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| v.（浓液等）慢慢地冒出，渗出( ooze的第三人称单数 )；使（液体）缓缓流出；（浓液）渗出，慢慢流出 | |
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187
wig
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| n.假发 | |
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188
precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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189
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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190
comely
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| adj.漂亮的，合宜的 | |
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191
erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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192
uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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193
vindicates
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| n.澄清（某人/某事物）受到的责难或嫌疑( vindicate的名词复数 )；表明或证明（所争辩的事物）属实、正当、有效等；维护v.澄清（某人/某事物）受到的责难或嫌疑( vindicate的第三人称单数 )；表明或证明（所争辩的事物）属实、正当、有效等；维护 | |
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194
dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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195
innate
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| adj.天生的，固有的，天赋的 | |
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196
tact
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| n.机敏，圆滑，得体 | |
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197
brawling
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| n.争吵，喧嚷 | |
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198
boisterous
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| adj.喧闹的，欢闹的 | |
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199
amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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