The cathedral service is very long; and though the choral part of it is pleasant enough, I thought it not best to wait for the sermon, especially as it would have been quite unintelligible21, so remotely as I sat in the great space. So I left my seat, and after strolling up and down the aisle20 a few times, sallied forth22 into the churchyard. On the cathedral door there is a curious old knocker, in the form of a monstrous23 face, which was placed there, centuries ago, for the benefit of fugitives24 from justice, who used to be entitled to sanctuary25 here. The exterior26 of the cathedral, being huge, is therefore grand; it has a great central tower, and two at the western end; and reposes27 in vast and heavy length, without the multitude of niches28, and crumbling29 statues, and richness of detail, that make the towers and fronts of some cathedrals so endlessly interesting. One piece of sculpture I remember,—a carving18 of a cow, a milk-maid, and a monk30, in reference to the legend that the site of the cathedral was, in some way, determined31 by a woman bidding her cow go home to Dunholme. Cadmus was guided to the site of his destined32 city in some such way as this.
It was a very beautiful day, and though the shadow of the cathedral fell on this side, yet, it being about noontide, it did not cover the churchyard entirely33, but left many of the graves in sunshine. There were not a great many monuments, and these were chiefly horizontal slabs34, some of which looked aged36, but on closer inspection37 proved to be mostly of the present century. I observed an old stone figure, however, half worn away, which seemed to have something like a bishop's mitre on its head, and may perhaps have lain in the proudest chapel38 of the cathedral before occupying its present bed among the grass. About fifteen paces from the central tower, and within its shadow, I found a weather-worn slab35 of marble, seven or eight feet long, the inscription39 on which interested me somewhat. It was to the memory of Robert Dodsley, the bookseller, Johnson's acquaintance, who, as his tombstone rather superciliously40 avers41, had made a much better figure as an author than "could have been expected in his rank of life." But, after all, it is inevitable42 that a man's tombstone should look down on him, or, at all events, comport43 itself towards him "de haut en bas." I love to find the graves of men connected with literature. They interest me more, even though of no great eminence44, than those of persons far more illustrious in other walks of life. I know not whether this is because I happen to be one of the literary kindred, or because all men feel themselves akin45, and on terms of intimacy46, with those whom they know, or might have known, in books. I rather believe that the latter is the case.
My wife had stayed in the cathedral, but she came out at the end of the sermon, and told me of two little birds, who had got into the vast interior, and were in great trouble at not being able to find their way out again. Thus, two winged souls may often have been imprisoned47 within a faith of heavy ceremonials.
We went round the edifice, and, passing into the close, penetrated48 through an arched passage into the crypt, which, methought, was in a better style of architecture than the nave and choir. At one end stood a crowd of venerable figures leaning against the wall, being stone images of bearded saints, apostles, patriarchs, kings,—personages of great dignity, at all events, who had doubtless occupied conspicuous49 niches in and about the cathedral till finally imprisoned in this cellar. I looked at every one, and found not an entire nose among them, nor quite so many heads as they once had.
Thence we went into the cloisters50, which are entire, but not particularly interesting. Indeed, this cathedral has not taken hold of my affections, except in one aspect, when it was exceedingly grand and beautiful.
After looking at the crypt and the cloisters, we returned through the close and the churchyard, and went back to the hotel through a path by the river-side. This is the same dim and dusky path through which I wandered the night before, and in the sunshine it looked quite as beautiful as I knew it must,— a shadow of elm-trees clothing the high bank, and overarching the paths above and below; some of the elms growing close to the water-side, and flinging up their topmost boughs51 not nearly so high as where we stood, and others climbing upward and upward, till our way wound among their roots; while through the foliage52 the quiet river loitered along, with this lovely shade on both its banks, to pass through the centre of the town. The stately cathedral rose high above us, and farther onward53, in a line with it, the battlemented walls of the old Norman castle, gray and warlike, though now it has become a University. This delightful54 walk terminates at an old bridge in the heart of the town; and the castle hangs immediately over its busiest street. On this bridge, last night, in the embrasure, or just over the pier55, where there is a stone seat, I saw some old men seated, smoking their pipes and chatting. In my judgment56, a river flowing through the centre of a town, and not too broad to make itself familiar, nor too swift, but idling along, as if it loved better to stay there than to go, is the pleasantest imaginable piece of scenery; so transient as it is, and yet enduring,—just the same from life's end to life's end; and this river Wear, with its sylvan57 wildness, and yet so sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers,—not that it is so very small, but with a bosom58 broad enough to be crossed by a three-arched bridge. Just above the cathedral there is a mill upon its shore, as ancient as the times of the Abbey.
We went homeward through the market-place and one or two narrow streets; for the town has the irregularity of all ancient settlements, and, moreover, undulates upward and downward, and is also made more unintelligible to a stranger, in its points and bearings, by the tortuous59 course of the river.
After dinner J——- and I walked along the bank opposite to that on which the cathedral stands, and found the paths there equally delightful with those which I have attempted to describe. We went onward while the river gleamed through the foliage beneath us, and passed so far beyond the cathedral that we began to think we were getting into the country, and that it was time to return; when all at once we saw a bridge before us, and beyond that, on the opposite bank of the Wear, the cathedral itself! The stream had made a circuit without our knowing it. We paused upon the bridge, and admired and wondered at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast, ancient towers rising out of the green shade, and looking as if they were based upon it. The situation of Durham Cathedral is certainly a noble one, finer even than that of Lincoln, though the latter stands even at a more lordly height above the town. But as I saw it then, it was grand, venerable, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw so lovely and magnificent a scene, nor, being content with this, do I care to see a better. The castle beyond came also into the view, and the whole picture was mirrored in the tranquil60 stream below. And so, crossing the bridge, the path led us back through many a bower61 of hollow shade; and we then quitted the hotel, and took the rail for
YORK,
where we arrived at about half past nine. We put up at the Black Swan, with which we had already made acquaintance at our previous visit to York. It is a very ancient hotel; for in the coffee-room I saw on the wall an old printed advertisement, announcing that a stage-coach would leave the Black Swan in London, and arrive at the Black Swan in York, with God's permission, in four days. The date was 1706; and still, after a hundred and fifty years, the Black Swan receives travellers in Coney Street. It is a very good hotel, and was much thronged62 with guests when we arrived, as the Sessions come on this week. We found a very smart waiter, whose English faculties63 have been brightened by a residence of several years in America.
In the morning, before breakfast, I strolled out, and walked round the cathedral, passing on my way the sheriff's javelin-men, in long gowns of faded purple embroidered64 with gold, carrying halberds in their hands; also a gentleman in a cocked hat, gold-lace, and breeches, who, no doubt, had something to do with the ceremonial of the Sessions. I saw, too, a procession of a good many old cabs and other carriages, filled with people, and a banner flaunting65 above each vehicle. These were the piano-forte makers66 of York, who were going out of town to have a jollification together.
After breakfast we all went to the cathedral, and no sooner were we within it than we found how much our eyes had recently been educated, by our greater power of appreciating this magnificent interior; for it impressed us both with a joy that we never felt before. J——- felt it too, and insisted that the cathedral must have been altered and improved since we were last here. But it is only that we have seen much splendid architecture since then, and so have grown in some degree fitted to enjoy it. York Cathedral (I say it now, for it is my present feeling) is the most wonderful work that ever came from the hands of man. Indeed, it seems like "a house not made with hands," but rather to have come down from above, bringing an awful majesty67 and sweetness with it and it is so light and aspiring68, with all its vast columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly wonder if it should ascend11 back to heaven again by its mere69 spirituality. Positively70 the pillars and arches of the choir are so very beautiful that they give the impression of being exquisitely71 polished, though such is not the fact; but their beauty throws a gleam around them. I thank God that I saw this cathedral again, and I thank him that he inspired the builder to make it, and that mankind has so long enjoyed it, and will continue to enjoy it.
July 14th.—We left York at twelve o'clock, and were delayed an hour or two at Leeds, waiting for a train. I strolled up into the town, and saw a fair, with puppet-shows, booths of penny actors, merry-go-rounds, clowns, boxers72, and other such things as I saw, above a year ago, at Greenwich fair, and likewise at Tranmere, during the Whitsuntide holidays.
We resumed our journey, and reached Southport in pretty good trim at about nine o'clock. It has been a very interesting tour. We find Southport just as we left it, with its regular streets of little and big lodging-houses, where the visitors perambulate to and fro without any imaginable object. The tide, too, seems not to have been up over the waste of sands since we went away; and far seaward stands the same row of bathing-machines, and just on the verge73 of the horizon a gleam of water, —even this being not the sea, but the mouth of the river Ribble, seeking the sea amid the sandy desert. But we shall soon say good-by to Southport.
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1
choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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vista
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| n.远景，深景，展望，回想 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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aspire
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| vi.(to，after)渴望，追求，有志于 | |
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ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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10
groove
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| n.沟，槽；凹线，（刻出的）线条，习惯 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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fluted
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| a.有凹槽的 | |
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wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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chevrons
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| n.（警察或士兵所佩带以示衔级的）∧形或∨形标志( chevron的名词复数 ) | |
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16
zigzag
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| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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17
carvings
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| n.雕刻( carving的名词复数 )；雕刻术；雕刻品；雕刻物 | |
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18
carving
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| n.雕刻品，雕花 | |
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19
aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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unintelligible
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| adj.无法了解的，难解的，莫明其妙的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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monstrous
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| adj.巨大的；恐怖的；可耻的，丢脸的 | |
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fugitives
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| n.亡命者，逃命者( fugitive的名词复数 ) | |
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sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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reposes
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的第三人称单数 ) | |
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niches
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| 壁龛( niche的名词复数 )； 合适的位置[工作等]； （产品的）商机； 生态位（一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位） | |
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crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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slabs
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| n.厚板，平板，厚片( slab的名词复数 )；厚胶片 | |
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slab
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| n.平板，厚的切片；v.切成厚板，以平板盖上 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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superciliously
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| adv.高傲地；傲慢地 | |
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avers
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| v.断言( aver的第三人称单数 )；证实；证明…属实；作为事实提出 | |
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42
inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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comport
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| vi.相称，适合 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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akin
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| adj.同族的，类似的 | |
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intimacy
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| n.熟悉，亲密，密切关系，亲昵的言行 | |
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47
imprisoned
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| 下狱，监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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48
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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49
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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50
cloisters
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| n.（学院、修道院、教堂等建筑的）走廊( cloister的名词复数 )；回廊；修道院的生活；隐居v.隐退，使与世隔绝( cloister的第三人称单数 ) | |
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51
boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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52
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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53
onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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54
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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55
pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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56
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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sylvan
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| adj.森林的 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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faculties
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| n.能力( faculty的名词复数 )；全体教职员；技巧；院 | |
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embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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flaunting
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| adj.招摇的，扬扬得意的，夸耀的v.炫耀，夸耀( flaunt的现在分词 )；有什么能耐就施展出来 | |
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makers
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| n.制造者，制造商（maker的复数形式） | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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aspiring
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| adj.有志气的；有抱负的；高耸的v.渴望；追求 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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boxers
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| n.拳击短裤；（尤指职业）拳击手( boxer的名词复数 )；拳师狗 | |
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verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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